LIETUVIŲ KALBOTYROS KLAUSIMAI XXXVII (1997)

Danutė SABALIAUSKAITĖ – LIUTKEVIČIENĖ

LITHUANIAN NAMES FOR THE JACKET

A jacket is “a part of a suit covering the torso, with fronts that fasten together.” In Lithuania, as in the Baltic region more generally, it became part of the national costume relatively recently. Women began wearing short jackets in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when waistcoats began to go out of fashion. From outer garments, they became more like undergarments, and short jackets took over their functions. They spread throughout Lithuania (Mastonytė 1961: 173; Kulikauskienė 1990: 263).

The jacket became part of men’s attire around the middle of the 19th century (somewhat later in certain parts of Lithuania). Until then, the most popular garment for this purpose was the sermėga (At Pr 109). It is sometimes quite difficult to distinguish the functions of jacket-type garments from those of sermėga- or coat-type garments: in summer, after all, a jacket becomes an outer garment, whereas in autumn or winter warmer clothes are worn over it, and it is then merely an “indoor” garment. Moreover, at first, jackets also resembled sermėgas or coats in their cut: they were often long and made from the same material as outer garments.

This confusion of functions is also reflected in the names. In many cases, names for jackets were transferred from outer garments, e.g. sermegėlė, trinyčiai. Consequently, quite a few words of this type have several meanings; cf. binžokas “short jacket; fur coat covered with milu”; paletõnas “jacket; coat”; žipõnas “jacket; short coat.” The same is true not only in Lithuanian; cf. Estonian pihtsärk, Latvian svārki, French paletot, which have both meanings.

At the end of the 19th century, the European suit began to spread. Jackets of a somewhat different type then appeared, reaching the countryside from the towns. They came in a great variety of styles and served various purposes, and most often arrived in Lithuania with their own names. This is why there are so many loanwords in this lexical-semantic subgroup.

The main name today is the standard-language word švarkas. It is stylistically and semantically neutral. The form švarkà occurs in the dialects of Vilnius and Utena (LKŽ XV 452). Samogitians also use the form šàrkas “same,” and šàrkai, šarkai “sermėga; clothing; cassock” (LKŽ XIV 517). The form šàrfus is recorded in several dictionaries (N; KŽ; LKŽ XIV 519). In K. Būga’s view, the earlier forms lack -v-. Forms with -v- may have arisen under the influence of the word švarùs, cf. švarùs šàrkas (Būga II 314). Such variants with and without -v- are fairly common in Lithuanian dialects, cf. svogūnas / sogūnas, kvõtas “executioner” / kõtas, kuvõlas / kuõlas, etc. The word švarkas, like its Latvian equivalent svārks “same,” is connected with Church Slavonic спака “shirt; garment,” Russian сорочка, Belarusian.

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sorocka “same.” It is quite possible that this is an indigenous word shared by the Baltic and Slavic languages. Some linguists connect it with the Indo-European root *serk- “weaving.” The connection would be: weaving > textile-making > garment (Karulis II 331). Other linguists believe that the name may have entered the Baltic and Slavic languages from Medieval Latin; cf. Latin serica: sarica “silk” (Būga II 314; Fraenkel 1955–1965: 964, 1039; ME III 1144). However, this hypothesis seems to be contradicted by the rather clear mismatch in meaning: the Baltic and Slavic word has nothing to do with silk (Fasmer III 724–5).

In Lithuanian written language, the form šafkai first appears in the 17th century in the meaning ‘sermėga’ (C I 812). The word is recorded in the meanings ‘cassock’ and ‘dust cloak’ in the early 18th century in the so-called Krauzė dictionary (Q 110, 413). The form švarkas is mentioned in 19th-century writings (Mit I 235; J). It must, of course, have existed considerably earlier; Latvian svārki is already found in 17th-century Latvian dictionaries (Laumane 1986: 151).

Other names in this lexical-semantic subgroup are less common and are used in particular dialects or written sources. There are both indigenous words and loanwords.

NAMES OF LITHUANIAN ORIGIN

All of them are already connoted, semantically or stylistically. The following names are semantically connoted:

apsiaūstas “men’s jacket”: apsiaūsti. It is used with this meaning in the vicinity of Eržvilkas (Kulikauskienė 1970: 144). Its usual meaning is “a light summer coat made of thin material; a garment worn draped around oneself.”

lietsvarkis “rain jacket”: lietūs + švarkas. It occurs in written language of the 20th century (Šlč; J.Balt; LKŽ VII 447).

palaidinis, pālaidinis “jacket, short jacket”: palaidas. Used by the Western Aukštaitians of Kaunas (LKŽ IX 227). In standard language it has a somewhat different meaning—“a long, loose gown worn by doctors, shop assistants, etc.” (DŽ₃ 486).

pūšsvar kis “short jacket”: pūse + švarkas. A word of the standard language (DŽ₃ 635; LKŽ X 1067).

A name of this formation also occurs in Latvian, cf. Latv. pussvārks, pussvārcis “a kind of jacket; half-breeches” (EH II 335; At Pr 335).

šarkinikė “little jacket”: šārkas. A rare word (Kin; LKŽ XVI 518).

šimt akloštis, šimt akloštė “a pleated woman’s garment (e.g., a skirt or little jacket)”: šimt akloštis, -ė “having many pleats” < šimtas + klōstė. It occurs in written language of the 20th century (S.Čiurl; Ndž; LKŽ XIV 815). A more common dialectal hybrid is šimt akvoldis.

trinyčiai, trinyčia, trinỹtis “a jacket made of coarse linen”: trinỹtis “a herringbone-woven fabric,” trinỹtas, -a “herringbone-woven” < trỹs + nỹtys. It should be noted that the primary meaning of this word is “a coat of thick white linen (usually unlined), worn over outer garments to protect against dust or damp; a shepherd’s garment made of tow.” The word is used with the meaning ‘fabric’ (in the singular form) in both Lithuanian and Latvian, cf. Lithuanian trinỹtis “herringbone-woven fabric—

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‘cloth’, Latvian trinitis ‘checked fabric’, Latvian trinitė ‘such fabric’. Lithuanian trinytis, as can be inferred from the name, is woven over three heddles, while Latvian trinītis may be woven over four as well (ME IV 237; Reķēna 1975: 391). Something similar happened with Lithuanian trinyčiai. ‘Trinyčiai were sewn from thick, unbleached, four-heddle-woven tow, hemp, and, less often, linen fabric’ (LEB 373).

This is an old word, attested (in the sense of ‘cloak’, later also ‘jacket’) in Lithuanian written monuments from the late 16th century (BB 1 Moz 3,21; BB Ez 26,16; BP II 104, 194; B 5; Q 202; K.Donel; R I 98; MŽ I 186; N; KB II 72; K I 307).

It is used in the sense ‘jacket’ in Suvalkija, occurs in some other parts of Lithuania, and was known in Lithuania Minor (Kulikau­skienė 1990: 256; LKŽ XVI 848, 853). In the sense ‘cloak’, it was used until the beginning of the 20th century in almost all of Lithuania, less often in Samogitia (LKŽ XVI 848, 853; Kulikauskienė 1990: 255; Kulikauskienė 1970: 144; At Pr 128). In some places, the word could also mean a fur coat, a shirt, or clothing in general. The item itself has now disappeared, and so the name is rarely used in the living language.

The word was borrowed from Lithuanian into some Slavic languages; compare Belarusian трыніца ‘a light cloak resembling a blouse, worn by peasants over a coat or fur coat in wet weather’, трыніты „трынічай“, трынітны ‘made from trinyčiai fabric, trinyčiai (of garments)’, Polish dialectal trynica ‘thick homespun fabric; a cloak made of thick fabric, worn by peasants over other outer garments’, trynitny ‘made of thick homespun fabric’, trynit ‘such fabric (trinytis)’, tr(z)ynitny ‘rubbed (of hempen or coarse linen fabric)’. Some of these Lithuanian loanwords are attested in Slavic languages as early as the 17th century (Urbutis 1969: 154–5; Grinaveckienė 1995: 491; Zinkevičius I 265, II 129, III 119, 126; Laučiūtė 1982: 50).

trumpikė, trumpė ‘short women’s jacket’: trumpas ‘short’. Used around Eržvilkas (Kulikau­skienė 1970: 146, LKŽ XVI 1022, 1024). It may also mean a short women’s blouse and (in the form trumpikės) short trousers.

Stylistically marked names usually refer to some poor-quality, worn, or ragged jacket. These words may also carry an additional semantic feature.

bizdė derogatory ‘short jacket’. It is probably related to other words with this root; compare bizdė ‘farting woman; girl’, bizdas ‘buttocks’, bizdailis ‘one who runs about barefoot, half-naked, without trousers’, bizdelioti derogatory ‘to run around quickly for no reason’, and others. Rare word (Krt; LKŽ I, 862).

pliurponas ‘a certain kind of women’s jacket’. Related to other words with this root; compare pliurpuoti ‘to walk dressed strangely, unusually; to dress badly, unattractively’, pliurpa ‘a disheveled, slovenly person; someone whose behavior is frivolous; a fool’. Compare also: Dressed up like a pliurpa, she goes about in a pliurponas (Jrb); Dressed up in a pliurponas, she goes about like a pliurpa, that is, walks (J). The name is found in some dictionaries (LKŽ X 274).

šikelis ‘a short men’s garment, jacket’. It is probably related to šikė ‘buttocks’. Compare A paletot reaches down past the buttocks (J) and Šikelis is sewn to the navel, that is, it is a men’s garment (J). Rare name (LKŽ XIV 757).

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šikšarkis “a short men’s or women’s jacket,” cf. šikti + šarkas. Occurs in some Samogitian dialects (LKŽ XIV 764).

šliurpis, šliurpōkas “a worn-out jacket or coat.” The origin is not entirely clear. Perhaps the name arose from šliūrpa “lapel, flap.” It may also be related to other words with the root šliur- that have a negative connotation, cf. šliūrpa “a fool, a slovenly person,” šliurpsėti “to squelch” (e.g., squelching footwear), šliurnōti “to walk about poorly and untidily dressed, to shuffle,” šliūrna “a slovenly person,” šliūrti “to become dirty, unclean.” A rare name (Tl; LKŽ XV 6,7).

švarkiūkštis “a poor-quality jacket”: švākas (LKŽ XV 453).

švārkpal aikis “a poor-quality, ragged jacket”: švākas + pal aikis (LKŽ XV 453).

SLAVIC LOANWORDS

POLONISMS

gunčia, gunčėlė “men’s jacket,” cf. Polish gunia, guńka, gunieczka “a warm outer garment made of coarse material” (LKA I 145).

Švarko reikšmė labai retas (Kulik auskienė 1971: 167, 168). Dažniau šio žodžio variantai vartojami kitomis reikšmėmis: gūnià „apsiaustas nuo lietaus, pintas iš šiaudų, nešiojamas piem enukų, naktigonių“, gūnčė „milinis kelionės apsiaustas“, gūnčiai „ilgi aptraukti kailiniai“.

The name is found in many Slavic languages, cf. Belarusian гун я “a cloth for covering a wagon seat or a horse; a large warm shawl,” Russian гун я “a poor garment,” Ukrainian гун я “a coarse woollen coat,” Bulgarian гуня “a coat made of goat’s wool,” etc. The word’s further etymology is unclear, and various hypotheses have been proposed; cf. Latin gunna “fur garment,” Welsh gwn “dress,” Avestan gaōna- “hair, color,” New Persian gūn “color” (Trubačev 7, 175–177; Fasmer I 475; EŠBM III 114; Sławski I 378). The word began to be used in Polish in the 15th–16th centuries (Borejszo 141). It reached Lithuanian fairly quickly: the item itself is already mentioned in 16th-century Lithuanian inventories (LI 551[23]), while the word gūnià appears in the written language of the 17th century, where it means a cloth for covering a wagon seat or a horse (SD (1) 40, 57). The latter meaning, as well as “a straw covering placed over a window or door in winter to keep out the cold,” is much more common than the meanings referring to clothing.

jūpkis, jupkėlė “jacket, women’s jacket,” cf. Polish jupka < jupa “an old-fashioned women’s garment, a jacket.” The name entered the Slavic languages from German, cf. German Joppe, Juppe “jacket, vest.” Around 1200, the Germans borrowed this garment name from Old Italian, cf. Italian giuppa “jacket; undergarment,” which had received it from Arabic, cf. Arabic gubba “a long-sleeved outer garment; a cotton undergarment” (Brückner 1927: 209; Sławski I 591; Fasmer IV 525; Kluge 1957: 333; Pfeifer 1993: 599–600).

Occurs in the Šiauliai dialect (LKŽ IV 430). Also cf. other clothing names of this root, borrowed through Slavic languages, cf. jupà “a type of outer garment; dress,” jūpikas, jūpik is “skirt,” and through German, cf. jöpe, jöpke, jöpa

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“a short women’s jacket; waistcoat,” jūopa “a short jacket; blouse.” Also derived from the same source and borrowed via the Slavs are šūba “a long fur-lined coat” and žiponas “jacket; half-coat.”

Latv. jupkins, jupks “women’s jacket” is of German origin (EH I 567). kaptanikas “jacket,” cf. Polish kaftanik “blouse.” Polish kaftanik appeared in the 16th century, from kaftan “a type of outer garment” (Borejszo 1990: 145). The name is also widespread in other Slavic languages, cf. Bel. кафтан, каптан, Russ. кафтан, Ukr. кафтан, каптан, Czech kaftan, etc. This is a fairly old borrowing (attested in Polish in the 15th century and in Belarusian in the 16th century). It entered the Slavic languages via Turkish, cf. Turk. kaftan “a type of long, light garment,” from Persian, cf. Pers. qaftān “a type of garment.” It may also have entered some Western European languages via Arabic, cf. Arab. qaftān (Sławski II 20; Borejszo 1990: 145; ESBM IV 314; Fasmer II 212; Machek 1968: 235; Dauzat 1954: 126; Kluge 1957: 338; Pfeifer 1993: 607–8; Klein 1966–1967: 81; Webster 1976: 155).

Lith. kaptanikas is a rare name, occurring in southern Lithuania (LKŽ V 252). Much more common is kaptōnas “padded jacket, short coat; homespun coat, overcoat; winter jacket.” This garment is mentioned in 16th-century Lithuanian inventories (LI 251[43]). It was first recorded in written sources around 1620 (SD (1)50). It is used by southern Aukštaitians, but also occurs in other Lithuanian dialects (DrskŽ 138; Kulikauskienė 1990: 256; LzŽ 107; Stravinskienė 1968: 157; LKŽ V 253; At Pr 51 map).

The borrowing is also found in Latvian, cf. Latv. kaftāns “a long traditional jacket” (LLVV IV 81).

kuzijākas, kuzijōkas, kuziokas, kuzjakė “a short jacket or coat,” cf. Polish kozyjaka, kazyjaka, kazyaka “a men’s outer garment resembling a waistcoat.” It became widespread in Polish in the 16th century. It is unclear through which language it entered Polish, cf. Medieval Latin casaca “a type of garment,” French casaque “coat, jacket,” Italian casacca “coat, frock coat,” Spanish casaca “jacket,” Middle High German kasugele, kasuckel “chasuble” (from the Romance languages) (Sławski III 26–7, 36; Borejszo 1990: 147–8, 153).

Some linguists believe that this name may have entered Lithuanian from German, cf. Lith. kūzas (< German dialect kus “poor-quality garment,” East Prussian German kuz “short, small”) and Lith. jākas (< German Jacke “short jacket, jacket”), cf. also German dialect koz jacke “traveling cloak” (Alminauskis I 77; Janavičienė 1992: 83).

The name occurs in the writings of D. Poška and in 19th-century dictionaries (N; K; K II 336; J). It is used by western and northern Samogitians from the Kretinga area, and occurs in the Varniškiai subdialects of southern Samogitian (LKŽ VI 1017, 1018). It can also mean ‘waistcoat’ or ‘blouse.’

pancėrius „švarkas“, plg. lenk. pancerz „šarvas“ (Skardžius 1931: 155). Į lenkų kalbą žodis atėjo iš vokiečių kalbos, plg. vid.vok.a panzi(e)r, vok. Pancer „t.p.“, galėjo tarpininkauti čekų kalba, plg. s. ček. pancier, pancir „t.p.“ (Brückner

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1927: 393; Borejszo 1990: 166).

The word is rare in the sense ‘jacket’ (Dr; LKŽ IX 328). In Lithuanian, however, it means ‘armor’ and is already found in 16th–18th-century writings (DP 553; ChB 304; Q 379).

spancerka, spancierka “jacket,” cf. Polish spencer, spencerka “jacket” (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 859; LKŽ IX 327, 328, XIII 317). The name is also found in Russian, cf. Russ. спенцер “a type of jacket.” It entered the Slavic languages from English, German, or French, cf. English spencer, German Spencer, French spencer “a type of short coat or jacket.” The name derives from the surname of the English politician Lord George John Spencerio (Spencer, 1758–1834), who liked to wear this garment. The name became widespread in the languages mentioned in the late 18th to mid-19th century (Fasmer III 733; Brückner 1927: 508; Webster 1976: 1118; Klein 1966–1967: 1485; Kluge 1957: 724; Dauzat 1954: 680).

In Lithuanian, it is used in the sense ‘jacket’ fairly rarely, occurring in the southern Aukštaitian dialect. More often it means ‘waistcoat.’

Latvians also have this name, cf. Latv. spenceris “waistcoat; jacket.” It entered Latvian from German (Sehwers 1953: 115, 207, 232; ME III 989; EH II 549).

šaračkinė, šaračkinukas (hybrid) “a little šaračkinis jacket,” cf. Lith. šaračkinis, -ė “made from šaračka,” šaračka “poor-quality hempen cloth for trousers and jackets, striped cloth,” from Polish szaraczek “a type of broadcloth; a poor-quality dress made from that material.”

It occurs in 20th-century Lithuanian written language (V.Krev; NdŽ; LKŽ XIV 513).

BELARUSIANISMS

kulikas “a short autumn jacket, a little jacket.” Its origin is not entirely clear, but it was most likely borrowed from Belarusian; compare Belarusian кулёк “a jacket made of homespun fabric” (SBG II 564). It occurs in the northern part of the Vilnius dialect area (LKŽ VI 831). Compare also Latvian kuļiks, kuļka “men’s jacket” and Old Prussian kuļiks “small pouch, bag.” Lithuanian also has kulinė “mitt (formerly, fur mitten).”

sermegà “jacket”; compare Old Belarusian сермяга “a peasant’s outer garment made of coarse cloth” (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 777; Skardžius 1931: 196; LKA I 145). The name is also widespread in some other Slavic languages; compare Polish siermięga, Russian сермяга, and Ukrainian сермяга, “the same.” The word is of uncertain origin. Some linguists attempt to connect it with Lithuanian širmas, others with Medieval Latin scaramangum or Greek σκαραμαγιον “a garment of this kind”; other hypotheses have also been proposed (Fasmer III 609; Borejszo 1990: 178).

It is used with the meaning “jacket” in Samogitian dialects (LKŽ XII 431–2). However, much more often the word denotes a particular kind of woollen outer garment, a woollen coat. The name is recorded with this meaning in Lithuanian writings from the 16th century (BB 1 Moz 3,21; BB Ez 26,16; BP II 194; SD(3) 402; Lex 71a; K.Donel; H; R 235, 241; MŽ; N; J).

šimtakyöldis, šimtaköldė, šimtaka dė (hybrid) “a pleated women’s garment, usually a skirt or little jacket, with a hundred pleats.” A rare word, occurring in 20th-century writings

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of the language (LKŽ XIV 815).

šúšpōnas „pušsvarkis“, plg. s. brus. жупань „švarkas; puspaltis“ (Grinaveckienė 1993: 176). Fonetiniai pakitimai galėjo atsirasti jau lietuvių kalbos dirvoje, plg. seksmė < sekmė (Zinkevičius 1966: 196). Lietuvių kalboje šia reikšme retas. Dažnesnis yra šūšpōnis „drobinis apsiaustas, paprastai velkamas ant kailinių“. Dar žr. žipōnas.

RUSSICISMS

čepānas “a zipun.” This word is of rather uncertain origin. It may have come through Russian; compare colloquial Russian чапан, чепан “a kind of peasant outer garment” (Dal’ IV 582, 589). The word entered Russian from Turkic languages (Fasmer IV 315). It is true that this name is used in eastern Russian dialects. Another possibility is that the name should be connected with Russian чапан, Belarusian жупан, and Polish żupan “the same,” which are of entirely different origin.

In Lithuanian it is recorded only in 19th-century song collections (JR 58; JV 718; LKŽ II₂ 69).

french coat, french coat “a military-style jacket,” cf. Russian френч “the same.” The word is also found in some other Slavic languages, cf. Belarusian фрэнч, Polish frencz “the same.” This name derives from the surname of John Denton French, the English field marshal of World War I (1852–1925) (Fasmer IV 207, O. Trubachev's note; TrpŽ (3) 169). In Lithuania, this type of jacket, which arrived together with its name, was especially popular in the 1920s and 1930s. The word was used in many parts of Lithuania, especially in Suvalkija and Dzūkija (Kulik aukskienė 1970: 147; Kulikauskienė 1990: 256; Grinaveckienė 1993: 164; LKŽ II₂ 1184; Zinkevičius 1966: 151).

From the Slavic languages, the name also entered Latvian; compare standard Latvian frencis and Latvian dialectal prencis, preņcs “the same” (Reķēna 1975: 465; LLVV II 546).

kupāika “a short woollen jacket, a blouse”; compare colloquial Russian куфайка, фуфайка “a padded jacket.” The name is also found in Belarusian; compare куфайка “the same.” The word is of uncertain origin (Fasmer IV 212; ĖSBM V 174). It is rare in Lithuanian (JD 108; LKŽ 919).

Skolinį turi ir latvių kalba, plg. lat. pupaika „t.p.“ (Reķēna 1975: 466).

livery jacket, livrejā, livrejā “a certain type of uniform jacket worn by Swiss guards or butlers,” cf. Russian ливрея “the same.” The word entered Russian from French, cf. French livrée “the same,” Old French livree “a garment that masters gave (handed over) to their servants,” < from French livrer “to hand over, deliver.” This is a doublet of the verb libérer “to free.” It is further derived from Latin liberāre “the same,” liber “free” (Fasmer II 492; Klein 1966–1967: 899; Dauzat 1954: 440).

It occurs in written language (NdŽ; LKŽ VII 632; TrpŽ (3) 293).

The word is also widespread in some other languages, in addition to those already mentioned; compare Latvian livreja, English livery, and German Livree “the same.”

mundiera, mundierā, mundiērius, mandierā, manderā, mundyras, mundyrius “a uniform jacket worn by a soldier or other employee”; compare Russian мундир and Russian dialectal мундер “the same” (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 405). The word entered Russian in the 18th century.

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in the beginning, possibly through the mediation of German, cf. German Montierung, German dialectal mundierung “soldier’s jacket,” from French, cf. French monture “(military) clothing” (Dauzat 1954: 484; Fasmer III 9–10; Kiparsky 1975: 134).

The name is attested in the language of Lithuanian writings from the 18th–20th centuries; it is now rare in the dialects (R 258; MŽ 345; K; LB 125; JD 621, 1160, 1120; JV 338; BsO 82, 292; KpID 30; NS 500, 507; LKŽ VIII 406, 407). The form mandaras “jacket; tunic” most likely also arose on Lithuanian linguistic soil (LKŽ VII 820–1). Also cf. mandūra, mundūras.

The loanword is also found in standard Latvian, cf. Latvian mundieris “the same” (ME II 667; LLVV V 290).

saraponas “a torn jacket or coat,” cf. Russian сарафан “a sleeveless Russian women’s garment resembling a dress.” The name entered Russian quite long ago, cf. Old Russian сарафань, via Turkic sārap(i) from Persian, cf. Persian serāpā “formal clothing”; also cf. Greek σάραπις (Fasmer III 561).

It is rarely used in Lithuanian in the sense ‘jacket’ (Ds; LKŽ XII 150). More commonly, sarafānas occurs, meaning “a sleeveless garment resembling a dress.” It is used in this sense in some Latvian dialects as well, cf. sarapanc (Reķēna 1975: 457).

sertùkas, sartùkas “a double-breasted jacket, a frock coat,” cf. Russian dialectal серту́к, Russian скортук (Dal’ IV 178) “the same.” The name is also widespread in some other languages, cf. Polish surdut, Belarusian сурдут, Albanian surtukë, Romanian surtuc, English surdout. The word was borrowed from French, cf. French surtout “cloak, outer garment” (Brückner 1927: 526; Buck 1949: 420; Fasmer III 823). This is a word of French origin, literally surtout “above all” < sur “on, above” + tout “all, everything” (Dauzat 1954: 693; Klein 1966–1967: 1548).

The aforementioned variants are rarely used in Lithuanian (Auk, Rš; LKŽ XII 168, 433). Sartùkas is attested from the late 19th century (LB 215). Much more commonly, sùrdutas occurs, meaning “a close-fitting, long-tailed, men’s double-breasted outer garment.” It is widespread, or at least occurs, in many dialects (LKŽ XIV 210; LŽŽP 179; Mastonytė 1970: 121; At Pr 113).

NEAPIBRĖŽTIEJI SLAVIZMAI

kapotà “jacket, blouse,” cf. Polish kapota “a type of outer garment,” Belarusian капота “outer garment; jacket.” It entered Belarusian from Polish. Polish borrowed the name from French in the 16th century, cf. Old French capot, French capote “hooded cloak; women’s headdress”: cape “cloak,” borrowed from Latin, cf. Latin cappa “cloak” (Sławski II 58–9; Borejszo 1990: 147; EŠBM IV 253; Fasmer II 187; Dauzat 1954: 139; Kluge 1957: 349).

The loanword is used by the people of Širvintos and Utena (LKŽ V 242). Its better-known meaning is “a warm outer garment.”

kurtà “short jacket; women’s short jacket,” cf. Polish kurta, Old Belarusian курта

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“a short outer garment” (Skardžius 1931: 116). The word is also found in some other Slavic languages, cf. Russian курта, Ukrainian курта “the same”. It is thought to have entered the East Slavic languages via Polish from Medieval Latin, cf. Latin curtus “short”. Polish acquired the word in the 16th century; it may have been borrowed through Hungarian, cf. Hungarian kurta “short” (Brückner 1927: 284; Sławski III 413–4; Borejszo 1990: 155; ÈSBM V 170; Fasmer II 429–430). However, the word may sometimes have entered Russian by other routes as well, cf. Lezgian kurt “short fur coat”, Ossetian kuraet “bashlyk (a kind of garment worn by men and women)”, etc. (Abaev I 609–610; Fasmer II 430, O. Trubačiov’s note).

In Lithuanian written language, the word was first recorded in 1642 in an edition of K. Sirvydas’s dictionary (SD (3) 144). The garment itself is mentioned as early as the 16th century in Lithuanian inventories (510[2]). This is a fairly rare name (Užv; N; [K]; LKŽ VI 973, 979). kurtkà “jacket; fur coat; blouse” is more common.

liberija “livery”, cf. Polish liberia, Russian либерия “the same”. The name most likely entered these Slavic languages via New High German, cf. German Lib(e)rei, from Spanish, cf. Spanish librea “the same” (Fasmer II 429; Brückner 1927: 298).

It occurs in 19th–20th-century written language (LKŽ VII 398). See also livrėja.

marinárka, malinárka, maninárka, mananárka “men’s jacket; long men’s jacket”, cf. Polish marynarka “jacket”, Belarusian марынарка “jacket; short coat”. The name entered Belarusian from Polish (ÈSBM VI 242; SBG III 38–9). Polish marynarka is derived from marynarz “sailor”, which derives from Latin marinus “of the sea, maritime” (Karłowicz II 890; Doroszewski IV 481).

In Lithuanian dialects, dissimilation is fairly common whereby the first of two r sounds is replaced by l. This is especially characteristic of loanwords, cf. almideris “noise” < armideris, kalikatūrā < karikatūrā, levò/veris < revò/veris (Zinkevičius 1966: 172). The form malinárka arose in this way as well. There are cases in which the first r is replaced by n, cf. antilèrija < artilèrija, dezentýras < dezertýras (Zinkevičius 1966: 172). The same happened with the form maninárka.

The name occurs in many places in eastern and southern Lithuania (LKŽ VII 797; LzŽ 155; LzŽP 193; Kulikauskienė 1971: 168; Stravinskienė 1968: 155; Miliuvienė 1989: 155; Grinaveckienė 1993: 168).

nažutkà “short women’s jacket or padded jacket”, cf. Polish narzutka “sleeveless cloak, cape” (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 488), Belarusian нажутка “short outer garment; little jacket, jacket; blouse”. This is a word of Polish origin, cf. narzucać “to throw on, to wrap oneself in” (Karłowicz III 156).

A somewhat more common meaning of this word is “blouse”. It is used in one or the other meaning in almost all Lithuanian dialects, perhaps with the exception of the Western Aukštaitians (LKŽ VIII 595; Stravinskienė 1968: 154; Mastonytė 1964: 146; Miliuvienė 1989: 153; Bdr 157).

paletėlis (hybrid) “women’s jacket”, cf. Lithuanian pāletas, pāltas “long outer garment made of thicker fabric, coat” from Polish palto, paleto “coat” or Belarusian паліто. (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 534; Sabaliauskas 1990: 249). Into the Slavic languages

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The name came from French, cf. French paletot “ditto.” The French got it from Middle English in the 14th century, cf. English paltok “a kind of loose outer garment.” (An interesting fact is that the English later adopted the French form of the word, cf. English paletot.) The English word consists of two elements: pal + tok. The origin of the second element is unclear. The English word pall “cloak, mantle” is derived from Latin, cf. Latin pallium “ditto,” Latin palla “long outer garment.” The origin of the latter is unclear. It may be related to Old Church Slavonic pelena “swaddling clothes,” Old Scandinavian feldr “sheepskin coat; cloak,” Latin pellis (Brückner 1927: 395; Dauzat 1954: 525, 526; Guiraud 1971: 84; Kluge 1957: 528; Klein 1966–1967: 1114, 1115; Webster 1976: 825; Oxford 1985: 642, 643; Fasmer III 194, 228–9; Kiparsky 1975: 157).

Lith. paletėlis is a rare name (Tršk; LKŽ IX 254). Páltas is one of the main terms for outer garments, widespread throughout Lithuania (LžŽ 183; DrskŽ 242; LKŽ IX 275; DŽ₃ 490).

paletõnas, palitõnas “jacket,” cf. Polish paleton, palton “coat; a kind of outer garment,” Belarusian палітон “jacket.” In this sense it occurs in scattered places in eastern Lithuania and Samogitia (LKŽ IX 254, 267). It can also mean “coat.” See also paletėlis.

pindžiãkas, pinžõkas, binžõkas “short jacket,” cf. Polish pindżak “short garment” (LKA I 145), Belarusian пінжак, пінджак, бінджак “jacket.” The word entered the Slavic languages, cf. also Russian пиджак “ditto,” from English, cf. pea-jacket “short coat, jacket” (Fasmer III 259). The English borrowed it from Middle Dutch, cf. Dutch pijjekker “jacket made of coarse wool”: pij (< Dutch pie “garment made of coarse wool”) + jekker “jacket, coat” (Klein 1966–1967: 1143; Webster 1976: 843).

The name is used by people from Utena, Anykščiai, and Panevėžys, and also occurs in the South Aukštaitian dialect (LKŽ I 831, 834, IX 1036, 1037). Pindžiãkas can also mean a padded half-coat, while binžõkas means a sheepskin coat covered with fulled wool.

The word is found in Latvian and Estonian, cf. Latvian dialectal pindžuks, pindžaks, pin-džoks, bindžaks, bindžuks “jacket; a kind of outer garment,” Estonian pintsak “jacket” (Rekēna 1975: 464; At Pr 51 map, 113).

ploščiùkas (hybrid) “jacket,” cf. Lithuanian plóščius “long unpadded cloak, raincoat,” from Old Belarusian плашч, Polish plaszcz “ditto” (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 629; Skardžius 1931: 171; Palionis 1967: 280; Zinkevičius III 37, 133). This word is found in almost all Slavic languages—it is one of the few Proto-Slavic terms for garments. It is recorded as early as the 10th–11th centuries, cf. Old Church Slavonic плащь (Schrader I 603; Niderle 1956: 236; Machek 1968: 455). The word’s further etymology is not entirely clear, but it is usually linked either with Russian плат “shawl,” or with Russian плоский, Polish plaski “flat,” and other words from these roots (Brückner 1927: 420; Fasmer III 277).

As a term meaning “jacket,” the name is rare, occurring in eastern Lithuania (LKŽ X 308). In the sense “cloak,” it is known throughout Lithuania (LKŽ X 308, 309). This is an old

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a borrowing in Lithuanian, found already in the earliest written monuments (Mž 34; SD(1) 820; SP I 223; ChB 59). Here it means ‘cloak’. It was later no longer used in this sense.

It was also borrowed from Russian by Latvians; cf. Latvian plašcs ‘raincoat’ (Reķena 1975: 472). Latvian plašķis ‘wide cloak’, plāšķi ‘poor-quality jacket’, and plarkšis ‘raincoat’ are probably of the same origin (ME III 320; EH II 284; Kagaine III 99). The word also occurs in Prussian; cf. ploaste ‘sheet, bedcover’, although its origin is not entirely clear. In J. Endzelīns’s view, this may not be a borrowing but a cognate word (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 629; Endzelīns 1943: 228; Fasmer III 277).

sākas, sakēlis, sakūtis, sokēlis ‘jacket; women’s jacket; men’s jacket’; cf. Polish sak ‘men’s summer overcoat’, Belarusian сак ‘a type of women’s outer garment’. The word is widespread in many Slavic languages; in some, it means ‘bag’ or ‘fishing net’. It entered the Slavic languages from the Romance languages; cf. French sac, Italian sacco ‘bag; such a garment’. The Romance word was borrowed from Latin; cf. Latin saccus ‘bag; garment made of coarse cloth’. Germanic languages also borrowed the name from Latin; cf. English sack, German Sack ‘ibid.’, etc. It entered Latin via Greek; cf. Greek σ ά κ κ ο ς ‘ibid.’, from Hebrew; cf. Hebrew śaq ‘ibid.’ (Brückner 1927: 479; Fasmer III 546–7; Dauzat 1954: 644; Kluge 1957: 618; Klein 1966–1967: 1370; Oxford 1985: 1017; Buck 1949: 419).

The name is widespread in the Southern Aukštaitian dialect; it is used by Eastern Aukštaitian Vilnius speakers and is also found in other parts of eastern Lithuania (Mastonytė 1961: 178; Grinaveckienė 1993: 173; Stravinskienė 1968: 154, 157; LžŽ 241; LKŽ XII 21).

Turi šį pavadinimą ir latviai, plg. lat. saks „rudeninis paltas“ (Reķena 1975: 472).

žakėtas, žākietas, žēketas, žėkietas ‘short women’s outer garment, jacket’, cf. Polish żakiet, Russian жакет, Belarusian жакет, жакят ‘ibid.’. The word entered the Slavic languages from French in the 19th century; cf. French jaquett(e) < jaque ‘jacket, coat’ (Fasmer II 34; Šanskij I(5) 273; EŠBM III 202).

The name is widespread throughout Lithuania (DūnŽ 557; DrskŽ 471–2; Stravinskienė 1968: 154) and is used in the standard language (DŽ⁶ 949; Priešauskaitė 1977: 41). See also jākė.

This is also a word in standard Latvian; cf. Latvian žakete ‘ibid.’ (LVV 880).

žipōnas, žiupōnas, župōnas ‘jacket; short coat’, cf. Polish żupan, Belarusian жупан ‘ibid.’ (Skardžius 1931: 248). This kind of u-vowel hardening is not uncommon in Lithuanian dialects; cf. žiubėrklas, žiubėrklas, žibėrklas, žebėrklas, žiupsnys, žipsnys, čiupyrna, čipyrna ‘hair on the head’ (< Polish czupyrna, Belarusian чупрына) and others (Urbutis 1981: 125).

The name is also found in some other Slavic languages; cf. Russian жупан, Ukrainian жупан ‘ibid.’, Czech župan ‘dressing gown; padded coat’. It probably entered the Slavic languages from Italian; cf. Italian giuppone, giubbone ‘men’s garment made of coarse material, smock’: giuppa, giubba ‘jacket; smock’. The Italians obtained this word

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from Arabic, cf. Arabic gubba ‘a long-sleeved outer garment’ (Borejszo 1990: 161; Sławski I 591; Fasmer II 66, IV 525; Machek 1968: 731; Kluge 1957: 333; Pfeifer 1993: 599–600; Dauzat 1954: 422).

The name entered Polish in the 16th century, and by that same century this garment was already being recorded in Lithuanian inventories (LI 550[47]). The name appears in the written language in the mid-17th century (SD(3) 555). It is found in almost all dialects, except for Samogitian (DrskŽ 480, 481; Kulikauskienė 1990: 256, 263; Urbutis 1981: 125; At Pr 51 map).

The name also occurs in some Latvian dialects, cf. Latvian zupāns, župāns ‘the same’, županas ‘rags’ (At Pr 51 map; ME IV 832).

Germanisms

Loanwords from German

jėkė, jākė ‘women’s jacket’, cf. German Jacke ‘short jacket’, Jäckchen ‘little jacket’ (Alminauskis I 57; Fraenkel 1955–1965: 189). The Germans borrowed the name from French in the 15th century, cf. French jaque ‘short men’s jacket; jacket’. Linguists’ opinions diverge on what happened next. Some believe that the French acquired the word through Spanish, cf. Spanish jaco ‘short jacket’, from Arabic, cf. Arabic šakk ‘armor’ (Kluge 1957: 329; Dauzat 1954: 417, 418; Brückner 1927: 197; Fasmer II 34; Šanskij I(5) 273; Oxford 1985: 490; Buck 1949: 419). Others argue that the garment’s name derives from the proper name Jacques (< Jacobus), used as a nickname for French peasants who wore this garment (Pfeifer 1993: 593; Klein 1966–1967: 823).

Vartoja vakarų aukštaičiai kauniškiai bei pietų aukštaičiai (Kulikauskienė 1990: 263; DrskŽ 125; Mastonytė 1961: 180; LKŽ IV 290–1, 338, 339). Kiek dažnesnė šio žodžio reikšmė yra liemenė. Lietuvių raštų kalboje žodis (liemenės reikšme) pirmą kartą paminėtas XIX a. (JV I 718; J I 678). Pavadinimas buvo žinomas ir Mažojoje Lietuvoje (Kapeleris 1970: 347).

From German, the word entered Latvian and Estonian, cf. Latvian jaka (in some dialects jaks) ‘blouse, jacket’, Estonian jakk, jake ‘the same’ (Sehwers 1953: 43, 233; ME II 95; EH I 558; Rekēna 1975: 462; LLVV IV 24). There it is used in the standard language.

jópė, jópa, jópkė ‘short women’s jacket’, júopa ‘short jacket; blouse’, cf. German Joppe, Juppe ‘jacket; waistcoat’ (LKŽ IV 357, 423).

Raštuose forma jópė pirmą kartą minima XVIII a. pr. (Brand 1702: 95). Dabar pavadinimas pasitaiko apie Klaipėdą ir Šakius, buvo žinomas Mažojoje Lietuvoje (K 159; KŽ 996; I.Simon; LKŽ IV 357). Dar žr. júpkis.

kamzuolė ‘a jacket with a waistcoat and tails, a frock coat’, cf. German dialectal kamsōl ‘short jacket’. It may sometimes have entered through Slavic languages as well, cf. Polish kamzoła, Russian камзол, Belarusian камзол ‘waistcoat’. The name is also used in some other Slavic languages, cf. Russian камизэлка, камзол, Ukrainian камзол, Bulgarian камзол, Czech kamizola, etc. This word entered the Slavic languages via French, cf. French camisole ‘undershirt’, from Italian, cf. Italian camiciola, formed from cami-

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cia „marškiniai“, kuris kilęs iš lot. camisia „t.p.“ (Brückner 1927: 215; Sławski II 38–9; Borejszo 1990: 146; ÈSBM IV 223; Fasmer II 175; Dauzat 1954: 132).

Kamzuolė occurs in the western dialects of Lithuania. More commonly, variants of this name borrowed through Germanic or Slavic languages—kamziolė, kamžolė, kamizėlka, kamžėlka, kazimelka, and others—mean ‘waistcoat’.

Pavadinimą turi ir latvių kalba, plg. lat. kamzuļka „liemenė“ (Reķēna 1975: 447, 466).

kedelys ‘short jacket’, cf. Low German keddel, East Prussian German kēdel ‘short cloak; skirt’ (Alminauskis I 64; Būga II 296; Fraenkel 1955–1965: 234). This is a dialectal form of German Kittel ‘jacket’.

In the sense ‘short jacket’, kedelỹs is attested in Lithuanian from the 17th century (Lex 54); today it occurs around Lazdijai (LKŽ V 480). The word much more commonly means ‘skirt’. See also kitelis.

kitelis, kitlius ‘military-style jacket; linen jacket; linen coat’, cf. German Kittel ‘(work) smock; blouse; jacket’ (Būga III 672; LKŽ V 904). The word entered European languages from Arabic, cf. Arabic quṭn, quṭun ‘cotton’; it reached German in the 13th century (Kluge 1957: 371; Pfeifer 1993: 658; Klein 1966–1967: 848). Attempts have been made to explain this word using Germanic or Indo-European linguistic material in general (Vries 1971: 317).

It is found in some western Lithuanian dialects and in dictionaries (J II 134; KŽ 1130; LKŽ V 904, 905). The previously mentioned kedelỹs and kik įlikas ‘a type of waistcoat’ derive from the same source.

Kitèlis ‘robe’ is used in standard Latvian (LLVV IV 549).

kūzas ‘short jacket’, cf. dialectal German kus ‘poor-quality garment’ or East Prussian German kuz ‘short, small’ (Alminauskis I 77; Frischbier I 450, 452). The loanword was known in Lithuania Minor (K; K II 82; KŽ; LKŽ VI 1016). It can also mean a woman’s waistcoat or blouse.

mandūra, mandūras, mandūrė ‘military jacket’, cf. German Montur, dialectal German mondur ‘ditto’ (Alminauskis I 84; Fraenkel 1955–1965: 405).

The loanword is found in 19th- and 20th-century Lithuanian dictionaries and folklore collections; today it still occurs in some Samogitian areas (D 114; N 346; KIpD 41; K; KŽ; LKŽ VII 824, 825). Forms of this name borrowed through Slavic languages are more common. See also mundiera.

mantelis, mentelis, mendelis ‘jacket’, cf. German Mantel, East Prussian German mentel, mantel ‘cloak; jacket’ (Alminauskis I 84; Fraenkel 1955–1965: 409; Skardžius 1931: 127). The source of German Mantel is Latin mantum ‘short cloak’ (Kluge 1957: 460; Pfeifer 1993: 836).

The forms māntelis, mentelis can also mean ‘cloak’ and ‘coat’, while mendelis means ‘women’s blouse’.

Used by some Samogitians and Suvalkians (DūnŽ 508; LKŽ VII 845; VIII 7, 18). In Lithuania, it was first mentioned in the 17th century (in the sense ‘cloak’) (SD(3) 298, Lex 60 a).

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The borrowings mantelis, mantels, mantaļs, mentelis ‘outer garment’ are also found in Latvian; mantelis is a word of standard Latvian (Sehwers 1953: 76, 79; ME II 601; EH I 782, 800; Reķēna 1975: 468; LLVV V 87).

ANGLICISM

kautėlis (hybrid) ‘short women’s jacket’, cf. Lithuanian kautas ‘winter coat, outer garment’, cf. English coat ‘the same’. The source of English coat is Old French cote ‘the same’, which in turn is derived from Frankish *kot-ta. The further etymology of this word, widespread in Western European languages (cf. German Kotze ‘coarse outer garment’, Italian cotta, Spanish cota ‘outer garment’), is unclear (Klein 1966–1967: 305; Oxford 1985: 185; Kluge 1957: 397).

This is an interesting and fairly rare case of a word entering Lithuanian from English without intermediaries. In this case, the intermediary was the language of Lithuanian Americans. Other words have also entered Lithuanian in this way, cf. inžinas ‘motor’, kvoderis ‘a quarter of a monetary unit’, vėjus ‘voluntary work, drive, campaign’, etc. (Sabaliauskas 1990: 281–2).

In Lithuania, the name kautėlis is recorded in Marcinkonys (LKŽ V 449).

WORDS CLOSE TO INTERNATIONAL TERMS

frākas, prākas, prakā ‘tailcoat; tailcoat with long tails at the back; this kind of formal suit’, cf. Russian фрак, Polish frak, German Frack, French frac ‘the same’. The name entered the Slavic languages from English, cf. English frock ‘dress; monk’s robe’, which borrowed it from Old French, cf. Old French froc ‘hooded cassock’. It is ultimately derived from Frankish hroc ‘tunic, outer garment’. The latter word is cognate with Old Scandinavian rokkr, Old English rocc, Dutch rok, and German Rock ‘jacket; outer garment’ (Fasmer IV 205; Brückner 1927: 127; Kluge 1957: 213–4; Pfeifer 1993: 369; Klein 1966–1967: 624; Dauzat 1954: 338, 344).

Lietuvoje šį drabužį XIX a. viduryje dėvėjo bajorai (Guzevičiūtė 1991: 10, 12). Vėliau pati pavadinimą kai kur perėmė ir valstiečiai, žinoma, svetimą garsą f pakeitę įprastiniu p. Abi formos (su p ir su f) fiksuojamos nuo XIX a. vidurio (I; M). Tarmėse gana retas, pasitaiko apie Akmenę ir Varėną (LKŽ II 1184, X 506, 511; Zinkevičius 1966: 151). Frākas yra bendrinės kalbos žodis.

This name also occurs in standard Latvian, cf. Latvian fraka ‘the same’ (LLVV II 544).

redingōtas ‘a long jacket of a particular cut’, cf. Polish redingot, redżgot, Russian редингот, French redingote, English redingote ‘the same’. The name spread across Europe in the 18th century. It is of English origin, cf. English riding-coat: riding ‘horse riding’ (< ride ‘to ride’) + coat ‘outer garment’. English redingote was itself borrowed from French (Dauzat 1954: 617; Klein 1966–1967: 1315; Webster 1976: 968).

The garment reached Lithuania in the mid-19th century, as European-style dress became widespread. It was worn by the nobility (Guzevičiūtė 1991: 12, 17). The name is recorded in almost all dictionaries of international words published in Lithuania (TrpŽ (1) 846; TrpŽ (3) 416).

smōkingas ‘a black men’s jacket with silk-faced lapels’, cf. Russian смокинг,

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Polish smoking, French smoking, German Smoking “ditto.” The name spread in the 19th century, shortened from the English smoking-jacket “smoking jacket, house jacket”: smoking “smoking” (< smoke “to smoke”) + jacket “jacket” (Pfeifer 1993: 1302).

A word in standard Lithuanian (DŽ₃ 717; LKŽ XIII 200). It is also used in Latvian; cf. smokings “ditto” (LLVV VII(2) 54).

NAMES OF UNCERTAIN ORIGIN

jákas “jacket.” It is not entirely clear how this form came into Lithuanian. Like jėkė, it may have come via German; cf. German Jacke “short jacket” (Alminauskis I 57; Fraenkel 1955–1965: 189). Polish may also have served as an intermediary; cf. Polish jak, jaka “short blouse, jacket” (LKŽ IV 290). It is also possible that the word was formed in Lithuanian itself: alongside the feminine jekės, meaning a waistcoat or a woman’s short jacket, the masculine form jakas, meaning a jacket, began to be used. But geography seems to argue against this explanation: jėkė is used mostly in Suvalkija, whereas jákas occurs in the Western Samogitian dialect (LKŽ IV 290).

mundūras, mundūra, mùnduris “a uniform jacket worn by a soldier or other employee”; cf. Polish mundur, German Montur, German dialectal mondur “military jacket.” It is found in 19th-century Lithuanian written language (StnD 25; K II 68, 190). It is used in some dialects of southern and eastern Lithuania (LKŽ VIII 407; LžŽ 169). See also mundiera 47.

šlėmė, šlemedrėlė “short women’s jacket, blouse; sleeveless garment.” The origin of the word is rather unclear. It may have been adapted from the Germanic loanword šlėbė “a long, long-sleeved women’s outer garment pulled on over the head; a short sleeveless outer garment, waistcoat.”

The names šlėmė and šlemedrėlė are used around Skuodas (LKŽ XIV 1042).

šverdelis “a long outer garment—a jacket, overcoat.” The origin of the word is rather unclear. It may perhaps be related to Belarusian швэдар, швэдэр “sweater”; cf. also Lithuanian švėderis “ditto.” This is a rare name (Žg, Škn; LKŽ XV 517).

šverliokas “a poor-quality outer garment—a jacket or overcoat.” It may perhaps be related to šérliokas, šeflokas “bright red cloth, garment.” This is a rare name (Škn: LKŽ XV 517). Cf. also nušverliokuoti “to walk with one’s coat-tails flapping” (Srd).

švernelis “a long outer garment—a jacket, overcoat.” It is found in the Western Aukštaitian Kaunas dialects (LKŽ XV 517).

More than 60 names for a jacket have been found (variants are not included in this count). Only about a quarter are Lithuanian. They are not very common. The principal name in this lexical-semantic group is the unmarked lexeme švarkas. It may be a native word, shared by the Baltic and Slavic languages. The other names of Lithuanian origin are semantically or stylistically connoted.

In written language, names for a jacket of Lithuanian origin began to be recorded only in the 19th

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from the late 18th century to the early 20th century, except for trinyčiai (late 16th century), which was later also used with the meaning ‘jacket’, and šafkas (17th century). Six of them are listed in the Dictionary of Contemporary Lithuanian (1993), but by no means all denote a jacket in standard language: apsiaustas, palaidinis, pūšsvarkis, švarkas, trinyčiai, trumpikės.

Loanwords are classified according to the language from which they came. They are used frequently in some dialects, while others are very rare. Thirty Slavicisms (including hybrids), ten Germanisms, and three loanwords resembling international words were found. The latter entered Lithuanian fairly recently, and it would be difficult to determine the particular language from which they came. The origin of six names is unclear. Loanwords began to be used in written texts quite early: pancierius, sermegà — late 16th century; kaptōnas, žipōnas, kurtà — 17th century; kedelỹs — early 18th century. The Dictionary of Contemporary Lithuanian records only four words of foreign origin: frākas, sermegà, smōkingas, žakėtas.

LITERATURE AND SOURCES

Abaev I: Abaev V. I. Historical and Etymological Dictionary of the Ossetian Language. Moscow, Leningrad: USSR Academy of Sciences Publishing House, 1958. Vol. 1.

Alminauskis K. I: Germanisms of Lithuanian. German Loanwords in Lithuanian, Kaunas, [1934].

At Pr – Историко-этнографический атлас Прибалтики. Одежда, Рига: Зинатне, 1986.

B – Brodowskij J. Lexicon Germanico-Lithvanicum et Lithvanico-Germanicum. A handwritten German–Lithuanian dictionary, two volumes, circa 1740.

J. Balt – Juozas Baltrušaitis (1909–1991), jo raštai.

BB – The Bible, that is, the whole Holy Scripture translated into Lithuanian by Jonas Bretkūnas, pastor of Lithuania in Königsberg. (Manuscript of 1590).

Bdr – Jablonskis J. Budrių kaimas, Vilnius: Mokslo ir enciklopedijų leidykla, 1993.

Biel [sic] feldt H. H. 1970: Die baltischen Lehnwörter und Reliktwörter im Deutschen. – Donum Balticum, Stockholm.

Borejszo M. 1990: Nazwy ubiorów w języku polskim do roku 1600, Poznań: Wydawnictwo Naukowe UAM.

BP – Postilla, that is, a Brief and Plain Explanation of the Gospels...By Jan Bretkunas...Königsberg...1591. Parts I and II.

Brand J. A. 1702: Raysen durch die Marck Brandenburg, Preussen, Churland, Liefland, Plesscowien, Gross-Naugardien, Twieren un Moscovien, Wesel.

Brückner A. 1927: Słownik etymologiczny języka polskiego, Kraków: Wiedza Powszechna.

BsO – Songs of Ožkabaliai. Collected by J. Basanavičius. Shenandoah, Pa. 1902. Vols. 1–2. (The numbers indicate the song number.)

Buck C. D. 1949: A Dictionary of Selected Synonyms in the Principal Indo-European Languages, Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.

Būga K. I–III: Selected Writings, Vilnius: State Publishing House for Political and Scientific Literature, 1958–1961.

CI–II – Clavis Germanico-Lithuana. (A two-volume manuscript from the former Königsberg archive, written in 1673–1701).

ChB – Kudz inowski Cz. Chyliński’s Lithuanian Bible. New Testament. Vol. 3. Index, Poznań: Poznań Society of Friends of Learning, 1964.

S. Čiurl – Sofija Čiurlionienė-Kymantaitė (1886–1958), jos raštai.

D – S. Daukanto Dajnes Žiamajtiu... Petropilie 1846. (Skaitmenys rodo dainos numerį.)

Dal’ I–IV: Dal’ V. Explanatory Dictionary 1–4, Moscow: State Publishing House for Foreign and National Dictionaries, 1955.

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OTHER ABBREVIATIONS

a. – Aukštaitian

air. – Irish

brus. – Belarusian

bulg. – Bulgarian

ček. – Czech

dial. – dialectal

hibr. – hybrid

it. – Italian

kuršinink. – Curonian

lat. – Latvian

lenk. – Polish

liet. – Lithuanian

lot. – Latin

plg. – compare

rus. – Russian

Old – ancient

Sl. – Slavic

Ukr. – Ukrainian

Hung. – Hungarian

Mid. – Middle

Germ. – German

map – map

Sam. – Samogitian

place-name abbreviations such as LKŽ.

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COAT NAMES IN THE LITHUANIAN LANGUAGE

Summary

This article deals with the lexical-semantical subgroup of the names of coat. More than 60 of them may be found in Lithuanian (phonetical variants are even more abundant). A coat as a clothing item appeared only in 19th century, that is why its names were mostly names of other similar clothing items. Because of that names denoting coat may have several meanings.

Only one fourth of these names are of Lithuanian origin. The general name of this article of clothing is švāfkas „coat“. It is found in Latvian as well (svārki). Perhaps this word is of Balto-Slavic origin. It was first recorded in 17 century (its variant šākas). There are no more neutral names of Lithuanian origin. The others are connotated semantically or stylistically. One of them – trinyčiai „linnen overcoat; linnen coat“ – appeared in the written language by the end of the 16th century. Five names are used in Standard Lithuanian.

The borrowings are subdivided according to the language they came from. 30 borrowings came from Slavic (kaptōnas, žipōnas, kurtā etc.), 8 from German (kūzas, kitelis, manitelis etc.). Some of them were adopted in Lithuanian rather long ago (panciērius, sermēgā - 16th century, kaptōnas, žipōnas, kurtā – 17th century), but most of them are known only in some Lithuanian dialects or found in some writings. Only 4 borrowings are used in Standard Lithuanian.

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