doi.org/10.35321/term30-6

Eponymous Clothing Terms

in the Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms

Eponymous Clothing Terms in

Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms

(Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms)

AUŠRA RIMKUTĖ-GANUSAUSKIENĖ

Institute of the Lithuanian Language

ORCID iD: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8655-7333

ABSTRACT

The article examines eponymous clothing terms found in the Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms (2014), compiled by Stanislovas Algimantas Ratautas, Eugenija Strazdienė, and Ada Gulbinienė. Drawing on the works of Lithuanian and foreign linguists, it discusses the concept of the eponym and the eponymous term, and outlines the most common advantages and disadvantages of eponymous terms. It concludes that, although eponymous clothing terms are relatively rare, they enrich clothing terminology and are very important, in some cases being the only designations for clothing concepts. Most of the terms identified were of anthroponymic and toponymic origin. Terms derived from male surnames predominate. Eponymous clothing terms are fully-fledged terms alongside non-eponymous terms.

KEYWORDS: eponymous term, eponym, clothing term, metonymization, onym.

ABSTRACT

The article examines the eponymous clothing terms found in Aiškinamasis aprangos terminų žodynas (2014; Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms) prepared by Stanislovas Algimantas Ratautas, Eugenija Strazdienė, and Ada Gulbinienė. Based on the works of Lithuanian and foreign linguists, the concept of eponym and eponymous term is discussed, the most common disadvantages and advantages of eponymous terms are mentioned. It is concluded that although eponymous clothing terms are relatively rare, they complement clothing terminology and are very important: in some cases, they are the only names for clothing concepts. The largest number of eponymous clothing terms found are based on anthroponyms

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and toponyms. Terms derived from male surnames predominate. Eponymous clothing terms are full-fledged terms alongside non-eponymous terms.

KEYWORDS: eponymous term, eponym, clothing term, metonymisation, onymus.

INTRODUCTION

In recent years, eponymous terms in various fields have attracted the interest of Lithuanian linguists. Kazimieras Gaivenis mentions eponymous terms in chemistry (Gaivenis 2014 [1993]: 383; [1996]: 227) and technology (Gaivenis 2014 [1994]: 392), Angelė Kaulakienė discusses eponymous physics terms (Kaulakienė 2009: 69), Nijolė Litevkienė examines eponymous anatomical terms (Litevkienė 2006; 2010), and Laimutė Kitkauskienė discusses eponymous terms in architecture, art, and construction (Kitkauskienė 2011); Jurgita Mikelionienė (2017) addresses the transformation of onyms (proper words) into eponymous terms. However, comprehensive scholarly research in Lithuanian on the phenomenon of eponymy in terminology is still lacking. The transformation of a proper word into an eponymous term as a source of terminology in a particular field is discussed much more often in the work of foreign scholars. Articles on eponyms and eponymous terms have been published by Latvian linguists Baiba Bankava (2011b; 2013) and Ojārs Bušs (2013). In 2011, B. Bankava (2011a) defended her dissertation Eponīmi latviešu valodā: lingvistiskais aspekts (Eponimai latvių kalboje: lingvistinis aspektas), in which she also mentions eponymous terms used in various fields. Linda Pietė (2007) and Linda Kurmiņa (2010) investigate eponymous plant names in Lithuanian and Latvian, Pavelas Nečas and Petras Hejna examine eponymous forensic medicine terms (Nečas, Hejna 2012), Eva Schwarzová discusses eponymous terms in physics, chemistry, and medicine (Schwarzová 2013), Judyta Męžyk studies eponymous dance terms (Męžyk 2020), and so on. In addition to articles, lexicographic sources are also significant. In 2015, the Lithuanian-language dictionary Traumatologijos ir ortopedijos eponimai: simptomai ir sindromai., compiled by Mindia and Davidas Kasradziai, was published. B. Bankava, already mentioned, compiled Latvian eponym dictionaries: Eponīmu vārdnīca (Rīga, 2007) and Jaunā eponīmu vārdnīca (Rīga, 2012). Eponym dictionaries also exist in other languages, for example, Cyrilo Leslie’o Beechingo A Dictionary of Eponyms (1988), Mortono S. Freemano A New Dictionary of Eponyms (2002), Władysławo Kopalińskio Słownik eponimów czyli wyrazów odimiennych (2008), and others.

The subject of this article is eponymous clothing terms recorded in Stanislovo Algimanto Ratauto, Eugenijos Strazdienės, and Ados Gulbinienės Aiškinamajame aprangos terminų žodyne (2014). They are examined in the article

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with the aim of identifying the main factors determining the emergence of eponymous terms in the field of clothing. To this end, the following objectives are set: 1) to explain the concept of an eponymous term theoretically; 2) to discuss, according to the relationship between onyms and the objects they name, the eponymous clothing terms found in the source that have not previously been studied by Lithuanian terminologists; 3) to determine the place of eponymous clothing terms within the clothing terminology system. Thus, the objectives set to achieve the aim make it possible to examine the subject of the research at two levels, theoretical and practical, thereby highlighting the most common reasons for the emergence of eponymous clothing terms, as well as their role and significance in the clothing terminology system. The study of eponymous clothing terms employs analytical-descriptive and comparative methods. Given its novelty, this research is likely to be relevant not only to clothing specialists, but also to translators, editors, and others dealing with the choice or use of clothing terminology more generally.

THE CONCEPT OF THE EPONYMOUS TERM

In Lithuanian linguistics, the term eponimas (Greek eponymos—one who gives their name to something) is rarely used. International-word dictionaries define it as “the name of a person or thing after which something is named” (TŽŽ 2001: 213; 2013: 231). The Kalbotyros terminų žodyne compiled by Kazimieras Gaivenis and Stasys Keinys, it is defined differently: an eponym is “a place name of anthroponymic origin” (Gaivenis, Keinys 1990: 59). As can be seen, the definitions given in dictionaries differ somewhat. In the first case, an eponym is a name after which something is named; for example, high-heeled shoes are called manolais after the name of Spanish shoe designer Manolo Blahnik. Thus, the eponym is the name Manolo (a proper noun). In the second case, an eponym is a place name (a proper noun) derived from a proper word (a first name, surname, nickname, and so on) that designates a person; for example, the name of the locality Giedraičiai originated from the surname Giedraitis, that is, the word considered an eponym is the result of word formation. J. Mikelionienė calls eponyms proper words “that become terms” (Mikelionienė 2017: 127). Based on this understanding, it can be seen that the scholar focuses mainly not on the proper word itself considered an eponym, but on appellativization, that is, the process by which a proper word becomes a term.

An analysis of the concept of the eponym in the work of foreign linguists shows that there is likewise no single clear concept of an eponimo. David Crystal states that an eponym is “a person after whom something is named

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(e.g., an invention or a place), a name; also called appellative” (Crystal 2008: 173). Thus, its meaning corresponds to that given in dictionaries of international words, as well as in the Digital Dictionary of the German Language (Digitales Wörterbuch der deutschen Sprache, DWDS; see Table 1) and the Dictionary of Literary Terms (LT; see ibid.).

The Oxford Learner’s Dictionary (Oxford learner’s dictionary) defines an eponym as “a person or thing, or the name of a person or thing, after which a place, invention, discovery, etc. is named” (OLD; see Table 1). The Cambridge Dictionary (Cambridge Dictionary) gives an equally ambiguous definition, that is, an eponym is considered to be both the thing or person itself and the name of the thing or person: “<...> the name of an object or activity that is also the name of the person who first produced the object or did the activity” (CD; see Table 1). Thus, in these dictionaries, eponyms include both the actual name-givers (things (objects), people, etc.) and words formed from the name-givers’ names.

As Table 1 shows, the Merriam-Webster Dictionary (Merriam-Webster, MW) gives two meanings of eponym. Unlike the sources mentioned above, the second meaning is associated with the names of drugs or diseases used in medicine, which are considered eponyms, or with eponyms derived from the names of drugs or diseases. In general, it should be noted that medicine is one of the fields with perhaps the greatest number of eponyms. Tatiana Canziani states that medical eponyms are words naming syndromes, diseases, injuries, surgical procedures, clinical signs, etc., derived from the first or last name of the person who first described these phenomena, or, less frequently, from the first or last name of the patient in whom a particular clinical sign, disease, etc. was first described (Canziani 2011: 227).

To summarize the various conceptions, eponyms can be said to differ not only in how they are formed—some are simple eponyms, while others are derivatives—but also in their semantics. Mark Nicholas distinguishes five types of eponyms: anthroponymic, geographic, literary, mythological, and scientific (Nichol 2011). T. Canziani, already mentioned, divides medical eponyms into three groups: 1) true eponyms, in which the name of the scientist who first described the phenomenon denoted by the nomenclatural term is placed before that term (disease, syndrome, etc.) (Alzheimer’s disease); 2) toponymic eponyms, in which the name of the place where the phenomenon was first observed is placed before the common name, i.e. the nomenclatural term (Stockholm syndrome); 3) autoeponyms, associated with a person,

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who actually suffered from and/or died of the disease named after them (Thomsen’s disease). According to T. Canziani, true eponyms are the most numerous (Canziani 2011: 227–228). There are many classifications of eponyms, depending on the field. They depend on how finely and from which particular perspective one wishes to group eponyms.

It should be emphasized that eponyms also differ in structure. Tatjana Karavaeva, drawing on the classification presented in Tom McArthur’s book The Oxford Companion to the English Language (1996), distinguishes five types of eponyms: 1) simple, 2) compound and attributive constructions, 3) suffixal derivatives, 4) abbreviations, and 5) blends (Karavaeva 2011: 81). Simple eponyms are common words derived from proper nouns (e.g., boycott derives from the surname of the British agent Charles C. Boycott, and lynch from the surname of the Virginia planter Charles Lynch). As the scholar writes, compound eponyms are multiword eponyms comprising both proper nouns (usually personal names) and common words (e.g., Turing machine was named in honor of the British mathematician Alan Turing). Eponyms formed with suffixes are distinguished separately (e.g., the -ism suffix derivative Machiavellianism is associated with the surname of Niccolo Machiavelli). Abbreviated eponyms are rarely used (e.g., an antivirus computer program is called Casper, abbreviated from the surname of its creator, Eugene Caspersky). Blends are also less common (e.g., Nixononomics derives from President Richard Nixon’s surname and the word economics) (for more, see Karavaeva 2011: 81–82). T. Karavaeva argues that, with scientific progress, the types of eponyms discussed above are no longer sufficient. She identifies another possible type: eponyms derived from abbreviations, where the abbreviations are formed from people’s first or last names. Barbara Cappuzzo discusses multiword hybrid eponyms comprising both eponymic and explanatory-term components (Cappuzzo 2008: 27).

Latvių kalbotyros terminų aiškinamajame žodyne (VPSV 2007) pateikiama išsamesnė eponimo apibrėžtis – nors akcentuojamas pats apeliatyvacijos procesas, kai tikrinis žodis virsta bendriniu, bet kartu minimas ir jau aptartas eponimų nevienodumas (žr. 1 lentelę ir 2 išnašą). Be to, šiame žodyne patikslinama, kad eponimais gali būti tiek iš tikrinių žodžių kilę tikriniai žodžiai, tiek iš tikrinių žodžių atsiradę bendriniai žodžiai. Tikrinio žodžio tapimas bendriniu žodžiu, įvardijančiu tam tikrą sąvoką, leidžia kalbėti apie iš eponimų atsiradusius terminus ar terminus, turinčius eponiminės kilmės dėmenų.

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Although, as already noted, Lithuanian terminologists study eponymous terms rather infrequently, attempts have been made to define what an eponymous term is. J. Mikelionienė states that “[E]ponymous terms are designations of concepts formed from a proper word” (Mikelionienė 2017: 127). In Regina Kvašytė’s Introductory Glossary of Terminology, the term in question is defined as a “term whose modifying component is formed from the first or last name of a scientist, public figure, or other person” (Kvašytė 2005: 66). Thus, this definition implies that only compound designations are considered eponymous. It can therefore be argued that the definition is too narrow because, first, it covers only anthroponyms functioning as a modifying component and, second, it does not include single-word terms. In addition, the glossary gives preference to the term anthroponymic term, while eponymous term is presented as a synonym (Kvašytė 2005: 66). It should be added that in some studies, when specific eponymous terms are discussed, they are described more precisely as surname-based terms (Kaulakienė 2009: 69, 164) or surname-based designations (Stankevičienė 2013: 152).

Table 1. Definitions of the term eponym in foreign lexicographic sources

SOURCES EPONYM DEFINITIONS VPSV 2007¹ eponīms A proper noun from which a common noun arose through appellativization, for example, the surname Galife > galife, the place name Konjaka > konjaks, or one from which another proper noun of any type arose, for example, the Latvian personal name Laima as the motivator of the company name Laima, or the surname Bolivars as the motivator of the country name Bolīvija. A common noun arising from a proper noun through appellativization of that proper noun is also sometimes called an eponym, for example, galifē, konjaks, makintošs² CD eponym the name of an object or activity that is also the name of the person who first produced the object or did the activity³

¹ See online access: https://termini.gov.lv/kolekcijas/93/skirklis/417483 [accessed 2023-01-11].

² This definition, translated into Lithuanian, appears in L. Kurminas’s article: “<...> a proper noun that, through appellation, became a common noun, for example, the surname Galifė > galifė, <...> or one from which another proper noun of any subtype arose, for example, the Latvian personal name Laima as the motivating name for the company name Laima <...>. An eponym sometimes also denotes a common noun derived from a proper noun through the appellativization of that proper noun, for example, galifė, konjakas, makintošas” (Kurminą 2010: 355).

³ See online access: https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/eponym [accessed 2023-01-11].

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ŠALTINIAI

EPONIMO APIBRĖŽTYS

MW

eponym 1. one for whom or which something is or is believed to be named 2. a name (as of a drug or a disease) based on or derived from an eponym⁴

LT

eponym An eponym refers to a person or thing after which something else is named⁵

OLD

eponym a person or thing, or the name of a person or thing, from which a place, an invention, a discovery, etc. gets its name⁶

DWDS

Eponym von einer Person hergeleiteter Name⁷

LTD

EPONYM: A word that is derived from the proper name of a person or place. For instance, the sandwich gained its name from its inventor, the fourth Earl of Sandwich. The word lynch comes from Captain William Lynch, who led bands of vigilantes to hang hoboes and bums residing near Pittsylvania County. The verb shanghai, meaning to kidnap or press into forced labor, comes from the practices of conscription common in the oriental city of Shanghai. The word stentorian comes from the loud-mouthed Stentor in Greek legend, and herculean comes from the muscle-bound Hercules, and so on⁸

Kai kurie užsienio kalbininkai, nagrinėdami konkrečios srities terminus, pvz.: medicinos, chemijos, geografijos, šokio ir pan., vartoja terminą eponimas (Bankava 2011a; Męzyk 2020; Ziyayeva, Bannapova 2022 ir kt.), o ne eponiminis terminas (Ummatova 2022). Tai leidžia daryti prielaidą, kad tam tikrais atvejais jie susiaurina termino eponimas reikšmę (vartoja iš eponimo padaryto žodžio reikšme) ir jį vartoja kalbėdami apie konkrečius eponiminius terminus. Paprastai laikomasi požiūrio, kad eponiminiai terminai yra tie terminai, kurie susiję su tikrų ar išgalvotų asmenų vardais (antroponimais) arba vietų vardais (toponimais) (Cappuzzo 2008; Nečas, Hejna 2012 ir kt.). Taip pat teigiama, kad eponimai yra „tarpkultūrinių

⁴ Žr. prieigą internete: https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/eponym [žiūrėta 2023-01-11].

⁵ Žr. prieigą internete: https://literaryterms.net/eponym/ [žiūrėta 2023-01-11].

⁶ Žr. prieigą internete: https://www.oxfordlearnersdictionaries.com/definition/english/eponym [žiūrėta 2023-01-11].

⁷ Žr. prieigą internete: https://www.dwds.de/wb/Eponym [žiūrėta 2023-01-11].

⁸ Žr. prieigą internete: http://web.cn.edu/kwheeler/lit_terms_E.html [žiūrėta 2023-01-11].

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mainų rezultatas“ (Popescu, Șorcaru 2020). Kaip tik todėl kai kuriuos eponiminius terminus atpažinti nėra lengva (Somford 2018: 12), o jų tiesioginė sąsaja su tikriniu žodžiu, kuriuo įvardijamas tam tikras gyvas ar negyvas objektas, atsekama tik turint pakankamai reikiamos srities informacijos, pvz., ne kiekvienas, besidomintis kulinarija, pasakytų, kad pavadinimas plombyras yra kilęs nuo Prancūzijos miesto Plombjero (Plombières) pavadinimo (TŽŽ 2013: 644) ar kad fizikos terminas voltas susijęs su italų fiziko Alessandro Giuseppes Voltos pavarde (VLEe) ir pan. Be abejo, žinant eponiminio termino atsiradimo istoriją, lengviau suvokti ir motyvaciją, ir sąvokos pavadinimo kilmę. Sutariama, kad apskritai apeliatyvacija (dar vadinama deonimizacija, eponimizacija) – tikrinių žodžių pereiga į bendrinius žodžius – nėra dažnas naujų sąvokų pavadinimų kūrimo būdas, tačiau šis būdas praturtina bet kurios srities terminiją. Tyrėjai P. Nečas ir P. Hejna išskiria eponiminių terminų privalumus – šie terminai yra ekonomiški, lengviau įsimenami ir santykinai paprastesni (Nečas, Hejna 2012: 25). Vienas dažniausių eponiminių terminų trūkumų – jų netikslumas (ypač daug apie tai kalbama medicinos srities eponimų tyrimuose, pvz., Kumar, Brazel, Benjamin, Brem 2022), dviprasmiškumas, nesistemiškumas, semantinė „tuštuma“, neskaidrumas (Canziani 2011: 231).

Eponimų atsiranda tada, kai norima pagerbti mokslininką ar kitą asmenį, vienaip ar kitaip susijusį su eponiminiu terminu įvardijamu dalyku (Lončar, Anić 2014: 37). Tokiu atveju eponiminis terminas atsiranda iš asmens vardo, pavardės ar kito asmens vardo. Pasitaiko atvejų, kai aptariami terminai sukuriami norint įvardyti vietą, kuri yra svarbi tam tikro dalyko atsiradimui, kilmei, paplitimui ir pan. Tai leidžia manyti, kad eponiminių terminų atsiradimui didžiulę įtaką turi ekstralingvistiniai veiksniai, tokie kaip poreikis įamžinti tam tikrą asmenį (taip pat ir literatūrinį) ar vietą. Apskritai eponiminiai terminai formuojami sąmoningai ir gerai apgalvotai, jie susiję ir su tam tikro dalyko istorija, atspindi tam tikrus kultūrinius aspektus, yra tarsi tam tikras paveldas ateinančioms kartoms.

Eponimai skiriasi ne tik savo semantika, bet ir sandara. Nevieniodos sandaros yra ir eponiminiai terminai – vieni vientisiniai, kiti sudėtiniai. Remiantis Valentinos Skujinos eponiminių terminų skirstymu pagal jų apeliatyvacijos (deonimizacijos) laipsnį į dalines arba visiškos apeliatyvacijos terminus (Skūjiņa 1993 [2002]; plg. Mikელიონienė vartoja visiškai ir iš dalies deonimizuoti terminai; Mikelionienė 2017: 129), vientisiniai eponiminiai terminai laikytini visiškos apeliatyvacijos terminais. Dalinės apeliatyvacijos

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terminais laikomi sudėtiniai terminai, kurių paprastai vienas dėmuo (dažniausiai šalutinis) yra kilęs iš eponimo. Sudėtiniai eponiminiai terminai nuo kitų skiriasi rašyba – paprastai iš tikrinių žodžių kilę dėmenys rašomi didžiąja raide. Eponiminiu dėmeniu išskiriami esminiai apibrėžiamos sąvokos požymiai, susiję su tikriniu žodžiu (tam tikro asmens pavardė, vietovardžiu ar kt.). Paminėtina ir tai, kad eponiminiai terminai dažniausiai atsiranda metonimizacijos būdu, rečiau – metaforizacijos (Skujiņa 1993 [2002]; Mikelionienė 2017).

Remiantis tiek Lietuvos, tiek užsienio mokslininkų sampratomis, galima apibendrintai teigti, kad eponimu laikomas arba 1) pats tam tikro vardo davėjas (tai gali būti ne tik tikriniu žodžiu įvardijamas asmuo, bet ir vieta ar kitas dalykas), arba 2) išvestinis žodis, atsiradęs iš vardo davėjo vardo. Kadangi eponimas yra tiesiogiai susijęs su asmeniu, reiškiniu ar kt. dalyku, kurio vardu pavadinamas tam tikras objektas, šiame straipsnyje eponiminiu terminu laikomas toks terminas, kuris yra padarytas iš tam tikro eponimo (tai gali būti tiek paprastasis žodis, tiek darinys) arba kuris turi iš eponimo padarytą dėmenį ar dėmenų.

ANALYSIS OF EPONYMIC CLOTHING TERMS

The Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms contains a total of 86 eponymic clothing terms: 76 per cent are simplex and 24 per cent compound. The source dictionary’s preface states that it “presents more than 6,000 Lithuanian terms with their equivalents in English, German, French and Russian” (AATŽ 2014: 4). Thus, among such a large number of terms, those under study account for a mere 1.4 per cent of the terms recorded in the dictionary. It should be added that the dictionary contains more eponymic terms, but these designate devices (Blake machine, Mackay machine, Martindale magnifier), particular details or constructions (Derby fastening, Derby construction), or terms from chemistry (mercerization) and mechanics (Brinell hardness test, Rockwell hardness test, Shore hardness test). These terms are not considered to designate clothing and are therefore not analyzed in this article.

An analysis of eponymic clothing terms is impossible without an overview of the proper nouns from which they originated. As is well known, proper nouns are diverse, and therefore there is no single classification suitable for them (Mickienė, Bačiūnaitė-Lūžienė 2013: 18). According to the relationship between names and the real-world objects they designate, two broad groups of proper nouns may be distinguished: 1) names of living beings and 2) names of inanimate objects (things), which may in turn be subdivided as needed

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Fig. 1. Distribution of eponymic clothing terms by origin (per cent)

į dar smulkesnes grupes (Jakaitienė 2010: 267). Gyvųjų būtybių vardai dažniausiai skirstomi į antroponimus, zoonimus ir mitonimus, o negyvųjų objektų (dalykų) vardai – į toponimus (oikonimus, hidronimus, oronimus, drimonimus, urbanonimus ir kt.), kosmonimus ir astronimus, susisiekimo priemonių vardus, periodinių leidinių pavadinimus ir kt. (Mickienė, Bačiūnaitė-Lūžienė 2013: 20). Aiškinamajame aprangos terminų žodyne rasti eponiminiai terminai aprašomi skirstant juos į tris grupes: 1) toponiminės kilmės, 2) antroponiminės kilmės ir 3) kitos kilmės sąvokų pavadinimai.

1. Names of concepts of toponymic origin

The study found that clothing terms derived from toponyms account for 42 per cent of all eponymic terms (Fig. 1). These terms can be further classified according to the objects designated by their base words. Most of the eponymic clothing terms found are named after a city or part of a city: angora AATŽ 2014: 20, angora wool AATŽ 2014: 440 (from the name Angora, the former name of Ankara, Turkey), bologna AATŽ 2014: 95 (from the name of the Italian city of Bologna (It. Bologna)), Charleston style AATŽ 2014: 387 (from the name of Charleston, a city in the US state of South Carolina (Eng. Charleston)), chelseas AATŽ 2014: 101 (from the name of Chelsea, a district of London (Eng. Chelsea)), denim AATŽ 2014: 108 (from the name of the French city of Nîmes; cf. French (serge) de Nîmes), duffel AATŽ 2014: 121 (from the name of the Belgian city of Duffel (Belg. Duffel)), Everetts AATŽ 2014: 137 (from the name of Everett, a city in Massachusetts (Eng. Everett)), fez AATŽ 2014: 138 (from the name of the Moroccan city of Fez)⁹, Havana color AATŽ 2014: 381 (from the name of Cuba’s

⁹The name is associated with that of Fez, the former capital of Morocco (Arab. Fās, French Fès; VLEe). As stated in the Universal Lithuanian Encyclopedia, a fez is “a men’s red felt cap shaped like a truncated cone, with a black or blue tassel”; the synonym feskà is also given (VLEe).

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sostinės Havanos pavadinimą), kordobanai AATŽ 2014: 210, kordobanas AATŽ 2014: 210, Kordobos oda AATŽ 2014: 210 (pagal Ispanijos Kordobos miesto (isp. Córdoba) pavadinimą), muslinas AATŽ 2014: 265 (pagal Irako Mosulo miesto pavadinimą), nairitas AATŽ 2014: 266 (pagal senovės Urartu valstybės Nairi miesto pavadinimą), tiulis AATŽ 2014: 419 (pagal Prancūzijos Tiulio (pranc. Tulle) miesto pavadinimą), Venecijos nėriniai AATŽ 2014: 267 (pagal Italijos miesto Venecija pavadinimą).

The Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms contains eponymic clothing terms whose origins are associated with other settlement names: one derived from a state name: cashmere AATŽ 2014: 185 (from the name of the Indian state of Kashmir (Hindi and Urdu Kaśmir, Eng. Kashmir; VLEe)); one derived from the name of a federal state: Hessian boots AATŽ 2014: 84 (associated with soldiers from Hesse; Hesse (Ger. Hessen) is a federal state in central Germany; VLEe)); one derived from a village name: kersey AATŽ 2014: 190 (from the name of the English village of Kersey (Eng. Kersey)). Some simplex clothing terms derive from country names: Moroccan leather AATŽ 2014: 243 (from the name of the country of Morocco), vengerkos abbr. AATŽ 2014: 437, Hungarian women’s trousers AATŽ 2014: 437 (from the country name Hungary (Hung. Magyarország; VLEe)). Compound terms may be considered separately, such as Californian construction AATŽ 2014: 206 (cf. California; the footwear construction was probably first manufactured in California), Cuban heel AATŽ 2014: 293 (cf. Cuba; footwear with this type of heel appeared in Cuba in the early 1980s), and French heel AATŽ 2014: 294 (cf. France; in the 17th century, Louis XIV of France wore shoes with this type of heel, also called a crocodile heel); the modifiers in these terms are based on the names of countries where the object designated by the head of the compound term was widespread or originated.

Esama eponiminių aprangos terminų, atsiradusių iš salų pavadinimų: bikinis AATŽ 2014: 93 (pagal Ramiojo vandenyno salos Bikinių (angl. Bikini) pavadinimą), džersis AATŽ 2014: 130 (pagal Didžiosios Britanijos Džersio salos (angl. Jersey), kurioje pradėtas audinys gaminti, pavadinimą), kapriai AATŽ 2014: 183 (pagal Italijai priklausančios Kaprio salos (it. Capri) pavadinimą), taip pat ir kitų geografinių objektų pavadinimų: karakulis AATŽ 2014: 184 (pagal Karakulio oazės Uzbekijoje pavadinimą), panama AATŽ 2014: 300 (plg. Panamos kanalas). Vilnonio audinio pavadinimas ševiotas AATŽ 2014: 403 atsirado iš Šiaurės Škotijos Ševioto kalnų (angl. Cheviot Hills; VLEe) pavadinimo.

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A distinct group comprises clothing terms derived from titles associated with particular places: Chesterfield coat AATŽ 2014: 297 (named after the title of the aforementioned Earl of Chesterfield, Philip Stanhope, which derives from the place name Chesterfield), cardigan AATŽ 2014: 184, shawl-collar cardigan AATŽ 2014: 184 (named after the title of the Earl of Cardigan, James Brudenell—the Welsh town of Cardigan; cf. English Cardigan), Wellingtons AATŽ 2014: 436 and half-Wellingtons AATŽ 2014: 341 (named after the title of the Duke of Wellington—the English city of Wellington; cf. English Wellington). Although these titles were borne by people, the titles themselves derive from the names of inanimate objects—places.

Eponymous terms derived from university names were also found: Cambridges AATŽ 2014: 188, Cambridge blue AATŽ 2014: 381 (named after the University of Cambridge), oxfords AATŽ 2014: 280, Oxford blue AATŽ 2014: 381 (named after the University of Oxford).

Fewer than half of the eponymous clothing terms recorded in the Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms derive from toponyms denoting various places or localities. The examples show that, judging by the entities named by the base words, eponymous clothing terms derived from the names of cities, countries, regions, islands and other geographical locations predominate. These clothing terms arose through metonymy, in other words, through a logical connection between the place denoted by a proper noun and clothing, material or another clothing-related object associated with it. As the examples show, the place is generally associated with creation, manufacture, dissemination, and so forth.

2. Names of concepts of anthroponymic origin

Terms of anthroponymic origin make up 44 percent of the sample under study (Fig. 1). Most surname-based terms can be associated with the surnames of inventors, creators, pioneers, and also popularizers (military officers, actors, persons bearing a particular title, etc.): batiste AATŽ 2014: 89 (the fabric was named after the surname of master craftsman Jean Baptiste, who lived in the French town of Cambrai in the thirteenth century), bekesh AATŽ 2014: 92 (named after the surname of Hungarian courtier and embroiderer Kaspar Bekes), bluchers AATŽ 2014: 94 (named after the surname of Prussian Field Marshal Gebhard Blücher, who led the Prussian army at the Battle of Waterloo), bowler AATŽ 2014: 95 (named after the surname of hatter William Bowler, who popularized the hat in the mid-nineteenth century), Browne belt AATŽ 2014: 117 (named after the surname of British General Samuel Browne), French AATŽ 2014: 141 (named after the surname of English Field Marshal John French),

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galifė AATŽ 2014: 143 (pagal prancūzų kavalerijos generolo Gastono Galliffet’o pavardę), gibsonai AATŽ 2014: 151 (pagal amerikiečių dailininko ir iliustratoriaus Charleso Gibsono pavardę), rokas AATŽ 2014: 203 (pagal turtingo anglo Williamo Coke’o, kuriam buvo pagaminta ši skrybėlė, pavardę), makintošas AATŽ 2014: 242 (pagal škotų chemiko ir išradėjo Charleso Macintosho pavardę), martensai AATŽ 2014: 244 (pagal vokiečių ortopedo daktaro Klauso Maertenso pavardę), leotardas AATŽ 2014: 234 (pagal XIX a. vid. prancūzų cirko artisto Jules’o Léotard’o pavardę), plimsoliai AATŽ 2014: 322 (pagal anglo Samuelio Plimsollio pavardę), reglano paltas AATŽ 2014: 298 (pagal britų feldmaršalo Fitzroy’aus Raglano pavardę), siluetas AATŽ 2014: 362 (pagal XVIII a. prancūzų finansų ministro Étienne’o de Silhouette’o, kurio šešėlinė karikatūra buvo nupiešta jam netekus posto, pavardę), stetsonas AATŽ 2014: 386 (pagal JAV skrybėlių gamintojo Johano Stetsono pavardę), Šanel rankinukas AATŽ 2014: 344, Šanel tipo avalynė AATŽ 2014: 69 (pagal prancūzų dizainerės Gabrielle’ės Chanel pavardę). Kaip matyti iš pavyzdžių, rašyba išsiskiria dvižodis terminas reglano paltas – šalutinis dėmuo rašomas iš mažosios raidės. Galbūt taip yra dėl to, kad iš tikrinio žodžio (pavardės) atsiradęs bendrinis žodis imamas vartoti kaip terminas, o vėliau, prireikus įvardyti tam tikrą rūšį, atsiranda rūšinis terminas. Neatmetina, kad rašyba mažąja raide gali būti ir korektūros klaida.

Slightly fewer clothing terms derive from the surnames of persons bearing a particular title (earl, lord, cardinal, duke): derbies AATŽ 2014: 108 (named after the surname of the English Earl Edward Derby), derby AATŽ 2014: 108 (named after the surname of the aforementioned Earl E. Derby, who popularized the hat in the mid-nineteenth century), Cromwells AATŽ 2014: 217 (named after the surname of Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector of England in the seventeenth century), raglan AATŽ 2014: 349 (named after the surname of British Field Marshal FitzRoy James Henry Somerset, 1st Baron Raglan), Richelieu AATŽ 2014: 351 (named after the surname of Cardinal Armand Richelieu). One term was found in the source whose origin is linked to the nickname of a person holding a particular title: caligos AATŽ 2014: 180 (named after the surname of the emperor Gaius Caesar Germanicus Caligula, who wore military attire).

A separate small group consists of eponymous clothing terms named after given names. First, mention should be made of single-word clothing names derived from the names of literary characters: Juliets AATŽ 2014: 133 (named after Juliet, a character created by William Shakespeare), Fausts AATŽ 2014: 138 (named after the literary character Faust), Romeo AATŽ 2014: 352 (named after

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the name of Romeo, a character created by W. Shakespeare). The modifier in one compound eponymous clothing term is associated with the name of a religious figure, Jesus: Jesus sandals AATŽ 2014: 355. The modifiers of three further compound eponymous terms are the names of famous people: the modifier in the term Albert slippers AATŽ 2014: 405 is associated with Prince Albert, husband of Queen Victoria of England, who popularized these slippers; the modifier in the term Henry cap AATŽ 2014: 189 is associated with the name of Prince Henry of Prussia; the modifier in the term Ramesses sandals AATŽ 2014: 356 is associated with the name of the Egyptian pharaoh Ramesses. A single-word eponymous term with a distinctive formation is Napoleon boots AATŽ 2014: 266. The first element of this compound term is associated with the name of Napoleon III, Emperor of France, while the second element—boots—is used fairly often to name footwear, e.g., sports shoes, low shoes.

Two eponymous clothing terms derived from the names and surnames of literary characters were found: Mary Janes AATŽ 2014: 260 (named after Mary Jane, the character in comics drawn by Richard Felton Outcault in the early twentieth century), Peter Pan collar AATŽ 2014: 28 (named after the character Peter Pan created by Scottish writer James Matthew Barrie).

As the terms of anthroponymic origin denoting particular clothing or actions performed in making clothing show, they are generally no longer associated with a specific person: that is, the original meaning seems to have been erased by time and has faded, while the term now denotes a concrete thing (an object or an action). For example, the term derbies is primarily associated with footwear, rather than with the English Earl E. Derby who liked and wore it—or, more precisely, with his surname. Usually, only those interested in the history of footwear can explain why the shoes are called this. These terms, like those of toponymic origin, also arose through metonymy. Most of the terms found derive from surnames and given names; the fewest are clothing terms derived from a person's given name and surname, as well as terms of nickname origin. Terms derived from male surnames and given names predominate.

3. Names of concepts of other origins

Terms in this group constitute 14 percent of all eponymous clothing terms (Fig. 1). First, clothing terms derived from a proper product or brand name should be mentioned: gore-tex AATŽ 2014: 153 (after the brand name Gore-Tex, associated with the surname of the inventor father, Wilbert L. Gore, and son, Robert W. Gore), Keds AATŽ 2014: 186 (after the name Keds), Clarino AATŽ 2014: 194 (after the brand name Clarino

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pavadinimą), laikra AATŽ 2014: 230 (pagal Du Pont de Nemours (JAV bendrovės gaminamo elastano prekės pavadinimą Lycra), liureksas AATŽ 2014: 239 (pagal 1946 m. sukurto prekių ženklo Lurex pavadinimą). Iš prekių ženklų kilę terminai reti. Šiais atvejais semantinis ryšys tarp prekių ženklo kaip onimo ir juo įvardijamos aprangos yra tas, kad prekių ženklo simbolinis pavadinimas imamas vartoti konkrečiai aprangai ar iš jos gaminamai medžiagai įvardyti: prekių ženklas Keds – batams, Clarino – sintetinei odai, Lycra – elastanui. Taigi, onimas virsta eponiminiu terminu ir tarsi netenka iki tol turėto išskirtinumo ir kartu įgyja naujų ypatybių. Šiuolaikinės aprangos srityje šio tipo eponiminių pavadinimų yra ir daugiau, pvz.: inkariukai, krok­sai, konversiukai, ugsai ir kt. Pastarieji fiksuojami Lietuvių kalbos naujažodžių duomenyne (NDe).

Yra eponiminių terminų, kilusių iš pilies: balmoralai AATŽ 2014: 76 (pagal karališkosios Balmoralo pilies Škotijoje pavadinimą), uosto: satinas AATŽ 2014: 357 (pagal senovinį arabišką vieno kinų uosto pavadinimą), laivo: bleizeris AATŽ 2014: 94 (pagal laivo Blazer pavadinimą), gamyklos: džेलiai AATŽ 2014: 130 (pagal prancūzų gamyklos Jelly Shoes pavadinimą), firmos: salpa AATŽ 2014: 354 (pagal italų firmos Salpa pavadinimą), mados salono: gabardinas AATŽ 2014: 143 (pagal prancūzų mados salono Gabardin pavadinimą) pavadinimų. Rastas vienas eponiminis terminas, atsiradęs iš muzikos grupės simbolinio pavadinimo: bitlai AATŽ 2014: 101 (pagal grupės The Beatles pavadinimą).

Thus, this group of eponymous clothing terms consists predominantly of terms derived from symbolic names, which are considered proper nouns from a grammatical perspective.

As mentioned at the beginning of the article, simplex eponymous clothing terms predominate. In terms of origin, all of them, with the exception of the term pusvelingtoniai, are considered loanwords. The situation is somewhat different with compound eponymous clothing terms, since only a couple of compound terms can be considered loanwords (Čarlstono stilius, Jėzaus sandalai); the origins of the rest are mixed, i.e. they have a dependent constituent, usually of non-Lithuanian origin—in other words, borrowed (Havanos spalva, Šanel rankinukas, Brauno diržas, etc.); more rarely, the dependent constituent is a hybrid formation (kaliforninė konstrukcija). Borrowed simplex eponymous clothing terms show that proper words used as eponyms (personal names, surnames, nicknames, place names) became eponyms not in Lithuanian, but first in the language in which the item denoted by the eponymous term originated. Thus, in the case of simplex eponymous clothing terms of non-Lithuanian origin,

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ready-made eponymous clothing terms are borrowed into Lithuanian clothing terminology. No eponymous terms of Lithuanian origin are recorded in the source.

The findings suggest that about a quarter (24.5 percent) of simplex and compound clothing terms are not the sole designations for their concepts. They are used as synonymous terms, with preference in the Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms given to terms whose constituents are not derived from proper nouns: balmoralai see avalynė uždėtine jungtimi; bitlai see čelsiai; bliukeriai see avalynė uždėtiniais šoneliais; bouleris see katiliukas; derbiai see avalynė uždėtiniais šoneliais; derbis see katiliukas; Kembridžo mėlynoji spalva see šviesiai mėlyna spalva; kokas see katiliukas; marokenas see tymas; oksfordai see avalynė uždėtine jungtimi; Oksfordo mėlynoji spalva see tamsiai mėlyna spalva; rišelė see avalynė uždėtine jungtimi; stetsonas see kaubojiška skrybėlė. These terms, regarded as primary, may have emerged from the definitions themselves, which distinguish the most salient features of concepts, and from the need to organize and thereby unify the clothing terminology system. A comparison of eponymous and non-eponymous clothing terms shows that the former are shorter and motivated by a person or place, whereas the non-eponymous terms presented as primary are longer and more complex, but semantically more precise from a terminological perspective and reveal the concept’s content more clearly. As already noted, non-specialists find it harder to associate eponymous terms with the persons, places, or other proper names from which they derive, and these terms are very often used only in specialized literature. Generally speaking, regarding the emergence of eponymous terms in clothing or other fields, it may be added that eponymous terms are not stylistically neutral: their emergence is closely linked to the subjective desire to name a creator, inventor, popularizer, place, or another living or non-living entity associated with the name of the concept. Eponymous terms are undoubtedly associated with the historical and cultural context important to the emergence of a particular term, as well as to subject-field communication.

In rare cases, as the examples show, the same concept is denoted by more than one eponymous term: balmoralai, oksfordai, rišelė – avalynė uždėtine jungtimi; bliukeriai, derbiai – avalynė uždėtiniais šoneliais; bouleris, derbis, kokas – katiliukas. This essentially shows that an eponymous term is conventional and often not the only one; in certain cases, it may also be the result of disagreement. In any case, however, whether an eponymous or non-eponymous term is chosen, the main function of a clothing term remains the same—nominative, that is, to name precisely, unambiguously, and concisely

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a clothing concept, while ensuring clear and unambiguous use of the term in scholarly literature. Essentially, eponymous terms enrich terminology.

In rare cases, an eponymous term that differs only in its ending, although formed from the same proper noun, may confuse users; for example, compare the footwear name derbiai and the headwear name derbis, both associated with the surname of the English Earl E. Derby. The simplex terms denoting different kinds of clothing are short and convenient, but also easily confused; moreover, as noted earlier, each has more than one synonym.

As research on eponymous terms increases in the future, it would be appropriate to investigate the frequency of their use as well. This would make it possible to speak with greater confidence about the prevalence of eponymous terms as one of the methods of term formation, and about tendencies in their use or selection.

CONCLUSIONS

1. Eponymous clothing terms are names of clothing concepts derived from proper nouns. The emergence of these terms in the field of clothing is determined primarily not by linguistic factors (brevity, economy, widespread use, stability, etc.) but by extralinguistic factors, such as the desire to name people who created, invented, began manufacturing, or popularized particular clothing or its details; the desire to honor certain people; and associations with specific geographical locations where the clothing was created, was popular, or spread. Eponymous terms may be regarded as tokens of respect, scientific discovery, recognition of a particular person’s contribution, or simply the result of cultural exchange.

2. The data in the Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms show that eponymous clothing terms account for only about 1.4% of all clothing terms. The majority of eponymous clothing terms (about 75.5%) are the sole names for their concepts (angora wool, bekėšas, blazer, bluchers, Brown belt, duffel, jersey, gabardine, gallifet, gibsons, Hessian boots, Jesus sandals, cashmere, Cambridge shoes, kerza, etc.). The remaining eponymous clothing terms examined are used as synonyms alongside more terminologically precise clothing terms (bluchers, bowler, derbies, kokas, oxfords, stetson, etc.). The Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms contains mostly eponymous terms based on anthroponyms (first names, surnames, nicknames) and toponyms (names of cities, countries, islands, etc.). A separate group consists of terms derived from symbolic names.

3. Eponymous clothing terms occupy an important place in Lithuanian clothing terminology. Creating terms from proper nouns is one of the possible and, as

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the research results show, rare and complex ways of naming concepts. Eponymous clothing terms, especially simple ones, are concise names for clothing concepts that are terminologically imperfect; nevertheless, in certain cases they are the only traditionally used clothing terms in Lithuanian clothing terminology.

ŠALTINIAI

AATŽ 2014: Stanislovas Algimantas Ratautas, Eugenija Strazdienė, Ada Gulbinienė. Aiškinamasis aprangos terminų žodynas: daugiau nei 6000 terminų lietuvių, anglų, vokiečių, prancūzų ir rusų kalbomis, Kaunas: Technologija.

CD – Cambridge Dictionary. Prieiga internete: https://dictionary.cambridge.org/.

DWDS – Digitales Wörterbuch der deutschen Sprache. Prieiga internete: https://www.dwds.de/.

LT – Literary Terms. Prieiga internete: https://literaryterms.net/.

LTD – Literary Terms and Definition. Prieiga internete: http://web.cn.edu/kwheeler/lit_terms_E.html.

MW – Merriam-Webster Dictionary. Prieiga internete: https://www.merriam-webster.com/.

OLD – Oxford Learner‘s Dictionaries. Prieiga internete: https://www.oxfordlearnersdictionaries.com.

TŽŽ 2001 – Tarptautinių žodžių žodynas, ats. red. A. Kinderys, Vilnius: Alma littera.

TŽŽ 2013 – Tarptautinių žodžių žodynas, redaktorių taryba: A. Kaulakienė ir kt., Vilnius: Alma littera.

VLEe – Visuotinė lietuvių enciklopedija, e. variantas, Vilnius: Mokslo ir enciklopedijų leidybos centras, 2001–2020. Prieiga internete: www.vle.lt.

VPSV – Valodniecības pamatterminu skaidrojošā vārdnīca, Rīga: Valsts valodas aģentūra, 2007. Prieiga internete: https://termini.gov.lv/ [žiūrėta 2023-01-11].

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Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusa uskienė

Eponiminiai aprangos terminai

Aiškinamajame aprangos terminų žodyne

Ziyayeva Sevara Anvarovna, Bannapova Zulxumor Xatamovna 2022: Semantic aspects of the english terminology of clothing and fashion design. – Scientific culture 8(3), 212–236. Prieiga internete: https://sci-cult.org/index.php/sc/pdf/212.pdf.

EPONYMOUS CLOTHING TERMS IN AIŠKINAMASIS APRANGOS

TERMINŲ ŽODYNAS (EXPLANATORY DICTIONARY OF CLOTHING TERMS)

Summary

The eponymous terms of various fields (anatomy, physics, chemistry, architecture, etc.) are being increasingly analysed in the works of Lithuanian linguists. According to the works of Lithuanian and foreign scholars, eponymous clothing terms are clothing terms that are derived from names. The article analyses the eponymous clothing terms in Aiškinamasis aprangos terminų žodynas (2014; Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms) compiled by Stanislovas Algimantas Ratautas, Eugenija Strazdienė, and Ada Gulbinienė. These terms make up only about 1.4 per cent of all clothing terms. The majority of eponymous clothing terms (about 75.5 per cent) are only the names of concepts (angoros vilna, bekėšas, bleizeris, bliukeriai, Brauno diržas, diufelis, džersis, gabardinas, galifė, gibsonai, Heseno batai, Jėzaus sandalai, kašmyras, kემბridžai, kerza, etc.). The rest of the eponymous clothing terms researched are used as synonyms alongside more terminologically accurate clothing terms (bliukeriai, bouleris, derbiai, kokas, oksfordai, stetsonas, etc.). The dictionary mainly contains eponymous terms based on anthroponyms (names, surnames, nicknames) and toponyms (names of cities, countries, islands, etc.). A separate group consists of terms derived from symbolic names.

Eponymous clothing terms take up an important place in Lithuanian clothing terminology. Creating terms from names is one of the possible and, as the research results show, rare and complex ways of naming a concept. Although they are terminologically imperfect concise names of clothing concepts, in certain cases eponymous clothing terms, especially one-word terms, are the only traditionally used clothing terms in Lithuanian clothing terminology. The emergence of these terms in the field of clothing is primarily determined not by linguistic (shortness, economy, prevalence, permanence), but by extralinguistic factors, such as the desire to name the individuals who created, invented, started producing, or popularised certain clothes or their details, the desire to honour certain persons associated with specific geographic areas where the clothes were created, popular, or common. In general, eponymous terms can be considered signs of respect, scientific discovery, recognition of a particular person’s contribution, or simply a result of cultural exchange.

Gauta 2022-10-08

Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė Lietuvių kalbos institutas P. Vileišio g. 5, LT-10308 Vilnius E. paštas [email protected]

Terminologija | 2023 | 30

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