LIETUVIŲ KALBOTYROS KLAUSIMAI XXXVII (1997)

LEKSIKOGRAFIJOS IR LEKSIKOLOGIJOS PROBLEMOS

Danutė SABALIAUSKAITĖ-LIUTKEVIČIENĖ

NAMES FOR THE SKIRT IN LITHUANIAN

A skirt is “a woman’s garment extending downward from the waist.” There is no common Indo-European name for this item, since the item itself appeared much later. For example, the skirt is not yet found in classical Greek and Roman costume (Buck 1949: 423). Apparently, in Europe in the 10th–12th centuries, the skirt did not yet exist as a separate garment (Adomonis 1976: 94). Its functions were probably fulfilled by a certain unsewn garment made of several panels, held in place by an apron and a sash. Evidence for this garment, admittedly very scant, dates back to the 6th century (Volkaitė-Kulikauskienė 1970: 129–130; At Pr 23). Some believe that a bodice was sewn onto this kind of skirt (Adomonis 1976: 94). Such an unsewn garment, together with a blouse, made up women’s costume not only in Lithuania, but also in Estonia and Latvia. Incidentally, this garment disappeared latest in Estonia—it was still widespread there in the first half of the 19th century. It disappeared in Lithuania considerably earlier, although the transition from this garment to the sewn skirt took place at different times in different parts of Lithuania. There is very little information about this process; however, on the basis of iconographic material and inventory books, it can be claimed that by the 16th century the sewn skirt was already prevalent in Lithuania (At Pr 22–23). In East Prussia the unsewn garment survived longer and was still worn in the 17th–18th centuries (Brand 1702: 96–97; Lepner 1744: 67–68; Mastonytė 1967: 9).

It is not entirely clear what this garment (or skirt) was called. Some authors believe that it may have been called margine. Today this name simply means a patterned skirt. If we accept the premise that this kind of “unsewn skirt” was indeed still widespread in 18th-century East Prussia, it is quite possible that this is what K. Donelaitis had in mind when he wrote in “The Seasons”: “But girls despise the motley skirts they used to wear/... And shameless girls no longer blush to appear in kedeláčiai...” (Vd 351, 353). Perhaps this records the transition from the unsewn to the sewn skirt? In any case, in the 19th century the skirt was one of the most important parts of women’s costume. Considering that people often wore not just one skirt, but several layered one over another, and that these came in various colors, patterns, and so on, there are quite a number of Lithuanian names for this item.

The main name for this garment is the standard-language word skirt (other variants also occur: sejōnas, sėjonas, sajōnas). This is a Belarusian loanword, cf. Old Belarusian саянь “thick underskirt; woollen homespun skirt” (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 756; Skardžius 1931: 195; Palionis 1967: 280; Zinkevičius III 137; Sabaliauskas 1990: 250), and also Belarusian dialectal съян, съян(DABM 933, 934, 937, 938). The word is also used in some other Slavic languages, cf. Polish sajan “a narrow men’s jacket; a certain

88

wide women’s dress,” Russian саян “sarafan, long skirt.” It entered the Slavic languages from Italian, cf. Italian saione: saio “military jacket,” and is ultimately related to Latin sagum “short military cloak” (Brückner 1927: 479; Borejzszo 1990: 176; Fasmer III 567). This loanword is also found in Latvian, cf. Latvian sijāns “skirt” (At Pr 12 ž.). It is most likely a Lithuanian loanword, since it is recorded only in the Latvian border region adjoining Lithuania.

The written variant sejōnas, which probably arose in Lithuanian alongside the variant sajōnas, appeared as early as the 17th century (SD (1)71, (3)152—in the sense “summer cloak”; Skardžius 1931: 195.) Sijōnas began to be recorded somewhat later, in writings from the late 18th and early 19th centuries (D. Pošk; P). All three variants are found in 19th-century dictionaries and folklore collections (Sut; N; Kos 90; J; JV 988). The variant now established is sijōnas. Formerly used more widely in Samogitia and Užnemunė, this name is beginning to displace names common in other Lithuanian dialects, such as andarōkas (LKA I 193; DūnŽ 531; DrskŽ 324; LKŽ XII 17, 317, 538).

NAMES OF LITHUANIAN ORIGIN

It can be said that the only unmarked name of Lithuanian origin meaning “skirt” in general is apsagalas: apsėgti. The word is rarely used and occurs mostly in later writings (V. Krėv; Vaižg; A. Vien; LKŽ I₂ 256). Another somewhat neutral name is skraidōnas. However, it would be too bold to claim with certainty that it has no additional semantic or stylistic nuance, since evidence is lacking—the word occurs only in A. Juška’s dictionary (LKŽ XII 1031). All that can be said about it is that it is probably a word of Lithuanian origin, related to Lithuanian skraistė, skraidyti.

The other names are already semantically connotative and have some additional meaning. They can provisionally be divided into two subgroups: names indicating the skirt’s function, and names describing its appearance (color, shape, or the material from which it is made). The first subgroup would include words meaning “petticoat.”

apatinė, apatinis, apatinūkas, apatinīinkas, apatinīkas: apatinis, -ė. The lexeme apatinė was first recorded in 1644 (SP II 177). One or another of these variants is used in some dialects, though it is difficult to define their precise area of use (LKŽ I₂ 185). In recent times, the standard-language words apatinis and apatinūkas have become established. They mean not so much “petticoat” as a certain kind of women’s undergarment (DŽ₃ 18).

padūrkai: padūrkas “skirt hem,” padūrti “to add on, sew on” (Būga II 391). This is an old word, recorded in writings from the 17th–19th centuries (Lex 100; C II 826; R 267; K II 276; Kos 223; LKŽ IX 62). It is no longer used in this sense. Its usual meaning is “skirt hem.” The word still has this meaning today.

pāsagalas, pasagūtė, pasagà, pāsegalas, pasegamōji, pasegūtė, pāseginė

89

pasegtinė, pásegas, pasegtinis “the same”: pasėgti. Used among the Utena dialect speakers and in the northern part of the Vilnius dialect area; it also occurs in written language (Blv; LzP; NdŽ; LKŽ IX 442, 461).

pavilkinys, pāv ilkinis, pāvilkinė: pavilkti. Used in Samogitia; recorded in 20th-century dictionaries (NdŽ; DūnŽ 252; LKŽ IX 696; DŽ₃ 531). In 20th-century written language, pavilkinys is sometimes used to mean “a sleeveless Russian men’s garment.”

prisisegalas: prisisegti Used in the Rodūnia dialect of Lithuanian spoken in Belarus (LKŽ X 759).

The following names belong to the second subgroup:

aptr auk t inis “a skirt gathered at the waist with a cord”: aptr auk ti. This meaning is rare (LKŽ I₂ 274). Sometimes this is also used to name gathered fur coats.

drobinukas “a linen skirt”: drobinis, -ė. Occurs in certain parts of eastern Lithuania (ESK).

išilginė “a skirt with lengthwise stripes,” išilginis “such a garment, a skirt with a bodice, made from a single piece”: iš ilgas. Recorded in written sources (K II 133; M. Valanč; Š; LKŽ IV 187, 188).

keršėtis “a skirt of this type”: keršas. Occurs in Samogitia (LKŽ V 623).

klòstinė “a long traditional skirt”: klõstė. Rare (Srv; LKŽ VI 149).

marg inė “raštuotas sijonas; sijonas”: márgas (Skardžius 1943: 265; Buck 1949: 423). Šį žodį randame jau 1601 ir 1606 m. Lietuvos Didžiosios Kunigaikštystės tekstuose, plg. morgenia, marginia “margas audeklas, sijonas” (Jablonskis 1941: 128, 360; Zinkevičius III 120–121). Taigi bent jau tuo metu pavadinimas, matyt, buvo vartojamas ir Didžiojoje Lietuvoje. Mažosios Lietuvos tarmėse XVIII–XX a. jis buvo paplitęs gana plačiai (Brand 1902: 95; K. Donel; MŽ 158; Glagau 1970: 235; Kapeleris 1970: 347; LB 39; KlyD 373; K I 461, 462; II 133). Ši leksema XIX a. pasitaikydavo ir šiaurės rytų Žemaičiuose, tačiau čia dažniau reiškė pečių apdangalą (At Pr 163). Dabar tarmėse žodis retai tevartojamas, sijono reikšme aptinkamas tik kai kuriose Žemaičių vietose (LKŽ VII 853; Janavičienė 1992: 77). Užfiksuotas jis ir Dabartinės lietuvių kalbos žodyne (DŽ₃ 382). Tačiau apskritai įprastesnė jo reikšmė yra “margas audeklas”, plg. dar liet. margėnis “raštuotas, languotas audeklas”, margienis “prastas naminis spalvotas audeklas”, marginys “margas naminis marškonis audeklas”.

According to some sources, at the end of the 19th century this lexeme (a borrowing from Lithuanian) was also known in some parts of Latvia, but there, as was most often the case in Samogitia, it denoted a particular shoulder covering (At Pr 22). Incidentally, in Estonian the same word also often meant both a shoulder covering and the previously mentioned unsewn skirt (At Pr 23).

From Lithuanian, this word entered some Polish and Belarusian dialects; compare Polish marginja “a fabric woven from linen threads mixed with wool and cotton” (Urbutis 1992: 65; Laučiūtė 1982: 80), Belarusian маргень “checked fabric” (SBG III 32). This Lithuanianism was also used in the German dialects of East Prussia; compare German Marg inne

90

“a multicolored skirt,” though it is sometimes mistakenly associated directly with Lith. margas, rather than with Lith. margine (Bielfeldt 1970: 49; Skardžius 1972: 92).

pašlavinis “a skirt with crosswise stripes”: pašluoti. A rare word (LKŽ IX 574).

puškuotis, puškuotinis “a skirt made of puckered fabric”: puškuotas, puškas. Recorded in the vicinity of Plungė (LKŽ X 1116).

rainys, rainėlė, rainiukas “a striped skirt”: rainas. Found in the writings of some 19th–20th-century authors (Blv; A. Vien). Used in the Panevėžys dialect, and occurring in some other parts of Lithuania (LKŽ XI 55, 56; ESK).

rėžinis “a thick, coarse skirt”: rėžis. Recorded around Utena (LKŽ XI 507).

ruožinėlis, ruožuotinis “a striped skirt”: ruožas. Occurs in certain parts of Lithuania (LKŽ XI 982, 983).

skersė, skersinaitė, skersinis, skersinukas “a skirt with crosswise stripes.” Used by Samogitians and some western and southern Aukštaitian dialects; occurs in 20th-century writings and is a standard-language word (NdŽ; V. Krėv; Mastonytė 1964: 145; LKŽ XII 825, 827; DŽ₃ 701).

smulkinukas “a skirt with a fine pattern”: smùlkus. Recorded around Rietavas (LKŽ XIII 221).

šimtākloštis, šimtākloštė “a pleated women’s garment (usually a skirt or jacket)”: šìmtas+klõštė. Rare (LKŽ XIV 815).

SLAVIC LOANWORDS

POLONISMS

čemõras “a wide skirt worn by elderly women,” cf. Polish czamara “a long outer garment for men” (LKŽ II₂ 67). A fairly rare word, recorded with this meaning around Jurbarkas. The same name occurs in Belarusian, cf. чамарка “a long outer garment made of broadcloth.”

The word entered Polish in the 16th century via Italian, cf. Italian cimarra, Italian dialectal aciamarra “long garment; fur coat,” or via Spanish, cf. Spanish chamarra (Old Spanish çamarra) “fur coat,” from Arabic, cf. Arabic sammur “fur coat; fur” (Borejszo 1990: 134; Bartkiewicz 1974: 150; Fasmer IV 330).

In Lithuanian, the cognate name čemãrka “a kind of outer garment” is much more common (Guzevičiūtė 1991: 4, 17, 18; LKŽ II₂ 66).

pasamõnai “an everyday, ordinary skirt or garment,” cf. Polish pasamon “border, dress hem” (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 543; LKŽ IX 453). In Lithuanian, more common meanings are “the bottom of a long skirt or garment; skirt hems.” The word entered Polish in the 16th century from Italian, cf. Italian passamano “idem” (Brückner 1927: 338; Borejszo 1990: 166). In Lithuanian, it is used in the sense “skirt” in some parts of southern and southwestern Lithuania, as well as in Punsk (LKŽ IX 453).

žerstùkas, žerstùkas “skirt.” The origin is not entirely clear. It most likely came via

91

Polish, cf. Polish szorstuch “apron,” szarstuch “shawl; apron.” The word entered Polish from German, cf. Middle High German schurztuoch “apron; a garment of this kind; outer garment; blouse” (Brückner 1927: 541, 552; Borejszo 1990: 181). The German forms are compounds of two words: Schurz “apron” + Tuch “kerchief, rag” (Grimm XV 2070).

The name is fairly rare, occurring in some parts of southern, southwestern, and eastern Lithuania (LKA I 115 ž., 193; LKŽ K; LEB 344; Mastonytė 1961: 179). Words with these roots, borrowed from German or Polish and meaning “apron,” are much more commonly used in Lithuanian, cf. šiurštokas, šiurčiukas, žiurštokas, žiurstokas, šerštukas, šeštukas (Alminauskis I 127, 150; LKŽ XIV 667, 698, 967). In written sources, separate variants are recorded as early as the 16th–17th centuries (šiurčiukas – BB1Moz 3, 7; šeštukas – SD(3) 437).

BELARUSIAN LOANWORDS

kabačikas “a worn-out, shabby skirt”, cf. Belarusian каба́цік: кабат “(warm) vest”. The word is also widespread in other Slavic languages, cf. Polish kabat “a kind of tight-fitting jacket; frock coat”, Russian кабат, Czech kabát, etc. In some of these languages, it was known as early as the 10th–11th centuries, cf. Old Church Slavonic кабатъ “a long garment fastened with buttons” (Niderle 1956: 230). The word most likely entered Belarusian from Polish (ESBM IV 9; SBG II 352). The Poles borrowed it from Hungarian in the 15th century, cf. Hungarian kabát “frock coat”. The word’s further origin is quite unclear. Similar names occur in Persian, Arabic, Greek, Turkic, and other languages (Sławski II 9; Borejszo 1990: 145; Fasmer II 150; Machek 1968: 233).

In this sense, the word is rare in Lithuanian (Škn; LKŽ V 3). Also borrowed from Slavic languages, the forms kabačius, kabačikas, kabačiukas, kabačikas “sleeveless dress” and kóbotas, kabòtas “a warm sleeveless woman’s garment; vest” are used somewhat more frequently (LKŽ V 3, 26; VI 281).

kvalbonūtis (hybrid) “a pleated skirt”, cf. Lithuanian kvalbónas “certain ruffles, pleats sewn onto women’s clothing (usually skirts or aprons) as decoration”, cf. Belarusian хвальбо́на “pleated hem, frill”. A fairly rare name (Ggr; LKŽ VI 1039).

kvaldėtis (hybrid) “a kind of pleated skirt”, cf. Lithuanian kvaldà “pleat”, Belarusian хвалда “ditto”. A rare word (Šts; LKŽ VI 1039).

spadnyčia, spadninčia, spadničia, spadnyca, sparnyčia, spanyčia “skirt (usually made of purchased fabric); underskirt”. It most likely came from Belarusian, cf. Belarusian спадніца, спаніца “skirt” (LKA I 193). Some variants may also have occasionally come from Polish, cf. Polish spódnica, spodnica “ditto”. The Polish name derives from Polish spodni “lower”: spod<pod “under” (Brückner 1927: 424–425; Buck 1949: 423).

This word appeared in Lithuanian writings only in the 20th century (NS 130; NdŽ). It is used mainly in eastern dialects, but is also found in southern and western Lithuania (LKA I 115 ž.; LzŽ 242; DrskŽ 340; LKŽ XIII 307, 332).

92

šimtakvōldis, šimtakvōldė (hybrid) “a pleated women’s garment, usually a skirt or jacket, a hundred-pleat garment”: šimtakvōldis, -ė “with many pleats” < šimtas + kvōldas “pleat”, cf. Belarusian хвацда “ditto”. A rare word, found in 20th-century usage (LKŽ XIV 815). Similar hybrids are also used in Lithuanian: šimtakvōldė “a pleated jacket”, šimtakvōldė “a woman’s sermega” (LKŽ XIV 815).

INDEFINITE SLAVIC LOANWORDS

andarōkas, anderōkas, andarēkas, anderēkas “skirt”; cf. Polish andarak “same”, Belarusian андарак, андерак “a homespun striped or checked skirt” (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 10; LKA I 193). The word is also used in some other Slavic languages; cf. Russian андарак, андрак “woolen skirt; petticoat,” Ukrainian андарак “skirt,” Bulgarian андарак “same.” The origin is not entirely clear, but it most likely entered the Slavic languages from German; cf. German Unterrock “petticoat” < unter “under” + Rock “skirt” (Fasmer I 78; ÈSBM I 112–113; Karłowicz I 35). Estonians have also borrowed this name; cf. undruk, undrok, undrek “skirt” (At Pr 12 ž.). In Lithuanian written sources, the word began to be recorded only in the 19th century (JD 107). However, it must have entered Lithuanian considerably earlier, since it is one of the most widespread skirt names in Lithuania, alongside sijōnas, used in Samogitia and Užnemunė (LKŽ I₂ 134, 135; LKA I 115 ž., 193; LzŽ 21; DrskŽ 15; Dub 196). Today, andarōkas is being displaced from use by the standard-language word sijōnas. The place names Andarōkinė, Andarōkinės tiltas are probably also associated with andarōkas (Būga III 454).

Derivatives of this name with a stylistic connotation also arose in Lithuanian, cf. andarēkšlis, andarōkšlis “an old, poor-quality skirt.” These words are also found in Lithuanian dialects of Belarus (LKŽ I₂ 134).

indarōkas “skirt”; cf. Polish indarak, Belarusian dialect ин дерак “same” (LKA I 193; Fraenkel 1955–1965: 10; Būga III 454). It most likely entered the Slavic languages from German; cf. German Unterrock “petticoat” (Brückner 1927: 92; Borejszo 1990: 143–144; Bartkiewicz 1974: 174; ÈSBM I 112–113).

In Lithuanian this is a considerably rarer variant than andarōkas (J; JR 67; LKA I 193; LKŽ IV 105). See also andarōkas.

jupikas, jupikis “skirt,” pajupa (hydronym) “petticoat”; cf. Lithuanian jupà “a type of outer garment,” jūpkis “women’s jacket,” which are in turn related to Polish jupa, jupka, Old Belarusian юпа “an old-fashioned woman’s garment; jacket,” юпка “skirt.” The name entered the Slavic languages from German; cf. German Joppe, Juppe “jacket, vest.” Around 1200, the Germans borrowed this garment name from Old Italian; cf. Italian giuppa “jacket; undergarment,” which had received it from Arabic; cf. Arabic gubba “long-sleeved outer garment; cotton undergarment” (Brückner 1927: 209; Sławski I 591; Fasmer IV 525; Kluge 1957: 333; Pfeifer 599–600). Notably, the same Arabic word was the original source of Lithuanian šūbà, žipōnas.

This is what the southern Samogitian Raseiniai dialect speakers call a skirt (LKŽ IV 430; LKA I 193).

93

The variant pajupa is recorded in old written sources (C II 323; B; [K]; LKŽ IX 136).

šeliopas “skirt”; cf. Russian салоп, Belarusian салоп, Polish salopa “a type of women’s outer garment, a cloak.” The word entered the Slavic languages from Western Europe; cf. French salope, German Saloppe “women’s cloak” (Fasmer III 550; Kartowicz VI 12; Kluge 1957: 621–622; Dauzat 1954: 17).

This is a rare name found in eastern Lithuania (LKŽ XII 354). More commonly, Lithuanian uses salõpas, saliõpas, sėliopas “a warm, long women’s cloak; cloak” (LKŽ XII 81, 82, 354).

sukenka, sukienka “sijonas”, plg. lenk. sukienka: suknia “suknelė” (Borejszo 1990: 180), brus. сукенка: сукня “t.p.”.

It is used around Druskininkai and in some Lithuanian dialects of Belarus (DrskŽ 355; LKA I 193). See also suknelė.

suknelė (hybrid), suknia “skirt”; cf. Belarusian сукня “woolen skirt; dress” (LKA I 193), Polish suknia “dress; a certain kind of pleated skirt” (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 938). The word is also found in other Slavic languages; cf. Russian сукня “dress,” Czech sukne “skirt,” and others. It is a word of Slavic origin, related to Russian сукно, Polish sukno “broadcloth,” which are in turn related to the verb *sъkati; cf. Russian сукать “to twist,” Polish sukać “to move about” (Fasmer III 799; Brückner 1927: 525; Buck 1949: 423).

Only the southern Aukštaitian dialect speakers use it with the meaning “skirt” (DrskŽ 355; Mastonytė 1961: 178; LKA I 193; LKŽ XIV 77).

GERMANISMS

kedelýs, kėdilis “skirt, underskirt”, cf. Low German keddel, East Prussian German kėdel “short coat; skirt” (Alminauskis I 64; Būga II 296; Fraenkel 1955–1965: 234). This is a dialectal form of German Kittel “(work) smock; blouse; jacket”. The word entered European languages from Arabic, cf. Arabic qutn, qutun “cotton”; it reached German in the 12th century (Kluge 1957: 371; Pfeifer 658; Klein 848). Attempts have been made to explain the word using Germanic or Indo-European data more generally (Vries 1971: 317).

In Lithuanian, kedelýs was first recorded in the 17th century (Lex 54 (meaning ‘jacket’); Pr LXVII 19). It is found in later dictionaries of Lithuania Minor and folklore collections, and occurs in the works of K. Donelaitis (B; R 384; MŽ 516; K; N; KŽ; Jrk 12; KlvD 35; KlpD 19; Kabelka 1964: 109). It is also found in A. Juška’s dictionary and folklore collections (J; JD 258; JV 1022).

This name is used by Western Samogitians, the Highlanders of the Klaipėda Region, and some Western Highlanders of the Kaunas area (LKA I 115 map, 193; At Pr 12 map; LKŽ V 480, 482).

Latvians also borrowed this word from German, cf. Latvian ķedele, ķedelis “skirt”; the Curonians of the Curonian Spit, cf. Curonian ķedile “ditto”; and Poles, cf. Polish kiedel “blouse” (Sehwers 1953: 62, 232; ME II 359; Pietsch 1982: 78; Sławski

94

II 179–180).

Other names derived from the same source are also used in Lithuanian, cf. kedelės “jacket”, kitelis, kitlius “military-style jacket; linen jacket” (LKŽ V 480, 904, 905).

nyderis “underskirt”, cf. German nieder “down”. Found in the vicinity of Kuršėnai (DūnŽ 513).

rūkis, rūkšinis, rāikis, rāikinis “hempen skirt; underskirt”, cf. German Rock “skirt” (Alminauskis I 113; Fraenkel 1955–1965: 746). In K. Būga’s view, the loanword entered Lithuanian through Curonian (Būga II 304), but it was more likely borrowed directly from German. In some East Prussian German dialects, the transitional sound ə[j] was pronounced after o. Therefore, rūkis is derived from East Prussian roək “skirt” (Čepienė 1994: 160). The origin of German Rock is rather unclear. Some linguists attempt to connect it with Old Irish rucht “tunic, woollen undergarment for men”; others consider it a word of Germanic origin (Kluge 1957: 604; Pfeifer 1133).

This name for a skirt is used in some parts of Samogitia and is found in several dictionaries from the late 19th to the 20th century (J rūkšinis in the sense ‘poor-quality garment’; KŽ; LKŽ XI 51, 911; LKA I 115 map, 193).

šiuršė “underskirt”, cf. German Schurze, East Prussian German šorz, šertš “apron” (Alminauskis I 150; Fraenkel 1955–1965: 1316). These are dialectal forms of German Schurz, Schürze. The name is of Germanic origin and is related to English shirt “shirt” and short “short” (Kluge 1957: 685). The original meaning of shirt was “short garment” (Klein 1436).

It occurs in Lithuanian written language (Kos 159; NdŽ; LKŽ XIV 966). The word is also used in the sense “apron”.

šlėbė “skirt”, cf. German dialect schlabbe “(children’s) apron, bib” (LKŽ XIV 1031–1032; Frischbier II 277). This is a word of German origin, cf. German schlabbern “to lap, slurp” (Grimm XV 229, 230).

The meaning “skirt” is very rare (LKŽ XIV 1032). It can also mean a long, sleeved outer garment for women or children, pulled on over the head; a short sleeveless outer garment (usually warm and fur-lined); a waistcoat, jacket, or sleeveless dress.

šliūcas “skirt with a side slit”, cf. German Schlitz “skirt slit” (Frischbier II 287; LKŽ XIV 1087). A word of Germanic origin (Kluge 1957: 659).

This is a very rare loanword in Lithuanian.

NAME OF UNCERTAIN ORIGIN

liūčius, liūčas, ličas “a worn-out, poor-quality skirt.” E. Fraenkel derives it from German, cf. German Litze “ribbon, edging” (Fraenkel 1955–1965: 363). Perhaps it might be possible to link the word with Polish łyczak “sackcloth.”

In Lithuanian written sources, the word appeared only in the 20th century; it is found in the area between Rokiškis, Kupiškis, Panevėžys, Pakruojis, Radviliškis, Raseiniai, and Kėdainiai (LKŽ VII

95

400, 597; LKA I 115 ž., 193).

As we can see, about 40 names for the skirt have been found (variants are not included in this number). About half of them originated in Lithuanian. However, names of Lithuanian origin are not very common. Even the principal name for this garment is a Belarusian borrowing – sijonas. The second most widespread is also a Slavic borrowing – andarōkas. Almost all names of Lithuanian origin are semantically connoted (except āpsagalas and perhaps skraidōnas). Five denote an underskirt, and 14 describe the skirt’s appearance (its color or the material from which it is sewn). It is noteworthy that these names usually have a clearly defined meaning.

Three names of Lithuanian origin are attested as early as the 17th century – namely apatinė, padūrkai and marginė. Others appear in written language later, in the 19th–20th centuries. Seven names are listed in the Dictionary of Contemporary Lithuanian (1993): apatinis (apatinukas), āpsagalas, padūrkas, pašagalas, pavilkinys, marginė, skersė (incidentally, not all of these mean ‘skirt’). It is doubtful whether all of them are used in spoken language.

Twenty-two names for the skirt entered Lithuanian from other languages. Some are fairly widespread in Lithuanian dialects, while others are less common. Their meaning is often not as clearly defined as that of words of native origin; cf. žerstūkas, žerstūkas “skirt”; šerštukas, šerštukas“apron; leather apron; poor-quality apron”, šiuršė “underskirt; apron”, šlebė “skirt; a long, sleeved outer garment worn over the head by women or children; a short sleeveless outer garment, vest, jacket; dress, sleeveless dress,” and so on. Most loanwords entered Lithuanian from Slavic languages (hybrids are also counted here) – 15 (6 Belarusian borrowings, 3 Polish borrowings, and 6 Slavic borrowings of uncertain origin). Six Germanisms were found. Two names of foreign origin are used in the standard language: the Slavic borrowings sijōnas and suknia (suknėlė), but only the first in the sense ‘skirt.’ Two borrowings are attested in 17th-century writings: sijōnas (more precisely, the form sejōnas) and the Germanism kedelýs.

REFERENCES AND SOURCES

A d o m o n i s T. 1976: Lietuvių išeiginiai drabužiai IX–XVI amžiuje. – Menotyra, 6.

A l m i n a u s k i s K. I: Die Germanismen des Litauischen. Die Deutschen Lehnwörter im Litauischen 1, Kaunas, [1934].

At Pr – Историко-этнографический атлас Прибалтики. Одежда, Рига: Зинатне, 1986.

B – Lexicon Germanico-Lithvanicum et Lithvanico-Germanicum, therein... by I a c o b o B r o d o v s k i j. (A handwritten German-Lithuanian dictionary, two volumes, circa 1740.)

B a r t k i e w i c z M. 1974: Odzież i wnętrza domów mieszczańskich w Polsce w drugiej połowie XVI i w XVII wieku, Wrocław... etc.: Zakład narodowy imienia Ossolińskich Wydawnictwo Polskiej Akademii Nauk.

BB – Biblia tatái esti wissas Schwentas Raschtas translated into Lithuanian by J a n a s B r e t k u n a s. Pastor of Lithuania in Karaliaučius. (1590 manuscript.)

Bdr - J a b l o n s k i s I. Village of Budriai, Vilnius: Mokslo ir enciklopedijų leidykla, 1993.

B i e l f e l d t H. H. 1970: Die baltischen Lehnwörter und Reliktwörter im Deutschen. – Domum Balticum, Stockholm.

Blv – Jonas B a l v o č i u s – G e r u t i s (1842–1915), his writings.

B o r e j s z o M. 1990: Nazwy ubiorów w języku polskim do roku 1600, Poznań: Wydawnictwo

96

Naukowe UAM.

B r a n d J. A. 1702: Raysen durch Marck Brandenburg, Preussen, Churland, Liefland, Plesscovien, Gross-Naugardien, Tweerien un Moscovien, Wesel.

B r ü c k n e r A. 1927: Słownik etymologiczny języka polskiego, Kraków: Wiedza Powszechna.

B u c k C. D. 1949: A Dictionary of Selected Synonyms in the Principal Indo-European Languages, Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.

B ū g a K. I–III: Selected Writings 1–3, Vilnius: State Publishing House of Political and Scientific Literature, 1958–1961.

C I–II – Clavis Germanico – Lithvana. (A two-volume manuscript from the former Königsberg archive, written in 1673–1701.)

Č e p i e n ė N. 1994: Dvibalsio ui kilmė skoliniuose iš vokiečių kalbos. – Lietuvių kalbotyros klausimai 34.

DABM – Dialectological Atlas of the Belarusian Language, Minsk: Publishing House of the Academy of Sciences of the BSSR, 1963.

D a u z a t A. 1954: Dictionnaire étymologique de la langue française, Paris: Librairie Larousse.

K. Donel – C h r i s t i a n D o n a l i t i u s. Lithuanian Poems... edited by G. H. F. N e s s e l m a n n, Königsberg, 1869.

DrskŽ – N a k t i e n ė G., P a u l a u s k i e n ė A., V i t k a u s k a s V. Dictionary of the Druskininkai Dialect, Vilnius: Mokslas, 1988.

Dub – K u l i k a u s k i e n ė V., M a s t o n y t ė M. Men's and women's clothing. – Dubingiai, Vilnius: Vaga, 1971, 187–200.

DunŽ – V i t k a u s k a s V. Dictionary of the Northeastern Dzūkian Dialects, Vilnius: Mokslas, 1976.

Dy – S t r a v i n s k i e n ė A. Clothing. – Dieveniškės, Vilnius: Vaga, 1968, 146–158.

DŽ₃ – Dictionary of Contemporary Lithuanian, Vilnius: Publishing House of Science and Encyclopedias, 1993.

EŠBM I–IV – Etymological Dictionary of the Belarusian Language 1–4, Minsk: Navuka i tekhnika, 1978–1988.

ESK – Card file of the Ethnography Section of the Institute of History.

F a s m e r I–IV: Фасмер М. Etymological Dictionary of the Russian Language 1–4, Moscow: Progress, 1964–1973.

F r a e n k e l E. 1955–1965. Litauisches etymologisches Wörterbuch 1–2, Heidelberg-Göttingen: Carl Winter Universitätsverlag.

F r i s c h b i e r H. I–II: Prussian Dictionary 1–2, East and West Prussian provincialisms in alphabetical order, Berlin: Verlag von Th. Chr. Fr. Enslin, 1882–1883.

G l a g a u O. 1970: The way of life and character of the Prussian Lithuanians. – Prussian Lithuanians, Vilnius: Vaga, 228–255, 446–447.

G r i m m XV: Grimm J., Grimm W. German Dictionary 15, Munich: Deutscher Taschenbuch Verlag, 1984.

G u z e v i č i ū t ė R. 1991: The costume of the Lithuanian nobility in the context of pan-European culture (1830–1963). – Lituanistica 4(8), 3–18.

J – Lithuanian Dictionary by A. Juškevičius with word definitions in Russian and Polish I (1), St. Petersburg, 1897; (2), St. Petersburg, 1904; (3) [2(1)], Petrograd, 1922.

J a b l o n s k i s K. 1941: Lietuviški žodžiai senosios Lietuvos raštinių kalboje 1, Tekstai, Kaunas: Lietuvos istorijos draugija.

J a n a v i č i e n ė J. 1992: Žemaičių Naumiesčio lietuvininkai, Vilnius: Mokslo ir enciklopedijų leidykla.

JD – Lithuanian songs recorded by A n t á n ą J u š k é v i č ę 1–3, Kazan, 1880–1882. (The numbers indicate the song number.)

JR – Wedding custom of the Lithuanian Vėluńyčiai recorded by A n t á n ą J u š k é v i č ę, Kazan, 1870.

JV – Lithuanian wedding songs, recorded by A n t á n ą J u š k é v i č ę and printed by J ó n ą J u š k é v i č ę, Petropylė, 1883. (The numbers indicate the song numbers.)

K, [K] – Lithuanian-German Dictionary by F r i e d r i c h K u r s c h a t, Halle, 1883 ([] is placed beside words whose authenticity Kuršaitis doubts).

97

K I–II – K u r s c h a t F. German-Lithuanian Dictionary by F r i e d r i c h K u r s c h a t, 1, 2, Halle: Verlag der Buchhandlung des Waisenhauses, 1870, 1874.

K a b e l k a J. 1964: Kristijono Donelaičio raštų leksika, Vilnius: Mintis.

K a p e l e r i s K. 1970: Kaip senieji lietuvininkai gyveno. – Lietuvininkai, Vilnius: Vaga, 339–436.

K a r ł o w i c z I–VIII: K a r ł o w i c z J., K r y ń s k y A., N i e d ź w i e d ź k i W. Dictionary of the Polish Language 1–8, Warsaw, 1900–1927.

K l e i n E. A Comprehensive Etymological Dictionary of the English Language, Amsterdam, London, New York: Elsevier Publishing Company, 1966–1967.

KlpD – Klaipėda Songs. Collected by J o n a s P a k a l n i š k i s. Published by A. Bruožis, Vilnius, 1908. (The numbers indicate the song numbers.)

K l u g e F. 1957: Etymologisches Wörterbuch der deutschen Sprache, Berlin: Walter de Gruyter & Co.

KlvD – Songs of the Prussian Lithuanians. Collected by... V i l u s K a l v a i t i s, Tilsit, 1905.

Kos – Litvanica, or information about Lithuania collected by... A m b r o ż e g o K o s s a r z e w s k i e g o. (Manuscript. The author lived circa 1820–1880.)

V. Krėv – V i n c a s K r ė v ė – M i c k e v i č i u s (1882–1954), his writings.

KŽ – K u r š a i t i s A. Lithuanian-German Dictionary... 1–4, Göttingen: Vandenhoeck & Ruprecht, 1968–973.

L a u č i ū t ė J. 1982: Лаучюте Ю. Словарь балтизмов в славянских языках, Ленинград: Наука.

LB – Lithuanian Folk Songs and Tales from Prussian and Russian Lithuania, collected by A. L e s k i e n and K. B r u g m a n n, Strasbourg: Verlag von Karl. J. Trübner, 1882.

LEB – Features of Lithuanian Ethnography, Vilnius: State Publishing House of Political and Scientific Literature, 1964.

L e p n e r T. 1744: Der Preusche Littauer, Danzig.

Lex – Lexicon Lithuanicum. Parengė V. D r o t v i n a s, Vilnius: Mokslas, 1987. (Rankraštinis XVII a. Vokiečių-lietuvių kalbų žodynas.)

LKA I – Atlas of the Lithuanian Language 1, Vilnius: Mokslas, 1977.

LKŽ I–II – Dictionary of the Lithuanian Language 1–2, Vilnius: Mintis, 1968–1969.

LKŽ III–XVI – Dictionary of the Lithuanian Language 3–6, Vilnius: State Publishing House for Political and Scientific Literature, 1956, 1957, 1959, 1962; 7–9: Mintis, 1966, 1970, 1973; 10–15: Mokslas, 1976, 1978, 1981, 1984, 1986, 1991; 16: Publishing House of Science and Encyclopedias, 1995.

LKŽ K – Card index of the “Dictionary of the Lithuanian Language.”

LzP – L a z d y n ų P e l ė d a (Sofija Pšibiliauskienė (1867–1926) and Marija Lastauskienė (1872–1957), their writings.

LžŽ – P e t r a u s k a s J., V i d u g i r i s A. Dictionary of the Lazūnai dialect, Vilnius: Mokslas, 1985.

M a c h e k V. 1968: Etymologický slovník českého, Praha: Academia.

M a s t o n y t ė M. 1961: Dzūkijos moterų drabužiai XIX a. antrojoje pusėje – XX a. pradžioje. – Iš lietuvių kultūros istorijos 3, 173–189.

M a s t o n y t ė M. 1964: Women’s clothing in Žemaitija in the 19th century and the early 20th century. – From the History of Lithuanian Culture 4, 141–155.

M a s t o n y t ė M. 1967: Мастоните М. Литовская народная женская одежда в XIX – начале XX веков (автореферат на соискание ученой степени кандидата филологических наук), Вильнюс.

ME I–IV – K. M ü l e n b a c h a Latvian Language Dictionary. Edited, supplemented, continued by J. E n d z e l ī n s 1–4, Riga: Kultūras fonda izdevums, 1923–1932.

MŽ – Lithuanian-German and German-Lithuanian Dictionary... by C h r i s t i a n G o t t l i e b M i e l c k e... Königsberg: Printed and published by Hartung’s Court Printing House, 1800.

N – Dictionary of the Lithuanian Language, by G. H. F. N e s s e l m a n n, Königsberg: Verlag der Gebrüder Vorrträger, 1851; N with song number – Lithuanian Folk Songs collected,

98

critically edited and translated metrically by G. H. F. Nesselmann, Berlin: Ferd. Dümmlers Verlagsbuchhandlung, 1853.

NdŽ I–V – Niedermann M., Senn A., Brender F., Salys A. Dictionary of the Lithuanian Written Language 1–5, Lithuanian-German section, Heidelberg: Carl Winter Universitätsverlag, 1932–1968.

Niederle L. 1956: Нидерле Л. Славянские древности, Москва: Издательство иностранной литературы.

NS – Lithuanian songs and hymns from northeastern Lithuania, collected by Dr. A. R. Niemi and Rev. A. Sabaliauskas. (Annales Academiae scientiarum Fennicae. Ser. B, 6 (1911). (The numbers indicate the song numbers.)

P – Jurgis Pabrėža (1771–1849), his writings.

Palionis J. 1967: Lietuvių literatūrinė kalba XVI–XVII a., Vilnius: Mintis.

Pfeifer – Etymological Dictionary of German... revised and supplemented by Wolfgang Pfeifer, Berlin: Akademie Verlag, 1993.

Pietsch R. 1982: Fischerleben auf der Kurischen Nehrung, Berlin: Verlag Ulrich Camen.

D. Pošk – Dionizas Poška (1745–1830). Lenkiškai-lietuviškas žodynas ir kiti jo raštai.

PrL XVII – a 17th-century manuscript from East Prussia, by an unknown author, 40 leaves.

R – Lithuanian-German and German-Lithuanian Lexicon... compiled by Philipp Ruhig... Königsberg: printed and published by I. H. Hartung, 1747 (with reference to part I and the page when the word is taken from outside the alphabetical sequence). R with page reference – German-Lithuanian Lexicon.

Sabaliauskas A. 1990: Lietuvių kalbos leksika, Vilnius: Mokslas.

SBG I–V – Dictionary of Belarusian dialects of northwestern Belarus and its borderland 1–5, Minsk: Navuka i tekhnika, 1979–1986.

SD – Dictionarium trium lingvarum... In Stud ios ae Iuventutis, Avctore... Constantino Szyrwid... Vilnae... (SD(1) the first edition of the dictionary (c. 1620), SD(3) the third edition of the dictionary (1642).)

Sehwers J. 1953: Sprachlich-kulturhistorische Untersuchungen vornehmlich über den deutschen Einfluss im Lettischen, Berlin: In Kommission bei Otto Harrassowitz Wiesbaden.

Skardžius P. 1931: Die slavischen Lehnwörter im Alt litauischen. – Tauta ir žodis 7, 1–252.

Skardžius P. 1972: (rec.) Donum Balticum. – Aidai 1.

Sławski F. I–V: Etymological Dictionary of the Polish Language 1–5, Kraków: published by the Society of Polish Language Enthusiasts, 1952–1985.

SP I–II – Syrwids Points of Sermons (Punktkay kazu) 1, 1629; 2, 1644... by Dr. Franz Specht. Göttingen: Vandenhoeck & Ruprecht, 1929.

Sut – Dictionary Lithuanian–Latin–Polish... Compiled with great effort by the true Lithuanian, Dominik Sutkiewicz, a Dominican priest (1848). (Manuscript.)

Š – Lietuvių ir rusų kalbų žodynas. Sudarė D-ras J. Šlapelis, Vilnius, 1921. (Tuo pat ženklu žymimi žodžiai, paimti iš kitų J. Šlapelio (1976–1941) žodynų, ir taip pat gauti iš jo lapeliuose užrašyti žodžiai, jei nenurodytas šaltinis.)

Urbutis V. 1992: Senosios lietuvių kalbos slavizmai. – Baltistica 27(1), 4–15.

Vaižg – Vaizgantas (Juozas Tumas; 1869–1933), his writings.

M. Valanč – Motiejus Valančius (1801–1875), jo raštai.

Vd – Vasaros darbai. – K. Donelaitis. Raštai. Vilnius: Vaga, 1977.

A. Vien – Antanas Vienuolis – Žukauskas (1882–1957), jo raštai.

Volkaitė-Kulikauskienė R. 1970: Drabužiai. – Lietuviai IX–XII amžiais, Vilnius: Mintis, 129–139.

Vries J. de 1971: Nederlands etymologisch Woordenboek. Leiden.

Zinkevicius Z. III: History of the Lithuanian Language 3, Vilnius: Mokslas, 1988.

99

SKIRT NAMES IN THE LITHUANIAN LANGUAGE

Summary

This article deals with the lexical-semantical subgroup of the names of skirts. About 40 of them may be found in Lithuanian (phonetical variants are even more abundant). Half of them are of Lithuanian origin. But they are used quite rarely: even the general name of this article of clothing is a borrowing from Belarussian – sijõnas “skirt”. It is used all over Lithuania. It was first recorded in the 17th century (its variant sejõnas).

The only neutral name of Lithuanian origin is āpsagalas. Other names may be classified either according to the appearance of the garment (klōstinė “pleated skirt”, rainys “motley skirt”) or according to its purpose (apatinė, pavilkinys “underskirt”). Three names of Lithuanian origin appeared in the written language of the 17th century (apatinė, padūkai “underskirt”, marginė “motley skirt”). Seven names are used in Standard Lithuanian, though quite rarely.

There is no common Indo-European name for the mentioned object. Therefore there are so many borrowings in Lithuanian. By the way, the same situation is observed in other languages.

The borrowings are subdivided according to the language they came from. 15 borrowings came from Slavic (sijõnas, andarōkas, šeliopas etc.), 6 from German (kedelỹs, rùikis, šlėbė etc.). Some of them were adopted in Lithuanian rather long ago (sijõnas, kedelỹs – the 17th century), but most of them are seldom used in present-day. They are known only in some Lithuanian dialects or found in some writings. Only two of the borrowings are used in Standard Lithuanian – the general name sijõnas and suknia (suknėlė). But the latter name has only the meaning “dress” in Standard Lithuanian.

100