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How Do Consumers Consume Fashion Online? A Practice-Theoretical Inquiry

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How Do Consumers Consume Fashion Online? A Practice-Theoretical Inquiry

Author: Salonen, Susanna,Närvänen, Elina,Saarijärvi, Hannu
Year: 2014
Source: https://trepo.tuni.fi/bitstream/10024/99498/1/how_do_consumers_fashion.pdf
In e na ional Jou nal o Ma ke ing S udies; Vol. 6, No. 3; 2014
ISSN 1918-719X E-ISSN 1918-7203
Published by Canadian Cen e o Science and Educa ion
87
How Do Consume s Consume Fashion Online?
A P ac ice-Theo e ical Inqui y
Susanna Salonen1, Elina Nä änen1 & Hannu Saa ijä i1
1 School o Managemen , Uni e si y o Tampe e, Tampe e, Finland
Co espondence: Elina Nä änen, School o Managemen , 33014 Uni e si y o Tampe e, Finland. Tel:
358-40-596-8884. E-mail: elina.na anen@u a. i
Recei ed: Feb ua y 24, 2014 Accep ed: Ma ch 13, 2014 Online Published: May 21, 2014
doi:10.5539/ijms. 6n3p87 URL: h p://dx.doi.o g/10.5539/ijms. 6n3p87
Abs ac
Fashion is a majo pa o online consume cul u e. In addi ion o shopping, consume s engage in di e se
p ac ices ela ed o ashion consump ion. The pu pose o his pape is o iden i y and analyze consume s’ online
ashion consump ion p ac ices. The s udy uses a p ac ice– heo e ical amewo k. The empi ical ma e ial consis s
o wo ocus g oup in e iews wi h hi een in o man s and obse a ions o ashion websi es. Fou in e linked
online ashion consump ion p ac ices we e iden i ied: d eaming, expe ise, in o ma ion sea ch and being pa o
a communi y. In addi ion, wel e p ocedu es ela ed o hese p ac ices we e iden i ied. The indings indica e ha
ashion websi e con en should be able o suppo consume s’ online ashion consump ion p ac ices o enable and
enhance alue c ea ion, acili a e pu chase and suppo he consump ion o ashion i ems. Consume s online
ashion consump ion p ac ices play a key ole in engaging consume s on he websi e and in di ec ing hem
owa d a pu chase.
Keywo ds: in e ne , online, consume beha io , ashion websi es, ocus g oups, p ac ice heo y
1. In oduc ion
Consump ion is inc easingly aking place online. No only a e online ansac ions in web s o es acqui ing
conside able momen um, bu consume s also alloca e an inc easing amoun o ime o o he online ac i i ies.
Consume s ead p oduc e iews, ollow blogs and join online communi ies, sha ing hei iews and opinions
wi h o he s (Kozine s, Heme sbe ge , & Schau, 2008; Kozine s, De Valck, Wojnicki, & Wilne , 2010; Kulmala,
Mesi an a, & Tuominen, 2012; Sca abo o & Fische , 2013; Nä änen, Ka as enpää, & Kuusela, 2013). Hence,
shopping is only one consump ion p ac ice among many o he s. Online en i onmen s, also in he con ex o
ashion consump ion, a e becoming e e yday li e, a change which should encou age us o shi ocus on he
a ie y o consume p ac ices conduc ed online.
This a icle a gues ha mo e emphasis should be placed on unde s anding consume s’ online ashion
consump ion p ac ices. A p ac ice can be de ined as a “ ou inised ype o beha iou which consis s o se e al
elemen s, in e connec ed o one ano he : o ms o bodily ac i i ies, o ms o men al ac i i ies, hings and hei
use, a backg ound knowledge in he o m o unde s anding, know-how, s a es o emo ion and mo i a ional
knowledge” (Reckwi z, 2002, p. 249). I has been sugges ed ha engaging in sha ed consump ion p ac ices is
how consume s ac ually c ea e alue and also inno a e oge he (Schau, Muñiz, & O’Guinn, 2009; Kozine s e
al., 2008). Howe e , engaging in di e se consump ion p ac ices may also lead o a pu chase. Tha is why
businesses in he ashion ma ke ing and managemen sec o should unde s and hei cus ome s’ online p ac ices
mo e p o oundly.
Gene a ing unde s anding o online consump ion is a opical issue o bo h schola s and p ac i ione s o
ma ke ing. In he con ex o ashion ma ke ing and managemen , in addi ion o explo ing p ac ices e ol ing
a ound shopping, becoming awa e o he di e se a ie y o p ac ices ela ed o consuming ashion online is
c i ically impo an . I is a necessi y when deepening he unde s anding o ashion, building compe i i e
ad an age in he online en i onmen and p o iding manage ial implica ions o p ac i ione s. I helps companies
pe sonalize and inc ease he ele ance o hei websi es, design hei online p esence as well as o b each he gap
be ween hei websi e design and consume s’ desi es (Siddiqui, O’Malley, McColl, & Bi wis le, 2003). To
add ess hese issues, he pu pose o his esea ch is o iden i y and analyze consume s’ online ashion
consump ion p ac ices.
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Fi s we b ie ly e iew he ele an li e a u e on online en i onmen s and p ac ice heo y. Then we discuss he
da a including ocus g oup in e iews and obse a ions o ashion- ela ed websi es and he da a analysis
conduc ed using a p ac ice– heo e ical amewo k ha has la ely been inc easingly used in s udies o
consump ion (Wa de, 2005; Schau e al., 2009; Magaudda, 2011; Alakä ppä & Val onen, 2011; Nä änen,
Saa ijä i, & Simanainen, 2013). The indings sec ion add esses he online p ac ices iden i ied as ela ing o
ashion consump ion. Discussion and conclusions sec ions may be ound a he end o he s udy.
2. Li e a u e Re iew
2.1 The Online En i onmen
In he con ex o ashion consump ion, online shopping has become an impo an opic o esea ch.
Inco po a ing in e ac i i y and o e ing bo h u ili a ian and hedonic bene i s o he online ashion consume
ha e been no ed o be impo an s a egies (McCo mick & Li e , 2012). In a ecen model o he beha io o he
e-consume , hemes such as consume s’ belie s, a i udes, and in en ions owa d online shopping and online
s o es, as well as s o e image, a mosphe ics, and consume ai s and emo ional ac o s we e conside ed (Dennis,
Me ilees, Jayawa dhena, & W igh , 2009). Ye shopping o ms only a small pa o he consume ’s o e all
online consump ion p ac ices. Simila ly wi h p in media, mo ies, ideos, o e en ood e ailing, online ashion
consump ion is a wide phenomenon ha has many elemen s, including he i ual and ma e ial, comme cial, and
noncomme cial (Magaudda, 2011). The ise o social media and ashion- ela ed consume blogs p o ide
e idence o his e olu ion (Kulmala e al., 2012). Hence, an ex ended iew o he a ie y o ac i i ies consume s
ac ually ca y ou online is me i ed.
The i ual en i onmen is desc ibed as in o ma ion ich, imma e ial, and cons an ly changing (Deneg i-Kno &
Moleswo h, 2010b). These cha ac e is ics may help consume s compensa e o hei inabili y o ul ill hei
ma e ial desi es (Deneg i-Kno &Moleswo h, 2010a). The di e en o ums and i ual spaces such as websi es,
i ual wo lds and games can also c ea e new p ac ices and oppo uni ies o consump ion. Deneg i-Kno and
Moleswo h (2010a) e m hese p ac ices Digi al Vi ual Consump ion (DVG). I is no me ely imagina y, bu
expe ienced in a i ual space. Howe e , he objec s canno be used in he ma e ial eali y and consume s ha e
ewe senso y s imuli a ailable o hem. Acco ding o Kozine s (2002, p. 61), he e m online is p e e able o he
e m i ual, because hese p ac ices a e no less eal han physical p ac ices. The i ual o online space is no a
subs i u e o , bu an ex ension o , ma e ial eali y. Ins ead o pe cei ing he in e ne as a medium, i should be
conside ed as a space whe e consume s spend ime, communica e and do hings (Bu bules, 2004). No all i ual
spaces a e consump ion o ien ed, bu many suppo consump ion p ac ices. Fo ins ance, consume s may b owse
and window-shop wi h less e o han in he ma e ial eali y.
Despi e he digi aliza ion o con empo a y consump ion, he s udy o online p ac ices has emained
unde explo ed, al hough some pionee ing wo k has been published. To a la ge ex en , hese s udies ha e ocused
on online communi ies, o example, om he pe spec i e o alue-c ea ing p ac ices (Schau e al., 2009) o
inno a ion p ac ices (Fülle , Jawecki, & Mühlbache , 2007; Kozine s e al., 2008). An inc easing p opo ion o
he p ac ices ela ed o ashion consump ion has mo ed online. Thus, he p ac ice– heo e ical iewpoin can help
g asp he mani old ways in which consume s consume ashion h ough websi es, blogs, and online communi ies.
2.2 P ac ice Theo y
P ac ice heo y has come o be u ilized in ma ke ing and consume esea ch mos ly wi hin he la ge amewo k
o Consume Cul u e Theo y (A nould & Thompson, 2005). I is a school o hough ha ocuses on he
dynamics be ween consume s, ma ke s and cul u al meanings, connec ing he indi idual o a b oade social
con ex . Consume Cul u e Theo y ocuses no only on he pu chase phase o consump ion, bu akes in o
accoun he con ex ual, expe ien ial and symbolic aspec s o he whole consump ion cycle, o ins ance ega ding
he way consump ion is used o cons uc iden i y o as a eason o join consump ion collec i es. In ela ion o
ashion, CCT esea che s ha e e ealed how consume s exp ess hemsel es and nego ia e he p e ailing
sociocul u al discou ses a ailable o hem (Thompson & Hay ko, 1997; Mu ay, 2002). P ac ice heo y hus
ollows in his adi ion o explaining and unde s anding consump ion as symbolic ac ion (Reckwi z, 2002;
Gab ielli, Bachi, & Codeluppi, 2013; Boulai e & Co a, 2013).
P ac ice heo y de ines p ac ices as ou ine ways o doing hings, mo ing objec s, ela ing o objec s, and
desc ibing and unde s anding he wo ld (Reckwi z, 2002, p. 250; Sho e & Pan za , 2005, p. 44). A p ac ice
con ains se e al elemen s ha a e in e connec ed, such as bodily mo emen s, men al ac i i ies, hings and hei
use, know-how, emo ions and mo i a ional knowledge (Reckwi z, 2002, p. 249). P ac ice heo y sees he wo ld
as consis ing o p ac ices ha indi idual people (p ac i ione s) ca y and pe o m. P ac ices a e coo dina ed
en i ies, bu hey equi e ac i e ca ie s o sus ain hem (Wa de, 2005, p. 134; Sho e & Panza , 2005, p. 49).
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Indi idual consume s hus become unique en i ies whe e di e en p ac ices in e sec . The elemen s o a single
p ac ice depend on whe e i is enac ed and by whom. In a s uc u ed way, p ac ices c ea e alue by making
ac i i ies epea able pa e ns (Schau e al., 2009). When he consume success ully enac s a p ac ice and
p oduces alue, i is likely ha hey will also expand hei epe oi e o p ac ices ( an Doo n e al., 2010).
P ac ices also always con ain a seed o change, because hei elemen s may be a ied and indi idual consume s
enac hem di e en ly (Wa de, 2005; Sho e & Pan za , 2005).
Acco ding o p ac ice heo y, p ac ices a e p ocesses o in eg a ion, he elemen s o which a e commonly called
unde s andings, p ocedu es and engagemen s (Scha zki, 1996; Wa de, 2005; Schau e al., 2009). The ou h
elemen ha is some imes neglec ed bu always implici ly pa o p ac ice– heo e ical accoun s is ha o objec s.
Fi s , unde s andings a e sha ed knowledge ega ding he way a p ac ice is enac ed, consis ing o in o ma ion,
know-how and unde s anding o no ms and ules as well as cul u al meanings (Reckwi z, 2002). The second
elemen o a p ac ice is ha o p ocedu e. I consis s o speci ic “doings and sayings” guided by he p io
elemen o unde s anding. Schau e al. (2009, p. 34) iden i y se e al p ocedu es ela ed o b and use such as
imp o ing and cus omizing he p oduc . In a i ual con ex , p ocedu es a e less obse able han physical ac ions,
because hey consis o w i ing messages and pos ing pic u es, o ins ance. Engagemen p o ides he hi d
elemen o a p ac ice. I consis s o emo ions and mo i a ional knowledge, goals and moods ha gi e he ac ion
meaning and ie i o a ce ain con ex . Al hough p ac ices a e ou inized ac i i ies, hey always en ail some
pu pose. Fo ins ance in he con ex o ashion, he unde s anding o how o d ess in a ce ain s yle and acco ding
o ce ain no ms, he speci ic p ocedu es ela ed o d essing in ha way as well as he desi es and goals such as
pu sui o a ce ain iden i y a e in e connec ed and in luence how he p ac ice is enac ed. O en pa icipa ing in a
p ac ice also c ea es new desi es (Wa de, 2005; Schau e al., 2009). Finally, objec s a e ma e ial elemen s ela ed
o p ac ices. They help he consume enac he p ac ice and, o ins ance, o be classi ied as pa o a ce ain
g oup o ou side o i (Hol , 1995). New p ac ices inspi e needs o new objec s o complemen hem. Nex , we
explain how he s udy was conduc ed in de ail.
3. Me hodology
3.1 Da a Gene a ion
The main da a gene a ion me hod o he s udy was ocus g oup in e iews. The aim was o achie e an
unde s anding o wha consume s do on ashion- ela ed websi es and why. Focus g oup in e iews a e si ua ed in
be ween a s uc u ed in e iew and pa icipan obse a ion. They encou age di e en pe spec i es and opinions
on he subjec ma e . The aim was o c ea e a elaxed a mosphe e in which o conduc an in o mal discussion.
The esea che s called on hei pe sonal con ac s o selec he i s g oup o in e iewees, and hen applied a
snowballing echnique o ind mo e pa icipan s. An en husiasm o ashion we e used as a selec ion c i e ion.
Two ocus g oups we e assembled in he sp ing o 2011; one wi h six membe s, he o he wi h se en. The ocus
g oup pa icipan s knew each o he be o ehand, which made he discussion open and ich. Some pa icipan s
wo ked in ashion e ailing as pa - ime salespeople and some o hem had a ashion blog. None o hem had a
ashion-o ien ed educa ion. A de ailed lis o he pa icipan s is p esen ed in Table 1.
Table 1. Focus g oup in o man s
Focus g oup Name Gende Age
1 Ma i Female 23
1 Lau a Female 21
1 Jaana Female 23
1 Jenna Female 26
1 Sanna Female 24
1 Tiia Female 22
2 Toni Male 24
2 Ve onika Female 25
2 Hanna Female 25
2 Minna Female 27
2 Ma ika Female 23
2 Leena Female 28
2 Anna Female 26
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The sizes o he ocus g oups we e delibe a ely es ic ed o ensu e ha each pa icipan ’s opinions would be
hea d. The pa icipan s’ age anged om 21 o 28 yea s old and he e we e wel e women and one man. The
ocus g oups we e gi en ins uc ions o alk abou he subjec as b oadly as possible and encou aged o exp ess
any opinions and pe cep ions ha hey had. A esea che ac ed as acili a o , gi ing he pa icipan s only he
b oad opics o be discussed. The du a ion o he in e iews was 55 minu es and 1 hou 45 minu es espec i ely
and hey we e eco ded and ansc ibed o analysis (Figu e 1).
Figu e 1. The esea ch p ocess
The in o ma ion gained om he ocus g oups was hen suppo ed by obse ing he ashion websi es ha we e
men ioned by he ocus g oup pa icipan s. The combina ion o hese me hods enabled us o explo e he nuances
o consump ion p ac ices, which is conside ed as impo an in p ac ice heo e ical inqui y (Boulai e & Co a,
2013). Because he consump ion p ac ices ook place in he online en i onmen , obse ing he websi es
complemen ed ocus g oups which concen a ed mo e on how consume s hemsel es e lec ed upon hei
p ac ices. Obse ing websi es included b inging o h he con en and consume in e ac ions ela ed o he ways
in which consump ion p ac ices we e ma e ialized online. All o he websi es men ioned in he ocus g oups we e
i s lis ed and hen hose ha we e mos o en men ioned and which had he mos ac i e con en we e selec ed.
The websi es we e obse ed in June and July 2011, enabling he colla ing o 5 120 commen s. They we e ead
selec i ely and g ouped a he da a gene a ion phase. The commen s b oadly mi o ed he issues aised in he
ocus g oup discussions.
3.2 Da a Analysis
The da a analysis was based on p ac ice heo y and s anda d quali a i e esea ch p ocedu es (e.g., Spiggle, 1994).
I s a ed by eading ca e ully he ansc ibed ocus g oup da a and iden i ying he cen al ph ases and key wo ds.
Each ph ase was hen labeled wi h one o mo e meanings ha we e conside ed o bes cha ac e ize i . This made
i possible o o ganize he da a in a meaning ul way. In he nex phase, he ph ases we e g ouped oge he in o
hemes ha became iden i ied as 12 p ocedu es ha consume s enac online. Nex , simila hemes we e
connec ed and ou p ac ices eme ged as a esul . These p ac ices we e hen analyzed h ough ocusing on he
unde s andings and emo ional engagemen s in ol ed in hem. A he inal s age, he analysis mo ed back om
he b oad le el o p ac ices o ensu e ha he iden i ied p ocedu es we e co ec ly g ouped and ha he p ac ices
we e accu a ely desc ibed and labeled. The websi e obse a ion da a was g ouped alongside he ocus g oup da a
h oughou he analysis p ocess wi h he objec i e o suppo and deepen he indings and hei in e p e a ion.
4. Findings
The da a analysis iden i ied ou p ac ices ha encapsula e p ocedu es, unde s andings and emo ional
engagemen s. The ou p ac ices we e d eaming, expe ise, in o ma ion sea ch, and being pa o a communi y.
As Reckwi z a gued (2002), p ac ices a e o en in e connec ed, which was also he case wi h hese ou examples.
Howe e , hey can be discussed sepa a ely and as a whole, and hey manage o cap u e he cen al cha ac e is ics
o online ashion consump ion p ac ices. These p ac ices a e discussed in mo e de ail below.
4.1 D eaming
The p ac ice o d eaming was cen al o how consume s cons uc ed hei iden i y and communica ed i o o he s
(Schau & Gilly, 2003; see also Jiang & Co a, 2012). The consume s engaged in bo h an asizing abou li es yles
and hings ha hey conside ed accessible as well as hose hey conside ed ou o hei each, a leas o he
o eseeable u u e. P ocedu es ela ed o d eaming included b owsing images whe e he unde lying emo ional
engagemen s we e ela ed o elaxa ion, aes he ic pleasu e and becoming inspi ed.
Many hou s may pass and I don’ e en no ice i when I’m b owsing online ashion si es, looking a he images
and e iews. - Anna
Besides inding in o ma ion h ough b owsing he images, he consume s el ha hey we e anspo ed in o a
d eam wo ld. Thus, images we e conside ed a mo e impo an han he ex ha se ed only o suppo he
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isual con en . Finding a good sou ce o images when b owsing new websi es gene a ed en husiasm. Consume s
also engaged in he p ocedu e o imi a ing, whe e hey collec ed images and s o ed hem o hei compu e in
o de o expe imen and plan how hey could inco po a e ideas in o hei own s yle.
I ha e a couple o celeb i ies whose s yles I like e y much, so I some imes jus google hei pho os and look o
ideas. -Toni
The unde lying unde s andings ela ed o imi a ing included he need o modi y o adap he ideas in di e en
ways in o de o show indi iduali y. Consume s did no wan o di ec ly copy wha hey saw, because ha was
conside ed o demons a e a lack o as e o pe sonali y. Enabled by he web en i onmen , i was easy o play
wi h he s yles, which was conside ed as a sa e, en e aining and in o ma i e way o ind ou whe he i was
some hing ha he consume wan ed o implemen h ough pu chase. The web en i onmen also o e s help ul
guidance o pu chasing, such as h ough hype links and communi ies. Fashion blogge s ep esen a sou ce o
in o ma ion o hei audience h ough p esen ing hei unique pe sonal s yle by sha ing “ou i s o he day” o
spo ing ends (Kulmala e al., 2012). Howe e , i he consume could no imi a e he s yle (e.g., due o some
elemen s o an ou i being una ailable), hey would also become us a ed:
I is us a ing, i he e a e some p oduc s ha people p aise and hen you canno o de hem o deli e y o
Finland. Bu hen I jus y o ind some hing simila . - Lau a
The emo ional engagemen s ela ed o imi a ing included he need o play and expe imen , which also ein o ced
he pe cei ed expe ise o he consume and hei connec ion wi h hose consume s wi h a highe s a us in he
online communi ies and blogs. The hi d p ocedu e ela ed o d eaming was an asizing abou becoming a
p o essional. In he con ex o ou da a, his mean ha consume s aspi ed o p oduc s and o he esou ces ela ed
o being a p o essional in he ashion indus y o in he online ashion wo ld. This was o en ealized h ough
mo e ac i e pa icipa ion in commen ing on he blogs o showing one’s own expe ise.
My d eam p o ession would be a ashion blogge . Like [when] you could ac ually ha e he ime o do i p ope ly
and e en ge paid o i . I canno imagine any hing be e han ha . - Ma ika
Thus, he consume s engaged in compe ing o s a us h ough acqui ing esou ces and in es ing hem in
de eloping hei skills, compe ences and ools.
4.2 Expe ise
The p ac ice o expe ise e e s o ex ensi e know-how, he unde s anding o a sense o s yle, he use o
app op ia e p oduc s and how o main ain hem. Engaging in his p ac ice ein o ced he consume s’ sense o
being supe io o he a e age consume in ela ion o hei expe ise on ashion. P ocedu es included upg ading
s a us and sel -wo h enac ed h ough pu chasing and owning app op ia e p oduc s, which was eadily epo ed
in he websi es obse ed. Consume s also epo ed ha hey el p oud jus knowing ha hey owned he
p oduc s ha we e p aised by he blogge s hey admi ed. Ou indings also suppo ea lie esea ch on how
consume s show hei s a us h ough ecommending p oduc s and uses o o he consume s on online o ums
(Schau & Gilly, 2003; Schau e al., 2009).
You no ice ha you a e be e in o med han he a e age consume when occasionally you encoun e some
“new” ips o p oduc s ha you ha e al eady known abou o a long ime. -Ve onika
Consume s also enjoy es ing hei expe ise play ully, such as by pa icipa ing in con es s and asks whe e hey
ha e o es ablish hei sense o s yle and ge eedback on i .
Ano he p ocedu e ela ed o expe ise is ha o amilia i y wi h in o ma ion sou ces. As a gued by Kozine s e
al. (2008, p. 349), online communi ies o in e es ep esen a ich in o ma ion sou ce o any opic. In ou da a,
consume s engaged in showing hei expe ise h ough being amilia wi h he mos popula blogge s and isi ing
he websi es ha we e conside ed bes . Being selec i e and lea ning o dis il good in o ma ion om bad hen
became one o he key compe ences o consume s. This compe ence was also g adually de eloped o e ime as
people engaged o a g ea e ex en in consuming ashion online:
Compa ed o wha I knew a couple o yea s ago, I ha e managed o imp o e my sou ces o in o ma ion. And i is
pa o he whole eeling ha you know he op si es ha a e no amilia o jus anybody. - Toni
In ano he s udy abou online communi ies de o ed o en i onmen ally- iendly ashion, i was no ed ha he
consume s’ expe ience and compe ence de eloped o e ime and ha could be seen in he na u e o hei
discussions (Ce ellon & We ne el , 2012). Ou indings hence p o ide suppo o he no ion ha consume s’
online ashion consump ion is a long- e m pu sui o app op ia e knowledge and compe ence. I is no jus
some hing hey do occasionally and wi h no sense o pu pose.

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The hi d p ocedu e ela ed o expe ise is ha o ashion do-i -you sel (DIY) p ojec s. Consume s we e mos
g a e ul o websi e con en ha o e ed conc e e s ep-by-s ep guidelines, such as hose on d essing o make-up.
In he backg ound o DIY p ojec s he e was he unde s anding ha gene al ashion know-how can somehow be
adap ed o achie ing pe sonal goals and skills (see also Gab ielli e al., 2012). Consume s would also e u n o
si es ha hey ound help ul. Consume s we e also in e es ed in ways o ci cula e, modi y and ex end he use o
hei p oduc s.
Simila o he p ac ice o d eaming, he p ac ice o expe ise was also cha ac e ized by aspi a ions o become
mo e p o essional in ways ha included using mo e ad anced ma e ials, echniques o ools. The web
en i onmen suppo ed his p ac ice because consume s could ind ac ual p o essionals sha ing hei ips and
p oduc ecommenda ions. The sense o being a p o essional was also enhanced h ough oppo uni ies o
pa icipa e in c ea ing new websi e con en o being a membe o a use panel.
I ha e pa icipa ed in a couple o use panels and e en hough I know ha I’m no he only pa icipan , i is s ill
nice o ecei e he emails o panel membe s. You eel ha you a e ac ually pa o a ashion websi e’s designe
eam. - Lau a
Fo consume s, esponding o websi e designe s’ ques ions did no equi e a lo o esou ces and some o hem
would ha e been in e es ed in pa icipa ing mo e ac i ely.
4.3 In o ma ion Sea ch
The p ac ice o in o ma ion sea ch is no su p ising, conside ing he dominan ole o he In e ne as an
in o ma ion sou ce oday. Howe e , ou indings illus a e he sys ema ic and p o ound na u e o he in o ma ion
sea ch unde aken by consume s. Fashion p oduc s may easily be associa ed wi h consume s’ spon aneous
pu chasing beha io , bu ou in o man s’ pu chasing p ocess was o en p eceded by a long p ocess o d eaming
and in o ma ion sea ch.
Nowadays when I see a comme cial o hea abou a p oduc , I will i s go and google o e iews on o ums and
blogs and see ideo e iews on You ube. -Ma i
The consume s epo ed ha hey would only e y a ely buy p oduc s ha hey had ne e hea d o . Sea ching
o in o ma ion has been a gued o ep esen imagined consump ion in a i ual space (Deneg i-Kno &
Moleswo h, 2010). Howe e , he mo e delibe a i e na u e o he pu chasing does no necessa ily ansla e in o
ewe pu chases, and may e en mean mo e commi men and loyal y.
P ocedu es ela ed o his p ac ice included ecommending, which consis ed bo h o eading e iews and w i ing
hem. I was clea ly e iden ha consume s seek in o ma ion mo e om hei pee s ia blogs, YouTube o social
media, han hey do om companies’ websi es. The easons o his we e no only he pe cei ed us wo hiness
o in o ma ion, bu also he pe cei ed sca ci y o in o ma ion on company websi es compa ed o o he sou ces.
Company websi es also o en lack an impo an aspec o in o ma ion: a compa ison o di e en p oduc s. The
a ailabili y o in o ma ion, images, he usabili y o he websi e, and ge ing he pu chasing in o ma ion om he
same si e was o en he mos e ec i e ac o . Ano he p ocedu e ela ed o in o ma ion sea ch is looking o ips
o use (see also Kulmala e al., 2012). Thus, he sea ch o in o ma ion does no end a he poin -o -pu chase bu
ins ead consume s y o os e hei sense o sa is ac ion and alue h oughou he consump ion cycle.
P olonging he du a ion o he p oduc was also ela ed o his aspec (Schau e al., 2009).
I ha e one pale e o eye shadow ha is my a o i e and i has en di e en colo s, bu a he beginning I no iced
I was using only ou colo s and always in he same way. Bu hen I looked o ips online and guidance o
doing make-up, so I go a lo o new ideas. - Hanna
Finally, ano he p ocedu e ela ed o in o ma ion sea ch was ha o p oduc e iews. Consume s would
au oma ically look o p oduc e iews ela ing o p oduc s ha in e es ed hem. This was a highly ou inized
p ocedu e ha was g ounded in an unde s anding o he lack o us in ad e ising and he desi e o a oid
unwise pu chases. Many websi es encou age consume s o w i e pos -pu chase e iews by o e ing discoun s o
o he bene i s agains u he pu chases. Fülle e al. (2007) no ed ha w i ing p oduc e iews is ano he
impo an pa o inno a ion.
4.4 Being Pa o a Communi y
The p ac ice o being pa o a communi y en ailed de eloping he emo ional engagemen o become pa o he
g oup. Magaudda (2011) ound a desi e o c ea e mo e pe sonal ela ionships wi h a is s in a s udy conduc ed
wi hin a communi y o music lo e s. Ou indings p o ide a complemen a y iew on his. Consume s hough
ha he in o ma ion was mo e eliable and he p ac ices we e conside ed be e he be e hey knew he
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in o ma ion sou ce. The consume s we e in e es ed no only in ashion, bu also in he pe sonal li es o popula
in luence s. In o he wo ds, hey o med pa asocial ela ionships wi h hem.
I eel as hough hey we e my bes iends, e en hough hey do no e en know me. -Hanna
This inding may p o ide suppo o he a gumen ha i is easie o consume s o ela e o people a he han
aceless company websi es. In addi ion, he p ocedu e o c ea ing companionship was appa en in ou da a.
Consume s ind i libe a ing and un o be wi h people who unde s and hei en husiasm and sha e hei eelings
abou ashion (Ce ellon & We ne el 2012). The online wo ld o e s a communi y o like-minded o he s wi h
whom consume s can sha e p ac ices and hough s (Hol , 1995).
I is so nice o ead and look a o he s’ iews, when hey a e simila ly en husias ic abou i , so you will no be
ashamed o eel supe icial. - Anna
Fo me i is like a second g oup o iends, because e y ew o my eal iends a e as up o da e and in o med
abou hese issues, so i is nice o ask and ead o he s’ commen s online. - Toni
Toni’s commen illus a es ha consume s do no eel ha he online wo ld p o ides hem wi h “ eal iendships”,
because in e ac ion is es ic ed o he a ea o in e es .
Table 2. Online ashion consump ion p ac ices and p ocedu es
P ac ice P ocedu es
D eaming
Building iden i y and a desi able li es yle
- B owsing images
- Imi a ing
- Fan asizing abou becoming a p o essional
Expe ise
De eloping a eeling o expe ise h ough app op ia e skills,
knowledge and compe ence.
- Upg ading s a us and sel -wo h
- Familia i y wi h in o ma ion sou ces
- DIY p ojec s
- Aspi ing o be mo e p o essional
In o ma ion sea ch
Looking o and gene a ing he mos eliable in o ma ion a ailable
- Recommending
- Looking o usage ips
- P oduc e iews
Being pa o a communi y
Achie ing a sense o belonging o a communi y
- Ge ing o know he in o ma ion sou ce pe sonally
- C ea ing companionship and communi y
5. Discussion
The pu pose o his s udy was o iden i y and analyze consume s’ online ashion consump ion p ac ices. Thus,
he ocus was mo ed om shopping owa d he di e si y o consump ion p ac ices conduc ed online. A da a se
was gene a ed h ough a combina ion o ocus g oup in e iews and websi e analysis. As he ocus o he s udy
was on consume s’ online p ac ices, a amewo k om p ac ice heo y was employed esul ing in he
iden i ica ion o ou p ac ices. These we e d eaming, expe ise, in o ma ion sea ch, and being pa o a
communi y. These p ac ices we e u he di ided in o 12 p ocedu es.
The indings con ibu e i s by building a p ac ice– heo e ical pe spec i e on online ashion consump ion. Using
p ac ice heo y enables a uly consume -cen ic iew o how ashion is consumed online and wha meanings
consume s asc ibe o hei ac s o consump ion. Second, he s udy unde lines he impo ance o ocusing on he
online p ac ices o indi idual consume s, because p e ious esea ch has ocused mainly on collec i e p ac ices in
online communi ies. I is impo an o no e ha ou indings also illus a e ha online ashion consump ion
should no be conside ed me ely he hedonis ic pu sui o en e ainmen , as i can in ac be an in ensi e,
ewa ding and ime-consuming pa o building an iden i y. Thi dly, consump ion is inc easingly aking place
wi hin he online en i onmen . Consequen ly, i is impo an o unde s and ha online p ac ices also pe o m an
inc easingly impo an unc ion in ashion consump ion. Ou indings hus shi a en ion om me e online
shopping ansac ions o mo e di e se online consump ion p ac ices.
6. Manage ial Implica ions
As companies in he ashion indus y inc easingly ex end hei p esence om he o line o he online
en i onmen , hey come unde p essu e o enew hei compe i i e ad an age. Companies mus build compe i i e
online s a egies and choose whe he o concen a e on low p ice, wide p oduc a ie y, se ice, o apid deli e y.
Mo eo e , os e ing in e ac ion and dialogue wi h cus ome s is a gene al demand in oday’s compe i i e
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landscape. In hese e o s, i is o u mos impo ance o unde s and he p ac ices o consume s as hey consume
ashion online.
Table 3 p esen s he key manage ial implica ions o he indings o his s udy. The ou iden i ied p ac ices
unco e how consume s consume ashion online and hus will help i ms design a ac i e online en i onmen s
ha acili a e ha consump ion. Fo example, unde s anding he ole o d eaming would help i ms p o ide
cus ome s wi h an oppo uni y o co-c ea e and expe imen wi h a ious ashion s yles, and ashion i ms migh
in i e cus ome s o send hei own ske ches o designs o be a ed by hei pee s o expe s. Since ashion
blogge s a e seen as opinion leade s, companies migh o ins ance in i e hem o discuss ashion- ela ed opics
on hei websi es. As a esul , companies a e able o ede ine hei ole as p o ide s o ashion goods o
suppo ing consume s’ ashion- ela ed p ac ices.
Table 3. Sugges ions o manage s
P ac ice Sugges ions o manage s
D eaming - P o ide cus ome s wi h a mul i ude o images illus a ing di e en s yles and ends
- P o ide cus ome s wi h he oppo uni y o co-c ea e and expe imen wi h a ious ashion
s yles as pa o he decision-making p ocess
- In i e consume s o send hei own ske ches o designs o o he s o a e
- Use a numbe o pho os as an impo an elemen o he ashion- ela ed online en i onmen
Expe ise - O e bo h basic and ad anced ashion guidelines o suppo consume s’ iden i y building
- Discuss and analyze con empo a y ashion s yles
- Compa e di e en s yles o celeb i ies, o example
- In i e consume s o send hei own ske ches o designs o o he s o a e
In o ma ion sea ch - P o ide consume s a con enien access o ele an ashion- ela ed in o ma ion by
summa izing ele an in o ma ion sou ces
- C ea e a consume -led communi y ha helps o he consume s in a ying issues ela ed o
ashion
Being pa o a communi y - C ea e an online en i onmen ha can be used as a pla o m o discuss and sha e
expe iences wi h o he consume s and iends
- In i e blogge s o discuss ashion- ela ed opics
- Engage h ough social media
- Ins iga e compe i ions among he membe s o he communi y
7. Conclusion
The main objec i e o he s udy was no o p o ide gene alizable esul s, bu o conduc a p ac ice– heo e ical
inqui y o unco e he p ac ices h ough which ashion consump ion akes place online. Howe e , gi en he
limi ed se o da a, cau ion should be applied when applying he indings. I is also impo an o no e ha due o
he con ex o online ashion consump ion, he in o man s we e mainly young women. Al hough online ashion
consump ion is hea ily asymme ic in e ms o age g oups and gende , explo ing his phenomenon among
a ying consume g oups could en ich he s udy indings, and also se e as an in e es ing u u e esea ch opic.
Fu he mo e, measu ing how hese p ac ices a e linked wi h impo an ma ke ing measu es such as cus ome
sa is ac ion o epu chase in en ions would u he enhance unde s anding o online ashion consump ion.
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