Repenning, Alica
A icle — Published Ve sion
Speeding up, slowing down, losing g ip: On digi al media
me onomes and imespace ic ion in he pla o mised
empo ali ies o ashion design
En i onmen and Planning A: Economy and Space
P o ided in Coope a ion wi h:
Leibniz Ins i u e o Resea ch on Socie y and Space (IRS)
Sugges ed Ci a ion: Repenning, Alica (2024) : Speeding up, slowing down, losing g ip: On digi al
media me onomes and imespace ic ion in he pla o mised empo ali ies o ashion design,
En i onmen and Planning A: Economy and Space, ISSN 1472-3409, SAGE Publica ions, London, Vol.
56, Iss. 5, pp. 1503-1520,
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AEconomy and Space
Speeding up, slowing down,
losing g ip: On digi al media
me onomes and imespace
ic ion in he pla o mised
empo ali ies o ashion design
Alica Repenning
Economy and Ci il Socie y, Leibniz Ins i u e o Resea ch on Socie y and Space, E kne , Ge many
Applied Economic Geog aphy, Humbold Uni e si ä zu Be lin, Be lin, Ge many
Abs ac
The body o li e a u e add essing pla o m capi alism, pla o m labou and pla o m u banism pain s a compelling
pic u e o how digi al pla o ms shape he dynamics o bo h leisu e and labou wi hin he amewo k o he
pla o m’s model o ex ac ing alue. Howe e , his li e a u e a ely cap u es how he global imespaces o
digi al pla o ms a e ansla ed in pla o m-media ed ields o wo k and which ic ions occu in his p ocess.
The e o e, he con as s be ween he hy hms o he pla o m p omp ing use s owa ds ins an aneous da a
p oduc ion and he p oduc ion capabili ies o he humans, whose daily (wo k) li e has become dependen on
such pla o ms, emain la gely unexplo ed. In his a icle, I de elop he lens o imespace ic ion, by in eg a ing
he exis ing esea ch on pla o m labou wi h a imespace pe spec i e. The aim is o p esen a amewo k
ha e eals he con as ing ela ionship be ween he con la ing hy hms o pla o m capi alism and pla o m-
media ed labou . The mechanisms a e explo ed u ilising an e hnog aphic case s udy o he digi al labou o
independen ashion designe s on Ins ag am. The p oposed pe spec i e on imespace ic ion demons a es
ha mobile apps unc ion as me onomes, nudging he imespaces o daily (wo k) li e. Timespaces a e hus
nego ia ed in he poly hy hmic encoun e s o daily li e, whe e designe s challenge he hy hms o he pla o m
o accele a e hei p ac ices o ollow he imposed pace. A imespace ic ion pe spec i e he e o e sees
beyond he smoo h ope a ing mechanisms o he pla o m economy ha p omise eal- ime da a, lexibili y and
e iciency, e ealing he hidden s uggles o synch onisa ion (speeding up), de-synch onisa ion (slowing down)
and losing g ip (going i al).
Keywo ds
Digi al imescapes, pla o m capi alism, pla o m labou , accele a ion, imespace ic ion, digi al e hnog aphy
Co esponding au ho :
Alica Repenning, Economy and Ci il Socie y, Leibniz Ins i u e o Resea ch on Socie y and Space, Flakens aße 29-31,
E kne 15537, Ge many.
Email: [email p o ec ed]
1231691EPN0010.1177/0308518X241231691EPA: Economy and SpaceRepenning
esea ch-a icle2024
O iginal A icle
1504 EPA: Economy and Space 56(5)
In oduc ion: A empo al iew o ic ion in pla o m capi alism
Ins ag am ga e us such a speed ha we could no ca ch up. . .. I was no only chaos, bu i was also a
ca ousel whe e you could no ge ou anymo e. (Designe 08)
The quo a ion abo e is aken om an in e iew wi h a Be lin-based independen ashion designe
who engages in he digi al labou o pos ing and obse ing con en on Ins ag am o build up he inde-
penden ashion b and. The ashion en ep eneu s, whose wo k has been examined o his s udy,
wo k be ween ma e ial and echnical a angemen s, be ween hap ic p oduc s and digi al ep esen a-
ions o hei ga men s, be ween Ins ag am windows and shop windows and be ween online o de s
and he bodily expe ience o hei clo hes. In he poly hy hmic imespaces o hei daily li e, Ins ag am
unc ions as a digi al media me onome ha co-di ec s he hy hms o digi al engagemen and co-
shapes hei empo ali ies o wo k. In he quo e abo e, he designe desc ibes ha he imposed pace
o Ins ag am is expe ienced as s anding in con as o he empo-spa ial possibili ies o he daily wo k
li e. To explo e his ela ionship u he , I lay ou a pe spec i e on imespace ic ion ha aims o
illumina e he empo al nego ia ions among he imespace o digi al capi alism and i s ela ed o ms
o digi al labou .
In he eme ging esea ch ield o c i ical pla o m s udies, digi al media pla o ms such as
Ins ag am, TikTok, YouTube and Twi e ha e been no ed as examples o in luen ial in o ma ion and
communica ion echnology ha al e economic and social in e ac ions. In his con ex , his a icle
de ines digi al media pla o ms such as Ins ag am as ‘p og ammable digi al in as uc u es con olled
by pla o m ope a o s who, as non-neu al in e media ies, cu a e he in e ac ions o independen com-
plemen o s and use s’ ( an Dijck, 2013: 29). Pla o m ope a o s encou age use engagemen and
con en p oduc ion as a o m o digi al labou o he pu pose o mone ising use da a (E ans and
Gawe , 2016; S nicek, 2021). The e o e, digi al pla o m companies ha e spu ed no el o ms o
digi al labou , such as blogge s and in luence s (B ydges and Sjöholm, 2019; Caplan and Gillespie,
2020; Gla , 2022) and added o ms o digi al labou o exis ing ields o wo k. Acco dingly, he wo k
en i onmen o ashion and music has become media ed by digi al pla o ms (H acs e al., 2013;
H acs and Leslie, 2014; Ja e , 2022; Kneese and Palm, 2020).
Mo e p ecisely, his esea ch unde sco es he pla o ms’ ole as powe ul ime-s uc u ing de ices
(Ki chin e al., 2017; Souza e Sil a and Go don, 2013; S aughan and Bissell, 2022; Wells e al.,
2021), emphasising ha digi al media pla o ms ‘ope a e as pla o m economies, wi h peoples’ space-
ime mo emen s being commodi ied’ (Ki chin, 2019: 788). The empo ali ies o digi al media pla -
o ms a e desc ibed as eal- ime media, cha ac e ised by p esen ing ‘ esh, dynamic o con inuously
p ocessed con en ’ ha con ibu es o pe cep ions o he p esen (Wel e ede e al., 2014: 126). Agains
he backg ound unde s anding o he digi al media company’s hunge o da a, his mechanism has
ampli ied o he poin whe e he wo ke s p oduce mo e and mo e con en , and he pla o m collec s
mo e da a abou e e -mo e si ua ions in e e -sho e empo al ins ances, leading o he da a ica ion o
he e e yday (Ba ns, 2019; an Dijck, 2013; Zulli, 2018). S essing he conjunc u al and asymme i-
cal ole o digi al pla o m companies, pla o ms a e ‘simul aneously embedded and dis-embedded
om he space- imes hey media e’ (G aham, 2020: 454). On he one hand, his si ua ion is conduci e
o he powe o he pla o m co po a ions, ende ing hem unaccoun able because pla o ms ex ac
da a and con ol labou by ope a ing a a di e en spa ial scale han he wo ke s. On he o he hand,
hese conjunc u al geog aphies, ‘ ende pla o ms ulne able. The epheme al na u e o pla o ms
means we can a oid hem, ci cum en hem and eplica e hem’ (G aham, 2020: 453). In-be ween he
con as ing poles o pla o m-domina ion and use - esis ance, a pe spec i e on he imespace ic ion
o pla o m capi alism o eg ounds he way empo-spa iali ies a e cons an ly nego ia ed in daily li e,
ep esen ing a cons an s uggle be ween he pla o m and he use /wo ke . This pe spec i e adds
u he dep h o ou unde s anding o how he conjunc u al geog aphies o pla o m capi alism a e
o med (and ough o e ).
Repenning 1505
Despi e an inc easing numbe o c i ical pe spec i es on digi al labou (e.g. Kneese and Palm,
2020; an Doo n, 2017) and he spa iali y o digi al labou (e.g. Souza e Sil a and Go don, 2013;
Wells e al., 2021), o da e, a empo al pe spec i e on digi al pla o ms is no p ominen in he aca-
demic deba e. In oducing a dedica ed empo al pe spec i e, he aim o his a icle is o look behind
he scenes o hese always-upda ed pla o m in e aces, while examining he imespace con as
be ween he accele a ing, and ins an aneous hy hms o digi al media pla o ms and he capaci y o
he humans, whose daily (wo k) li es ha e become dependen on such apps. Agains his backg ound,
his a icle add esses his gap in esea ch, answe ing he esea ch ques ion, how he global imespaces
o digi al (media) pla o ms a e ansla ed in o he daily social eali ies o pla o m-media ed ields o
wo k, and which empo al ic ions occu in his p ocess. Empi ically, I examine how independen
ashion designe s, whose wo kspaces a e enmeshed in he accele a ed imespaces o he digi al media
pla o m Ins ag am make and dis up he hy hms o pla o m capi alism and how ime-space ic ion
occu s. The e o e, his pape examines he empo ali ies o pla o m wo k, while examining digi al
media pla o ms as powe ul ime-s uc u ing de ices o pla o m-media ed labou .
To answe he esea ch ques ion, his a icle makes wo con ibu ions. Fi s , i de elops a pe spec-
i e on imespace ic ion. The pe spec i e builds on Tsing’s (2005) pe spec i e on ic ion and May
and Th i ’s (2001) and Le eb e’s (2004) pe spec i es on imespace and hy hms. Unde he no ion
o imespace ic ion, I connec no ions o ins an aneous ime and eal- ime wi h he expe iences o
pla o m wo ke s.
Secondly, his pape con ibu es o cu en academic deba es by e ealing he mechanisms o
imespace ic ion in an empi ical case s udy. This esea ch elies on digi al e hnog aphic me hods. A
i s co e, i d aws om ga he ing and analysing 21 semi-s uc u ed in e iews wi h independen ash-
ion designe s in Be lin and ela ed expe s. Addi ionally, ield no es and 647 sc eensho s we e col-
lec ed du ing o line and online obse a ions. An induc i e quali a i e con en analysis was applied o
he ma e ial.
Examining he digi al wo k o con en p oduc ion and consump ion in independen ashion design
allows o he disclosu e o he nego ia ion o empo al hy hms be ween he pla o m, Ins ag am and
he use , and he labou s uggles connec ed o his. Beyond he echnical possibili ies, he imespaces
o pla o m capi alism a e examined agains he conc e e p ac ices and pe cep ions o his g oup o
use s (see Lehdon i a, 2018). This esea ch he e o e examines he case o independen ashion
design as one example o independen c ea i e p oduc ion ha has been signi ican ly in luenced by
he digi al pla o m Ins ag am.
The digi al labou o independen ashion designe s has o en been s udied unde he amewo k o
he ‘pla o miza ion o cul u al p oduc ion’ (Niebo g and Poell, 2018: 4276). Acco ding o Niebo g
and Poell (2018), his en ails he ex ension o digi al pla o ms in he app and web ecosys ems a ec -
ing he ope a ions o he c ea i e indus ies. Typically, he wo k o YouTube s, Ins ag ame s and
blogge s has been s udied in his con ex (B ydges and Sjöholm, 2019; Caplan and Gillespie, 2020;
Gla , 2022). Addi ionally, en ep eneu s such as ashion designe s, a is s and musicians who sell
p oduc s, a b and, and pa o hei pe sonali y on digi al media pla o ms and whose wo k p ac ices
ha e subs an ially changed because o his, can be classi ied as conduc ing pla o m labou in he
pla o m-media ed ield o cul u al p oduc ion (Du y, 2017; H acs e al., 2013; H acs and Leslie,
2014; Ja e , 2022; Kneese and Palm, 2020). One o he indus ies ha has mos g a i a ed owa ds
Ins ag am is he ashion indus y. The Business o Fashion media company epo ed ha by Ma ch
2018, 98% o ashion b ands had an Ins ag am p o ile (Be ezhana, 2018; de Pe huis and Findlay,
2019). Fo such b ands, ha ing an Ins ag am page and main aining i has become en angled wi h hei
day- o-day wo k. Pos ing on and eading Ins ag am a e in e wined wi h designing, ne wo king, p o-
ducing and ma ke ing clo hes (Rocamo a, 2017). Acco dingly, independen ashion designe s ul il
he hyb id ole o being a designe , a blogge , an en ep eneu and a ma ke ing agency a he same
ime (Repenning, 2022). Thus, he con inuous wo k o engaging wi h he pla o m o consume digi al
1506 EPA: Economy and Space 56(5)
da a o moni o he s a us o he indus y, as well as he wo k o p oducing con en o ad e ise he
b and, as well as no el designs, and pe sonal achie emen s, need o be se cen e s age (B ydges and
Sjöholm, 2019).
The a icle is s uc u ed in o he ollowing sec ions: The heo y sec ion i s de ines and posi ions
he pe spec i e o imespace ic ion in longs anding academic deba es on echnology, ime and accel-
e a ion. Subsequen ly, he concep o imespace ic ion is de ined. In he nex s ep, he ole o
Ins ag am as a ime-s uc u ing de ice in he ashion indus y is elabo a ed, s essing pe spec i es on
as ashion, slow ashion and he ole o digi al labou . Then, a de ailed desc ip ion o he esea ch
me hods used is p o ided. I hen p esen he empi ical ma e ial while syn hesising h ee c ucial imes-
pace ic ions: synch onisa ion ic ion, de-synch onisa ion ic ion and ic ion wi hou g ip. Finally,
he esul s and hei implica ions o he a ea o c i ical pla o m s udies a e discussed.
Si ua ing imespace ic ion in deba es on echnological accele a ion
In deba es a ound echnology and ime, he e has been a longs anding discussion abou i and how
echnology induces empo al accele a ion. In he ollowing, I look a h ee ele an posi ions o si ua e
he pe spec i e o imespace ic ion. To s a wi h, Ha ey (1989) a gues ha inno a ion in commu-
nica ion and anspo a ion echnologies has educed he empo al and spa ial dis ances and hus
inc eased he speed o capi al p oduc ion. He demons a es how new p e ailing modes o anspo a-
ion and communica ion ha encou age an inc easing eloci y o people, goods and in o ma ion a -
elling ac oss dis ance, indica e a new cycle o ime-space comp ession in he o ganisa ion o capi alism.
Ha ey builds on wha Ma x has called ‘ he annihila ion o space by ime’, a p ocess os e ed by
inno a ion in echnology and anspo ha educes he cos s o he ci cula ion o goods ac oss he
globe, hus allowing he speeding up o he p oduc ion o capi al.
Rosa (2020) ex ends hese a gumen s while acing he e ec o he speeding up o anspo and
communica ion in he accele a ed expe iences o people. The so-called ‘accele a ion o social change’
summa ises ha he inc easing pace and ci cula ion o in o ma ion and news means ha un a ied
condi ions ha e a sho e du a ion, and he ci cums ances o s abili y a e pe cei ed as e e -changing.
The accele a ion o he pace o li e is concep ualised as a con ac ion and agglome a ion o p ac ices.
Digi al echnologies impac he accele a ion o p ac ices, as asks can be done mo e e icien ly, esul -
ing in mo e ac i i ies being conduc ed as e . In sum, he inc ease in he low o in o ma ion, p ac ices
and expe iences in a gi en ime in oduces social accele a ion. Social accele a ion inds i s exp ession
in mode n socie y in he pe cep ion o s ess, he ea o being le behind and he imp ession ha ime
lies (Rosa, 2020).
Whe eas Rosa ex ends he a gumen o echnological accele a ion by in eg a ing indi idual p ac-
ices and expe iences, eminis geog aphe s u he complica e he in e ela ion o echnology, socie y
and humans. They poin ou ha globalisa ion and ela ed ends o accele a ion and digi alisa ion a e
une en, complex and messy (e.g. Ka z, 2001; Massey, 1994). Acco dingly, Wajcman (2015) in o-
duces a STS pe spec i e o s udy empo al accele a ion p ocesses. She unde sco es ha people use,
design and go e n echnologies. The e o e, she insis s ha echnologies p oduce complex and di e se
socio– empo al ela ions, a he han mainly as e ones. In his espec , Wajcman (2015: 184) s a es
ha he echnologies o digi al capi alism ‘as much e lec ou highspeed cul u e as shape i ’. Applying
his la e pe spec i e o he examina ion o digi al media pla o ms b ings o ligh ha hese pla o ms
a e concei ed wi hin speci ic social con ex s and a e in ica ely in luenced by he di e se and local-
ised ways in which hey a e u ilised. Tempo ali ies in lic ed by digi al media pla o ms a e he e o e
co-de eloped by he social con ex , people and he speci ic a chi ec u e o he echnology in an ongo-
ing mu ual ela ionship whe e people and socie y shape digi al echnologies, and digi al echnologies
shape hem. Digi al pla o ms a e an example o a communica ion echnology ha co-s uc u es use
Repenning 1507
p ac ices and shapes he use ’s aspi a ions o inc eased e iciency. Toge he , echnologies, people and
media p ac ices lead o socie al accele a ion o de-accele a ion p ocesses.
De ining imespace ic ion
Co esponding o hese no ions o empo ali y, echnology and accele a ion, I in oduce a hi d pe -
spec i e on imespace ic ion. This pe spec i e u he ex ends he STS pe spec i e on he in e ela-
ion o echnology, empo ali y, use s and accele a ion. Howe e , i o eg ounds he mul iplici y o
imespaces and how hey a e made and e-made, sped up and slowed by digi al pla o m companies,
social p ac ices, as well as ac o s’ hopes and wishes.
Fi s , o unde s and he imespace ic ions o digi al media pla o ms as a con es ed empo-spa ial
ela ion be ween pla o m impe a i es and use impe a i es, I u n o he concep ualisa ion o ic ion
om Tsing (2005). Second, o de ine digi al media pla o ms as hy hm-make s and ime-s uc u ing
de ices, I wo k wi h pe spec i es on imespace by May and Th i (2001) and hy hms by Le eb e
(2004):
F ic ion
Tsing (2005) in oduced a pe spec i e on ic ion o es ablish a eminis , e hnog aphic iewpoin on
global connec ions. He empi ical wo k s ems om he Indonesian ain o es and aces he mul iple
and con es ed p ocesses among i s logging si es. De ining ic ion, Tsing a gues ha global connec-
ions a e s icky wo ldly encoun e s made and un-made in messy daily con on a ions ac oss he globe.
Ra he han assuming o unde s and capi alism om a gene al pe spec i e, she a gues ha i is neces-
sa y o disco e how i ope a es in ic ion, whe e capi alism is made and unmade in he p oduc i e
ic ion o daily encoun e s. She concep ualises ic ion as he ‘g ip o wo ldly encoun e ’ (Tsing,
2005: 5), whe e capi alis uni e sals a e b ough in o ac ion. F ic ion di e ges om capi alism’s
impe a i e, as hey migh block i . A he same ime, ic ion ansla es he global low o capi alism
in o daily li e and hus makes hese lows possible. Toge he , hese p ocesses cons i u e he messy,
une en o ms o capi alism.
T ansla ing he concep o ic ion o he ic ion o digi al capi alism means ha ic ion occu s
be ween he conjunc u al imespace o pla o m capi alism and he hy hms o use s’ daily (wo k)
li es as hey ub agains each o he . F ic ions hus o m he zone o ‘con luence’ whe e, acco ding o
Tsing (2005: 4), ‘uni e sals and pa icula s come oge he o c ea e he [ empo-spa ial] o ms o [digi-
al] capi alism we li e in’. A pe spec i e on ic ion en ails iewing he daily encoun e s o pla o m
capi alism ‘ om below’ and obse ing how imespaces a e made and unmade in con luence o di e -
gence wi h he hy hm o he pla o m. Use s ansla e he empo al hy hm o digi al media in o he
eali y o hei daily empo al hy hms. Fo ins ance, hey speed up p ocesses and ac ions o align wi h
he empo-spa ial equi emen s o he pla o ms; a o he imes, hey slow down hei e o s. Thus,
ic ion occu s whe e he ins an aneous hy hms o pla o m capi alism and he imespaces o he
people in hei daily (wo k) li es ub agains each o he and o m he messy, con es ed imespace o
e e yday li e.
Digi al de ices, imespace and hy hms
Building upon Tsing’s concep o ic ion, his esea ch adop s a imespace pe spec i e oo ed in he
heo ies p oposed by May and Th i (2001) as well as Le eb e (2004). May and Th i (2001) high-
ligh he mul iplici y o imespaces and how hey a e made and e-made, sped up and slowed by social
p ac ices and hei a ia ions. The e o e, hey emphasise he indi idual daily expe iences and p ac-
ices o making imespace, unde sco ing how ‘a sense o social ime is made and e-made acco ding
1508 EPA: Economy and Space 56(5)
o social p ac ices’ (May and Th i , 2001: 5). May and Th i ’s (2001) de ini ion o imespace accen-
ua es ha he cons uc ion o social ime elies on he empo al o de ing o spa ially si ua ed p ac-
ices. Addi ionally, hey desc ibe social ime as in luenced by spa ially si ua ed p ac ices and
con ingen p ocesses o empo al meaning-making. Timespace hus elies on a empo al o ganisa ion
o spa ially si ua ed p ac ices, as well as meaning-making.
Addi ionally, hey o eg ound ha people’s empo-spa ial p ac ices a e hy hmically ende ed by
social, echnological, na u al and ma e ial domains. C ucially, hey a gue ha a sense o ime eme ges
om one’s ela ionship wi h a ious ins umen s and de ices. They e e o ools such as he sundial,
ideo eco de s and elephones as shaping he na u e and he pe cep ion o ime. Addi ionally, hey
a gue ha no only de ices bu also ime ables, such as weekly calenda s o hou ly schedules ha a e
w i en down o ansmi ed in elec onic o m, shape socio- empo al p ac ices and meaning and hus
cons i u e a sense o ime.
In Le eb e’s (2004: 48) pe spec i e on hy hms, he c i ically assesses he hy hm-making e ec s
o he media, highligh ing ha ‘ he media en e in o he e e yday; e en mo e: hey con ibu e o p o-
ducing i ’. He e lec s on how he media seamlessly p oduces daily hy hms, as he images and wo ds
ha en e e e yday li e a e-occu ing in e als o de daily and weekly s uc u es and hus con ibu e
o making up daily empo ali ies.
In sum, a pe spec i e on imespace and hy hms allows us o see digi al de ices, as well as he
media, as ools ha in luence he o de ing o p ac ices (May and Th i , 2001), he daily e-occu ing
hy hms (Le eb e, 2004) and he pe cep ion o he sense o ime (May and Th i , 2001). Thus, he
digi al in e aces ha a e pa o daily spaces o pla o m-media ed in e ac ion (May and Th i , 2001),
as well as he unde lying capi alis incen i es o he digi al companies ha p o ide hese apps
(Le eb e, 2004), cu en ly shape he pe cep ion o ime and he hy hmic o de ing o daily p ac ices
o many.
Syn hesising imespace ic ion
Agains he backg ound o hese heo ies, I de ine imespace ic ion as a con es ed empo-spa ial
ela ion be ween he impe a i es o pla o m capi alism and he empo al possibili ies o he use s. I
deno es he empo al s uc u ing p ocess among he ime-s uc u ing mechanisms on he pla o m,
o ches a ed h ough he digi al in e aces, nudging he use s owa ds ins an aneous da a p oduc ion
o consump ion. These mechanisms a e nego ia ed because o he limi ed empo-spa ial possibili ies
o he pla o m use s. Thus, he ic ion be ween he pla o m’s imespaces and he use s’ e e yday li e
a e momen s whe e he digi al media imespace and he imespace o daily li e ub agains each o he ,
a e adjus ed, and a e o med.
The digi al in e aces o a media pla o m, such as Ins ag am, a e de ined as a digi al ime able o
me onome ha di ec s use p ac ices in p e-concei ed empo al o ms and con ibu es o a sense o
ime. In his way, I unde sco e ha he use p ac ices a e empo ally o de ed and synch onised by he
digi al in e aces and con ibu e o he meaning-making o ime.
Ins ag am and accele a ed imespaces o he ashion indus y
Ins ag am’s empo-spa ial cha ac e is ics
Ins ag am ep esen s a classic example o a digi al media pla o m ha has isen in p ominence as a
daily used digi al ool. A i s co e, i ma ches co esponding use a o dances and hus encou ages
o ms o digi al da a p oduc ion and consump ion ha ope a e in andem wi h he pla o m-speci ic
mechanism o alue ex ac ion (Hine, 2015; an Dijck, 2013). Mo e speci ically, Ins ag am a o ds
in e pe sonal con ac be ween indi iduals o g oups ha may be pe sonal o /and p o essional
Repenning 1509
(Ba ns, 2020; Lingel, 2017; an Dijck, 2013). Use s es ablish digi al connec ions ia he ‘ ollow’ bu -
on o s ay upda ed abou he p o essional and/o pe sonal li e o o he use s. Addi ionally, hey a e
encou aged o in e ac wi h he p esen ed con en h ough commen s, likes, o sha es. Fu he ,
Ins ag am p omo es use -gene a ed con en . As a isual pla o m, i a o ds c ea i e and cul u al
ac i i y ia he uploading o ideos and pho os in in e sec ing ama eu and p o essional sphe es ( an
Dijck, 2013). The e o e, Ins ag am is pa icula ly p ominen in he ealms o a is ic, c ea i e and
cul u al p oduc ion and consump ion (Boy and Ui e ma k, 2017; Du y e al., 2021). The ashion
indus y is one such c ea i e-cul u al indus y ha has been d awn o he use o Ins ag am, and unc-
ions in close ela ionship wi h he pla o m as a cen al space o ma ke ing, sales, ne wo king and
inspi a ion (Repenning, 2022).
Rocamo a (2017) unde lines ha digi al media has a subs an ial impac on he way ha design is
cons uc ed and he way ha ashion shows a e p esen ed. She e en a gues ha he pho og aphic
ep esen a ion o a d ess on digi al media has o en become mo e impo an han he d ess i sel .
Simila ly, unde he no ion o ‘b ick-and-pla o m’ (Kneese and Palm, 2020: 2), he au ho s desc ibe
how pla o ms a ec local me chan s, b ick-and-mo a shops and digi alised labou and sales p o-
cesses in he case o he economy o ashion and music.
C ucially, Ins ag am also unc ions as a spa io- empo al media. The pla o m p o ides op ions o
geo ag pos ed con en , il e da a based on loca ion and p o ide local as well as anslocal social con-
nec ions (Ki chin e al., 2017; Souza e Sil a and Go don, 2013). To his end, Lingel (2017) de ines
digi al media pla o ms as social spaces ha explici ly e e ence geog aphic loca ions in ex , images
and ideos. Addi ionally, she unde lines ha implici desc ip ions in he me a-da a e eal he da e,
ime and loca ion o he con en p oduc ion.
Beyond he geo ag and he me ada a, digi al media pla o ms such as Ins ag am a e deno ed as
eal- ime o ins an aneous media ha u he comp ess he sense o ime and dis ance. Wel e ede e
al. (2014) in oduce he no ion o ‘ eal imeness’ o desc ibe how digi al media pla o ms p oduce
dis inc o ms o eal- ime o hei use s. The idea o pla o ms as eal- ime media sugges s cha ac-
e ising pla o ms based on i hey p esen ‘ esh, dynamic o con inuously p ocessed con en ’
(Wel e ede e al., 2014: 126). Fo ins ance, Ins ag am s o ies a e online o 24 hou s, and li e b oad-
cas s a e online only when li e. This necessi a es inc easing in e ac ions among use s, who become
mo e ac i e and inc ease hei ‘li e’ glances on he si e (Wel e ede e al., 2014: 142–143). The e o e,
Zulli (2018) a gues ha he name Ins ag am poin s owa ds he pla o m’s ole in p esen ing ins an
isuals, c ea ing a con inuous lee ing cycle o pos ing and iewing a always-upda ed digi al con en
o de ed by he pla o m’s digi al in e aces. Mo eo e , digi al pla o ms and social and spa ial media
ha e al e ed he p ac ices o coo dina ion in ime and space (Souza e Sil a and Go don, 2013). The
pla o m company nudges, which inc ease use in e ac ions, esul in cap u ing inc eased eal- ime
da a ha he pla o m company hen capi alises on (Ki chin, 2019).
Fas ashion, slow ashion and Ins ag am
In pa icula , he ashion indus y ep esen s a case whose empo-spa ial cons i u ions ha e d ama i-
cally changed. Due o he inc easing impo ance o Ins ag am in he daily li e o designe s and con-
sume s and he g owing eliance on digi al ma ke ing and sales, he empo-spa iali ies o ashion ha e
been edi ec ed. Unde he e m ‘ as ashion’, changes in he global p oduc ion ne wo k o ashion
ha e occu ed. I se es as a c i ical e m, indica ing he p e ailing ashion p oduc ion app oach led
by majo global playe s like Za a, H&M, Bene on, Topshop and Shein. Fas ashion can be desc ibed
as a minimisa ion o he so-called ime- o-ma ke ha , i s and o emos , is ensu ed by a as and
esponsi e supply chain and cheap p oduc ion cos s. This en ails ha global ashion e aile s spend
minimal ime on design. Ins ead, hey sou ce in o ma ion on ends and designs and immedia ely s a
p oduc ion and sales in swi ime ames. They sou ce hei clo hes globally, wi h o sho e p oduc ion
1510 EPA: Economy and Space 56(5)
si es ha p oduce massi e amoun s o clo hes ha cos li le pe i em ha a e hen sen o hei s o es
globally. Consequen ially, new ashion pieces a e seen, selec ed, p oduced and sold almos immedi-
a ely, and new collec ions en e he s o e a an e e -inc easing hy hm. The h ee key asse s o as
ashion companies a e: (i) an inc easing numbe o e ail s o es, (ii) a eliable in o ma ion in as uc-
u e o de ec he la es ends and (iii) a quick and cos -e icien supply chain (Toka li, 2007; on
Hi schhausen, 2017).
Ins ag am, as eal- ime media, has uelled wo o he h ee c ucial elemen s o he as ashion
a chi ec u e. Fi s , he swi in o ma ion sys em allows he de ec ion o ends in eal- ime. Fo
ins ance, in o ma ion om he la es collec ion p esen ed a Fashion Week a els h ough Ins ag am
wo ldwide immedia ely. T ends a e hus de ec ed as e and can be di ec ly included in he upcoming
p oduc ion line o as ashion e aile s. Second, he op ion o di ec ly p esen and sell he i ems o
cus ome s h ough he always-upda ed digi al in e aces on Ins ag am igge s he cus ome s o o de
he clo hes ins an ly om anywhe e a any ime. In o ma ion is anspo ed e en as e and desi es a e
c ea ed quicke and eplaced by new desi es a an inc eased pace. Shop opening hou s o commu ing
imes a e empo-spa ial obs acles slowing consump ion. These ba ie s ha e been educed because
cus ome s can o de i ems any ime and anywhe e h ough Ins ag am and he connec ed online shop
(C ewe, 2017; on Hi schhausen, 2017). This en ails comp essing ime and space (Ha ey, 1989);
pla o m echnologies allow mo e p oduc s o be p o ided mo e equen ly and in mo e e i o ies
han be o e.
On he o he ex eme o as ashion, he e is a con adic ing de elopmen connec ed wi h he
in oduc ion o Ins ag am and he changing empo-spa ial hy hms o he ashion sys em. This de el-
opmen is some imes e e ed o unde he desc ip ion o ‘slow ashion’ and hus associa ed wi h local
sou cing and a slow pace o p oduc ion and consump ion, as well as sus ainabili y (Leslie e al., 2014;
on Hi schhausen, 2017). Essen ially, he a gumen en ails ha he longs anding hie a chies in he
ashion indus y ha e become democ a ised because o he digi al oppo uni ies on Ins ag am. The
hope is ha e e yone can make i om e e ywhe e because e e y b and has he chance o u ilise he
many online op ions o independen p oduce s. Consequen ly, independen and/o sus ainable
designe s ha e used Ins ag am as a ee ool o a sus ainable coun e cul u e o aise sus ainabili y
awa eness, epo anspa en ly on he p oduc ion p ocess and sell hei clo hes o a pe sonalised cus-
ome base, while no ollowing he accele a ed ashion indus y ends.
Fo independen ashion b ands, hese de elopmen s indica e ha Ins ag am has equally become a
space o us a ion and hope. On he one hand, Ins ag am is a media o us a ion because pla o ms
a e used as a sou ce o in o ma ion o moni o he indus y’s s a us and iden i y o e all socie al ends.
The speed wi h which in o ma ion is di used has inc eased due o Ins ag am, and in o ma ion is
pos ed, accessed and commen ed on almos ins an aneously by a anslocal online ne wo k. These
ac o s impac he inc easing pace o end di usion, wi h he accele a ing speed o as ashion
b ands unc ioning as a ca alys . Independen b ands encoun e challenges in keeping pace, leading o
eelings o us a ion ( on Hi schhausen, 2017).
On he o he hand, Ins ag am is a media o hope because small playe s and independen designe s
ha e he chance o each cus ome s di ec ly, ma ke hei clo hes and build up a b and on hei own.
This aises hope o a democ a isa ion o he indus y and he oppo uni y o aise awa eness o small
b ands and mo e sus ainable ashion al e na i es (C ewe, 2017). These inclina ions inc ease he mo i-
a ion o independen ashion b ands o engage wi h cus ome s and pee s h ough Ins ag am. Thus,
independen designe s wo k be ween o line s udios, online shops and online spaces on Ins ag am
(Repenning, 2022). Building up a b and’s Ins ag am p esence akes a lo o e o bu no addi ional
up- on mone a y cos s. The e o e, he con inuous wo k o engaging wi h he pla o m o p omo e he
wo k and he b and’s achie emen s has become an ex a o m o digi al labou (Du y, 2017). This
labou s e ches ac oss public and p i a e spaces and includes p esen a ions o he sel , as well as o
he b and (B ydges and Sjöholm, 2019; Kneese and Palm, 2020). Thus, we can see ha he empo-
spa ial o de o ashion has been al e ed due o he p ominence o Ins ag am.
Repenning 1517
wheel u ns wi hou ic ion and canno be p ocessed. The e o e, he inc eased impulses o mo ion
u n in o s ess ul, messy and chao ic si ua ions on he g ound, as he pla o m seems o mo e and
ushe esponses ha a e almos impossible o ansla e in he o line wo ld.
These i al si ua ions a e e y much uelled by hope. The designe s gene ally a e en husias ic
abou such si ua ions, saying ha a e su p ised and happy. These eac ions show ha he i al si ua-
ion is a momen whe e hei aspi a ions ma e ialise because he pla o m p esen s he po en ial o
sudden g ow h (Du y, 2017; Pe i , 2021). The e o e, he designe s y o ca ch up wi h he hy hms
o he pla o m o ide along wi h he unexpec ed wa e o success. Who dic a es and execu es he
hy hms becomes e y appa en in such an ex eme si ua ion. While ying o ca ch up wi h he pla -
o m’s pace, a chao ic momen o hope and disappoin men o accele a ion and he pe cep ion o
being oo slow emains. A e a ush on he accoun , he si ua ion ends and slows down a e a couple
o days, as he a en ion on he always-upda ed digi al media in e aces shi s elsewhe e.
Conclusion: On digi al media me onomes and imespace ic ion
I ha e b ough oge he in his pape he pla o m labou and imespace pe spec i es o p opose a
amewo k o s udy he ela ionship be ween he empo al hy hms o pla o m capi alism and pla -
o m labou . I p opose ha digi al media pla o ms can be seen as a me onome ha nudges he imes-
paces o daily (wo k) li e. To ga he da a, and subsequen ly p o i , he pla o m p omp s he use
owa ds inc easing in e ac ion wi h, and a en ion o, he pla o m. A ocus on examining ic ion
e eals ha imespaces o pla o m capi alism a e adjus ed o he poly hy hmic encoun e s o daily
li e ha challenge he hy hms o he digi al media me onome o accele a e p ac ices o y o ollow
he imposed pace.
Going beyond no ions o accele a ion, eal- ime, ins an aneous ime o disconnec ing ime, he
no ion o he digi al media me onome builds on he p e iously es ablished de ini ions o imespace
ic ion. I en ails ha digi al media pla o ms ha e become hy hm make s ha co-shape he empo al
p ac ices and expe ience o ime in he daily li e o i s use s (Le eb e, 2004; May and Th i , 2001).
Digi al media me onomes nudge use s owa ds p o iding ins an aneous da a, eal- ime communica-
ion and ‘jus -in- ime’ in e ac ions (Wel e ede e al., 2014; Zulli, 2018). Howe e , his a icle unde -
sco es ha digi al media me onomes do no ope a e in a acuum bu a e a p oduc o socie al
impe a i es, media p ac ices and use s hopes and wishes (Wajcman, 2015). Thus, he digi al media
me onome ope a es as a socio- echnical a angemen be ween he impe a i es o pla o m capi alism
and pla o m labou . Use s can u n a me onome on and o , i can be se as e o slowe , and i can
be ollowed o igno ed. Howe e , e en hough bo h pla o m owne s and use s can di ec he digi al
media me onome, i is essen ial o dis inguish hei di e ence in e ms o powe (Massey, 1994; an
Dijck, 2013). To his end, he ic ion be ween he pla o m’s accele a ed ime-spaces and he use s’
e e yday li e is indica ed as he momen whe e he digi al media imespaces and he imespaces o
daily li e ub agains each o he , a e nego ia ed, adjus ed and o med. This pe spec i e e eals how he
pla o m’s ins an aneous and as hy hms a e e-a anged by he use s and poin s owa ds he daily
labou s uggles.
The amewo k es ablished was employed o s udy independen ashion designe s in Be lin and
hei wo k on he digi al media pla o m Ins ag am. In he case s udy, h ee imespace ic ions o
pla o m capi alism we e dis illed: (i) synch onisa ion ic ion occu s when he pla o m’s speed is
ansla ed in o he daily li e o he wo ke s who y o ollow he hy hms o he pla o m and speed
up hei ac ions; (ii) de-synch onisa ion ic ion esembles a con inuous and e o ul dis ancing om
he speed o he pla o m, wi h wo ke s slowing down and ying o impose hei own hy hms o
engagemen ; and (iii) ic ion wi hou g ip is an ex eme si ua ion ha occu s du ing he phenomenon
o i al e en s. Wi h such e en s, he pla o m’s algo i hms spin ee and lose connec ion o he
hy hms on he g ound. They equi e such a highe amoun o in e ac ion in such a sho ime ha is
1518 EPA: Economy and Space 56(5)
impossible o ollow. The e o e, he si ua ion is shaped by a mix o hope, chaos and he con inuous
need o y o ca ch up.
This pape demons a ed ha obse ing he imespace ic ion o digi al pla o ms allows us o see
beyond he appa en ly smoo h ope a ing mechanisms o he pla o m economy ha p omise eal- ime
da a, jus -in- ime lexibili y and e iciency (see Lehdon i a, 2018). Ins ead, i unde sco es ha pla -
o m imespaces a e nego ia ed on he g ound whe e hey ei he hy hmically pulsa e oge he o
g apple agains o he daily hy hms. O line p ac ices ake mo e ime and e o han always-upda ed
online clicks (see de Pe huis and Findlay, 2019). The e o e, ic ions among he con as ing imes-
paces occu . The powe ela ions be ween he hy hms o he pla o m and he hy hm o he wo ke
show ha o en he wo ke s eel inclined o ollow he pla o m’s ime-space nudges while inc easing
and speeding up hei digi al engagemen (Du y, 2017; Ki chin, 2019; Kneese and Palm, 2020; Zulli,
2018). Fo he pla o m, he goal is accomplished because mo e a en ion and in e ac ions a e c ea ed.
Thus, da a and capi al accumula e.
Acknowledgemen s
The au ho wishes o hank he esea ch pa icipan s o he deep insigh s in o hei daily wo k, hei c i ical
e lec ions, hei hones y, and o he ime hey ook o alk o me in hei busy daily schedules. Addi ionally, he
au ho hanks he b illian e e ees o hei suppo in de eloping he heo e ical amewo k o he pape . Thei
hough ul sugges ions imp o ed he pape conside ably. Also, he au ho wishes o hank Sun je Schmid o he
encou aging guidance in he pape w i ing p ocess. Finally, a special hanks o Ma y Be h Wilson o he inal
language p oo eading and hough ul language sugges ions.
Decla a ion o con lic ing in e es s
The au ho decla ed no po en ial con lic s o in e es wi h espec o he esea ch, au ho ship, and/o publica ion
o his a icle.
Funding
The au ho (s) disclosed eceip o he ollowing inancial suppo o he esea ch, au ho ship, and/o publica ion
o his a icle: This pape is based on esea ch wi hin he ame o he p ojec ‘Pla o m Ecology: C ea i e col-
labo a ion in he ield o ension be ween i ual and conc e e spaces in he case o ashion design’ (2019–2021)
a he Leibniz Ins i u e o Resea ch on Socie y and Space (IRS). As a membe o he Leibniz Associa ion, he
IRS is unded by he Fede al Republic and he Fede al S a es o Ge many.
ORCID iD
Alica Repenning h ps://o cid.o g/0000-0002-6152-7362
Supplemen al ma e ial
Supplemen al ma e ial o his a icle is a ailable online.
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