Kau , Ha p ee ; Choudha y, Sh u i; Manoj, Ada sh; Tyagi, Muskan
A icle
C ea ing a sus ainable u u e: insigh s in o b and
ma ke ing in he luxu y ashion indus y
Cogen Business & Managemen
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Sugges ed Ci a ion: Kau , Ha p ee ; Choudha y, Sh u i; Manoj, Ada sh; Tyagi, Muskan (2024) :
C ea ing a sus ainable u u e: insigh s in o b and ma ke ing in he luxu y ashion indus y, Cogen
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C ea ing a sus ainable u u e: insigh s in o b and
ma ke ing in he luxu y ashion indus y
Ha p ee Kau , Sh u i Choudha y, Ada sh Manoj & Muskan Tyagi
To ci e his a icle: Ha p ee Kau , Sh u i Choudha y, Ada sh Manoj & Muskan Tyagi (2024)
C ea ing a sus ainable u u e: insigh s in o b and ma ke ing in he luxu y ashion indus y,
Cogen Business & Managemen , 11:1, 2328391, DOI: 10.1080/23311975.2024.2328391
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Cogen Business & ManageMen
2024, VoL. 11, no. 1, 2328391
C ea ing a sus ainable u u e: insigh s in o b and ma ke ing in he
luxu y ashion indus y
Ha p ee Kau , Sh u i Choudha y, Ada sh Manoj and Muskan Tyagi
school o Comme ce, Finance and accoun ancy, CHRis (Deemed o be uni e si y), Delhi, india
ABSTRACT
This pape aims o de elop a concep ual amewo k ha elucida es he ac o s ha
impac sus ainable luxu y b and ma ke ing, speci ically ocusing on he luxu y ashion
indus y. The amewo k aims o highligh he ole played by he indus y in p omo ing
economic, social, and en i onmen al sus ainabili y. By examining hese ac o s, he
s udy seeks o con ibu e o a be e unde s anding o how luxu y ashion b ands can
e ec i ely inco po a e sus ainabili y in o hei ma ke ing s a egies, he eby os e ing a
mo e sus ainable and esponsible app oach o luxu y consump ion. Applying he
heo e ical amewo k de i ed om he li e a u e e iew and sys ema ic mapping
app oach, we examine i s ele ance in he luxu y ashion ma ke . This explo a ion
allows us o assess i s p ac ical applicabili y and ga he empi ical e idence ega ding
sus ainable b and ma ke ing in his con ex . This esea ch will gi e an in-dep h analysis
o he majo elemen s in luencing he consump ion o sus ainable luxu y goods. The
indings expand ou unde s anding o he sus ainable p ac ices adop ed by luxu y
ashion b ands, p o iding aluable insigh s o academia and he indus y. This s udy’s
implica ions a e p o ound: luxu y b and manage s can enhance b and alue h ough
insigh s on sus ainable ashion consump ion d i e s, while sus ainable b ands gain
s a egies o audience engagemen and loyal y.
1. In oduc ion
Go e nmen s, p i a e o ganiza ion and consume s a e inc easingly ad oca ing he need o adop mo e
ecologically sus ainable consump ion and business models. This g oundswell o suppo is d i en by con-
ce ns abou he ha m ul en i onmen al e ec s o clima e change and he limi ed na u al esou ces ha
a e being deple ed due o g owing popula ions, especially in ag icul u e. Sus ainabili y p ac ices aim o
mee p esen needs wi hou comp omising he needs o u u e gene a ions (F anco e al., 2019; Ke &
Land y, 2017). The luxu y ashion indus y is one sec o ha has been pa icula ly sc u inized o i s
business p ac ices conce ning sus ainabili y.
Recen ly he ashion indus y has come unde c i ical sc u iny om he media. Despi e being a US $3
illion indus y ep esen ing 2% o he wo ld’s G oss Domes ic P oduc (Fashion Uni ed, 2018; GDP), he
indus y’s sus ainabili y sho comings ha e been exposed by a ious inciden s, such as Bu be y’s bu n-
ing o unsold clo hes and he BBC’s documen a y ‘Fashion’s Di y Sec e s’. These e en s ha e shed ligh
on he social impac o ashion and aised conce ns abou adi ional ashion p oduc ion and consump-
ion p ac ices. To add ess hese conce ns, sus ainable luxu y ashion (SLF) has eme ged as a e m encom-
passing clo hing and beha io s ha a e less ha m ul o people and he plane . This mo emen has
in oduced al e na i e app oaches o ashion, such as eco- ashion, e hical ashion, and slow- ashion,
which challenge he es o he indus y o slow down and adop mo e sus ainable p ac ices (Ama ulli,
De Angelis, & Dona o, 2021). While he p ac ical clima e o SLF is apidly de eloping h ough a ious
© 2024 he au ho (s). Published by in o ma uK Limi ed, ading as aylo & F ancis g oup.
CONTACT Ha p ee Kau ha p ee .kau @ch is uni e si y.in school o Comme ce, Finance and accoun ancy, CHRis (Deemed o be
uni e si y), Delhi nCR Campus, Delhi, india
h ps://doi.o g/10.1080/23311975.2024.2328391
his is an open access a icle dis ibu ed unde he e ms o he C ea i e Commons a ibu ion License (h p://c ea i ecommons.o g/licenses/by/4.0/), which
pe mi s un es ic ed use, dis ibu ion, and ep oduc ion in any medium, p o ided he o iginal wo k is p ope ly ci ed. he e ms on which his a icle has been
published allow he pos ing o he accep ed Manusc ip in a eposi o y by he au ho (s) o wi h hei consen .
ARTICLE HISTORY
Recei ed 17 Ma ch 2023
Re ised 3 Feb ua y 2024
Accep ed 28 Feb ua y
2024
KEYWORDS
Sus ainabili y; luxu y;
b anding; sus ainable
luxu y ashion;
sus ainabili y challenges;
pu chase in en ion;
a i ude; ashion indus y
REVIEWING EDITOR
Sha ma Ni ika,
In e na ional
Managemen Ins i u e
– New Delhi, India
SUBJECTS
Sus ainabili y; Ma ke ing;
Sales; B and
Managemen ; Consume
Beha iou ; Rela ionship
Ma ke ing
MARKeTING | ReSeARCH ARTICLe
2 H. KAUR eTAL.
ini ia i es, he academic li e a u e, wi h ew excep ions has been slow o de ine and concep ualize SLF
(Henninge e al., 2016).
Unlike o he indus ies wi h modes sus ainabili y eco ds, luxu y ashion companies ha e aced c i -
icism o damaging biodi e si y, animal abuse, gene a ing was e and pollu ion, and exploi a i e labo
p ac ices, especially in de eloping coun ies (Hepne e al., 2020; Woodside & Fine, 2019). Mo eo e ,
luxu y ashion is accused o ailing o use ecycled and eusable ma e ials and o shunning he ci cula
economy. Despi e hese conce ns, he luxu y ashion sec o has g own as oundingly, wi h a e ail ma -
ke o o e US $1 illion (B osseau e al., 2019). Luxu y goods and se ices we e once only accessible
o he weal hy, bu now younge consume s and all social classes can a o d hem, a phenomenon
known as he democ a isa ion o luxu y (Jain e al., 2017). In addi ion o inc easing consume desi e o
luxu y b ands, his democ a isa ion, acili a ed by ashion companies, launched a o dable b ands ma -
ke ed h ough shopping malls o sold online, such as Polo Ralph Lau en, Cal in Klein, and Tag Heue
Hepne (Woodside & Fine, 2019). These b ands o en ake ad an age o lowe p oduc ion cos s o
enhance a o dabili y and a e e e ed o as ‘mass ige’—ha ing b oad consume accessibili y while main-
aining an image o p es ige (Diddi & Niehm, 2017).
Luxu y ashion b ands signi ican ly impac he economy, wi h he indus y alued a US $240
billion (Hashmi, 2017). Howe e , many luxu y i ms a e no p o i able due o in ense compe i ion
and abundan b and choices o consume s in he global ma ke . Sus ainable b and ma ke ing sug-
ges s ha a s ong b and iden i y is essen ial o compe e in he luxu y ashion ma ke (Böcke &
Meelen, 2017). This can be achie ed h ough a ious means, including inno a i e and impeccable
p oduc c a smanship, inno a ion in sus ainable p ac ices, exclusi i y, ecognizable s yle, and p e-
mium p icing (Lege e & Kang, 2020). F om he cus ome ’s pe spec i e, luxu y b ands o e mul i ac-
e ed bene i s, such as social s a us, iden i y a i ma ion, and a sense o belonging. To main ain a
s ong b and iden i y and ele an b anding s a egy, luxu y i ms ha e in es ed millions o dolla s
in de eloping comp ehensi e co po a e b and iden i ies, such as he op ou conglome a es P ada,
Gucci G oup NV, LVMH, and Richemon G oup. A success ul co po a e b anding s a egy allows lux-
u y i ms o c ea e dis inguishable b ands ha a ac cus ome s’ p e e ences and loyal y (Kap e e
& Vale e-Flo ence, 2022).
In he con ex o his backg ound, his heo e ical pape is posi ioned. This pape aims o add ess
wo p ima y objec i es. Fi s ly, i sheds ligh on he sus ainabili y conce ns ha he luxu y ashion
indus y is acing. Secondly, i seeks o comp ehensi ely explo e ac o s in luencing sus ainable luxu y
consump ion and i s ole in helping luxu y ashion ma ke e s unde s and hei consume s and de elop
sus ainable ma ke ing s a egies (A hwal e al., 2019; Kap e e & Michau -Denizeau, 2020). Balancing
su i al goals wi h sus ainabili y objec i es is a signi ican challenge o luxu y ashion ma ke e s.
Ma ke ing heo y and concep s mus shi o add ess he nega i e impac o consump ion (Hepne
e al., 2020; Kau & A o a, 2019). While some co po a e sec o s ha e ac i ely adop ed he sus ainabil-
i y agenda, he luxu y indus y has lagged behind (Hashmi, 2017). This is in e es ing because he lux-
u y ma ke is iewed as exace ba ing socioeconomic dispa i ies, igni ing social ins abili y, and igno ing
en i onmen al and animal wel a e conce ns (Kong e al., 2021). This pape discusses sus ainabili y mea-
su es ha co e social, en i onmen al, and economic aspec s as ou lined in he iple bo om line
(TBL) model. While ou s udy is ocused on he luxu y ashion sec o , he insigh s p esen ed in his
pape a e highly ele an o manage s in o he indus ies. By unde s anding hei consume s be e ,
luxu y ashion ma ke e s can de elop sus ainable business models ha s ike a balance be ween su -
i al goals and sus ainabili y objec i es. Th ough his pape , we hope o encou age he shi owa ds
sus ainable p ac ices in he luxu y ashion indus y (Ama ulli, De Angelis, Peluso, e al., 2021). By
explo ing he easons why cus ome s buy luxu y goods and o wha ex en hey a e awa e o he
e hical implica ions o such consump ion, we can help he luxu y ashion indus y ansi ion owa ds
sus ainabili y and p omo e e hical consump ion (Ama ulli, De Angelis, & Dona o, 2021; Dean, 2018;
Kap e e & Michau -Denizeau, 2020).
Thus, he pape s a s wi h a discussion o he concep ual amewo k and an o e iew o he li e a-
u e conce ning Schwa z’s alue dimensions and Theo y o Planned Beha io (TPB). Followed by he
concep ual amewo k, discussion and implica ions and inally, he limi a ions and u u e esea ch scope
o he s udy is p o ided in he las sec ion.
CoGeNT BUSINeSS & MANAGeMeNT 3
2. O e iew o li e a u e
Based on he exis ing li e a u e, he e is a possibili y o de eloping he idea o sus ainable luxu y and
esea ching consume and ma ke ing ends in he luxu y sec o . This agenda is u he ex ended and
demons a es he need o u he esea ch o suppo he sus ainable g ow h o he luxu y indus y.
e ec i e ma ke ing ac ics o u u e sus ainable-luxu y p oduc s a e ye unknown, and a p ecise de ini-
ion o sus ainable luxu y is s ill elusi e. The esea ch has shown ha he luxu y indus y s ands o win
and lose signi ican ly om mo ing owa d mo e sus ainable p ac ices and ha any sus ainabili y plan
mus be in line wi h he co e alues o luxu y, which include he i age, quali y, longe i y, and imeless-
ness (Jain & Mish a, 2020; Li & Leonas, 2019; Wang e al., 2021).
2.1. Sus ainabili y
The b oadly accep ed de ini ion o sus ainable de elopmen is oo ed in he p inciple o mee ing cu en
needs wi hou comp omising he abili y o u u e gene a ions o mee hei own needs (B und land
Commission. Wo ld Commission on en i onmen and De elopmen WCeD, 1987, p. 43). This ounda ional
concep acknowledges he ini e na u e o esou ces and emphasizes he need o esponsible manage-
men o ensu e hei sus ainabili y o u u e gene a ions. In con empo a y imes, consume s exhibi a
dis inc p e e ence o e hical and en i onmen ally conscious p oduc s ha align wi h hei alues and
belie s (Hennigs e al., 2013; Jain & Mish a, 2020). As a holis ic concep , sus ainabili y ex ends beyond
en i onmen al conside a ions, encompassing aspec s such as pe sonal well-being, ele a ed quali y o li e,
and a sense o esponsibili y owa d he communi y (Pa ione e al., 2016). Consume s oday ac i ely seek
ou g een p oduc s ha no only esona e wi h hei alues bu also con ibu e o a mo e sus ainable
and esponsible li es yle. P e ious s udies ha e ca ego ized sus ainable ashion consump ion in o socio-
cul u al, ego-cen ed, and eco-cen e ed alues (Ce ellon & Shammas, 2013). Mo eo e , luxu y sus ain-
abili y cus ome alues ha e been classi ied in o inancial, unc ional, pe sonal, and in e pe sonal
ca ego ies (Hennigs e al., 2013). Ki and Kim (2016) e ealed ha in insic alues ela ed o pe sonal s yle
and social consciousness we e signi ican d i e s o sus ainable luxu y pu chases. In con as , en i on-
men al consciousness did no signi ican ly impac hese decisions.
2.2. Luxu y and sus ainabili y
Luxu y and sus ainabili y ha e adi ionally been iewed as incompa ible by consume s, as indica ed by esea ch
conduc ed by Kap e e and Michau -Denizeau (2014) and Kong e al. (2016). Howe e , since 2015, he luxu y
indus y has d awn he a en ion o ad oca es o sus ainable de elopmen , acco ding o Johns one and Tan
(2015). Luxu y consume s end o iew ce ain luxu y i ems as inhe en ly sus ainable, as no ed in a ious s ud-
ies (Ama ulli e al., 2017; Diddi & Niehm, 2017). Schola s e e o his new ound compa ibili y be ween luxu y
and sus ainabili y as ‘posi i e luxu y’ (Wins on, 2017), ‘g een luxu y’ (Kong e al., 2016), and ‘ esponsible luxu y’
(Janssen e al., 2014). Acco ding o Kap e e and Lau en (2016), luxu y goods mus ha e a e aw ma e ials,
excep ional quali y, noble componen s, and p ese e a isanal p ac ices ac oss gene a ions. Addi ionally, ans-
pa ency in manu ac u ing condi ions is essen ial o luxu y, as high quali y ha ha ms he en i onmen canno
be conside ed ue luxu y. Thus, Kong e al. (2016) a gues ha luxu y p oduc s c ea ed locally by alen ed
a is s espec ing he sou ce o aw ma e ials a e consis en wi h sus ainabili y. Many majo luxu y g oups ha e
also ans o med hei alue chain in o an eco- iendly one, including pos -pu chase ecycling, acco ding o
Wins on (2017) and Kap e e and Michau -Denizeau (2020).
2.3. Fashion and sus ainabili y
The e has been a p e ailing assump ion ha ashion and sus ainabili y a e incompa ible concep s.
Fashion is o en associa ed wi h cons an change and inno a ion, leading o sho p oduc ion uns and
as s yle cycles, which can esul in was e. In con as , sus ainabili y is ela ed o endu ing quali y o e
ime (Hashmi, 2017). Howe e , some ca ego ies o luxu y ashion, such as luggage, wa ches, o jewelle y,
4 H. KAUR eTAL.
can le e age hei he i age o p oduce high-quali y, du able, and imeless p oduc s which can be sus-
ainable. In his con ex , luxu y and sus ainabili y can be in e dependen , whe e bo h bene i om such
a pa ne ship. Mo eo e , me ging sus ainabili y and luxu y appeals o cus ome s, especially o new gen-
e a ions o consume s who alue b ands ha inco po a e sus ainable p ac ices as pa o hei alues.
Consume beha io is shi ing om sel -indulgence o communi y conce ns, om conspicuous consump-
ion o conscien ious consump ion, and om immedia e g a i ica ion o conce n o u u e gene a ions
(Jain e al., 2017). The e o e, many luxu y b ands a e including new p ac ices and e ol ing sus ainable
business p ac ices o mee he expec a ions o cus ome s who a e mo e sensi i e o a b and’s sus ain-
abili y na a i e.
Sus ainabili y can also become a ma ke ing s a egy. A sus ainable image can di e en ia e one b and
om ano he , p o iding a compe i i e ad an age. Sus ainabili y p ac ices equi e conside ing he en i e
alue chain, which may equi e c ea ing s a egic pa ne ships wi h supplie s. By doing so, luxu y b ands
can appeal o hei cus ome s’ expec a ions while also bene i ing om a sus ainable image.
2.4. Majo sus ainabili y challenges and s a egies
Luxu y ashion companies mus quickly ecognize and espond o sus ainabili y challenges and adop
sus ainable models. This sec ion discusses he signi ican sus ainabili y challenges ha ashion luxu y
i ms ace in h ee essen ial dimensions: social, en i onmen al, and economic.
Rega ding social challenges, he luxu y ashion indus y has been c i icized o accep ing dange ous
wo king condi ions in ac o ies, engaging in gende inequali y, and paying meage wages. The ashion
luxu y sec o aces social challenges on wo le els: Fi s ly, o sa egua d he well-being o all employees
( he i m-o ien ed app oach), he o ganiza ion should ensu e ha all ac ions enhance employees’ quali y
o li e wi hin he company while also being awa e o a angemen s ac oss he en i e supply chain.
Secondly, o p o ec he well-being o socie y ( he ma ke -o ien ed app oach), he conce n should be o
he whole indus y, no jus he i m. Ma ke -le el in ol emen ensu es ha decisions made a he indus-
y le el a e in o med and bene icial o all s akeholde s (Ra alino, 2018). To achie e his, i ms in a
pa icula ma ke need o moni o ends in consume a i udes and beha io con inuously, changes o
go e nmen egula ions and policies a home and ab oad, and eme ging echnological inno a ions. Fo
ins ance,
LVMH, a conglome a e o luxu y b ands, has aken comp ehensi e s eps owa ds sus ainabili y. B ands unde
he LVMH umb ella, such as Louis Vui on and Dio , ha e no only emb aced sus ainable ma e ials and p ac-
ices wi hin hei collec ions and ma ke ing campaigns bu ha e also ecognized he impe a i e o add essing
social issues. LVMH’s ‘Li e 360’ sus ainabili y s a egy plays a pi o al ole in guiding hese e o s, illus a ing a
collec i e commi men no only o en i onmen al esponsibili y bu also o add essing social challenges ha
a e inhe en in he pu sui o sus ainable luxu y ashion. – Ange ine e al. (2021)
Pa agonia’s emphasis on quali y and socially esponsible consump ion se s a no ewo hy example. Thei ma -
ke ing s a egy, hough no ypical o luxu y b ands, unde sco es he company’s unwa e ing commi men o
social alues. By encou aging consume s o choose ewe , highe -quali y i ems, Pa agonia no only p omo es
esponsible consump ion bu also os e s a communi y o conscien ious consume s who p io i ize e hical and
socially esponsible choices in he domain o ashion. – Ra alino (2018)
en i onmen al challenges a e a signi ican conce n o he luxu y ashion indus y as i elies hea ily
on unique and a e na u al esou ces h ea ened by clima e change, popula ion g ow h, biodi e si y loss,
and excessi e demand. This si ua ion could impac he a ailabili y and cos o c i ical ma e ials ha a ec
he p ice o luxu y goods. The ashion luxu y sec o aces wo signi ican en i onmen al challenges.
Fi s ly, luxu y i ms mus ensu e and p ese e na u al esou ces used in p oduc ion, which is c ucial o
main aining hei compe i i e ad an age. This equi es adop ing new p ac ices o egene a e ecosys ems
and secu e he supply o aw ma e ials. Secondly, luxu y i ms mus ind new ypes o sus ainable na u al
esou ces o c ea e subs i u es o cu en aw ma e ials h ough p oduc ion and design inno a ions. To
exempli y,
Gucci, a leading luxu y ashion b and, has launched he ‘Gucci equilib ium’ pla o m, dedica ed o en i onmen-
al and social sus ainabili y. This ini ia i e includes a commi men o ca bon neu ali y and he u iliza ion o
CoGeNT BUSINeSS & MANAGeMeNT 5
sus ainable ma e ials such as eCoNYL, a egene a ed nylon ab ic sou ced om disca ded ishing ne s. Gucci’s
ma ke ing campaigns emphasize hese sus ainabili y e o s, appealing o eco-conscious consume s. – Hend iksz
(2018)
Bu be y, a luxu y b and, has emba ked on ambi ious sus ainabili y goals, wi h a commi men o achie ing
ca bon neu ali y by 2022. The ‘ReBu be y’ ini ia i e cen e s on ecycling and upcycling, while ‘Bu be y
Regene a ion’ suppo s en i onmen ally- ocused you h p ojec s. These ini ia i es ake cen e s age in Bu be y’s
ma ke ing campaigns, unde sco ing hei unwa e ing dedica ion o sus ainabili y. – Ange ine e al. (2021)
on he economic on , luxu y i ms mus ake s a egic and ope a ional ac ions o become ecologi-
cally sus ainable. They mus go beyond educing en i onmen al damage and p e en ing pollu ion by
inding inno a i e sys ems o p oduce, euse, and exploi ma e ials and p oduc s. Fo ins ance,
H&M, while no adi ionally conside ed a luxu y b and, has in oduced he ‘Conscious Collec ion’ o p o ide
sus ainable ashion op ions a a o dable p ices. The ma ke ing o his collec ion a ge s consume s seeking
bo h a o dabili y and sus ainabili y in hei ashion choices. – Whi ing (2019)
P ada’s ‘Re-Nylon’ P ojec , wi h i s ocus on ecycling ocean plas ics o p oduce sus ainable nylon p oduc s, is
a pi o al d i e o economic alue wi hin hei ma ke ing s a egy. P ada’s campaigns emphasize he in e sec-
ion o en i onmen al esponsibili y and inno a ion, showcasing how sus ainabili y can con ibu e o bo h
b and success and economic p ospe i y in he luxu y ashion indus y. – Ind ik (2016)
Measu ing he impac o hei en i onmen al and social oo p in is also essen ial. The mos c i ical
economic challenge acing he luxu y ashion indus y is o engage in he ci cula economy, which
in ol es ecycling and eusing ma e ials in a closed-loop sys em. Luxu y i ms can manu ac u e wi hou
pollu ing by becoming eco-e icien and con ibu ing o a mo e sus ainable u u e. In conclusion, luxu y
ashion companies mus na iga e social, en i onmen al, and economic sus ainabili y challenges, as exem-
pli ied by indus y leade s like LVMH, Gucci, and Bu be y, while os e ing inno a ion and esponsible
p ac ices o ensu e a sus ainable and p ospe ous u u e.
3. Exis ing heo ies
Fusion o he Schwa z Value Theo y and Theo y o Planned Beha io
Schwa z’s alue heo y is used o esea ch on a i ude and beha io wi h a p e e ence o indi iduals’
o g oups’ unde lying ideals (Kau & A o a, 2019; Pai e al., 2022). The heo y ocuses on unde s anding
he impac o alues on consume s’ a i udes and beha io s su ounding he consump ion o sus ainable
luxu y p oduc s as exhibi ed in Figu e 1. The o emos challenge people con on balancing hei
sel -in e es and p o-social and p o-en i onmen al ambi ions. Thei dynamic s uc u e mo i a es hem
wi h hese dilemmas (pe son- ocus e sus social- ocus).
Ano he heo e ical amewo k employed in his s udy is he Theo y o Planned Beha io (TPB) p o-
posed by Ajzen (1991), which in eg a es socie al ideals and pe sonal alues in o a ious consume beha -
io s udies (Jain e al., 2017; Simanjun ak & Pu a, 2021). TPB was de eloped o enhance he Theo y o
Reasoned Ac ion (TRA) and add ess i s limi a ions (Ajzen, 1991; Kuma e al., 2022). Acco ding o TPB,
people’s a i udes owa d beha io , subjec i e no ms, and pe cei ed beha io al con ol (PBC) all
Figu e 1. he in luence o cul u e on beha io .
sou ce: adle (1997).
6 H. KAUR eTAL.
con ibu e o hei beha io al in en ion and subsequen beha io , as exhibi ed in Figu e 2. Schola s ha e
u ilized TPB o in es iga e he ela ionship be ween e hical ideals and beha io al mo i a ions (B andão &
Da Cos a, 2021). en i onmen al awa eness, knowledge, a i udes, and pu chasing in en ions ha e been
examined in s udies explo ing he in luence o e hical and ma e ialis ic alues on consume s’ willingness
o pu chase coun e ei i ems (Kau e al., 2021).
This esea ch elies on a combined heo e ical amewo k comp ising he Theo y o Planned Beha io
(TPB) and Schwa z’s alue heo y. These amewo ks a e employed o explo e he co ela ion be ween
Schwa z’s alues (sel -di ec ion, s imula ion, hedonism, achie emen , powe , secu i y, con o mi y, adi-
ion, bene olence, and uni e salism) and he componen s o TPB in he con ex o sus ainable luxu y
ashion goods. The TPB p o ides a ounda ion o examining a ious cons uc s o elucida e consume
beha io (Ajzen, 1991). Building on exis ing li e a u e, his s udy expands he TPB model o in eg a e
cul u al and Schwa z’s alues dimensions wi hin he ace s o sus ainable luxu y, exhibi ed in Figu e 3.
Figu e 2. heo y o planned beha io .
sou ce: ajzen (1991, p. 182).
Figu e 3. Concep ual in eg a ion o heo y o planned beha io and schwa z alue heo y.
sou ce: au ho (s) wo k.
CoGeNT BUSINeSS & MANAGeMeNT 7
Fu he mo e, a posi i e co ela ion has been iden i ied be ween a i ude, subjec i e no m, pe cei ed
beha io al con ol, and consume s’ inclina ion o pu chase luxu y goods (Youn e al., 2021). Cus ome s’
pe cep ions o he b and, subjec i e no ms, a i udes owa d ad e isemen s, engagemen in eco- ashion,
and en i onmen al conce n ha e been iden i ied as an eceden s o he in en ion o pu chase en i onmen-
ally conscious clo hing b ands (Su & Tong, 2020). McNeill and Moo e (2015) es ablished a s ong ela ion-
ship be ween one’s ashion pe spec i e, pee p essu e, and unde s anding o sus ainable ashion when
examining he link be ween a i ude and beha io . The pas esea ch exclusi ely belie es luxu y’s economic
and epu a ional aspec s and ails o app ehend luxu y pu chases’ as he mo e indi idualized, subjec i e,
and a gumen a i e cha ac e s (Jain e al., 2017; Wallace e al. 2020). The s a egies o sus ainable-luxu y
ma ke ing a e ye la gely unde e mined, and a p ecise de ini ion o sus ainable luxu y is indeed elusi e. The
p ospec o di e en and con lic ing iewpoin s has inc eased as he luxu y en i onmen changes o e ime.
4. De e minan s in luencing he in en ion o pu chase sus ainable luxu y
The ac o s impac ing he in en ion o pu chase sus ainable luxu y; ou signi ican ca ego ies may be
used o g oup a ious aspec s o sus ainable luxu y buying in en ion, including cul u e, sel -o ien ed
(pe sonal) ideals, o he s-o ien ed (social) ideals, and economic bene i as exhibi ed in he Figu e 3.
4.1. Cul u e
Cul u e plays a signi ican in luence on an indi idual’s beha io as e idenced by Jain (2019). In nume ous
s udies, cul u e has eme ged as a pi o al ac o in elucida ing consume pu chasing pa e ns o sus ainable
p oduc s. Figu e 1 po ays he p o ound cul u al in luence on alues, a i udes, and beha io s. Nume ous
s udies ha e consis en ly highligh ed he ‘indi idualism/collec i ism’ dimension as he p ima y cul u al ac-
o o unde s anding a ia ions in consume beha io ac oss di e en na ions. Acco ding o Cza necka and
Schi inski (2021), indi iduals wi h highe collec i ism sco es a e mo e inclined o suppo sus ainable busi-
ness p ac ices and a ibu e di e en alues o ecycling ac i i ies. This inding sugges s ha people om
collec i is ic cul u es p io i ize communi y-o ien ed beha io s and a e mo e likely o in es in p oduc s ha
bene i hei communi y (Rehman, 2021). In collec i is socie ies, g oup achie emen s, p o-social p inciples,
and collec i e ad an ages hold g ea e signi icance compa ed o indi idual ewa ds. The p ese a ion o he
en i onmen is seen as a means o ad ance socie y as a whole (Diddi & Niehm, 2017). on he o he hand,
indi idualis ic cul u es end o exhibi an ego-cen ic alue o ien a ion, mo i a ing indi iduals o p ese e
he en i onmen based on pe sonal in e es s (Ama ulli e al., 2017). Some s udies ha e classi ied ce ain
cul u es as ‘ego-cen e ed’ while o he s as ‘eco-cen e ed’ (Henninge e al., 2016). Fo example, consume s
in luenced by F ench and I alian cul u es may exhibi a desi e o showcase hei en i onmen al awa eness
as a means o sel -exp ession and social s a us. They buy eco- iendly luxu y goods o be ecognised by
socie y as conscious buye s. In o he cul u es, he p ima y d i e s o sus ainable luxu y spending a e eco-
nomic alues, including supe io quali y, high end ashion b ands, p emium p ice and indi idual alues,
including hedonism, g ea e quali y, heal h, and well-being (McCo mick & Ram, 2022; Henninge e al.,
2016). In ligh o he exis ing li e a u e, he ollowing p oposi ions a e made:
P1a: The e is a conside able co ela ion be ween consume cul u e and sel -o ien ed (pe sonal) ideals when
buying sus ainable luxu y ashion i ems.
P1b: The e is a conside able co ela ion be ween consume cul u e and o he s-o ien ed (social) ideals when
buying sus ainable luxu y ashion i ems.
P1c: The e is a conside able co ela ion be ween consume cul u e and economic alues when buying sus ain-
able luxu y ashion i ems.
4.2. Sel -o ien ed (pe sonal) ideals
Sus ainabili y alue cen ed on onesel is linked o consume pe sonali y (Hennigs e al., 2013; Hyun & Ko,
2017). Consume s who p io i ize hemsel es emphasise he inne sel since hey a e mo e sel -awa e in p i a e
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