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Naujieji japonų kalbos kulinarijos skoliniai

Ugnė Tamašauskaitė

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U. TAMAŠAUSKAITĖ. New Japanese culinary borrowings 131 UGNĖ TAMAŠAUSKAITĖ Lietuvių kalbos institutas NEW JAPANESE LANGUAGES Culinary Debts KEY WORDS: Japanese new words, general language norms, usage, codification. With the spread of Japanese culture in Lithuania, new Japanese borrowings are also beginning to spread in our language, which have come through English1 and have not yet been included in the International Dictionary of Words2 (hereinafter – IDW) published in 2008. In recent years, Japanese catering establishments have become particularly popular in large Lithuanian cities, so the names of Japanese cuisine dishes have spread, most of which are so new that they have not even adapted to the Lithuanian language system. Observing the current abundance of Japanese borrowings from the New Japanese3 and looking at the borrowings from this language in the TZH, of which the most popular are now sports (aikido, bushido, judo), art (haiku, uta), religion (Shintoism), and the international words in the culinary field are only two – sake4 and sushi, we can see a clear dynamic of the language. In the list of foreign words approved by the State Lithuanian Language Commission (hereinafter – VLKK) on 20 December 2012 (see VLKK 2012), seven popular new Japanese borrowings with variants mirinas, onigiris, sashimi, soba, sushi, terijakis, wasabiai are culinary terms. Some of the debts discussed in the CRR have already matured, while the consumption of others is likely to crystallize5. The aim of this article is to examine, based on synchronic analysis, descriptive and comparative methods, the unexplored aspects of the Lithuanian language1 Since Japanese write in hieroglyphs, almost all Japanese borrowed words first enter the Lithuanian language in English transcription. 2 Already after the article was submitted to the press, a new, almost 5,000-word International Dictionary of Words was published, in which tofu is the only one of the ten borrowed words discussed in the article (see TŽZ 2013). 3 Based on the Lithuanian New Words Database (ND). 4 Japanese alcoholic drink; produced by fermentation of rice. 5 Plg. : In TŽŽ 2008 the foreign word is sushi, and in the latest TŽŽ 2013 it is already sushi. 132 LANGUAGE CULTURE | 86 The aim of this thesis is to identify the new culinary loanwords of Japanese language and to provide normative recommendations for their use. Articles dealing with foreign culinary foreign words of foreign origin have been published before (see Girčienė 2008, Lanza 2009), but Japanese borrowings in this field have not been discussed separately. The fact that most of the Japanese loanwords come from the culinary field is confirmed by the fact that in Lithuania there are more and more restaurants serving sushi, a specific Japanese dish made from raw fish or other seafood, and less often from vegetables or eggs, called simply sushines (e.g., sushines). Sushi is already an adapted Japanese word (see VLKK 2012), but there are many unadapted new Japanese borrowings, which are often the names of traditions (mostly festivals: Choyo, Dango, Sekku), clothing details (geta, kanji, tabi), art (kaidan, kaiseki, suiseki) or words naming distinguished or subcultures belonging to individuals (beifang, harajuku, hikikomori), but since this is not the subject of this article, these non-culinary terms are not discussed in greater detail. In this thesis, ten of the most popular Japanese culinary borrowings (together with variants) recorded in Lithuania until April 20138 in electronic space and in the press are analyzed: fugu, kaiseki, kaiseki-rioris, kombucha, misas, seitan, surimi, shabu shabu, tempura, tofu. The new borrowings in question are the names of dishes (fugu, kaiseki-rioris, shabu-shabu, tempura, tofu) and drinks (kombucha), meat substitutes (seitan, surimi), sauces (miso) or a specific dinner (kaiseki). Of course, there are more Japanese borrowings in this area (even the names of sushi types chirašis, makis, nigiris, temakis could be studied separately), but the article does not aim to discuss all the constantly increasing foreign words in Japanese cuisine. The new borrowings discussed in the following article are discussed in the following order: the title word is a Lithuanianized (sometimes coinciding with the English transcription) Japanese borrowing. In addition to the 6, in September 2012 Kaunas even hosted the first sushi festival (restoranai.lt). 7 Japanese sushi restaurants in Lithuania tend to be referred to by a few words with names, of which at least one element is the English transliteration of the Japanese word sushi, e.g. : Sushi Express, Sushi Sushi, Tom Sushi, Sushi House, Sushi Town, Dao-Sushi, Super Sushi, Oti Oti Sushi. 8 Kur teksto paskelbimo data aiški, informacija rašoma skliaustuose, greta šaltinio pavadiniSushi-Lt, IPU-sushi, mo. The earliest source dated 2005. The language of the examples has not been corrected except for spelling, punctuation and grammar errors. U. TAMAŠAUSKAITĖ. New Japanese culinary borrowings 133 heading word written accent. Interestingly, all seven conjugated nouns examined have a second pronunciation, i.e. the second syllable from the end, pronounced in their singular ending, is either a long strong (seitãną), or a short (kaisèkį, kaisèkį-riòrį, kombùčą, męsą, surrammį, tempùrą). In texts containing culinary borrowings, the graphic signs are left authentic, only the words themselves are highlighted in bold in the examples given by the author of the article. Each new loan is discussed individually and the overall conclusions are presented at the end. The usage and norming tendencies of Japanese borrowings discussed in this article should help to orient oneself when encountering other similar words coming from Japanese. FUGÙ Fugu is a fish (Takifugu niphobles) from which, after removing highly poisonous ingredients, a dish is made that is considered a delicacy. For example: : Perhaps all seafood has already become real fugu (a rather expensive delicacy considered poisonous fish, which needs to be prepared very carefully and professionally)? (Accessed 2011-04-09). A blowfish is a fish that has a deadly poison in its body. [...] As a result, a person who eats a badly prepared fugu fish will immediately receive a lethal dose of extremely strong toxins for which there is no antidote. The same name is also used for the luxurious dishes made from this fish, which, despite the risk of fatal poisoning, are very popular in Japan (balsas.lt 2008h09h23). Of the ten borrowed words examined in this article, the only fugu is usually not distinguished by quotation marks or italics either in online sources or in printed texts. This is probably because its spelling coincides with the English transcription, and it does not need to be adapted specifically for Lithuanian. Most of the normative masculine borrowings with the ending -u are unchanged and have a pronounced short final syllable (cf. DLKG 2006: 82)9. Thus, the authentic Japanese loanword fugu, which has no other spelling variants in Lithuanian, is proposed to be recognized as a normative one. 9 Also cf. with international words in culinary and various other fields: fondiù, intervistù, kakadù, tabù (TŽZ 2008). 134 LANGUAGE CULTURE | 86 KAISÈKIS (2) Kaiseki – a traditional Japanese lunch or dinner of many dishes. There are various options for this loan. In the Internet sources, it was possible to find only one endnote of the sär change, e.g. : In the evening you can order a traditional dinner – kaiseki (Lietuvos rytas 2012a09a15). Initially, it is not common to spell out less frequently used borrowed words, and therefore the spelling paradigm of this word is still incomplete. The non-syllabic variant kaiseki is more common, plg. : At the peak of Japanese cuisine is kaiseki (originated as an accessory to the tea ceremony), which consists of the ingredients, their processing, preparation and ceremony for several different dishes and reveals the subtle art of eating (blog. zigzag.lt 2012a04a17). Smaguris decided to punish himself by tasting a traditional Japanese Kaiseki menu (smaguris.blogspot.com 2012h11h21). Kaiseki cuisine is derived from the tradition of serving refined dishes with green tea to guests during formal meetings. The tea ceremony has preserved the traditional ritual of the old days to this day, but the refined kaiseki cuisine has emerged as a separate culinary phenomenon (Japanese cuisine. In view of the fact that Japanese loanwords with the ending -i (e.g., onigiri, sushi) are translated with the ending ajnis (onigiris, sušis, cf. VLKK 2012), it is proposed to consider the conjugated word kaiseki as the normative variant. ► October (2) In English, the borrowed word kaiseki-ryori refers to only one Japanese dish, which, although simple, is served very luxuriously before the tea drinking ceremony. In this sense, this new word came into the Lithuanian language. Here its spelling varies: kaiseki-riori is written with or without a dash; Following the English transcription, the long -ykaiseki ryori is retained in the second word, although kaiseki-riori is also written. These variants are usually used without the final consonant -s, e.g. : A great place for dinner (if you have money in your pocket), because here in the old merchant’s houses are located „highend“ restaurants, which specialize in „kaiseki ryori“ (mytrips.lt 2010 m. spalio mėn.). U. TAMAŠAUSKAITĖ. 135 Kyoto cuisine evolved into the sumptuous Kaiseki-riori served in high-class Japanese restaurants, and was strongly influenced by French cuisine in the 19th century. […] One example of kaiseki-riori. Covered containers contain soup and rice. Each dish is a separate piece of art (en.wikipedia.org). You will have lunch in the Japanese restaurant “Ryokan”, taste traditional “Kaiseki – riori” food, get acquainted with the feudal Japanese lifestyle in the hotel “Ryokan” (kelioniuakademija.lt). In Lithuanian, a hyphen is used to connect two syntactically equivalent nouns, meaning the name of one object or phenomenon (see VLKK KKB – http://www.vlkk.lt/lit/708). The fact that the borrowed word is written both with a hyphen (kaiseki-riori) and without a hyphen (kaiseki ryori) can be explained by the fact that the English transcription sometimes differs, i.e. the variant kaiseki-ryori (see en.wikipedia.org, openkyoto.com) and kaiseki ryori (see pref.kyoto.jp, kaveyeats.com) are used. Although, unlike the usage of the noun kaiseki, which sometimes has the ending -is, the biword combinations kaiseki-riori or kaiseki ryori in Internet sources are not recorded with the ending ungens, adapting the aforementioned loanword in Lithuanian, it is proposed to legalize the new word kaisekis-rioris and begin to conjugate it. Coffee (2) Kombucha is a fermented drink made from certain bacteria and fungi, drunk for its alleged health benefits. In the written Lithuanian language there are two variants of the usage of the new loanword: (a) kombucha litified according to pronunciation, or b) angang liska borrowed re-write kombucha, e.g. : a) Kombucha, or tea mushroom, is a fermented tea drink. Kombucha originated in China, but was forgotten for a long time. In the late 1980s, it became popular in California, USA, and gained attention in Japan and Russia. The tea fungus is a colony of acetic acid bacteria and mycelium. Its infusions are considered medicines and preventive measures against diseases, contain vitamins B and D (en.wikipedia.org). A cup of kombucha tea – a fermented drink (pasazas.lt 20130220). Westerners, saving our eyes and smells, sell “kombucha” filled in ordinary plastic bottles, even decorated with a beautiful label. Why buy it? It turns out, "kombucha" is an indispensable part of a healthy diet! (prigauk.lt). 136 LANGUAGE CULTURE | 86 Green tea, green lemon pieces, kombucha (Healthy Woman 2006 b) Gurman’s žalioji arbata su priedais kombucha [antraštė] Tai labai sena plačiai savo gydomosiomis savybėmis žinoma žalioji arbata. April). Pour rum, liqueur, kombucha and cranberry juice with a few ice cubes into a shaker and shake vigorously. After pouring into a cocktail glass, stir easily (mamosreceptai.lt). These variants may not always be conjugated, even in the same text, e.g. : This tea has a strong aroma derived from green tea, kombucha and guarana – native shrubs growing on the Amazon coast of South America. [...] Ingredients: green tea (68%), lemongrass, guarana (7%), peppermint, ginger, natural flavor, elderflower, black pepper, dried kombucha drink, lemon aloja (assorti.lt). Drink kombucha tea [caption] (alfa.lt 2012a07a10). Sometimes the non-syllable culinary term kombucha is written in capital letters and separated graphically, i.e., by quotation marks, e.g. : When making Kombucha tea, the so-called "tea mushroom" is used (lrytas.lt 20110615). The main variant of the norm is proposed to consider the liquored new borrowed kombucha. Tables (2) In Lithuanian language usage, only the non-syllable name of fermented soy paste miso, whose form coincides with the English transcription of Japanese language, e.g. : Miso, also known as soy paste, is made from soybeans that are boiled, salted, crushed and then mixed with a special yeast and stored in barrels where the fermentation process takes place (kulinare.lt 2010h07h20). [...] fermented soybean mass, called miso, helps to remove toxins and heavy metals from the body and reduces the negative effects of atomic radiation. Miso relieves hangover, helps smokers get rid of nicotine. Daily consumption of miso in small amounts reduces the risk of liver, colon U. TAMAŠAUSKAITĖ. New Japanese culinary borrowing 137 intestines, stomach cancer. Miso particularly restores the good flora in the intestine and regulates blood pressure (sakiaivsb.lt 2009a11a30). Miso is a mass of fermented soybeans and other grain crops, from which, together with vakame seaweed and shiitake mushrooms, the traditional Japanese miso soup is made. The Japanese are proud of their miso, as the French are proud of their wines and cheeses, the Italians of their olive oil and pasta, the Lithuanians of their black rye bread and mead. Miso is the basis of Japanese cuisine and one of the main reasons for Japanese people's good health and longevity. Japanese people eat miso soup for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and use it to prepare other dishes. [...] Attention! The moment is coming when miso will go to the soup! 2-3 tablespoons (or according to taste – more in winter, less in spring and autumn, not much in summer) of brown rice miso should be diluted with soup liquid in a separate container and poured back into the soup (gyva.lt). Sometimes, the loan of miso is given in quotes, e.g.: [...] soy paste soup "miso" with roasted eggplant and specific greens (mytrips.lt 2012a01a28). Given that the ending -as is added to borrowed words with an unpronounced ending -o (e.g., Spanish burrito, chorizo, Italian cappuccino, carpaccio) (see VLKK 2012), it is suggested to use the conjugated new borrowed word misas10. ► September (2) Seitan is wheat gluten used as a meat substitute. The English transcription of the Japanese loan word seitan is rarely used in Lithuanian, and if it is written, it is always graphically separated by quotation marks, e.g. : Buddhist vegetarian chefs are very creative in creating meat substitutes, such as wheat gluten seitan, soy tofu, agar and other plant-based products (mytrips.lt 20120128). In most cases, a Lithuanian ending is added to an adapted loanword and the word is conjugated, e.g. : What are these strange foods? [...] Seitan is a meat-like mass obtained by washing wheat flour (Lietuvos rytas 2007h05h08). 10 In December 2013, when the article had already been submitted to the press, it was noted that the list of foreign equivalents had also been supplemented by the borrowed word miso, for which the proposed equivalent was misas (see paragraph 10 above). VLKK 2013). 138 LANGUAGE CULTURE | 86 Seitan steak [header] [...] Cut the seitan into thin slices, fry in oil [...] (svajoke. wordpress.com 2013j02j25). Galūnę as turintį linksniuojamą japonų kalbos skolinį seitanas siūloma pripažinti norminiu. SURÌMIS (2) Surimi is minced fish meat, usually used as a substitute for crab meat. In the WLKK Consultation Bank, based on the recommendations of the European terminology dictionary Eurovoc, it is advised to use the variable form surimi, and products made of minced fish meat to be called surimi products (WLKK KKB; EV). The semantic distinction between the singular and plural forms of the new loanword exists in theory, but there is no tendency in usage to use the singular surimis only when referring to fish meat and the plural surimiai only when referring to products made from fish meat, for example: [...] surimi made from fishery products listed in Part I, authorised for import (eur-lex.europa.eu). [...] in accordance with Annex IIa to the Protocol, the document providing proof of origin for surimi products (CN code 16042005) shall be accompanied by documents proving that the fish constitutes at least 40 % of the weight of the surimi product [...] (Official Journal of the European Union L283 2011a10a29). [...] textiles and surimi [...] (Official Journal of the European Union L127 2011i05i14). Although the paradigm of the new conjugation of borrowed nouns is flawed, it becomes clear from the study of the usage of surimi that the singular conjugations of the noun surimi are used more frequently than the plural ones (cf. the examples of plural forms given above and see the table Conjugation of new borrowed nouns by vowels), e.g. : A snack made from concentrated fish proteins called surimi. Hungry Japanese find surimi snacks even in the smallest kiosks. The leaders of the Vičiūnų group, the leader in the production of surimi products, who visited the Land of the Rising Sun last year, decided to introduce these very popular snacks in Asian countries to Europe. (2011-09-03). U. TAMAŠAUSKAITĖ. 139 Surimi is a thoroughly cleaned fish meat, from which bones and fat have been removed, and it itself is crushed and turned into a paste. [...] Depending on the fish used to make the surim, it can be white, creamy, gray or pink (2012-09-08). Surimi is mainly made from inexpensive white sea fish – cod, pike perch, pike and the like (receptai.iki.lt 2010a03a31). The adapted loan has already been surimied, but still used and considered by the VLKK Konsultacijų bankas as unchangeable form of surimi, e.g. : Surimi products are becoming popular all over the world. [...] Surimi products are low in fat and calories, but do not contain biologically valuable substances. During the technological process they die, so they are often used as components for the preparation of various dishes. Surimi products are sold fresh and frozen (vmvt.lt 2013a03a10). [...] the term ‘surimi’ for the formed mixture of fish. No wonder that not elsewhere, but precisely in Japan in 1973 was invented and patented crab sticks product, a few years later introduced to the international market (e-vici.lt). Surimi has also been suggested to be called fake seafood dishes, fake seafood (Šiupienienė 2005: 37), but one-word borrowing is more convenient, so longer names have not been adopted. SÀBU SÀBU Shabu-shabu is a Japanese dish consisting of thinly sliced pieces of meat and vegetables served with sauces. In Lithuanian online sources and printed media, the variants shabu-shabu and syabu-syabu are distinguished by a dash and other graphical means (quotations, capital letters), cf. : Japanese cuisine is presented in sufficient detail, but there are still dishes that you want to know more about. One of such Japanese delicacies is a dish called shabu-shabu (syabu-syabu). [...] shabu-shabu became popular in Japan in the second half of the 20th century, when the restaurant Suehiro was opened. This restaurant patented the name of the dish in 1955. Later, the meal spread all over the world. It is said that nowadays shabu-shabu restaurants are often founded by people who no longer practice sumo 146 LINGUISTICAL CULTURE | 86 It is important to note that the genus of non-syllable nouns of foreign origin is expressed syntactically (according to the forms of words combined with nouns) and not morphologically (DLKG 2006: 64), therefore the expression of the syntactic genus of such nouns is very diverse, i.e. borrowed words are used in both masculine and feminine genus (DLKG 2006: 49). But all three non-syllable Japanese borrowings (along with the root-pronounced shabu shabu) have a vowel -u at the end, and with such an ending, the words are used as masculine (DLKG 2006: 64). CONCLUSIONS 1.The number of new culinary borrowings from Japanese is rapidly increasing, but from the examined examples of print media and Internet language it is clear that they are not always adapted to the Lithuanian language spelling and grammar system. 2. In usage, of all the various forms, the new Japanese borrowings of the authentic spelling (i.e., the English transcription) are the most functioning. In the absence of a Lithuanianised variant of the borrowed words, the simpler way is usually used, i.e. the words are simply distinguished graphically. 3.Seven out of ten studied borrowed nouns can be conjugated according to their grammatical structure, but the conjugation paradigm of all of them is still lacking in usage (mostly due to not being very common). Based on the analysis data, it is proposed to codify the new Japanese loanwords and add them to the list of foreign words equivalents approved by the State Lithuanian Language Commission. ŠALTINIAI DLKG 2006: Dabartinės lietuvių kalbos gramatika, Vilnius: Mokslo ir enciklopedijų leidybos institutas. EV – Europos žodynas Eurovoc. Prieiga per internetą: <http://www3.lrs.lt/pls/ ev/ev.main> (žiūrėta 20130315). ND – Lietuvių kalbos naujažodžių duomenynas. Internetinė duomenų bazė. Sud. Rita Miliūnaitė, Vilnius: Lietuvių kalbos institutas. Prieiga per internetą: <http://naujazodziai.lki.lt/> (žiūrėta 20130414). TŽŽ 2008: Tarptautinių žodžių žodynas, Vilnius: Alma littera. TŽŽ 2013: Tarptautinių žodžių žodynas, Vilnius: Alma littera. U. TAMAŠAUSKAITĖ. Naujieji japonų kalbos kulinarijos skoliniai 147 VLKK 2012: Valstybinės lietuvių kalbos komisijos 20121220 patvirtintas svetimžodžių atitikmenų sąrašas su paaiškinimais. Prieiga per internetą: <http:// vlkk.lt/lit/100213> (žiūrėta 2013 m. sausio–balandžio mėnesiais). VLKK 2013: Valstybinės lietuvių kalbos komisijos 20131128 patvirtintas svetimžodžių atitikmenų sąrašas su papildymais. Prieiga per internetą: <http:// vlkk.lt/lit/100213> (žiūrėta 20131227). VLKK KKB: Valstybinės lietuvių kalbos komisijos Kalbos konsultacijų bankas. Prieiga per internetą: <http://www.vlkk.lt/konsultacijos> (žiūrėta 2013 m. March ). LITTERACY Girčienė J., Liutkevičienė D. 2007: Use and norm of cheese names. – Language Culture 80, 110–122. Girčienė J. 2008: Foreign words in Italian cuisine. – Language Culture 81, 192– 204. Keinys S. 2007: Live Debt Adjustment and Application. – Man and Word 9(1), 70–74. Lanza S. M. 2009: On three borrowings from Italian cuisine. – Language Culture 308–316. 82, Lexicon 2005: Language Tips. Lexikon: Verwendung von Fremdwörtern, Vilnius: Institut für Wissenschaft und Enzyklopädie. Lexikon 2013: Language tips. Lexikon: Verwendung von Fremdwörtern, Vilnius: Science and Encyclopedias Publishing Center. Miliūnaitė R. 2009: Variants of the current Lithuanian language usage, Vilnius: Lithuanian Language Institute. Rudaitienė V., Vitkauskas V. 1998: New Borrowings in Western Languages, Vilnius: Enciklopedija. Šiupienienė A. 2005: To help menu organizers, Vilnius: Ciklonas. 1967: The Morphological System of the Lithuanian Language. – Lithuanian Language in Soviet Years, Vilnius: Lithuanian Language Institute, 108–128. Vaskelaitė R. 2001: Syntactic roles of non-Lithuanian uncalled words. – Language Culture 74, 43–52. Received 04/05/2013 Adopted on 20 December 2013 148 LANGUAGE CULTURE | 86 NEW LOANWORDS OF JAPANESE CUISINE Summary As the Japanese culture is gaining popularity, new loanwords from the Japanese language are paving their way into Lithuanian through the English language, with names of Japanese dishes becoming especially popular. The aim of this article is to provide a more extensive analysis of new loanwords of Japanese cuisine in Lithuania, which have not been previously thoroughly studied, based on synchronic analysis, descriptive and comparative methods and to provide the standardising recommendations for their use. The article analyzes ten more popular Japanese cuisine related loanwords (together with their variants) recorded in the electronic domain and the press until April 2013: fugu, kaisekis, kaisekis-rioris, kombuča, misas, seitanas, surimis, šabu šabu, tempura, tofu. The new loanwords have not yet been adapted; their Lithuanian spelling has not been established; therefore, one of the most numerous groups of Japanese loanwords under analysis in the printed media and the Internet language consists of the loanwords of authentic spelling (English transcriptions). A tendency can be observed that the names of loanwords which have not yet been adapted are usually simply distinguished graphically: in bold or italic or using quotation marks. To adapt the loanwords to the Lithuanian spelling and grammar system, it is sought to adapt them morphologically and orthographically; however, it is often the case that if they are adapted orthographically, they are not established morphologically or vice versa: if loanwords are adapted morphologically, they are not adapted orthographically. If attempts are made to adapt words under the morphological system, coincident endings of nouns are maintained, while foreign endings are rejected and replaced with corresponding Lithuanian endings. Most of the borrowed nouns under analysis can be declined by their grammatical structure; however, the declension paradigm of all the nouns under analysis is deficient due to their rather scarce prevalence. Based on analysis data, it is recommended to codify the provided new Japanese loanwords and to add them to the list of equivalents of loanwords approved by the State Commission of the Lithuanian Language. The tendencies of use and standardisation of Japanese loanwords analysed in the article should help to orient oneself after encountering other similar Japanese loanwords. KEYWORDS: new Japanese loanwords, norms of the standard language, actual use, codification. UGNĖ TAMAŠAUSKAITĖ Lietuvių kalbos institutas Petro Vileišio g. 5, LT-10308 Vilnius, Lithuania [email protected]