Skjold, Else
Doc o al Thesis
The Daily Selec ion
PhD Se ies, No. 33.2014
P o ided in Coope a ion wi h:
Copenhagen Business School (CBS)
Sugges ed Ci a ion: Skjold, Else (2014) : The Daily Selec ion, PhD Se ies, No. 33.2014, ISBN
9788793155671, Copenhagen Business School (CBS), F ede iksbe g,
h ps://hdl.handle.ne /10398/8992
This Ve sion is a ailable a :
h ps://hdl.handle.ne /10419/208909
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Else Skjold
Doc o al School in O ganisa ion
and Managemen S udies PhD Se ies 33-2014
PhD Se ies 33-2014
The Daily Selec ion
copenhagen business school
handelshøjskolen
solbje g plads 3
dk-2000 ede iksbe g
danma k
www.cbs.dk
ISSN 0906-6934
P in ISBN: 978-87-93155-66-4
Online ISBN: 978-87-93155-67-1
The Daily Selec ion
A collabo a ion wi h Design School Kolding
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THE$DAILY$SELECTION$
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Main!supe iso :!Esben!Rahbek!Gje d um!Pede sen!
Ex e nal!seconda y!supe iso :!Thomas!Binde !
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Design!School!Kolding!and!Doc o al!School!o !O ganisa ion!and!Managemen !S udies!a !
Copenhagen!Business!School!
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14 h!o !May!2014!
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Else Skjold
The Daily Selec ion
1s edi ion 2014
PhD Se ies 33-2014
© The Au ho
ISSN 0906-6934
P in ISBN: 978-87-93155-66-4
Online ISBN: 978-87-93155-67-1
The Doc o al School o O ganisa ion and Managemen S udies (OMS) is an
in e disciplina y esea ch en i onmen a Copenhagen Business School o
PhD s uden s wo king on heo e ical and empi ical hemes ela ed o he
o ganisa ion and managemen o p i a e, public and olun a y o ganiza ions.
All igh s ese ed.
No pa s o his book may be ep oduced o ansmi ed in any o m o by any means,
elec onic o mechanical, including pho ocopying, eco ding, o by any in o ma ion
s o age o e ie al sys em, wi hou pe mission in w i ing om he publishe .
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Fo ewo d$
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As!is! he!case!wi h!many!o he !PhD!p ojec s,! his!has!been!a!long!jou ney.!To!explain!
whe e! he!jou ney!ended,!i !migh !be!impo an ! o!men ion,! i s ,! ha ! he!schola ly!
disciplines!I!ha e!been!engaged!wi h!in!my! hesis! e lec ,!in!many!ways,! he!ins i u ions!
ha !I!ha e!been!a ilia ed!wi h.!S a ing!ou !wi h! he!humani ies,!in! he! o m!o !a!BA!in!
musicology!and!an!MA!in!Cul u e!and!Communica ion! om!Copenhagen!Uni e si y,!I!
ha e!been!in luenced!by! hese!disciplines!in! he!way! ha !I!unde s and!how!socioQ
cul u al!s uc u es!a e! o med!and!de eloped.!Wi h! his!pos Qcons uc ionis ! iew!in!my!
backpack,! he e!a e!ce ain!issues! ha !I!con inue! o!see! om! he! an age!poin !o !a!
humanis ic!and!cul u al!s udies!pe spec i e.!Second,!I!ha e!been!a ec ed!in!my!wo k!by!
he! ac ! ha !a e !ea ning!my!MA!deg ee,!I!wo ked! o !a!couple!o !yea s!as!a! ashion!
jou nalis ,!and!in! his!way,!I!came! o!lea n!a!g ea !deal!abou ! he! ashion!indus y! om!
wi hin.!Thi d,!I!was!employed!a !Design!School!Kolding! o!make!a! epo !on! he!
academisa ion!p ocess! ha !was! aking!place!du ing! he!2000s,!and!i s!possible!impac ,!
po en ials!and!limi a ions,!on! he!depa men !o ! ashion!a ! he!school.!Ou !o ! his!came!
my! epo ,!Fashion(Resea ch(a (Design(Schools!(Skjold!2008),!which!has!colou ed!my!
iew!on! he!connec ion!be ween! he!p oduc ion!and! he!consump ion!o !d ess!objec s!
ha !I!am!engaged!wi h!in! his! hesis.!Being!a ilia ed!wi h!Design!School!Kolding!has!also!
had!an!eno mous!impac !on! he!whole!way! ha !I!app oach! ashion!and!d ess! esea ch,!
in! he!sense! ha !I!d aw!on!me hods,! heo e ical!implica ions!and!discussions!s emming!
om!design! esea ch.!Fou h,!my!PhD!schola ship!is! unded!by!a!coQ inancing!be ween!
Design!School!Kolding!and!Copenhagen!Business!School.!This!means! ha !in! he!pe iod!
om!2008Q12,!I!was!si ua ed!pa ly!in! he!p og amme,!C ea i e(Encoun e s:( he(socio7
economic(o ganiza ion(o (c ea i e(indus ies,!which!was! unded!by! he!Danish!S a egic!
Resea ch!council!and!headed!up!by!P o esso !B ian!Moe an.!I !was!mainly!in!ex ension!
o !which!I!expe ienced!in! his!p og amme! ha !I!decided! o!s udy!male!' ee!agen s'! om!
he!c ea i e!indus y!as!my!sample,!and! o!engage!ac i ely!wi h!indus y!p ac ices.!Mos !
impo an ly,!i !was!also!he e! ha !I!decided! o!wo k!wi h!‘ he!wa d obe!me hod’.!
Th oughou !mos !o ! he!pe iod!o !my!PhD! ellowship,!I!ha e!had! he!associa e!p o esso !
a !Copenhagen!Business!School,!PhD!Lise!Sko ,!as!my!main!supe iso .!As!she!was!head!
o ! he! h ead!o ! ashion,!as!pa !o ! he!C ea i e!Encoun e s!p og amme,!she! amed!and!
ini ia ed! he!wa d obe!ne wo k,!o !which!I!was!an!ac i e!pa icipan ,!in! he!pe iod!o !

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2007Q12.!In! his!ne wo k,!I!ha e!me !people! ha !I! eel!a! e y!close!kinship!wi h!in!my!
esea ch.!This!is!pa icula ly! ue!o !my!con ac !wi h!indi iduals!like! he!associa e!
p o esso ,!PhD!Ingun!Klepp,! om!SIFO!in!No way,!P o esso !eme i us!a !No hwes e n!
Uni e si y!in!Chicago,!Ka en!T anbe g!Hansen,!Doc o !Ka e!Fle che ! om!London!
College!o !Fashion;!and!PhD!Philip!Wa kande ! om!S ockholm!Uni e si y.!I!wish! o!
hank! hem!all! o ! hei !inspi a ion!and! o ! he! hough s! hey!ha e!exp essed!in!
esponse! o!my!wo k.!I!also!need! o! hank!Lise!Sko ! o !da ing! o! ake!me!on!as!a!PhD!
ellow,!since!i !is!mainly!because!o !he !con idence!in!wha !I!was!doing! ha !I!ha e!been!
enable! o!c ea e! he!p esen ! hesis.!Lise!Sko !has!opened!doo s!o !unde s anding!and!
e lec ion! o !me! ha !will!always!be!pa !o !my!wo k,!and!I! hank!he !deeply! o ! his.!I!
would!also!like! o! hank!my!colleague,!Ulla!Ræbild,!who,!back!in!2006,!hi ed!me! o!wo k!
a !Design!School!Kolding.!Toge he ,!we! a elled! o!New!Yo k,!Ams e dam!and!London!
o! isi !design!schools!and! o!discuss!how! hey!combined!academia!and!design!p ac ice!
wi hin! he!a ea!o ! ashion!and!d ess.!We!ha e!no !ended! his!discussion!ye ,!and!I!hope!
we!ne e !will.!Du ing! he!compiling!o ! he! epo ,!I!was! o una e!enough! o!mee ! he!
head!o ! he!menswea !depa men !a ! he!Royal!College!o !A !in!London,!Ike!Rus ,!whom!
I! hank! o !his!a en ion! o!humou ,!beau y,!and!cle e ness.!I!also!wish! o! hank!my!
empa hic!and!pa ien !bosses,!who!ha e!con inued! o!suppo !me!all!along! he!way.!He e,!
I!am! hinking!pa icula ly!o !Ma hilde!Aggebo,! o me !head!o ! he!P oduc !Depa men !
a !Design!School!Kolding,!and! ec o !Elsebe h!Ge ne !Nielsen.!A !Copenhagen!Business!
School,!I!need! o! hank! he!head!o !ICM,!Do he!Salsko QI e sen,!who!ag eed! o!go!' he!
whole!way'! o !me,!a !a! ime!when!I!had!almos !gi en!up.!Also!in! his!p ocess,!I!can!ne e !
adequa ely!exp ess! he!ex en !o !my!g a i ude! o! he!PhD!coo dina o s!a !my!doc o al!
school,!Hans!K ause!Hansen,!and!la e !on,!Wencke!Gwozdz.!To!all!o !you,!I!can!say! ha !
you!may!ha e!only!been!doing!you !jobs,!bu !you!did! hem! e y!well!!I!wan ! o! hank!my!
ex e nal!seconda y!supe iso ,!associa e!p o esso !and!PhD!Thomas!Binde ,! om! he!
School!o !Design!a ! he!Royal!Danish!Academy!o !Fine!A s!in!Copenhagen,! o !helping!
me! ind!my!own! oice!Q!and!my!main!supe iso ,!Esben!Rahbek!Gje d um!Pede sen,! o !
s epping!in! o!pe o m!a!las !minu e! escue.!Then! he e!a e!my!close!colleagues!who!
con inue! o!help,!inspi e,!and!amuse.!F om!Design!School!Kolding:!Anne!Louise!Bang,!
Vibeke!Riisbe g,!Helle!G aabæk!and! he!whole! esea ch!depa men .!F om!Copenhagen!
Business!School:!F ede ik!La sen,!Janne!Meie ,!Jacob!Ion!Wille,!Ana!Alaco ska,!Nina!
Poulsen,!Fabian!Csaba,!and!B ian!Moe an,!and!admin!coo dina o !a !ICM,!Lise!Søs øm,!
who!has!always! aken!good!ca e!o !me.!Las !bu !no !leas ,!I!wan ! o! hank!my!people!a !
home,!Jon!and!Ada.!!!
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ENGLISH$ABSTRACT!
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In! his!PhD! hesis,!The(Daily(Selec ion,!I!will!be!add essing! he!o e all!ques ion!o !how!
esea ch!on!wa d obes!can!con ibu e! o!a!mo e!e ec i e!connec ion!be ween! he!
p oduc ion!and! he!consump ion!o !d ess!objec s.!The! hesis!builds!on!exempla y!
s udies!o !people!in! hei !wa d obes,!wi h! he!aim!o ! ocusing!on! heo e ical!and!
me hodological!conce ns!and!implica ions.!I !is!s uc u ed!in! h ee!pa s,!each!o !which!
consis s!Q!independen ly!Q!o !i s!own!in oduc o y! aming,!i s!own!li e a u e! e iew,!i s!
own!me hods!chap e ,!i s!own! ield!wo k!s udy,!and!i s!own!conclusi e! e lec ions.!As!
such,! he!pa s,!when! aken!as!a!whole,! ep esen !an!e ol ing!p ocess! h ough!which!my!
o e all! esea ch!ques ions!a e!being! il e ed!and! e lec ed.!My!schola ly!app oach!builds!
on! he! using!o ! ashion!and!d ess! esea ch!and!design! esea ch,!in! his!way!closing!a!
gap!be ween!d ess!p ac ice!as,!on! he!one!hand,!symbolic!discou se!and,!on! he!o he ,!as!
an!embodied!p ac ice! ha !is!'physically!embedded'!in! he!ma e ial!capaci ies!o !d ess!
objec s.!In!Pa !I,!I! ame! his! iew!by!add essing! he!concep !o !d essing!as!a!'bodily!
si ua ed!p ac ice',!as!de ined!by!En wis le!(2000),!combined!wi h!a!p ocessual! iew!on!
design!and!e e yday!p ac ices,!as!de ined!by!Sho e!e !al.!(2008).!Based!on! hese!
pe spec i es,!I!con ibu e!wi h!my!own!explana o y! amewo ks!o !'sa o ial!sys ems'!
and!'senso y!ancho ing',!on!which!I!base! he!en i e! hesis.!In!o de ! o!ope a ionalise!
hese! amewo ks!in!my! ield!wo k,!I!ha e!de eloped!a!pe sonal!me hodology! o ! he!
wa d obe!me hod! ha !emb aces! he!senso y!and! empo al!aspec s!o !d ess!p ac ice.!In!
Pa !II,!I! il e ! his! h ough! he! ehicle!o !a!collabo a i e!p ojec !wi h!Danish!designe !
Mads!Nø gaa d,!whe ein!I!obse e!how!d ess!objec s! om!Nø gaa d's!collec ion!a e!
app op ia ed!and!used!in! he!wa d obes!o !in o man s.!In! his!way,!I!poin ! o!
disc epancies!be ween! he!p oduc ion!and! he!dissemina ion!o !d ess!objec s! ha ! ake!
place!in! he! ashion!indus y,!and! o! he!ways! ha !people!use!and!expe ience! hese!
objec s!in! hei !e e yday!li es.!In!Pa !III,!I!conduc !a!se ies!o !‘wa d obe!sessions’!wi h!
in o man s!in!collabo a ion!wi h!a!designe ,!in!o de ! o!explo e!how!use!p ac ice!migh !
cas ! e lec ions!back!on o!design!p ocesses.!In!my!concluding!chap e ,!I!a gue! ha !my!
hesis!con ibu es!wi h!a!mo e! ace ed!and! e lec ed!se !o ! hinking!in! ela ion! o!d ess!
p ac ice,!and! ha ! his!way!o ! hinking!could!po en ially!b ing!abou ! adical!changes!in!
he!way!d ess!objec s!a e!cu en ly!p oduced,!dissemina ed!and!sold.!All! oge he ,! his!
hesis!shows! ha !in!o de ! o!es ablish!a!mo e! igh ! i !be ween! he!p oduc ion!and!
consump ion!o !d ess!objec s,! he e!is! e y!good! eason! o!look!in o! he!d ess!p ac ices!
ha !a e! aking!place!in!people’s!wa d obes.!!
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DANSK$RESUMÉ$
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Denne!Ph.d.Qa handling,!'De !daglige! alg',!handle !om!h o dan! o skning!i!ga de obe !
kan!bid age!med!en!bed e! o bindelse!mellem!p oduk ion!o ! o b ug!a !
beklædningsobjek e .!A handlingen!bygge !på!eksempla iske!s udie !a !in o man e !og!
de es!ga de obe ,!med!en!målsæ ning!om!a ! okuse e!på!de!me odiske!og! eo e iske!
implika ione !a !sådanne!s udie .!Den!ha !en! edel !s uk u ,!h o !h e !del!ha !sin!egen!
in oduk ion,!li e a u gennemgang,!me odedel,! el a bejde,!og!konklude ende!
e lek ione .!Som!sådan! ep esen e e !delene!i!samle ! o m!en! ullende!p oces!gennem!
h ilken!mine!g undlæggende! o skningsspø gsmål! il e es!og! e lek e es.!Min!
o skningsmæssige! ilgang!bygge !på!en!kombina ion!a !modeQ!og!beklædnings o skning!
og!design o skning,!og!jeg!søge !på!denne!måde!a !lukke!nogle!gab!mellem!
beklædningsp aksis!som!'symbolsk!disku s'!på!den!ene!side,!og!på!den!anden!side!som!
en!k opslig!p aksis!de !e !indlej e !i!beklædningsobjek e nes! ysiske!ma e iali e .!I!del!I!
udbygge !jeg!de e!syn! ed!a !kombine e!Joanne!En wis le's!syn!på!beklædningsp aksis!
som!'k opslig ! o ank e '!(En wis le!2000),!med!Sho e!og!and es!syn!på!design!og!
h e dagsp aksis!som!p ocessuel !(Sho e!m.! l.!2008).!Med!udgangspunk !i!de e!
bid age !jeg!med! o! o s åelsesmodelle ,!nemlig!'beklædningssys eme '!og!'senso isk!
o ank ing',!ud! a!h ilke!jeg!ha !opbygge !hele!a handlingen.!Fo !a !ope a ionalise e!
disse!modelle !i!mi ! el a bejde!ha !jeg!ud ikle !en!sæ lig!me odologi!i! o hold! il!
o skning!i!ga de obe !de !indbe a e !både!de !senso iske!og! empo ale!aspek !a !
beklædningsp aksis.!I!del!II! il e es!de e!syn!gennem!e !sama bejde!med!den!danske!
designe !Mads!Nø gaa d,!h o !jeg!obse e e !h o ledes!beklædningsdesign! a!Mads!
Nø gaa d's!kollek ione !app op ie es!og!b uges!i!mine!in o man e s!ga de obe .!På!den!
måde!iden i ice e !jeg!e !mis o hold!mellem!p oduk ion!og!dissemine ing!a !beklædning!
som!den! inde !s ed!i!modeb anchen!på!den!ene!side,!og!på!den!anden!side!h o dan!
beklædning!b uges!og!ople es!i!ga de oben.!I!del!III! o e age !jeg!en! ække!
ga de obeunde søgelse !i!sama bejde!med!en!designe ,!med!de ! o mål!a !ud o ske!
h o dan!beklædningsp aksis!kan!kas e! e lek ione ! ilbage!på!designp ocesse .!Endelig!
konklude e !jeg!h o dan!a handlingen!bid age !med!e !me e! ace e e !og! e lek e e !
syn!på!beklædningsp aksis!end!de !nu æ ende,!og!h o dan!de e!syn!po en iel !kan!
æ e!med! il!a !skabe! adiale! o and inge !i!den!måde!beklædning! o !inden æ ende!e !
p oduce ed,!dissemine e ,!og!solg .!Al !i!al ! ise !a handlingen,!a ! o !a !skabe!en! æ e e!
o bindelse!mellem!p oduk ion!og! o b ug!a !beklædning!e !de !en!yde s !god!g und! il!
a !s ude e!beklædningsp aksisse !i!ga de oben.!!
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no !necessa ily!co ela i e!wi h! he!way! hese!d ess!objec s!a e!used!in!people's!homes.!
In!o he !wo ds,! h ough!explo ing!how!people!ac ually!in e ac !wi h!d ess!objec s,!I!am!
ques ioning! he!lack!o !cohe ence!be ween! he!p oduc ion!and!consump ion!o !d ess!
objec s!as!i ! akes!place! oday.!
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I!ha e! ound!subs an ial!opaque!a eas!in! he! e ain!o ! esea ch!on! hese!ma e s.!In!
pa icula ,! he e!is!li le!discussion!abou !how!people!de elop!pe sonal! as e!pa e ns!
h oughou ! hei !li es! ha !make! hem!become!especially!a ached! o!ce ain!d ess!
objec s,!while!o he s!hang!passi ely!inside! hei !wa d obes.!While!schola s!such!as!
Ingun!Klepp!(2001/2010)!and!Ka e!Fle che !(2008/2014)!ha e!s a ed! o!map!ou ! hese!
mechanisms,!I!ha e! ound! ha ! he e!is!ac ually!a!conside able!body!o !li e a u e!on! he!
ma e !a ailable!wi hin! he! ield!o !design! esea ch.!The!p oblem!is,!howe e ,! ha ! his!
li e a u e!is!no ! ela ed! o!d ess!objec s,!bu ! o!indus ial!design!o !p oduc !design.!
Howe e ,!since!I!basically!conside !clo hing!and!d ess!p ac ice!as!cons i u ing!an!
agg ega ion!o !design!objec s,!wha !ce ainly!makes!sense! o!me!is! he!impe us! o!
explo e!my! esea ch!objec i es! h ough!engaging!wi h! his!body!o !knowledge.!This!has!
been!my!pe sonal!depa u e!and!app oach,! h ough!which!I!ha e! ied! o!cas !some!ligh !
on!senso y!and! empo al!aspec s!o !d ess!p ac ice!which!I!ha e! ound! o!be!missing!in!
he!schola ly! esea ch!on! ashion!and!d ess.!In! he! ollowing,!I!ha e!sepa a ed! he! wo!
dis inc ions!o !' ashion'!and!'d ess'!in!o de ! o!mo e!e ec i ely!explain!wha !I! ind! o!be!
missing!he e,!be o e!I!launch!in o!explaining!wha !I! ound! o!be!mo e!app op ia e,!and!
how!I!migh !go!abou !sugges ing!al e na i es.!!
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Fi s !o !all,!in!much!o ! he! esea ch!on! ashion,! he!explana o y! amewo k! o !d ess!
p ac ice!seems! o!me! o!be! a ! oo!simplis ic.!La gely,! he! eigning!assump ion!he e!
appea s! o!be! ha !all!d ess!p ac ice!can!be!explained! h ough!concep s!such!as! ashion!
and!an iQ ashion,!and!besides! his!dicho omy,! he e!is!also! he(un ashionable!(i.e.!Chu chQ
Gibson!2000;!Lipo e ysky!1994).!This!places! he!d ess!p ac ice!o ! he! as !majo i y!o !
he!wo ld's!popula ion!as!being!in e io !and!indi e en .!Th oughou ! he! hesis,!I!will!
a gue! epea edly! ha ! his!gap!could!be!a oided!by! iewing!people's!d ess!p ac ice,!
ins ead,! h ough! he!concep !o !d ess(s yle,!unde s ood!he e!as!an!allQencompassing!
amewo k!unde !which!is!placed!a!se !o !a ailable!cul u al!sc ip s!such!as! ashion.!This!
leads!me! owa d!making!an!inqui y!in o!how! he!concep !o !' ashion'!has!come! o! o m!
he!explana o y! amewo k! o !d ess!p ac ice!a !la ge.!My!objec ion! o! his!is! ha ,!in!
ac ,! he!logics!o !' ashion'!can!help! o!explain!only!a!dis inc !se !o !skills,!codes!and!
p ac ices,!which!ha e!been!de eloped!in!Eu ope!–!and!la e !in! he!Uni ed!S a es!Q!

!
15!
because!o !pa icula !socioQeconomic!de elopmen s! ha !ha e!been! anspi ing!in! hose!
pa icula !loca ions.!As!Rocamo a!(2009),!I!see!bo h!image y!and! he! he o ic!o ! ashion!
as!s ill!being!deeply!in luenced!by! he!legacy!o !Pa is,!and! he eby!all!who!engage!in!
ashion! he eby!insc ibe! hemsel es!in o!an!inhe en ly!F ench!' ashion!discou se'!
consis ing!o ! ashion!commodi ies,!p ac ices,!agencies,!and! he!physical!space!and!
his o y!o !Pa is!i sel .!E e !since! he!'bi h'!o ! ashion,!which!is!gene ally! ega ded!as!
ha ing! aken!place!a ! he!Bu gundian!cou s!in! he!14 h!Cen u y,!a!na u alisa ion!o !
Pa is!as! he!epicen e!o ! ashion!has!been!pe pe ua ed,!e en!i !new! ashion!'clus e s'!
ha e!been!e ol ing! h oughou ! he!cou se!o ! he!20 h!Cen u y.!All! his!means! ha ! he!
concep !o ! ashion!is,!ine i ably,! ied!closely! oge he !wi h! he!idea!o ! he!F ench,!elegan !
woman,!such!as! he!cou isanes!and!g and(dames,! o!'la!passan e'!(Baudelai e!1860!in:!
Rocamo a!2009)!and! he!'Pa isian!chic'.!Moe an!has! u he !highligh ed!how!such!ideas!
a e!s ill!being! ep oduced!in!some!o ! he!mos !impo an !and!dominan ! ashion!
magazines!o ! he!wo ld,!inso a !as! he!p ac ices!a ound! hese!magazines!a e!s ill!based!
on!classical!sociological!di ides!be ween!gende s!de i ing! om!19 h!Cen u y!Pa is!
(Moe an!2008).!All!o ! his!gi es! ise,!in!my! iew,! o!a!lack!o !di e si y!which!limi s! he!
explana o y!po en ial!o ! he!whole!concep !o !' ashion'.!The e!a e!app oxima ely!7!
billion!people!in! he!wo ld,!and!su ely! hey!canno !all!be!occupied!wi h!ma e s!o !
(Wes e n)! ashion!while! hey!a e!ge ing!d essed.!!
!
Ano he ! ho ny!p oblem!is! he! ac ! ha !‘ ashion’!is!based!on! he! alues!o !change!and!
newness,!as!mos !schola s!wo king!wi hin! he!a ea!would!seem! o!ag ee!upon.!E e !
since! he!14 h!Cen u y,! he!dissemina ion!o !new! ashions!has!inc eased.!As!al eady!
s a ed!by!Simmel,!i !is!inhe en !in! he!na u e!o ! ashion! ha !i !is!being!dissemina ed!
om! ashion!'leade s',!and! ha !i !emana es!ou wa ds!and!downwa ds!(Simmel!1905!in:!
Ca e !2003).!The!p oduc ion!and!consump ion!o ! ashion!was!al eady,!a ! his!poin !in!
ime,!a!ma ke !o !s a us!no !only! o ! he!indi idual,!bu !also! o ! egions,! hei !
go e nmen al!ins i u ions,!and! he! espec i e!indus ies.!S ill! oday,! ega dless!o !
whe he !new! ashions!o ! ends!' ickle!down'!(Veblen!1899),!'bubble!up'!(Polhemus!
1997),!o !' ickle!ac oss'!(Blume !1986![1969]),! hey!always!ha e!a!cen e,!and!a!
pe iphe y.!Some! ake! he!lead,!o he s! ollow.!In! his!way,! he!concep !o ! ashion!is!
ine i ably! ied! oge he !wi h!Wes e n!ideals!abou !democ acy!and!change!in! he! e y!
bes ,!posi i is !sense,!whe e!all!p og ess!is!good.!Acco dingly,!i !is!no!wonde ! ha !
ashion!has!come! o!be!such!a!dominan !'sys em',!whe e! he! alues!and!mo als!o !socie y!
a e!displayed! h ough!image y,!design,!ins i u ionalised! i uals!like! ashion!weeks!and!
ashion!shows,!embodied!p ac ices!o !posing,!mo ing!and!ges u ing!in!ce ain!manne s,!
!
16!
and! he!ope a ional!beha iou !o ! he! ashion!indus y!i sel .!All!which,!when! aken!
oge he ,! ame!and! o m! he!' ashion!sys em',!as!i !has!been!de ined!by!Ba hes!(1983),!
and!la e !on,!by!Kawamu a!(2005).!Wha !pa icula ly!Kawamu a!highligh s!is! ha !
ashion!is!no !only!abou !d ess:!i !is,!in!poin !o ! ac ,!'in angible'!and! unc ions!as!socie al!
d i e ! o !an!ex ensi e!asso men !o !a eas!such!as! ood,!a chi ec u e,!poli ics,!e en!
academia.!As!such,! ashion!is!no !jus !abou !d ess:!i !is!a!se !o ! alues,!codes!and!
p ac ices! h ough!which!we! hink!and!beha e!as!mode n,!Wes e n!people.!To!my!mind,!
he e!is!no hing‘w ong!wi h! his!explana o y! amewo k,!in!i sel .!I !explains!pe ec ly!
well! he!cul u al!mechanisms! ha !d i e!a!lo !o !beha iou s! ha !ha e! o!do!wi h!d ess!
p ac ice.!Consequen ly,!I! ully!acknowledge! he!sys em!o ! ashion!as!being!a!highly!
dominan !cul u al!sc ip .!My!claim!is,!howe e ,! ha !i !is!no ! he!only!cul u al!sc ip !a !
play!in!people's!d ess!p ac ice.!This!is!a! iew! ha !I!ha e!buil !on! he! ac ! ha !all! ends!
and! ashion!de i e! om!some!kind!o !cen e.!Someone!s a s!wea ing!some hing,!and!
o he s! ind!i ! o!be! e ching!and!a ac i e!and! ollow!along.!Wha !I!wish! o!add ess!in!
his! hesis!a e! hese!o he s,!who!a e!ine i ably:!mos !people.!Inspi ed!by!Simone!de!
Beau oi 's!dis inc ion!be ween!'man'!and!his! emale!'o he '!(Beau oi !1989),!i !is!all!o !
he!people!who!a e!no ! ashion!leade s,!who! ollow! ends!and! ashions!a !wha !is!
some imes!a! e y! emo e!dis ance,!and!who!a e,!all!in!all,!indi e en ! o! he!whole!
cha ade!o ! ashionabili y,!whom!I!see!as! ashion's!'o he s'.!S anding!in! he!pe iphe y!o !
ends!and! ashions! ha !a e!ini ia ed!by! ashion!leade s,!wha !such!people!do!is! o!
accommoda e!and!app op ia e,!and!make! hei !own!logics!o !d essing.!I !is! hese!
p ac ices! ha !I!wish! o!explo e! u he ,!and! his!is!why!I!p opose! o!look!mo e!deeply!
in o! he!concep !o !s yle:! he!logics!o ! ashion!a e!abou !wha !happens!in! he!epicen e!o !
new! ends,!while! he!logics!o !s yle!a e!abou !wha !happens,!as!people!app op ia e!only!
some!o ! hese! ends!and!con ey! hem!in o! hei !own!logics!o !d essing.!I !is! he!la e !
mechanism! ha !I! ind!in e es ing.!!!
!
As!I!s a ed!ou !saying,! esea ch!on! ashion!and!d ess!seems! o!mo e,! oughly!speaking,!
in o! wo,!o e all! ields;!on! he!one!hand,! he! ield!o !soQcalled!' ashion!s udies',!which!
explo es! ashion!wi h!a!capi al!'F';!and,!on! he!o he !hand,! he e!a e!museologis !and!
an h opological!app oaches! ha !explo e! he!use!and!ma e iali y!o !d ess!objec s,!o en!
in!a!nonQWes e n!con ex .!Eiche !and!RoachQHiggins!posi ion! hemsel es!he e!in! he!
sense! ha ! hey!challenge!a!Eu ocen ic!explana ion!o !d ess!p ac ices! o med!by!
' ashion'.!As!an!opposi ion! o! his,! he! amewo k! hey!ha e! o med!wi h! hei ! e m,!
'd ess',!is!wideQ anging.!As!I!see!i ,!i !in i es! ende s!on!new!explana ions!o !d ess!
p ac ice! ha !add ess,!in!mo e!uni e sal!way,!wha !we!wea !–!o !a !leas !in!a!mo e!
!
17!
ace ed!and! e lec ed!way! han!wha ! he!limi a ions!lying!wi hin! he!concep !o ! ashion!
allow! o .!As!such,! hei !de ini ion!o ! he! e m!is!open!and!in i ing!on!pu pose:!'d ess!o !
an!indi idual!is!an!assemblage!o !modi ica ions!o ! he!body!and/o !supplemen s! o! he!
body'!(Eiche !&!RoachQHiggins!1992,!in:!Johnson!and!Fos e !2007).!In! his!way,! he!
concep !o !'d ess'!opens!up! o !al e na i e!pe spec i es!on!d essing! ha !a e!no !
in luenced!by!Wes e n! ashion!only,!bu ! a he !by!all!kinds!o !cul u al!sc ip s!
su ounding! he!wea e .!The e o e,! o!widen! he!scope!o !how!d ess!p ac ices!can!be!
unde s ood,!I!ha e!chosen! o!de ine!wha !people!wea !as! hei !d ess(s yle.!Acco dingly,!I!
belie e! he e!is! oom! o!encompass!all!o ! he!aspec s!and!cul u al!sc ip s!a ec ing! he!
in o man s!whom!I!ha e!s udied.!!
!
Wha !I!wish! o!achie e!in! his! hesis!is! o! o m!an!al e na i e!unde s anding!o !d ess!
p ac ice! ha !can!amalgama e! hese! wo!concep s,!and! ha !can!also!‘ca ch!up’!on!some!o !
he!aspec s! ha ! all!in!be ween! hem.!As!such,!I!am!no ! eally!opposing!o !challenging!
he!concep !o !' ashion'.!No !am!I! oicing!any!objec ion! o!e hnog aphic!app oaches! o!
'd ess'.!My!main!agenda!is! o!show! ha !bo h!concep s!play!a! ole!in! he!mul iQ ace ed!
ichness!o !people's!d ess!s yle.!And!I!also!wan ! o! o!show!how!a!widening!o ! he!scope!
o ! hese!ma e s!can!place!a!ques ion!ma k!beside!cu en !indus yQ!and!educa ionalQ
p ac ices!o ! ashion.!!
!
!
Explana o y( amewo k(
(
!
Wha !I!ha e!done!in! his! hesis!is! o!s udy!people!in! hei !wa d obes! h ough!de eloping!
wo!explana o y!models,!which!I!belie e!can!open!up! his!deba e!mo e!widely.!The! i s !
model!o !'sa o ial!sys ems'!has!been!de eloped!on! he!a o emen ioned! e lec ions!on!
' ashion'!as!a!highly!impo an !albei !limi ed!concep .!By!way!o !al e na i e,!I!p opose!
he!idea!o ! iewing!' ashion'!as!a!cul u al!sc ip !alongside!o he s,!which!a ec !how!we!
d ess!in!ou !e e yday!li es.!Seeing! ashion!as!a! e y!dis inc !'sa o ial!sys em',!wi h!i s!
own,!dis inguishable!and! i ualised!skills,!codes!and!p ac ices!he e!pa es! he!way! o !an!
unde s anding! ha !emb aces!o he !'sa o ial!sys ems'!as!well.!By!looking!deeply!in o!
he!p ac ices!o !my!in o man s!in! hei !wa d obes,!and!by!quali ying! his! h ough!simila !
s udies!and! eadings,!I! en u e! o!sugges ! ha !sys ems!such!as!'popQ!and!coun e Q
cul u e',!'menswea / ailo ing',!and!'spo swea '!a e!d i en!by!skills,!codes!and!p ac ices!
ha !a e!essen ially!di e en ! han! hose! ha !d i e! he!sys em!o !' ashion'.!Some!o ! hese!
!
18!
sys ems!co espond!much!mo e!wi h! he!concep !o !'s yle',!as!i !has!been!de ined!by!
Ba hes!(2006).!Ba hes!a gues! ha !opposed! o!' ashion',!s yle!ope a es!in!much!slowe !
cycles!o !change.!One!migh !say!e en! ha !i !is!ac ually!d i en!by! he! i ue!o !s abili y!
(e en!i ! his!s abili y!can!be!adjus ed!sligh ly,! om! ime! o! ime).!Wi h! his,!I!am!
e e ing! o! he!way!people's!d ess!p ac ice!is!main ained!and!adjus ed! h ough! eQ
enac ing!and! ep oducing! he!skills,!codes!and!p ac ices!o ! he!'sa o ial!sys ems'!
a ound!d essing! ha !a e!a ailable! o! hem.!!
!
As!such,!I!see!my!model!o !'sa o ial!sys ems'!as!being!aligned!wi h! he!'Cope nican!
e olu ion'!sugges ed!by!Busch.!In!his!a icle,!"Re isi ing!A i ma i e!Design"!(2009),!
Busch!opposes! he!way! ha ! he!schola ly! ield!o ! ashion!has!abs ained! om! aking!any!
pa !in!c i ical!discussions!abou !design.!Wha ! his!implica es!is!how! he!whole!concep !
o ! ashion!s ands!as!being!highly!closed!a ound!i sel ,!and!as!such,!i !is!de ached! om!
ac ual!consume !p ac ices.!In!Busch's!mind,! his!is!wha !p e en s! he! ashion!indus y!
om!connec ing!mo e!closely!wi h!consume s! h ough!design! o !'long!lo ing!
commi men ':!design!objec s! ha !a e!p oduced! om! he! e y!ou se ! o!be!al e ed,!
mended,!adjus ed,!sha ed!and!leased!be ween!consume s.!Wha !Busch!p oposes!is!a!
mo e! la !and!democ a ic!s uc u e! ha !adop s! he!openQsou ce!app oach!o !compu e !
games!and!social!media,!o ! he!ideals!o !coQc ea ion! om!pa icipa o y!design.!In!o he !
wo ds,!he!wishes! o!posi ion!consume !p ac ices!cen ally,!and! o!see!' ashion'!in! he!
pe iphe y,!ins ead!o ! aking! he!mo e! adi ional!app oach!whe e!' ashion'!is!always!in!
he!cen e!and!emana es!ou wa ds.!I !is! his! iew! ha !I!ha e!engaged!wi h,!and! his!is!
why!I!p opose! o!look!close !in o!people's!pe sonal!'d ess!s yle',!as!a!kind!o !umb ella!
concep !unde !which!lies!a!se !o !'sa o ial!sys ems',!each!one! ep esen ing!i s!own!
dis inc !skills,!codes!and!p ac ices.!!
!
While! he!d ess!p ac ices!o !my!in o man s!a e!d i en! o wa d!by! he!way! hey!na iga e!
h ough!Q!and!manage!Q! he! a ious!'sa o ial!sys ems'!a ailable! o! hem,! hey!a e!also!
deeply!a ec ed!by! hei !senso y!sys ems.!Tha !is! o!say,!by! he!way! ha !ce ain!d ess!
objec s! eel!'w ong'! o!wea ,!while!o he s! eel!' igh '.!As!a!second!explana o y!
amewo k,!I!ha e!sugges ed! ha !my!model!o !'senso y!ancho ing'!migh !help!explain!
how!people!make! hese!decisions,!which!a e!o en!mo e!o !less!nonQ e lec ed,!and!based!
on!p e ious,!embodied!expe ience.!Wha !is!impo an !he e!is! ha ! hese!p ac ices! ake!
place! h ough! ime!and!space.!When!people!make!decisions!in! hei !wa d obes,!i !seems,!
om!wha !I’ e!lea ned! om!my!own!s udy!and!simila !ones,! ha ! hey!do!so!in!a!way!
ha !is!based!on!pas ,!p esen !and! u u e!ideas!o !who! hey!a e.!In! his!way,!pas !
!
19!
wa d obes,!in! he!shape!o !indi idual!d ess!objec s,!can!de ine!wha ! eels!'w ong'!o !
' igh '! h oughou !an!en i e!li e ime!o !d essing.!This!is!whe e! he!soQcalled!'wa d obe!
me hod'!becomes! ele an ,!because!i !is!in! he!wa d obe! ha !people!s o e!and!keep!old!
and!new!objec s.!The! empo al!aspec !o !my!'senso y!ancho ing'!model!is!impo an ,!
because!i !is!linked!wi h!people's!onQgoing!p ac ices,!which,!in! he!cou se!o ! ime,! u n!
in o!habi s!and! ou ines!o !d essing! ha !a e!o en!unQ e lec ed,!bodily!sensa ions!o !
eeling!' igh '!o !'w ong':!judgemen s! ha !a e!based!on!pas !and!p esen !expe iences!o !
d essing,!and! e lec ions!on! u u e!p ac ices! ha ! ela e! o!ideas!o !sel .!!
!
Th oughou ! his! hesis,!i !is! hese! wo!models! ha ! o m!my!app oach! o!my! heo e ical!
e lec ions,!as!well!as! o!my!o e all!me hodology!and! ield!wo k.!Below,!I!will!b ie ly!
ske ch!ou ! he! heo e ical!depa u e! om!which! hey!ha e!eme ged,!while! u he !
elabo a ion!on! his!ma e !will!be!p esen ed!con inuously! h oughou ! he! hesis,!and!
pa icula ly!in! he!in oduc o y!sec ion!o !pa !I.!!
!
To!be!able! o! ame!my! wo!explana o y!models!o !'sa o ial!sys ems'!and!'senso y!
ancho ing',!my!pe sonal!con ibu ion! o! he!wa d obe!me hod!is!conjoined!wi h!a!
dis inc i e!combina ion!o !En wis le's!concep !o !d essing!as!a!'bodily!si ua ed!p ac ice'!
(En wis le!2000),!and!Sho e!e !al.'s!p ocessual! iew!on! he!connec ion!be ween!design!
and!e e yday!li e!(Sho e!e !al.!2007).!En wis le's!concep !o !d essing!as!a!'bodily!
si ua ed!p ac ice'!de i es! om! ashion!and!d ess! esea ch.!Wi hin! his!a ea!o ! esea ch,!
Eiche !in!pa icula !has!pu sued! he!senso y!expe iences!o !d essing,!as!she! alks!abou !
he!impo ance!o !including!all! i e!senses!in!schola ly!app oaches! o!d essing;!no !only!
sigh ,!bu !also! ouch,!smell,!hea ing!and! as e!(Eiche !e !al.!2000![1973],!in:!Johnson!and!
Fos e !2007).!E en! hough!I! ully!app ecia e! he! ichness!o !he !‘ i eQsenses’!app oach,!I!
s ill! ind!i !mo e!app op ia e,!in! his!con ex ,! o!subsc ibe!wholehea edly! o! he!one!pu !
o h!by!En wis le.!Alongside! he!schola ly!con ibu ion!o !a!w i e !like!C aik!(1994),!
En wis le!places! he!body!as! he!connec ing!node!be ween!cul u e!and!indi idual!
nego ia ions!o !appea ance.!As!such,!she! educes!a! iew!o !d ess!p ac ice! ha !is!me ely!
linked! o!signQmaking,!and!places!i !close ! o! he!whole!way! ha !people!expe ience! hei !
being!in! he!(physical)!wo ld.!Since!I! ega d!d ess!p ac ice!as!being!si ua ed!no !only!in!
he!body,!bu !also!in!place!and! ime,!I!ha e!combined! he! iew!o !En wis le!wi h!Sho e!e !
al.'s! iew!on!e e yday!p ac ices!de i ing! om!design! esea ch.!Toge he ,! hey!
e ec i ely!exp ess!my!on ology.!Benea h!my!o e all! iew!on! hese!issues!lies!Ingold's!
de ini ion!o !'dwelling',!which!posi s! ha !people!a e! hemsel es!pa !o ! he!physical!
wo ld,!and! ha ! hey!do!no !s and!ou side!o !i !(Ingold!2000/2004/2008).!This!

!
20!
implica es! ha !design!objec s!a e!no !me ely!'ins umen s'! o!use! o ! a ious!pu poses,!
bu !a e! a he !ex ensions(o (sel ,! h ough!which!we!expe ience! he!wo ld.!Fu he mo e,!
Ingold!emphasises! ha ! his!in e ac ion!is!no ! ozen!in! ime.!I !is!p ocessual,!and! akes!
place!in!onQgoing!mo emen s!o !in e ac ion.!Wha !I!migh !ha e!done!was! o!pu sue!
Ingold's!ex ensi e!ideas!o !'dwelling'! h oughou !my!wa d obe! esea ch.!Howe e ,!I!
ound! ha ! his!migh ! e y!well!ha e!led!me!as ay! om!wha !I!was!ac ually!in e es ed!in!
om! he!ou se ,!inasmuch!as!Ingold's!main!agenda!is!p eoccupied!wi h! he!Ca esian!
decoupling!o !body!and!mind! ha !ha e!been!pe cei ed!as!a!ci ilised!app oach!
h oughou ! he!pas ! ew!cen u ies!o !Wes e n!his o y.!A!deep! ocusing!on!such!an!
agenda!would,!in!my!mind,!di use!my!in e es !in!people's!d ess!p ac ices,!and!in! he!
way! hey!de elop! hei !pe sonal!d ess!s yle.!!
!
!
Engaging(wi h(design( esea ch(
(
(
Sho e!e !al.'s! eading!o !design!and!e e yday!p ac ices!leads!me! o!Taylo !and!he !call!
o !mo e!objec Qbased!app oaches!in! ashion!and!d ess! esea ch,!which!she!belie es!
migh !close! he!gap!be ween,!on! he!one!hand,! esea ch!on! ashion!and,!on! he!o he ,!
an h opological!and!museological!app oaches.!Howe e ,!when!Taylo !w i es!abou !
d ess!as!objec s,! he e!is!an!immanen !unde s anding!o !objec s!as!museum!a e ac s,!o !
as!e hnological!objec s!o !s udy,!which!si ua es! his!pa icula ! e m!in! he!la e ! ields!o !
esea ch!(Taylo !2002).!In!o de ! o!explo e! he!gap!lying!be ween! hese! ields,!and!in!
o de ! o!posi ion!my! esea ch!as!a!possible!way!o !b idging!disciplina y! enches!and!
mo ing! o wa d,!I!ha e!shaped!my!unde s anding!o !objec Qbased!d ess! esea ch!
h ough! he! apidly!de eloping! ield!o !design! esea ch.!I!posi ion!my!own! esea ch!in!
his! ield! h ough! he! amewo k!o !F ankel!&!Racine!(2010),!who!di ide!design!
esea ch!in o! h ee!o e all!app oaches:!!
!
Q!'clinical'( esea ch!o !' esea ch( o (design',!which!add ess!'design!p oblems! ha !a e!
speci ic!and!indi idual!cases! equi ing!in o ma ion! o ! ha !unique!si ua ion'!
!
Q!'applied( esea ch'!o !' esea ch( h ough(design',!which!add ess!'gene al!classes!o !design!
p oblems!o !p oduc s'![ ha ]!'o en!gene a e! he!kind!o !knowledge! ha !designe s!can!
apply!in! hei !clinical! esea ch'!
!
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21!
Q'basic( esea ch'!o !' esea ch(abou (design',!which! ocus!‘on! he!empi ical!examina ion!o !
undamen al!p inciples![which]!lead! o!de eloping! heo ies!abou !design! ha ![ha e]! a Q
eaching!implica ions! o ! he!discipline'!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(ibid:!3Q8)!
!
I!insc ibe!my! esea ch!in! he! amewo k!o !'basic! esea ch',!seeing! ha !F ankel!and!
Racine!call!a en ion! o! he! ac ! ha !much!o ! his! esea ch!is!being!conduc ed!unde ! he!
banne !o !o he !disciplines,!and! u he ! ha !i !add esses!wha !Buchanan!calls!'design!
inqui y',!which!is!in!sea ch!o !'an!explana ion!in! he!expe ience!o !designe s!and! hose!
who!use!p oduc s'!(Buchanan!2007:58,!in!ibid:7),!and!which!p oduces! heo y!as!ou pu .!
As!such,! his!p ojec !is!aimed!a ! o ming! heo e ical!concep s,!analyses!and!pe spec i es,!
which!in o m!bo h!a!designe ly!and!a!schola ly!pe spec i e.!!
!
Unde nea h! his,!I!am!also!building!on!elemen s! om!'applied! esea ch',!since! his!
includes! he! ield!o !'pa icipa o y!design'.!Wi hin! his!line!o ! esea ch,!as!i !has!been!
de ined!by!F ankel!&!Racine,!I!subsc ibe! o!Sande s!&!S appe s'!de ini ion!o !coQdesign!
as!'humanQcen ed'!design! esea ch,!because!i !e ol es!a ound! he!way!people!in e ac !
emo ionally!wi h!design!objec s.!These!schola s!pe cei es!an!in o man !as!an!'expe !o !
his/he !expe ience',!and!no !me ely!as!a!'passi e![objec ]!o !s udy'!(Sande s!&!S appe s!
2008:8),!because! hey!build!on!a!Scandina ian,!'democ a ic'!app oach! o!use Qcen ed!
esea ch,!which! ega ds! he!s udied!subjec s!as!c ea i e!'pa ne s'.!In!a!coQdesign!
p ojec ,!such!'pa ne s'!would!be!pa !o ! he!c ea i e!p ocess!o !gene a ing!design!ideas,!
p o o ypes,!and!wo k!p ocesses,!based!on! hei !own!expe iences,!d eams,!o !mo i es.!
This! esea ch!p ojec !is!no !a!coQdesign!p ojec ,!bu !I!do!see!mysel !as!s udying!people's!
' eelings,!pleasu e,! alue!and!d eams'!in! hei !in e ac ion!wi h!d ess!objec s.!By!using!
he! e m,!d ess(objec ,!ins ead!o !wo ds!like!‘clo hing’,!‘ ashion!clo hing’,!‘appa el’,!
‘ga men ’,!‘a i e’,!‘cos ume’,!o !‘ou i ’,!I!ha e!made!an!a emp ! o!amalgama e! he! e m,!
'D ess',!wi h! he! e m,!'design!objec '.!By!using! he!wo d,!'objec ',!ins ead!o ,! o !example.!
'p oduc '!o !'a e ac ',!I!place!my! ocus!on! he!ma e ial!capaci ies!o ! he!objec ,!such!as!
colou ,!shape,! ex u e,! ab ic,!o !su ace.!In! his!way,!I!aim! o!s eng hen!my!'design!
inqui y'!by! ocusing!on! he!design!quali ies!o !a!gi en!d ess!objec ,!and!on!how! hese!
quali ies!play!a! ole!in! he!way! he!gi en!d ess!objec !is!pe cei ed!and!app op ia ed!in!
he!wa d obe!by!i s!wea e .!!
!
To!syn hesise!he e,!my!aim!in! his! hesis!is! o!explo e!mo e!deeply! he!in e ela ion!
be ween!wea e !and!d ess!objec s,!as!i ! anspi es!in!daily!p ac ices!in! he!wa d obe.!
!
22!
Th ough!my!explana o y! amewo ks!o !'sa o ial!sys ems'!and!'senso y!ancho ing',!I!
wish! o!shake!up!gene al!no ions!abou !' ashion'!and! hei !connec ion! o!d ess!p ac ice,!
and! o! il e ! his!app oach! h ough! he!p ac ices!o ! ashion!i sel .!I!will!do!so!by!
sugges ing!a!'Cope nican! u n'! ha !places! he!emphasis!o ! esea ch!no !on! ashion,!o !on!
ashion!leade s,!bu !on!all! he! ollowe s!who!accommoda e!and!app op ia e!cul u al!
sc ip s! o !d essing!(such!as!' ashion')!in o! hei !own!pe sonal!d ess!s yles.!As!such,! he!
ollowing!o e all! esea ch!ques ion!is!wha !I!aim! o!answe :!
!
RQ!"How!migh ! he!wa d obe!me hod!con ibu e! o!a!deepe !unde s anding!o !d ess!
p ac ice,!and!con ibu e! owa ds!b inging!abou !a!mo e!' igh ! i '!be ween! he!
p oduc ion!and!consump ion!o !d ess!objec s?"!
!
(
S uc u e(and(o e all(app oach(
!
!
As!can!be! ead!in! he!abo e! ex ,! his! hesis!cons i u es!a!hyb id!s udy.!I!ha e! ound! his!
o!be!necessa y!in!o de ! o! ind!my!own!pa h! h ough! he! h ee!la ge! ields!o ! esea ch!
ha !I!ha e!been!engaged!wi h!he e.!This!manoeu e!has!made!i !possible! o !me! o!
w i e!up!a!con ibu ion! ha !is!deeply!engaged!wi h!impo an !discussions!going!on!in!
each!o ! hese! esea ch! ields.!Howe e ,!a ! he!same! ime,!I!ha e! ound!i !necessa y!a !
imes! o! ee!mysel ! om! hese!discussions,!in!o de ! o!adhe e!closely! o!my!s a ed!
objec i es.!In! his!way,!I!escape! he!sa e y!and!po ency!a o ded!by!s anding!in!a! i mly!
g ounded!way!in!a!single! ield!and!speaking! om! he e,!and!I!am!su e! his!implica es!a!
isk!o !app oaching!each!discussion! oo!supe icially.!Howe e ,!I!s ill!conside !mysel ! o!
be!a!schola !o ! ashion!and!d ess! esea ch,!e en! hough!a e !all! his,!I’m!no !su e!wha !
he!app op ia e!label! o !my! esea ch!is!going! o!be:!pe haps,!a(schola (o (d ess(s yle.!I!
will!lea e!i !up! o!my! eade s! o!make!such!judgemen s.!Hope ully,! he! li a ious!na u e!
o !my! hesis!will! ind!i s!own!sense!o !di ec ion! h ough!my!o e all!on ology,!and!will!
come! o!pe mea e!my!epis emological!s andpoin .!Th ough!my!on ology,!I!si ua e!mysel !
be ween!a!subjec i is !and!an!objec i is !s andpoin !o !sociology.!On! he!one!hand,!my!
'sa o ial!sys ems'!model!b ings!me!close! o!an!epis emological!aim!o !unde s anding!
pa e ns!o !symbolic!discou se,!in! he!sense! ha !!
!
"The(social(wo ld(is(a(pa e n(o (symbolic( ela ionships(and(meanings(sus ained( h ough(a(
p ocess(o (human(ac ion(and(in e ac ion.(Al hough(a(ce ain(deg ee(o (con inui y(is(
!
23!
p ese ed( h ough( he(ope a ion(o ( ule7like(ac i i ies( ha (de ine(a(pa icula (social(
milieu,( he(pa e n(is(always(open( o( ea i ma ion(o (change( h ough( he(in e p e a ions(
and(ac ions(o (indi idual(membe s.(The( undamen al(cha ac e (o ( he(social(wo ld(is(
embedded(in( he(ne wo k(o (subjec i e(meanings( ha (sus ain( he( ule7like(ac ions( ha (
lend(i (endu ing( o m.(Reali y( es s(no (in( he( ule(o (in( ule7 ollowing,(bu (in( he(sys em(o (
meaning ul(ac ion( ha ( ende s(i sel ( o(an(ex e nal(obse e (as( ule7like"(
!!!!!!!!!!!!!(Mo gan!&!Smi cich!1980:494)!
!
This! iew!is!essen ial! o!my!app oach! o!my!in o man 's!managemen !o !appea ance.!
The!space!o ! he!wa d obe!s ands!he e!as! he!si e!whe e!symbolic!discou ses!a e!being!
managed,! eQenac ed!and!app op ia ed!by! he!wea e .!Simul aneously,!my!sa o ial!
sys ems!model!is!seen! h ough! his!de ini ion!o ! he!'sys em!o !meaning ul!ac ion'! ha !
appea s! uleQlike,!and!is!sus ained! h ough! a ious!p ac ices!su ounding!d essing.!!
!
On! he!o he !hand,!my!on ology!b ings!me!close! o!an!objec i is ,! ealis !app oach!such!
o ! ha !o !Schwand ,!who!p oposes! ha :!!
!
"Scien i ic( ealism(is( he( iew( ha ( heo ies( e e ( o( eal( ea u es(o ( he(wo ld.('Reali y'(he e(
e e s( o(wha e e (i (is(in( he(uni e se((i.e.,( o ces,(s uc u es,(and(so(on)( ha (causes( he(
phenomena(we(pe cei e(wi h(ou (senses"!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(Schwand !1997:133!in:!Maxwell!2012)!
!
Only,!as!Ingold!does!Q! h ough!his!concep !o !'dwelling',!I!include!wi h! hese!'phenomena!
we!pe cei e!wi h!ou !senses'!ou !own!bodies,!since! hey!a e!also!' eal! ea u es!o ! he!
wo ld'.!Wha !I!see!in!my!s udies!o !people!in! hei !wa d obes!is! ha ! hey!engage!no !
only!wi h!d ess!objec s!as!a e ac s! ha ! hey!make!use!o !in!o de ! o!es ablish!symbolic!
meaning,!bu ! hey!also!engage!wi h! hem!as! el !and!sensed!ma e ial!ex ensions!o ! his!
meaning.!As!such,!jus !like!En wis le,!I!subsc ibe! o!a!b idging!o ! he!symbolic!discou se,!
on! he!one!hand,!and!a!sociology!o ! he!body,!on! he!o he .!!
!
In!o de ! o!answe !my!o e all! esea ch!ques ion,!I!ha e!di ided! he! hesis!up!in o! h ee!
pa s,!each!o !which!cons i u es!a!uni y!o !unde s anding:!each!pa !has!a!
con ex ualisa ion!and!a!li e a u e! e iew,!an!indi idual! esea ch!ques ion,!a!me hods!
chap e ,!a! ield!wo k!chap e ,!and!a!concluding!chap e .!In! his!way,! he! hesis!as!a!
whole! ep esen s!a! olling!p ocess,!in!which! he!o e all!s uc u ing!ideas!a e! e lec ed!
and!pu !in o!pe spec i e! h ough!a!se !o ! ela ed!ques ions.!I !is!impo an ! o!no ice!he e!
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30!
In oduc ion!!
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My!poin !o !depa u e! o ! his! i s !pa !o !my! hesis!is! o!explo e!and!de elop!a!deepe !
unde s anding!o !people's!e e yday!d ess!p ac ice.!In!o de ! o!do!so,!I!s a ed!ou !by!
conduc ing!a!pilo !s udy!o !one!in o man !and!his!wa d obe,!and! hen!I! epea ed! he!
s udy,!wi h!mino !adjus men s,!wi h!one!mo e!in o man .!On! he!basis!o ! he!coding!
p ocesses!o ! hese!s udies,!I!de eloped! heo e ical! amewo ks!wi h!which!I!could!
explain!wha !I!had!encoun e ed.!These! amewo ks!la e ! unc ioned!as!building!blocks,!
on! he!basis!o !which!I!could!con inue!conduc ing! he! emaining!s udies!o ! he! hesis.!
P io ! o! he!s udies,!I!had!a!se !o !p eQunde s andings! ha !e ol ed!a ound! he!concep !
o !p ac ice.!Whe eas! his!concep !is!wideQ anging!and!enmeshed!in!a! a ie y!o !schola ly!
disciplines,!my!wish!has!been! o!de elop!a!de ini ion! ha !could!emb ace! he(ac (o (
d essing!as!well!as! he!in e ela ion!be ween!wea e !and!objec ,!place!and! ime.!In! his!
in oduc ion,!I!will!ske ch!ou !my!own!app oach! o!s udying!people's!d ess!p ac ice!
h ough! he!soQcalled!'wa d obe!me hod',!a!me hod!de eloped!by!schola s!o ! ashion!
and!d ess! ha !in e links! he!mic oQp ac ices!going!on!in!people's!indi idual!wa d obes!
wi h!la ge !mac oQs uc u es!o !socie y.!Wi h!Ingold's!on ology!o !'dwelling'!in!mind,!I!
ha e! ound!how! he!wa d obe!me hod!engages!wi h!d ess!objec s!as!ma e ial!a e ac s!
o!be!highly! ele an .!De ining!my!app oach! o!p ac ice,!I!ha e! ound!i !use ul! o!look!
close !a !Joanne!En wis le's!concep !o !d essing!as!a!'bodily!si ua ed!p ac ice'!(En wis le!
2000),!which!easily!adop s! o! he!ideas!eme ging! om! he!emo ional!and!bodily! u n!
wi hin!design! esea ch.!Secondly,!I!ha e!made!use!o !Elizabe h!Sho e's!concep !o !
'e e yday!p ac ice',!because!I!see!in! his!a!close!connec ion!wi h! he!call! o !a! ocus!on!
' he!o dina y'!and! he!e e yday!in!ce ain! ac ions!o ! ashion!and!d ess! esea ch.!Wha !
binds! hese! wo!de ini ions!o !p ac ice! oge he !is!an!in e es !in!how!people!in e ac !
wi h!design!objec s!in! hei !e e yday! ou ines,!and!in!how! hese! ou ines!a e!bo h!
embodied!in!and! e e en ial! o!cul u e!a !one!and! he!same! ime.!Wi h! his!
unde s anding!as!my!o e all! amewo k,!I!elabo a e!how!all! his!is!pu !in!play! h ough!
combining! isual!an h opology!wi h! ele an !me hods! om!pa icipa o y!design,! hus!
si ua ing!my!own!me hodology!as!a!combina ion!o ! hese!schola ly!app oaches.!A e !my!
ield!wo k!chap e ,!I!will!be!summa ising!my! heo e ical!coding!in!a!concluding!chap e .!!
!
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31!
The(wa d obe(me hod((
!
!
I !looking!a ! he!e ymological!dic iona y,! he!wo d!'wa d obe'!eme ged!in!la e!14 h!
Cen u y!F ance!as!a! a ian !o ! he!olde !F ench!'ga de obe'!('ga de !la! obe';!s o e/!
p o ec !+!ga men ).!This!o iginal!exp ession!s ood! o !a!"place!whe e!ga men s!a e!
kep ",!and!was!ea lie !on!simply!"a!p i a e!chambe ".!The!English!exp ession!de i es!
om!wa de !( o!keep,!gua d),!and! obe!(ga men ),!signi ying!" oom!whe e!wea ing!
appa el!is!kep "!(e ymologyonline.com).!Basically,! he!wa d obe!is! he!place!whe e!
people!s o e! hei !d ess!objec s,!bu !also!whe e! hey!manage!o !'gua d'!i ,!in!di e en !
ways,!depending!on! he!amoun !o !space!a ailable,!and!on! hei !abili y! o!keep!o de ,!
manage! hei !laund y,!acqui e!new!–!and!ge ! id!o !–!objec s! ha !a e!no!longe !in!use.!
Wha ! hey!also!'gua d'!is! hei !sel Qimage,!which!is!why! hey!wo k!ou ! a ious!s a egies!
o !co e ing!up!wha ! hey!don' !like!abou ! hei !bodies,!o ! a ious!s a egies! o !
enhancing!wha ! hey!would!like! o!show!in!public.!The!same!is! he!case,!on!a!mo e!
symbolic!le el,!inso a !as! he!wa d obe!is! he!place!whe e!people! ans o m! hemsel es!
om!p i a e! o!social!beings.!Thus,! hey!emphasise! ea u es!abou ! hemsel es! ha ! hey!
would!like!o he s! o!app ecia e,!and!co e !up!wha ! hey!wish! o!hide.!Because!o ! his,!
he!wa d obe!is!an!ex emely!in e es ing!place! o!s udy! om! he! espec i e! an age!
poin s!o !a! a ie y!o !schola ly!disciplines.!Wi hin! he!wa d obe!ne wo k! ha !was!ac i e!
om!a ound!2008Q2013,!schola ly!app oaches!ha e!included,! o !example,!economic!
his o y!(Ul äng!2013),!e hnology/consume !s udies!(Klepp!2001/2010),!gende !s udies!
(Wa kande !2013),!social!an h opology!(Sko !2011),!a !his o y!(Sigu jónsdó i !e !al.!
20011),!and!design! esea ch!(Skjold!in:!Somme lund!(ed.)!2011).!Ve y!impo an !
con ibu ions! o !es ablishing! he!wa d obe!me hod!we e!made!p io ! o! he!
es ablishmen !o ! he!wa d obe!ne wo k! om!wi hin!consume ! esea ch!(Kleine,!Kleine!
&!Allen!1995),!an h opology!(Guy,!G een!&!Banim!2001;!Hansen!2003),!design! esea ch!
(Raunio!2007;!Fle che !&!Tham!2004),!cos ume!his o y!(Tu ney!&!Ha den!2007),!and!
ma e ial!cul u e!s udies!(Woodwa d!2007).!Wha ! hese!s udies!sha e!is!an!in e es !in!
he!ma e iali y!and!physical!s o age!o !d ess!objec s,!and!an!in e es !in! he!way! he!
objec s!a e!handled,!wo n,!main ained,!acqui ed,!and!disca ded!by! hei !wea e s!in! he!
wa d obe.!When!we! ake! he! ich!p esence!o !many! a ious!disciplina y!app oaches! o!
he!wa d obe!in! he!wa d obe!ne wo k!in o!conside a ion,!i !is!ob ious! ha ! he!
objec i es!o !s udy!ha e! a ied.!F om! he!pe spec i e!o !an!economic!his o y!app oach,!
Ul äng!(2013)!has!looked!a ! he!connec ion!be ween!d ess!objec s!in! he!wa d obe!as!
pe sonal!p ope y!on! he!one!hand,!and!commodi y!on! he!o he .!Th ough!he !analysis!
!
32!
o !es a e!in en o ies!compiled! h oughou ! he!19 h!Cen u y!in! he!pa ish!o !Lillhä dal!in!
Sweden,!Ul äng!documen s!how!indus ialism!changed!gende ! oles!and!consump ion!
pa e ns!in! he!a ea,! h ough!documen ing! alua ions!o !d ess!objec s!in!wa d obes!in!
he!pe iod.!Sigu jónsdó i ,!Langkjae !and!Tu ney!(Sigu jónsdo i !e !al.!(eds.)!2011)!
ha e!examined!pho og aphy!in! ela ion! o! he!clo hed!body,!showing!how!i !has!been!a!
signi ican !medium!in! he!c ea ion!o !socioQcul u al!discou ses.!These!men ioned!
app oaches!ha e!colou ed!wha !I!ha e!done!in! his! hesis,!bu !I!will!now! u n! o! he!ones!
ha !I! ind!pa icula ly!co ela i e!wi h!my!own!wo k.!I!will!he e!add ess!wha !I!see!as!
ele an !con ibu ions!in! ela ion! o! he!si e!o ! he!wa d obe!as!p i a e,!social,!and!
physical!space!–!and!mos !impo an ly,!con ibu ions! ha !deal!wi h! he!linking!o !d ess!
p ac ice!and! empo ali y.!!
!
As!an!o e all! amewo k! o !unde s anding! he!connec ion!be ween!d ess!p ac ice!and!
ime!and!space,!I! ollow!Kleine,!Kleine!&!Allen's!me apho !o ! he!wa d obe!as!a!'pe sonal!
a chi e!o !museum'.!In! hei !s udy,!which!has!been!conduc ed!wi hin! he!discipline!o !
consume ! esea ch,! hey!see! he!wa d obe!as! ep esen ing!'p esen !sel ,!pas !sel es! ha !
a e!being!ca ied!on,!pas !sel es! ha !a e!being!le !go,!an icipa ed!sel es'!(Kleine,!Kleine!
&!Allen!1995:328).!Wha !I! ind!pa icula ly!in e es ing!abou ! his! iew!o ! he!wa d obe!
is! he!way! ha ! he!au ho s!le !go!o !a! iew!on! he!objec Qsubjec ! ela ion!as!po aying!
some!kind!o !au hen ic!inne !co e,!a ound!which!a e!'laye s!o !dec easing!au hen ici y'!
(ibid:341),!applying!ins ead! he!li e!na a i e!as!a!way! h ough!which! he!con en !o ! he!
wa d obe!is!pe cei ed.!As!such,! he!con en !o !people's!wa d obes!is!cons an ly!being!
eQe alua ed,!as! hey!mo e! h ough!li e!and! eQde ine! hemsel es.!He e,!Kleine!e !al.!see!
luc uan ! e sions!o !'me'!such!as!"who!I!am,!who!I!ha e!been,!who!I!am!becoming,!
and/o !who!I!am!no!longe "!(ibid:328).!Simila !obse a ions!ha e!been!made!by!
an h opologis s!Guy!and!Banim!(in:!Guy,!G een!and!Banim!2001),!who! ound,!in! hei !
s udy!o !women!in! hei !wa d obes,!ca ego ies!o !d ess!objec s! ep esen ing!' he!woman!
I!wan ! o!be',!' he!woman!I! ea !I!could!be',!and!' he!woman!I!am!mos !o ! he! ime'.!These!
ypologies!each! ep esen ed!aspec s!o ! he!in o man s’!iden i y!wo k,!ca ego ised!by! he!
au ho s!as:!!
!
1.!con inuing(iden i ies:!”whe e!women! e e ed! o!noQlonge Qwo n!clo hing!in!ways! ha !
e lec ed! hei !con inuing!connec ion!wi h!a!sel Qimage! hey!had!achie ed! h ough!using!
hose!clo hes”!
2.!discon inued(iden i ies:!"noQlonge Qwo n!clo hes!which! ep esen ed!a! o me !iden i y!
ha ! he!women! el !was!no!longe ! iable!o !wished! o!dis ance! hemsel es! om”!
!
33!
!
3.! ansi ional(iden i ies:!”noQlonge Qwo n!clo hes! ha !a e!pe cei ed! o!be!’on! he!mo e’!
in! he!sense! ha ! hei ! iabili y! o! hei !owne s’!sel Qimage!is!being!conside ed!bu !has!
no !been! ully! esol ed”!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(ibid:!205Q14)!
!
Wha ! his!s udy!displays!is! he!ad an age!o !s udying!people!a ! he!si e!o ! he!wa d obe:!
h ough!obse ing!people's!emo ional!and!physical!in e ac ions!wi h!wha ! hey!s o e,!
d ess!objec s!can!be! ega ded!as!ma e ial!e idence!o !li ed!li es! ha !a e!immedia ely!
accessible!a ! he!si e!o ! he!s udy,!and!can!lead!beyond!people's!own! a ionalisa ions.!
Wha !is!essen ial!in! he!p ocesses! ha !a e!li ed!ou !in! he!wa d obe!is! ha ! hey!a e!all!
cen ed!on! he!ac !o !d essing.!I !is!when!people!ge !d essed! ha ! hey!a e!deciding,!each!
and!e e y!day,!wha ! o!selec ! om! hei !collec ion!o !d ess!objec s.!Following!Le eb e,!
Sko !(2010)!sugges s! ega ding! he!ac !o !d essing!as!one! ha !is!always!insc ibed!in!
ime!and!space,!as!'punc ua ions!in! he! low!o !e e yday!li e"!(ibid:6),!and! u he !builds!
he !unde s anding!o ! he!si e!o ! he!wa d obe!on!Le eb e's!idea! ha ! he!men al,! he!
social!and! he!physical!in e sec !in!space!(Le eb e!1991/2004,!in:!ibid).!O !Sko 's!
dis inc ions,!I! ind!'social!space:! ime!and! ela ionships'! o!be!pa icula ly!in e es ing.!
He e,!Sko !es ablishes!a!connec ion!be ween! he!wa d obe!in!i s!o iginal,!e ymological!
meaning!o !a!'p i a e!chambe ',!whe e!people!keep!and!gua d!all!kinds!o !sec e s!and!
eelings!o !shame!and!doub !Q!physical!and!symbolical!ones!Q!and! he!way! hey!make!use!
o !d ess!objec s!as!' aming!de ices',! h ough!which! hey!unde s and!and!manage! hei !
own!social!posi ion.!He e,!Sko !d aws!on!Go man's!concep !o ! on !s age!and!back!
s age,!which!is!ob ious!inasmuch!as!i !di ec s!aspec s!o !g ea ! ele ance! o! he!wa d obe!
me hod.!In!his!book,!The(P esen a ion(o (Sel (in(E e yday(Li e,!Go mann!leads!o !wi h!
he! ollowing!mo i a ion:!!
!
"When(an(indi idual(appea s(be o e(o he s(he(will( y( o(con ol( he(imp ession(he(gi es(o (
7( his( epo (is(conce ned(wi h( he( echniques( ha (pe sons(employ( o(sus ain(such(
imp essions."(((((((((((((((((((
(((((((((((((((((((((Go mann!1990![1959]:26)!
!
As!ins umen s! o !deploying! hese! echniques,!Go mann!sugges s!'clo hing,!sex,!age,!
acial!cha ac e is ics,!size,!looks,!pos u e,!speech!pa e ns,! acial!exp essions,!bodily!
ges u es,!and! he!like'!(ibid:34).!As!such,!I!ag ee!wi h!Sko ! ha ! he!space!o ! he!
!
34!
wa d obe!belongs! o!back!s age!ac i i ies!o !p epa ing! his!'pe sonal! on '!and!o !
managing! he!'d ama u gical!p oblems!o !p esen ing! he!ac i i y'!(ibid:26).!!
!
Sko 's!app oach!is! aken! u he !by!Woodwa d!(2007).!Al hough!she!pa icipa ed!only!
b ie ly!in! he!ne wo k,!she!has!made!a!eno mously!impo an !con ibu ion! o! he!
wa d obe!me hod,!based!on!a!ma e ial!cul u e!s udies!pe spec i e.!In!he !s udy!o !
young!women!in! hei !wa d obes,!Woodwa d! ook!he !poin !o !depa u e!in!' he!
wa d obe!momen ':!!
!
"This('wa d obe(momen ',(which(is(expe ienced(a (leas (once(a(day,(media es(clo hing(as(
appea ance(managemen (and(public(display(and( he(p i a e,(in ima e(domain(o ( he(
bed oom(and(wa d obe.(When( he(ou i (is(wo n,(unless(i (p o es( o(be(a( ailu e,(all(o ( hese(
anxie ies(a e(concealed;(i (is(in( he(unseen(domain(o ( he(bed oom(whe e( he(anguished(
momen s(occu .(As(women(choose(ou i s( om( hei (wa d obe,( hey(s and(looking(a ( hei (
e lec ion(and(wonde (abou (whe he ( hey(ha e('go (i ( igh '( o (a(pa icula (occasion."!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(Woodwa d!2007:3)!
!
Basing!he ! iew!o ! he!wa d obe!as!people's!'pe sonal!collec ion',!Woodwa d!looks!a !
aspec s!o !d ess!p ac ice!such!as!how! he!women!s udied!some imes!b eak! he!' ules'!o !
ashion! o!c ea e!new!looks,!and!how! hei !sel Qpe cep ion!is!played!up!agains ! he!gaze!
o !o he s.!Woodwa d's!basic!objec i e!is! o!con ibu e!wi h! alid! e lec ions!on! he!way!
women!nego ia e!beau y!ideals! h ough!wha ! hey!wea .!By!doing!so,!she!poin s!ou !how!
he!p i a e!mic oQspace!o ! he!wa d obe!is!connec ed! o! he!mac oQle el!o !socie al!
cu en s,!and!how! his!in e connec ion!is!mos ! i idly!played!ou !in! he!ac !o !ge ing!
d essed.!Wha !I! ind! o!be!qui e!in e es ing!in! e ms!o !me hod!is!how!she!documen s!
d ess!objec s!in! he!wa d obe!and! he!s o ies! hey!a e!associa ed!wi h,!as!well!as!li e!
s o ies!o ! he!in o man s.!She!has,!mo eo e ,!asked!he !in o man s! o!keep!d ess!dia ies,!
building!in! his!way!an!unde s anding!o ! he! alues,!mo als!and!e hics! ha !a ec !wha !is!
wo n!on!a!daily!basis.!A!simila !kind!o !appea ance!managemen !has!also!been!
desc ibed!by!Wa kande !(2013),!who,! om!a!gende !s udies!pe spec i e,!has!been!
looking!a ! he!way! ansgende ed!people!in!S ockholm!nego ia e!appea ance.!O !
pa icula !in e es !in! ela ion! o!my!own!s udy!is! ha !he!has!made!obse a ions!on!how!
he!space!o ! he!wa d obe!can!be! iewed!as!a!kind!o !ex ension!o ! he!iden i y!wo k!
going!on!in! he!d ess!p ac ices!o !his!in o man s:!how!déco ,! u nishing,!pos e s,!boudoi !
se Qup,!and!e en! ypes!o !wa d obe!close s!can!be! iewed!as!being!closely!connec ed!
!
35!
wi h!ideas!o !sel .!In!Wa kande 's!s udy,!he!has!made!e hnog aphic!obse a ions!and!
in e iews!in! he!clubbing!milieu!o ! ans es i es!in!S ockholm,!a!scene! ha !is!no mally!
closed!o ! o !ou side s,!as!well!as!mo e!inQdep h!semiQs uc u ed!in e iews!wi h!a! ew!
selec ed!in o man s!in! hei !wa d obes.!Wa kande ! e ms!his!s udies!in!wa d obes!
'o ganic!wa d obe!s udies',!as!an!upsho !o ! hese! e lec ions:!
!
"The( e m(‘o ganic’( e e s( o( he(p ocess(o (le ing( he(ga men s(become( he(s a ing(poin (
o (imp o ised(and(pe sonal(con e sa ions(abou (s yle(and(d ess(p ac ices.(The(o ganic(
wa d obe(s udy(allowed( he(pa icipan s( o(discuss(mo e( eely( hei ( eelings(abou (speci ic(
ga men s,(showing(me(wha (clo hing(combina ions( hey(app ecia ed,(o (how( a ou i e(
ou i s(we e(s o ed.![....](To(discuss(e en s(and( eelings(while(looking(a ,(some imes(e en(
holding(and( ouching,(an(ac ual(ga men (in(a(pe son's(close (helps(a icula e( eelings(
which(o he wise(would(ha e(been(ha d( o(ge (a ."! ! !
!!!!!!!!!!!(Wa kande !2013:61Q62)!
!
As!an!example!o ! his,!Wa kande !obse es!how!his!in o man ,!'An hony',!has!pho os!o !
B i !Pop!idol!Ja is!Cocke !and!Ame ican!d ag!queen!Di ine!pos ed!on! he!walls!o !his!
bed oom,!and!how!he!simila ly!mixes!' eminine'!o !'masculine'!elemen s!o ! u nishing!
and!déco !in!his! la .!Wa kande !pe cei es! his!as!a! e lec ion!o !An hony's!aes he ic!
ideals,!o !which!his!sa o ial!s yle!o !'masculine! eminini y'!is!only!a!pa !(ibid:205Q7).!In!
his!way,!Wa kande !gi es! oice! o!my!own!idea!abou !how!all! he!objec s! ha !we!
in e ac !wi h!and!su ound!ou sel es!wi h!a e!all!kinds!o !exp essi e,!ex ended!sel es!
wi h!which!we!si ua e!ou sel es!in!cul u e,!a!poin ! ha !is!a gued!by!consume !s udies!
schola s!like!Belk!(1995),!Øs e gaa d!&!Jan zen!(2000),!o !McC acken,!who!has!s a ed!
how!!
!
"consume (goods(a e(an(impo an (medium(o (ou (cul u e.(They(a e(a(place(we(keep(ou (
p i a e(and(public(meanings.(Ca s(and(clo hing,( o (ins ance,(come(loaded(wi h(meanings,(
meanings(we(use( o(de ine(ou sel es."!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(McC acken!2005:3)!!
!
As!I!do,!Wa kande !builds!his!no ion!o !d ess!objec s!as!ex ended!sel es!on!ideas!o ! he!
embodied!habi us!(Bou dieu!1997),!and,!in!doing!so,!pe cei es!daily!nego ia ion!
p ocesses!in! he!wa d obe!as!impo an !si es!o !s udy.!Add essing! he!'quee !s yles'!o !
his!in o man s,!he! ollows!Ba hes!in! he!dis inc ion!be ween!' ashion'!and!'s yle'.!
Acco ding! o!Ba hes,!' ashion'!is!in ima ely!connec ed!wi h! he!de elopmen !o !

!
36!
capi alism,!and! he eby!wi h! he!changes!o !seasons,!whe eas!'s yle'!is! ela ed! o!ma e s!
o ! adi ion!and!con en ion,! he eby!changing!a !a!much!slowe !pace!(Ba hes!2006!
[1967]:108!in:!Wa kande !2013:31).!Wha !I! ind!pa icula ly!in e es ing!is!how!
Wa kande ,!in! his!way,! ans o ms! he!nego ia i e!p ocesses!o !his!in o man s!in o!
nego ia ions!o !s yle,!o !which!' ashion'!is!subo dina e.!Simul aneously,!he!pe cei es! his!
nego ia ion!o !s yle!as!an!ac !o !b icolage,! e e ing! o! he!concep !de i ing! om!Lé iQ
S auss!(1966![1962]),!as!i !is!implemen ed!by!Dick!Hebdige!in!his!book,!Subcul u e.(The(
Meaning(o (S yle!(1988![1979]).!!
!
In! his! hesis,!I!am!jus !like!Wa kande !opposed! o! he!idea! ha !all!d ess!p ac ices!can!
somehow!be!explained! h ough! he!logics!o !' ashion',!'an iQ ashion'!o !' he!
un ashionable',!and!would!like! o!launch!in o!conside a ion!how!pa icula ly! empo al!
aspec s!o !d ess!p ac ices!a e!cu en ly!unde Q esea ched.!S udies!o !wa d obes!wi h!
his!objec i e!ha e!been!made,!as!men ioned!abo e,!bu !I!wan ! o!elabo a e! his! u he ,!
in!o de ! o!con ibu e!wi h!a!mo e!highly! e lec ed!and!mo e! ace ed!unde s anding!o !
d ess!p ac ice.!Fi s ly,!Raunio!(2007)!has!highligh ed!how!people!seem! o! ake!special!
ca e!o !d ess!objec s! ha !awaken!pa icula ! eelings!and!emo ions!in! he!wea e ,!such!as!
handQmade!objec s,!which!is!why! hese!kinds!o !objec s!las !longe !in! he!wa d obe! han!
o he s.!This!key!idea!can!be!said! o!be!domina ing! he!app oach!o !e hnog aphe !and!
consume !s udies!schola !Klepp!(2001/2010)!as!well!as!design! esea ch!schola !
Fle che !(2008;!Fle che !&!Tham!2004),!who!each!ha e!con ibu ed,!in! hei !own!
espec i e!ways,! o!unde s andings!o !d ess!p ac ice! ha !go!beyond!explana ions!o !
' ashion'.!Mo i a ed!by! he!issue!o !sus ainabili y,!bo h!o ! hese!schola s!show!how!d ess!
p ac ices!a e,!in! ac ,!no !solely!d i en!by! he!logics!o !' ashion'!bu !wo k,!ins ead,!in!
slowe !paces! ha !ha e! o!be!unde s ood!in!o he !ways.!As!cha ac e is ic!o ! he!
wa d obe!me hod,!i !is! h ough!add essing!how!people!in e ac !wi h!ac ual!d ess!
objec s!in! hei !wa d obes! ha ! hese!unde s andings!eme ge:!in! he!p esen !case,!how!
people!p olong! he!li e!cycle!o !d ess!objec s!in! he!wa d obe! h ough!combining,!
mending,!main aining!o ! eQdesigning!objec s.!Building!on! hese!ideas,!I!wish! o!
highligh !e en! u he ! he!cu en !lack!o ! esea ch!on!d ess!p ac ice,!pa icula ly!in!
e ms!o !d essing!as!an!embodied,! empo ally! luen !p ac ice.!!
!
To!summa ise,!I!am!building!my!s udy!on!a! iew!o ! he!wa d obe!as!a!kind!o !'museum!
o !sel es',!in!which!people!nego ia e!embodied!and! ela ional!ma e s!o !appea ance.!
He e,!I! ega d!' ashion'!as!qui e!a!limi ed!explana o y! amewo k,!o !a !leas !as!me ely!
one!o !many!pa ame e s! ha !e ec !wha !people!selec ! o!wea ! om!wha ! hey!s o e!!Q!
!
37!
which!I!sugges !ough ! o!be! ega ded!as! hei !‘d ess!s yle’,!since! his! amewo k!is!
conside ably!mo e!elas ic!and!inclusi e! han!' ashion'.!To!explo e! hese!pa ame e s!in!a!
mo e!inQdep h!way,!I!ha e!chosen! o!zoom!in!on!people's!nego ia ion!o !appea ance!in!
hei !daily! ou ines!and!p ac ices! h ough!Klepp's!concep !o ! a ou i es:!how!people's!
daily!selec ion!is!based!on!p eQunde s andings!o !sel ! ha !ha e!been!e ol ing!
h oughou ! he!cou se!o ! hei !li es.!Thus,! epe i i e!pa e ns!o !simila !objec s!eme ge!
in!people's!wa d obes!as! hey!de elop! hei ! as e!pa e ns,!and!i !is! hese! epe i i e!
pa e ns! ha !cons i u e! hei !pe sonal!s yle!o !d essing.!I!see! his!as!being!aligned!wi h!
he!on ology!o !p ocessual!sociological! heo y,!especially!as!i !has!been!de ined!by!
La ou .!La ou !sees!s abilized!s a es!as!imagined!and!inhe en ly! ela ional,!like!a! a el!
o !' ailway!line',!and!ac ion!as!en ailing!a!'kno '!o !agencies! om!bo h!ac o !(subjec )!
and!ac an !(objec )!(La ou !2005).!Following!o ganiza ion!s udies!schola !He nes,!I!
p opose!seeing! he!space!o ! he!wa d obe!as!a!'can as!o !possibili ies'!in!cons an !
p ocess.!Thus,!a!s abilized!s a e!such!as!a!pa icula !s yle!o !d essing,!is!inhe en ly!
ela ional,!and!cons an ly! ep oduced!and! eQnego ia ed.!Fo !example,!a!pe son!can!
mo e! om!being!"I!am!a!pe son!who!wea s! igh !jeans",! o!“I!am!a!pe son!who! a ely!
wea s! igh !jeans”!and! inally! o!"I!am!a!pe son!who!can!ne e !wea ! igh !jeans!(again)".!
The!d ess!objec !is! he!same,!bu ! he!pe son!has!changed.!In!a!La ou ian!unde s anding,!
a e ac s!such!as!d ess!objec s!achie e! luc ua ing!meanings! h ough!associa ions!wi h!
human!ac o s;!speci ic!a e ac s!may!wo k!as!ac an s!in! ha ! hey!in oduce!new!s yles,!
bu ! hei !capaci y!as!ac an s!may!change!o e ! ime!(and!mos !o en!do).!The e o e,! he!
wa d obe!is!a!si e!o !oppo uni y! o !s udying!ou !d ess!p ac ice!as!a!p ocessual!ac i i y!
ha !is!si ua ed!in!‘a! angled!wo ld’,!in!which!new!becomings!eme ge! epea edly,!albei !
mos ! equen ly!as!adjus men s!o ! he!same.!He nes!pe cei es!p ocesses!as!
'en anglemen s',!whe e!en i ies!Q!such!as!ac o s,! echnologies,!b ands!and! ules!Q!eme ge!
and!coQe ol e.!Any!en i y!is! hus!a!' angled!mass'! ha !is!con inuously!on! he!mo e!
owa ds!becoming!some hing!else.!Cul u al!an h opologis !Tim!Ingold!has!ca ied! he!
me apho !o !en anglemen !e en! u he !(Ingold!2008).!In!his! iew,!en i ies! o m!'kno s'!
o !'wea ings',!which!canno !be!unde s ood! ully!when!looking!only!a ! he!su ace.!Wha !
Ingold!is!aspi ing! owa ds!is! o!oppose!a!pe cep ion!o ! ime!and!de elopmen ! ha !is!
pa icula ! o!Wes e n!socie y!as!being!linea :!a!do ed!line,!consis ing!o !a!'succession!o !
ins an s'.!This!posi i is !wo ld! iew,!Ingold!claims,!does!no ! eally!co ela e!wi h!how!
people!ac ually!in e ac !wi h! he!wo ld.!A! a ional,!pu poseQo ien ed!on ology! ha !aims!
a !'joining! he!do s'!does!no !g asp!wha !goes!on!'in!e e yday!li e!o !in!o dina y!
discou se'(ibid:3).!To!Ingold,! he!p ocess! ha !is! aking!place!as!people!li e! hei !li es!is!
a!'cu ed!line'! ha !is!en angled!wi h!o he !lines,! hus!connec ed!in!'wea ings',!'loops'!o !
!
38!
'kno s'.!I!p opose!looking!a ! he!space!o ! he!wa d obe! h ough! his!pe cep ion!o ! he!
in e ela ion!be ween!subjec ,! ime!and!place,!and!I!also!subsc ibe! o!Ingold's!concep !o !
'dwelling'!(Ingold!2000),!in! he!way! ha !I!pe cei e! he! ela ion!be ween!people's!d ess!
p ac ices!and! he!d ess!objec s! hey!s o e!and!wea .!I!also!p opose! o! iew!Klepp's!
concep !o !' a ou i es'!in!ligh !o ! his!p ocessual!unde s anding,!because!people's!ideas!
abou ! hei !' a ou i es'!seem! o!connec !pas ,!p esen ,!and! u u e!wa d obes.!!
(
!
D essing(as(p ac ice!
!
!
In! he! ollowing,!I!will!a emp ! o!cla i y!wha !I!mean!when!I!speak!o !d ess!p ac ice!as!
embodied!and! ela ional.!I!will!do!so!by!es ablishing!a! amewo k! ha !combines!Joanne!
En wis le's! iew!o !d ess!p ac ice!as!a!bodily(si ua ed(p ac ice!wi h!Sho e!e !al.'s!
unde s anding!o !e e yday!p ac ices!as!onQgoing!p ocesses.!I!will! he eby! y! o!
ope a ionalize!my!idea! ha !people's! i uals!o !ge ing!d essed!a e,! o!a!signi ican !ex en ,!
ou ine!ac ions! ha !build!on!pas !expe iences!o !success!and! ailu e,!which!cause! hem!
o!cons an ly! eQadjus ! hei !appea ance!–!and! o!cas !ligh !on!how! hese!expe iences!
ha e! o!do!wi h!bodily!sensa ions,!as!well!as!social! ela ions.!!
!
In!Joanne!En wis le's!book:!The(Fashioned(Body.(Fashion,(D ess(and(Mode n(Social(Theo y!
(2000),!she!add esses!how!d essing,!as!an!embodied!p ac ice,!has!been!neglec ed,!
because!i !is!posi ioned!be ween!a!s uc u alis !and!a !his o ical!in e es ! o !su aces!
and!signQmaking!on! he!one!hand,!and,!on! he!o he ,!a!sociology!o ! he!body! ha !is!
disin e es ed!in! ashion!and!d ess.!In!he !book,!she! ies! o!b idge! hese!unde s andings!
by!making! he! ollowing!o e all!a gumen :!!
!
"I(p opose( he(idea(o (d ess(as(si ua ed(bodily(p ac ice(as(a( heo e ical(and(me hodological(
amewo k( o (unde s anding( he(complex(dynamic( ela ionship(be ween( he(body,(d ess(
and(cul u e.(Such(a( amewo k( ecognizes( ha (bodies(a e(socially(cons i u ed,(always(
si ua ed(in(cul u e(and( he(ou come(o (indi idual(p ac ices(di ec ed( owa ds( he(body:(in(
o he (wo ds,('d ess'(is( he( esul (o ('d essing'(o ('ge ing(d essed'.(!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(En wis le!2000:11)!
!
En wis le!a gues! ha !li e a u e!on! ashion!has,!by!and!la ge,!igno ed! he!body,!
pe cei ing! ashion!ins ead!as!a!dis inc i e!sys em! ha !is!highly!occupied!wi h!d ess!
!
39!
objec s!as!ma ke s!o !s a us,!because!o ! he!close!alliance!wi h!Wes e n!capi alis !socie y!
da ing!back! o! he!14 h!Cen u y.!A ! he!same! ime,!semio ic! eadings,!as!de ined!by!
Ba hes!(2006)!ha e!had! hei ! ocus!on!aes he ics! a he ! han!on!d essing!as!e e yday!
p ac ice,! uelled!by!Ca esian!dualism,!which!sepa a es!mind!and!body.!Con e sely,!she!
a gues! ha !classic!sociology!has!dis ega ded! he!impo ance!o ! ashion!and!d ess,!and!
he!p ac ices!su ounding! hem!because!o ! he!discipline’s! ocus!on!ac ion!and!
a ionali y.!Thus,!classic!sociology!has!condemned! he!whole!a ea!o ! ashion!as!
'i a ional',!as!e ol ing!a ound! he! ain!and!e emina e!body,!seen!by!a!maleQdomina ed!
socie y!as!being!mo ally!suspec .!En wis le!insis s! ha ! his!un o una e!neglec !o ! he!
d essed!body!discloses!a!gla ing!lack!in!(pa icula ly!sociological)!li e a u e! ha !can!
"gi e(an(accoun (o (d ess(wi hin(e e yday(li e( ha (is(no ( educ i e(o ( heo e ically(
abs ac ,(bu ( heo e ically(complex(and(empi ically(g ounded"!(he e! om!En wis le!in:!
Wilson!and!En wis le!2001:76).!As!a! heo e ical! amewo k! o ! his,!En wis le!sugges s!
looking!deepe !in o!Me leauQPon y's!phenomenological!a gumen !(Me leauQPon y!
1976/1981,!in:!En wis le!2000),!which!holds! ha !i !is! h ough! he!body! ha !we!
expe ience! he!wo ld.!Tha !"we(g asp(ex e nal(space,( ela ionships(be ween(objec s(and(
ou ( ela ionship( o( hem( h ough(ou (posi ion(in,(and(mo emen ( h ough,( he(wo ld"!
(ibid:28).!Suppo ing! his!wi h!Bou dieu's!idea!o !habi us!as!being!embodied!and!
Go mann's!ideas!on!appea ance!as!pa !o !social!p ac ice,!she! ollows!Mauss!(1973,!in:!
ibid),!a guing! ha !d essing!is!an!embodied!' echnology!o !sel '.!!!
!
A! e y!simila !app oach!can!be! ound!in! he!way!Jenni e !C aik!sees!d ess!p ac ice!as!a!
'body! echnique'.!Building!equally!on!Bou dieu!and!Mauss,!she!a gues! ha :!!
!
"(Codes(o (d ess(a e( echnical(de ices(which(a icula e( he( ela ionship(be ween(a(
pa icula (body(and(i s(li ed(milieu,( he(space(occupied(by(bodies(and(cons i u ed(by(bodily(
ac ions.(In(o he (wo ds,(clo hes(cons uc (a(pe sonal(habi us."!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(C aik!1994:4)!!
!
Why!a e! hese!way!o !unde s anding! he!ma e !impo an ! o!me?!I !is!because!I!
subsc ibe!comple ely! o!Eiche 's!idea! ha !ou !senses!play!a! e y!impo an ! ole!in!ou !
e e yday!d essing! ou ines.!Howe e ,!when!i !comes! o!my!own!wo k,!I! ind!C aik's!and!
En wis le's!unde s andings!o !d essing!as!an!embodied!p ac ice!mo e!use ul! han!
Eiche 's!emphasis!on! ocusing!on!all! i e!senses.!I!belie e,!in!ag eemen !wi h!Eiche ,! ha !
he!senses!o ! ouch,!smell,!hea ing!and! as e!(Johnson!&!Fos e !2007:2)!a e!jus !as!
impo an !as! he!sense!o !sigh ,!bu !I!p e e ! o! ega d! he! a ious!senses!as!being!
!
46!
Th ough!quali a i e!in e iews!and!obse a ions,!Sho e!e !al.! ound! ha ! he!la e !g oup!
cons an ly!spun!new! isions!abou ! u u e!p ac ices!(i.e.!no !wa ching! ele ision!in! he!
ki chen!while!ea ing!bu !ha ing!nice! amily!dinne s,!ins ead),!o ! isions!abou ! u u e!
eno a ion!p ojec s!(i.e.!a!wish! o!enla ge! he!ki chen!so!as! o!ha e!enough!space! o !
s o age).!Sho e!e !al.!examined!why! hese!'imagined!scena ios'!abou !a!be e !balance!
we e!no !always!in!be e !balance!wi h!how! hings!wo ked!ou !in! he!p esen ,!and!how!
his! us a ed! he!in o man s.!Sho e!e !al.!desc ibe! his! us a ion!as!a!'cons an !i ch',!
which!gi es! ise! o! eelings!o !shame,!guil !and!insu iciency:!al oge he ,!a! eeling!o !
" es lessness"!(Sho e!e !al.!2008:24).!!
!
I!conside ! his! iew! o!be! e y! ui ul! o!my!s udy,!because!i !displaces! he! ocus! om!
he!in e ela ion!be ween!use !and!objec ! o! he!one! ha ! akes!place!be ween!objec !and!
use !p ac ices.!Hence,! he!way!people!make!use!o ! hei !'clo hing!compe ences'!in! hei !
e e yday!li es!in!o de ! o!be!able! o!sol e! hei !'d essing!dilemmas'!is!seen!as!a!key! o!
unde s anding!d ess!p ac ice!as!a! luen !p ocess,!in!which!people!nego ia e!ma e s!o !
appea ance!o e ! ime.!In!o de ! o! ame! hese! hough s!and!make! hem!ins umen al!in!
my! esea ch,!I!ha e!de eloped! wo!models!o !unde s anding! h ough!which!I!
unde s and!my!in o man s.!To! ame!how! hey!build! hei ! as e!p e e ences!o e ! ime,!I!
ha e!de eloped! he!model!o !senso y(ancho ing.!To! ame!how! hey!in e ac !wi h!
concep s!such!as!' ashion',!'an iQ ashion'!o !' he!un ashionable',!I!ha e!de eloped! he!
model!o !sa o ial(sys ems.!I !is! hese!models! ha !I!will!be!looking!a ! h oughou ! he!
en i e! hesis,! h ough!di e en !pe spec i es.!!
!
(
Senso y(ancho ing!
!
!
In!o de ! o! heo ise!a!p ocessual! iew!on!d ess!p ac ice,!I!p opose! o! iew!i ! h ough! he!
lens!o !psychology,! ollowing!E ikson's!concep !o !iden i y(c isis!(E ikson!1956).!E ikson!
pe cei es!people's!li es!as!e ol ing! h ough! a ious!phases!o !iden i y!c isis,!which!he!
calls!'mo a o iums'.!O ! hese,! he!mos !impo an !one!is! he!'you h!mo a o ium':!
adolescence,!whe e!people!a e! ans o med! om!child en! o!adul s,!whe e! hey!b eak!
loose! om! hei !pa en s,!and!whe e! hey!s a ! o ming! hei !own!idea!o !sel .!This!'you h!
mo a o ium',!claims!E ikson,!is!a!pa icula ly!di icul !pe iod!o !iden i y! es ing! ha !
o en!knocks!people!ou !o !balance,!while!in!la e !mo a o iums,!i !is!o en! he!case! ha !
iden i y!ma e s!a e! e ised!bu !no !al e ed!comple ely.!Thus,!E ikson!belie es,!people!

!
47!
o m! e y!impo an !ideas!o !sel !when! hey!a e!young,!and!as! hey!g ow!olde !and! ake!
on!jobs,!ge !child en!and!pa ne s,!and!mee !o he !changes!in! hei !li es,! hey!
acco dingly!adjus ! hei !iden i y! o!'olde ! e sions'!o ! he!same.!Ve y!impo an ly,!
E ikson!sees! hese!'mo a o iums'!as!phases!o !sho e !o !longe !du a ion,!and!no !as!
sho Qlas ing!momen s!o !change.!This!idea!b idges! he!p ocessual! iew! ha !I!ha e! ied!
o!implemen ! h oughou ! he! ieldwo k!wi h!Sho e!e !al.'s!model!o !'ha ing'!and!'doing':!
wha !I!belie e!is! ha !du ing! he!phase!o !adolescence,!people!seek!ways!o !managing!
hei !appea ance! ha !ma ch! hei !'inne '!ideas!o !sel ,!and! hei !'ou e '!s uc u es.!Since!
hey!a e!in! he!p ocess!o ! ealising!who! hey!a e,! his!some imes!causes! apid!changes!o !
appea ance,! ypically!gi ing! ise,!a !leas ,! o!some! o m!o !expe imen a ion!wi h!wha !
hey!wea .!All! his!is! uelled!by!'imagined!scena io's!o !who! hey! hink! hey!ha e!been,!
p esen ly!a e,!o !could!be!in! he! u u e.!In! his!way,!' ashion!mis akes'!seem! o! ake!place!
pa icula ly!du ing! he!you h!mo a o ium,!as!young!people! es !iden i ies! ha !a e,!o !a !
no ,!wo king! o ! hem.!In!la e !phases,!people!adjus !wha ! hey! ound! o!be!wo king!by!
ans o ming! hei !pas !wa d obe!in o!'olde '! e sions',!when! hey!a e!subjec ed! o!
changes!in!'ou e '!s uc u es!such!as!ma iage,!kids,!jobs,!o !changes!in! hei !body.!The!
shi s!in!appea ance!a e! a !less! apid,!and!a e!o en!buil !on! epe i ions.!I!see! his!whole!
p ocess!as!being!ancho ed!in!senso y!expe iences,!as!well!as!in!mo e! e e en ial!
conce ns!(in!wha ! o!'signal').!Wha !appea s!below!is,! i s ,!E ikson's!model!o !
'mo a o iums',!and!a e ! his,!my!own!model!o !senso y(ancho ing.(!
!
ERIKSON'S$MODEL$OF$'MORATORIUMS'$
!
In!E ikson's!o iginal!model!a e!also!Mo a o iums!I!(In ancy),!II!(Ea ly!childhood),!III!(Play!age)!and!IV!
(School!age)!(E ikson!1956:75),!and!in! his!sense,! he e!is!a!con inui y!be ween!upb inging!and!adul !li e!
ha !conce ned!E ikson!as!a!psychologis .!Howe e ,!I!ha e!chosen! o!zoom!in!on! he!mo a o iums! ha !
conce n!adul !li e,!since! hey!a e! ela ed! o!my!own!objec i es!(see!model!on!nex !page).!!
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
Adolescence!
Mo a o ium!V!
Young!
adul hood!
Mo a o ium!VI!
Adul hood!
Mo a o ium!VII!
Ma u e!age!
Mo a o ium!
VIII!
!
48!
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
SENSORY$ANCHORING$MODEL$
$
!
My!model!o !senso y(ancho ing,!displaying!how!people!de elop!and!adjus ! hei ! as e!pa e ns! om! hei !
adolescen !yea s!and!onwa ds,!as!seen! h ough! hei !wa d obes.!These!adjus men s!a e,! o!a! e y!la ge!
ex en ,!colou ed!by!senso y(expe ience(o (wha ( eels(' igh '(o ('w ong'( o(wea .Ve y!impo an ly,! hey!a e!seen!
as! aking!place!in(o e lapping(phases(o ( ime/sho e (o (longe (phases(o ( ansi ion,!no !o e nigh .!As!such,!a!
p ocessual! iew!is!being!highligh ed!he e!!
!
I:!A!wa d obe!in!sea ch!o !iden i y! ha !is!o en! ound! h ough!g oup!membe ships!
!
II:!A!wa d obe! ha !is!ge ing!mo e!s abile,!as!people! ind!d ess!s yles! ha !s a ! o!' eel! igh '!
!
III:!Indi idual!d ess!s yles!a e!being!adjus ed!and!adap ed!in o!'olde ! e sions',!as!g own!up! esponsabili ies!
such!as!ma iage,!ha ing!kids,!o !s a ing!wo k!li e,!s a s!impac ing! he!daily! ou ines.!Fu he mo e,!
adjus men s!a e!made!in!co ela ion!wi h!bodily!changes!due! o!ageing.!!
!
IV:!The!wa d obe!is!now! ela i ely!s abile,!bu !can!s ill!be!adjus ed!due! o!i.e.!a!new! ype!o !job,!bodily!
changes,!o !o he !li e!changing!e en s! ha !p o okes!pe iods!o ! ansi ion.!!
!
!
To!sum!i !up,!I!pe cei e! he! ela ion!be ween!'ha ing'!and!'doing'!in!people's!wa d obes!
o!be!a!kind!o !senso y(ancho ing,! h ough!which!senso y!and! e lec i e!dimensions!o !
d ess!objec s!gi e! ise! o! as e!pa e ns!o e ! ime.!Wi h! his! e m,!I!am!add essing!bo h!
he!'symbolic!su aces'!o !d ess!s yles!and! he!senso y!expe iences! ha !ha e!shaped!
pas ,!p esen !and! u u e!p e e ences.!In! his!sense,!pas !d ess!p ac ices!wo k!like!
ancho ing!poin s! ha !aid!people!in! he!p ocesses!o !making! hei !daily!selec ions,!and!in!
hei ! u u e,!imagined!scena ios!o !d essing.!!
!
!
Sa o ial(sys ems(
(
!
I!
Adolescen !wa d obe!
!
!
!
II!
Wa d obe!
o !young!
adul hood!
!
!
!
III!
Wa d obe!
o !
adul hood!
!
!
IV!
Wa d obe!
o !ma u e!
age!
!
!
49!
Ins ead!o ! ela ing!all!explana o y! amewo ks! o !d ess!p ac ice!as!being!linked! o!
logics!o !' ashion’,!I!see!people!as!being!engaged!wi h! a ious!'landscapes'!o ! e e ence.!
Tha !is,!how!people!make!use!o !b icolaging!in! he!way! ha ! hey!mix!s yles!and!
e e ences!in!o de ! o!' eel! igh '.!I !I!conside !En wis le's! amewo k,!I!can!see! ha !she!
dis inguishes!be ween!' ashion',!'d ess'!and!'clo hes'!while!calling,!a ! he!same! ime,! o !
he!de elopmen !o !a!mo e!uni e sal!p inciple! o !d ess!p ac ice!(2000:112/117).!On!
he!o he !hand,!she!a gues! ha !s yle!is!always!a!media ion!o !social! ac o s,!and! u he ,!
ha ! his!pu s!limi a ions!on!how!much!can!be!explained! h ough! he!lens!o !Wes e n!
ashion!(ibid:49).!Wha !I!p opose!is! ha !i !would!be! ui ul! o!look!a !people's!
na iga ion! h ough! hei !d essing!dilemmas!by!dis inguishing!mo e!clea ly!wha !kinds!
o ! e e ences! hey!engage!in! hei !wa d obes.!In!my!a emp s! o! y!and!unde s and! his,!
I!came!ac oss!sociologis !Ann!Swidle 's!book,!Talk(o (Lo e.(How(Cul u e(Ma e s!(2001).!
In!he !book,!she!in e iews! a ious!people!abou !how! hey! alk!abou !lo e.!He e,!she!
sees!how! a ious!cul u al!sc ip s!e ec ! he!way! hey!do,!‘sc ip s’!like!Ch is iani y!o !new!
wa e!spi i ualism.!Wi hin! hese!sc ip s,! he e!a e!inhe en !skills,!codes!and!p ac ices!
ha !people! eQenac .!Wha !Swidle !comes! o! ealise!is! ha !people!do!no ! eQenac !
cul u al!sc ip s!in! he!same!way:! he e!a e! a ia ions,!combina ions!and!di e ences,!
which!can!nei he !be!explained! h ough! he!Webe ian!a gumen ! ha !cul u e!in luences!
ac ion,!no !be!explained! h ough!a!Pa sonian!analysis!o !cul u e!as!no ms!and! alues.!
The e o e,!acco ding! o!Swidle ,!i !is! e y!impo an ! o!look!a !how!people!use!cul u e! o!
lea n!how! o!be!pa icula !kinds!o !pe sons.!How! hey,!so! o!speak,!inhabi !pa icula !
cul u al!' epe oi es',!and!ancho ! hemsel es!in! hei !ideas!o !sel ,!and!in! hei !dayQ oQ
day!p ac ices.!Fo !example,!Swidle !desc ibes!how!dilemmas! ha !a e! ela ed,! o !
example,! o!how! o!pe o m!a!ma iage!can!gene a e!indi idual!solu ions!which!a e:!
!
"wide( a ia ions(and(some imes(d ama ic(shi s(in( heo ies(and( echniques( o (sol ing(
hese(dilemmas,(e en(while( hose( a ied(solu ions(sha e(a(common(o ien a ion( o( he(
ins i u ion(i sel "(!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(Swidle !2001:201)!
!
Swidle !bases! hese!conside a ions!on! he!gene al!pe cep ion!o !cul u e:!
!
"as( epe oi e,(which(one(can(be(mo e(o (less(good(a (pe o ming![...]!'a(se (o (skills'(which(
only(some imes('wo k'"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(ibid:24Q25)!!
!
Wha !is!eno mously!in e es ing! o!me!is! he!way! ha !Swidle !pe cei es! his!as!a!
b icoleu ian!ac ,!in!which!people!build! hei !p ac ices!on!a!se !o !a ailable!' epe oi es'!
!
50!
o !cul u al!sc ip s.!How! hey!can!easily!engage!wi h!mo e!sc ip s!a ! he!same! ime,!and!
combine! hem.!And!how!some!sc ip s!a e!mo e!dominan !in! hei !se ing! han!o he s,!
which!shows!in! hei !p ac ices.!Wha !I!will!p opose!is! o! iew! he!way!people!na iga e!
h ough! hei !d essing!dilemmas! h ough! his!op ics.!Thus,!sa o ial!sys ems!such!as!
' ashion',!'popQ!and!coun e Qcul u e',!'menswea / ailo ing'!o !'spo swea '! ha !I!see!as!
domina ing! he!social!s uc u es!a ound!my!in o man s!migh !be!seen!as!cul u al!sc ip s!
o !' epe oi es'!wi h!which!each!in o man !engages!in!his!own!pe sonal!way!and!
combina ion,!in!o de ! o!'sol e'!gi en!d essing!dilemmas.!When!I!say!'sa o ial!sys ems',!I!
am! e e ing! o! he!way! ha !Ba hes!(1983)!and!la e !on,!Kawamu a!(2005)!ha e!
de ined! ashion!as!a!sys em!o !an!ins i u ionalised!ne wo k!o !agencies.!I! ega d!each!o !
hese!sys ems!as!ha ing!i s!own!dis inc !his o ical!poin !o !depa u e!and! easoning,!i s!
own! i ualised!and!ins i u ional!skills,!codes!and!p ac ices,!and!i s!own!ne wo ks!and!
agencies.!While!' ashion'!as!a!sys em!is!cu en ly!o e ly!dominan ,! he!o he !sys ems!
ha e!a!huge!e ec !on!people's!d ess!p ac ices!as!well!–!a !leas ! he!way!I!see! he!
si ua ion.!Fo !example,! he!sys em!o !popQ!and!subQcul u e! e lec s!ideas!o !au hen ici y!
and!membe ship,!and!o !opposing!mains eam!cul u e,!o !a !leas !opposing!adul 's!way!
o ! hinking,!as!has!been!a gued!by!Hebdige!(1979)!and!la e !on,!Hodkinson!(2002).!
In e es ingly!enough,!Hodkinson!has!showed!how!membe s!o !subcul u es!in!G ea !
B i ain!main ain! hei !membe ship! h oughou ! hei !en i e!li es,!and!s ay! ue! o! he!
'li e!philosophy'!o !a!gi en!musical!gen e!(Hodkinson!&!Benne !(eds.)!2012).!Wi h!'skills,!
codes!and!p ac ices'! ha !a e!pa icula ! o! ashion,!I!migh ! e e ! o!Rocamo a,!who!has!
de ined! ashion!as!inhe en ly!Pa isian,!and!as!being!connec ed! o! he!de elopmen !o !
indus ialism!and!capi alism!in! he!Wes e n!wo ld.!F om! he e! ollows!a!line!o !bodily!
p ac ices! ha !de i e! om! igu es!such!as!'Pa isian!chic',!o !'la!passan e',!which!a e!
connec ed! e y!dis inc ly! o! he!ci y!o !Pa is!(Rocamo a!2009).!In! ela ion! o! he!sys em!
o !'menswea / ailo ing',!w i e s!like!Hollande !ha e!demons a ed!how! his!sys em!
builds!on! i ues!o !sameness!and!con inui y,!and!no !on!change!and!di e ence,!such!as!
ashion.!How! he!skills,!codes!and!p ac ices! ha !a e!cha ac e is ic!o ! his!sys em!e ol e!
a ound! i ues!like! he!elegance!o ! he!de ail!and! he!pe ec ! i ,!and! he!'pe ec !
gen leman',!who!is!awa e!o !e ique e!and!immacula e!d essing!(Hollande !1994).!The!
sys em!o !'spo swea ',!on! he!o he !hand,!de i es! om!a!p eoccupa ion!wi h!heal h!and!
exe cise! ha !eme ged!in! he!cou se!o ! he!19 h!Cen u y,!and!ac ually!exp esses!an!
an ipa hy! owa ds! he!whole!'genesis!o ! he!sui ',!which!was! ega ded!as!being!
cons ic i e!o ! he!body!and! he!mind!by,! o !example,! he!soQcalled!'Men's!D ess!Re o m!
Pa y'!o ! he!1930s!(Malossi!&!Ab ams!2000).!A e !WW2,!Ame ican!Spo swea !came! o!
exe !a!huge!in luence!on!casualwea ,!and!has!in!many!ways!been! ans o med! om!
!
51!
d ess! o!wea ! o !spo s,!and!in o!d ess! o !e e yday!li e.!Below,!I!ha e!sugges ed!how!i !
migh !be!possible! o! ega d!each!o ! hese!' epe oi es'!as!sys ems!o !'skills,!codes!and!
p ac ices'!Q!all!o ! hem!ha ing!been! i ualised,! o! a ious!ex en s,! h oughou ! he!
Wes e n!his o y!o !d ess.!Wha !I!p opose!is! ha !seeing! he!symbolic!codes!in!people's!
b icoleu ian!ac !o !d essing,!in! his!way,!could!pa e! he!way! o !a!mo e!uni e sal! iew!
on!d ess!p ac ice,!in!which!all!pe sons!in!all!cul u es!d aw!on!a!gi en!se !o !' epe oi es',!
and! hen! eQenac ! hem!on! he!basis!o ! hei !own!indi idual! as e!p e e ences,!which!a e!
embodied,!a ec ed!by!pe sonal!ideas!abou !aes he ics,!and!de eloped!o e ! ime.!The!
model!as!i !is!displayed!he e!is!qui e!simplis ic,!and!could!ce ainly!be!elabo a ed!
u he ! han!how!I!ha e!done!so.!Howe e ,!I!ha e! ound! ha !i !would!be!all! oo!spaceQ
consuming! o !me! o!do!so!he e,!and! he e o e!I!will!make!use!o !i !as!a! oughly!se ! il e ,!
h ough!which!I!can!unde s and! he! e e en ial!o ien a ion!o !my!sample.!!
!
SARTORIAL$SYSTEMS$MODEL$
!
!
$
!
Fashion! ! o igin:!14 h!Cen u y!Bu gundian!Cou s;!19 h!Cen u y!Hau e!Cou u e;!20 h!!
!!Cen u y!RQTQW/ as ! ashion!
!!codes:(Showpiece! om!ca walks;!RQTQW! e sion!o !ca walk!s yles;! he!€5!TQshi !
!!skills(and(p ac ices:!Change/newness;! i s Qmo e !on! ends;!Pa isian!chic!
!!consume (g oup:!wellQo !people;!you h!
!
PopQ! ! o igin:(La e!19 h!Cen u y!mode nis !a an Qga de!mo emen s;!Pos !WW2!an iQ!
coun e cul u e!es ablishmen ;!B i ain/US!
!!codes:(B icolage!o !d ess!objec s! om! a ious!g oupings!in!socie y,!like!! !
!!wo ke s,!e hnic!g oups,!high!socie y,!e c.!
!!skills(and(p ac ices:!T ibe!membe ship;!an iQes ablishmen ;!sub e sion!o ! he!!
!!dominan !
• Spo swea !• Menswea /
ailo ing!
• PopQ!and!
coun e cul u e!
• Fashion!
Change/
newness! T ibe!
membe ship!
F eedom!o !
mo emen /
heal h!
Con inui y/
e ique e!

!
52!
!!consume (g oup:!you h!
!
Menswea /!o igin:!Ea ly!19 h!Cen u y!B i ain!!
ailo ing!! codes:!The!male!sui ;!blaze ,! ie,!shi .!F om!WW2:! he! emale!sui !
!!skills(and(p ac ices:!S abili y,!quali y,!e ique e;! he!elegance!lies!in! he!de ail!
!!consume (g oup:!adul s!
!
Spo swea !o igin:!19 h!Cen u y!uppe !class,!B i ain;!20 h!Cen u y!je !se ,!US!
!!codes:!Riding!cos ume,!gol !wea ,! ennis!ou i ,!socce !TQshi s,!ou e wea ,!! !
!!swea pan s!and!hoodies!
!!skills(and(p ac ices:(p ac icali y;! eedom!o !mo emen ;!hiQ ech! unc ionali ies!
!!consume (g oup:!all!age!g oups!
$
$
$
$
Me hodology!
$
!
!
!
To!sum!i !up,!I!wish! o!add ess! he! ollowing!in! his!pa !o ! he! hesis:!
!
1.!How!do!I!de elop!a!me hodology! ha !can!ope a ionalise!my!idea!o !d ess!p ac ice!as!
embodied!and! ela ional?!
!
2.!How!do! he!models!o !senso y(ancho ing!and!sa o ial(sys ems!play!a! ole!in! he!d ess!
p ac ices!o !my!sample?!
!
Me hod,!in!sho :!I!s a ed!ou !conduc ing!my!sessions!wi h! he!in o man ,!To ben,!as!a!
pilo !p ojec ,!wi h! he!aim!o !de eloping!an!in e iew!me hod! ha !could!help! o!iden i y!
my!objec i es!and!build!my! amewo k.!To!be!hones ,!I!had!planned! o! ollow! his!up!
wi h!a!s udy!o !a!g oup!o !25Q30!men.!Howe e ,! he!mo e!I!looked!a ! he!ma e ial!I!had,!
he!mo e!i !became!clea ! o!me! ha ! he!mic oQle el!o !people's!d ess!p ac ice!is! e y!
poo ly!desc ibed!o ! heo ised.!As!such,! his! i s !pa !o ! he! hesis!has! o!be! iewed!as!a!
g ounded! heo y!p ocess,!whe e!I!ha e!buil !my!hypo hesis!and! amewo k!on! he!basis!
o !wha !I!encoun e ed.!I!did! his!in!way! ha !lies! e y!much!in!line!wi h!Whi eman!and!
he !desc ip ion!o !a!s udy!o !C ee!hun e s!in!Canada!(Whi eman!&!Coope !2011).!In! he!
case!o !Whi eman,!she!slipped!in! he!snow!du ing! he! i s !days!o !he ! ieldwo k,! ell!in o!
an!icy!cold! i e ,!and!could!ha e!died.!She!was! eminded! ha !she!was!no !only!s udying!
hun e s,!bu !was!s udying!jus !as!much!how! hese!hun e s!in e ac ed!wi h! he!physical!
!
53!
en i onmen !in!which! hey!li ed.!These! ealisa ions!made!he ! e hink! he!s udy!
comple ely.!She! hen!s a ed!collec ing!da a!and!began!an!open!coding!p ocess!in!a!
sea ch! o ! hemes!o !pa ame e s! ha !a ec ed! he!li es!o ! he!hun e s!whom!she!was!
s udying.!E en!i !my!change!o !di ec ion!was!in!no!way! igge ed!by!a!such!a!shock,!i !
became!clea ! o!me! ha !I!needed! o!look! e y!closely!a !wha !I!had!encoun e ed!in!
To ben's!wa d obe.!A!na a i e!was!w i en!in!o de ! o!be e !unde s and! he!pa e ns!
o ! he!ma e ial,!and!a!lis !o !'posi i e'!and!'nega i e'!wo ds!was!compiled!in!o de ! o! ind!
clus e s! ha !could!help!build! hemes.!I!did! his!by!building!on!my!obse a ions!du ing!
he! i s !sessions,!whe e!I!would!pay!much!a en ion! o! he!space!o ! he!wa d obe!i sel :!
o!how!i !was!o ganized,! o!wha ! he!close !looked!like,!and! o!how! he!whole!scena io!
was!connec ed!wi h! he!beha iou !o ! he!in o man .!I!also!paid!a en ion! o! he!shape,!
colou ,! ab ic! ex u e,! imming!de ails,!e c.,!o !e e y!single!d ess!objec .!F om! his,! he!
mo e! om!a!pu ely!indi idual!le el! o!con ex ualisa ion!began,! ollowing! he!'snail'!
model! ha !has!bee!desc ibed!by!S auss!&!Co bin!(1990).!As! his!wo k!de eloped,!
ano he !in o man ,!Jonas,!was!s udied!as!a! heo e ical!sampling,!in!o de ! o!compa e!
pa e ns!and! hemes!and! o!adjus !my!use!o !applied!me hods!in! he!wa d obe!sessions.!!
(
(
Use,(space,( ime(and( he(body(
(
!
In!my!wa d obe!sessions,!I!wan ed! o!es ablish!a!me hodology! ha !could!ope a ionalise!
my! heo e ical! amewo ks.!Sho e!e !al.'s!model!o !'ha ing'!and!'doing'!jibes!nea ly!wi h!
he! iew!o ! he!wa d obe!as!a!space!whe e!use,!space!and! ime!in e sec ,! ouching!upon!
how!people's!nego ia ions!and! eQe alua ions,!wi h! ega d! o! he!d ess!objec s! hey!
possess,! ake!place!in!a!cons an !and!e e Qe ol ing! lux!o !'wa d obe!momen s',!whe e!
hey!make! hei !daily!selec ions.!As!Sho e!e !al.!emphasise,!such!a!p ocessual! iew!is!no !
a ge ed!a !dis inguishing!be ween!wha !people!say,!on! he!one!hand,!and!wha ! hey!
ac ually!do.!Ra he ,! his! iew!unde sco es!how! hese! wo!become!in e connec ed,!in!
e e Qun olding!p ocesses,!as!people!go!abou !li ing! hei !li es,!and!as! hey!go!abou !
doing! hei !daily! ou ines.!!
!
!
!
54!
!
A!P esen !p ac ice!
B!Fu u e!p ac ice!
1!New!o !no !ye !acqui ed!ma e ials! equi ed! o !imagined!ways!o !doing!
2.!Ha ing!and!doing!in!balance,!now!and! o ! he!immedia e! u u e!
3!New!o !no !ye ! ealized!ways!o !doing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(Sho e!e !al.!2007:36)!
!
Sho e!e !al.'s!model,!showing!how! he! ela ion!be ween!!'ha ing'!('needs')!and!'doing'!(p ac ices)!is!
empo al!and!dynamic,!ancho ing! he! ela ion!be ween!subjec !and!objec !in!pas ,!p esen !and! u u e.!!
!
I! ound! his!app oach! o!be! e y!in e es ing!and! ele an ,!since!i ! ai h ully!mi o s! he!
idea!o ! he!wa d obe!as!a!'museum!o !sel es':!pas ,!p esen !and! u u e!sel es,!which!a e!
de eloped!o e ! ime! h ough!wha !people!s o e!in! hei !wa d obes!(ha ing),!and!how!
hey!use!i !(doing).!I !also! e lec s! he!way!people!nego ia e!ma e s!o !appea ance!and!
app op ia eness! h ough!images!o !ha ing!o !doing:!wha !new!d ess!objec s!people!
d eam!o !pu chasing,!o !how! hey!wish! o!use!al eady!owned!ones!in!o de ! o!' eel! igh '.!!
!
I!wished! o!apply!me hods!in!my!wa d obe!sessions! ha !could!help!b ing!ou ! hese!
luen !p ocesses,!and! he e o e!employed! he!o e all!idea!o ! he!wa d obe(biog aphy.!
The!idea!was!based!on! he!way!Tu ney!&!Ha den!(2007)!and!Cole!(2000)!ha e!showed!
how!pas !wa d obes!con inue! o!a ec !wha !people!wea .!Th ough!a!museological!
pe spec i e,!Tu ney!has!showed!how!'o dina y'!women!ha e!app op ia ed!' ashionable'!
lo alQp in ed!d esses!in o! hei !own!wa d obes,! hus!displaying!how! hey!ha e!made!
hese!d esses! hei !own! h ough!use.!Th ough!in e iewing!people!and!quo ing! om!
media,!Cole!simila ly!displays!how!d ess!objec s!wo n!in! he!pas !con inue! o!ha e!a!
huge!impo ance! o ! he!wea e .!In! his!case,!Cole!displays!how!gay!men! h oughou ! he!
20 h!Cen u y!ha e!used!pa icula !d ess!objec s! o!be!iden i ied!by!o he s,!while!
Pas $ P esen $
!
!
!
!
Ha ing!
!
A!
!
Doing!
Fu u e$
Image!o !Ha ing!
!
1!
!
New!Ma e ials!
!
2 ! !!B!
!
New!Ways!o !Doing!
!
!
3!
!
Image!o !Doing!
!
55!
simul aneously!concealing! hei !sexual!o ien a ion! o!ou side s.!In! his!way,!bo h!s udies!
call!a en ion! o!how!people!connec ! o! hei !pas ! h ough!d ess!objec s!in! he!wa d obe,!
o!how,! h ough! alking!abou ! hei !pas !wa d obes,!people! ecall!how! hey!used! o!be!
and!how! his!makes! hem!wha ! hey!a e!now.!Because!I! ega d! his!aspec ! o!be!missing!
ou !o !unde Q esea ched!in!much!w i ing!abou ! ashion!and!d ess,!I!ha e!seen!i !as!
impe a i e! ha ! his!should!be!implemen ed!in!my!in e iew! echnique.!So,!in!o de ! o!
lea n!mo e!abou !how!my!in o man s!a e!a ec ed!by! hei !pas !wa d obes,!I!made!i !a!
key!guideline!in!my!in e iews! o!ask!abou !da es!o !pu chase.!This!way,!all!d ess!
objec s!in! he!wa d obe!we e!seen! h ough!a! ime!pe spec i e,!pa ing! he!way! o !
pa e ns!wi h! ega d! o!changes!in! hei !sa o ial!s yle! h oughou ! hei !li e.!S a ing!
wi h! he!wa d obe!session!wi h!To ben,!I!asked!him!abou ! he!yea !o !pu chase! o !all!
objec s.!As!I!became!mo e!in e es ed!in! he!issue!o ! ime!a e ! hese!sessions,!I!
conduc ed!a! imeline!in e iew!wi h!him!in!his!ki chen!a e !a!comple e!mapping!ou !o !
his!wa d obe.!In! his!in e iew,!I!would!go!deepe !in o! he! a ious!phases!o !his!li e,! o!
which!his!wa d obe!had!con inuously!been!adjus ed.!!
!
Howe e ,!e en!i ! he!ki chen!in e iew!le !me!wi h!many!in e es ing!pe spec i es!on!
To ben’s!use!o !d ess,!I! ound! ha !i !became! oo!de ached! om! he!d ess!objec s!
hemsel es.!S anding!in! he!wa d obe,!whe e! he!ac ual!d ess!objec s!would!be!a !hand!
so! ha !we!could! ouch! hem!and!look!a ! hem,!wo ked!much!be e .!Lea ing! he!
wa d obe!pa ed! he!way! o !a!kind!o ! a ional!and!pu poseQo ien ed! easoning! ha !was!
lacking!in!any!senso y!pe spec i e.!The e o e,!I! ied! o!make!adjus men s!when! he!
ime!came! o !my!sessions!wi h!Jonas.!A ! he! i s !session,!I!would!go!quickly! h ough!his!
wa d obe!close s,!jus ! o!ge !an!idea!abou !wha !he!had!and!how!he!s o ed!i .!A e ! his,!I!
conduc ed!an!in e iew!wi h!him! ha !was!based!on! i e!pho os!he!had!sen !me,!showing!
wha !he!had!chosen! o!wea !each!day! h oughou !a!single!wo k!week.!A ! his!in e iew,!
hemes!came!up! ha !we e! ela ed! o!bo h!senso y!expe ience!and! o! e lec ions!on!
app op ia eness!and!sel Qpe cep ion.!I!could! he e o e!s a ! he!coding!p ocess!a e ! he!
i s !in e iew,!mapping!ou ! hemes! ha !seemed! o!ma e ! o!Jonas.!These! hemes!we e!
used!in! he!subsequen !wa d obe!session,!which!I! ied! o!s uc u e! e y!s ingen ly!
acco ding! o!a!biog aphic!p inciple.!Howe e ,!i ! u ned!ou ! ha !such!s ingency!did!no !
en i ely!wo k!ou !in!ou !con e sa ion,!since!Jonas!would!o en!jump!a ound!in! he! ime!
sequence,! o !example,!when!he!compa ed!one!d ess!objec ! o!ano he .!!
!
To!sum!i !up,!I! ied! h oughou ! he!sessions!wi h!To ben!and!Jonas! o!de elop!a!me hod!
ha !was!based!on! he!p inciple!o ! he!wa d obe!biog aphy.!I! ound! ha !I!was!becoming!
!
62!
case!o !Jonas,!I!had!asked!him!p e iously! o! ake!pho os!o !wha !he!was!wea ing!each!
day!du ing!one!wo k!week!in! he!sp ing!o !2011.!Sho ly!a e ! his,!in!MayQJune!o ! he!
same!yea ,!I!conduc ed! wo!sessions!in!his!home.!In! he! i s !session,!which!las ed!
app oxima ely!1.5!hou s,!he!b ie ly!showed!me!his!wa d obe,!and! hen!we! alked!abou !
he!pho os!in!his!ki chen.!When!I!came!back! o ! he!nex !session,!I!had! he! hemes! om!
his!in e iew!in! he!back!o !my!head.!This!second!session!las ed!app oxima ely!1.5!
hou s!(see! ig.!2).!Each!in o man !was!s udied! h ough!sho Qlas ing,!exempla y!
expe imen s! o !subsequen ! es ing,!e alua ion!and! u he !use! ha !I! e e ! o!as!
'wa d obe!sessions'!(see! ig.!3).!Each!session!consis ed!o !a!sho Qlas ing!'open!momen ',!
oge he !wi h!my!in o man s,!which!was!buil !la gely!on! he!me hods!'clus e ing'!and!
' he!wa d obe!biog aphy',!which!I!had!de eloped!on! he!basis!o !my!p elimina y!
amewo k!(see! ig.!4).!!
!
!
!
!
(
Fig!1:!Me hod!design! o ! he!s udy!o !To ben!
(
Fig.!2:!Me hod!design! o ! he!s udy!o !Jonas!
Wa d obe!session!
1,5!hou s!
Wa d obe!session!+!
Timeline!in e iew!
1,5!hou s!
In e iew! o !adjus men s!
based!on!w i en!na a i e!
1!hou !
Mobile!p obes!
1!week!
In e iew!abou !p obes!+!
Wa d obe!session!
1,5!hou s!
Wa d obe!session!
1,5!hou s!

!
63!
!
Fig.!3:!Me hod!design!o ! he!wa d obe!session,!as!based!on!soQcalled!'inno a i e!me hods'! om!design!
esea ch!
$
$
(
Fig.!3:!Me hod!componen s!in!each!wa d obe!session!!
(
(
E hnog aphy(and(exempla y(s udies! !
!
!
Th oughou ! hese!'open!momen s',!I!ha e! ollowed! he!use!o !exempla y!s udies!in!much!
use Qcen ed!design! esea ch!by! aking!my!poin !o !depa u e!in! he!mic oQe hnog aphy!
o !Ga inkel!(1984).!In!Ga inkel's!s udy!o ! he!in o man !Agnes,!who!had!unde gone!a!
sexQchange!ope a ion,!he!ques ions!ideas!o !sociological! easoning!by!looking!a !how!!
Wa d obe!session!
exempla y!
(no ! ep esen a i e)!
Sho las ing!
( o!deliena e!ma e ial!
o !la e !wo k)!
Me hod!+!Ou come!=!
en angled!
(Con olled!
expe imen s!in!
exempla y!p ocesses!
o !inqui y)!
Wa d obe!
biog aphy!
Clus e ing!
"open!momen "!
!
64!
!
"membe s([such(as(Agnes](p oduce(s able,(accoun able(p ac ical(ac i i ies(i.e.(social(
s uc u es(o (e e yday(ac i i ies'(on( he(basis(o (' aken( o (g an ed,(backg ound( ea u es(o (
a(pe son's(si ua ion"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(ibid:172/185)!
!
The!case!o !Agnes!can!be!seen!as!being!in!line!wi h!Ta lo's!young!Indian!college!s uden s!
o !Hansen's!young!Zambian!women,!in! he!sense! ha ! hey!a e!all! unning!a!signi ican !
isk!o ! acing!social! uin!in! he!e en !o !disclosu e.!Hence,!I!am!in e es ed!in!Ga inkel's!
concep !o !passing;!wi h! his,!he!add esses!how!Agnes!needs! o!'pass'! o !a!woman,!wi h!
he!aid!o !'passing!de ices':!explana ions,!e asi e!manoeu es,!d ess!s yle,!mo emen s!
and!ges u es!o ! he!body.!As!such,!his! e m!clea ly!calls! o!mind! he!'clo hing!
compe ences'!o !Hansen,!wi h!which!he !Zambian!in o man s!ac !and!d ess!acco ding! o!
ideas!o !app op ia eness.!!
!
In!Ga inkel's!s udy!o !Agnes,!he!has!made!use!o !wha !he!calls!'li e a y!obse a ions',!
wi h! he!aim!o !cap u ing!'seen!bu !unno iced!common!sense!wo ld!o !e e yday!li e'.!
This!en ails! ha ,!much!in!line!o !Whi eman,!his!coding!p ocess!has!been! e y!open,!and!
his! heo e ical! amewo k!has!eme ged!ou !o !a!sensi i i y! owa ds! he!ma e ial,!as!
opposed! o!a! educ ionis ! adi ion!o !'documen ing!unde lying!pa e ns'!(ibid:95).!Wha !
I!ha e!done!in!my!in e iews!wi h!To ben!and!Jonas!is! o!app oach! hem!wi h! his!kind!
o !open! iew! o!wha !I!would!expe ience,!and!as!such,!I!do!no !conside !my! ield!wo k! o!
be!a!p ocess!o !documen ing,!bu ! a he !o !encoun e ing.!My!semiQs uc u ed!in e iews!
can!be!seen! h ough! he!an h opologis ! adi ion!o ,! o !example,!Sp adley,!who!
pe cei es! he!in o man !as!' eache ',!and! he! esea che !as! he!one!who!lea ns.!In! he!
coding!p ocess!o !wha !I!encoun e ed,!Sp adley!has!been!in luen ial!in! he!way!I!ha e!
ied! o!unde s and!' akenQ o Qg an ed'!exp essions,! e ms,!biases,!p e e ences,!and!
senso y!expe iences!o !my!in o man s!(Sp adley!1979).!This!means! ha ,! o !example,!
when!To ben! ells!me! ha !he! inds!a!d ess!objec ! o!be!'p ac ical',!I!ha e! ied! o!ask!
e y!open,!maybe!e en!s upid!ques ions,!and!ha e!made!use!o !ladde ing!in!o de ! o!
inci e!him! o!elabo a e!on!wha !he!means!by! his! e m.!I!ha e!also! ollowed! he!
easoning!behind!any!clus e !To ben!and!Jonas!migh !ha e! o med,!in! he!sense! ha !
hey!ha e!named!all! he!ca ego ies!and!subca ego ies! hemsel es.!In! his!way,!I!ha e!
app oached!my! ield!wo k!in!much! he!way! ha !Bu awoy!ad oca es!'nei he !dis ance!
no !imme sion!bu !dialogue'!(Bu awoy!in:!Bu awoy!e !al.!1991:!4).!I! u he !see!my!
wa d obe!sessions! h ough!Bu awoy's! amewo k!o ! he(in e p e i e(case(me hod,!
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h ough!which!he!' ega ds! he!mic o!con en !as!a!se ing!in!which!a!pa icula !"mac o"!
p inciple![...]! e eals!i sel '!(ibid:6).!Thus,!mac o!s uc u es!can!be!explo ed!and!
examined! h ough!an!e hnome hodological!app oach! o!a!mic o!se ing,!such!as! he!
wa d obe.!!
(
(
Sample(
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!
I!belie e! ha !I!could! ind!aspec s!o ! ele ance! o!my!objec i es!in!any!wa d obe!o !any!
pe son.!Howe e ,!because!o !my!in e es !in!d essing!as!an!ac ! ha !d ama ises!socie al!
ensions!(as!posed!by!i.e.!Da is!1994),!I!was!looking! o !a!g ouping! ha !I!would! ind! o!
ha e!pa icula !d essingQ ela ed!dilemmas,!which!I!could!easily!access.!I!was!qui e!
disin e es ed!in!women,!pa icula ly!younge !women,!since! hey!seemed! o!be! he! ocal!
poin !o ! ela ed!s udies!such!as! he!ones!conduc ed!by!Woodwa d!(2007),!Guy!&!Banim!
(Guy!e !al.!2001),!o !Klepp!(2001).!And!since,!all! hings!conside ed,! his!g ouping!has!
been! he! ocus!o !a en ion!o !much! esea ch!in! ashion!and!d ess,!la gely!because!o ! he!
eminine!conno a ions!associa ed!wi h! he!whole!a ea!(as!a gued!by,! o !example,!
Hollande !1994;!Lipo e sky!1994;!and!En wis le!2000).!I!wan ed! o!con ibu e!
elsewhe e!and! he e o e!decided! o!s udy!a!g oup!o !men.!E en!i !my!aim!was!no ! o!
make!any!kind!o ! ep esen a i e!s udy,!I!s ill! hough! ha !i !appea ed!sensible! o! ind!
in o man s!who!we e!so!simila ! ha !I!would!be!able! o! ind!pa e ns!o !cohe ence!Q!as!
such,! he!g ouping!I! inally!chose!as!my!sample!can!be! iewed!as!being!exempla y.!!!
!
Ea ly!on!in! he!p ojec ,!I!became!awa e!o !a!g ouping! e med!as! ee(agen s!(S andgaa d!
e !al.!2008).!The! e m!poin s! o!changes!in! he!job!ma ke ,!pa icula ly! hose! ha !a e!
going!on!in! he!expanding!a ea!o !c ea i e!indus ies,! ha !a e!gi ing! ise! o!a!new,! imeQ
bound!kind!o !engagemen !be ween!employe !and!employee,!calling!sho Q e m!
consul ancy!con ac s! o!mind.!Thus,! he e!is!an!inc easing!segmen !o ! he!wo k! o ce!
ha !is!being!hi ed!as! eelance s!o !sho Q ime!con ac o s.!I! ind! his! o!be!in e es ing!in!
ela ion! o!my! esea ch! opic,!because! hese!changes!ha e! o!be!seen!as!e ec ua ing! he!
d essingQ ela ed!dilemmas!o !such!a!g ouping.!As!opposed! o! he!mo e!o !less!
o malized!d ess!codes!in!companies,!which!build!on! he!' akenQ o Qg an ed'! alues!in!a!
gi en!company!cul u e!(Schein!2010),!' ee!agen s'!ope a e!on! hei !own,!and!
acco dingly!need! o!de ine! hei !appea ance! hemsel es.!I!see! his! h ough! he!way! ha !
Cla k!&!Salaman!ha e!desc ibed!how!consul an s,!in!pa icula ,!become!'sys ems!o !
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pe suasion',!because! hey!need! o!con ince!clien s!o ! hei !quali y! h ough! he!a !o !
imp ession!managemen .!Hence!' hei !economic!successes!a e!dependen !upon! he!
ex en ! o!which! hey!can!make!c edible! o!clien s! hei !claim! o!o e !some hing!special'!
(Cla k!&!Salaman!1998:19).!Taking!my!inspi a ion!in! his,!I!made! he!p elimina y!
assump ion! ha !men!wo king!in! his!a ea!would!ha e! o!nego ia e!ma e s!o !age!
h ough! hei !appea ance.!Because!o ! he!encoun e !be ween!c ea i i y!and!business!
ha !is! aking!place!in! he!c ea i e!indus ies!sec o !(as!desc ibed!by!i.e.!P a !
2000/2004;!Moe an!&!Pede sen!2011),!I!p esumed! ha !I!would! ind!d essingQ ela ed!
dilemmas!conce ning! he!span!be ween!appea ing! o!ha e!a!ce ain!le el!o !au ho i y!
and!ye ,!a ! he!same! ime,!appea ing!youngQminded!and!'c ea i e'.!And! ha !I!would!
acco dingly! ind!d essing!dilemmas,!as!such,! ha !in ol ed!all!o !my!'sa o ial!sys ems'.!
To!a!ce ain!ex en ,! his!was!con i med! h ough!media!discussions!o !soQcalled!'G ups'!in!
Denma k!and!ab oad;! he! e m!is! aken! om!an!episode!o ! he!sciQ i!TVQse ies,!S a (T ek,!
in!which! he e!is!a!plane !inhabi ed!by!child en!who!name! he!S a !T ek!c ew!'G ups',!
which!is!a!con ac ion!o !'G ownQUps'.!In! ecen !media!deba es,! he! e m!has!been!used!
o!desc ibe!30Q45!yea !old!people!who!nego ia e!age! h ough!li es yle!habi s!such!as! he!
way! ha ! hey!d ess1.!Thus,! hei !d essingQ ela ed!dilemma!conce ns!a!widening!gap!
be ween!biological!age!and!'ageQiden i y',!as!has!been!desc ibed!wi hin! he! esea ch!on!
ge on ology!(Coupland!2009a/2009b);! his!leads! o!a! econs uc ion!o !belie s!abou !age!
in!p esen !socie y!(Ng!1998).!!
!
In!Denma k,! his!deba e!has!e ol ed!in!ways! ha !pa icula ly!conce ns!men!who!we e!
going! o!wo k!d essed!in!a i e! ha !was!pe cei ed! o!be!inapp op ia e!and! oo!you h ul!
by! hei !olde !colleagues;!d ess!objec s!like! aine s,!hoodies!and!baggy!pan s.!I!
app ehend! his! h ough! he!pe spec i e!o !C ane!(2000),!who!has!a gued! ha !masculine!
iden i y!was! adi ionally!de ined! h ough!wo k!o !p oduc ion! a he ! han! h ough!
consump ion,!which!was!seen!as!a!mo e! eminine!p ese e.!And! ha ! his!pushed!men!
in o! he!ac !o !b icoleu ism,!because! hey!needed! o!de ine! o ! hemsel es!wha !was!
meaning ul! o!wea .!This!can!be!aligned!wi h!wha !Ziehe!calls! he!'na cissis ic!
sensibili y'!o !pos Qwa !gene a ions:!a!lack!o !cohe ence!in!socie y! ha !causes!especially!
young!people! o!seek!membe ship!in,! o !example,!subcul u es!o !cul u e!g oupings!
h ough!appea ance,!a i ude!and!consume !goods!(Ziehe!1982).!Such!a!na cissis ic!
sensibili y!can!be!seen! o!ha e!a ec ed!masculini y!in!pa icula ,!as!i !pa ed! he!way! o !
he!soQcalled!'masculine!c isis'.!This!c isis,!which!was! uelled!by!a!combina ion!o !an iQ
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1!h p://nymag.com/news/ ea u es/16529/!! e ie ed!on!Janua y!5,!2011!
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wa !p o es !mo emen s!and!gayQ!and!women’sQ igh s!mo emen s!in! he!1970's,!is!seen!
as!a!key! o!unde s anding! he!changes! ha !a ec ed!male! ole!models!since! ha ! ime,!
esul ing!in!a!line!o !mediaQc ea ed!cha ac e s!like! he!'so '!man,! he!'new'!man,! he!
'new!lad',! he!'übe sexual',!and! he!' e osexual'!(Bly!1990;!Cons an ino!2000;!Gaun le !
2002;!SolomonQGodeau!1997;!Lönnquis !2001;!Malossi!&!Ab ams!(eds.)!2000;!Mo gan!
1993;!Nixon!1996).!As!such,!I!see!mo e!dilemmas! ela ed! o!d essing! ha !a e!a !play! o !
men!who!a e!' ee!agen s'.!This!is!d essing!dilemmas!conce ning,!on! he!one!hand,!issues!
o !age!and!ageing,!and!on! he!o he ,!issues!o !gende .!!
!
Wha !all! his!means!is! ha !I!was!looking! o !in o man s! ha !we e! e y!close! o!wha !
an h opologis s!de ine!as!'home',!as!opposed! o!' ield/away';! hese!men!could! e y!well!
be!my! iends,!o !my!acquain ances,!whom!I!would!s udy!mo e!closely! h ough!' he!
e hnog aphic!lens'!(Bu awoy!e !al.!1991).!They!a e!app oxima ely!my!age;! hey!a e!
knowledgeQeconomy!wo ke s,!like!mysel ;! hey!li e!in! he!same!a ea!as!I!do;!and! hey!
belong! o!app oxima ely! he!same!social!class!as!I!do.!I! he e o e!decided! o! ind!my!‘ ee!
agen s’!among!my!own!ne wo k!o ! acebook! iends.!
!
To!summa ize,!I!was!looking! o !a!sample!wi h!pa icula !d essingQ ela ed!dilemmas,!
which!could!se e! o!ope a ionalise!my!explana o y! amewo k.!Because!I!was!highly!
conce ned!wi h!issues!o ! empo ali y,!I!became!in e es ed!in! he!g ouping!called!' ee!
agen s',!because! hey,!in!pa icula ,!need! o!nego ia e!ma e s!o !age!and!gende ! h ough!
hei !appea ance.!They!had! o!be!adul s,!app oxima ely!be ween!35Q50.!This!was!
necessa y!because!i !is! his!age!g oup! ha !domina es! he!labou !ma ke !o !' ee!agen s',!
and!because! his!age!g oup!would!ha e!some!kind!o !'wa d obe!biog aphy'! ha !I!could!
s udy.!Wha !I!wan ed! o!explo e!was!how! hese!men!na iga ed!be ween!'young'!codes!
o ,! o !example,!subcul u al!s yles,!and!'adul '!codes!o !menswea .!I!wan ed! o!explo e,!
u he mo e,!how! hese!codes!we e!embodied,!and!how! hey!connec ed! he!pas ,!
p esen !and! u u e!wa d obes!o ! hese!men.!!
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INTO$THE$WARDROBES!
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To ben$$
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!
To ben!ha es! ashion.!O !a !leas ,!he!is! e y!c i ical!abou ! he!whole!phenomenon.!I !he!
e e !had!a!s yle!icon,!I!belie e! ha !i !would!ha e! o!be!a!c oss!be ween! he!indie! ock!
band,!My(Bloody(Valen ine,!and! he!F ank u !school! hinke ,!Theodo !Wieseng und!
Ado no.!Be o e!ag eeing! o!be!my! i s !in o man ,!To ben!and!I!had!had!a!discussion!on!
acebook!abou ! ashion!and!'signals'.!This!was!because!I!had!commen ed!on!an!upda e!
whe e!he!w o e:!!
!
"am( eally( i ed(o (hea ing( ashion7(and(li es yle(expe s(discuss(how(we(all(wea (clo hes( o(
send(ou (ce ain(signals".!! ! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(To ben!on! acebook:!No embe !22,!2010)!
!
A e ! his,!se e al!commen s! u ned!up,!sen !by!his! acebook! iends,!such!as!"I(belie e(
ha (I(send(ou (a(much(clea e (signal(when(I( ake(my(clo hes(o ",!and!"T iangle(playe s(
belie e( ha (God(is( iangula .(Fashion(people(belie e( ha (people(a e(occupied(wi h( ashion(
and( hink(abou (i (all( he( ime".!As!I!s a ed!in e e ing!and!ques ioning! hese!claims,!
To ben!w o e! his! o!me:!!
(
"Bu (Else,(you(a e(making( he(same(w ong(conclusion(as([ iend!x].(So(I(mus ( epea (my(
e y(simple(poin :( ha (we(inciden ally(send(ou (signals(wi h(ou (clo hes(is(no ( he(same(as(
pu ing( hem(on( o(send(ou (signals.(I( e y( e y( a ely(pu (on(clo hing( o(send(ou (ce ain(
signals.(I(wea ( hings( ha (I(belie e(sui (me(well(and(a e(p ac ical( o ( he(si ua ion.(I(e en(
wea (clo hes( ha (I(do(no (pa icula ly(like,(bu (ha e(a(dis inc (p ac ical( unc ion.(So(unless(
you( hink( ha (I(am(lying,(you(mus ( e ise(you (opinion(abou (me,(because(I(don' (d ess(up(
o(signal(some hing(in(pa icula "!!
!
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I !was!a e ! his! ha !we!ag eed! ha !I!should!come! o!his!home!and!see!his!wa d obe!Q! o!
discuss!wha !he!ac ually!d esses!up! o ,!and!wha !d essing!means! o!him.!!
!
To ben!is!45!yea s!old!and!li es!in!an!apa men !in!Copenhagen!wi h!his!wi e!and!
daugh e .!A ! he! ime!o ! he!in e iew,!he!has!a!pa Q ime!posi ion!in!a! esea ch!p ojec !
a ! he!uni e si y,!and! eeQlances!as!an!a !c i ic!in!a!newspape .!This!means! ha !he!
spends!his!wo king!hou s!a !his!uni e si y!o ice,!in!his!apa men ,!and!a ound!and!
abou !a !mee ings!o !public!deba es.!His!apa men !is! illed!wi h!bookshel es,!and! he e!
a e! oys!and!o he !kids!s u !lying!a ound.!This!is!an!apa men !o !a!busy! amily.!I !is!
nea ,!cosy!and! unc ional.!In!his!bed oom,!he!sha es!a!whi e!wallQ oQwall!wa d obe!
close !wi h!his!wi e.!The!close !consis s!o !eigh !cabine s.!To ben!and!his!wi e!each!ha e!
h ee!cabine s,!and!sha e! wo!whe e! hey!s o e!bed!linens,! owels,!glo es,!umb ellas,!
ha s!and!o he !accesso ies.!To ben!has!one!cabine !wi h!shel es!and! wo!wi h!pegs.!The!
la e !con ains!laund y! o ! he!whole! amily! ha !happens! o!be!heaped!up!in! he!bo om,!
and!on!hange s,!he!s o es!his!shi s,!jacke s,!blaze s,!longQslee ed!and!sho Qslee ed!TQ
shi s!and! ouse s,!all!o ! hese!being!hung!on!hange s.!In! he!cabine !wi h!shel es,!he!
s o es!unde wea ,!socks,!kni wea ,!and!spo swea .!In! he!hallway,!he!keeps!shoes!and!
ou e wea .!!
!
As!we!go! h ough!his!d ess!objec s! h oughou ! he! wo!sessions,!i !becomes!clea ! o!me!
ha !he!possesses!a!limi ed! ange!o !objec s! ha !a e!highly!ac i e,!while!la ge !pa s!o !
his!wa d obe!a e! e y!passi e.!We!e en! ind!hange s!wi h!qui e!a! ew! ouse s! ha !he!
has! o go en!all!abou ,!because!he!hasn' !used! hem! o !abou !a!decade.!This!is!
somewha !su p ising! o!me,!since!he!has!a! e y!limi ed!amoun !o !space,!bu !i ’s!as!i !he!
has!de eloped!a! e y! ocused!way!o !ge ing!d essed,!whe e! he e!is!a!minimum!o ! ime!
loss.!The eby,!passi e!objec s!a e!simply! o go en,!and!i !appea s!as! hough!he! e y!
a ely! e ises!wha !he!s o es.!Ano he ! hing! ha !su p ises!me!is! ha !e en!i !he!‘ha es!
ashion’!and!e e y hing! ha !has! o!do!wi h!i ,!he!has!a! a he !dis inc !s yle! ha !is!
epea ed!back!in! ime,!which!has! o!do!wi h!his!adolescen !yea s!as!a!pos Qpunk! an.!As!
we! alk!ou !way!back! o! ha !pe iod! h ough! he!d ess!objec s! ha !he!shows!me,!I!can!
ell! ha ! he e!a e! a ious!phases!o !his!li e!whe e!he!has!made!adjus men s!in!his!
wa d obe,!such!as!when!he!s a ed!wo king,!and!when!he!me !his!wi e!and! hey!had!
hei !daugh e .!!
!
As!I!s a ed!ou !asking!him! o!base! he!en i e!session!on!a!kind!o !wa d obe!hie a chy,!
he!chose! o!begin!wi h!his!shi s.!Then!he!mo ed!on! o,! espec i ely,!passi e!d ess!
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objec s,!TQshi s,!kni wea ,! ouse s,! oo wea ,!and!las ly,!ou e wea .!The! ac ! ha !he!
places! he!passi e!d ess!objec s!second!in! he!hie a chy!su p ises!me,!bu ! hen!I!see!how!
much!he!s o es! ha !he! a ely!uses.!I ’s!a!lo .!!
(
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'Conse a i e'!
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The!mos !belo ed!d ess!objec !in!To ben's!wa d obe!is!a!dus y!g een!shi ! ha !is!now!
s a ing! o!wea !ou .!He!wo e!i ! o !his!wedding.!I !is!in!a!co on!blend,!somewha !slimQ
line!in!shape,!and!wi h!a!medium!size!colla .!As!he! alks!abou ! he!che ished!shi ,!he!
akes!ou !a!simila !one! ha !he!pu chased! ecen ly,!because! he!o iginal!one!is!wea ing!
ou :! he!bu ons!a e! alling!o ,!and! he! ab ic!is!ge ing! hinne !and! hinne !in! a ious!
places,!and!he!doesn' !know!how! o!mend!i ,!which!saddens!him.!He!has! ied!
despe a ely! o!buy! his!simila !shi ,!bu !i !will,!acco ding! o!To ben,!ne e !be! he!same.!!
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!
To ben!shows!me!his! a ou i e!g een!shi .!I !is!s a ing! o!wea !ou ,!and!he!has! ied! o! ind!a!simila !one.!
Bu !he’s!no !al oge he !sa is ied.!I ’s!jus !no ! he!same!!!
!!
We! alk!abou ! his!shi !du ing! he! i s !session,!whe e!To ben!has!placed!his!shi s,!in!
h ee!heaps,!on!his!bed.!One!o ! he!heaps!is!called!'pa y!shi s';! his!consis s!o !only!one!
shi :!a!black!shi !wi h!an!o namen Qlike! lowe !pa e n.!The! lowe s!a e!small,!bu !
a he !colou ul.!This!shi !is!only!used! o !pa ying,!ne e ! o !o he !e en s.!In! he!
middle!is!a!heap! ha !he!calls!'e e yday!d ess!shi s!(po en ially!pa y)'.!I !is!in! his!heap!
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ha !he!places!his! a ou i e!shi .!The e!a e!qui e!a! ew!simila !shi s!in!a!simila !cu ,!and!
he!colou s!a e!all! e y!b igh !and!monoch ome.!To ben!insis s! ha !I! emembe ! ha !he!
ac ually!has!a!lo !o !black!shi s,!bu ! ha ! hese!a e!in! he!laund y!bin.!The! hi d!heap!he!
calls!'pu ely!e e yday'.!This!heap!is!much!mo e! a ied!in!s yle!and!colou .!The e!a e!
qui e!a! ew!whi e!shi s!in! a ious!cu s!and!sizes,!and!some!wi h! a ious!kinds!o !
pa e ns!and!colou s.!!
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The! h ee!heaps!o !shi s!on!To ben's!bed.!O ! hese,!he!p e e s! he!ones! om! he!ca ego y,!'pa y!shi ',!and!
'e e yday!d essy!shi s',!abou !which!he!uses!wo ds!like!'p ac ical',!' i m',!'s i ',!and!' unky'.!The! hi d!heap,!
'pu ely!e e yday',!consis s!o !i ems! ha !he!ne e !wea s!ou side!o !his!home.!These!a e!desc ibed!wi h!
wo ds!like!'pyjamasQlike',!'so ',!' lu y',!' lowe !powe ',!'hippieQlike',!' oo! ague!in!colou ',!'a!bi ! oo! aded!in!
colou ',!and!'p e y!bo ing'.!!
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I ! u ns!ou ! ha ! he!dus y!g een!shi !is! he! i s !shi !he!e e !pu chased,!way!back!in!
2003.!He!s a ed!wea ing!shi s!a e !he!ended!his!s uden !yea s!and!s a ed!wo king.!
To ben!likes!shi s! o!ha e!colla s!and!cu s! ha !a e!'s i '!and!' i m'.!Because! hen!i !
doesn' !cu l!up!and!need!i oning.!As!we! alk!mo e!abou !i ,!he!explains!how!he!' eels!a!
bi !mo e!cool!when!my!shi !is!s i !and! i m'.!On! he!con a y,! he e!a e!qui e!a! ew!
shi s!in!his!'pu ely!e e yday'!heap!abou !which!he!says! hings!like:!' hen! he e’s! his!
eeling!whe e!I! hink,!damn,! his!shi ,!i 's!jus ! oo!so '.!As!I!can! ell!by!looking!a ! hem,!
hey!a e!p obably!also! oo!big!Q!a !leas ! he!sizes!a e! e y!i egula !in! his!heap,!so! his!
migh !be! he! eason! ha !he’s!no !wea ing! hem!in!public!a !all.!!!
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When!To ben!s a ed!wea ing!shi s,!he!s a ed!i oning! hem!as!well,!which!he!s ill! inds!
is!a! e y!‘adul ’! hing! o!do.!Fo !To ben,!shi s!a e! e y! ela ed! o!g owing!up.!Un il!he!
s a ed!wo king!and!had!his!daugh e ,!he!used! o!wea !TQshi s,!bu !he! ound! ha !he!
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he!heaps! ha !he!has!so ed,!as!I!ask!him! epea edly!abou !his!likes!and!dislikes.!E en!i !
he!has! ans o med!a! o me ly!gloomyQlooking!blackQd essed! eenage !in o!an!adul !
man!wea ing!colou ul!shi s,!wha !is! isually!p esen !is! ha !ce ain!shapes!and!kinds!o !
ab ics!appeal! o!him,!shapes!and! ab ics! ha !he! ound!in! he!punk!s yle.!No!changes!in!
his!wa d obe!ha e!happened!o e !nigh .!S yles!o !d ess!ha e!been!slowly!phased!in!o !
phased!ou !in!speci ic!pe iods!o !his!li e,!and!in! esponse! o!speci ic,!ex e io ! easons!like!
aking!on!a!new!job,!choosing!a!pa ne ,!o !ha ing!his!daugh e .!One! e y!impo an !
eason!he e!is! he! ac ! ha !his!body!has!changed! om!a!slende ,!you h ul!body! o!a!
g own!man's!body.!In! ela ion! o! his,! he e!a e!many!objec s!in! he!wa d obe! ha !he!
doesn' !wea !anymo e,!bu !con inues! o!s o e!in! he!hope! ha !he!migh !one!day! egain!
his! o me !shape.!Meanwhile,!he!has! ound!a!solu ion!in! he!shi s!and! he!win e !coa !
wi h!a!'moulded'!shape! ha !he!can!s ep!in o!and! he eby!ob ain!an!accep able!body!
shape! ha !migh !no !be!slim,!bu ,!in!any!e en ,!a!kind!o !squa eQish!TQshape.!This!
demands! ha ! he! ab ic!be! e y!'s i '!and!' i m',!and! his!seems! o!be!a! e y!impo an !
eason! o !why!he!p e e s! hese!quali ies.!As!a!schola !o ! ashion!and!d ess,!I!was!
su p ised!a ! i s !abou !his!ha e! owa ds! ashion.!Bu ! ying! o!see! hings! om!his!poin !
o ! iew,!I!begin! o!unde s and!him:! ashion!is!all!abou !change,!and! his!is!wha !he!does!
no !wan .!Ins ead,!he!wan s! o!be!able! o! ind!again!wha !he! eally!likes.!This!would!
enable!him! o! epea ! he! as e!pa e ns!he!has!de eloped,!which!wo k!well! o !him.!
Fashion!s ops!him! om!doing! ha .!On! he!o he !hand,!he!is!no !comple ely!a!s ange ! o!
changing! ashions;! his!is!some hing! ha !came! o!ligh !in! he!session!we!had!abou !
ouse s.!He!has!ac ually!s opped!wea ing! ouse s! ha !we e! ashionable! en!yea s!ago.!
Howe e ,!he!has!no ! egis e ed! ha !he!has!changed!his!d essing!beha iou !because!o !
changing! ashions,!bu !me ely! ha !he!used! o!like! hese!'so '! ouse s,!and!now!he!likes!
jeans.!Ac ually,!he!ne e ! ela es!his!clo hes! o! ashion!a !all.!Wi h! ega d! o!his!choice!o !
shi s,! hey!mus !no !be! oo! o mal,!which!is!why!he!ne e !wea s!a! ie,!o !'nigh Qshi !
like'!shi s.!I!was!ne e !su e!exac ly!wha !he!mean !by! his!because!he!didn' !ha e!any,!
bu !my!guess!is! ha ! hese!we e!mo e!like!classical!business!shi s!wi h!s ipes!o !
checks.!He! e y!much!app ecia es!'p ac ical'! ea u es!in!his!wa d obe,!bu ! his!de ini ion!
u ned!ou ! o!be! e y!di use:!i !co e s!bo h! he! unc ionali y!o !an!objec !such!as! he!
amoun !o !pocke s!and! he!high!quali y!o !a! ab ic,!his!d ess!p ac ice!in!gene al,!and!
objec s! ha !he!does!no !necessa ily!app ecia e!on! he!basis!o !aes he ics!bu !mo e!
because! hey!p o ec !him! om!wea he !condi ions!like!cold!o ! ain.!Las ly,! he!
subcul u al!s yle!o !his!you h!seems! o!be!in!a!ca ego y!o !i sel ,!as!i !i !was! he!s a ing!
poin !o ! he!whole!wa d obe,!wi h!la e !adjus men s!o ! he!same! hema ics.!!
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Me hod( e ision(
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The! ac ! ha !e e y!single!i em!in! he!wa d obe!was!picked!ou !and!displayed!alongside!
simila !objec s!caused!him! o! e lec !abou !his!clo hes!in!a!way! ha !made!him!su p ised!
and!made!him!see!his!wa d obe!in!a!new!ligh .!He! old!me,!se e al! imes,! ha !he!
o dina ily! ies! o!spend!as!li le! ime!as!possible!ge ing!d essed!o !e en! hinking!abou !
clo hing!and!appea ance!a !all,!bu ! ha !now! ha !we!had!been!looking!mo e!closely!a !
wha !he!was!s o ing,!he!could!indeed!spo !ce ain!simila i ies!and!di e ences! ha !he!
had!no !seen!be o e.!While!he!migh ! ind!i ! e y!di icul ! o!desc ibe!his!p e e ences!
e bally,!he!had!many!wo ds! o !exp essing!why!he!disliked!ce ain!objec s.!Realising!
wha !was!'w ong'!wi h! he!mo e!passi e!objec s!helped!him! ealise!and!exp ess!his!
p e e ences,!because!he!could!compa e! ea u es!like! ab ic,!colou !and!shape!as!we!we e!
speaking.!Fo !ins ance,!i !had!no !dawned!on!him! ha !mos !o !his!a icles!o !passi e!
clo hing!we e!simply!o ! he!w ong!size.!!
I!was!somewha ! ocused!on! he!wa d obe!hie a chy.!I !wo ked!well!as!a!kickQs a e ! o !
he!con e sa ion,!bu !didn' ! e lec !how!he!uses!his!wa d obe.!Fo !example,! he!clo hes!
he!ne e !uses!came!in!as! he!second!‘mos !impo an ’!ca ego y.!This!could!simply!no !
se e! o! e lec !his!cu en !d essingQ ela ed!beha iou .!Ano he !p oblem!was! he!
imeline!in e iew.!Looking!a !To ben’s!wa d obe,!I!could! ell!how! he! ans o ma ion!o !
a!'young'!wa d obe!in o!a!mo e!'adul '!one!could!be!deciphe ed! h ough! he!objec s!he!
was!cu en ly!s o ed.!In! he!wa d obe!sessions,!he!could! ecognise!pa e ns!o !
p e e ences!by!seeing!and! ouching! he!objec s.!He!could! ealise!and! e balise! hese!
pa e ns! h ough!exp essing!likes! o !ce ain! ex u es!o !shapes,!and!dislikes! o !o he s.!!
!
In! he! imeline!in e iew! ha !we!conduc ed!in! he!ki chen,!I!could!build!my!ques ions!
a ound!wha !we!had!seen!in! he!wa d obe.!Bu ! he! imeline!became! e y!ins umen al!
and! a ionalised,!and! he!connec ions!be ween!objec s!o !an!olde !and!a!newe !da e!
we e!los .!The!wa d obe!biog aphy!was! old!ad!hoc,!wi h!one!e en !and!li e!phase!
ollowing!a e ! he!p eceding! e m.!I !ce ainly! old!me!qui e!a!lo !abou !To ben!as!a!
pe son,!bu !did!no ! ell!me!enough!abou !his!d essingQ ela ed!p ac ice.!I! he e o e!came!
o! he!conclusion! ha !in! he!sessions!wi h!Jonas,! he! imeline!pe spec i e!would!ha e! o!
be!implemen ed!du ing!–!and!in eg a ed! igh !in o!–! he!wa d obe!sessions,!and!would!
ha e! o! eplace! he!wa d obe!hie a chy.!In! his!way,!I!could!lea n!abou !pa e ns!o ! as e!
and!d ess!beha iou ! h ough! he!clo hes!in! he!wa d obe.!
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Wha !I! el !was!missing!was!ma e ial!on!wha ! ook!place!in! he!daily! ou ines!and!
p ac ices!o !To ben.!He!had! old!me!a!bi !abou !wha !objec s!he!could!use! o !wha !
si ua ions,!bu ! his!migh !ha e!been! a ionalisa ions!as!well:!in!any!e en ,!I!had!no!
access! o! his!in o ma ion.!The e o e,!I! u ned! o! he!cul u al!p obes!me hod,!as!a!way!o !
gaining!insigh !in o! he!daily!li es!o !my!in o man s.!Again,!I!wan ed! he!d ess!objec s! o!
be!cen al!in! he!sessions,!and!a!way! o!accomplish! ha !was! o!ask!Jonas! o!c ea e!
'wa d obe!dia ies',!and!send!me!pho os!o !his!daily!ensembles.!This!would!ha e! he!
ad an age!o !p epa ing!his!mindQse !be o e! he!sessions,!since!i !would!inci e!him! o!
s a ! e lec ing!mo e!ac i ely!on!his!d ess!p ac ice.!I !would!also!p o ide!ma e ial!abou !
he!dayQ oQday!nego ia ions! ha ! ake!place!a !his!wo kplace,!which!was!a!key!in e es !o !
mine.!Wi h! hese! e isions!in!mind,!I!con ac ed!Jonas.!!
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Jonas!
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Jonas!is!38!yea s!old,!and!li es!in!a!house!in!Copenhagen!wi h!his!wi e!and! wo!
daugh e s.!He!wo ks!as! he!di ec o !o !de elopmen !in!a!la ge!o ganisa ion.!Be o e!my!
i s !session!wi h!Jonas,!we!had!had!a! e y!sho !mee ing!a !his!o ice,!whe e!I! old!him!
abou ! he!p ojec !and!p o ided!him!wi h! asks! o ! he!p obes.!On!each!day!du ing!one!
wo k!week,!he!was! o!send!me!a!pic u e!o !wha !he!was!wea ing.!He!was! o! ake! he!
pic u es!wi h!his!sma phone,!and!send! hem!di ec ly! o!my!inQbox.!This!way,!i !wouldn' !
be! oo! ime!consuming! o !him.!I!had!also!p o ided!him!wi h!a!small!no ebook,!whe e!he!
was! o!commen !on! he! a ious!ou i s!be o e!ou !scheduled!mee ing!in!his!home.!The!
i e!pho os!a i ed!in!my!inbox,!and!be o e!going! o!his!apa men ,!I!p in ed!ou !each!
pho o!on!a!piece!o !whi e!ca dboa d.!Along!wi h!me,!I!b ough !pens!in! a ious!colou s,!
so! ha !he!could!w i e!and!d aw!on! he!p in ed!images!while!he! alked!abou ! hem.!A e !
a! unQ h ough!o ! he!pho os,!I!wan ed!him! o!g ade! hem!acco ding! o!wha !he!liked!o !
disliked.!
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When!I!a i ed,!we!had!co ee,!and! hen!we! an!quickly! h ough!all! he!d ess!objec s!he!
s o es.!Then!we!sa !down!and!looked!a ! he!pho os.!The!wa d obe! ha !me !me!in! he!
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bed oom!o !Jonas!and!his!wi e!was,!in!some!ways,!simila ! o!To ben's,!bu !i !was!also!
e y!di e en .!Again,!a!whi e!wallQ oQwall!close !was!sha ed,!bu !because! hei !bed oom!
was!smalle ! han! he!one!a !To ben's!house,! he!close !was!smalle !as!well.!The!close !
was!di ided!in!such!a!way! ha !on!each!side!o ! he!doo ! o! he!bed oom,! he e!we e!
cabine s.!To! he!le !o ! he!doo !we e! wo!cabine s,!wi h!hange s!in! wo!sec ions.!The!
uppe !sec ion!wi h!hange s!belongs! o!Jonas,!and!i !is!he e! ha !he!s o es!his!shi s!and!
kni wea .!The!lowe !sec ion!belongs! o!his!wi e.!The! i s ! hing! ha !I!no iced!was!how!
much!clo hing!he!was!s o ing.!I!also!no iced! ha ! he e!was!a!much!b oade ! a ie y!in!
s yle!and!colou ! han!wha !I!saw!in!To ben’s!close .!The!second! hing!I!no iced!was!how!
o de ly!and!nea !e e y hing!had!been!hung!and!placed.!The!same! hing!sp ang!in o!my!
eyes!when!I! ook!a!look!a ! he!cabine s!on! he! igh !side!o ! he!doo ,!which!he!also!
sha ed!wi h!his!wi e.!The!le !one!was! o !his!wi e's!long!d esses!and!o he !longe !
objec s!such!as!long!jacke s,!o !a!mo ning!gown.!In! he! wo! igh !cabine s! he e!we e!
hange s! o ! ouse s,!which!he!sha ed!wi h!his!wi e:!in! he!le !side,!she!had!ski s;!in! he!
igh !he!had! o mal! ouse s.!Below! he!hange s,! hey!sha ed! ou !d awe s.!The! op!
d awe ,!which!he!called!'my!de es ed!d awe '!was! igh ly!packed!wi h!TQshi s,!hoodies!
and!a! ew!kni wea !i ems.!In! he!nex !one,!he!was!s o ing!nea ly! olded!jeans.!When!he!
opens! he!d awe !below,!whe e!he!keeps!a! a ie y!o !accesso ies!like!bel s,! ies,!badges,!
cu links!and!handke chie s.!This!d awe ,!below! he! op! wo,!is!one! ha !he!sha es!wi h!
his!wi e.!So!he!has!accesso ies!in! he!le !side,!while!she!has!he s!in! he! igh !side.!All! he!
bel s!we e! olled!up!and! ucked!nicely!in! he!small!buil Qin!boxes!in! he!d awe ,!and! he!
handke chie s!had!been! olded!nea ly!and!placed!acco ding! o!colou .!!
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All!in!all,!Jonas!has!mo e!s o age!space! han!his!wi e,!and!s ill!he! inds!i !ha d! o! ind!
enough!place! o !wha !he!wan s!Q!e en!i !he!explains! ha ! hey!s o e!away! hei !summe !
clo hes!in! he!win e ,!and! ice! e sa.!As!did!To ben,!Jonas!commen s!on! he!objec s! ha !
a e!cu en ly!in! he!laund y!bin,!which!amoun ,! i s !and! o emos ,! o!a! e y!imp essi e!
selec ion!o !socks!–!in!a! a ie y!o !colou s.!He! ells!me!how!his! ondness! o !socks!is!
connec ed!wi h!his! ondness! o !combining!and!ma ching!colou s.!Wha !is!mos ! isible!
and!easy! o! each!in!his!wa d obe!a e! he!shi s!and! he!kni wea !and! he!mo e! o mal!
ouse s,! he!jeans!and! he!accesso ies.!Wha !is!kep !in! he!bo om!o ! he!'my!de es ed!
d awe '!is!homewea !like!so !'e ening!swea e s'!o !'cozy!wea ',! o !when!he!ge s!home!
and!wan s! o! elax!in! he!e ening.!!
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To!sum! his!up,!in! he! i s !session,!Jonas!s a ed!ou !by!showing!me!a!quick! iew!o !his!
wa d obe,!be o e!we!s a ed! he!p obes!in e iew.!We!looked!a !wha !he!was!s o ing!in!
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his!wa d obe!close .!A e ! ha ,!we!wen !down!in o! he! oye ,! o!look!a !his! oo wea .!
Then!he!showed!me!his!g ooming!p oduc s!on! he!ba h oom,!and! inally!he!showed!me!
his!collec ion!o !glasses.!In! he!second!session,!he!s a ed!ou !wi h!his!oldes !d ess!
objec ,!a!F ed!Pe y!polo!shi .!He! hen!mo ed! o!olde !2Hand!objec s,! ecen ly!
pu chased!kni wea !and!hoodies,!some!old! ailo ed!shi s,! ecen ly!pu chased!designe !
shi s!and!designe !TQshi s,!olde ! ock!me chandise!TQshi s,!accesso ies,!olde ! ailo Q
made!sui s,! ecen ly!pu chased!madeQ oQmeasu e!sui s,!and!a!madeQ oQmeasu e!
Ha ing on!jacke .!!
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As!Jonas!has!al eady! old!me,!he!is,!a ! he! ime!o ! he!session,!going! h ough!a!phase!o !
change!because!he! ecen ly! ook!on!a!new!job.!Be o e! his!change,!he! el !he!could!d ess!
in!a!mo e! elaxed!and!casual!way,!whe eas!now,!he! eels! ha !he!needs! o!‘shape!up’.!He!
alks!abou !how! o!combine! he!' wo!wo lds'!o !business!and!c ea i i y! ha !he!is!
engaged!wi h!in!his!new!job!as!a!consul an !in!a! ade!o ganisa ion!in! he!c ea i e!
b anch.!When!we!look!a ! he!pho os! ha !he!has!sen !me!be o e! he!in e iew,! hese!
conce ns!eme ge!as!he!speaks!o ! he! a ious!ensembles!he!has!pu ! oge he ! o ! he!
a ious!wo k!days.!A e !only!a!sho !while,!i !becomes!clea ! o!me! ha !Jonas!has!a! e y!
di e en ! ocabula y! o !d ess! han! ha !which!To ben!uses.!Jonas!is!‘in o!de ails’! e y!
much!indeed,!and!appea s! o!enjoy!spending! ime!in! he!mo ning!ma ching!and!
combining!wha ! o!wea .!He! ells!me! ha !his!mo ning! i uals! o !d essing! ake!abou !15Q
20!minu es.!This!is!comple ely!opposi e! om!To ben,!who! ied! o!spend!as!li le! ime!as!
possible!on! his!p ocess!Q!pe haps!a! ew!minu es.!When!Jonas!speaks!abou !wha !he!
wea s,!he!pays!a en ion! o!all!so s!o !de ails,!and!is!awa e!o ! he!name!on! he!designe !
labels,!and!designe !de ails!like! ypes!o !cu !o ! immings.!He!desc ibes!his!Monday!
ensemble!(pic u e!below)!in! he! ollowing!way:!!
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A$combina ion$o $ he$casual,$jeans$wi h$ lip ups,$and$ hen,$a $ he$same$ ime,$ his$business like$uppe $
body.!
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Jonas'!Monday!ensemble.!On! he!pho o!he!is!w i ing!no es!such!as:!' lip!ups',!Cla k!dese !boo s',!o !'colou !
ma ch'!while!we!a e! alking.!!
!
He e,!he!is!wea ing!a!whi e!bu onQdown!shi !and!g ey!jeans!wi h! lipQups,!a!na y!
woollen!blaze !and!black!dese !boo s!o ! he!'Cla ks'!b and.!On! he!badge!pinned! o!his!
blaze ’s!lapel!is!a!s a emen !abou ! he!use!o !CO2!in! ap!wa e ! e sus!bo led!wa e .!I !is!
colou ma ched!wi h!his!bel .!On! his!day,!he!wo ked!a ! he!o ice,!and! hen!had!a!
mee ing!wi h!poli icians!and!NGOs.!When!I!ask!him! o!g ade! his!ensemble!on!a!scale!
om!1Q10!he!ga e!i !an!‘8’.!This!is! he! op!g ade!he!gi es,!and!only! he!Monday!and!
Wednesday!ensembles!ge ! his!g ade.!He! inds! ha !he!has!go ! he!balance!jus ! igh !in!
his!ensemble,! he!balance!be ween! o mal!and!casual,!as!he! inds! ha !he!looks!
' ep esen able,!bu ! hen!I’m!no ! he! ype!who!wea s!a! ie'.!He! ells!me! ha !a !his! o me !
wo kplace,!he!could!occasionally!wea !a! ie! o !ce ain! ypes!o !mee ings!and!e en s,!bu !
ha !i !is!no !possible!a !his!new!job:! ha !would!be!a!'noQgo'.!!Ano he ! hing! ha !is!now!a!
‘noQgo’!is! o!wea ! he!same!ensemble! o !mo e! han!one!day!a !a! ime.!He!has! o!change!
e e y!day.!This!is!pa ly!due! o! he! ac ! ha !a !his!new!wo k!place,!people!a e! a !mo e!
s yle!conscious! han! hey!we e!a ! he! o me !one,!and! his!a ec s!Jonas!a!lo :!!
$
The$issue$looms$up$mo e$in$my$consciousness,$also$in$ ela ion$ o$colou $ma ching,$and$whe he $o $
no $i $should$be$long$o $sho $ ouse s$like,$whe he $ he e$should$be$ lip ups$o $no ,$and$how$ a $up$
hey$ough $ o$be$ lipped,$so$ ha $you$can$see$a$sock$o $…$ hese$small$de ails$a e$mo e$impo an $now$
han$wha $ hey$used$ o$be.$$
!
Wednesday!is! e y!simila ! o!Monday,!aside! om! he! ac ! ha !in! he!e ening,!he!has! o!
make!a! e y!impo an !p esen a ion.!Fo ! his,!he!wea s! he!same!blaze !as!he!did!on!
Monday,!a!blue!bu onQdown!shi ,! igh ! i !g ey!jeans,!black!bel ,!black!dese !boo s!and!
his!blue!badge.!As!such,! he!ensemble!is! e y!simila ! o! he!Monday!one.!The!adjus men !

!
84!
he!has!made!since!Monday!lies!pa icula ly!in! he!change!o !shi ,!which!he! inds!is!mo e!
businessQlike! han! he!whi e!bu onQdown!shi .!S ill,!he!emphasises! ha !i !is!a!designe !
shi ,!o ! he!Mads!Nø gaa d!b and,!and!no !a!business!shi !pu chased! om!a!menswea !
manu ac u e .!I !has!designe Qde ails!such!as! he! ype!o !bu ons;! he e!a e!s aps!on! he!
slee es,!and! he!black!and!whi e!s ipes!a e!sligh ly!mo e!dominan ! han! hey!would!be!
in!a!classic!business!shi ,!he!says.!As!we! alk!abou ! his,!we!ag ee! ha !wha !he!is! eally!
looking! o !is!wha !migh !be!called!a!'so !business'!s yle.!!
(
(
Classics(
!!
!
As!we! alk!abou ! he!changes!he!is!cu en ly!unde going,!Jonas!has! his! o!say:!!
$
The e's$been$a$li le$ex a$ ocus$on$all$ his$ ha 's$come$abou .$And$I$jus $ eel$ ha ’s$a$na u al$ hing,$bu $
I$also$belie e$ ha ,$well,$my$de elopmen $will$con inue,$bu $a $a$ce ain$poin $I$ hink$i $will$s op.$
Because$I$am$no $d essing$ o $all$ ha $is$ op$mode n,$and$ o $ his$ ype$o $ ashion$ ollowe $and,$I$ hink$
ha $ eally,$I$ha e$my$ e e ences$mo e$o $less$in$place,$ ha $is,$wha $kinds$o $s yles$ ha $in e es $me,$
and$on$which$I$d aw.$$
!
This! heme!abou !how!he!d aws!on!speci ic! e e ences!as!he!d esses,!and!how! hese!
e e ences!ha e!become!e en!mo e!impo an !a e !changing!his!job,!comes!up!se e al!
imes!du ing! he!sessions.!Fo !example,! he e!is!one!poin !whe e!we!s and!in!his! oye ,!
looking!a !all!o !his!shoes!–!which!he!has! aken!ou !and!placed!on! he! loo .!The e!a e!
mos ly!dese !boo s!o !soQcalled!'Wallabees',!o ! he!'Cla ks'!b and,!and!sneake s!o ! he!
'Con e se'!b and! ha !a e! e y!simila !in!shape!and!ma e ial;! hese!ankle!boo s!all!ha e!
ounded!noses,!and! hey!a e!all!made!ou !o !lea he !o !suede.!The!colou s!a e!da k!o !
simply!black.!He!says! ha !he!likes!shoes! o!be:!
!
So $in$ he$edges$and$no $supe $dis inc $and$exp essi e.$I$ha e$an$o e all$app oach$ o$ ends$ ha $
a i e$and$pass:$I$ac ually$jus $like$ o$s ay$wi h$ he$classics.$$
$
$
!
85!
!
Jonas!shows!me!a!shoe!o !!wha !he!calls!' he!Cla k! amily'.!All!o !his!shoes!a e!like! hese,!almos !iden ical!in!
colou !and!shape!and! ex u e,!e en!i ! hey!a e!no !all!o ! he! e y!same!b and.!!
!
As!was! he!case!wi h!To ben's!use!o ! he! e m,!'p ac ical',!'classics'!co e !a!numbe !o !
aspec s! ela ed! o!Jonas'!in e ac ion!wi h!his!wa d obe.!Fi s !o !all,!i !co e s!how!he!has!
s a ed! o! eQconnec !wi h!his!pas !wa d obe,!in!o de ! o! ind!his!own!way! h ough! he!
cu en !pe iod!o !change.!He! ells!me! ha !when!he!was!younge ,!he!was!much!mo e!
ocused!on!his!appea ance! han!he!is!now.!He! ela es! his! o!a!speci ic!pe iod!when!he!
s a ed! o!open!his!eyes! o!music!and!consequen ly!wo e!speci ic!b ands!and!d ess!
s yles! ha !we e!'pa !o ! he!uni o m'.!Fi s !o !all,!he!used! o!wea !a!lo !o !2Hand.!
Especially!shi s,!wi h!sho !slee es!and!a!check!pa e n,!in! he!same!s yle!as!shi s!o !
he!'Ben!She man'!b and.!He!s ill!has!some!o ! hese!shi s,!which!a e!sligh ly!squa eQish!
in!shape,!wi h!checks!in! a ious!colou s.!Second,!'classics'!seems! o!co e !objec s!he!has!
ound! ha !ma ch! he!shape!o !his!body,!and! ha !he!can! he e o e! e u n! o!again!and!
again!when!he!buys!new!a icles!o !clo hing.!Wha !was!so!good!abou ! inding! hese!kinds!
o !shi s!in!2Hand!shops!was! ha !because!o ! he!sho !slee es,!he!didn' !ha e! o!be!
conce ned!abou !size.!Finding!d ess!objec s!in!2Hand!shops!is! e y! ime!consuming! o !
Jonas,!because!he!is! e y! all!and! hin,!and!he! inds! ha ! his!is!'pa icula ly!di icul !
because!people!we e! a he !sho !ea lie !on'.!Because!o ! his,!he!has!no !been!able! o!
con inue!shopping!2Hand!a e !he!had!child en!and!s a ed!wo king,!e en! hough!he!
would!like! o.!The e!is!simply! oo!li le! ime!a ailable.!Ano he !challenge!he!has!due! o!
his!body!shape!is! ha !he!does!no !like! he!d ess!objec s! o!be!' oo!s aigh '.!This!issue!
comes!up!se e al! imes:! o !example,!when!we!look!a ! he!pho o!o !his!Thu sday!
!
86!
ensemble.!He e!he!wea s!a!new!pai !o !Cla ks!boo s!in!lea he ,!black!jeans!wi h! lipQups,!
a!blue!bel ,!black!shi ,!a!blue!ca digan!wi h!suede!elbow!lapels,!and!a!mili a y!s yle!
jacke .!On! his!day,!he!had!a!mee ing!wi h!NGOs!in!London.!!
!
!
Jonas'!ensemble! o !Thu sday!
!
He! ells!me! ha !he!likes! his!jacke !because!o !i s!shape,!which!he!desc ibes!as!' lu y',!
and!'i !doesn' !jus ! all!like,! igh !o ,!like! ha .!A e !saying! his,!he!ges u es!wi h!his!
hands!in!an!upQandQdown!mo emen ,!and!whis les,! o!show!me!a!s aigh !and!na ow!
shape.!He!says!how!he!p e e s! his!kind!o !jacke ! o,! o !example,! ench!coa s!o !'English!
o e coa s'! ha !a e!' oo!s aigh '.!He! hen! epea s! he!whis le!and! he!ges u e,!and!says!
how!he! eels!'s aigh !enough!as!i !is'.!Ano he ! ea u e!o ! his!ensemble! ha !is! ela ed! o!
his!body!shape!is! he! lipQups!on!his! ouse s!legs.!He!makes! hese!because!o en,!he!
canno ! ind! ouse s!whe e! he!legs!a e!su icien ly!long,!and!because!o ! his,!he!has!
made!a! i ue!ou !o !necessi y.!He!now!s o es!a!wide! a ie y!o !socks!in! a ious!colou s,!
ha !he!colou !ma ches!wi h! he! emaining!ensemble,!because! he!socks!can!be!seen!
be ween! he! lippedQup! ouse s!and! he!boo s.!Based!on!p inciples!like! his,!he!has!
de eloped!ce ain!kinds!o !'classics'!in!his!wa d obe,!which!wo k! o !him!because! hey!
i !his!body!shape.!!
!
!
87!
The!mos !belo ed!d ess!objec !he!owns!is! he!blaze ! om! he!Monday!and!Wednesday!
ensembles,!and! his!is!because!o ! he! i .!I ! i s!his!body!pe ec ly,!and!he!belie es! ha !
his!is!due! o! he! ac ! ha !i !is!2Hand.!He!would!ne e !ha e! he!money! o!buy!a!b and!
new!blaze !in! he!same!quali y!as! his!one:! he!high!quali y!o ! he!ma e ial!and! he!
padding!make!i ! a !be e ! i ! han!any!o ! he!o he !blaze s!he!owns.!When!he!is!expec ed!
o!pe o m!‘ex a’!a ! he!job,!he!wea s! his!blaze !because:!!
!
I$ hink$i 's$pa ly$made$ou $o $wool,$i 's$like$s ong,$plus$ he e’s$ he$ ac $ ha $ he$padding$inside,$well,$
he e’s$jus $done$some hing$magical$abou $i .$When$I$wea $ his$blaze $ hen$you$always$ eel$well,$and$
i 's$like,$magic.$I 's$ he$shi ,$ igh ?$I $jus $ i s$me$well.$I $ i s$so$nicely,$i $ ollows$ he$body,$and$ his$
happen$no$ma e $whe he $i $is$opened$o $closed.$I 's$jus $my$ a ou i e$blaze .$$
$
!
Jonas'!Wednesday!ensemble,!whe e!he!wea s!his!'lucky!jacke ':!a!2Hand!blaze !pu chased!many!yea s!ago.!!
!
As!we! alk!ou !way! h ough!his!en i e!wa d obe,! he!concep !o !'classics'! u ns!ou ! o!be!
igh ly!connec ed!wi h!some hing! ha ! i s!well.!Jonas!owns!se e al! ailo Qmade,!o !
madeQ oQmeasu e,!objec s.!The!oldes !ones!a e! wo!sui s!and! wo!shi s!made!by!a! ailo !
in!Shanghai,! ha !he!had!made!on!a! ip!a! ew!yea s!ago.!Now!he! inds! he!cu ! o!be!ou !o !
ashion.!Bu ! hese!ha e!been!some!o !his! a ou i e!objec s!in!his!wa d obe! o !a!long!
pe iod!o ! ime.!Now,!he!is!conside ing!ha ing! hem! edone!by!a! ailo ,!so!as! o!be!able! o!
wea ! hem!again.!Recen ly,!he!pu chased,!in!London,! wo!simila !madeQ oQmeasu e!sui s!
o ! he!'Andy!She man'!b and,!and!a!Ha ing on!jacke ! ha !can!be! eQo de ed!in!ano he !
ab ic!o !his!own!pick.!Wha !he!likes!abou ! hese!objec s!is! he! ac ! ha !once!he!has!
!
94!
sa o ial!sys em!among!o he s.!They!seemed! o!build! hei !ideas!o !s yle!on!highly!
pe sonal!issues!such!as!body!shape!and!aes he ic!p e e ences!abou ! ab ic!quali ies!and!
colou s,!as!well!as!on!la ge !cul u al!sc ip s!which,!in!much! he!way! ha !was!desc ibed!
by!Tha p,!a e!p esen !as!immanen !laye s!o !'muscle!memo y',!as!well!as! he!memo y!o !
'codes'! ela ed! o!pa icula !objec s!o !combina ions.!!
!
(
Field(wo k( e lec ions(
(
!
As!seen!in!a!diach onic!pe spec i e,!wha !I!ha e!expe ienced!in!bo h!To ben’s!and!Jonas'!
wa d obes!is! ha ! hey!bo h!a e! e y!connec ed! o! hei !pas !wa d obes.!They!ha e!bo h!
been! es ing!ou !and! ying! a ious!iden i ies! h oughou ! hei !adolescen !yea s,!and!
e en ually!came!up!wi h!d ess!s yles!in!which! hey!' el ! igh '.!Th oughou ! hei !adul !
li es,! hese!s yles!ha e!been!adjus ed!and!de eloped,!bu ! he e!a e!s ill!shapes,! ex u es,!
and!colou !p e e ences! ha ! hey!ca y!wi h! hem:! o !example,! ha !way! ha !Jonas!
p e e s!a! ounded!shape!in!his! oo wea ,! he!ma !and!so !exp ession!o !suede,!and!
ce ain! ypes!o !kni !Q!and! he!ma ,!ligh weigh !ma e ials!o ,! o !ins ance,! he!Ha ing on!
jacke .!In!To ben's!case,!he!con inues! o!pu sue!ce ain! ypes!o !colou s!and!ce ain!
silhoue es! ha ! e e !back! o! he!pos Qpunk!s yle! ha !he!wo e!when!he!was!young,!and!
mo eo e ,!he!likes! he! ab ics! o!be! a he ! hick!and!s i .!Below,!I!ha e! ied! o!plug! he!
a ious!examples!o !s yles!and!d ess!objec s!in o!my!model!o !'senso y!ancho ing':!!
SENSORY$ANCHORING,$TORBEN$
$
Ea ly!
Adolescence:!
!
!
• CollegeQ/Yuppie!
s yle!
• Fake!Lacos e!
• polo!shi s!
La e!
Adolescence:!
Pos !punk/
boheme/
a is !s yle:!
Long!2Hand!
o e coa s,!
skinny!jeans,!
poin y!shoes,!
only!black!
colou s,!long!
and!slende !
silhoue e!
1.!job/wi e:!
• D essy,!
o mal!
ouse s!
• Shi s!in!
monoch o
me!
colou s!
• Ou e wea !
• Tigh Q
€i ing!TQ
shi s!and!
jacke s!
F eelance/
pa en ing:!
!
• F om!
igh ! o!
'squa e'!
silhoue e!
Fu u e!
wa d obe:!
!
• Can!s a !
o!wea !
old,! igh Q
€i ing!
objec s!
again!
!
!

!
95!
SENSORY$ANCHORING,$JONAS$
$
$
!
!!
In!o de ! o!unde s and! hese!mechanisms!in!a!synch onic!pe spec i e!as!well,!I!ha e!
been! e y!in e es ed!in! he!way! he! wo!men! hink!o ! hei !wa d obes!as!‘conse a i e’!
o !‘classic’,!and!all! oge he !abou ! he!way! hey!speak!abou ! he!kinds!o !s yles! hey!
wea .!As!we!looked!a ! he!d ess!objec s! hey!had!and!discussed!wha ! hey!liked,!i !was!
qui e!clea ! ha ! hei !p e e ences!we e!highly!indi idual!and!pe sonal! e sions!o ,! o !
example,! he!'classic'!Mod!s yle.!This!was!mani es !in! he!way! ha !Jonas!made!use!o !his!
2Hand!sui !jacke !o !his!'so !business'!shi s! o !mo e! o mal!mee ings,!and!in! he!way!
ha !To ben!had!ce ain!shi s! o !public!e en s!o ! eaching,!and!o he s! o !wo king!a !
home.!Fi s ,!i !is!clea ! o!me! ha ! hey!a e!na iga ing! h ough! he!p inciples!o ! a ious!
sa o ial!sys ems! a he ! han!on! he!p inciples!o ! ashion!only.!Secondly,!i !is!clea ! ha !
hey!bo h!make!indi idual! e sions!o !a!gi en!combina ion!o !d ess!s yles,!o ,!as!Swidle !
sees!i ,! eQenac !and!app op ia e! a ious!cul u al!' epe oi es'!in!indi idual!ways!
h ough!b icolage.!As!I!see!i ,!bo h!men!a e!engaged!wi h!sha ed!cul u al!ideas!abou !
being!young,!o !being!adul ,! ha !de i e! om! he!sa o ial!sys em!o !popQ!and!coun e Q
cul u e,!and!o !menswea / ailo ing.!Based!on! hese!a ailable! epe oi es!in! hei !
espec i e!se ings,! hey!each!nego ia e!a!pe sonal! e sion! ha !con igu es! hei !d ess!
s yles,!which! hey!ha e!de eloped!and!adjus ed!o e ! ime!(see!model!on!nex !page).!!
!
$
$
$
Ea ly!
Adolescence:!
!
G unge:!big!
kni wea ,!
lumbe jack!
shi s,! o n!
jeans!
La e!
Adolescence
:!
B i pop/
Mod!s yle:!
2Hand!
shi s,!
s e ch!
jeans,!dese !
boo s,! ock!
me chandis
e!TQshi s!
Long!and!
slim!
silhoue e!
1.!job/wi e
+!child en:!
Mo e!
ashionQ
conscious!
Tailo Q
made!
shi s! om!
Thailand!
B igh Q
colou ed!
kni wea !
Bu onQ
down!
designe !
shi s!
2.!job:!
Re ision!o !
Mod!s yle!
and!
'classics'!
MadeQ oQ
measu e!
sui s!
MadeQ oQ
measu e!
Ha ing on!
jacke !
TQshi s!
wi h!
simple,!
g aphic!
p in s!
!
!
Fu u e!
wa d ob
e:!
!
Mo e!
o ganic/
sus ainab
le!d ess!
objec s!
A!deepe !
explo a i
on!o !his!
own!
e sion!
o ! he!
Mod!s yle!
!
!
!
96!
SARTORIAL$SYSTEMS$MODEL,$TORBEN$AND$JONAS$
!
!
$
Fashion! ! codes:!Jonas'! as e! o !shopping!and!his!a en ion! o!b ands;! he! ac ! ha !To ben!!
!!doesn' !use!his!d essy,! o mal! ouse s!anymo e,!bu !now!wea s!black!jeans!
!!skills,(p ac ices:!How! hei !silhoue e!doesn' !s ick!ou !comple ely! om! he!!!
!! end.!!!
!!(
!
PopQ!and!! codes:(Jonas'!Mod!s yle! e e ences!such!as! he!bu onQdown!shi ,! lipQups,!dese !!
coun e cul u e!boo s,! he!Ha ing on!jacke .!To ben's! e e ences! o!punk,!such!as! he!colou !black.!
!!skill,(p ac ices:!Thei !way!o !pe cei ing! hese!s yles!as!some hing!au hen ic!o !!
!!'close! o! he!hea ',!and!as!indica o s!o !sha ed! as e!g oup!p e e ences! ha !!
!!de i e! om!musical!gen es.!!
!!!
!
Menswea /!codes:!Thei !shi s,!blaze s,!and!Jonas'!sui s.!!
ailo ing!! skills,(p ac ices:!The!way! hey!bo h!like!d ess!objec s! ha !a e!'made! o ! hem'!and!ha e!a!
!!good!‘ i ’.!The!way! hey!would!like! o!buy! he!same!o e !and!o e !!again,!i ! hey!could.!!
!(
!
Spo swea !codes:!To ben's!ou e wea ,!such!as!his! ain!coa .!Jonas'!so !hoodies!and!home!wea .!!
!!skills(and(p ac ices:(To ben's!concep !o !'p ac ical'.!
!!!
!
!
Nex (s eps(
!
!
Wha !I!could!conclude!on! he!basis!o ! his!way!o !unde s anding! he!si ua ion!is! ha !
he e!seems! o!be!a!disc epancy!be ween! he!logics!and!unde s andings!o !' ashion'!as!a!
cul u al! epe oi e,!and! he!way!in!which!my!in o man s!ac ually!in e ac ed!wi h! hei !
wa d obes.!In! he!ligh !o !my!sa o ial!sys ems!model,!I!saw!be o e!me! wo!men! o !
• Spo swea !• Menswea /
ailo ing!
• PopQ!and!
coun e cul u e!
• Fashion!
T endQbased!
changes!
Au hen ici y/
ela ing! o!
lo e! o !music!
Func ionali y/
eedom!o !
mo emen !
'clo hes!
companions'/
sameness!
!
97!
whom!' ashion'!was!qui e!in e io ! o! hei !own!d ess!p ac ices.!Ac ually,!bo h!men!we e!
ma kedly!disin e es ed!in! ashion,!al hough! hey!we e!bo h! e y!conscious!abou ! hei !
d ess!s yle.!Wha !seemed! o!ma e !much!mo e! o! hem!was! he!'senso y!ancho ing':!
sensa ions,!aes he ics,!and!memo ies!connec ed!wi h!ideas!o !sel ! ha !had!been!
de eloped!o e !a! ime!pe iod!ex ending!mo e! han! wen y!yea s.!As!such,! hese!men!
seemed! o!be!much!mo e!in e es ed!in! i ues!and!skills! ela ing! o! he! epe oi e!o !
'menswea / ailo ing'!o !'popQ/subcul u e',!which!add ess!aspec s!such!as!con inui y!
and!au hen ici y.!Ra he ! han!being!in e es ed!in!wha !was!new,! hey!seemed! o!be!
much!mo e!occupied!wi h!' he!old'!–!in!wha ! hey!s o ed!al eady,!in!wha ! hey!ha e!
al eady! ound!wo ks!ou !well! o ! hem,!in!wha !kinds!o !shapes,!colou s,! ex u es,!e c.!
hey!had! ound!' el ! igh '! h oughou ! hei !adul hood.!!
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Inso a !as!I!wished! o!challenge! u he ! he!way!d ess!p ac ice!is!widely!connec ed!wi h!
he!cul u al! epe oi e!o !' ashion',!I!could! ind!no!be e !place! o!explo e! han! he!
ashion!indus y!i sel .!I!saw! his!as!a! ele an !mo e,! o !mo e! easons.!Fi s ly! he!
agencies!and!ga ekeepe s!in! he!indus y!a e!in ol ed!in! he!seasonal!collec ions! ha !
a e!being!p oduced,!dis ibu ed,!dissemina ed,!and!sold!as!some hing!new!and!
desi able.!In! his!way,! hey! ep oduce!inhe en !skills,!codes!and!p ac ices! o ! ashion,!
and!help!sus ain! he!sys em.!Wha !I!was!yea ning! o !was! o!es ablish!a! esea ch!
amewo k!based!on!my!wa d obe!sessions! ha !migh !ope a ionalise!my! heo e ical!
models! u he .!In! ela ion! o! his!aspi a ion,!I!became!abso bed!wi h!ques ions!abou !
he!soQcalled!'a e !li e'!o !d ess!objec s:!wha !happens! o! hem!once! hey!ha e!been!sold,!
and!once! hey!commence! hei !li e!cycle!as!pa !o !peoples!wa d obes.!I! hen!de eloped!
he!idea! ha !by! ollowing!d ess!objec s! om!b and! o!wa d obe,!I!migh !be!able! o!shed!
some!ligh !on!how! hese!objec s!become!insc ibed!wi h!new!meanings! h ough! he!
p ocess!o !use.!This!co ela ed!well!wi h!my!in e es !in!people's!'clo hing!compe ences',!
as!desc ibed!by!Hansen:! he!way!d ess!objec s! om! he!Wes !a e! ans o med! h ough!
use!so! ha ! hey!ma ch!ideas!o !app op ia eness!in!Zambia.!In!much! he!same!way,!d ess!
objec s! om!a!gi en!b and!a e! ans o med!when! hey!en e !people's!wa d obes,!so! ha !
hey!ma ch!people's!ideas!o !sel .!I !is! his! ansi ion!p ocess! ha !s ands!as! he!objec i e!
o ! he! ollowing!chap e .!As!such,!bo h! heo e ical!models! o !enqui y!a e!a !play:!Fi s ,!
how!indi idual!d ess!objec s!will!unde go!a! ansi ion!p ocess! om!being!' ashion'!
objec s! o!e en ually!being!pa !o !peoples!wa d obes.!And!second,!how! hese!objec s,!
p omo ed!by!a!gi en!b and!as!'new',!a e! hen!app op ia ed!in o!'old'! as e!pa e ns! ha !
a e!de eloped!by!indi idual!pe sons.!
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PART$2!
THE$NØRGAARD$PROJECT$
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102!
In oduc ion$
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The e!we e!many!b ands! ha !I!could!ha e!chosen! o!collabo a e!wi h.!Fi s !o !all,!I!
needed! o!decide!wha !sec o !in! he! ashion!indus y!I!wan ed! o!add ess:!i !could!be!a!
majo !high!s ee !b and,!o !a!mediumQsize!o !smalle !designQled!b and.!Each!sec o !has!
i s!own!p ac ices!in! ela ion! o! ashion,!and!I!was!looking! o !some hing! ha !could!
ma ch!my!idea!o !' a ou i es'.!I! he e o e! ealised! ha ! he!high!s ee !sec o !migh !no !
be!app op ia e! o ! his!p ojec .!Wo king!wi h! his!sec o ,!I!would!soon!be!able! o!
conclude! ha !2Qweek!p oduc ion!cycles!do!no !ma ch! he!cycles!o ! he!wa d obe,!and!
his!would!su ely!lead!me!in o!discussions!abou !sus ainabili y,!o !as!Black!desc ibes!i :!
Fashion's!'pa adox';!discussions!cen ed!on!how! he! apid!speed!o !such!p oduc ion!
cycles!a e!ou !o ! ac !wi h!people's!d ess!p ac ice,!how! he e!a e!immense!p oblems!in!
ela ion! o!such!o e p oduc ion!and!o e consump ion,!and!how!p ac ices!in! he!high!
s ee !sec o !need! o!be!al e ed!comple ely!in!o de ! o!es ablish!a!mo e!balanced!
ela ion!be ween!consump ion!and!p oduc ion.!(Black!in:!Black!(ed.)!2013:8).!Black!
men ions! his!wi h! ega d! o!ma e s!o !sus ainabili y.!This!could!ha e!been!an!ob ious!
issue! o!engage!wi h,!since!Klepp!ac ually! ela es!he !own!concep !o !' a ou i es'! o!
sus ainabili y!issues!(Klepp!in:!Sko !(ed.)!2010:170).!Howe e ,!I!chose! o!engage! ully!
wi h!such!discussions!elsewhe e.!Wha !I! ound!much!mo e!in e es ing!in! ela ion! o!my!
esea ch!objec i es!in! his!p ojec !was! o!wo k!wi h!mediumQsize!designQled!companies.!
In!such!companies,!pa icula !a en ion!is!paid! o!de eloping!signa u e! ea u es! ha !a e!
seen!as!cha ac e is ic.!In!o de ! o!secu e!a!posi ion!in! he!ma ke ,!such!b ands!need! o!
dis inguish! hemsel es! om!o he s! h ough!pa icula !app oaches! o!colou !pale e,!
kinds!o ! ab ics,!o !shapes!and! immings!in! hei !design,!so!as! o!be! ecognisable.!
Fu he mo e,! hey!need! o! e lec ! hese!cha ac e is ic! ea u es!in! he!way! hey!p omo e,!
dis ibu e,!and!sell! hei !design.!I !is!in! his!way! ha !I!see!such!b ands!as!engaging!wi h!
he!concep !o !' a ou i es':!how! hey!ha e! o!de elop!signi ican !design! ea u es,!which!
a e! epea ed,!wi h! a ia ions!and!adjus men s,!o e !and!o e !again.!Jus !like! a ou i es!
in! he!wa d obe,!such! ea u es!de i e! om!a!poin !o !depa u e!whe e!decisions!ha e!
been!made!abou !p e e ences!and!dislikes,!and!abou !wha !' el ! igh '.!Mos !o en,! hese!
decisions!a e!based!on! he!hunches!and!capaci ies!o !a!single!designe .!In! his!sense,! he!
' a ou i es'!o !such!b ands! e lec ! he!pe sonal!' a ou i es'!o !a!gi en!designe .!
Acco dingly,!I! ound!i !as!much!mo e! ele an ! o!wo k!wi h!such!company,!mobilising!
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my!in e es !in! ansi ion!p ocesses!and!in! he!displacemen !o ! alues! om! he!
p oduc ion!o !' ashion'! o!consume s.!The e!would!simply!be!a!close !co ela ion!
be ween!b and!p ac ices!and!use !p ac ices,!which!I! ound!would!be! e y!in e es ing! o!
explo e.!!
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In!my!ques ! o! ind!a!b and! ha !was!as!closely!compa able!wi h!my!sample!as!possible,!I!
was!on! he!lookou ! o !one! ha !would! e lec ! he!'sa o ial!sys ems'!I!had!spo ed!in! he!
wa d obes!o !my!in o man s.!This!mean ! ha !i !had! o!be!a!b and! ha !was!engaged!wi h!
cha ac e is ic! ea u es!de i ing! om!all! ou !sys ems.!The e!migh !ha e!been!a!couple!I!
could! hink!o .!The e!a e!mo e!Danish!menswea !designe !b ands! ha !a e! enown! o !
combining!mo e!sa o ial!sys ems,!such!as!WoodWood,!which!specialises!in! he!mix!o !
hipQhop,!ou e wea !and! ashion,!and!Soulland,!which!can!be!cha ac e ised!by! hei !mix!
o !hipQhop!and!classical!menswea ! ea u es.!Howe e ,!I!was!looking! o! ind!a!b and! ha !
e lec ed! he!dilemma!be ween!a!'young'!d ess!s yle,!and!a!'adul '!one! ha !ma ched!my!
sample!and! he!b ands!men ioned!abo e!we e,!in!my!mind,!a!bi ! oo!p eoccupied!wi h!
he!'young'.!On! he!o he !hand,! he e!a e!o he !Danish!designe !b ands! ha !a e!mo e!
'adul ',!bu !s ill!engage!wi h! ashion,!such!as!B uuns!Bazaa ,!Day!Bi ge !e !Mikkelsen,!o !
Sand.!Howe e ,!I! ound! ha !such!b ands!would!be!no !engaging!su icien ly!wi h!
spo wea !and!popQ/coun e cul u e,!so! hey!would!no !ma ch!my!p ojec .!!
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P omp ed!by! hese! e lec ions,!I!conduc ed!a!small!se ies!o !wa d obe!sessions!in! he!
homes!o ! h ee!in o man s,!in!collabo a ion!wi h!Danish! ashion!designe !Mads!
Nø gaa d.!This! ook!place!in! he!pe iod! om!au umn!2011!un il!sp ing!2012.!F om! he!
ou se ,! he!p ojec !was! e y!open,!and!was!based!simply!on! he!idea! ha !I!wan ed! o!
know!wha !happens!wi h!d ess!objec s!a e !people!buy! hem.!As! a !as!I!know!o ,! his!
issue!has!no !been! he!objec !o !much!in e es !in! he! ashion!indus y!in!gene al,!and!I!
knew! o !a! ac ! ha !Mads!Nø gaa d!had! e y!li le!knowledge!o ! he!soQcalled!'a e !li e'!
o !his!designs.!As! he!p ojec !e ol ed!and!as!I!s a ed! ansc ibing,!coding!and!analysing!
he!ma e ial,!I! ound!mo e!and!mo e!how! he!di e ence!be ween!p oduc ion!and!
consump ion!p ac ices!could!be!unde s ood! h ough!aspec s!o ! empo ali y.!As!such,!I!
ha e!ske ched!ou !in! he!in oduc o y!chap e !how! he!wa d obe!me hod!can!be!seen!as!
pa !o ! his!discussion.!My! ieldwo k! ep esen s!a!mapping!ou !o ! he! espec i e!
in o man s!and! hei !wa d obes,!and!a!' ollowQ heQobjec '!s udy!whe e!each!in o man !is!
p o ided!wi h!d ess!objec s! om!Mads!Nø gaa dQCopenhagen.!Finally!in! he!conclusi e!
chap e ,!I!pu ! o h!my! e lec ions!on!how!such!a!s udy!migh !illumina e!new!
pe spec i es!on! he!Nø gaa d!b and!in!pa icula ,!and!on! he! ashion!indus y!in!gene al.!!
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Tempo al$aspec s$o $d ess$p ac ice$
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"In( he(mode n(ci y( he(new(and(di e en (sounds( he(dissonance(o ( eac ion( o(wha (wen (
be o e;( ha (momen (o (dissonance(is(key( o( wen ie h(cen u y(s yle.(The(colliding(
dynamism,( he( hi s ( o (change(and( he(heigh ened(sensa ion( ha (cha ac e ize( he(ci y(
socie ies,(pa icula ly(o (mode n(indus ial(capi alism,(go( o(make(up( his('mode ni y',(and(
he(hys e ia(and(exagge a ion(o ( ashion(well(exp ess(i "(
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(Elizabe h!Wilson!(2003![1986]:10)!
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I!unde s and!' ashion'!as!a!highly!dominan ,!cul u al! epe oi e,!which!is!closely!
connec ed!wi h!Wes e n!mode ni y.!Al eady!in!ea ly!indus ialism,! oman icis !w i e s!
would!exp ess!how! he!aes he ic!pe son!would!indulge!in!sho Q e m!pleasu es!in!o de !
o!cope!wi h! he!'spleen'!o ! he!wo ld:! he!pain,! he!melancholy,!o !as! he!Ge mans!called!
i :!Wel schme z.!As!Wilson!desc ibes!i !in! he!quo e!abo e,! he! luid,!changing!and!onQ
going!na u e!o ! ashion!ha e!gone! e y!well,!hand!in!hand,!wi h! hese!ideals,! ha !mi o !
he! o wa dQmo ing,!linea !g ow h!pa adigm!o !indus ialism!Q!and!as!such,!wi h!o e all!
ideas!o !change!and!p og ess!in!Wes e n!socie y.!Wilson!has!also!been! he!one! o!
highligh !how! ashion!has!'ado ned!us!in!d eams'! h ough!i s!image y,!and! h ough!i s!
capaci y! o!seduce.!This!co ela es!well!wi h!Sho e!e !al.'s!idea! ha !use!p ac ices!a e!
d i en! o wa d!by!'images!o !ha ing'!and!'images!o !doing'.!As!such,! his!p ojec !e ol es!
a ound! he!idea! ha ! he!'d eam'!o e ed!by! he! ashion!indus y!is! ans o med!in o!
people's!'d eam'!o ! u u e!p ac ices!and!possessions,!in! he!shape!o !d ess!objec s! ha !
a e!gi en!new!meaning!in! he!use!phase.!Because!I!am!in ensely!abso bed!in! he!
p ocessual!aspec !o ! his! ans o ma ion,!I!ha e!been!looking!a ! he!issue!o ! empo ali y!
in! ela ion! o!design!objec s!and!use!p ac ice.!!!
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The!sa o ial!sys em!o ! ashion!has!had!a!pa icula !connec ion!wi h! he!issue!o !
empo ali y.!Especially!du ing! he!consume !boom!o ! he!pos !wo ld!wa !gene a ion,!as!
indica ed!by!Coope !(2005),!who!has!s a ed! ha !be o e! he!1950s,! ashion!companies!
we e!compe ing!on!du abili y!and!quali y,!while!a e ! his!pe iod,! hey!compe ed!on!
olume!and!p ice.!In! ela ion! o! his,!pape !d esses!o ! he!1960s!s and!as!epi omizing! he!
de elopmen ! owa ds! as e !consump ion,!which!culmina ed!in! he!de elopmen !o !soQ
called!' as ! ashion',!wi h!a! woQweek!p oduc ion!cycle,!as!was!in oduced!by! he!Spanish!

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111!
ashion!company,!Za a,!in! he!la e!20 h!Cen u y!(Cla k!2008).!The!sho Qli ed! enzy!o !
he!pape !d esses!o ! he!1960s! o eshadows,!in!many!ways,! he!de elopmen !o !' as !
ashion':!du ing! he!'you hquake'!o !Swinging!London!in! he!1960's,!pape !d esses!
epi omized! he!zeni h!o !all! ha !was!young,!mode n!and!libe al.!In! ac ,! he!young!
gene a ion!o ! he!1960s!consume !boom! ound! he!sho Qli ed!pape !d esses! o!be!
mode n!because! hey!we e! h own!away!a e !a! ew! imes!o !use!(Palme !in:!Sidianakis!
2007;!Pa on,!in:!S eele!(ed.)!2004).!The!new!woman!o ! he!1960s!claimed! he! igh s!o e !
he !own!body,!he !own!mind!and!he !own! ime,!and!had!no!in en ions!o !ending!up!as!a!
housewi e.!In! his! ansi ion,! he!pape !d ess,!wi h!i s!g aphic!opQa !p in s,!exp essed!
e e y hing! ha !was!new,! as ,! un,!and!mode n.!I !was!'disposable! un',!jus !like!many!
o he !design!objec s,!a !a! ime!when! he!' h owaway!socie y'!was!seeing!i s!heyday.!!
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I !is!be ween! hese!logics!o ! as ness!and!speed,!which!we e!de eloped!in! he!Wes e n!
wo ld! h oughou ! he!20 h!Cen u y,!and! he!slow,!e ol ing!cycles! aking!place!in! he!
wa d obes!o !my!in o man s,! ha !I!see!a!huge!disc epancy!be ween! he!p oduc ion!and!
consump ion!o !d ess!objec s.!Wha !I!will!add ess!he e!is!how!my!model!o !'sa o ial!
sys ems'!can!help!explo e!how! he! wo!logics!can!be!linked! h ough!use!p ac ices,!and! o!
add ess! he!concep !o !' a ou i es'.!In!o de ! o! u he ! ame! his!concep ,!I!will!add ess!
heo ies!a ound!use!p ac ice!and! empo ali y.!Wi hin! hese! heo ies,!a!key!idea!is! ha !
he!mo e!people! easu e!design!objec s,! he!mo e! hey!will! ake!ca e!o ! hem,! epai !
hem,!and!gene ally!do!wha ! hey!can! o!p olong! he!use!phase.!The eby,!wha !mos !o !
hese! heo ies!a e!add essing!a e!issues! ela ed! o!sus ainabili y,!o ! he!concep !o !'slow!
ashion'!as!i !has!been! e med!by!Fle che !(2008),!o ! o!' a ou i es',!as!he e!de ined!by!
Klepp:!!!
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"Fa ou i e(clo hes"( ep esen (an(en i onmen ally(sound(choice,(because( hey(a e(well(
ca ed( o (and( he e o e(las (longe ,(and( hey( educe( he(need( o (cons an (new(
acquisi ions"((((((((((((((((((
((((((((((((((((((((Ingun!G ims ad!Klepp!(2010:!170)(
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In! his!way,!a!'less!and!be e '!p inciple! o !consump ion!is!combined!wi h!ideas!o !a!
longQ e m!use!phase,!as!opposed! o! he!g ow h! alues!o ! he! h owaway!socie y.!
Howe e ,!I!will! y! o! iew! he! heo ies!I!am!engaged!wi h!he e!in! he!ligh !o !my!own!
esea ch!objec i es!and,!as!such,!will! y! o! emo e! hem! o !a!while! om!discussions!
abou !sus ainabili y,!and! o!use! hem!ins ead! o!cas !mo e!ligh !on!wha !I!expe ience!in!
he!wa d obes!o !my!in o man s.!In! his!way,! he e!migh !be!s ong!unde cu en s!o !
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sus ainable!ideas!in!my!wo k,!bu !I!belie e!i !is! e y!impo an ! o!keep! he! ocus!on! he!
issue!o !d ess!p ac ices,!inasmuch!as!my!cen al!poin !has! o!do!wi h!how! his!a ea!has!
been!unde Qexplo ed!and!unde Q heo ised.!!
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While! he! empo al!aspec !o !d ess!p ac ice!seems! o!ha e!been!gene ally!igno ed!wi hin!
li e a u e!on! ashion,!i !has!been!ex ensi ely!explo ed!wi hin!ma e ial!cul u e!s udies!
and,!especially!conspicuously,!wi hin! he! ield!o !design! esea ch.!Looking!mo e!closely!
a ! he!s udies,!i !becomes!clea ! ha !people's!daily!in e ac ion!wi h!design!objec s!is!
complex,! ich!and! ace ed,!in!a!way! ha !ex ends! a !beyond!d essing! o ! he!'now'.!F om!
a!ma e ial!cul u e!s udies!pe spec i e,!Daniel!Mille !(2009)!sugges s! ha ! he e!is!an!
in ima e!connec ion!be ween!people!and!objec s! ha !has! o!do!wi h!communal! alues!
and!no ms! a he ! han!economic!s uc u es:! he e!is!a! ela ion!be ween!'being'!and!
'ha ing'!which!is!a !play!in!all!kinds!o !socie ies,!and!no !only!in!Wes e n!pos Q
indus ialis !ones.!Wha !is!in e es ing!abou !Mille 's!way!o !unde s anding! he!si ua ion!
is!how!'being'!is! ela ed! o! he!un olding!o ! ime!on! he!one!hand,!and! he!space!we!
inhabi !on! he!o he .!Mille !sugges s! ha ! he! ela ion!be ween!human!beings!and!objec s!
has!a!uni e sal!cha ac e ,!which!migh !be!p ac iced!somewha !di e en ly!in! a ious!
socie ies,!bu !is!basically! he!same.!I ! his!is!so,!Jonas!and!To ben's!in e ac ion!wi h! hei !
wa d obes!o e ! ime!is!no !pa icula ! o!ou !socie y,!bu !also!displays! he!way!in!which!
we,!as!humans,!gene ally!in e ac !wi h!objec s.!Wi hin!design! esea ch,! he e!ha e!been!
a ious!a emp s! o!explain!how! his!in e ac ion!migh !be!unde s ood.!James!Hun !
(2003)!sugges s! ha !design!objec s!' eeze'! ime!in! he!dialec ic!p ocess!be ween!
consume !p ac ices!(being)!and!space,!and! ha ! his!en ails! ha !gi en!socie al!no ms,!
alues!and!s uc u es!a e!passed!on! o!consume s! h ough!design.!Depa ing! om!a!coQ
design!pe spec i e,!Elizabe h!Sande s!pe cei es!consume !expe ience!wi h!design!
objec s!as!'a!momen a y! lash,! aking!place!in! ime,! igge ed!by!p e ious!expe iences!
and! u u e!d eams'!(Sande s!in:!Ma elmäki!2007:46).!These! wo! espec i e!
unde s andings!desc ibe!well!how!Jonas!and!To ben!make!use!o !d ess!objec s!as!
ancho ing!poin s! h oughou ! hei !li es;!hence,!a!d ess!objec !connec s! he!consume !
wi h!socie al!con ex ,!as!well!as!wi h!bodily!expe iences!and!wi h!pe sonal!ideas!o !sel .!
Wha !is!pa icula ly!in e es ing!he e!is! ha ! his!connec ion!e ol es(o e ( ime.!!
!
Wi hin! he!cu en !li e a u e!abou !sus ainabili y!and!design,! he e!is!a!ma ked!in e es !
in!how! he!li e!cycle!o !design!objec s!can!be!p olonged,!which!in ol es! ha !design!
objec s!a e!p oduced! o!las !longe !and! o!be!mendable,!and!no !only!exis ! o !a!sho !
ime!in!people's!homes!un il! hey!a e!disca ded.!A! ele an !ques ion!is,! hen,!how!people!
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connec !wi h! hings!so!much! ha ! hey!wan ! o!keep! hem!longe !in!use,!ins ead!o !
h owing! hem!away.!Because!o !my!own!app oach! o! his,!I! ind!Papanek's!dis inc ions!
use ul.!Papanek!(1995)!p oposes! ha ! he!cu en !unsus ainable!beha iou !among!
designe s!and!a chi ec s!is! he!di ec !consequence!o !how!'unde s anding!and!
app ecia ion!o !a!design!o !building!ha e!been!se iously!handicapped!by!concen a ing!
almos !en i ely!on!ou !sense!o !sigh ',!and!o !how! hey!miss!ou !on!'sens[ing]!a!dwelling'.!
In!Papanek's! iew,!'dwelling'!is!a! e m!symbolizing!how!c ea o s!can!apply!a!mo e!
esponsible!app oach! o!ou !en i onmen !when! hey!design,!ins ead!o !jus !' looding! he!
wo ld!wi h!consume !goods'!(ibid:185).!Papanek!ex ends! his!pe spec i e! o! he!use!
phase,!and!p oposes!how!'end!use s'!can!con ibu e! o!sus ainable!agendas!as!well,!
h ough!conside ing! ho oughly!how! hey!can!minimize!o e consump ion!in! hei !daily!
li es.!I !is!in! his!way! ha !Papanek!belie es!we!migh !e en ually!be!able! o!' eQes ablish!
ou !connec ions!wi h!na u e!and!wi h!ou !own! oo s'!(ibid:186),!and!cas !away! he!
'g eedQd i en'!and!'shameless!was e!cul u e'! ha !has!been!es ablished! h ough!a!
Wes e n,!indus ialis !pa adigm!o !g ow h.!!
!
Papanek,!in!many!ways,! ela es! o!ideas!o !emo ional!design! ha ,!as!has!been!poin ed!
ou !by!Sho e!e !al.,!o en!miss!ou !on! he! empo al!pe spec i e!o !use!p ac ice.!Howe e ,!
I!do! hink! ha !his!conce n! o ! he!concep !o !'dwelling'!is!pa icula ly!in e es ing,!
especially!because!he!add esses!a!link!be ween!p oduc ion!and!consump ion! ha !is!
mo e!balanced! han!i !is! oday.!A!simila !app oach!is! o!be! ound!in! he!case!o !Walke !
(1995),!bu !in!his! iew,! empo ali y!plays!a!mo e!cen al! ole.!Walke !is!also!looking! o !
he!missing!connec ion!be ween!p oduc ion!and!consump ion,!as!pa !o !a!sea ch! o !
new!and!mo e!balanced!p ac ices:!!
!
"E e (since( he(ea ly(yea s(o ( he(20 h(cen u y,(when(mass7p oduced(consume (goods(
s a ed( o(become(widely(a ailable,(p oduc s(ha e(been(p omo ed(as('new'(and('leading(
edge'(based(on( wo(majo ( ea u es(7(aes he ics(and( echnology.(The( i s (encompasses( he(
la es (in( ashions,(s yling(and(colou s(and(is( he(p ima y( ocus(o ( he(indus ial(designe .(
The(second(includes(such( hings(as( unc ional(a ibu es(and(gadge y(and(is(in o med(
mo e(by(aspec s(o (enginee ing.(Nei he (has(gi en(us(a(las ing(and(meaning ul(ma e ial(
cul u e.(Ra he ,( hey(ha e(con ibu ed( o( he(unsus ainable,(inhe en ly(damaging(
cha ac e is ics(o (ou (cu en (design(and(p oduc ion(app oaches"! ! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!(Walke !ibid:11)!
!
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Ins ead!o !pe pe ua ing! he!abo e!desc ibed!p ac ices,!Walke !wishes! o! eQassess!'good'!
design.!His!de ini ion!o !good!design!is!mul iQ ace ed,!bu !wha !I!no ice!in!pa icula !is!
ha !he!desc ibes!i s!abili y! o!e oke!pe sonal!emo ions!in! he!shape!o !memo ies,!o !
o he ! eelings!o !connec ion!wi h!ideas!o !sel ,!and!wi h!physical!and!aes he ic!
expe iences! ha !a e!posi i e.!Walke !p oposes! h ee!pa ame e s! ha !cha ac e ise!wha !
he!calls!'endu ing!objec s'.!Fi s ,! he e!is! he!aspec !o ! unc ionali y:! o!be!du able,!an!
objec !has! o!be!conside ed!use ul,!sa e!and!e ec i e!by!i s!use .!Second,! he e!is!a!social!
aspec ,!whe eby!an!endu ing!objec !is!cha ac e ised!by!i s!aes he ic!and!posi ional!
quali ies.!Thi d,! he e!is!wha !he!calls!an!‘inspi a ional!and!spi i ual!aspec ’!abou !an!
endu ing!objec ,!which! e lec s! he!use 's!exp ession!o !belie s,!and!p o ides! he!use !
wi h! eligious,!magical,!and! alismanic!associa ions!(ibid:39).!As!an!illus a i e!example,!
Walke !desc ibes!how!a!p aye !ma !can!be!seen!as!'an!objec ! ha ! ies! he!physical!o !
ou e !pe son!wi h! he!inne ,!con empla i e!and!spi i ual!sel '!(ibid:44).!All! hese!aspec s!
a e!in!play!in!To ben!and!Jonas'!wa d obes,!when! hey!selec !wha ! o!wea !mos ,!and!
wha ! o!keep! o ! he!longes ! ime!in! hei !wa d obes.!In!pa icula ,! he!associa ions!seen!
in!Walke 's!p aye !ma !can!be! ound!in!Jonas'!'lucky!jacke ',!o !in!To ben's!g een!shi :!
bo h!objec s! ha !had!a!pa icula ly!high! alue! o! hem,!which! hey!had!nu u ed!and!
che ished! o !yea s,!and!which! ep esen ed!bo h!senso y!com o ,!posi ional!and!
aes he ic! alues,!and!associa ions!o !luck,!happiness,!posi i e!li e!e en s,!and!inne !
balance.!In! his!way,!i ! e lec s!wha !Wilson! e e s! o!as!d ess!objec s!o !a!' alisman'!
cha ac e ;!objec s! ha !a e!gi en!special,!almos !magical,!powe s!by! hei !use s,!a!
psychological!mechanism! ha !has!been!known!since!ancien ! imes!(Wilson!2003).!!
!
Wha !I!encoun e ed!in!To ben!and!Jonas'!wa d obes!was!some hing! ha !Klepp!also!
ound!in!he !s udy!o !women!in! hei !wa d obes:! ha !new!acquisi ions!mo e!
downwa ds!in! he!wa d obe!'hie a chy'!–! om! he! op!consis ing!o !d ess!objec s! o !
wo k!o !special!e en s,! o! he!bo om!consis ing!o !d ess!objec s! ha !come!close! o!be!
disca ded,!which!a e!used!as!homewea !o !spo swea .!Klepp!documen s! ha ! he!ac !o !
disca ding!d ess!objec s!is!o en!a!pain ul!p ocess,!which!is!why!he !in o man s’!
possessions!unde go! a ious!s ages! om! op! o!bo om!o ! he!wa d obe!hie a chy.!
O en,! hey!a e!kep !'ou !o !me cy'! o !a!longe !pe iod!a e ! hey!ha e!been!wo n! o ! he!
las ! ime,!be o e! hey!a e! h own!ou .!Klepp!also!documen s! ha ! he e!a e! h ee!main!
easons!why!women! h ow!ou !d ess!objec s:! i s ,!'si ua ional!obsolescence',!which!has!
o!do!wi h! ac o s!like!change!o !body!size,!and!changes!in!daily! ou ines/li e!changes,!o !
simply!has! o!do!wi h! he! ac ! ha !objec s!ha e!mo ed!downwa ds!in! he!wa d obe!
hie a chy!because!some hing!new!and!in e es ing!supe ened;!second,!' unc ional!
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obsolescence',!which!has! o!do!wi h!mo e! echnical!aspec s!such!as! he! ading!o ! he!
colou s,!s uc u al!weaknesses!in! he!p oduc ! om! he!ou se ,!o !simply! ha ! he!objec !
is!uncom o able! o!wea ;!and! hi d,!she!posi s!a!ca ego y! o !'psychological!
obsolescence',!which!has! o!do!wi h!how!d ess!objec s! ha !co esponded!well!ea lie !on!
wi h! he!sel Qimage!o !he !in o man s!e en ually!become!disQco esponding.!O ! hese,!i !
is! he! i s !and! he! hi d!ca ego ies! ha !I! ind!mos ! ele an ! o!my!own!s udy,!since! hey!
e ol e!a ound!senso y!aspec s!o !d essing!(i.e.!change!o !body!size),!and!people's!ideas!
on!age!and!ageing.!!
!
All!in!all,!I!belie e! ha !Klepp's!s udy!and!my!own!emb ace! he!con adic o y!aspec s!o !
ashion!as!'now',!and!people's!wish! o!connec !wi h! hei !own!pe sonal!his o y.!Wha !
shows! h ough!all! his!is!how!all!kinds!o !d ess!objec s,!and!no !only! ashionable!ones,!
a e! il e ed! h ough! a ious!pe sonal!c i e ia!by!e e y!single!pe son,!and! ha !i !is! hese!
c i e ia! ha !a e!decisi e! o !how!long!a!d ess!objec !las s!in! he!wa d obe.!This! ai h ully!
pinpoin s!Fle che 's!concep !o !'slow! ashion'.!The!concep !de i es! om! he!I alian!'slow!
ood'!mo emen ,!which!also!builds!on!a!lessQandQbe e !p inciple!(2008).!Wha !Fle che !
has!done!in!he !p ojec ,!local(wisdom,!is! o!exempli y!how!people!ex end! he!li e!cycle!o !
pa icula ly! easu ed!d ess!objec s! h ough! he!'c a !o !use':!combining,! eQdesigning!
and!mending! hem!so! ha ! hey!ma ch! a ious!li e!pe iods,! unc ional!demands,!and!
ideas!o !sel !(Fle che !2014).!
!
Jus !like!Fle che ,!I!see! he!'skills'!o !'compe ences'!o !d essing!as!a!highly!c ea i e!
p ocess,!whe ein!people!de ine!and!unde s and! hemsel es! h ough!wha ! hey!wea .!I!
will! he e o e!use!' he!Mads!Nø gaa d!p ojec '! o! ead!unde s andings!o !long!las ing!
design!objec s!up!agains ! he!backd op!o !sho Qli ed!'now'! ha !is!inhe en !in! he!logics!
o ! ashion,!in!o de ! o!be!able! o!commen !on! he! ela ion!be ween! he!p oduc ion!and!
consump ion!o ! he!b and's!design.!The e!is!a!disc epancy! ha !comes!in o! iew!when!
we!s op!and!conside ! ha !'we!c a e! he!illusions!o !s asis,!ye !we!buy! he!la es !in!
ashion',!as!Hun !so!well!desc ibes!i !(Hun !2003:60).!I !is!exac ly! his!disc epancy,!
a gues!Hun ,!which!has! aised!a!wide!in e es ! o !s udying!e e yday!p ac ices,!because!
his!is!whe e!consume s!app op ia e!and! ans o m!'b anded!li e'!in o! hei !own,!
pe sonal!li e.!Once!design!objec s!lea e! he!shop!and!en e ! he! ealm!o !people's!homes,!
hey!a e! eQe alua ed,!app op ia ed!and!p o ided!wi h!new!laye s!o !meaning,!which!
de i e! om!emo ional,!senso y!and!psychological!expe iences!o ! he!single!use .!Thus,!
my!con ibu ion!he e!is! o!b idge!p oduc ion!and!consump ion! h ough!a!' ollow! he!
objec '!app oach:! o!shed!some!ligh !on!wha !ac ually!happens!once!a!d ess!objec !lea es!

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he!shop!and!en e s! he!home!o ! he!consume .!In! his!way,!I!wish! o!hold!a!magni ying!
glass!and!see!wha !happens!as! he! alues!o !a! ashion!b and!a e! ans o med!and!
become!pa !o !people's!own!expe iences!o !sel ,! h ough! hei !in e ac ion!wi h!d ess!
objec s.!In! ela ion! o! his,!I!will!make!use!o ! he! heo e ic!models!o !'senso y!ancho ing'!
and!'sa o ial!sys ems'! o !pu poses!o !highligh ing! a ious!pe spec i es!o !wha !I!
encoun e .!!
!
I! ega d!all!o ! his!as!being!highly! ele an ! o! he!way!To ben!and!Jonas!make!use!o !
musical!gen es!and! ela ed!d ess!s yles!as! hei !ancho ing!poin s,!as! hey!de elop! hei !
idea!o !sel !o e ! ime.!Jø gen!Nø gaa d!was!among! he! i s !people!in! he!Danish! ashion!
indus y! o! ap!in o! he!sa o ial!sys em!o !popQ!and!coun e Qcul u e,!and!in! his!way,!his!
shop!and!design! ep esen ! he! i s !gene a ions! ha !g ew!up!iden i ying!wi h!ce ain!
sounds!and!images! om!you h!cul u e.!Wi h! his!his o y!in!mind,! he!b and!emb aces!
he!way!Jonas!is!awa e!o !changing! ashions!and!awa e!wha !is!‘new’,!a ! he!same! ime!
ha !he!is! e y!consis en ,!and!e en!‘conse a i e’,!in! he!choices!he!makes.!Wha !will!be!
in e es ing! o!see!is!how! he!new!se !o !in o man s!will!app o e!o ! hei !new!d ess!
objec s,!and!how! hese!objec s!will!mo e!in! he! espec i e!wa d obe!hie a chies.!And!
especially,!how! his!migh !cas ! e lec ions!back! o! he!indus y.!!
!
To!sum!i !up,!my! esea ch!ques ions! o ! his!pa !o ! he! hesis!a e! he! ollowing:!!
! !!
1.!How!is!Mads!Nø gaa d's!design!being!app op ia ed!in!my!in o man s’!wa d obes?!
2.!How!migh ! he!s udy!con ibu e!wi h!new!pe spec i es!on!indus y!p ac ices!in!
gene al,!and!on! he!Nø gaa d!b and!in!pa icula ?!
!
$
$
$
Me hod$
$
!
!
!
A!sample!o ! h ee!in o man s!was! ound! o ! he!p ojec ;!I! ound!Pelle!and!Michael!
h ough!my!pe sonal!ne wo k!on! acebook,!and!Jacob!con ac ed!me! ia!eQmail!a e !he!
hea d!me!speaking!on!a! adio!p og amme.!All! h ee!o ! hese!men!li ed!up! o!my!c i e ia!
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in! e ms!o ! hei ! espec i e!modes!o !employmen !and! hei ! espec i e!ages,!and! hey!all!
eside!in!Copenhagen,!so! ha !access! o! hem!was!easy.!!
!
Fi s !o !all,!I!wan ed! o!ge ! o!know! hei !wa d obes,!and!I!wan ed! o!ge !a!good!idea!
abou !how! hey!pick!ou !wha ! o!wea .!So,!du ing! he!mon h!o !No embe !2011,!I!
conduc ed!a!wa d obe!session!las ing!app oxima ely!2!hou s!in! he!home!o !each!
in o man .!Fo ! he! ime!being,!I!s uck!wi h! o! he!simple!model!I!had!e en ually!wound!
up!wi h,!whe e!I!combined!mobile!p obes!and!wa d obe!sessions,!wi h!ma kedly!less!
conce n!abou ! he!o e all!s uc u e!o ! he!in e iews!( ig.!1).!Fo !ins ance,!I!did!no !ask!
hem! o!wo k! hei !way! h ough! hei !wa d obes!in!any!pa icula !o de ,!al hough!I!
o en!asked! hem!when! hey!had!ac ually!pu chased!and!wo n!pa icula !d ess!objec s.!I!
s uck! o! he!idea!o ! aking!each!o ! he!ca ego ies!o !d ess!objec s!one!a !a! ime,!because!
his!was!also!an!easy!way!o !compa ing!objec s.!Bu !I!mo e!o !less! ee ed!o ! om! he!
concep !o !g ading,!as!I!did! om!o he !p inciples! om! he!RepG id!me hod,!because!I!
ound! hem! o!be! oo! igid! o!adap ! he! low!o !con e sa ion.!In!addi ion! o! he!making!
he!ca ego iza ions,!I!made!e e y!a emp ! o! ollow! he! hemes!my!in o man s!
men ioned,!since! his!seemed! o!wo k!su icien ly,!o !e en!be e ,! han!making! oo!many!
' ules'!o ! es ic ions.!!
!
!
!
Fig!1:!Me hod!design! o ! he!wa d obe!sessions!o !all! h ee!o ! he!in o man s,! ecycled! om! he!me hod!in!
pa !1.!!
!
Because!o ! he!a en ion! ocused!on! he!concep !o !' a ou i es'!in! his!p ojec ,!I!would!
o en!ask!abou !physical!and!men al!'ancho ing!poin s'!in! he!wa d obe.!So!when! hey!
we e!speaking!abou !d ess!objec s! hey!liked!in!pa icula ,!I!would!ask!how! hese!
objec s! el ! o!wea !on! hei !bodies,!when! hey!had!s a ed!wea ing! hem,!whe e! his!
pa icula !s yle!came! om,!and!also!how! hey!liked! o!combine! hem!wi h!o he !objec s.!
Wa d obe!
biog aphy!
Clus e ing!
"open!momen "!
!
118!
In! his!way,!i !became!easie ! o! alk!abou ! he!mo e!passi e!objec s!in! he!wa d obe,!
because! hey!could!be!compa ed!wi h! he!ac i e!and!mo e! easu ed!ones.!!
!
Because!o !my!'sa o ial!sys ems'! amewo k,!I!was!also! e y!in e es ed!in! hei !
app oach! o!d ess!s yles!and! o!o e all!u ili a ian!issues.!I!would!ask! hem!in!wha !
con ex ! hey!used! hei ! a ious!d ess!objec s,!and!whe he !o !no !i !was!success ully!
ul illing!i s!pu pose.!These!con ex s!could!in ol e!any hing! om!social!si ua ions,!
h ough!wo kQ!and!leisu eQ ime,! o!pa ying!and!da ing.!Because!I!had! ound! ha !To ben!
and!Jonas!could!a icula e!highly!pe sonal!de ini ions!and!desc ip ions!o ! hei !s yle,!I!
was! e y!open! o!pe sonal!de ini ions! om!my!new!se !o !in o man s!as!well.!I!wished,!
a !leas !po en ially,! o!cu !a!swa ch!loose! om!any!p eQde ined!s ylis ic! e e ences!in!
o de ! o!allow!a!space!whe e! hey!could!de ine! hei !own! e e ences.!I!ha e! he e o e!
based!my!mapping!o ! hei !wa d obes!on! he!basis!o ! hese!pe sonal!de ini ions,!a!
mapping! ha !I! ega d!as!being!highly!desc ip i e!o ! he!imp ession!I!had!du ing! he!
sessions.!!
!
Second,!I!wan ed!my!in o man s! o!be!p o ided!wi h!d ess!objec s! om!Mads!
Nø gaa d's!menswea !design,!and! o! ind!ou !wha !would!happen!once! hese!objec s!
became!pa !o ! hei !indi idual!wa d obes.!Mads!Nø gaa d! he e o e!o e ed! o!p o ide!
each!o ! he!in o man s!wi h! wo!d ess!objec s!o !his!own!choice,!selec ed! om!his!AW11!
menswea !collec ion.!!
!
On! he!19 h!o !Decembe !2011,!Michael,!Jacob!and!Pelle!me !in! he!show oom!a !Mads!
Nø gaa d's!place!o !business!a !Amage !Squa e!15,!on! he!g ound! loo .!P esen !a ! his!
mee ing!we e! he!Mads!Nø gaa d! i m's!head!o !PR,!and!in e mi en ly,!an!assis an !who!
had!placed! he!AW11!menswea !collec ion!on!hange s!and!in!ca dboa d!boxes,! om!
which! he! h ee!in o man s!could!choose.!The!s a !le !me! alk!wi h!my!in o man s!
wi hou !in e e ing! oo!much.!Because!I!had!con ac ed!Michael,!Jacob!and!Pelle! ia!eQ
mail!in!o de ! o!se !up! he!sessions,!I!a ached!a!link! o! he!collec ion,!w i ing! hem! ha !
hey!each!could!choose! wo!i ems.!Immedia ely!a e ! he! isi ,!I!wen !home!and!made!
no es!abou !wha !objec s!each!o ! he!men!had!chosen! o! ake!home,!how! hey! eac ed!in!
he!show oom,!and!how! he!s a !o !Mads!Nø gaa dQCopenhagen! esponded! o! he!men.!!
!
A e ! his,!I!asked! he!men! o!send!me!a!pho o!each!and!e e y! ime! hey!wo e!one!o !
hese!objec s.!Fo !a!pe iod!o !5!mon hs,!up!un il!May!2012,! hey!we e! o!send!me! hese!
pho os,!along!wi h!a!small!commen a y!abou ! he!con ex !and! he!pu pose!o ! hei !ou i .!
!
119!
Only!in!pa !did! his!come! o! unc ion!acco ding! o!my!in en ions:!Pelle!sen !me!only!one!
single!pho o!du ing! he!5!mon hs,!e en!i !he!wo e! he!objec s! e y!o en.!When!we!
ag eed! o!mee !in!his!home,!he!had! o go en!all!abou !ou !appoin men .!Howe e ,!I!did!
manage! o!ge !him! o! ake!some!pho os!o ! he!mos !used!ensembles!he!had!wo n!
oge he !wi h! he!Nø gaa d!designs,!and! hen!we!had!a!long!con e sa ion!on! he!phone!
on! he!basis!o ! ha .!Jacob!managed! o!send!me,!all!in!all,!13!pho os,!bu !he! old!me!he!
had!used!his! wo!s yles!much!mo e! han! ha !–!including!one!o ! hem!on!a!weekly!basis.!
Michael!sen !me!pho os!e e y! ime!he!wo e!ei he !o !his!s yles,!excep ! o ! he!pe iod!
when!he!was!on!his!holiday!in!Iceland.!Michael!sen !me,!all!in!all,!27!pho os.!In!spi e!o !
hese!i egula i ies,!I!was!s ill!able! o!unde s and!wha !had!happened!wi h! he!Nø gaa d!
s yles!a e ! hey!le ! he!show oom,!and! o!unde s and!much!abou !how!my! h ee!
in o man s!had!app op ia ed! hese!a icles!in! hei !wa d obes.!!
!
Righ !a e ! hese!sessions,!comp ising! his!phase!o ! he!s udy,!on!May!15,!2012,!I!had!a!
mee ing!wi h! he!sales!manage ,! he!head!o ! he!menswea !design! eam,!and!Mads!
Nø gaa d!himsel .!The! ocus!o ! his!mee ing!was! o! u he !in o m! hese! h ee!
indi iduals!abou !my!p ojec ,!and! o!discuss!wi h! hem!how! he!p ojec !could!e en ually!
be! ela ed! o! hei !wo k.!Fo ! he!mee ing,!I!had!b ough !my!compu e !along!and!I!
showed! he! h ee!people!clippings! om!my! oo age,!as!well!as!p in ou s!o ! he!p obes.!I!
used! his!mee ing!as!a!good!oppo uni y! o!discuss!my!ideas!and! e lec ions! hus! a ,!and!
o!ge !some!idea!abou !whe he !my!p ojec !would!make!sense! o! hem.!A e ! his,!I!wen !
home!and!s a ed! he!p ocess!o ! ansc ibing,!coding!and!analysing! he!whole!ma e ial.!
Finally,!Mads!Nø gaa d!and!I!ag eed! ha !I!would!be!sending!him! his!pa !o ! he! hesis.!
Fi s !o !all,!I!wan ed! o!make!su e! he e!we e!no!misunde s andings!o !poin s!o !
indisc e ion!being!communica ed!in!my!ma e ial.!Bu !mos !o !all,!i !ga e!me! he!
oppo uni y! o!ob ain!his! eedback!on!my!ideas!and!analysis,!and! o!implemen !his!
e lec ions!in! he!p ojec .!Acco dingly,! he!en i e!p ojec !has!been!s uc u ed!as!
displayed!in! he! igu e!below:!!
!
$
Wa d obe!
session!
app.!2!hou s!
Mobile!p obes!
wi h!d ess!
objec s! om!
Mads!Nø gaa d!
5!mon hs!
In e iews!
abou !p obes!
wi h!each!
in o man !
app.!1!hou !
Mee ing!wi h!
Mads!Nø gaa d!
and!s a !!
app.!2!hou s!
Concluding!
in e iew!wi h!
Mads!Nø gaa d!!
app.!2!hou s!
!
126!
my!uppe !body'.!On! he!pho o!below!a e!his!'lec u e !F ede iksen'!shoes:!b own,!in! ullQ
g ain!lea he !and!wi h! e e ences! o! he!1970s.!Abou ! hese!shoes,!he!says:!
$
He e$comes$lec u e $F ede iksen,$and$no $as$much$designe $F ede iksen.$$
$
$
!
Michael's!'lec u e '!shoes!
!
Al oge he ,!he!seems! o!wea !his!own,!pe sonal!s yle! o !mos !clien s.!The!main!
di e ence!be ween!mos !mee ings!and!wo king!a !home!is! ha !when!he!wo ks!a !home,!
he!wea s! e y!com o able!objec s!like!longQslee ed!TQshi s,!which!he! inds!a e!a!bi ! oo!
in o mal! o !clien s.!Apa ! om! hese!small!adjus men s,!he!mos ly!wea s! he!same!
kinds!o !clo hes!in!bo h!si ua ions.!!
(
(
Rock(music!
!
!
Michael!s ill! ehea ses! egula ly!wi h!his! ock!band,!and!now!and! hen! hey!play!li e!
conce s.!Fo ! his,!he!likes! o!look!'a!bi ! ock'n' oll'!o !'like!a!punk! ebel'.!He!has!d ess!
objec s! ha !he!uses!pa icula ly! o ! his!look,!which!include!his!g ey!can as!'Sg .!Peppe '!
jacke !and!a! igh !and!sho !black!lea he !jacke ,!a!pai !o !b igh ! ed!jeans,!and!a!pai !o !
can as! ouse s!wi h!blue!and!whi e!s ipes.!These!a e!objec s! ha !he!can!wea !on!s age,!
o !when!going!ou .!He!also!has!a!ligh !b own!longQslee ed!TQshi !made!ou !o !co on!
wi h!black! ake!lea he !appliqué!on! he!slee es,!which!he!uses!only! o !conce s.!I !is!
e y!wo n!and! oo!big,!which!is!why!his!naked!shoulde s!a e!displayed!when! he!
neckline! alls,!as!he!mo es!a ound!on!s age.!!
!

!
127!
$
Michael's!longQslee ed!TQshi ,!wo n!only! o !conce s!(le ),!and!his!heap!o !' ock'n' oll'! ouse s,!o !which!
he!s iped!blue!and!whi e!one,!and! he! ed!one!a e! he!mos ! easu ed.!!
$
E en!i ! his!pa !o !his!wa d obe!is!qui e!limi ed,!i !is!connec ed! o!Michael's!idea!abou !
au hen ici y.!This!comes!ou !as!we! alk!abou !his!only!hoodie,! ha !he!likes!bu !s ill!
makes!him! eel!'younge ! han!I!ac ually!am,!in!a!kind!o ! ake!way'.!When!I!ask!him!why,!
he! eplies:!
!
I$g ew$up$wi h$ he$idea$ ha $punk$was$cool,$and$ ha $hip hop$was$a$bi $pop ish,$ alse$and$ ake.$To$me,$
hip hop$doesn' $ha e$ he$same$au hen ici y$as$ ock$o $jazz$
$
!
Summa y:(a(new(body(7(a(new(colou !
!
!
Michael's!wa d obe!is!unde going!a!phase!o ! ansi ion.!The e!is!a!majo i y!o !d ess!
objec s! ha !he!belie es!he!ough ! o!disca d,!bu ! his!seems! o!be!di icul ! o !him! o!do.!
He!is!also!in!sea ch!o !some hing!new,!which!is!s a ing! o!show.!Th ough!his!gi l iend,!
he!is!becoming!awa e! ha !he!needs!d ess!objec s! ha ! i !his! all!body,!and!once!he!s a s!
o!wea ! hese!objec s,!i ’s!as!i !‘a!new!Michael!appea s!be o e!me.!Whe eas! he!'old'!
Michael!looked!a!li le!swee !and!goo y!in!his!b own,!almos !ca oonish!ou i s,!I!s a ! o!
see!a!Michael! ha !is!much!mo e!conscious!o !his!good!looks.!A ! he! ime!o ! he!
in e iew,!he!happens! o!be!expe imen ing!wi h! wo!silhoue es! o !his!uppe !body;!a!
slim,!bodyQenhancing!silhoue e,!which!he!c ea es!wi h!slimQline!shi s!and! igh Q i ing!
longQslee ed!TQshi s,!and!ca digans! ha !also!seem!kind!o !long;!and!ano he !silhoue e!
ha !he!calls!' loppy',!whe e!he!wea s!objec s! ha !a e! oo!big,!and! he eby!exposes!his!
shoulde s,!which!makes!him!look!e en! alle !and! hinne .!A ! he!in e iew,!he!wea s!a!
pai !o ! ecen ly!pu chased! ouse s! ha !di e ge! ema kably! om!his!b own!woollen!
ouse s,!bu !a e!qui e!simila ! o! he!long!and!slende !shape!o !his!' ock'n' oll'!pan s.!He!
is!also!unde going!a! ansi ion!phase!in! e ms!o !colou s.!In! ecen !yea s,!his!hai !has!
u ned!g ey,!and!he!has!s a ed! o!wea !a!lo !o !g ey.!Bu !he!is!no !sa is ied!wi h! his!
because!he! eels! ha ! hen!he!becomes! a ! oo!g ey,!al oge he .!A!new!idea!he!has!hi !
!
128!
upon!is! o!wea !b igh e !colou s!in!o de ! o!es ablish!con as s.!Cogna e!colou s! ha !a e!
epea ed!in! his!new!pale e!a e!blue,! u quoiseQblue,!g eenishQblue,!and!pe ol!colou .!
He!is!s a ing! o!wo k!ou ! ixed!ensembles! ha !he!can!wea ! o !his! a ious!clien s,!
leisu e! ime,!da ing!and! amily! ime,!ensembles! ha !can! eplace! he!old!ones.!As!we!go!
h ough! he!wa d obe,!he!o en!exp esses!how!he!would!like! o!own!mo e!objec s! ha !
he!calls!'oneQo s',!objec s! ha !ha e! hei !own!cha ac e .!He! eg e s! ha !such!objec s!a e!
o en! e y!expensi e.!On! he!o he !hand,!he!is!qui e!an!impulsi e!shoppe ,!and!s o es!
many!shopping!mis akes!because!he! ell! o ! he!ma ching!ensemble!in! he!window!
display.!Wha !is!consis en !is!how,!when!he!wan s! o!desc ibe!his! a ou i e!d ess!
objec s,!he!o en! e e s! o!his!wo k!as!an!indus ial!and!g aphic!designe .!He!will!o en!
men ion!how!he!likes! he!g aphic!elemen s!o !a!pa e n!o !a!p in ,!and!wha !appea s! o!
be! e y! ypical!o !his! epo s!is! ha !he! hinks!o !his!g ey!hai !and!his!new!ou i s!in!
colou !combina ions.!As!i !he!we e!himsel !an!a icle!o !g aphic!design.!!
!
$
Michael's!idea!o !'oneQo 's'!is!exp essed!in,! o !example,!his!sui ! om! he!b and!Moods!o !No way,!wi h!i s!
designe !de ails!in! he!linen,!a icula ed!in!his!new!g eyQandQblue!scale.!To! he! igh ,!his! a ou i e!D .!
Ma ens!boo s,!which! e e ! o!his!penchan ! o ! he!punk!s yle,! he!1970s,!and! he!DDRQmili a y!s yle.!!
(
!
In( he(show oom(a (Nø gaa d(
!
!
A e !being!in i ed! o! he!ini ial!session,!Michael!w o e!back! o!me! ha !he!could! u n!up!
bu ! ha !he!was! e y!app ehensi e.!This!is!wha !he!w o e:!!!
!
Thanks.$I$hope$you$don' $ ega ds$me$as$being$ eally$ung a e ul,$bu $i $migh $be$di icul $ o$ ind$ wo$
d ess$objec s$in$ his$collec ion$ ha $I$would$ac ually$like$ o$wea .$I$should$ha e$checked$ou $wha $
kind$o $design$Mads$Nø gaa d$makes$be o e$saying$yes$ o$being$a$pa $o $ his$ $so y.$Could$we$use$
Hen ik$Vibsko $ins ead?$
!
I! old!him! ha ,!un o una ely,!I!had!no!collabo a ion!going!on!wi h!Hen ik!Vibsko ,!bu !
ha !I!hoped!he!would!gi e!i !a! y.!When!he!a i ed,!he! ook!his! ime,!and!commen ed!
on! he!s yles! ha !he!examined! ha !we e!in! he!boxes!and!on! he!hange s.!He! epea edly!
ouched! he! ab ic,!and!looked!closely!a ! he!colou !combina ions.!!All!in!all,!he! ound!
!
129!
ou !objec s!in e es ing.!He!looked!a ! he!s yle,!'Kan !Iceland',!an!Icelandic!swea e !wi h!
a! u leneck.!He! ound! ha ! he!black!and!whi e!s ipes!on! he! ib!we e!'in e es ing',!bu !
hen!he!said! ha !i !became!'con o ming!and!bo ing'!on! he!body!and!slee es,!so!he!
didn' !wan ! o!pick! ha !one.!He!also! ied!on!a!'Klemens!Zip!Kon as !S yle'!sailo !
swea e ,!wi h!a!neon!o ange!zippe .!He!liked!i ! e y!much,!bu !said! ha !he!had!p omised!
himsel !no ! o!buy!any!g ey.!I !had! o!be!a!new!colou ,!some hing!he!didn' !ha e!a !home.!
E en ually,!he!chose!a!blue!ca digan!in! he!'Ca l!Lambswool'!s yle,!wi h!a!black!logo!on!
he!ches !and!black!elbow!pa ches,!and!a!b igh ! ed! u leneck!sailo !swea e .!As!he!was!
lea ing! he!s o e,!he!commen ed! ha !he!was!qui e!su p ised!abou !how!much!he!liked!
he! wo!objec s,!and! ha !he!was! e y!pleased.!!
$
Michael!looked!a ! his!Icelandic!swea e !and! his!sailo !swea e ,!bu !picked!ou ,!ins ead,!a! ed! u leneck!
sailo !swea e !and!a!blue!ca digan!wi h!black!elbow!pa ches.!!
!
!
Second(session(
!
!
E en! hough!Michael!has!been! e y!app ehensi e!abou !wea ing!Mads!Nø gaa dQ
Copenhagen,!he!had!wo n! he!a icles! ha !he!chose!a!good!many! imes.!He!had!also!
been! e y!good!a !documen ing! his! o !me,!which!mean ! ha !when!I!a i ed!a !his! la !
o ! he!second! ime,! he e!was!a!lo ! o!discuss.!I!s a ed!ou !by!placing!p in !ou s!o !all!
his!ensembles!wi h! he!Nø gaa d!objec s!on!his!dining! able,!and! hen!we!s a ed! alking.!
I! old!him! ha !I!had! ound!i !amusing! o!see! ha !he!had!been!so! eluc an !a ! i s ,!and!
hen!had!sen !me!a! e i able! sunami!o !pho os,!especially!o ! he! ed!swea e ,!and!he!
eplied:!!
!
I$ha e$ ied$no $ o$be$in luenced$by$ he$ ac $ ha $I$knew$you$wan ed$some$pho os,$bu $I$guess$I$wasn' $
en i ely$una ec ed$by$ his.$I$wouldn' $ ega d$i $as$app op ia e$i $I$hadn’ $wo n$i $[ he$ ed$swea e ]$a $
all.$Bu $I$ eally$liked$i $ o $a$while.$I$do$need$ o$wea $a$long slee ed$T shi $unde nea h,$ hough,$ o$
p e en $i $ om$sc a ching.$The$ca digan,$on$ he$o he $hand,$has$been$wo n$qui e$ equen ly$
$
$
!
130!
As!we!look!a ! he!p in ou s,!he!says! ha ,! i s !o !all,!he!has! o!own!up! o!being!a!'se ial!
monogamis '!when!i !comes! o!d essing.!As!he! old!me!du ing! he! i s !session,!he!
de elops! ixed!ensembles,!so! ha !he!is! ee!o !conce ns!when!he!ge s!d essed.!He! hen!
wea s! hese!ensembles! o !a!pe iod!o ! ime,!wi h! e y!li le! a ia ions.!Michael!had!
de eloped! ixed!ensembles! o ! he! wo!objec s! ha !he!belie ed!wo ked!ou !well.!Fo ! he!
blue!ca digan,!he!has!de eloped!a! ixed!ensemble!wi h!a!whi e,!longQslee ed!co on!TQ
shi !and!his! a ou i e!blue!can as! ouse s,!and! his!ensemble!was!used! o !mee ings!
wi h!clien s,!when! eaching,!and! o !home!o ice!days.!He!said! his!ensemble!wo ked!a!
bi !‘abo e!a e age’!when!he!wo e!i !wi h!a!sca !and!bel ,!such!as!when!he!used!i ! o !
eaching.!He! eels! ha !he!has!made!an!e o !he e,! ha !i !is!'a!bi !dandy,!bu !also! oo!
nice'.!Ano he ! ixed!ensemble!was!comp ised!o !a!pu ple,!longQslee ed!TQshi ,! he!blue!
ca digan,!and!a!new!pai !o ! ouse s!simila ! o!his! a ou i e!ones.!He!has!no !been! e y!
pleased!wi h! his.!As!we!discuss! hese!ensembles,!he!says:!!
!
This$a icula es$an$in en ion$abou $colou s:$ ha $now$i ’s$no $supposed$ o$be$so$supe g ey$in$my$
wa d obe.$Which$means$ ha $ his$[ he$pu ple,$long slee ed$T shi ]$is$ac ually$an$'I need some hing
o my ca digan'$kind$o $pu chase.$Bu $I$ ell$you,$i $will$no $be$combined$again$wi h$my$ca digan,$no $
a e $seeing$ his$pho o!$
!
So,! he!longQslee ed!pu ple!TQshi !is!ye !ano he !‘shopping!mis ake’,!which!was!
pu chased!because!i !migh !wo k!ou ! o !a! ixed!ensemble.!As!such,!i !has!some hing!in!
common!wi h!lo s!o ! he!o he !shopping!mis akes!in!his!wa d obe.!As!migh !be! isible!
on!his!pho os,!he! an!in o! ouble!using!shi s!unde nea h! he!ca digan,!because!o !his!
long!a ms.!He! olds!up! he!shi slee es,!and! hey!bulk!up!unde ! he! a he ! igh !slee es!
o ! he!ca digan.!This!doesn' !wo k!ou .!Finally,!he!has!been!expe imen ing!wi h!
ensembles!whe e!he!combined! he!ca digan!wi h!longQslee ed!TQshi s!and!his!
' ock'n' oll'! ouse s.!This!was! o !home!o ice!days.!He! ied!ou ! he! ed!ones!and! he!
s iped!ones,!bu ! hey!didn' ! eally!wo k!ou ,!ei he .!
!
!
!
131!
!
Michael's!expe imen s!wi h!ensembles! o ! he!blue!ca digan:!his!pu ple!longQslee ed!TQshi ,!and!his!checkQ
pa e n!shi .!Bo h!ensembles!include!his! a ou i e!blue!can as! ouse s.!(
!
The! ed!sailo !swea e !was!a!bi !mo e!popula .!He!says! ha :!
!
I$had$a$g ey$pe iod,$and$I$didn' $ ind$ ha $i $wo ked$well$wi h$my$g ey$hai s$ $ hey$need$ o$be$
ligh ened$up$wi h$some$colou ,$and$I$ hink$ ha $wo ks.$A$bi $o $'pang'.$
$
!
He!has!used! he!swea e ! o !all!kinds!o !con ex s:! o ! eaching,! o !clien !mee ings,! o !
picking!up!his!daugh e !in!kinde ga en,! o ! a elling,!and! o !social!e en s!wi h! amily,!
iends!and!colleagues.!Because! he!swea e !is!qui e!wa m,!some!o !his!ensembles!a e!
o !ou doo !use,!and!he!has!expe imen ed!wi h! a ious!o e coa s.!The!ou doo !
ensemble!he!p e e s!is! he!one!wi h!his!b own!lea he !jacke .!Bu !s ill,!he! eels! ha !while!
he!jacke !'is! oo!much!in! one!wi h! he! ouse s',! he!swea e !jus !' uns!o '.!To!a!g ea !
ex en ! hey!a e!‘each!in! hei !own!co ne '.!This!ge s!e en!wo se!when!he!combines! he!
ed!swea e !wi h!his!b own!1970s!s yle!co du oy!jacke ,!o !wi h!his!padded!win e !
jacke !in!a!dus y!a my!g een.!The!mos !highly!app ecia ed!ensemble!is!a!combina ion!
wi h!his! a ou i e! ouse s!and!his!D .!Ma ens!boo s,!whe e!he! inds! ha !' he!bo deaux!
colou !doesn' !ha e! he!same!in ensi y,!bu !binds! he!colou s! oge he '.!This!means! ha !
when!he!wea s! his!ensemble!wi hou ! he!boo s,!he! eels! ha :!
!
Colou wise,$I$kind$o $become$ ha $swea e $when$I$wea $i ,$ hen$I$become$a$swea e $wi h$a$man$inside$
o $i .$I$am$mo e$pa ial$ o$mo e$neu al$colou s.$$!
!
The e!is!some!ambi alence!he e!Q!he!would!like!mo e!colou ,!bu !no ! oo!much.!
Appa en ly,! he! ed!nuance!he e!is!‘ oo!much’,!bu !s ill! ep esen s!wha !he!is!looking! o !
in! he! ansi ion!phase!he!is!cu en ly!going! h ough.!(
(

!
132!
(
(((( $
$
Ou doo !ensembles! o ! he! ed!sailo !swea e .!Le ,!wi h!his!dus y!a myQg een!padded!coa .!Righ ,!wi h!his!
b own!lea he !jacke .!(
(
$
Indoo !ensembles! o ! he! ed!sailo !swea e .!!Le ,!wi h!his! a ou i e! ouse s!and!his!home!o ice!glasses.!
Righ ,! he!same!ensemble,!now!in!combina ion!wi h!wi h!his!bo deaux!D .!Ma ens!boo s.!!
!
All!in!all,! he! wo!objec s!ne e ! eally!became! a ou i es!in!Michael's!wa d obe,!and!he!
also!claimed! hey!we e!' he!leas !bad'!o !wha !he!could! ind.!S ill,!as!he!comes! o! hink!
back!on! he!session!we!had!in! he!show oom,!he!is!su p ised! o!no e!how!much!he!does!
app ecia e! hem.!He!is!ce ain! ha ! hese! wo!objec s!we e!no !pa !o ! he!collec ion!I!
sen !him,!bu !conside s! ha ! his!migh ! e y!well!be!because!he!could!no ! ouch! he!
ab ic!as!he!was!checking!ou ! he!websi e,!and!couldn' !see! he!elbow!pa ches,!which!
we e!some!o ! he!de ails!he!liked!abou ! he!ca digan.!A ! he! ime!o ! he!second!session,!
he!had!al eady!s opped!using!bo h!objec s!as! equen ly!as!he!had!been!using! hem!in!
he!beginning.!!
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133!
Jacob!
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Jacob!is!55!yea s!old!and!li es!wi h!his! amily!in!an!apa men !in!Copenhagen.!A ! he!
ime!o ! he!in e iew,!he!was!wo king!as!a!bodyQsds![bodyQsel Qde elopmen Qsys em]!
he apis ,!a!pa ! ime!sales!consul an ,!and!a!consul an !on!smalle !p ojec s.!When!I!
a i e,!I!am!o e ed!co ee!and!b ead,!and!we!ha e!a!nice! alk.!Be o e!I!s a ! ilming,!
Jacob!asks!me!no ! o! ilm!his!wo king! able!in! he!co ne !o !his!bed oom,!since!he! inds!i !
emba assingly!messy.!He!says! he!same!abou !his!d awe s!in!his!wa d obe!close .!
Th oughou ! he!sessions!wi h!Jacob,!I! ind! his!poli eness!and!sensibili y! e y!
cha ac e is ic!o ! he!way!he!s o es!and!uses!his!d ess!objec s.!Bu !I!also! ind!ano he !side!
o !Jacob!and!his!wa d obe,!which!he!has!men ioned!in!ou !mail!co espondence:!his!
penchan ! o !exp essing!himsel !wi h!apa e!and!spec acula !objec s!such!as!wei d!ha s,!
wigs,!o !uni o ms.!Th oughou ! he!session,!I! y! o!unde s and!mo e!abou ! hese! wo!
sides!o !his!d ess!p ac ice:!how! hey!a e!connec ed! o!his!pas ,!how! hey!ha e!eme ged!
and!e ol ed,!and!how!he!na iga es!be ween! hem!in!his!e e yday!li e.!!
!
In!his!bed oom,!he!has!3!wa d obe!cabine s!whe e!he!s o es!his!d ess!objec s.!Unlike!my!
o he !in o man s,! his!is!his!p i a e!wa d obe!close ,!as!his!wi e's!wa d obe!is!elsewhe e!
in! he!apa men .!To! he!le ,!he!has!one!cabine !wi h!shel es!and! h ead!baske s.!In! he!
wo! h ead!baske s!a ! he!bo om,!he!s o es!shoes!Q! hen! he e!is!a! h ead!baske !wi h!
bel s.!In! he!d awe s,!he!s o es!socks,!glo es!and!sca s,!and!pa s!o !his!collec ion!o !
caps.!To! he! igh ,! he e!is!a!double!cabine !wi h!a!la ge! op!shel ,!a!hange ,! wo!la ge!
shel es!and! wo! ead!baske s!a ! he!bo om.!On! he! op!shel ,!he!keeps!a!ca dboa d!box!
wi h!his!a icles!o !jewelle y!and!accesso ies,!such!as!badges,!wa ches,!cu links!and!
o he !memo abilia!in! he!same!ca ego y.!He e,!he!also!s o es!d ess!objec s! om!his!pas !
ha !a e!no!longe !in!use.!On! he!hange s,!he!keeps!shi s,!blaze s,!and!sui s.!Behind!
hese!objec s!he!keeps!shi s!and! ouse s!w apped!up!in!plas ic!bags.!In! he! op!d awe !
unde ! he!hange s,!he!s o es! ouse s,!and!in! he!d awe !jus !below! his!one,!TQshi s.!In!
he! wo! h ead!baske s,!he!keeps,!in! he!uppe !one,!s u ! om!wo k!and!in! he!bo om!
one,!pha maceu ical!p oduc s! o !his!diabe es,!along!wi h!g ooming!p oduc s.!Wha !
s ikes!me!a ! i s !glance!is!how!much!he!s o es,!and!also! ha !he!appea s! o!know!whe e!
all!o !his!d ess!objec s!a e!kep .!!
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134!
He!is! e y!sys ema ic!in! he!way!he!manages!his!wa d obe.!All!o ! he!objec s!a e!easy! o!
ind,!and!i !seems!like!he!has!ca ego ised!all! ha !he!s o es!so! ha !he!can!easily! ind!wha !
he!needs! o ! a ious!pu poses!such!as!being!a !a!pa y,!spending!leisu e! ime,!o !doing!
di e en ! ypes!o !wo k.!Jacob!s a s!by! elling!me!abou !his! a ious!ca ego ies!o !shi s,!
o ! a ious!pu poses.!Then!he!mo es!on! o!TQshi s,!and! hen!goes!back!again! o! alk!
abou ! he!pa y!cos umes! ha !a e!mos ly!s o ed!on! he!hange s.!Then!he!goes! h ough!
his!d awe !wi h! ouse s,!goes!back! o! he!cabine !wi h!hange s!and! inds!a!box!wi h!
a ious!memo abilia,!and! hen!mo es!on! o!shoes.!Finally,!he!shows!me!his!accesso ies.!!
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The(chameleon(
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In!Jacob’s!wa d obe,! he e!a e!ou i s! o ! a ious! endi ions!o !himsel ,!which!he!plays!
ou !in!connec ion!wi h! a ious! ypes!o !wo k.!The! e sions! ha !I!am!p esen ed! o!
h oughou ! he!cou se!o !ou !wa d obe!session!a e!wha !he!calls,! espec i ely,!' he!
shipping!man',!' he!ligh !pe son',!' he!OK!man',!and!' he! he apis '.!All! hese! e sions!o !
Jacob!a e!pu !in!play!in!his!wo k! ou ines.!His!wo king!week!a ! he! ime!o ! he!in e iew!
is!di ided!up,!and!ma ches! hese! a ious!pe sonae.!In!his!own!wo ds,!!
!
Then,$I$change$my$skin,$so$ ha $when$I$ u n$up$ o $ he$job,$I$am$ his$man.$This$has$been$a$way$o $
su i ing.$$
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Two!days!a!week,!he!wo ks!a ! he!bodyQsds! he apeu ic!clinic,!whe e!he!gi es!
ea men s.!Fo ! his!wo k,!he!has!a!line!o !TQshi s!and!a!jacke !wi h! he!logo!and!name!
o ! he!clinic!he!wo ks!a .!!
$
Ano he !impo an !ou i !a ! he! ime!o ! he!in e iew!is!his!ou i ! o ! he!company,!OK!(a!
la ge!Danish!ene gy!company),! o !which!he!has! a ious! asks! ha !a e!sp ead!all!
h oughou ! he!week.!When!he!wo ks! o !OK,!he!is! ully!equipped!wi h!logoQembossed!
clo hing,!consis ing!o !TQshi s,! ouse s,!an!o e coa !and!a!badge.!!
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135!
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Wo kwea ! o !Jacob's!job!a ! he!Danish!ene gy!company,!'OK'.!!
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His! emaining!ensembles!a e!mo e!closely!connec ed! o!Jacob's!own!pe sonal! as es,!bu !
hey!a e!s ill!adjus ed! o ! he!pu pose!o !ma ching!wi h!his! espec i e!clien s.!These!
ensembles! ange! om! a he !expensi e,!d essy!s yles,! o!mo e!casual!ones.!As!such,! hey!
can!be!posi ioned!in! he! ollowing!hie a chy:!!
!
A ! he! op,!he!has! h ee!d ess!objec s!o ! he!b and!Hugo!Boss:!shoes,!slim! i ! ouse s,!
and!a!ma ching!business!bag.!Fo ! his!ensemble,!he!p e e s!shi s!o ! he!E on!b and.!He!
has!se e al!o ! hese.!Some!a e!d ess!shi s! ha !accommoda e!cu links,!and!some!a e!a!
bi !mo e!casual,!such!as!one!wi h!al e na ing!na ow!s ipes!in!a!whi e!and!sligh ly!seeQ
h ough! ab ic.!This!one!he!likes,!because!he! inds!i !'pa icula ly! endy! igh !now'.!!
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Elemen s!in!Jacob's! o mal,!d essy!ou i :!his!Hugo!Boss!shoes;!and!his!E on!shi s!
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Less!d essy!bu !none heless! o mal!ou i s! o !' he!mo e!a chi ec Qlike',!o !' his!ligh !
pe son',!a e!shi s! ha !a e!sligh ly!mo e! ashionable! han! he!E on!shi s.!This!could!be!a!
whi e!shi !wi h!a!disc e e!p in !o !blue!do ed!lines,!a!disc e ely!checkQpa e ned!shi !
in!whi e!and!ligh !blue,!o !a!denim!shi .!He!says! ha ! hese!shi s!a e! ypically!a!bi !mo e!
'spo y'! han! he!d essy!shi s.!He!mos ly!wea s! hese!shi s!wi h!black!jeans,!because!he!
says! ha !!
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Fo $mee ings$wi h$ ew$people,$ hen$ he e$is$ he$whi e$shi $and$ hese$days,$mos ly$black$jeans.$This$
is$mo e$and$mo e$ he$gene al$business$uni o m,$i $you$a e$no $wea ing$ hose$kinds$o $business$
ouse s.$$
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142!
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A ! he!end!o ! he!session,!we!si !and! alk!a!lo !abou !his! amily,!and! alk!abou !how!he!
lea ned! o!i on!his!shi s!and!wea !all! he! o mal,!d essy!ou i s,!bu !also!how!he!had!a!
lo e,! e y!ea ly!on,! o ! he!ex ao dina y.!And!how!he!lo ed!mo ing! o!New!Yo k,!
because!!
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In$New$Yo k,$you$can$wea $any hing.$I$wo e$ u quoise$shoes$and$ hey$didn' $ma ch$my$s yle,$and$my$
boss$asked$me$wha $ he$hell$I$was$wea ing.$$I$lo ed$ hose$shoes!$
$
He!also!says! ha !!
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I 's$all$abou $being$a$ illage$idio .$I $you' e$no ,$wha $do$you$ge $ou $o $li e?$
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A e !we!ha e!wo ked!ou !way! h ough!his!wa d obe,!and! he!session!is!abou ! o!end,!he!
inds! he! i s !d ess!objec ! ha !he!e e !pu chased!wi h!his!own!money,!when!he!was!
only!13!o !14!yea s!old.!I ’s!a!ladies’! ie,!in! e y!b igh !colou s,!and!jus !like!when!he!
alked!abou !his! a ou i e!shoes,! he!a mosphe e!in! he! oom!suddenly!becomes! e y!
in ima e,!as!he!is!cuddling! he! ie!wi h!his!hands.!The! ie!was!bough ! o !his!own!pocke !
money!in!a!shop!in!cen al!Copenhagen.!E en!i !Jacob!is!a!man!o !many!colou s!and!
disguises,! he e!is! his!‘ ed! h ead’!o !ad en u e!and!spa kle,!combined!wi h!oldQ
ashioned!e ique e!and!ideas!abou !quali y! unning! h ough!his!wa d obe!biog aphy.!!
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Jacob's!ladies’! ie,! he! i s !d ess!objec !he!e e !pu chased!himsel !
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In( he(show oom(a (Nø gaa d!
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Jacob!had!looked! e y! ho oughly!a ! he!collec ion,!and!a ! he!campaign!ma e ial.!The!
esul !o ! his!is! ha !he!was! e y! ocused!when!he!a i ed,!and! ha !he!mo e!o !less!knew!
wha !he!wan ed.!Now!he!wan ed! o! y!i !on,!and! o!look!a !himsel !in! he!mi o ,! o!
make! he! inal!decision.!He! ied!on! he!'Kenne h!Lambswool'!s yle,!a!ligh !g ey!swea e !

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143!
wi h!a! ound!neck!and!black!elbow!pa ches! ha ! eally!appealed! o!him.!He!also!looked!
a !a!pink!shi ,!bu !didn' !choose! his!one!because!'I!am!no !allowed,!by!my!wi e,! o!wea !
pink’.!Finally,!he!chose! he!s yle,!'Klemens!Zip!Kon as !S yle',! he!g ey!sailo !swea e !
wi h!an!o ange!zippe ,!which!Michael!had!looked!a !as!well.!He!also!chose! he!'B o he !
Sa een!S yle!no.!30092'!s yle,!a!g ey!smoking!blaze !wi h!black!sa in!lapels.!When!he!
looked!in! he!mi o ,!he!pulled!up! he!lapel!in! he!back.!He! ound! ha !i !looked!coole !
his!way.!!
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Howe e ,!he! ound! ha ! he!slee es!we e! oo!long.!A ! ha !poin !in! he!session,! he e!was!
a!o e !ex ended! o!him! o!ha e! he!slee es!al e ed!a ! he!design!s udio.!
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Jacob!looked!a ! his!pink!shi ,!and!a ! his!ligh !g ey!swea e ,!bu !chose!ins ead!a!g ey!sailo !swea e !wi h!an!
o ange!zippe ,!and!a!g ey!smoking!jacke !wi h!black!sa in!lapels.!!
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Second(session(
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When!we!me !again,!I!b ough !p in ou s!o ! he!p obes! o!Jacobs’s!apa men .!A ! i s ,!we!
discussed! he!pho os,!back!and! o h.!Bu ! hen,!when!we!s a ed! o! alk!abou ! he!
smoking!jacke ,!Jacob!s a s!b inging!in!o he !jacke s!as!well,! o!show!me!how! hey!all!
look!when!he!wea s! hem.!Jacob!has!been! e y!pleased!wi h!bo h! he!swea e !and! he!
smoking!jacke ,!and!he!claims! ha !he!has!used!bo h!objec s! equen ly.!Ac ually,!he!says!
ha !on! he!a e age,!he!belie es!he!has!used! he!swea e !once!a!week.!S ill,!mos !o ! he!
p obes! ha !he!sen !me!du ing! he!5!mon h!pe iod!we e! aken!when!he!was!on!a!holiday!
in!New!Yo k!wi h!his! amily,!so! hese!a e!wha !we!discuss! he!mos .!Fo ! he!mos !pa ,!
he!has!combined! he!swea e !wi h!TQshi s!o !a!shi .!On!one!o ! he!pho os,!he!is!a !a!
amily!pa y!jus !a ound! he! ime!o !Ch is mas.!He!smiles!and!says! ha !he e,! he!swea e !
'is!a!li le! igh !a ound! he!belly',!because!he!had!gained!a!li le!weigh .!Bu !s ill,!he!was!
pleased!wi h! his!ensemble.!Ano he !ensemble!including! he!swea e !is!a!combina ion!
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144!
wi h!a!black!shi ,!black!jeans,!and!black!d ess!shoes.!He!wo e! his!when!he!wen ! o! isi !
his! o me !wo kplace!in!New!Yo k.$He!also!used! his!ensemble!combined!wi h!black,!
d essy! ouse s! o !being!a ! he!ai po ,!because!he!wan ed! o!look!s ylish!when!
a elling.!!
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Jacob! ells!me!se e al! imes! ha !he!has! eally!used! he!swea e !a!lo .!He!has!also!me !
o he !men!wea ing!a!simila !one,!pe haps!e en!wi h!a!di e en !colou ed!zippe ,!and!he!
likes! ha ! hey!ha e!been!discussing! hei !swea e s!Q!jus !like!people!who!d i e!a!
Volkswagen!who!g ee !each!o he !when! hey!mee .!He!has!washed!i ! wo! imes!and!
ollowed! he!washing!ins uc ions! e y!ca e ully.!A e wa ds!he!i oned!i ,!because!i !said!
on! he!ins uc ions! ha ! his!was!okay.!Howe e ,! his! ea men !caused! he!wool! o!lose!
i s!shape,!which!is! e y!un o una e.!Jacob!had!no !no iced! his!himsel ,!bu !when!his!
daugh e ! ook!a!pho o!o !him!in!New!Yo k,!she! old!him! ha !i !ga e!him!'male!boobs'.!
This!is!because! he!kni ! igh ens! igh !unde nea h! he!bubble!pa e n,!while!i !has!
become! e y!loose!on! he!ches ,!so! ha !i !looks!as!i !he!is!wea ing!a!b a.!He!has!wo n!i !a!
lo !wi h! he!zippe !hal !closed,!because!he! ound! ha !i !ga e!him!a!mo e!masculine!
shape,!bu !he!can!now!only!wea !i !when!i !is!open.!And!he e,! he!p oblem!is! ha ! he!
inne !coa ing!behind! he!zippe ! laps!ou !and! wis s:!i !doesn' !s ay!in!place.!S ill!Jacob!
belie es! ha !i !mus !be!a!ma e !o !i oning!and!s yling,! ha !he!migh !s ill!be!able! o!wea !
i !i !he!wea s!i !in! he! igh !way.!To!me,!i !looks!like!i !is!wo n!ou !and!will!soon!become!
a!passi e!objec !in!his!wa d obe,!un il!i !is!e en ually!disca ded.!!
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145!
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Jacob!wea ing!his!sailo !swea e ! om!Mads!Nø gaa dQCopenhagen.!F om!le ! o! igh :!a !a! amily!pa y;!on!
he!s ee !in!New!Yo k!(whe e!his!daugh e !quips! ha !he!has!'male!boobs');!a ! he!ai po .!!
!
Jacob!is! eally,! eally!pleased!wi h!his!smoking!jacke ,!and! inds!i !almos !as!good!as!a!
ailo Qmade!jacke .(He!has!used!i !a!lo ! o !special!e en s!such!as!pa ying,!combining! he!
jacke !wi h! aine s!and!a!TQshi !so! ha !i !looks!'a!li le!mo e!cool!and!spo y'.!He!is!
e y!pleased!wi h! he!al e a ions! ha !we e!made!a ! he!Nø gaa d!design!s udio.!I !
doesn' !show!on! he!p obes,!bu !he!has!wo n!i !mos ly!wi h! he!colla !pulled!up,!e en!i !
his! amily!dislikes! his.!Jacob!belie es! ha !pulling!up! he!colla !gi es!him!a!li le!mo e!o !
a!TQshape,!and! ells!me! ha !ac ually,!you!can!buy! ailo ed!jacke s!wi h! his! unc ionali y!
implemen ed!in! he!cons uc ion.!In!a!way! ha !is! ypical! o !Jacob,!he!knows!abou !such!
ailo ing!de ails,!and! ies! o!implemen ! his! unc ion!in!his!new!jacke .!On! he!p obes,!
he e!a e! a ious!ensembles,!and!he!is!pa icula ly! ond!o !his!New!Yea !ensemble!wi h!
a!whi e!shi ,!black!jeans,!hea y!black!bel !and!black!d ess!shoes.!On!a!day! ip!in!New!
Yo k,!he!wo e! he!same!ensemble,!only!wi h!a!new!black!TQshi !wi h!a!whi e!p in .!A !a!
ba !in!New!Yo k,!he!wea s!a!spo ie !ensemble,!wi h! he!combina ion!o !a!whi e!shi ,!a!
g ey!swea shi !('new,!so! ha !i !s ayed!in!shape'),!and!black!and!whi e! aine s.!(
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146!
(((((( (((((
Jacob!wea ing!his!Mads!Nø gaa dQCopenhagen!smoking!jacke !on!New!Yea 's!E e!2011!and!again!a !a!ba !in!
New!Yo k!Ci y.!!
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$
To!show!me!wha !he!means,!he!pulls!ou !some!o ! he!o he !jacke s! om!his!wa d obe,!
and!pu s! hem!on.!Wi h! he!colla !up,!he! eels!mo e!'young!and!cool'!in!his!Mads!
Nø gaa d!smoking.!Howe e ,!a !a!la e !poin !in! ime!he!w i es! o!me! ha !he!
un o una ely!go !some!s ains!on! he!jacke !by!acciden ,!and!has!no !been!able! o!clean!
hem! om! he! ab ic,!why! he!jacke !has!now!gone!ou !o !use.!!!
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Jacob!shows!me!his!Mads!Nø gaa d!smoking!jacke !wi h! he!colla !pulled!up.!Some!mon hs!a e ! his,!he!
sends!me!a!pho o!o ! he!s ains! ha !subsequen ly! uined! he!jacke .!!
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147!
Pelle!
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Pelle!is!42!yea s!old,!and!li es!in!an!apa men !in!Copenhagen!wi h!his!wi e.!He!has! wo!
eenage!child en! om!an!ea lie !ma iage! ha !li e! he e!pa Q ime!as!well.!Pelle! uns!a!
success ul!communica ion!agency! oge he !wi h!a!pa ne .!So!he!is!a! e y!busy!man.!
Because!o !his!wo king!hou s,!I!a i e!ea ly!one!e ening!a ! he!apa men ,!whe e!he!
o e s!me!co ee! om!a! e y! ancy!co ee!machine!in!his!ki chen!be o e!we!s a .!Pelle!
sha es!a!wallQ oQwall!wa d obe!close !wi h!his!wi e,!an!oldQ ashioned!buil Qin!wa d obe!
ha !is!commensu a e!wi h! he! ela i ely!luxu ious!apa men !in!one!o !Copenhagen's!
mo e!a luen !neighbou hoods.!In!a!double!cabine ,!he!s o es!shi s,!sui s,!blaze s!and!
ies.!In!a!single!cabine !wi h!d awe s!he!has!a!d awe ! o !kni wea ,!a!d awe ! o !TQshi s!
and!hoodies,!and!a!d awe ! o ! ouse s!and!swea pan s.!!
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Pelle! ells!me! ha ,! o !many!yea s,!he!s o ed!a!lo !in!his!wa d obe,!bu ! ha ! h oughou !
he!la e !yea s,!he!has!made!some!se ious! e isions.!Fi s !o !all,!he!mo ed!because!he!
go !di o ced! om!his!exQwi e.!Then!he!me !his!cu en !wi e,!and!he!had! o!make!space!in!
he!wa d obe!close ! o !he .!A e !one!yea !wi h!he ,!he!had!s a ed! unning!and!doing!a!
lo !o !exe cise,!and!had!los !so!much!weigh ! ha !he!had! o!le !go!o !a!lo ! ha !was! oo!big!
o !him.!By! ha ! ime,!he!had!los !15!kilog ammes.!He!said! ha !in! his! e ision,!he!s ill!
kep !a!lo !o !objec s! om!his!pas ,!because!he!couldn' !le !go!o ! hem.!Bu ! hen!he!los !
mo e!weigh ,!7!kilog ammes!mo e,!and!had! o! e ise!his!wa d obe!once!again,!and! hen!
mos !o ! hese! hings!we e! inally!disca ded.!These!days,!he! akes!pa !in!I on!Man!
con es s!all!o e ! he!wo ld!in!his!spa e! ime.!All! his!means! ha !Pelle!has! e y! ew!olde !
objec s!in!his!wa d obe,!aside! om!his!shoe!collec ion,!because!as!he! ells!me,!he!s ill!
uses! he!same!shoe!size.!Jus !like!Jacob,!Pelle!dis inguishes!qui e! igidly!be ween!
d essing! o !wo k!and!d essing! o !his!p i a e!li e,!al hough!some!objec s!can!wo k! o !
bo h.!As!is! he!case!wi h!bo h!Michael!and!Jacob,!Pelle!is!also! e y!awa e!o !ma ching!his!
a ious!clien s!wi h!wha !he!wea s.!Unlike!Jacob,!howe e ,!Pelle!does!no !seem! o!know!
abou !d essing!e ique es! o !d essy! o malwea ! om!his!childhood.!This!is!some hing!
he!lea ned!himsel !when!he!s a ed!wo king,!because!he!had! o.!Wha !I! egis e !in!
pa icula !as!we! alk!ou !way! h ough!his!wa d obe!is!how!his!ou i s! o !wo k!and!
leisu e! ime!di e !in! hei ! espec i e!colou !pale es.!His!wo kwea !is!mos ly!in!ligh ,!
delica e!blue!colou s,!na y!blue,!whi e,!o !black.!Only!single!objec s!such!as!a!pai !o !

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chinos!a e!in!ligh !b own.!His!p i a e!wa d obe!is!mo e!colou ul,!in!pa icula !his!
homewea .!He e,!I!see!b igh ! eds,!b igh !g eens,!p in s,!and!TQshi s!wi h!s a emen s!
and!colou ul!p in s.!I!also! egis e !his! ancy! o !displaying!his!new!and! i !body! h ough!
wea ing! igh Q i ing!objec s,!and! o ! e y!so !ma e ials!as!in!some!o !his!kni wea ,!and!
his!swea pan s!and!hoodies! ha !he!wea s!a !home.!Pelle!s a s!by! alking!abou !his!
shi s,!and! hen!mo es!on! o! he! ies,!sui s!and!blaze s.!Then! ollow! he! ouse s,! he!
swea pan s,! he!hoodies!and!kni wea ,! he!TQshi s,!and! inally! he!shoes.!!
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'Ha dco e'( e sus('so co e'!
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Pelle's!wa d obe! o !wo k!is!di ided!in o!a!hie a chy!be ween!wha !he!calls!'ha dco e'!
and!'so co e'.!Each!o ! hese!ca ego ies!is!de ined!–!and!explained!–!by!heaps!o !shi s!
ha !he! akes!ou !and!places!on!his!bed.!He!wea s!shi s!almos !e e y!day!a !wo k,!and!
o en!changes!in o!TQshi s!when!he!ge s!home.!The e o e,!his!shi s!a e!a! e y!
impo an !pa !o !his!ensembles! o !wo k.!Like!bo h!Michael!and!Jacob,!Pelle!is! e y!
awa e!o !how! o!ma ch! a ious!clien s,!and!how!his!appea ance!can!s eng hen!his!
posi ion!in! ela ion! o!compe i o s.!Like!Jacob,!he!has!a!hie a chy!o ! a ious!objec s! ha !
he!can!combine!in!o de ! o!adjus !his!appea ance.!!
!
A ! he! op!o ! he!wo k!hie a chy!is!wha !he!calls!'ha dco e',!which!he!wea s!on! a e!
occasions.!This!is!wha !he!wea s!when,! o !example,!he!wo ks!wi h!his! op!clien s.!Like!
Jacob,!he!uses!whi e!shi s!o ! he!E on!b and! o !such! ypes!o !wo k.!In!his!mos ! o mal!
ensembles,!he!uses!whi e!E on!shi s! ha !a e!cu !so!as! o!accommoda e!cu links,!and!
combines! hese!wi h!his!Hugo!Boss!sui s,!one!o !his!g een!silk! ies,!and!shoes!wi h!a!ha d!
heel.!He!only!wea s!sui s!o ! he!Hugo!Boss!b and.!He! ells!me!he!has! ied!a!queue!o !
o he !b ands! ha !we e! eally!disappoin ing! o!him,!especially! wo!sui s!o ! he!A mani!
ha !b and!we e! e y!cos ly!bu !none heless!wo e!ou !quickly,!when! he!lining!b oke!
a ound! he!s i ches!a e !only!a! ew! imes!o !use.!The! wo!Hugo!Boss!sui s!a e!some!o !
he! ew!d ess!objec s! ha !ha e!su i ed!his!wa d obe! e isions.!This!is!because!he!had!
hem!al e ed!by!a! ailo !so! ha ! hey!would!ma ch!his!new!body!size.!Ac ually,!he! inds!
ha ! hey!became!e en!be e !a e ! his,!because! hey! i !his!body!pe ec ly!now.!!
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F om!le ! o! igh ,!Pelle's!E on!shi s!in!his!heap!wi h!d essy! o mal!shi s,!and!his! wo!Hugo!Boss!sui s!!
!
Pelle!is! he! i s !o ! he!in o man s!so! a ! o!men ion! he!impo ance!o !sound!in!wha !he!
wea s,!and! his!comes! o h!as!we! alk!abou ! he!shoes! ha !he!would!wea ! o ! hese!
ou i s.!He!would!ne e !wea !shoes!wi h!a!so !sole! o !a!'ha dco e'!ensemble.!We! alk!
abou ! his!as!he!shows!me!a!pai !o !black!goa skin!loa e s! ha !he!bough !in!Rome,!and!
ne e !wea s.!He!liked! hem!a ! he! ime!o ! he!pu chase,!bu !when!he!go !home!he! ound!
hem! o!be! oo!'I alian'.!A !se e al!momen s!du ing! he!session,!he!would!men ion!I alian!
menswea !as!a! e e ence!poin .!Fo !example,!he! ells!me!how!I alian!men!ha e!made!i !
mo e!mains eam! o!wea !b own!shoes!and!bel s,!and!pink!shi s,!and!how! his!has!
opened!up! oom! o !No dic!men!like!himsel ! o!be!mo e!da ing.!Howe e ,! he e!a e!
limi a ions:!when!he!wo e!his!loa e s! o!wo k!one!day,!he!go !bullied!by!his!colleagues,!
so!he!has!ne e !done! his!again.!When!I!ask!mo e!abou !wha !is!w ong!wi h! hem,!he!
says! ha ! hey!a e! oo!'e emina e'.!To!show!me!wha !he!means!by! his,!he! akes!up!a!pai !
o !shoes!wi h!a!ha d!heel,!which!he!uses! o !his!'ha dco e'!ensembles.!As!we! alk!abou !
i ,!he!says.!!!
!
A $ he$ op$o $ he$powe $scale$ he e$a e$ hese$ones,$ hey$a e$jus $' ong',$so$cool,$and$no $a $all$
e emina e.$The e’s$some$kind$o $design$and$some hing$you h ul$abou $ hem,$and$ hen$ hey$a e$a$
li le$mo e$' ong'$(claps$wi h$ he$hand$on$ he$heel$so$ ha $i $makes$a$sound).$I ’s$some hing$qui e$
masculine:$ ha $o he s$can$hea $you.$(He$ akes$up$ano he $pai $and$claps$ he$heels$ oge he $so$ ha $
hey$make$a$clacking$noise)$The$same$coun s$ o $ hese$ones.$This$ca ego y$is$ o $sui s$and$wo k.$$
$
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Pelle!has!made!a!heap!wi h!all!o !his!shoes!wi h!ha d!heels,!which!he!can!use! o !his!'ha dco e'!ensembles.!!
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Pelle!would!ne e !change!his!ensemble!du ing! he!day.!As!Jacob!did,!he! ells!me! ha !he!
would!selec !wha ! o!wea ! o !a!gi en!wo k!day!acco ding! o! he!'highes !le el'.!Pelle!is!
e y!awa e!o !how!he!can!wo k!wi h!his!appea ance.!And! ha ,!ac ually,!he!is!no !
d essing! o!ma ch,!bu ! a he ! o!'o e ma ch':!
!
I$will$ma ch$ he$ op$guys$in$ he$company$who$ha e$a$subs an ial$powe .$I$mi o $ his$powe $in$wha $I$
wea .$When$I$am$in$smalle $companies,$ he$ op$guys$don' $d ess$up$as$much,$and$I$will$ma ch$ his$as$
well.$I $I$am$in$a$smalle $company,$I$d ess$up$so$ ha $I$look$like$a$guy$who$knows$s u .$I$show$ hem$
ha $he e$is$someone$wi h$expe ience.$Like$ oday,$when$I$was$ acili a ing$a$con e ence,$ hen$I$wo e$a$
sui $ o$unde line$ ha $I$know$wha $I’m$doing.$
$
All! oge he ,! he!'ha dco e'!ensembles!aid!Pelle!in!posi ioning!himsel !a !wo k,!bu !he!
only!uses! hem! o !speci ic!wo kdays.!On!o he !days,!he!wea s!shi s!and!ma ching!
ensembles!in! he!ca ego y! ha !he!calls!'o dina y!business'.!These!shi s!a e!blue!o !
black,!and!he!combines! hem!wi h!jeans!o !chinos,!and!a!blaze .!He!owns! wo!g ey!wool!
blaze s! om!Hugo!Boss! ha !he!uses! o ! his!ca ego y.!Fo ! his,!he!mos ly!wea s!shoes!
wi h!a!ha d!heel,!bu !migh !conside !wea ing!d essy!shoes!wi h!a!so e !heel!as!well.!
This!ca ego y!is! o !wha !he!calls!'o dina y!mee ings'.!!
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The! hi d!heap!he!calls!'casual',!and! hese!shi s!could!be!a!designe !shi !such!as!one!o !
he!Paul!Smi h!b and,!o ! hey!could!be! he!ones! ha !he!bough !in!Rome,!wi h!disc e e!
checkQpa e ns.!The!o e all!colou !pale e!is!blue,!whi e!and!g ey,!possibly!black,! hough!
he!ac ually!doesn' !use! he!black!ones! ha !much.!I !is!in! his!heap! ha !he! inds!his!
a ou i e!shi ,!a!ligh !blue!one.!I !has!disc e e!designe !de ails!such!as!s ipes!in!delica e!
ligh !yellow!and!whi e!on! he!inne !coa ing!behind! he!bu ons,!and!elbow!pa ches!in!
delica e!ligh !yellow.!The!cu !is!slimline,!which!he! inds!is!niceQlooking.!These!ones!can!
c oss! he!line!be ween!casual!business!mee ings,!and!mee ing!up!wi h! iends.!The!same!
goes! o !a!simila !shi ,!in! he!same!colou ,!o ! he!F anklin!and!Ma shall!b and.!He!calls!
hese!'cool!allQ ound!shi s'.!These!ou i s!a e!combined!wi h!shoes!wi h!a!so !heel,!
possibly!his!Con e se!boo s,!o !a!pai !o !designe !sneake s!wi h!leopa d!p in !inside,!
colou !de ails!on! he!laces,!and!made!ou !o !na y!blue!suede!skin.!O !wi h!one!o !his!
mos !used!a icles!o ! oo wea :!a!pai !o !black!ankle!boo s!wi h!elas ic!bands!in! he!side,!
and!ha d!heels.!The!'casual'!ca ego y!is!also!whe e!he!uses!a!lo !o !kni wea ,!such!as!his!
wo!simila !ligh !blue!VQneck!pullo e s!o ! he!Lyle!&!Sco !b and,!which!he!wea s!o e !a!
TQshi .!These!a e!some!o !his! a ou i e!d ess!objec s.!The!same!goes! o !a!beige!pullo e !
o ! he!Danish!b and,!Day!Bi ge !e !Mikkelsen,!wi h!an!imp essi ely!la ge!VQneck!neck!
opening,!and!shiny!bu ons!made!ou !o !mo he Qo Qpea l.!This!one,!howe e ,!is!no !
app op ia e! o !wea ing! o!wo k,!and! his!is!because!o ! he!neck!opening.!He! ells!me!
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his!i !would!make!him! eel!' oo!much!in! ocus'.!His!mos ! a ou i e!kni wea !objec !is!his!
na y!blue!sailo !swea e !wi h!a!me al!zippe ! om!Mads!Nø gaa d.!This!is!used! o !mos !
pu poses,! om!'o dina y!business'! o!'casual',! o!leisu e! ime.!He!is! e y!speci ic!and!
clea !when!he! ells!me! ha !he!ne e !washes!i ,!and! ha ! his!is!why!i ! e ains!i s!shape!
and!colou .!Ins ead,!he!ai s!i .!The!same!goes! o !jeans!in! his!ca ego y.!His! a ou i e!
ones! ha !he!wea s!du ing! he!session!a e!o ! he!Japanese!b and,!Edwin,!and! hey!ha e!
ne e !been!washed.!Pelle!does! his!because!he!has!been!ad ised! o! e ain! om!doing!so!
by!his!'jeans!pushe ',!a!local!shop!owne !whe e!he!bough ! hem.!He!app ecia es!a!shop!
like! his,!whe e!he!ge s!special!ad ice! ela ed! o! ea men ,!main enance,!and!use!o ! he!
a icles!o !clo hing.!He!also!app ecia es!how! he!b ands!sold!in! his!shop!a e!exclusi e,!
and!a e!no !known!by!e e ybody.!!
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F om!le ! o! igh :!Pelle's! a ou i e!shi ,!wi h!designe !de ails!and! he!p e e ed!slimQline!cu ;!his!Lyle!&!
Sco !pullo e s!nex ! o!his!pullo e ! om!Day!Bi ge !&!Mikkelsen;!and!his!shoes,!wi h!so !heels! ha !he!uses!
o ! he!‘casual'!ca ego y.!
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This!ca ego y!has!an!al oge he !so e !exp ession!in!compa ison!wi h! he! i s ! wo,!and!
when!i !comes! o! o!wo k,!he!uses! hese!ensembles! o !e en s!like!mee ings!wi h!clien s!
om! he!public!sec o ,!and! o !o ice!days.!As!we! alk!ou !way! h ough! his!ca ego y,!I!
ask!him!speci ically!abou !his!job!as!a!consul an ,!and!he!has! his! o!say:!!
!
I$ hink$ ha $in$ he$business$o $communica ion$we$ha e$a$la ge$scope$ o $d essing.$Bu $we$also$ ace$
he$challenge$ ha $i $people$a e$ hinking$ ha $we$a e$ hese$c ea i e$guys,$ hey$migh $ge $disappoin ed$
when$I$ u n$up$in$my$Hugo$Boss$sui .$Because$ his$is$no $wha $ hey$expec ed,$ hey$migh $ha e$
expec ed$a$ unny$T shi ,$o $a$pai $o $Con e se$boo s.$My$appea ance$is$abou $gene a ing$ he$ igh $
expec a ions.$
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While!he! inds!i !easy! o!na iga e!himsel ,!he! ells!me! ha !ac ually,! he e!a e!wo kdays!
whe e! he e!a e! e y!exac !d ess!codes!in! o ce.!And! his!is!whe e! he!ca ego y!o !
'casual'!business! eally!s a s! o!c oss!o e !wi h!his!o Qwo k!wa d obe.!Fo !example,!he!
ells!me! ha !a! ew!mon hs!be o e! he!session,!he!managed!a! ou Qday!cou se!in! he!
Uni ed!S a es! o !an!impo an !clien .!He e,!e e y!one!o ! he!pa icipan s! ecei ed!a!lis !
o !d ess!codes! o !each!e en ,! eple e!wi h! ull!desc ip ions!dis inguishing!be ween,! o !
example,!'casual',!'sma !casual',!and!'spo y!casual'.!Fo !each!ca ego y,!ce ain!examples!
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as!a! esul !o ! hei !becoming!c i ically!engaged!wi h! his!kind!o ! esea ch!objec i e.!
Wha !I!could!imagine!doing!lends!i sel ! o!being!di ided!in o! wo,!o e all!app oaches:!
!
The! i s !o ! hese!would!be!a!c i ical!design!app oach! ha ! alls!in!line!wi h!Dunne!&!
Raby's!concep !o !Design(Noi :!
!
"Like(in(Film(Noi ,( he(emphasis(would(be(on(exis en ialism.(Imagine(objec s( ha (gene a e(
'exis en ial(momen s'(7(a(dilemma,( o (ins ance(7(which( hey(would(s age(o (d ama ise.(
These(objec s(would(no (help(people( o(adap ( o(exis ing(social,(cul u al(and(poli ical(
alues.(Ins ead,( he(p oduc (would( o ce(a(decision(on o( he(use ,( e ealing(how(limi ed(
choices(a e(usually(ha d7wi ed(in o(p oduc s( o (us.((
[...]!
C i ical(design(is( ela ed( o(hau e(cou u e,(concep (ca s,(design(p opaganda,(and( isions(o (
he( u u e,(bu (i s(pu pose(is(no ( o(p esen ( he(d eams(o (indus y,(a ac (new(business,(
an icipa e(new( ends(o ( es ( he(ma ke .(I s(pu pose(is( o(s imula e(discussion(and(deba e(
amongs (designe s,(indus y(and( he(public."(
!!!!!!!(Dunne!&!Raby!2001:270+271)!
!
Such!an!app oach!would! e lec !Busch's!call! o !a!'Cope nican!Re olu ion'!wi h!an!‘a m’s!
leng h’! o! he! ashion!indus y,!in!which!design! esea che s!could!conduc !expe imen s!
whe e! hey!ques ion! hei !own!p o ession!and! he!way! ha !i !connec s! o!use!
expe ience.!Being!a!pa !o !such! esea ch!p ojec !would!enable!me! o!add ess!socie al!
challenges!like!sus ainabili y,!gende !issues,!e hnic!issues,!o !o he !exis en ial!ques ions!
which! ouble!and!gi e! ise! o!'d essing!dilemmas'! o ! he!indi idual!wea e .!He e,!I!see!
how!my!explana o y! amewo ks!o !'sa o ial!sys ems'!and!'senso y!ancho ing'!could!
wo k!as! uel! o !a!line!o ! hinking! ha !would!be!de ached! om! he!d eams!and!needs!o !
indus y,!while!simul aneously! e lec ing!and!commen ing!on! he!socie al!se ing!and!
agendas!o !indus y.!!
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A!second!app oach!in! ela ion! o! his!pa h!o !enqui y!would!be! o!engage!e en!mo e!
in ima ely!wi h! he! ashion!indus y!in! he!shape!o !collabo a i e!p ojec s!such!as! he!
one!I!ca ied!ou !wi h!Mads!Nø gaa d.!By!and!la ge,! his!could!in ol e!pu suing! he!
objec i e!o !es ablishing!a!g ea e !sense!o !awa eness!in! he!indus y!abou ! he!'a e Q
li e'!o !d ess!objec s,!in!which!b and! alues!a e! ans o med!and!app op ia ed!in o! he!
alues!engaged!by! he!wea e .!Again,!my! esea ch!design!would!ha e! o!be!adjus ed!i !I!
we e! o! u n!my!e o s! owa ds!wo king!wi h!pa s!o ! he! ashion!indus y!sec o !o he !

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han! he!‘designQled’,!medium!p ice!sec o ! ha !cons i u es! he!one! ep esen ed!he e.!
And!all! he!mo e!so,!seeing!as!a!p ac iceQled!p og am!would! equi e!expe imen s!along!
he!lines!o ! he!design:lab!idea!pu ! o h!by!Binde !e !al.,!wi h!wo kshop! o ma s! o !
p ac ical!ac ion.!!
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I!will!now! u n! o! he!second!pa h!o ! esea ch! ha !I!see!as! alling!in!line!wi h!wha !I!ha e!
done!he e,!which!would!be! o!pu sue!a! u he !con ibu ion! o! ashion!and!d ess!
esea ch!in! he! o m!o !'applied! esea ch'.!In! ela ion! o! his,!I!belie e! ha !in! his! hesis,!I!
ha e!only!jus !opened! he!doo ! o! he!ex ensi e!pe spec i es!o e ed!by!Klepp's!concep !
o !' a ou i es'.!One!di ec ion! o!explo e,! ollowing! he!implica ions!sugges ed!by! his!
pe spec i e,!could!be! o!pu sue!a!cul u al!s udies!app oach! o! he!way!people!engage!
wi h!musical!gen es!in! hei !a i e.!Ha ing!ea ned!a!BA!in!musicology!mysel ,! his!
objec i e!has!been!lying!in! he!pe iphe y!o !my!idea!o !'senso y!ancho ing'!e en!be o e!I!
s a ed!w i ing!my! hesis.!In!my!a icle,!"Music!and!D ess"!(Skjold!2010),!I!ha e! aken!a!
s ep!on! his!pa h!o !co ela ing!music!and!dance!wi h!d ess!s yles,!and!I!do!belie e! ha !
h ough!concep s!like!Tha p's!'muscle!memo y'! he e!is!a!whole!lo ! o!explo e!in! his!
a ea.!Fo !example,!how! a ious!gene a ions!a e!almos !li e ally!shaped!by!musical!
gen es,!in! e ms!o !silhoue e!and!in! e ms!o !p e e ences! ela ed! o!su ace,!ma e ials,!
imming,!accesso ies:!in! ac ,!in! e ms!o ! hei !en i e!nego ia ion!o !appea ance!and!
bodily!pe o ma i i y.!!
!
Ye !ano he !di ec ion!wi hin! his!second!pa h!would!be! o!con inue! o! uel!my!
heo e ical! amewo k!wi h!ideas! om!design! esea ch,!acco dingly!aligning!d ess!
objec s!and! he! heo ies!su ounding! hem!mo e!closely!wi h! he! emaining!a eas!o !
design,!like!p oduc !design!o !in e ac ion!design.!Th ough! his!hold,!I!would!be!
add essing! he!admoni ions!pu ! o h!by!Poyno ,!which!we e! ouched!upon!ligh ly!in! he!
in oduc ion! o!pa !III,! elling!us! ha !by!displacing!' ashion'!as!a ,!i !is!i sel !being!
displaced!and!consequen ly! emo ed! om!i s!own! amewo k!and!p o ession.!He e!I!
would!once!again!build!on! he!c i ical!capaci ies!o !design,!by!and!la ge.!In!many!ways,!
hese!c i ical!capaci ies!o !design! e lec ! hose!o !a .!Bu !design!is!no !a .!He e!I!will!
lean!up!again!on! he!c i ique!o !'design!a '!o e ed!by!Poyno ,!who!claims! ha !design!is:!
!
"..a(kind(o (a ,(al hough(I(don' (wan ( o(s ess( he(idea(because(cons an ly( alking(abou (
design(in( e ms(o (a (only( ein o ces( he(assump ion( ha (a (is( he(‘highe ’,(mo e(
signi ican (cul u al(ac i i y,(e en(i ( ha (is(no(longe ( he(case"!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(Poyno !2008:41)!
!
256!
!
I!am!pe ec ly!awa e! ha !such!an!app oach!migh !be!upse ing! o!schola s!who!pe cei e!
ashion!as!being!aligned!wi h!a .!Howe e ,!I!belie e! ha ! his!can!spawn! u he !
app oaches!such!as! he!one! aken!by!McRobbie,!who!has!desc ibed!how!' ashion!a '!
became!a!way!o !legi imising! he!whole! ield!du ing! he! ise!o !cul u al!indus ies!in! he!
New!B i ish!Economy!o ! he!1990's!(McRobbie!2000).!Acco ding! o!he ,! his!caused!
e e y hing! ha !was!associa ed!wi h! he!' ag! ade'! o!be!displaced!as!being!subo dina e,!
while!young! ashion!designe s!came! o!occupy!posi ions!as!'s a !designe s'.!I !is!exac ly!
his!con lic ! ha !Poyno !add esses.!My!agenda!does!no !include!any!u ge! o!de end!
ashion!as!being!a ,!bu ! a he ! o!posi ion! ashion!and!d ess!wi hin! he! ield!o !design,!
because!i !is!basically! om!he e! ha ! ashion!and!d ess!a e!p oduced,!p omo ed,!
dissemina ed,!and!sold.!In! his!way,! ashion!and!d ess!a e!seen!as!pa !o !a!design!
discou se! ha !s esses! he!changing!socioQeconomic!s uc u es!a ec ing! he!wo k!
p ocesses!o ! he!p o ession!and!i s!sel Qpe cep ion.!Nowadays,! his!encompasses!
nega i e!phenomena!like!swea shops,! he!loss!o !knowQhow! ela ed! o!p oducing!d essQ
wa e!in!Wes e n!coun ies,! he!b u al!exploi a ion!o !en i onmen s! o ! he!sake!o !
ob aining! aw!ma e ials,! he!exploi a ion!o ! he!wo k o ce!in!ou sou cing!coun ies,!
ex o ion!o !consume s’!sel Qes eem! h ough!s ess ul!p oduc ion!cycles,!and!a!di e!
pe spec i e! o ecas ing!a!lack!o !wa e ! o ! he!dying!o ! ab ics.!On! he!o he !hand,! he!
design!o !d ess!objec s!also!encompasses!posi i e!phenomena! ha !a ec ! he!p o ession,!
such!as!i s!in insic!capaci y! o!‘ado n!people!in!d eams’!abou ! hei ! u u e!sel es,! o!
awaken!memo ies!and! eelings,! o!p o ide!pleasu e! h ough!measu es!such!as! ac ili y!
o !smells!o !sounds,!and!qui e!simply! o!awaken!deepQsea ed!emo ions! h ough! he!
ehicle!o !i s!high!a is ic! alues!in! he!shape!o ! he!composi ion,! he!handling!o !
ma e ials,! he!elemen s!o !dedica ed!c a smanship,!o ! h ough! he!colou !pale e,!which!
exp esses!how!people! hink!and!d eam.!!
!
I !is!in! his!sense! ha !I!am!p omo ing!an!'objec 'Qbased!app oach! o! ashion!and!d ess!
esea ch!which(de i es( om( he( ield(o (design(i sel .!Th oughou ! his! hesis,!I!ha e! ied!
o!show!how! his!migh !be! ele an ,!as!pa !o !an!a emp ! o!close!a!numbe !o !
conspicuous!explana o y!gaps!in! he!gene al!unde s anding!o !d ess!p ac ice.!I !is!my!
hope! ha ! his!body!o !wo k!con ibu es!wi h!showing!a!way! o wa d.!!
!
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259!
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30. Ole Hinz
Den e ek i e o and ingslede : pilo ,
pædagog elle poli ike ?
E s udie i a bejdslede es menings il-
sk i ninge i o bindelse med ellykke
gennem ø else a ledelsesini ie ede
o and ingsp ojek e
31. Kjell-Åge Go assli
E p aksisbase pe spek i på dynami-
ske
læ ingsne e k i oppid e en
No sk ph.d., ej il salg gennem
Sam undsli e a u
32. Hen ie e Langs up Nielsen
Linking Heal hca e
An inqui y in o he changing pe o -
mances o web-based echnology o
as hma moni o ing
33. Ka in Tweddell Le insen
Vi uel Uddannelsesp aksis
Mas e i IKT og Læ ing – e cases udie
i h o dan p oak i p oceshånd e ing
kan o bed e p aksis i i uelle læ ings-
miljøe
34. Anika Li e sage
Finding a Pa h
Labou Ma ke Li e S o ies o
Immig an P o essionals
35. Kaspe Elmquis Jø gensen
S udie i samspille mellem s a og
e h e sli i Danma k unde
1. e densk ig
36. Finn Janning
A DIFFERENT STORY
Seduc ion, Conques and Disco e y
37. Pa icia Ann Placke
S a egic Managemen o he Radical
Inno a ion P ocess
Le e aging Social Capi al o Ma ke
Unce ain y Managemen
2006
1. Ch is ian Vin e gaa d
Ea ly Phases o Co po a e Ven u ing
2. Niels Rom-Poulsen
Essays in Compu a ional Finance
3. Tina B and Husman
O ganisa ional Capabili ies,
Compe i i e Ad an age & P ojec -
Based O ganisa ions
The Case o Ad e ising and C ea i e
Good P oduc ion
4. Me e Rosenk ands Johansen
P ac ice a he op
– how op manage s mobilise and use
non-financial pe o mance measu es
5. E a Pa um
Co po a e go e nance som s a egisk
kommunika ions- og ledelses æ k øj
6. Susan Aagaa d Pe e sen
Cul u e’s Influence on Pe o mance
Managemen : The Case o a Danish
Company in China
7. Thomas Nicolai Pede sen
The Discu si e Cons i u ion o O gani-
za ional Go e nance – Be ween uni y
and di e en ia ion
The Case o he go e nance o
en i onmen al isks by Wo ld Bank
en i onmen al s a
8. Cyn hia Selin
Vola ile Visions: T ansac ons in
An icipa o y Knowledge
9. Jespe Banghøj
Financial Accoun ing In o ma ion and
Compensa ion in Danish Companies
10. Mikkel Lucas O e by
S a egic Alliances in Eme ging High-
Tech Ma ke s: Wha ’s he Di e ence
and does i Ma e ?
11. Tine Aage
Ex e nal In o ma ion Acquisi ion o
Indus ial Dis ic s and he Impac o
Di e en Knowledge C ea ion Dimen-
sions

A case s udy o he Fashion and
Design B anch o he Indus ial Dis ic
o Mon ebelluna, NE I aly
12. Mikkel Fly e bom
Making he Global In o ma ion Socie y
Go e nable
On he Go e nmen ali y o Mul i-
S akeholde Ne wo ks
13. Ane e G ønning
Pe sonen bag
Tils ede æ i e-mail som in e -
ak ions o m mellem kunde og med-
a bejde i dansk o sik ingskon eks
14. Jø n Helde
One Company – One Language?
The NN-case
15. La s Bje egaa d Mikkelsen
Di e ing pe cep ions o cus ome
alue
De elopmen and applica ion o a ool
o mapping pe cep ions o cus ome
alue a bo h ends o cus ome -suppli-
e dyads in indus ial ma ke s
16. Lise G ane ud
Explo ing Lea ning
Technological lea ning wi hin small
manu ac u e s in Sou h A ica
17. Esben Rahbek Pede sen
Be ween Hopes and Reali ies:
Reflec ions on he P omises and
P ac ices o Co po a e Social
Responsibili y (CSR)
18. Ramona Samson
The Cul u al In eg a ion Model and
Eu opean T ans o ma ion.
The Case o Romania
2007
1. Jakob Ves e gaa d
Discipline in The Global Economy
Panop icism and he Pos -Washing on
Consensus
2. Heidi Lund Hansen
Spaces o lea ning and wo king
A quali a i e s udy o change o wo k,
managemen , ehicles o powe and
social p ac ices in open o fices
3. Sudhanshu Rai
Explo ing he in e nal dynamics o
so wa e de elopmen eams du ing
use analysis
A ension enabled Ins i u ionaliza ion
Model; ”Whe e p ocess becomes he
objec i e”
4. No sk ph.d.
Ej il salg gennem Sam undsli e a u
5. Se den Ozcan
EXPLORING HETEROGENEITY IN
ORGANIZATIONAL ACTIONS AND
OUTCOMES
A Beha iou al Pe spec i e
6. Kim Sund o Hald
In e -o ganiza ional Pe o mance
Measu emen and Managemen in
Ac ion
– An E hnog aphy on he Cons uc ion
o Managemen , Iden i y and
Rela ionships
7. Tobias Lindebe g
E alua i e Technologies
Quali y and he Mul iplici y o
Pe o mance
8. Me e e Wedell-Wedellsbo g
Den globale solda
Iden i e sdannelse og iden i e sledelse
i mul ina ionale mili æ e o ganisa io-
ne
9. La s F ede iksen
Open Inno a ion Business Models
Inno a ion in fi m-hos ed online use
communi ies and in e -fi m p ojec
en u es in he music indus y
– A collec ion o essays
10. Jonas Gab ielsen
Re o isk oposlæ e – a s a isk ’s ed’
il pe suasi ak i i e
11. Ch is ian Mold -Jø gensen
F a meningsløs il menings uld
e alue ing.
An endelsen a s uden e il edsheds-
målinge på de ko e og mellemlange
ide egående uddannelse se a e
psykodynamisk sys empe spek i
12. Ping Gao
Ex ending he applica ion o
ac o -ne wo k heo y
Cases o inno a ion in he ele-
communica ions indus y
13. Pe e Mejlby
F ihed og ængsel, en del a den
samme d øm?
E ph one isk base e cases udie a
igø elsens og kon ollens sam-
eksis ens i æ dibase e ledelse!
14. K is ina Bi ch
S a is ical Modelling in Ma ke ing
15. Signe Poulsen
Sense and sensibili y:
The language o emo ional appeals in
insu ance ma ke ing
16. Ande s Bje e T olle
Essays on de i a i es p icing and dyna-
mic asse alloca ion
17. Pe e Feldhü e
Empi ical S udies o Bond and C edi
Ma ke s
18. Jens Hen ik Egge Ch is ensen
De aul and Reco e y Risk Modeling
and Es ima ion
19. Ma ia The esa La sen
Academic En e p ise: A New Mission
o Uni e si ies o a Con adic ion in
Te ms?
Fou pape s on he long- e m impli-
ca ions o inc easing indus y in ol e-
men and comme cializa ion in acade-
mia
20. Mo en Wellendo
Pos implemen e ing a eknologi i den
o en lige o al ning
Analyse a en o ganisa ions kon i-
nue lige a bejde med in o ma ions-
eknologi
21. Eka e ina Mhaanna
Concep Rela ions o Te minological
P ocess Analysis
22. S e an Ring Tho bjø nsen
Fo s a e i o and ing
E s udie i o fice e s kapabili e e un-
de på i kning a om e denens o an-
d ingsp es mod øge s y ing og læ ing
23. Ch is a B eum Amhøj
De sel skab e medlemskab om ma-
nagemen s a en, dens s y ings ekno-
logie og indbygge e
24. Ka oline B omose
Be ween Technological Tu bulence and
Ope a ional S abili y
– An empi ical case s udy o co po a e
en u ing in TDC
25. Susanne Jus esen
Na iga ing he Pa adoxes o Di e si y
in Inno a ion P ac ice
– A Longi udinal s udy o six e y
di e en inno a ion p ocesses – in
p ac ice
26. Luise No ing Henle
Concep ualising success ul supply
chain pa ne ships
– Viewing supply chain pa ne ships
om an o ganisa ional cul u e pe -
spec i e
27. Ma k Mau
Kampen om ele onen
De danske ele on æsen unde den
yske besæ else 1940-45
28. Jakob Halsko
The semiau oma ic expansion o
exis ing e minological on ologies
using knowledge pa e ns disco e ed
on he WWW – an implemen a ion
and e alua ion
29. Ge gana Kole a
Eu opean Policy Ins umen s Beyond
Ne wo ks and S uc u e: The Inno a-
i e Medicines Ini ia i e
30. Ch is ian Geisle Asmussen
Global S a egy and In e na ional
Di e si y: A Double-Edged Swo d?
31. Ch is ina Holm-Pe e sen
S ol hed og o dom
Kul u - og iden i e sa bejde ed ska-
belsen a en ny sengea deling gennem
usion
32. Hans Pe e Olsen
Hyb id Go e nance o S anda dized
S a es
Causes and Con ou s o he Global
Regula ion o Go e nmen Audi ing
33. La s Bøge Sø ensen
Risk Managemen in he Supply Chain
34. Pe e Aagaa d
De unikkes dynamikke
De ins i u ionelle mulighedsbe ingel-
se bag den indi iduelle ud o skning i
p o essionel og i illig a bejde
35. Yun Mi An o ini
B and Communi y Inno a ion
An In insic Case S udy o he Adul
Fans o LEGO Communi y
36. Joachim Lynggaa d Boll
Labo Rela ed Co po a e Social Pe o -
mance in Denma k
O ganiza ional and Ins i u ional Pe -
spec i es
2008
1. F ede ik Ch is ian Vin en
Essays on P i a e Equi y
2. Jespe Clemen
Visual Influence o Packaging Design
on In-S o e Buying Decisions
3. Ma ius B os øm Kousgaa d
Tid il k ali e småling?
– S udie a ind ulle ingsp ocesse i
o bindelse med in oduk ionen a
kliniske k ali e sda abase i speciallæ-
gep aksissek o en
4. I ene Sko gaa d Smi h
Managemen Consul ing in Ac ion
Value c ea ion and ambigui y in
clien -consul an ela ions
5. Ande s Rom
Managemen accoun ing and in e-
g a ed in o ma ion sys ems
How o exploi he po en ial o ma-
nagemen accoun ing o in o ma ion
echnology
6. Ma ina Candi
Aes he ic Design as an Elemen o
Se ice Inno a ion in New Technology-
based Fi ms
7. Mo en Schnack
Teknologi og æ aglighed
– en analyse a diskussionen omk ing
ind ø else a EPJ på en hospi alsa de-
ling
8. Helene Balsle Clausen
Jun os pe o no e uel os – un es udio
sob e emig an es no eame icanos en
un pueblo mexicano
9. Lise Jus esen
Kuns en a sk i e e isions appo e .
En be e ning om o al nings e isio-
nens be e ninge
10. Michael E. Hansen
The poli ics o co po a e esponsibili y:
CSR and he go e nance o child labo
and co e labo igh s in he 1990s
11. Anne Roeps o
Holdning o handling – en e nologisk
unde søgelse a Vi ksomhede s Sociale
Ans a /CSR
12. Claus Bajlum
Essays on C edi Risk and
C edi De i a i es
13. Ande s Bojesen
The Pe o ma i e Powe o Compe en-
ce – an Inqui y in o Subjec i i y and
Social Technologies a Wo k
14. Sa u Reijonen
G een and F agile
A S udy on Ma ke s and he Na u al
En i onmen
15. Ildua a Bus a
Co po a e Go e nance in Banking
A Eu opean S udy
16. K is ian Ande s H ass
A Boolean Analysis P edic ing Indus y
Change: Inno a ion, Imi a ion & Busi-
ness Models
The Winning Hyb id: A case s udy o
isomo phism in he ai line indus y
17. T ine Paludan
De u idende og de ud iklingspa a e
Iden i e som mulighed og es ik ion
bland ab iksa bejde e på de a aylo-
ise ede ab iksgul
18. K is ian Jakobsen
Fo eign ma ke en y in ansi ion eco-
nomies: En y iming and mode choice
19. Jakob Elming
Syn ac ic eo de ing in s a is ical ma-
chine ansla ion
20. La s B ømsøe Te mansen
Regional Compu able Gene al Equili-
b ium Models o Denma k
Th ee pape s laying he ounda ion o
egional CGE models wi h agglome a-
ion cha ac e is ics
21. Mia Reinhol
The Mo i a ional Founda ions o
Knowledge Sha ing
22. F ede ikke K ogh-Meibom
The Co-E olu ion o Ins i u ions and
Technology
– A Neo-Ins i u ional Unde s anding o
Change P ocesses wi hin he Business
P ess – he Case S udy o Financial
Times
23. Pe e D. Ø be g Jensen
OFFSHORING OF ADVANCED AND
HIGH-VALUE TECHNICAL SERVICES:
ANTECEDENTS, PROCESS DYNAMICS
AND FIRMLEVEL IMPACTS
24. Pham Thi Song Hanh
Func ional Upg ading, Rela ional
Capabili y and Expo Pe o mance o
Vie namese Wood Fu ni u e P oduce s
25. Mads Vangkilde
Why wai ?
An Explo a ion o fi s -mo e ad an a-
ges among Danish e-g oce s h ough a
esou ce pe spec i e
26. Hube Buch-Hansen
Re hinking he His o y o Eu opean
Le el Me ge Con ol
A C i ical Poli ical Economy Pe spec i e
2009
1. Vi ian Lindha dsen
F om Independen Ra ings o Commu-
nal Ra ings: A S udy o CWA Ra e s’
Decision-Making Beha iou s
2. Guð ið Weihe
Public-P i a e Pa ne ships: Meaning
and P ac ice
3. Ch is Nøkken ed
Enabling Supply Ne wo ks wi h Colla-
bo a i e In o ma ion In as uc u es
An Empi ical In es iga ion o Business
Model Inno a ion in Supplie Rela ion-
ship Managemen
4. Sa a Louise Muh
Wound, In e up ed – On he Vulne -
abili y o Di e si y Managemen
5. Ch is ine Ses o
Fo b uge ad æ d i e S a s- og Li s-
o ms eo e isk pe spek i
6. Michael Pede sen
Tune in, B eakdown, and Reboo : On
he p oduc ion o he s ess-fi sel -
managing employee
7. Salla Lu z
Posi ion and Reposi ion in Ne wo ks
– Exemplified by he T ans o ma ion o
he Danish Pine Fu ni u e Manu-
ac u e s
8. Jens Fo ssbæck
Essays on ma ke discipline in
comme cial and cen al banking
9. Tine Mu phy
Sense om Silence – A Basis o O ga-
nised Ac ion
How do Sensemaking P ocesses wi h
Minimal Sha ing Rela e o he Rep o-
duc ion o O ganised Ac ion?
10. Sa a Malou S and ad
Inspi a ions o a new sociology o a :
A socioma e ial s udy o de elopmen
p ocesses in he Danish film indus y
11. Nicolaas Mou on
On he e olu ion o social scien ific
me apho s:
A cogni i e-his o ical enqui y in o he
di e gen ajec o ies o he idea ha
collec i e en i ies – s a es and socie ies,
ci ies and co po a ions – a e biological
o ganisms.
12. La s And eas Knu sen
Mobile Da a Se ices:
Shaping o use engagemen s
13. Nikolaos Theodo os Ko fia is
In o ma ion Exchange and Beha io
A Mul i-me hod Inqui y on Online
Communi ies
14. Jens Albæk
Fo es illinge om k ali e og æ aglig-
hed på sygehuse
– skabelse a o es illinge i læge- og
plejeg uppe ne angående ele ans a
nye idée om k ali e sud ikling gen-
nem olkningsp ocesse
15. Maja Lo z
The Business o Co-C ea ion – and he
Co-C ea ion o Business
16. Gi e P. Jakobsen
Na a i e Cons uc ion o Leade Iden-
i y in a Leade De elopmen P og am
Con ex
17. Do e He mansen
”Li ing he b and” som en b ando ien-
e e dialogisk p axis:
Om ud ikling a meda bejde nes
b ando ien e ede dømmek a
18. Aseem Kin a
Supply Chain (logis ics) En i onmen al
Complexi y
19. Michael Nø age
How o manage SMEs h ough he
ans o ma ion om non inno a i e o
inno a i e?
20. K is in Walle ik
Co po a e Go e nance in Family Fi ms
The No wegian Ma i ime Sec o
21. Bo Hansen Hansen
Beyond he P ocess
En iching So wa e P ocess Imp o e-
men wi h Knowledge Managemen
22. Anneme e Sko -Hansen
F anske adjek i isk afled e ad e bie ,
de age p æposi ionssyn agme ind-
led med p æposi ionen à som a gu-
men e
En alensg amma isk unde søgelse
23. Line G y Knudsen
Collabo a i e R&D Capabili ies
In Sea ch o Mic o-Founda ions

24. Ch is ian Scheue
Employe s mee employees
Essays on so ing and globaliza ion
25. Rasmus Johnsen
The G ea Heal h o Melancholy
A S udy o he Pa hologies o Pe o -
ma i i y
26. Ha Thi Van Pham
In e na ionaliza ion, Compe i i eness
Enhancemen and Expo Pe o mance
o Eme ging Ma ke Fi ms:
E idence om Vie nam
27. Hen ie e Balieu
Kon olbeg ebe s be ydning o kausa-
i al e na ionen i spansk
En kogni i - ypologisk analyse
2010
1. Yen T an
O ganizing Inno a ionin Tu bulen
Fashion Ma ke
Fou pape s on how ashion fi ms c ea-
e and app op ia e inno a ion alue
2. Ande s Raas up K is ensen
Me aphysical Labou
Flexibili y, Pe o mance and Commi -
men in Wo k-Li e Managemen
3. Ma g é Sig ún Sigu da do i
Dependen ly independen
Co-exis ence o ins i u ional logics in
he eco ded music indus y
4. Ás a Dis Óladó i
In e na ionaliza ion om a small do-
mes ic base:
An empi ical analysis o Economics and
Managemen
5. Ch is ine Seche
E-del agelse i p aksis – poli ike nes og
o al ningens medkons uk ion og
konsek ense ne he a
6. Ma ianne S ang Våland
Wha we alk abou when we alk
abou space:
End Use Pa icipa ion be ween P oces-
ses o O ganiza ional and A chi ec u al
Design
7. Rex Degnegaa d
S a egic Change Managemen
Change Managemen Challenges in
he Danish Police Re o m
8. Ul ik Schul z B ix
Væ di i ek u e ing – den sik e beslu -
ning
En p agma isk analyse a pe cep ion
og synliggø else a æ di i ek u e-
ings- og ud ælgelsesa bejde
9. Jan Ole Similä
Kon ak sledelse
Relasjonen mellom i ksomhe sledelse
og kon ak shånd e ing, belys ia fi e
no ske i ksomhe e
10. Susanne Boch Waldo
Eme ging O ganiza ions: In be ween
local ansla ion, ins i u ional logics
and discou se
11. B ian Kane
Pe o mance Talk
Nex Gene a ion Managemen o
O ganiza ional Pe o mance
12. La s Ohnemus
B and Th us : S a egic B anding and
Sha eholde Value
An Empi ical Reconcilia ion o wo
C i ical Concep s
13. Jespe Schlamo i z
Hånd e ing a usikke hed i film- og
byggep ojek e
14. Tommy Moesby-Jensen
De ak iske li s o bind lighed
Fø sok a isk in o me e , ny-a is o elisk
τ
ηθος- ænkning hos Ma in Heidegge
15. Ch is ian Fich
Two Na ions Di ided by Common
Values
F ench Na ional Habi us and he
Rejec ion o Ame ican Powe
16. Pe e Beye
P ocesse , sammenhængsk a
og fleksibili e
E empi isk cases udie a oms illings-
o løb i fi e i ksomhede
17. Adam Buchho n
Ma ke s o Good In en ions
Cons uc ing and O ganizing
Biogas Ma ke s Amid F agili y
and Con o e sy
18. Cecilie K. Moesby-Jensen
Social læ ing og ælles p aksis
E mixed me hod s udie, de belyse
læ ingskonsek ense a e lede ku sus
o e p aksis ællesskab a o en lige
mellemlede e
19. Heidi Boye
Føde a e og sundhed i sen-
mode nismen
– En indsig i hygge ænomene og
de ela e ede øde a ep aksisse
20. K is ine Munkgå d Pede sen
Flyg ige o bindelse og midle idige
mobilise inge
Om kul u el p oduk ion på Roskilde
Fes i al
21. Oli e Jacob Webe
Causes o In e company Ha mony in
Business Ma ke s – An Empi ical In e-
s iga ion om a Dyad Pe spec i e
22. Susanne Ekman
Au ho i y and Au onomy
Pa adoxes o Mode n Knowledge
Wo k
23. Ane e F ey La sen
K ali e sledelse på danske hospi ale
– Ledelse nes indflydelse på in oduk-
ion og edligeholdelse a k ali e ss a-
egie i de danske sundheds æsen
24. Toyoko Sa o
Pe o ma i i y and Discou se: Japanese
Ad e isemen s on he Aes he ic Edu-
ca ion o Desi e
25. Kenne h B inch Jensen
Iden i ying he Las Planne Sys em
Lean managemen in he cons uc ion
indus y
26. Ja ie Busque s
O ches a ing Ne wo k Beha io
o Inno a ion
27. Luke Pa ey
The Powe o Resis ance: India’s Na-
ional Oil Company and In e na ional
Ac i ism in Sudan
28. Me e Vedel
Value C ea ion in T iadic Business Rela-
ionships. In e ac ion, In e connec ion
and Posi ion
29. K is ian Tø ning
Knowledge Managemen Sys ems in
P ac ice – A Wo k Place S udy
30. Qingxin Shi
An Empi ical S udy o Thinking Aloud
Usabili y Tes ing om a Cul u al
Pe spec i e
31. Tanja Juul Ch is iansen
Co po a e blogging: Meda bejde es
kommunika i e handlek a
32. Malgo za a Ciesielska
Hyb id O ganisa ions.
A s udy o he Open Sou ce – business
se ing
33. Jens Dick-Nielsen
Th ee Essays on Co po a e Bond
Ma ke Liquidi y
34. Sab ina Speie mann
Mods andens Poli ik
Kampagnes y ing i Vel æ dss a en.
En diskussion a afikkampagne s s y-
ingspo en iale
35. Julie Uldam
Fickle Commi men . Fos e ing poli ical
engagemen in ' he fligh y wo ld o
online ac i ism’
36. Anneg e e Juul Nielsen
T a eling echnologies and
ans o ma ions in heal h ca e
37. A hu Mühlen-Schul e
O ganising De elopmen
Powe and O ganisa ional Re o m in
he Uni ed Na ions De elopmen
P og amme
38. Louise Rygaa d Jonas
B anding på bu iksgul e
E case-s udie a kul u - og iden i e s-
a bejde i K ickly
2011
1. S e an F aenkel
Key Success Fac o s o Sales Fo ce
Readiness du ing New P oduc Launch
A S udy o P oduc Launches in he
Swedish Pha maceu ical Indus y
2. Ch is ian Plesne Rossing
In e na ional T ans e P icing in Theo y
and P ac ice
3. Tobias Dam Hede
Sam alekuns og ledelsesdisciplin
– en analyse a coachingsdisku sens
genealogi og go e nmen ali y
4. Kim Pe e sson
Essays on Audi Quali y, Audi o Choi-
ce, and Equi y Valua ion
5. Hen ik Me kelsen
The expe -lay con o e sy in isk
esea ch and managemen . E ec s o
ins i u ional dis ances. S udies o isk
defini ions, pe cep ions, managemen
and communica ion
6. Simon S. To p
Employee S ock Owne ship:
E ec on S a egic Managemen and
Pe o mance
7. Mie Ha de
In e nal An eceden s o Managemen
Inno a ion
8. Ole Helby Pe e sen
Public-P i a e Pa ne ships: Policy and
Regula ion – Wi h Compa a i e and
Mul i-le el Case S udies om Denma k
and I eland
9. Mo en K ogh Pe e sen
’Good’ Ou comes. Handling Mul ipli-
ci y in Go e nmen Communica ion
10. K is ian Tangsgaa d H elplund
Alloca ion o cogni i e esou ces in
ansla ion - an eye- acking and key-
logging s udy
11. Moshe Yona any
The In e na ionaliza ion P ocess o
Digi al Se ice P o ide s
12. Anne Ves e gaa d
Dis ance and Su e ing
Humani a ian Discou se in he age o
Media iza ion
13. Tho s en Mikkelsen
Pe sonligsheds indflydelse på o e -
nings ela ione
14. Jane Thos up Jagd
H o o o sæ e usionsbølgen ud-
o e ” he ipping poin ”?
– en empi isk analyse a in o ma ion
og kogni ione om usione
15. G ego y Gimpel
Value-d i en Adop ion and Consump-
ion o Technology: Unde s anding
Technology Decision Making
16. Thomas S engade Sønde sko
Den nye mulighed
Social inno a ion i en o e ningsmæs-
sig kon eks
17. Jeppe Ch is o e sen
Dono suppo ed s a egic alliances in
de eloping coun ies
18. Vibeke Vad Baunsgaa d
Dominan Ideological Modes o
Ra ionali y: C oss unc ional
in eg a ion in he p ocess o p oduc
inno a ion
19. Th os u Ola Sigu jonsson
Go e nance Failu e and Icelands’s
Financial Collapse
20. Allan Sall Tang Ande sen
Essays on he modeling o isks in
in e es - a e and infla ion ma ke s
21. Heidi Tsche ning
Mobile De ices in Social Con ex s
22. Bi gi e Go m Hansen
Adap ing in he Knowledge Economy
La e al S a egies o Scien is s and
Those Who S udy Them
23. K is ina Vaa s Ande sen
Op imal Le els o Embeddedness
The Con ingen Value o Ne wo ked
Collabo a ion
24. Jus ine G ønbæk Po s
Noisy Managemen
A His o y o Danish School Go e ning
om 1970-2010
25. S e an Linde
Mic o- ounda ions o S a egic
En ep eneu ship
Essays on Au onomous S a egic Ac ion
26. Xin Li
Towa d an In eg a i e F amewo k o
Na ional Compe i i eness
An applica ion o China
27. Rune Tho bjø n Clausen
Væ di uld a ki ek u
E eksplo a i s udie a bygninge s
olle i i ksomhede s æ diskabelse
28. Monica Viken
Ma kedsunde søkelse som be is i
a eme ke- og ma keds ø ings e
29. Ch is ian Wymann
Ta ooing
The Economic and A is ic Cons i u ion
o a Social Phenomenon
30. Sanne F andsen
P oduc i e Incohe ence
A Case S udy o B anding and
Iden i y S uggles in a Low-P es ige
O ganiza ion
31. Mads S enbo Nielsen
Essays on Co ela ion Modelling
32. I an Häuse
Følelse og sp og
E able ing a en eksp essi ka ego i,
eksemplifice e på ussisk
33. Sebas ian Schwenen
Secu i y o Supply in Elec ici y Ma ke s
2012
1. Pe e Holm And easen
The Dynamics o P ocu emen
Managemen
- A Complexi y App oach
2. Ma in Haul ich
Da a-D i en Bi ex Dependency
Pa sing and Alignmen
3. Line Ki kegaa d
Konsulen en i den anden na
En unde søgelse a de in ense
a bejdsli
4. Tonny S enheim
Decision use ulness o goodwill
unde IFRS
5. Mo en Lind La sen
P oduk i i e , æks og el æ d
Indus i åde og e e k igs idens
Danma k 1945 - 1958
6. Pe e Be g
Ca el Damages and Cos Asymme ies
7. Lynn Kahle
Expe ien ial Discou se in Ma ke ing
A me hodical inqui y in o p ac ice
and heo y
8. Anne Roelsgaa d Obling
Managemen o Emo ions
in Accele a ed Medical Rela ionships
TITLER I ATV PH.D.-SERIEN
1992
1. Niels Ko num
Se icesamkø sel – o ganisa ion, øko-
nomi og planlægningsme ode
1995
2. Ve ne Wo m
No diske i ksomhede i Kina
Kul u specifikke in e ak ions ela ione
ed no diske i ksomhedse able inge i
Kina
1999
3. Mogens Bje e
Key Accoun Managemen o Complex
S a egic Rela ionships
An Empi ical S udy o he Fas Mo ing
Consume Goods Indus y
2000
4. Lo e Da sø
Inno a ion in he Making
In e ac ion Resea ch wi h he e oge-
neous G oups o Knowledge Wo ke s
c ea ing new Knowledge and new
Leads
2001
5. Pe e Hobol Jensen
Managing S a egic Design Iden i ies
The case o he Lego De elope Ne -
wo k
2002
6. Pe e Lohmann
The Deleuzian O he o O ganiza ional
Change – Mo ing Pe spec i es o he
Human
7. Anne Ma ie Jess Hansen
To lead om a dis ance: The dynamic
in e play be ween s a egy and s a e-
gizing – A case s udy o he s a egic
managemen p ocess
2003
8. Lo e Hen iksen
Videndeling
– om o ganisa o iske og ledelsesmæs-
sige ud o d inge ed idendeling i
p aksis
9. Niels Ch is ian Nickelsen
A angemen s o Knowing: Coo di-
na ing P ocedu es Tools and Bodies in
Indus ial P oduc ion – a case s udy o
he collec i e making o new p oduc s
2005
10. Ca s en Ø s Hansen
Kons uk ion a ledelses eknologie og
e ek i i e
TITLER I DBA PH.D.-SERIEN
2007
1. Pe e Kas up-Misi
Endea o ing o Unde s and Ma ke
O ien a ion – and he concomi an
co-mu a ion o he esea ched, he
e sea che , he esea ch i sel and he
u h
2009
1. To kild Leo Thelle sen
Fundamen al Signs and Significance
e ec s
A Semeio ic ou line o Fundamen al
Signs, Significance-e ec s, Knowledge
P ofiling and hei use in Knowledge
O ganiza ion and B anding
2. Daniel Ronzani
When Bi s Lea n o Walk Don’ Make
Them T ip. Technological Inno a ion
and he Role o Regula ion by Law
in In o ma ion Sys ems Resea ch: he
Case o Radio F equency Iden ifica ion
(RFID)
2010
1. Alexande Ca ne a
Mag en o e li e og li e som mag
S udie i den biopoli iske ambi alens