Project of Historical Textiles and Terms of Costume – Textilnet.dk

248 Susanne Le ad | P ojec o His o ical Tex iles | and Te ms o Cos ume – Tex ilne .dk P ojec o His o ical Tex iles and Te ms o Cos ume – Tex ilne .dk SUSANNE LERVAD Danish Na ional Cen e o Tex ile Resea ch, Te mplus In Denma k o e he ecen yea s we ha e been wo king on a la ge digi iza ion p ojec o his o ical ex iles and e ms o cos umes. The p ojec is called ex ilne .dk and akes place p ima ily in Den Gamle By (Open Ai Museum) in Å hus and he Cen e o Tex ile Resea ch in close co-ope a ion wi h a wo king g oup o esea che s om he en i e coun y. Mos o hem a e membe s o he academic ne wo k he Cos ume Ne wo k (www.d ag .dk) and some o he membe s a e wo king a he Danish Na ional Resea ch Founda ion’s Cen e o Tex ile Resea ch (CTR) a he Uni e si y o Copenhagen. This esea ch cen e wo ks wi h in e disciplina y analyses o he many unique Danish ex ile collec ions – especially wea ing om he B onze Age o he p esen day compa ed o ex ile inds om he Medi e anean – in pa icula epig aphic and iconog aphic ma e ials. In he Medi e anean we a ely ind emaining ex ile objec s – excep om a ew a eas in Egyp . In he ex ilne .dk p ojec we a e wo king wi h collec ions om 1600 and onwa ds a Danish museums o cul u e and design, especially he wo k o wo ex ile cu a o s – E na Lo enzen and Ellen Ande sen. We planned he wo k wi h classi ica ions and me hods o egis a ion.This i s classi ica ion model and o ganiza ion o he ield assu ed a concep ual way o digi izing he collec ions o he di e en museums. The ex ile e minology wo k in Denma k is e y in ense and CTR is hos ing wo kshops and con e ences on e minology, o ins ance in co- ope a ion wi h he TOTh Ne wo k o Te minology and On ology in F ance on he opic o he e bal and non- e bal ep esen a ion o ex ile e ms (p oceedings o hcoming) and wo con e ences on diach onic e minology wo k om he B onze age o he i s millennium AC. 249 Te minologija | 2014 | 21 The i s book o p oceedings Tex ile e minologies in he Ancien Nea Eas and Medi e anean om he Thi d o he Fi s Millennia BC (by Cécile Michel and Ma ie-Louise Nosch (eds.), Oxbow Books, Ox o d, 2010, ISBN 978-1-84217-975-8) is he bes selle o ou cen e and sold ou as ha dback book – and now only a ailable as a pape back. I is an o e whelming success o a di icul book on a complex opic. Ma ie-Louise Nosch, Di ec o o he Cen e o Tex ile Resea ch, and I ha e oge he o his ne wo k se ies TOTh p oceedings 2011 w i en abou Ve bal and non- e bal con igu a ions o ex iles – a diach onic s udy. O he ac i i ies on e minology a e mas e classes o applican s o EU Ma ie Cu ie Fellowships, and we ha e a ine success a e on he applica ions. A he momen he cen e has nine ou s anding in e na ional Ma ie Cu ie ellows and many o hem a e wo king wi h e minology. These schola s a e o ins ance Ma eo Vigo, Miguel Angel And és- Toledo, and Sal a o e Gaspa and hey ha e all published a icles on he opic in CTR’s nume ous publica ions – pa icula ly in he bes selle Tex ile Te minologies om 2010. Ma eo Vigo has w i en in he bes selle abou he e minology o linen Linen in Hi i e In en o y Tex s and Miguel Angel And és-Toldeo has w i en he con ibu ion Some conside a ions abou Vedic, A es an and Indo- I anian Tex ile Te minology and inally Sal a o e Gaspa has ecen ly w i en abou The language o ex iles: ex iles in (non) e bal communica ion in Ancien Mesopo amia. O e he nex yea s he CTR will be wo king on mo e angles o e minology. You can ead mo e abou he con e ence a c .hum.ku.dk unde “Con e ences”. And a sequel o Tex ile Te minologiesin he Ancien Nea Eas and Medi e anean om he 1s o he 1s millennia B.C. is scheduled o elease in 2015. Bu back o ex ilne .dk.In he i s place a wo king g oup om he Cos ume Ne wo k unde he Agency o Cul u e, spen some ime on designing he s uc u e o he wo k and collec ing he a ious ways o egis a ion om bo h design and cul u e museums in Denma k (e.g. Den Gamle By (Open Ai Museum), Design Museum Denma k and The Na ional Museum o Denma k). This p ojec esul ed in a classi ica ion, which o med he basis o wo king wi h mo e e m bases in he ool “Te mplus Manage ”. 250 Susanne Le ad | P ojec o His o ical Tex iles | and Te ms o Cos ume – Tex ilne .dk Ca ego ies: - ma e ials, - ex iles, - p oduc ion echniques, - cos umes and hei di e en pa s, - concep s o deco a ions and he deco a ion echniques, - concep s o dyes and dye echniques and - s yle. This wo k is documen ed in he No d e m p oceedings om 2009 published on he websi e FORVIR - blogs.cbs.dk/ o i –a knowledge o um o modelling in he public sec o . Since 2004 he wo king g oup o ex ilne .dk has been wo king owa ds he goal now ealized on he basis o gene ous unding and a 1,1 DKK million g an om he Danish Agency o Cul u e. Two employees om Den Gamle By (Open Ai Museum) a e e iewing wo ds and de ini ions om collec ion indexes o well-known ex ile esea che s. I is all se up in a o ma c ea ed by he wo king g oup. We no e he language o each e m, o mula e a sho de ini ion and p o ide a ho ough explana ion as well as meaning ul quo es. In addi ion o his we also men ion he pe iodas e ms change meaning o e ime. Fo each concep and he e m o look up, he e is a sec ion on sou ces. The da abase uses MediaWiki, which is widely used and he e o e known by u u e use s - and almos mos impo an ly in his con ex - will be upda ed. HOLBERG, DIARIES, OLD LETTERS AND OTHER TExTS: Bu why should we digi ize ex ile e ms? Isn’ i comple ely i ele an wha Holbe g belie ed in his ex s om he 1700’s, o example, in an epis le o “ha nieskensskiø e ”? Wi h hese wo ds om he p ojec To e Ma hiassen om Den Gamle By (Open Ai Museum): “Does his mean ha women in he mid 1700’s was d essed in a kind o a mou ? You see Amazons wi h shield and swo d in his mind’s eye. Bu no, i ’s no wha Holbe g’s i onic commen abou he ho es ashion is all abou . I ’s abou unde wea . Abou he kind o unde wea ha ans o ms he body, so you canno see a woman’s legs. In he mid-1700s i was mode n wi h wide pe icoa s s i ened wi h o al ings, o example, he lexible ma e ial: baleen. Ski s o med a kind o en on he lowe body, and he majes ic silk ab ics in he d esses we e li ed and shaped by he pe icoa . 251 Te minologija | 2014 | 21 Wo king wi h ex ilne .dk oo ed in he belie ha wo ds a e a he i age ha mus be p ese ed o pos e i y, so ha u u e gene a ions can also be amused by Holbe g’s sense o humou o unde s and ancien ex s abou hei own amily and e e y hing else conce ning his o ical cos ume and ex ile e ms.” And u he mo e she adds: “…pa o my daily wo k as a cu a o is o answe ques ions. I o en ge ques ions abou he signi icance o a ious ex ile and cos ume e ms om genealogis s, w i e s and o he museum p o essionals, li e a y his o ians and all po en ially in e es ed. Digi iza ion is cu en ly a e y e ec i e way o sha e knowledge wi h many people and no jus hose who ask di ec ly. Digi iza ion can open o he inclusion o knowledge”. VARIATION Headwo ds in ex ilne .dk a e lined up wi h hei di e en a ia ions. The e may be many spellings o he same e m o e ms o he same ab ic. An example o en ies in he e m base is ‘ abby o plain wea e’ (in Danish:læ ed). This e e ence will ha e wo en ies, as he e a e wo di e en concep s - ela ing o he binding and o he p oduc . The e will also be a diag am o o he image o ep esen he concep non- e bally, and o show how adesign is made in such a way as o a oid con usion ac oss language bounda ies. The mos challenging pa o ou wo k has been o include all a ia ions o ma e ial. Se e al o he concep s a e associa ed wi h 8-10 a ian s and i has been di icul o con ol such a ie y, bu his is he esul o he ex ensi e ade and exchange o ex iles (ex. Biele elde læ ed, A aslæ ed, K e elde læ ed e c.). Ano he example o a ia ion is he ibe Abaka, wi h he ollowing a ia ions in ex ilne .dk: Abaka, abaca, abacca, abaca mendohamp, siamhamp and banan æ le . O he examples o a ia ion ake in o accoun he his o ical de elopmen as ‘gi a usse ’ ha became ‘gamache ’ (e.g.‘gai e ’) and ‘leggings’. He e a e h ee di e en e ms ha co e oughly he same concep bu a di e en pe iods o ime. I has been di icul o iden i y he sou ce ma e ial and e e ence books, bu now we ha e p o ided sou ces and a de ailed e e ence a he end o each en y. 252 Susanne Le ad | P ojec o His o ical Tex iles | and Te ms o Cos ume – Tex ilne .dk Cu en ly we ha e only a demo/p o o ype o he e mwiki, bu hope o unding o make a pe manen and ull scale e mwiki soon. PICTURES AND WORDS ARE LINKED Imagesand o he non- e bal means o communica ion help us o unde s and hings be e and ex ilne .dk wo ks wi h double digi iza ion, o example by scanning he slides o ex ile samples eco ded in Danish a chi es and museums by MA (Mas e o A ) Ingebo g Cock Clausen in he 1980’s. Some o he pic u es we e published he in he book Tex ile Samples om Danish A chi es and Museums, 1750-1975, published a “Bo gen” in 1987, bu many o he pic u es ha e no been published be o e. In ex ilne .dk many di e en ex ile e ms a e collec ed. By now we al eady ha e con ac wi h esea che s om many coun ies such as England, F ance, India and No way. The wo king g oup o ex ilne .dk also co- ope a es wi h he Danish Language Council and Cen e o Language Technology, Uni e si y o Copenhagen and hei DanNe p ojec , a esea ch- and de elopmen p ojec conce ned wi h he de elopmen o a Danish lexical seman ic wo d ne and a ine isual p esen a ion pla o m (cs .hum.ku.dk). MORE INFORMATION: The digi izing p ocess is based on he ma e ial o he wo well-known and e y impo an Danish ex ile esea che s: • E na Lo enzen whose handw i en iles we scan in he ex ilne .dk was a cu a o o Den Gamle By (Open Ai Museum) om 1959- 1979 and she had DPhil. on he hesis People’s Clo hing in and a ound Aa hus in 1975. I can be pu chased in he shop in Den Gamle By (Open Ai Museum).Read abou E na Lo enzen: k in . DK./side/1597/BIO/336/o igin/70. • Ellen Ande sen who was a cu a o a he Na ional Museum o Denma k and published se e al olumes in he se ies Danish Cos umes. The Fashion in Denma k. Read abou Ellen Ande sen: www/KVINFO/page/597/bio/336/o igin/170. Link o he Cos ume ne wo k’s websi e: www.d ag puljen.dk h p://c .hum.ku.dk 253 Te minologija | 2014 | 21 ead mo e abou ex iLne .dk: h p://www.d ag .dk/o dda abase h p://c .hum.ku.dk/o he p ojec s/danishcos umeg oup/ h p://www.k is elig -dagblad.dk/a ikel/422666%3aDanma k–H ad-be yde -aal-i-s oempe ne h p://www.d ag .dk/asse s/PDF- ile /SyddanskUni e si e 20no 2008PUB.pd No d e m P oceedings 2009, Copenhagen: Es ablishing a e m base o cos ume and ex ile concep s by Susan- ne Le ad (www. o i .dk) Du y P., Le ad S., Nosch M.L. Ve bal and non- e bal con igu a ions o ex iles – a diach onic s udy in TOTh p oceedings 2011, Annecy. Gau a 2014-07-05 Susanne Le ad Danish Na ional Cen e o Tex ile Resea ch, Te mplus F uebje g ej 3, 2100 Copenhagen, Denma k E-mail: sl@ e mplus.dk