Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai

doi.org/10.35321/term27-07 New Names for Trousers AUŠRA RIMKUTĖ-GANUSAUSKIENĖ Institute of the Lithuanian Language ANNOTATION The article examines a small semantic group of clothing terms—new names for trousers. The research material is drawn from the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms (hereafter, the Neologism Database). The aim of the article is to discuss the origins and semantics of new names for trousers, drawing on material from this source. Since contemporary clothing terminology has not been studied, it is hoped that the material presented here will be of interest and use. KEYWORDS: clothing, names for trousers, clothing term, loanword, neologism ABSTRACT The article addresses a small semantic group of the terms of clothing – the new names of trousers or pants. The research material comes from the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms. The aim of the article is to discuss the origin and semantics of the new names of trousers or pants based on the material of the above source. Whereas the present-day terminology of clothing is largely unresearched, the summarised material is expected to be interesting and useful. KEYWORDS: clothing, names of trousers or pants, term of clothing, borrowing, neologism FEATURES AND SEARCH OF THE RESEARCH MATERIAL New single-word and compound terms continually emerge in the terminology of every field. Over time, their form and content change. Clothing terminology is no exception. The subject of this article is the new names for trousers recorded in the electronic Neologism Database1. After conducting a computer-based2 1 For more information about the database and its resources, see the articles by Rita Miliūnaitė (Miliūnaitė 2012a: 3–11; Miliūnaitė 2015: 161–184; Miliūnaitė 2018: 1–21), Agnė Aleksaitė (Aleksaitė 2018: 1–2; Aleksaitė 2019: 1–27), Daiva Murmulaitytė (Murmulaitytė 2016a: 1–27; Murmulaitytė 2016b: 68–88), and others. 2 The Neologism Database considers words absent from its reference dictionaries to be neologisms: the electronic edition of the 6th edition of the Dictionary of Contemporary Lithuanian, the online Dictionary of the Lithuanian Language, and the Dictionary of International Words published in 2001 (see also http://naujažodziai.lki.lt/?Apie_duomenyna). This understanding is also adopted in this article. 164 Aušra Rimkutė-Gan ausauskienė | Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai a search using the following parameters: part of speech – noun, definition – trousers, area of use – lifestyle (style); a total of 21 names were found: aptemptukai, aptemptukės, cigaretės, činai, činas, denimai, glaudinis, kapriai, kelninės, kiulotai, kojakelnės, kulotės, lenarai, obtiažkės, sijonkel­nės, šalvarai, tampkel­nės, tamprės, timpos, tiškel­nės, tregingsai. As can be seen, not all the words found are used to describe trousers: činas means ‘fabric’, while kojakelnės means ‘tights’. It was therefore decided to verify the results by reviewing all the headwords in the database3. Four more names for trousers were found: džegingsai, megingsai, tampdžinsiai and timpdžinsiai. The computer search described above did not retrieve these names because they are defined using the word tamprės. Thus, this article examines a total of 23 new names for trousers—neologisms4 or words that have acquired new meanings. The aim of the article is to discuss the origins and semantics of new names for trousers, drawing on material from the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms. To achieve this aim, the following tasks are set: 1) to compile an inventory of new names for trousers; 2) to determine the possible circumstances in which neologisms in this small semantic group arose—whether a new garment name emerged by analogy with other languages, was coined using the word-formation devices of Lithuanian, or perhaps an existing word in the language came to be used with a new meaning, and so on; 3) to establish the proportions of names of Lithuanian, non-Lithuanian, and mixed origin; 4) to examine the semantics of new names for trousers. The collected material is analyzed using descriptive, analytical, interpretive, and quantitative methods. The new names for trousers found in the electronic database are discussed in the article in groups according to origin. Each subsection examines them in greater detail: they are listed on separate lines in uppercase alphabetical order and set in spaced type; a definition from the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms is provided (in specific cases, the definition is supplemented with descriptions found in terminological dictionaries or other sources), and their formation and origin are discussed more extensively. To explore the semantics of the new names for trousers, information and examples of usage are sought in books on clothing and fashion. Quantitative data are summarized in a chart. 3 As of December 20, 2019, the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms had accumulated a headword list of as many as 5,400 neologisms (http://naujažodziai.lki.lt/?Apie_duomenyną) [accessed 2020-04-01]. 4 A neologism is “any newly emerged linguistic unit” (Kvašytė 2005: 41; see also KTŽ 1990: 133; Urbutis 2009: 36–37; Jakaitienė 2010: 205; Girčienė 2011: 165), whereas a coinage is “only a new word that has arisen through word formation” (LKE 1999: 429). Thus, the term coinage is narrower than neologism. Terminologija | 2020 | 27 165 FEATURES OF THE WORD TROUSERS Before beginning to examine contemporary names for trousers, it is worth recalling the meaning of the word kelnės. As linguist Danutė Sabaliauskaitė writes in her article “Lithuanian Names for Trousers,” drawing on the work of German linguists Hermann Hirt and Otto Schrader5, trousers “became widespread somewhat later than the belt, hat, coat, skirt, or apron” (Sabaliauskaitė 1996: 167): “Indeed, trousers originated from the apron (Schrader 1917: 592). As throughout Eastern Europe, they have been worn in Lithuania since ancient times. This is also confirmed by archaeological finds dating from the 9th–12th centuries (Volkaitė-Kulikauskienė 1970: 130; Atlas 1986: 107). Since trousers were one of the main components of men’s clothing, there are quite a number of names for them in Lithuanian” (Sabaliauskaitė 1996: 167). Lithuanian costume historian and designer Rūta Guzevičiūtė states that “trousers, as a specific item of clothing, arose from the need to protect the legs from chafing while riding” (Guzevičiūtė 2002: 16). In Lithuanian, the forms kelnės, kėlinės (an older form), and kėlnės of the word, as D. Sabaliauskaitė notes in her article, were first recorded in sources from the early 17th century (Sabaliauskaitė 1996: 167). Both forms are also found in many 18th- and 19th-century dictionaries (for more detail, see LKEŽ). Algirdas Sabaliauskas considers the word kelnės to be unique to Lithuanian (Sabaliauskas 1990: 206). In Stanislovas Algimantas Ratautas, Eugenija Strazdienė, and Ada Gulbinienė’s Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms (hereafter AATŽ), trousers are defined as “a garment covering the lower part of the torso and the legs, held on the body by a waistband fastened with buttons or suspenders, tightened with elastic, or secured with a belt” (AATŽ 2014: 187). The authors give the following equivalents in other languages: English pantaloon, pants, trousers, French pantalon, Russian штаны, брюки, and German Hose. A somewhat shorter definition is given in the Explanatory Dictionary of Textile Terms, with equivalents in German, English, French, and Russian (hereafter ATTŽ): “A garment for the lower body, with long legs for each leg” (ATTŽ 2001: 89). There are various types of trousers. According to their purpose, the material from which the garment is made, its weave, cut, or a feature or detail that distinguishes it from other models—for example, color, fabric pattern, shape, length, waistband, and so on—they can be divided into smaller semantic groups, such as underwear bottoms, swimming trunks, baby trousers, shorts, sports trousers, and so on. The names for trousers found in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms belong to smaller semantic 5 Now – Liutkevičienė. 166 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai Fig. 1. Distribution of new names for trousers by origin,% groups are not further subdivided because, first, there are few of these names and, second, such a classification seems inaccurate. However, the names found are divided by origin into Lithuanian, non-Lithuanian, and mixed-origin forms. As can be seen in Figure 1, non-Lithuanian names for trousers predominate—they account for more than half of the neologisms examined (52%). Nearly two-fifths of the names are Lithuanian (39%), while about one-tenth (9%) contain both Lithuanian and non-Lithuanian components. NAMES OF LITHUANIAN ORIGIN In total, the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms contains 9 single-word names for trousers of Lithuanian origin: aptemptukai, aptemptukės, glaudinės, kelininės, sijonkel­nės, tampkel­nės, tamprės, timpos, tiškel­nės. As the examples show, some of them are similar in formation; only the name glaudinės stands out—it is used with a new meaning not mentioned in dictionaries. APTEMPTUKAI. A derivative with the suffix –ukai, cf. DŽ aptemptas, defined in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms as follows: “long (down to the feet) tight-fitting trousers made of thin fabric, often worn under a skirt, dress, or other longer outer garment”; cf. Russian обтяжки, English leggings 1. “stretch pants, tights”; 2. “leggings; leg warmers” (ALLAKŽ 2001: 209)6. Thus, the word aptemptukai 6 Cf. 1. “leggings”; 2. “leg warmers” (Anglonas 2005). Terminologija | 2020 | 27 167 an attempt is made to single out one important feature of these trousers—they stretch tightly and fit snugly around the legs. The Database of Lithuanian Neologisms editors note that instead of this name for trousers, “other variants have become established in standard usage—tamprės and timpos.” For this very reason, this terminological coinage7 is entirely unnecessary in clothing terminology. The Dictionary of the Lithuanian Language (hereafter LKŽe), the Dictionary of Contemporary Lithuanian (hereafter DŽ), and the Dictionary of Standard Lithuanian (hereafter BŽ) do not include the word aptemptukai. A P T E M P T U K Ė S. A derivative with the suffix -ukės, cf. DŽ aptemptas, is defined in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms in the same way as aptemptukai. This shows that these neologisms are identical in meaning. The new name for trousers aptemptukės, like aptemptukai, apparently arose through translation; cf. Russian обтяжки, and English leggings. The Corpus of Contemporary Lithuanian (hereafter DLKT) gives one instance of the word aptemptukės, while more examples of its use can be found using the Google search engine. The word is absent from LKŽe, DŽ, and BŽ. The coinage aptemptukės, like aptemptukai, is unlikely to become generally used; therefore, it should not even be considered a clothing term—the name is current only in a particular context, in this case primarily in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms, as well as in online media, some online shops, and internet chat sites. G L A U D I N Ė S. This feminine plural noun is generally used in the sense of “glaudžiai” (tight-fitting briefs), that is, “short swimming or sports pants.” The Database of Lithuanian Neologisms explains the word glaudinės as follows: “long, close-fitting, often knitted, jersey trousers”; cf. English tights, “tricot (tight-fitting trousers)” (Anglonas 2005). According to LKŽe, this word was first used in the sense of “glaudžiai” in 1937 in the newspaper Gimtosios kalbos8. In the newspaper’s Klausimų kraitelės column, readers asked whether the word plauktinukas, “Badehose, трусик,” was correct and acceptable: “Plauktinūkas is a neologism, apparently formed on the model of megztinūko and other such forms, but it is not very successful in terms of word formation. After all, megztinis is a k n i t garment, whereas *plauktinis (from which plauk-tinūkas is derived) is surely not s w u m. We consider glaudinės (understand: trou- 7 The linguist Juozas Pikčilingis uses the term terminological neologism (Pikčilingis 1975: 156). 8 VLEe states that Gimtoji kalba is “a monthly journal of standard Lithuanian. It was published in Kaunas from 1933 to 1941, in Chicago from 1958 to 1968, and has been published in Vilnius since 1990. Initially published by a group of language enthusiasts; from 1935 to 1937, as a publication of the Lithuanian Language Society, by the Sakalas company; from 1938 to 1941 and from 1990 to 1996 by the Lithuanian Language Society; from 1958 to 1968 by the Cultural Foundation of the Lithuanian Community of the United States; from 1996 to 2000 by the Gimtoji kalba company; since 2000 published by the Science and Encyclopaedia Publishing Centre.” The journal was edited in 1936–1937 by the linguist Leonardas Dambriūnas (surname Dambruskas until 1945). 168 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai ... (naitės) or briefs, which are also found in V. Kamantauskas’s “Let Us Speak Lithuanian” (KK 1937: 137–138). The word glaudinės does not appear in DŽ or BŽ. The word glaudinės is recommended in the sense of ‘trousers’ in Juozas Prūčinauskas’s Aprangos žodynas, published in 20029; cf. English anchored pant, trousers with footstraps, German Steghose, French pantalon à sous pied, Russian рейтузы (AŽ 2002: 37). The term discussed in the Sporto terminų žodynas10, compiled by Stanislovas Stonkus (English tights, German Sporthose, Russian рейтузы), is defined as follows: “Sports trousers of various lengths, fitting closely to the body. Δ protects the athlete from injuries and keeps them warm” (STŽ 2002: 172). Tiek 2005, tiek 2013 m. išėjusiose Kalbos patarimų knygose, skirtose skoliniams, nauja reikšme žodį glaudinės siūloma vartoti vietoj skolinio iš rusų kalbos raitūzai arba reitūzai (KP L1 2005: 95, 96; 2013: 52, 53). Terminas glaudinės pateikiamas ir AATŽ. Čia jis suprantamas kaip „juosmenį siekiančios, glaudžiai prigludusios moteriškos apatinės kelnaitės su įvairaus ilgio tiesiomis klešnėmis“ (AATŽ 2014: 152), plg. angl. knickers, rus. дамские панталоны. The New Words Database states that the word glaudinės should be used instead of the foreignism raitūzai (reitūzai); cf. Russian рейтузы11, German Reithosen. The 1992 publication Terminologijos taisymai contains the following entries: raitūzai see r e i – t ū z a i12 (TT 1992: 89), reitūzai foreign word (=glaudinės) retail, sports (TT 1991: 90). The Russian–Lithuanian Goods Dictionary says that Russian рейтузы is a knitted garment: “1. riding breeches, tight-fitting trousers; 2. tights” (RLKPŽ 1996: 381); cf. tight-fitting trousers (RLKPŽ 1996: 610). In Genovaitė Irtmonienė and Jonas Šukys’s Language Advice for Physical Education and Sports Specialists, published in 2000, the foreignism reitūzai is replaced by the word glaudinės (Irtmonienė, Šukys 2000: 82)13. 9 The language and terminology consultant for this dictionary is Dr. Jonas Klimavičius. 10 The dictionary was reviewed by the terminologist Dr. J. Klimavičius. 11 Russian–Lithuanian dictionaries give the following meanings: 1. “riding breeches; 2. Reitūzai (knitted trousers)” (RLKŽ 1949: 439); cf. “1. riding trousers; 2. gaiter-style trousers, briefs (for women and children)” (RLKŽ 1984: 641). 12 Given as in the publication. 13 The Russian-language Clothing Terms Dictionary gives three meanings for the term reitūzai: 1. Long, knitted, narrow trousers that fit tightly around the body (originally designed for riding). 2. Long knitted tight-fitting trousers for women or children, reaching to the ankles. 3. Short knitted garments for women or children—underwear, the same as the trousers described in meaning 2. The Russian word is derived from German Reithosen (see http://www.moda-dic.ru/html/r/reytuz3.html [accessed 2020-04-16]). Terminologija | 2020 | 27 169 This word is also found in LKŽe. It is used in our language with as many as four meanings: 1. “curled decorations, ornament”; 2. “red lily”; 3. “a climbing garden plant whose flowers resemble a lily”; and 4. “a coat without tails.” As can be seen, the last meaning is related to clothing. To sum up, it can be argued that the ‘trousers’ meaning of the neologism glaudinės arose as a result of language standardization and terminology management. It is already used in clothing terminology and therefore should not sink into oblivion. TROUSER-SKIRTS. A derivative formed with the suffix -inės, cf. DŽ kelnės ‘a garment worn on the waist and legs’. This new name for trousers was recorded in 2015 by linguist Agnė Aleksaitė. It is defined as “tight-fitting trousers made of stretch fabric; a combination of leggings and trousers”. The neologism is used instead of English treggings14, cf. German Treggings. In the online slang dictionary Urban Dictionary, the English word is used to refer to very tight-fitting trousers, or to military trousers that are fairly tight and look like leggings. Thus, it could be considered a situational15 neologism, coined to name a new garment. The Google search engine found only a few instances of the name for the trousers under discussion. Thus, it has not become widespread in general usage. This is probably also due to the fact that derivatives with the suffix -inės are rather rare, especially in clothing terminology; cf. ausinės, glaudinės, įkapinės, etc. The term kelininės does not appear in dictionaries of clothing terminology. Nor does it appear in LKŽe, DŽ, or BŽ. The note by the compilers of the Naujažodžių duomenyno is interesting: the word kelininės was “created (used) by émigrés”. It is clear that this Lithuanian-origin term will not take hold in clothing terminology because its motivation is erroneous and imprecise: it does not reveal the essential feature of these trousers—their stretchiness. SKIRT-TRousers. As stated in the Naujažodžių duomenyne, these are “wide trousers resembling a skirt, often covering only the knees (usually worn by women)”. The glossary at the end of the book Mada. Nuo pirmykščių laikų iki šių dienų states that sijonkelnės are “a women’s garment that looks like a skirt but serves the function of trousers. Initially worn when riding horses or bicycles” (M 2015: 456). The name Collins English Dictionary states that English treggings is derived from trousers ‘trousers’ and leggings ‘leggings, leg warmers’ (CED). 14 Situational neologism – a neologism that is accidental and individual, deliberately coined through unusual word formation or according to an unproductive word-formation pattern, without regard to the meaning of the formation (VLEe, cf. Urbutis 2009: 323–324; Jakaitienė 2010: 207). In linguists’ articles it is also referred to as an expressive, optional, occasional, stylistic, authorial, nonce, etc. neologism. 15 Situational neologism – a neologism that is accidental and individual, deliberately coined through unusual word formation or according to an unproductive word-formation pattern, without regard to the meaning of the formation (VLEe, cf. Urbutis 2009: 323–324; Jakaitienė 2010: 207). In linguists’ articles it is also referred to as an expressive, optional, occasional, stylistic, authorial, nonce, etc. neologism. 170 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai It most likely arose through translation; cf. English culottes 1. “skirt trousers” and 2. “hist. culottes” (Anglonas 2005). Thus, it is a compound of the words sijonas “usually a woman’s garment worn from the waist down” and kelnės. The Russian–Lithuanian Dictionary of Goods lists the name sijonas-kelnės, cf. Russian юбка-брюки (RLKPŽ 1996: 537, 687). There are not many words with the element -kelnės; for example, LKŽe lists kerš-kelnės, plačkelnės, puskelnės, trumpkelnės, while DLKT lists plačkelnės, sauskel­nės, sijonkel­nės16, sportkelnės. AATŽ contains more such formations: batkelnės, moka-sinkelnės, pėdkelnės, plačkelnės, sauskel­nės and sijonkelnės. Sijonkelnės are defined in this dictionary as women’s trousers that look like a skirt (AATŽ 2014: 362). ATTŽ gives a similar definition, adding that they are short trousers with very wide legs (ATTŽ 2001: 289). Both terminology dictionaries give the following English equivalents for this term: divided skirt and trouser skirt. The word sijonkelnės is included in the BŽ headword list. From what has been said, it can be concluded that the terminological neologism sijonkelnės is correct, motivated, convenient to use, and systematic; it has therefore found a place among clothing terms and is used fairly widely. S T R E T C H T R O U S E R S. A compound of the words tampus “which stretches, extends” and kelnės, formed, like the Lithuanian name kel­ninės, in place of the foreignism tregingsai (English treggings), which denotes a combination of leggings and trousers. The State Commission of the Lithuanian Language (hereafter VLKK), in its Consultation Bank, recommends using the name tampkelnės in place of the mixed-origin name strečo kelnės (cf. English stretch pants). This name is not found in AATŽ, LKŽe, DŽ, or BŽ. S T R E T C H L E G G I N G S. A derivative formed with the ending –ės, cf. DŽ tamprus “1. firm, elastic.” This motivated name denotes the essential feature of the trousers—their stretchiness. The name appears in AATŽ, published in 2014. The Lithuanian derivative is recommended in place of English leggings or leggings trousers. It denotes “lower- or upper-body trousers of varying lengths made of stretch fabric, usually worn by women and children, often containing elastane and worn for spor-17 16 The name sijonkelnės is also recorded in the CORPUS database. 17 The word glaudės is derived according to the same word-formation pattern; cf. DŽ glaudus “1. close, near.” However, unlike tamprės, this name was coined by taking a feature of the trousers as apparently not their primary characteristic. In a 1979 article, “Suffixal Formation of Lithuanian Terms,” the linguist Stasys Keinys wrote perceptively about such cases: “Clarity and precision of motivation can help a term take root or hinder it. For no fewer than four decades now, linguists have been introducing the substitute for ‘underpants,’ glaudės, into literary usage. During that time many neologisms have become firmly established in the language, whereas glaudės has still not caught on, although it is a short and fluent word. Could it be that the unusualness of its formation and the lack of differentiation in its motivation are to blame?” (Keinys 2005: 105). Terminologija | 2020 | 27 171 tuojant ar laisvalaikiu“ (AATŽ 2014: 410)18. Šis kelnių pavadinimas yra ne tik Naujažodžių duomenyne, kur apibrėžiamas taip: „plono tampraus audinio aptemptos kelnės, dažnai nešiojamos po ilga palaidine, suknele, sijonu ar kitu ilgesniu viršutiniu drabužiu“. Jį vietoj skolinio obtiažkės (rus. обтяжки) siūloma vartoti Kalbos patarimuose (KP L1 2005: 83), taip pat J. Pričinausko Aprangos žodyne (AŽ 2002: 117). Naujažodis tamprės „aptemptų moteriškų megztų arba siūtų iš tampraus audinio kelnių“ reikšmė pateikiamas ir elektroniniame DŽ variante19. Naujųjų skolinių duomenų bazėje fiksuojamas skolinys leginsai „aptemptos kelnės be pėdų“ (kitos formos: legginsai, leggings), pateikiami ir atitikmenys: blauzdinės, timpės, timpos, tamprės, aptemptukės (NSDB20). Įdomių vartosenos atvejų randame internetinės parduotuvės www.stilano.lt svetainėje: „Leginsai21 ir tamprės“, „Mūsų asortimente rasite įvairių stilių ir spalvų leginsų ir tamprių. Moteriški leginsai yra universali aprangos detalė, kuri yra būtina kiekvienos moters garderobe ir jų turi būti ne vieni!“, „Šiandien jau vis daugiau moterų žino, kad leginsai ir tamprės internetu yra šiuolaikiškų moterų teisingas pasirinkimas“22 ir kt. Tokie pavyzdžiai rodo, kad jų autorius skolinį ir lietuvišką jo atitikmenį suvokia kaip žodžius dviem skirtingiems kelnių tipams apibūdinti. Todėl norėtųsi atkreipti dėmesį, kad žodis tamprės laikomas pagrindiniu norminiu variantu ir yra vartojamas vietoj skolinio. Akademiniame LKŽe šio nepriekaištingai sudaryto naujadaro nerasime. Jis įtrauktas į BŽ antraštyną. T I G H T S. A derivative with the ending –os23, cf. stretch band, “1. a rubber strip, tube, cord.” This name for tight-fitting trousers made of thin, stretch fabric is used synonymously with the previously discussed name stretch pants; cf. AATŽ “tights nonstandard =s t r e t c h p a n t s” (AATŽ 2014: 418). In the language guides for physical education and sports specialists published by G. Irtmonienė and J. Šukys, Language Advice for Physical Education and Sports Specialists, this word is recommended instead of leggings, although preference is given to the word stretch pants. 18 Agnė Gilytė defines tampres as follows: “narrow trousers made of knitwear or another stretch fabric, similar to tights but usually opaque and without feet” (Gilytė 2015: 237). As this definition shows, the stylist emphasizes the fabric from which the garment is made, as well as the fact that it has no feet. 19 See http://lkiis.lki.lt/dabartinis [accessed 2020-08-18]. 20 See http://nsdb.sociolingvistika.lt/zodziai.htm?zodis=leginsai&id=33 [accessed 2020-04-15]. 21 Here and in the examples that follow, emphasis was added by the author. 22 See https://stilano.lt/drabuziai-moterims-leginsai-ir-tampres [accessed 2020-07-01]. 23 The word-formation scholar Vincas Urbutis has written that “there are at least as many nouns formed by inflectional endings in present-day Lithuanian as compounds, and far more than nouns formed with suffixes” (Urbutis 1961: 28). 172 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai In the glossary of the book Fashion: From Prehistoric Times to the Present Day, the term timpos is explained as follows: “Elastic inserts that make a garment fit snugly around the hips and flare toward the bottom” (M 2015: 460). The DLKT records 33 instances of the word timpos in use, while CORPUS records 38. The name timpos is regarded as a secondary variant of the norm. The word timpos is not found in LKŽe, DŽ, or BŽ. The form timpos is not found in the VLKK Consultation Bank either. Instead, alongside the word tamprės, it gives the form timpės24. Thus, the names timpos and tamprės are synonyms that arose as a result of terminology standardization. Since the name tamprės is more widespread, it may be assumed that it will become even more firmly established in usage over time. TĮSKELNĖS. A compound of the verb tįsti, meaning 1. “to stretch, drag,” 2. “to lengthen,” and the noun kelnes. This Lithuanian name for trousers, with a pejorative meaning, denotes “baggy or easily stretched (track) trousers.” Although the motivation for the coinage is clear, it has not spread into wider usage, and it is not found in terminology dictionaries either. In her article “Language Users and the Creation of Neologisms,” linguist R. Miliūnaitė also identifies the author of this new name for trousers as journalist Andrius Užkalnis (Miliūnaitė 2012b: 8). Perhaps this name will not catch on because it evokes an undesirable association; cf. LKŽ tįsoklis “2. a poor, shoddy garment.” Moreover, in colloquial speech the word is often used to describe any baggy or sagging trousers. SUMMARY. As the examples show, Lithuanian-origin names for trousers, although not formed according to the most productive word-formation patterns, are readily understood without context and should therefore be considered potential25 neologisms. In addition, some of them are formed by analogy with words already present in the language, for example: tįskelnės, tampkelnės, sijonkelnės. In total, only four types of trousers have been discussed in this part of the article. Yet more than one Lithuanian name has been created for them. Thus, instead of the single English name for trousers leggings, we have as many as four Lithuanian neologisms: aptemptukai, aptemptukės, tamprės and timpos; instead of English treggings, two: kel-ninės and tampkelnės; instead of English culottes – sijonkelnės. Only one name is of Lithuanian origin, that is, it did not arise under the influence of another language: tįskelnės. The newly coined names for trousers are suffixal derivatives (–ukai, –ukės, –inės) and ending-based derivatives (–ės, –os), as well as compounds containing the element –kelnės. 24 See http://www.vlkk.lt/konsultacijos/8276-dzeginsai-tampdzinsiai-timpdzinsiai-treginsai-tampkelnes-timpkelnes-tampres [accessed 2020-07-15]. 25 In the article, potential neologisms are understood as neologisms formed according to a productive word-formation pattern, or as unlisted but potentially possible and familiar to language users (cf. Urbutis 2009: 316). Terminologija | 2020 | 27 173 As Kazimieras Gaivenis states, specialists in various fields usually check the correctness of terminological neologisms by analogy: “if one or more words of similar formation are found, the neologism is considered correct and suitable for use; if no words formed by analogy are found, it is rejected without mercy” (Gaivenis 2014: 57). This claim does not, of course, apply in every case; nevertheless, on this basis, it can be said that all the Lithuanian-origin names for trousers discussed here can be used in our language. It is clear that motivated names for trousers are easier to remember and more quickly find a place in the terminological microsystem, especially when they are new names. The Lithuanian neologisms for trousers found in the Neologism Database (see Fig. 1) show that users try to form new names and are not always quick to use a foreign word. In assessing the need for such names, it may be concluded that their emergence is primarily related to the need to name newly appearing types of trousers, reflecting the close links between clothing terminology and that of other languages. NAMES OF NON-LITHUANIAN ORIGIN The 12 new names for trousers found are borrowings: cigaretės, činai, denimai, džegingsai, kapriai, kiulotai, kulotės, lenarai, meging­sai, obtiažkės, šalvarai, tregingsai, which entered our language through intermediary languages, mainly English; one name was borrowed from Russian (obtiažkės). CIGARETTES. As stated in the Neologism Database, these are “women’s narrow trousers that fit closely to the legs.” This metaphorical name for trousers was most likely borrowed from English cigarette pants26; cf. also German Zigarettenhose and French pantalon cigarette. In the book Fashion: From Prehistoric Times to the Present Day, the term is written in quotation marks as “cigarettes”: “close-fitting, tapered women’s trousers, similar to capris, only longer” (M 2015: 438; cf. also DFH 2010: 48). The English word cigarette, meaning “cigarette, cigarillo,” came from French cigarette, meaning “cigarette.” Lithuanian uses the international word cigaretė (TŽŽ 1985: 90; TŽŽ 2001: 135; TŽŽ 2007: 200). BŽ lists the word cigaretė as “a tobacco product made from shredded tobacco leaves wrapped in a thin (cigarette) paper tube”; the “trousers” meaning is not distinguished. This name does not appear in AATŽ. The English-language Dictionary of Fashion History states that such trousers have been worn since the 1950s (DFH 2010: 48). 26In the Shorter Oxford English Dictionary, we find the following explanation of this word combination: “women’s trousers with straight, very narrow legs” (COED 2011: 258). 174 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai More usage variants can be found online: cigarette-shaped trousers27, cigarette trousers28, “cigarette-style trousers29, and so on. C H I N O S. “Smart casual trousers for both men and women, made from chino fabric,” are called by the word činai, borrowed from English; cf. English chinos “khaki-coloured trousers” (Anglonas 2005), and cf. Russian чинос. The unadapted English loan is also used in the aforementioned book Mada. Nuo pirmykščių laikų iki šių dienų: chinos—“cotton twill trousers, originally khaki-coloured, worn by US military personnel, later becoming popular as casual trousers and in the preppy style” (M 2015: 438). Online and in books about fashion, these trousers are also called čino30, čino trousers31, CHINO trousers32, and so on. D E N I M S. This neologism refers to trousers made from denim33. The word denimas is found in dictionaries of international words (TŽŽ 1985: 103; TŽŽ 2001: 155; TŽŽ 2007: 228). Only one meaning is given there: “a rather thick, dense cotton fabric.” The word is also included in the BŽ currently being compiled: “a thick, dense, durable cotton fabric; syn. denim fabric.” The meaning “trousers” is absent. Thus, it is new. The fabric is discussed in dictionaries of clothing and textile terminology (AATŽ 2014: 108; ATTŽ 2001: 8734), as well as in a book on fashion history (M 2015: 439) and the Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion (ECF 2005: 359). The word denimas most likely entered Lithuanian from English; cf. English denim. In the English-language History of Fashion Dic- 27 See https://www.housebrand.com/lt/lt/ui964-59x/ladies-trousers [accessed 2020-08-13]. 28 See https://www.mohito.com/lt/lt/catalogsearch/result/?q=cigarette+keln%C4%97s [accessed 2020-08-13]. 29 See https://www.glami.lt/house/house-cigarettes-tipo-kelnes-turkio-100744/ [accessed 2020-08-13]. 30 2017 m. išleistoje Algirdo Griciaus knygoje Idealiai tinkantis kostiumas: praktiškas stilius moderniam vyrui vartojamas pavadinimas čino (angl. chinos, khakis) (Gricius 2017: 181), taip pat čino kelnės (Gricius 2017: 184). 31 See A. Gricius’s article “6 Most Popular Men’s Trousers: What They Are Called, How They Differ and How They Are Similar,” available online at: https://www.vyrostilius.lt/stilius-mada/6-populiariausios-vyriskos-kelnes/ [accessed 2020-04-04]. 32 The English loanword is distinguished by capital letters; see https://www.audimas.lt/katalogas/tiesaus-silueto-chino-kel-nes-2/ [accessed 2020-04-04]. 33 This is “a durable and strong cotton denim fabric, usually made of warp threads dyed blue with indigo and undyed weft threads; it became popular from the mid-19th century in the USA, where it was made using the technology of weavers in the city of Nîmes in France, as a substitute for more expensive imported denim fabric from Genoa; it is also used for contemporary denim clothing, casual wear and workwear” (AATŽ 2014: 108). Władysław Kopaliński’s dictionary gives the following description: “DENIMS, blue jeans; English denims (plural of the word denim). The word denim, meaning a coarse cotton twill fabric, comes from the French (serge de Nîmes – Nîmes serge (Nîmes is a city in southern France)” (Kopaliński 2001: 85). 34 In ATTŽ, preference is given to the term denim fabric. Terminologija | 2020 | 27 1 7 5 denim, as well as AATŽ and ECF, it is stated that this fabric name originated from the name of the French city of Nîmes, cf. French (serge) de Nîmes ‘serge35 from Nîmes’ (DFH 2010: 243; AATŽ 2014: 108; ECF 2005: 359). The discussed name for the trousers is not used everywhere. In clothing terminology, another name derived from English is more common in its place: džinsai (English jeans36; cf. the definition: ‘Sturdy trousers made of denim, worn by American farmers and manual laborers, popularized greatly by films about cowboys’ (M 2015: 440). For this very reason, the neologism denimai is entirely unnecessary. JEGGINGS. The new name for trousers was coined on the model of the English blend37 jeggings. The latter apparently arose from two other English words – jeans and leggings (see COED); cf. Russian джеггинсы. The English name is motivated: it refers to trousers combining characteristics of both jeans and leggings. Apparently for this very reason, the VLKK Consultation Bank recommends using džinsines tamprės, tampdžinsiai, timpdžinsiai38. The internet also offers several other non-standard variants of this borrowing: džeginsai, jeggings'ai, jeggins'ai or simply jeggings. Only one fashion book uses the two-word name recommended by the VLKK, džinsinės tamprės (M 2015: 440). The term does not appear in AATŽ. Thus, the discussed blend džegingsai entered Lithuanian as a borrowing. It must be acknowledged that, in both English and Lithuanian, it is used to express the idea concisely and, of course, expressively. R. Miliūnaitė, a researcher of Standard Lithuanian, states in the article “New Blends in the Lithuanian Language” that “translating blends by means of corresponding blends in one’s own language is not always possible, because they would be difficult to recognize. For example, although the borrowing leginsai is considered unacceptable in Standard Lithuanian (the recommended forms are tamprės, timpės), in a translated text one cannot do without it, because there is no way to call džeginsus *džimpė- 35 Serge is ‘a dense twill-weave fabric, lightly fulled and napped, used for making men’s and women’s suits, while the very glossy kind is used for lining suits and coats’ (AATŽ 2014: 361). 36 Arba džinsais vadinamos „ypač mėlynos kelnės“ (ECF 2010: 243). 37 Blending, or contamination, is ‘the emergence of a new word or expression by mixing parts of two words or expressions’ (KTŽ 1990: 108). Lithuanian linguistics has traditionally not regarded blending as a word-formation method (for more, see Urbutis 2009: 324; cf. LKE 2008: 282). According to D. Murmulaitytė, ‘in English this phenomenon is considerably more widespread, widely studied, and regarded as one of the frequent and productive methods of word formation’ (Murmulaitytė 2018: 61). 38 For more, see the VLKK website: http://www.vlkk.lt/konsultacijos/8276-dzeginsai-tampdzinsiai-timpdzinsiai-treginsai-tampkelnes-timpkelnes-tampres [accessed 2020-04-04]. 1 7 6 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai mis (‘denim leggings’), whereas meginsus *vimpėmis (‘men’s leggings’) would be inaccurate” (Miliūnaitė 2014: 257). C A P R I S. As stated in the Neologism Database, these are ‘tight, tapered trousers reaching mid-calf’. The name derives from a toponym—the name of the Italian island of Capri in the Mediterranean Sea; cf. Italian isola di Capri. Like most neologisms, it was borrowed from English; cf. English Capri pants (CED; DFH 2010: 39–40; AATŽ 2014: 183) or Capris (CED), as well as English pirate trousers (AATŽ 2014: 183); cf. also German Capri-Hose. The name for these trousers, kapriai, appears not only in the Neologism Database but also in AATŽ (2014: 183), in the publication Fashion: From Primitive Times to the Present Day (M 2015: 444), and in A. Gilytė’s book Spintologija: Teen (Gilytė 2015: 235). It is listed in BŽ and TŽŽ 2013 with the meaning ‘short, usually tight trousers covering the knees’. The adapted form kapriai is also found in the recommended List of Foreign Word Equivalents39, approved by the VLKK in protocol resolution No. PN-6 on 28 October 2010. Alongside the adapted form, non-standard variants also occur, e.g. kapri kelnės, capri kelnės, and others. The name for these trousers is recorded in NSDB40, as well as CORPUS. C U L O T T E S. As defined in the Neologism Database, these are ‘women’s cropped trousers with a high waist’. Interestingly, AATŽ defines kiulotai differently: ‘Narrow, short, tight men’s trousers barely covering the knees, with slanted pockets, worn by the nobility in France and other European countries until the early 19th century’ (AATŽ 2014: 194). As the dictionary definition shows, the name is used for historical men’s trousers, while the Neologism Database records a new aspect of the word’s meaning: trousers designed for women. The word kiulotai derives from French culottes, but the new meaning most likely came from English culottes ‘1. culottes; 2. hist. knee breeches’ (Anglonas 2005); cf. German Culotte, Kniehose, Russian кюлоты. International dictionaries state that kiulotai are ‘short trousers worn by French nobles until the early 19th century’ (TŽŽ 1985: 245; TŽŽ 2001: 371; TŽŽ 2007: 548; 2013); a similar explanation is given in a Russian-language dictionary of clothing terminology (TCO41). In the book Fashion: From Primitive Times to 39 See https://e-seimas.lrs.lt/portal/legalAct/lt/TAD/TAIS.385140 [accessed 2020-04-04]. 40 See http://nsdb.sociolingvistika.lt/zodziai.htm?zodis=kapriai&id=429 [accessed 2020-04-15]. 41 For more, see http://modnaya.ru/articles/dictionary/glossary-of-clothing/fc/slovar-202-3.htm#zag-851 [accessed 2020-04-15]. Terminologija | 2020 | 27 177 šių dienų šiuo žodžiu taip pat vadinamos vyrams skirtos kelnės (M 2015: 445). Žodis kiulotai įtrauktas į BŽ antraštyną. Ši forma laikoma normine. CULOTTES. This is a nonstandard variant of the new trouser name kiulotai. As a search conducted using the Google search engine shows, it is used less frequently than the standard variant, e.g., “wide cropped trousers, also known as culottes⁴²”; in some articles it is written in quotation marks—“kulotės”—or called sijonkelnės: “wide cotton culottes (skirt-trousers)⁴³”. LENARS. As stated in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms, these are “wide, baggy trousers characteristic of the style of certain subcultures (for example, ravers).” The name most likely derives from Polish, more specifically from the surname of the garment’s designer, Ryszard Lenar⁴⁴; cf. Polish lenary. In various online articles, the name of the trousers is usually written in quotation marks, e.g., “lenarai”⁴⁵. A search using the Google search engine finds the name lenarai with the meaning “wide, baggy trousers” on the website Žodynas.lt⁴⁶; the Dictionary of Barbarisms gives a broader meaning: “baggy and wide trousers worn by rappers,” “trousers with a dropped crotch, worn for hip-hop dancing or rapping”⁴⁷; cf. “lenarai—a type of jeans that became popular in the 1990s”; these “jeans had particularly wide legs, and the crotch was roughly at knee level”⁴⁸. The forms “lenarai (hip-hop/rap style, wide trousers)”⁴⁹, “denim lenarai”⁵⁰, and “lenarai trousers”⁵¹ are also in use. “Lenarai are baggy trousers (with a very low crotch), intended for dancing to hip-hop music or performing it ⁴² See https://www.delfi.lt/stilius/stiliaus-gidas/imkite-pavyzdi-is-kembridzo-kunigaikstienes-kulotes-taps-butinybe-ir-jusu-garderobe.d?id=82516221 [accessed 2020-04-04]. ⁴³ See https://ohmy.lt/lt/product/minimalistines-kulotes-road/ [accessed 2020-04-04]. ⁴⁴ For more details, see https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ryszard_Lenar [accessed 2020-04-04]. ⁴⁵ See https://www.tv3.lt/naujiena/pramogos/1005384/vieniems-kosmaras-kitiems-dziaugsmas-lenarai-grizta-i-mada [accessed 2020-04-05]. ⁴⁶ For more details, see https://www.zodynas.lt/jaunimo-zodynas/L/lenarai [accessed 2020-04-15]. ⁴⁷ The wording of this and the other quotations has not been edited. For more details, see http://www.barbarizmai.lt/zodis/lenarai.html [accessed 2020-04-15]. ⁴⁸ See https://www.tv3.lt/naujiena/pramogos/1005284/vieniems-kosmaras-kitiems-dziaugsmas-lenarai-grizta-i-mada [accessed 2020-04-15]. ⁴⁹ See http://www.mainyk.lt/daiktas/lenarai-hip-hop-rap-rep-stiliaus-placios-kelnes/717711 [accessed 2020-04-15]. ⁵⁰ See https://www.musumazyliai.lt/apranga-berniukams/su-petnesom-kombinezonai/12344349-dzinsiniai-lenarai [accessed 2020-04-15]. ⁵¹ See https://forumas.draugas.lt/searchresults.cfm?fvar_anykeyword=keln%C4%97s+lenarai [accessed 2020-04-15]. 178 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai to rap. They became popular around 1995. In fact, they were worn not only by rappers but also by ravers. They were an ideal garment and a symbol for telling rockers, hooligans and metalheads who you were52. This neologism is also listed in the NSDB53. The original form is given here, lenara (though the language is not specified). It can be found at the end of Loreta Vaicekauskienė’s book Naujieji lietuvių kalbos svetimžodžiai: kalbos politika ir vartosena, in the “Compendium of New Loanwords” (Vaicekauskienė 2007: 284). According to DLKT data, the word lenarai is mentioned among other clothing terms in Jurgis Kunčinas’s book Blanchisserie, arba Žvėrynas–Užupis (1997). MEGGINGS. The new name for trousers is derived from English meggings, which apparently arose from the English words male ‘man, male’ and leggings ‘leggings’; cf. also Russian меггинсы. Thus, this too is a blend coined in English and borrowed into Lithuanian. It denotes men’s leggings (UD, CED). This name is rarely used. A search in the Google search engine yielded an instance in which a possible Lithuanian equivalent is given synonymously: megingsai, or vyriškos aptemptukės54. As already mentioned, the word aptemptukės is not widespread in usage. It seems that the native Lithuanian two-word term vyriškos tamprės ‘men’s leggings’ could be used instead of the foreignism megingsai; cf. moteriškos tamprės ‘women’s leggings’. OBTIAŽKĖS. This nonstandard name for trousers is usually used in informal registers; cf. Russian обтяжки, and also Russian в обтяжку ‘tight, close-fitting, clinging to the body (of clothing)’ (RLKŽ 1983: 446). J. Pričinauskas’s Rusų–lietuvių kalbų prekių žodynas states that обтяжки means ‘tights, close-fitting garments’ (RLKPŽ 1996: 281). In Kalbos patarimai, the spelling variant obtiaškės is recorded; tamprės ‘leggings’ is recommended instead (KP L1 2005: 83). This loan differs from the others in that it comes from Russian; in recent times, neologisms have been actively borrowed from English. As already discussed, the Naujažodžių duomenynas also lists tamprės, timpos, aptemptukai and aptemptukės as names for tight-fitting trousers. Since the name obtiažkės is used outside the scholarly sphere, its terminological nominative function cannot even be discussed. It is entirely unnecessary in clothing terminology. 52 See https://www.facebook.com/xfaktorius/posts/1610624642384624/ [accessed 2020-05-25]. 53 See http://nsdb.sociolingvistika.lt/zodziai.htm?zodis=lenarai&id=2026 [accessed 2020-04-15]. 54 See https://www.zmones.lt/video/megingsai-arba-vyriskos-aptemptukes.46046cb9-94ca-11e8-9f90-aa000054c883# [accessed 2020-04-04], https://www.15min.lt/gyvenimas/naujiena/mada/keisciausios-mados-idejos-1032-355408 [accessed 2020-04-04]. Terminologija | 2020 | 27 179 ŠALVARAI. This name is used to denote “wide trousers that narrow at the ankle, usually worn with a kamiz in South Asia” (Naujažodžių duomenynas). The word šalvarai, like its variant šarovarai⁵⁵, generally used when referring to realities of Slavic countries, comes from the Persian word šalvār ‘trousers’. The Naujažodžių duomenynas gives the following: English transliterations salwar, shalwar, shalvar; Russian шаровары. The variant šarovarai is also found in dictionaries of international words (TŽŽ 2001: 717; TŽŽ 2007: 1059; TŽŽ 2013: 790). These state that the word comes from Persian but was transmitted through intermediary languages: Russian шаровары < Hungarian salavári < Persian šalvār ‘trousers’. A Russian-language clothing dictionary states that it entered Russian from Turkish šalvar (Russian шалвар), which in turn came from Persian⁵⁶. It also gives the Lithuanian equivalent plačkelinės. The new name for trousers is absent from AATŽ, but the dictionary contains the term plačkelinės, denoting “long, wide trousers gathered along the shins, forming part of the national dress of some eastern peoples, as well as Ukrainians” (AATŽ 2014: 318)—that is, essentially the same trousers, but under a different name. Thus, the loanword should be replaced by a native word. TREGGINGS. A loanword from English, like džegingsai and megingsai. The English word treggings is also a blend, formed from the English words trousers and leggings; cf. Russian треггинсы. As already mentioned, in the Naujažodžių duomenynas it denotes “tight-fitting trousers made of stretch fabric; a combination of leggings and trousers.” The notes in this Naujažodžių duomenynas record that “instead of the foreignism, the VLKK recommends using the Lithuanian equivalents tampkelnes, timpkelnes; in diaspora usage, kelhninės is suggested”. SUMMARY. This section of the article discusses new names for trousers borrowed from other languages (mainly English). Only kapriai and kiulotai are found in clothing terminology dictionaries. As can be seen, when some names for trousers are borrowed, an unusual word-formation method (model) in Lithuanian is borrowed as well—blending: džegingsai, meging sai ir tregingsai. In terms of how they entered Lithuanian, these are borrowed from English, where the words jeggings, meggings and treggings arose as a result of blending— 55 VLEe states: “šarovarai (Russian šarovary, Hungarian salavári < Persian šalvār ‘trousers’), plačkelinės—long, wide trousers worn by men and women, gathered at the ankles. They were worn mainly in Eastern regions (Iran, India), Ukraine, and also Russia. Šarovarai are part of the national costume of some peoples” (for more details, see https://www.vle.lt/Str teisnis/sarovarai-91620 [accessed 2020-04-05]). 56 See http://modnaya.ru/articles/dictionary/glossary-of-clothing/fc/slovar-216.htm#zag-1645 [accessed 2020-04-15]. 180 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai …tatas. Users of such names of non-Lithuanian origin apparently do not care whether the names are suitable and correct. They take the easiest route—using a borrowed term. It should be noted that other languages, too, use names of foreign origin instead of names of non-Lithuanian origin cigaretės, činai, denimai, kapriai, kiulotai, kulotės, lenarai, šālvarai. It should not be forgotten that borrowing non-Lithuanian names is inevitable. Their admission and use, however, are quite another matter. NAMES OF MIXED ORIGIN TAMPDŽINSIAI. This copulative compound word of mixed origin, or coordinative compound57, most likely arose as a translation from English; cf. jeggings < jeans + leggings, and is formed from the Lithuanian word tamprės (leggings) and the international word džinsai (English jeans, ‘denim fabric’). This word does not occur in LKŽe, DŽ, or BŽ. Tampdžinsiais, as the Naujažodžių duomenyne states, are “leggings that imitate jeans.” Thus, one word attempts to denote two characteristics: that the trousers are both džinsai (jeans) and tamprės (leggings). It should be noted that tampdžinsiai is a terminologically ambiguous name, since it can also be interpreted differently, namely as jeans that stretch. Thus, based on the definition in the Naujažodžių duomenyno, these trousers could be called by the hyponymic term džinsinės tamprės (denim leggings). TIMP DŽINSIAI. In the Naujažodžių duomenyne timp džinsiai are defined in the same way as tampdžinsiai: “leggings that imitate jeans.” This name is of mixed origin, copulative, and falsely motivated. It apparently arose as a translation; cf. English jeggings. It is formed, however, from the non-primary normative variant timpos and the international word džinsai (jeans). This word does not occur in LKŽe, DŽ, or BŽ. SUMMARY. The neologisms tampdžinsiai and timpdžinsiai are formations that blindly reproduce the composition of the English blend jeggings; that is, they arose through translation of an English blend. Once the distinctive features of these trousers have been thoroughly established and an obvious distinguishing characteristic identified, one of the terms should be used. In the terminology of any field, including clothing, a single-word name is far more convenient than a two-word one. However, it must be precise and well motivated. In this case, the meaning lacks precision. 57 St. Keinys writes that the “components (both nouns) of coordinative compounds do not explain or define one another; they are equivalent” (Keinys 1999: 71). As stated in the Kalbotyros terminų žodyne, a copulative compound, or coordinative compound, is a “compound word whose components are equally independent both in grammatical relation and in meaning” (KTŽ 1990: 196). The academic Lietuvių kalbos gramatikoje notes that the elements of copulative compound nouns denote things that “are approximately equally close to the intermediate entity designated by the compound word” (LKG 1965: 441). Terminologija | 2020 | 27 181 CONCLUSIONS 1. Over time, terms become outdated, and new terms or microsystems of terms emerge. Language use and the growing number of items in a small semantic segment of clothing terminology—the new names for trousers (23 neologisms)—recorded in the Naujažodžių duomenyne show that the existing, long-used names for trousers listed in clothing terminology dictionaries are no longer sufficient, while the semantic group of these names, owing to various linguistic and extralinguistic factors, is becoming a less clearly defined and less isolated part of clothing terminology. Thus, clothing terminology changes, renews itself, continually develops, and becomes modern. 2. In terms of origin, neologisms can be divided into the following groups: 2.1. Names of Lithuanian origin (39%): aptemptukai, aptemptukės, glaudinės, kelininės, sijonkel­nės, tampkelnės, tamprės, timpos, tiškel­nės, which are formed on the model of a word used in Lithuanian or used with a new meaning; 2.2. Names of non-Lithuanian origin (52%): cigaretės, činai, denimai, džegingsai, kapriai, kiulotai, kulotės, lenarai, me­gingsai, obtiažkės, šalvarai, tregingsai; 2.3. Names of mixed origin (9%): tampdžinsiai, timpdžinsiai, which arose in Lithuanian through translation. 3. The same item is named in several ways: instead of English leggings, aptemptukai, aptemptukės, obtiažkės, tamprės, timpos are used; instead of English treggings—kelininės, tampkelnės, tregingsai; instead of English culottes—kiulotai, kulotės ir sijonkel­nės; and instead of English jeg­gings—džegingsai, tampdžinsiai, timpdžinsiai. This most likely occurs unconsciously, due to the influence of English clothing terminology. Such an excess of names arising from language contact indicates not only that the terminology is imperfect, but also an attempt to regulate it. 4. Glaudinės, kapriai, kiulotai, sijonkel­nės, tamprės are clothing terms approved by the VLKK and recorded in the Naujažodžių duomenyne. Aptemptukai, aptemptukės, kelininės, tampdžinsiai, timpdžinsiai, tiškel­nės and other new names for trousers discussed in the article show that society is creative and, when needed, can draw on the resources of the Lithuanian language to coin new names for garments. However, the same requirements of standardization and regulation apply to the subsystem of names for trousers: a name must be systematic, used purposefully, correct, logical, aesthetically pleasing, and clear. 182 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai ŠALTINIAI AATŽ – Stanislovas Algimantas Ratautas, Eugenija Strazdienė, Ada Gulbinienė. 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Prieiga internete: www.vlkk.lt. VLEe – Visuotinė lietuvių enciklopedija, Vilnius: Mokslo ir enciklopedijų leidybos centras, 2001–2020. Prieiga internete: www.vle.lt. THE NEW NAMES OF PANTS S u m m a r y The article addresses a small semantic group of the terms of clothing – 23 new names of trousers or pants. The research material comes from the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms (hereinafter – Database of Neologisms). The aim of the article is to discuss the origin and semantics of the new names of trousers or pants based on the material of the above source. It was found that the Database of Neologisms is dominated by the names of foreign origin, which account for as many as 52 per cent (cigaretės, činai, denimai, džegingsai, kapriai, kiulotai, kulotės, lenarai, meging­sai, obtiažkės, šalvarai, tregingsai). The percentage of the names of Lithuanian origin is smaller; they make up 39 per cent (aptemptukai, aptemptukės, glaudinės, kel­ninės, sijonkel­nės, tampkelnės, tamprės, timpos, tiškel­nės). The names of mixed origin are least common, as they account for 9 per cent (tampdžinsiai, timp­džinsiai). It should be noted that the words of different origin are used to name the same thing: instead of English leggings, aptemptukai, aptemptukės, obtiažkės, tamprės, timpos are used; in place of English treggings, kelninės, tampkelnės, tregingsai are used; English culottes are called kiulotai, kulotės and sijonkel­nės in Lithuanian, whereas the English term jeggings is replaced with džegingsai, tampdžinsiai, timpdžinsiai in Lithuanian. This process is most likely unconscious due to the influence of English terminology. Such a surplus of names resulting from language contacts does not only show the imperfection of terminology but also an attempt to organise it. The emergence of the new terms for trousers or pants shows that the available names of trousers or pants used since the old times and established in the dictionaries of the terms of clothing are no longer sufficient. As a result of various linguistic and extralinguistic factors, the semantic group of the names of trousers or pants is becoming a not so clearly defined and isolated part of the terminology of clothing. Gauta 2020-06-12 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusa kratė Lietuvių kalbos institutas P. Vileišio g. 5, LT-10308 Vilnius E. paštas [email protected] Terminologija | 2020 | 27 185