Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai

164 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | New names for trousers doi.org/10.35321/term27-07 New pants names AUŠRA RIMKUTĖ-GANUSAUSKIENĖ Lietuvių kalbos institutas ANNOTATION The article examines a small semantic group of clothing terms – the new names of trousers. The research material is taken from the Lithuanian language new words database (hereinafter – New Words Database). The aim of the article is to discuss the origin and semantics of the new pants names based on the material of the aforementioned source. Since the modern terminology of clothing has not been studied, it is expected that the generalized material will be interesting and useful. KEY WORDS: clothing, pants names, clothing term, loan, new word ABSTRACT The article addresses a small semantic group of the terms of clothing – the new names of trousers or pants. The research material comes from the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms. The aim of the article is to discuss the origin and semantics of the new names of trousers or pants based on the material of the above source. Whereas the present-day terminology of clothing is largely unresearched, the summarised material is expected to be interesting and useful. KEYWORDS: clothing, names of trousers or pants, term of clothing, borrowing, neologism STUDY MATERIAL SPECIFICATIONS AND SEARCH In the terminology of any field, new single-word and compound terms are constantly emerging. Over time, their form, content changes. The terminology of clothing is no exception. The object of this article is the new names of trousers recorded in the electronic Naujažodžiai database1. 1 More information about the database and its resources can be found in the articles by Rita Miliūnaitė (Miliūnaitė 2012a: 3–11; Miliūnaitė 2015: 161–184; Miliūnaitė 2018: 1–21), Agnė Aleksaitė (Aleksaitė 2018: 1–2; Aleksaitė 2019: 1–27), Daiva Murmulaitytė (Murmulaitytė 2016a: 1–27; Murmulaitytė 2016b: 68–88) and others. 2 In the New Words database, new words are words that are not in the reference dictionaries: the 6th e-edition of the Contemporary Lithuanian Dictionary, the online Lithuanian Dictionary and the 2001 edition of the Lithuanian-English Dictionary. International word dictionary (see also http://naujazodziai.lki.lt/?Apie_duomenyna). This concept is also followed in the article. 165Terminologija | 2020 | 27 search by these parameters: part of language – noun, definition – pants, scope of use – lifestyle (style), in total found 21 name: aptemptukai, aptemptukės, cigaretės, činai, činas, denimai, glaudinės, kapriai, kelninės, kiulotai, kojinės, kulotės, lenarai, obtiažkės, sijonkelnės, nės – tights. Therefore, it was decided to verify the results by reviewing all headings in the šalvarai, tampkelnės, tamprės, timpos, tįskelnės, tregingsai. Kaip matyti, ne visi rasti žodžiai vartojami kelnėms apibūdinti: činas – audinys, kojakeldatabase3. Four other names for trousers have been found: jeggings, megings, tamp jeans and timp jeans. The described computer search did not show these names because they are defined by the word tamprės. Thus, in total, this article examines 23 new names of trousers – new words4 or words that have acquired new meanings. The aim of this article is to discuss the origin and semantics of new pants names based on the material of the New Words Database. To achieve this goal, the following tasks are proposed: 1) inventory of new pants names; 2) to clarify the possible circumstances of the emergence of new words of this small semantic group – whether the new name of a clothing appeared according to the analogy of other languages, whether it was created using the word formation formats of its language, perhaps a word already in the language is used with a new meaning, etc. ; 3) to determine the ratio of names of Lithuanian, non-Lithuanian and mixed origin; 4) analyze the semantics of new pants names. The collected material is analyzed using methods of description, analysis, interpretation and calculation. The new names of trousers found in the electronic database are discussed in the article by grouping according to origin. In each subsection they are discussed in more detail: they are written from a new line in capital letters according to the alphabet, thinned, the definition of the New Words database is provided (in specific cases the concept is supplemented with descriptions found in dictionaries or other sources), the composition and origin are discussed more broadly. Deepening into the semantics of new pants names, information and examples of usage are searched in books about clothing and fashion. Quantitative data is summarized in a chart. 3 As of December 20, 2019, Naujažodžių duomenyne has accumulated as many as 5400 new words headings (http://naujazodziai.lki.lt/?Apie_duomenyna) [accessed 2020-04-01]. 4 A new word, or neologism, is “every newly created unit of language” (Kvašytė 2005: 41; see also KTŽ 1990: 133; Urbutis 2009: 36–37; Jakaitienė 2010: 205; Girčienė 2011: 165), while a new word is “only such a new word that has been created by adjective” (LKE 1999: 429). Thus, the term "new" is narrower than "newword". 166 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | The new names of trousers Before considering the modern names of trousers, it is worth remembering the meaning of the word trousers. Trousers, as the linguist Danutė Sabaliauskaitė5 writes in her article “Names of trousers in the Lithuanian language”, based on the works of the German linguists Hermann Hirt and Otto Schrader, “were spread somewhat later than the belt, hat, cloak, skirt or apron” (Sabaliauskaitė 1996: 167): “By the way, trousers originated from the apron (Schrader 1917: 592). As in all Eastern Europe, they have been worn in Lithuania since ancient times. This is confirmed by archaeological findings from the 9th–12th centuries (Volkaitė-Kulikauskienė 1970: 130; Atlas 1986: 107). Since trousers were one of the main parts of men’s clothing, there are many names for them in Lithuanian” (Sabaliauskaitė 1996: 167). Lithuanian costume historian and designer Rūta Guzevičiūtė states that “trousers as a specific element of clothing arose from the need to protect the feet from friction while riding” (Guzevičiūtė 2002: 16). In Lithuanian, the word kelnės forms kẽlinės (older form) and kélnės, as mentioned in the article by D. Sabaliauskaitė, were first recorded in sources from the beginning of the 17th century (Sabaliauskaitė 1996: 167). Both forms are also found in many 18th-19th century dictionaries (see LKEŽ for more details). Algirdas Sabaliauskas considers the word kelnės to be a word that is only typical of Lithuanian (Sabaliauskas 1990: 206). In the Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms by Stanislovas Algimantas Ratautas, Eugenija Strazdiene and Ada Gulbinienė (hereinafter referred to as the AATŽ), trousers are described as “a garment covering the lower part of the waist and legs, which is held on the body by the waist, fastened with buttons or straps, tightened with elastic or belt” (AATŽ 2014: 187). The authors provide the following equivalents in foreign languages: English pantaloon, pants, trousers, French pantalon, Russian штаны, брюки, German. Pants. A slightly shorter definition is given in the Explanatory Dictionary of Textile Terms: with German, English, French and Russian equivalents (hereinafter referred to as the ATTZ): ‘A garment for the lower body with long clogs for each leg’ (ATTZ 2001: 89). There are various types of pants. They can be divided into smaller semantic groups, e.g., underpants, swim pants, baby pants, short pants, sports pants, etc., according to purpose, material from which this garment is sewn, weaving, cut, feature or detail distinguishing it from other models, e.g., color, fabric pattern, shape, length, waist, etc. The new words database found pants names in smaller semantic 5, now Liutkevičienė. 167Terminology | 2020 | 27 groups are not grouped, because, firstly, these names are not many, and secondly, such a division seems inappropriate. However, the names found are divided into Lithuanian, non-Lithuanian and mixed origin. As can be seen from Figure 1, non-Lithuanian names of trousers predominate – they make up more than half of the new words examined (52%). Almost two-fifths of the names are Lithuanian (39%), about one-tenth (9%) have Lithuanian and non-Lithuanian components. In total, in the database of new words we find 9 single-word names of trousers of Lithuanian origin: aptemptukai, aptemptukės, glaudinės, kelninės, sijonkelnės, tampkelnės, tamprės, timpos, tįskelnės. As can be seen from the examples, some of them are verbically similar, but only the name of glaudinės stands out – it is used in dictionaries without mentioning a new meaning. YOU'RE GETTING OUT. "About Us". pg. DŽ aptemptas, The New Words Database defines it as: "long (foot-length) tight trousers of thin fabric, often worn under a skirt, dress or other longer outer garment", cf. обтяжки, angl. leggings 1. ‘tamprės, timpės’; 2. ‘leggings; blauzdinės“ (ALLAKŽ 2001: 209)6. So, the word straps 6 Plg. 1. ‘leggings’; 2. „bluzinės“ (Anglonas 2005). Figure 1. Distribution of new pants names by origin, % 168 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | The new names of the trousers try to highlight one important feature of these trousers – they tightly tighten the legs. The authors of the database of new words indicate that instead of this name of the trousers "other variants – tamprės and timpos – established themselves in common language". That is why this thermal renovation7 is completely unnecessary for the thermalization of clothing. In the Lithuanian Language Dictionary (hereinafter – LKŽe), the Contemporary Lithuanian Language Dictionary (hereinafter – DŽ) and the General Lithuanian Language Dictionary (hereinafter – BŽ) there are no word wraps. Tight. "Pleurotus ostreatus, P. ostreatus". DŽ aptemptas, is defined in the New Words Database in the same way as aptempts. This shows the identity of these new words. The new name of the trousers aptemptukės, apparently, like aptemptukai, appeared in translation, cf. Russian. обтяжки, also cf. English. leggings. In the text of the contemporary Lithuanian language (hereinafter referred to as the DLKT) there is one example of the use of the word aptemptukas, more examples of the use can be found in the Google search engine. In LKŽe, DŽ and BŽ this word does not exist. The new term aptemptukai, like aptemptukai, is unlikely to be among the commonly used words, so it should not even be considered a dress term – the name is alive only in a certain context, in this case – primarily in the New Words Database, as well as in the Internet media, some online shops or online chat sites. CLUSTERED. This feminine plural noun is usually used in the meaning of "close", i.e. "short swimsuit, sports pants". The word tights is interpreted as "long, tight-fitting, often knitted, knitted trousers", cf. tights "triko (tight trousers)" (Anglonas 2005). This word was used for the first time in the meaning of “glaudžių”, according to LKŽe, in 1937 in the newspaper Gimtoji kalba8. In the section of this newspaper called "Question sheet", it was asked whether the word "platinukas" (shorts) is correct and should be used. „The swimsuit is a new piece, apparently made on the basis of a sweater, etc., but not very well done in terms of fabrication. After all, knitwear is a knitted garment, and *bathing suit (from which to swim nùkas) is not a rack. We prefer the glossary (understand: kel7 The linguist Juozas Pikčilingis uses the term terminological reworking (Pikčilingis 1975: 156). 8 VLEe writes that Gimtoji kalba is a “monthly magazine of the general Lithuanian language. 1933–41 in Kaunas, 1958–68 in Chicago, since 1990 in Vilnius. Initially published by a group of language lovers, 1935-37 as a publication of the Lithuanian Language Society – Sakalo bendrovė, 1938-41 and 1990-96 – Lithuanian Language Society, 1958-68 – the Cultural Foundation of the Lithuanian Community in the United States of America, 1996-2000 – the company Gimtoji kalba, since 2000 published by the Science and Encyclopedias Publishing Center”. In 1936-1937 the journal was edited by the linguist Leonardas Dambriūnas (until 1945 under the surname Dambrauskas). 169Terminologija | 2020 | 27 naitės) or glosses, which we also find in V. Kamantauskas’ “Let’s Talk Lithuanian” (KK 1937: 137–138). There is no word consonant DŽ and BŽ. sers with footstraps, vok. Steghose, fr. pantalon à sous „Kelnių“ reikšme žodį glaudnės rekomenduojama vartoti 2002 m. išėjusiame Juozo Pričinausko Aprangos žodyne9, plg. angl. anchored pant, troupied, rus. рейтузы (AŽ 2002: 37). In Stanislav Stonkus’ Dictionary of Sports Terms10, the term in question (English tights, German Sporthose, Russian рейтузы) is defined as follows: “Sports pants of different lengths, tightly fitting to the body. D protects the athlete from injuries, maintains heat" (STZ 2002: 172). In both the 2005 and 2013 Language Advice Books for borrowers, the word glaudinės is proposed to be used in a new meaning instead of the Russian loanword raitūzai or reitūzai (KP L1 2005: 95, 96; 2013: 52, 53). The term is also used in the IPA. Here it is understood as "waist-reaching, tight-fitting women's underpants with straight thighs of varying lengths" (AATŽ 2014: 152), cf. knickers, damskie pantalony. The word is used to refer to the 11th-century reign of the Rurik dynasty (Rurik the Great, Rurik I, Rurik II, Rurik III, Rurik IV). Riding pants. In the 1992 edition of Terminology corrections we find the following entries: raitūzai see reitūzai12 (TT 1992: 89), reitūzai svet. (=laudūnės) goods, sport. (TT 1991: 90). The Russian-Lithuanian dictionary of goods states that рейтузы is a knitwear product: "1. riders, tight trousers, 2. tights’ (RLKPŽ 1996: 381), cf. tight trousers (RLKPŽ 1996: 610). In Genovaitė Irtmonienė’s and Jono Šukio’s Language Advice for Physical Culture and Sport Specialists, published in 2000, the word “strangeness” for “reituzas” is replaced by the word “glaudinės” (Irtmonienė, Šukys 2000: 82)13. 9 The language and terminology consultant for this dictionary is Dr. Jonas Klimavičius. 10 The dictionary was reviewed by Dr. J. Klimavičius. In the Russian-Lithuanian dictionaries we find that it is 1. ‘riding trousers; 2. Reitūzai (knitted trousers)” (RLKŽ 1949: 439), cf. “1. rider’s trousers; 2. getrinės kelnės, glaudės (moteriškos ir vaikiškos)” (RLKŽ 1984: 641). 12 Presented as in the publication. 13 The Russian dictionary of clothing terms provides 3 meanings of the term reitūzai: 1. Long knitted narrow, tight-fitting trousers (originally designed for riding). 2. Long knitted women's or children's tight trousers to the ankles. (3) Knitted shorts for women or children are underwear, the same as the trousers described in definition 2. The Russian word is derived from the German. Reithosen (see http://www.moda-dic.ru/html/r/reytuz3.html [accessed 2020-04-16]). 170 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji kelnių pavadinimai LKŽe taip pat randame šį žodį. Jis mūsų kalboje vartojamas net 4 reikšmėmonth: 1. “rolled embellishments, decoration, ornament”; 2. ‘red lily’; 3. "a vine-like nursery flower whose flowers resemble lilies" and 4. ‘pl. sermėga bez skvernu”. As you can see, the last meaning is related to clothing. Summarizing all that has been said, it can be said that the new word in the meaning of tight "pants" appeared as a result of standardization, terminology. It is already used in clothing terminology, so it should not be forgotten. Panties. "Place of birth, plg. D.J. trousers "a garment worn on the waist and legs". This new name of the trousers was recorded in 2015 by the linguist Agnė Aleksaitė. It is stated that they are ‘tight trousers of stretch fabric; combination of tights and trousers’. The new word is used instead of treggings14, cf. German. Treggings. In the online Urban Dictionary, the English word is used to refer to very tight trousers or military trousers that are rather obtuse and look like tights. Thus, we could consider it a situational15 innovation, which arose to name a new garment. The Google search engine found only a few instances of use of the name of the trousers in question. It is not widespread in the wild. This seems to be influenced by the fact that derivatives of the suffix -inės are quite rare, especially in the terminology of clothing, cf. ausinės, glaudinės, įkurinės, etc. There is no reference to the name in the dictionaries. It is not found in LKŽe, DŽ and BŽ. The authors of the Naujažodžiai data base note that the word kelninės was "created (used) by expatriates". It is obvious that in the terminology of clothing this name of Lithuanian origin will not survive due to false, inaccurate motivation – it does not reveal the essential feature of these trousers – elasticity. Panties. It is, as the Naujažodžiai data base writes, "a skirt-like wide trousers often only covering the knees (usually worn by women)". Books in Fashion. From the earliest times to the end of the present day, the glossary states that the skirt-pants are “a feminine garment that looks like a skirt, but performs the function of pants. Initially worn for riding or cycling” (M 2015: 456). The name 14 The Collins English Dictionary states that the word treggings originated from trousers "trousers" and leggings "leggings" (CED). 15 Situational re-creation is an accidental, individual, deliberately created re-creation of an unusual work or created according to an unproductive type of work, without respecting the meaning of the work (VLEe, cf. Urbutis 2009: 323– 324; Jakaitienė 2010: 207). In linguistic articles, it is also referred to as expressive, optional, incidental, stylistic, authorial, occasional, etc. 171Terminology | 2020 | 27 probably derived from translation, cf. culottes 1. ‘skirts’ and 2. ‘ist. kiulotai’ (Anglona 2005). So, this is a skirt of words "ppr. a feminine garment running from the waist down” and a trouser hem. The Russian-Lithuanian dictionary of goods has the name skirt-trousers, pg. rus. юбка-брюки (RLKPŽ 1996: 537, 687). There are not many words with sandu -kelnės, e.g., in LKŽ we find the words kerškelnės, plačkelnės, puskelnės, trumpkelnės, in DLKT – plačkelnės, diaskelnės, sijonkelnės16, sportkelnės. In the AATZ there are more such creations: tights, sneakers, tights, trousers, diapers and skirts. In this dictionary, skirts are considered to be women’s trousers that look like skirts (AATŽ 2014: 362). The ATTZ defines it in a similar way, only specifying that it is short trousers with very wide hems (ATTZ 2001: 289). In both dictionaries we find the following English equivalents of this term: divided skirt and trouser skirt. The word skirts is included in the BZ heading. From what has been said, it can be concluded that the thermal redesign of skirt pants is regular, motivated, convenient to wear, systematic, therefore among the clothing terms has already found a place and is used quite widely. TAMPKELNĖS. The words tampus "which stretches, stretches out" and trousers stitch, which appeared, like the Lithuanian name kelninės, instead of the foreign treggings (English), which is used to designate the combination of tights and trousers. The name tampkelnės is proposed to be used in the Consultation Bank of the State Lithuanian Language Commission (hereinafter – VLKK) instead of the name of mixed origin stretch pants. The AATŽ, LKŽe, DŽ and BŽ do not have this name. TEMPERATURE. 17, pp. 17. DŽ tamprus ‘1. strong, elastic”. This reasoned name refers to the essential characteristic of the trousers – elasticity. The name is found in the AATŽ issued in 2014. The Lithuanian derivative is suggested to be used instead of English leggings or leggings trousers. It is referred to as "underpants or upper pants of varying lengths made of tamper-evident material, e.g. Women's and children's, gen. with elastane and are worn spor16 Name skirts is recorded in the CORPUS database. 17 According to the same model of action, the word glaudės, cf. DG close ‘1. nearby, nearby.” However, this, unlike leggings, was created by taking the distinctive feature of panties, apparently, not the main feature. The linguist Stasys Keinys wrote very appropriately about such cases in his 1979 article „Galūninė lietuviškų terminų daryba“: „The clarity and accuracy of the motivation can help or hinder the acquisition of a term. For no less than four decades, linguists have been introducing into literary usage a substitute for the Trusiac word, namely, the gladde. During this time, many novelties have firmly grown into the language, and the glossy still does not fit, although it is a short and fluent word. Isn’t it the unusualness of action, the undifferentiation of motivation that is to blame?” (Keinys 2005: 105). 172 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | New names of trousers for tuning or leisure” (AATŽ 2014: 410)18. This name of trousers is not only in the New Words database, where it is defined as: "tight trousers of thin stretchy fabric, often worn under a long blouse, dress, skirt or other longer outer garment." It is suggested to use it instead of the borrowed obtiažkė (Russian: обтяжки) in the Language Advices (KP L1 2005: 83), as well as in J. Pričinauskas's Apparel Dictionary (AŽ 2002: 117). The new word tamprės in the meaning of "tight women's knitted or sewn from stretch fabric trousers" is also presented in the electronic version of DŽ19. In the database of new loanwords the loanword leggings „aptemptos kelnės be kojų“ (other forms: legginsai, leggings) is recorded, and the equivalents: blauzdinės, timpės, timpos, tamprės, aptemptukės (NSDB20) are provided. Interesting examples of usage can be found on the website of the online store www.stilano.lt: „Leginsai21 ir tamprės“, „In our assortment you will find leggings and tights of different styles and colors. Women’s leggings are a universal piece of clothing that is essential in every woman’s wardrobe and they should not be the only ones!”, “Today more and more women know that leggings and tights online are the right choice for modern women”22 and others. Such examples show that their author perceives the borrowed and its Lithuanian equivalent as words to describe two different types of trousers. Therefore, it should be noted that the word tamprės is considered the main normative variant and is used instead of the borrowed one. We will not find this impeccably composed novel in the academic LKŽ. It is included in the heading of the BJ. TIMPOS. 23, No. 1, pp. 1. rubber band, hose, cord’. This name of tight trousers of thin stretch fabric is used synonymously with the already discussed name of tights, e.g. "The 100 Greatest Artists of All Time" (PDF) (2014). They are suggested to be used instead of leggings in the Language Tips for Physical Culture and Sports Specialists published by G. Irtmonienė and J. Šukis, but the word tamprės is preferred. 18 Agnė Gilytė defines tampres as follows: “narrow knitted or other stretchy pants, similar to tights, but usually opaque and without feet” (Gilytė 2015: 237). As can be seen from this definition, the stylist emphasizes the fact that from what fabric this piece is sewn, as well as the fact that it is without feet. 19 See http://lkiis.lki.lt/kabartinis [accessed 2020-08-18]. 20 See http://nsdb.sociolingvistika.lt/zodziai.htm?zodis=leginsai&id=33 [accessed 2020-04-15]. 21 Here and below in examples emphasized by the author. 22 See https://stilano.lt/drabuziai-moterims-leginsai-ir-tampres [accessed 2020-07-01]. 23 Vincas Urbutis, a researcher of word formation, has written that “in the present Lithuanian language there are no less nouns of ending formation than compound nouns and far more than nouns made with prepositions” (Urbutis 1961: 28). 179Terminology | 2020 | 27 repuoti. It was disbanded around 1995. They were not only used by rappers, but also by revivalists. It was the perfect garment and symbol to tell the rockers, the urlagans and the metalists who you are.”52 This new word is also presented in NSDB53. This is the original form of lenara (but it does not specify the language). It can be found in Loreta Vaicekauskienė’s book Naujieji lietuvių kalbos svetimžodžiai: kalbos politikos ir vartosena (Vaicekauskienė 2007: 284). According to DLKT, the word lenarai among other clothing names is mentioned in Jurgis Kunčino book Blanchisserie, arba Žvėrynas-Užupis (1997). Meggins. The name "meggings" was derived from the English word meggings, which was derived from the English words male, "man" and leggings, "leggings". It is also a contamination form that has come into English as a loanword. It is called men's leggings (UD, CED). This name is rarely used. A search in the Google search engine found a case where a possible Lithuanian equivalent is synonymously presented: megingsai, arba vyriškos aptemptukės54. As already mentioned, the word "sleeveless" has not spread in usage. Apparently, it would be possible to use the two-word name of Lithuanian origin vyriškos tamprės, cf. moteriškos tamprės instead of the foreign term megingsai. OBLIGATIONS. The non-normal name of trousers is usually used in free styles, cf. Russian. обтяжки, also cf. Russian. в обтяжку "tight, tight, tightly fitting to the body (about a garment)" (RLKŽ 1983: 446). The Russian-Lithuanian Dictionary of Goods by J. Pričinauskas states that обтяжки – pantyhose, tights (RLKPŽ 1996: 281). In language tips we find a recorded spelling variant obtiaškės, instead of which it is suggested to use tamprės (KP L1 2005: 83). This loan differs from the others in that it was taken from the Russian language – recently new words are actively borrowed from English. In the database of new words, as already discussed, tight trousers can also be called tights, tights, tights and tights. Since the name obtiažkės is used in the non-scientific sphere, terminological nominativity is not even possible here. It is completely unnecessary for clothing terminology. 52 See https://www.facebook.com/xfaktorius/posts/1610624642384624/ [accessed 2020-05-25]. 53 See http://nsdb.sociolingvistika.lt/zodziai.htm?zodis=lenarai&id=2026 [accessed 2020-04-15]. 54 See https://www.zmones.lt/video/megingsai-arba-vyriskos-aptemptukes.46046cb9-94ca-11e8-9f90aa000054c883# [accessed 2020-04-04], https://www.15min.lt/gyvenimas/naujiena/mada/keisciausios-mados-idejos-1032-355408 [accessed 2020-04-04]. 180 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | New names for trousers. The name is used to refer to "wide, narrow-heeled trousers, usually worn with a kamizu in South Asia" from the word šalvār "trousers". In the database of new (Naujažodžių duomenynas). Žodis šalvarai, kaip ir jo variantas šarovarai55, paprastai vartojamas kalbant apie slavų kraštų realijas, kilo iš persų kalbos words, the following is indicated: English transliterates salwar, shalwar, shalvar; Rus. шаровары. The variant sharovarai is also found in international dictionaries (TŽZ 2001: 717; TŽZ 2007: 1059; TŽZ 2013: 790). The word is derived from the Persian language, but it has been acquired through language intermediaries: рус. шаровары < hungarian. Salavári < Persian šalvār "trousers". The Russian dictionary of clothing states that the word came into Russian from the Turkish šalvar (Russian: шалвар), and the latter from the Persian language56. It also has a Lithuanian counterpart, platkelnės. There is no new name for the trousers in the AATŽ, but in the dictionary we find the term platkelnės, which refers to “long wide trousers with sudden creases, part of the national dress of some eastern peoples, e.g. Ukrainians” (AATŽ 2014: 318), i.e. essentially the same trousers, but with a different name. Thus, the loan word is replaced by the word of its origin. Tregings. It is borrowed from the English language, as are jeggings and megings. The English word treggings is also a contamination derived from the English words trousers "trousers" and leggings "leggings". It is, as already mentioned, called in the Naujažodžiai database “tight stretch fabric trousers; combination of tights and trousers’. In the notes of this Naujažodžių database we find the entry that “instead of foreignness VLKK proposes to use Lithuanian equivalents tampkelnės, timpkelnės; išeivijos vartosenoje siūlomos kelnės”. SUMMARY. This article discusses the new names of trousers borrowed from other languages (mainly from English). In the dictionaries of clothing terms, only capri and kimonos are found. As you can see, borrowing some names of trousers, the unusual for our language way of making (model) is also taken over – contamination: jeggings, meggings and treggings. According to the way of their appearance in Lithuanian, they are borrowed from English, where the words jeggings, meggings and treggings appeared as a result of contamination rezul55 VLEe writes: „šarovãrai (Russian: šarovary, Hungarian: salavári < Persian: šalvār – trousers), platkelnės – long wide men’s and women’s trousers, gathered at the ankles. Worn mainly in Eastern countries (Iran, India), Ukraine, etc. Russia. Sarovars are part of the national costume of some peoples” (see https:// www.vle.lt/Straipsnis/sarovarai-91620 [accessed 2020-04-05]). 56 See http://modnaya.ru/articles/dictionary/glossary-of-clothing/fc/slovar-216.htm#zag-1645. Users of such names of non-Lithuanian origin, apparently, do not care about the suitability and correctness of the names. They take the easiest route – they use a borrowed term. It should be noted that other languages 2020-04-15]. 181Terminologija | 2020 | 27 also use names of foreign origin instead of non-Lithuanian names cigaretės, činai, denimai, kapriai, kiulotai, kulotės, lenarai, šalvarai. It does not forget that the borrowing of non-Lithuanian names is inevitable. It is quite another thing to take them in and use them. DENOMINATIONS OF MIXED ORIGIN Jeans. This copulative compound word of mixed origin, or conjugated word57, most likely originated in translation from English, cf. jeggings < jeans + leggings, and is composed of the Lithuanian word tamprės and the international word džinsai (English: jeans “the fabric of jeans”). This word is not in LKŽe, DŽ and BŽ. In the New Testament, it is referred to as "the mouth of the angels". Thus, one word tries to identify two characteristics – that the pants are both jeans and leggings. It should be said that stretch jeansterminologically ambiguous name, because it can be explained in another way, namely: jeans that stretch. Thus, based on the definition of the New Words Database, these pants could be called the generic term denim tights. Timp's jeans. In the New Words Database, timpjins are defined in the same way as tampjins: "jeans-imitating tights". This name is of mixed origin, copulative, wrongly motivated. It is probably derived from the English word jeggings. Only composed of the non-basic normative variant of timpa and the international word jeans. This word is not in LKŽe, DŽ and BŽ. SUMMARY. The new words tampdžinsiai and timpdžinsiai are derivatives that blindly repeat the composition of the English contaminative jeggings, i.e., they have arisen from the translation of the English contaminative jeggings. After thoroughly finding out what distinguishes the pants, finding an obvious distinctive feature, you should use one of them. In the terminology of any field, including clothing, a single name is much more convenient than a binary one. But it must be precise, motivated. In this case, the accuracy of the value is lacking. 57 St. Keinys writes that the conjunctives of the conjunctives “do not explain each other, do not define each other, are equivalent” (Keinys 1999: 71). According to the Kalbotyros terminų žodynas, a copulative compound word, or a joined compound word, is a “compound word whose parts are equally independent in terms of both grammatical relationship and meaning” (KTŽ 1990: 196). In the Academic Grammar of Lithuanian, it is stated that the things said by the elements of the copulative compound nouns “are approximately equally close to the intermediate thing denoted by the compound word” (LKG 1965: 441). 182 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | New names for trousers CONCLUSIONS 1. Over time, terms become obsolete, new terms or their microsystems appear. Language usage and the increasing number of the small semantic part of clothing terminology – new pants names – (23 new words) recorded in the New Words Database, shows that the existing and long-used pants names presented in clothing term dictionaries are no longer sufficient, and the semantic group of said names is becoming less clearly defined and isolated part of clothing terminology due to various linguistic and extralinguistic factors. Thus, the terminology of clothing is changing, renewing, constantly improving, becoming modern. 2. New words may be divided into the following groups according to their origin: 2.1. names of Lithuanian origin (39 %): aptemptukai, aptemptukės, glaudinės, kelninės, sijonkelnės, tampkelnės, tamprės, timpos, tįskelnės, which are made according to the example of the word used in Lithuanian language or used in a new meaning; 2.2. names of non-Lithuanian origin (52 %): cigaretės, činai, denimai, džegingsai, kapriai, kiulotai, kulotės, lenarai, megingsai, obtiažkės, šalvarai, tregingsai; 2.3. names of mixed origin (9 %): tamdžinsiai, timpdžinsiai, which appeared in our language during translation. 3. the same thing is named differently: instead of English leggings is used aptemptukai, aptemptukės, obtiažkės, tamprės, timpos; instead of treggings – kalninės, tampkelnės, tregingsai; instead of culottes – kiulotai, kulotės and suknelės, and instead of jeggings – jegingsai, tampdžinsiai, timpdžinsiai. Most likely, this happens unconsciously, due to the influence of clothing terminology in English. Such a surplus of names, resulting from language contacts, indicates not only the imperfection of terminology, but also an attempt to organize it. 4.Glaudinės, kapriai, kiulotai, suknelės, tamprės – dress terms approved by VLKK, recorded in the Naujažodžių database. Aptemptukai, aptemptukės, kelninės, tampjinsiai, timpjinsiai, tįskelnės, etc., the new names of trousers discussed in the article show that the society is creative and can, if necessary, create new clothing names using the powers of the Lithuanian language. However, the same standardization and management requirements apply to the subsystem of pants names – the name must be systematic, purposefully used, regular, logical, aesthetic and clear. 183Terminology | 2020 | 27 SOURCES AATŽ – Stanislovas Algimantas Ratautas, Eugenija Strazdienė, Ada Gulbinienė. 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THE NEW NAMES OF PANTS Summary The article addresses a small semantic group of the terms of clothing – 23 new names of trousers or pants. The research material comes from the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms (hereinafter – Database of Neologisms). The aim of the article is to discuss the origin and semantics of the new names of trousers or pants based on the material of the above source. It was found that the Database of Neologisms is dominated by the names of foreign origin, which account for as many as 52 per cent (cigaretės, činai, denimai, džegingsai, kapriai, kiulotai, kulotės, lenarai, megingsai, obtiažkės, šalvarai, tregingsai). The percentage of the names of Lithuanian origin is smaller; they make up 39 per cent (aptemptukai, aptemptukės, glaudinės, kelninės, sijonkelnės, tampkelnės, tamprės, timpos, tįskelnės). The names of mixed origin are the least common, accounting for 9 per cent (tampdžinsiai, timpdžinsiai). It should be noted that the words of different origin are used to name the same thing: instead of English leggings, aptemptukai, aptemptukės, obtiažkės, tamprės, timpos are used; in place of English treggings, kelninės, tampkelnės, tregingsai are used; In English, the term "jeggings" is replaced with "džegingsai", "tempdžinsiai" or "tempdžinsiai" in Lithuanian. This process is most likely unconscious due to the influence of English terminology. Such a surplus of names resulting from language contacts does not only show the imperfection of terminology but also an attempt to organise it. The emergence of the new terms for trousers or pants shows that the available names of trousers or pants used since the old times and established in the dictionaries of the terms of clothing are no longer sufficient. As a result of various linguistic and extralinguistic factors, the semantic group of the names of trousers or pants is becoming a not so clearly defined and isolated part of the terminology of clothing. Retrieved 2020-06-12. Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė Lietuvių kalbos institutas P. Vileišio g. 5, LT-10308 Vilnius, Lithuania Email: [email protected]