Dėl trijų skolinių iš italų kulinarijos

308 LANGUAGE CULTURE | 82 STEFANO M. LANZA Vytauto Didžiojo universitetas The violence of a language is not that it rejects the foreign, but that it devours it. J. W. Goethe Language is strong not because it rejects all that is foreign, but because it swallowes what is foreign. J. V. Goethe ON THE THREE DEBTORS This article discusses three new names of Italian dishes that have recently become popular in Lithuania: calzone, carpaccio and tiramisù. None of them is presented in the Dictionary of Contemporary Lithuanian or in the international dictionaries of words (TŽŽ 2001 or VV TŽŽ 2003). There are no records about them in the consultation banks of the State Lithuanian Language Commission or the Lithuanian Language Institute, nor are there any recommendations from linguists. In written language, they are usually found in restora nų valgia writings. From there, carpaccio and tiramisù were included in Albina Šiupienė’s favorite booklet “To the aid of menu organizers” published in 2005, just like Italian pava dini mai. They were not considered as possible borrowings, their contribution to the Lithuanian language remained untouched, and were translated in a descriptive way: raw beef snack (Italian: carpaccio di manzo) and green salmon snack (Italian: carpaccio di salmone) and coffee cake (Italian: tiramisù) (Šiupienienė 2005: 97, 100). In the theoretical literature of onomastics, three types of naming (as a name action) are traditionally distinguished: a) when a word already present in the language system is a comma for a new object (borrowing of meaning); b) when a new word is created using the resources of one’s own language (newword); c) when the model of a foreign language is adapted to the system of one’s own language, by more or less changing the expression of the original phonetically, morphologically (borrowing) (see Grzega 2003: 22). S. M. LANZA. For three borrowed from Italian cuisine 309 The descriptive description of the new reality is the initial stage of the cognitive process. It simply explains what the new reality is. If descriptive word combinations are perceived as lexical units, it is possible to consider the description of a new word as a primitive process of creating a new word. Descriptive compounds are primitive for two main reasons: 1) they are inconvenient to use – compounds of two or more words to name one concept contradict the principle of linguistic eco-forestry; 2) they are rarely accurate enough: a raw beef snack can be a dish that is not an Italian carpaccio at all; more precisely (but also much more mouth-watering) would be such an Italian snack of raw beef loin or salmon fillet1; even more sharp, and therefore inappropriate to call Italian tiramisù, is coffee cake2. Language standardization guidelines have been in place for a long time3, and the following principles approved by the Lithuanian Language Commission are now used: 1) not to accept equivalents of borrowed words that can be replaced by native Lithuanian words; 2) Lithuanianize borrowed words, if it is not possible to replace them with their own words (cf. 2007 General Criteria for the Nomination of New Debts). Which is more appropriate to use – a borrowed word or a lexical unit of Lithuanian form (already existing or a newly created word), is to be decided after examining the borrowed words themselves, their structure, their use4, their relationship with the system (cf. Pupkis 2005: 252). C A L Z O N E In Italian, calzone (pronounced [kal’tsone]5) is a special type of pizza. On the dough of the skritouli (pizza pa floor) is first put the filling. Then the dough circle is perlen kiamas, and the two sides obtained along the edges are glued together1 A. Šiupienienės proposed “terms” do not comply with the principles of language economy and consistency prince-Šiupienienės proposed “terms” do not comply with the principles of language economy and consistency: the same carpaccio is interpreted as a snack if it is made of meat, and as a snack if it is made of fish. 2 In the traditional recipe of this sweet, coffee is far from the main ingredient. 3 For a brief history of Lithuanian language standardization, see Pupkis 2005: 251–252. 4 Unless otherwise specified, this article is based on data from the pages found by Google’s search engine. Quantitatively, Google statistics are unreliable: they are merely an approximate count of pages (by the way, the results of the same query differ when using other search tools, even if the same query is made with the same tool but from different countries). However, Google is very helpful when it comes to finding examples of usage, because the pages shown are indisputable linguistic facts. Furthermore, the language of the Internet is so diverse that the results obtained are not only examples of written language (on the special characteristics of the language of the Internet, see especially Crystal 2001). 5 Pronunciation here and hereafter is according to the international IPA transcription. 310 LANGUAGE CULTURE | 82 mos. The resulting crescent-shaped dish is placed in the oven. In the 17th century, when the word calzone was first recorded (according to DELI 1999), the puffed pastry of this shape resembled the puffed upper part of the pants (Italian calzone, pronounced cazone). R. Andreoli, the author of the Vocabolario napoletano-italiano (Neapolitan-Italian dictionary) published in 1877, explains: "[calzone] is such a stuffed flatbread, the shape of which resembles a trouser's knit at the thigh, and which it will be appropriate to continue to call by its name calzone." There is no word in modern Lithuanian that corresponds exactly to Italian calzone. Therefore, according to the above-mentioned principles, it must be lithuanized or replaced by a Lithuanian phrase. In oral usage, it is often heard talking about calcone or calcone, but written in such an adapted form is extremely rare6. It seems that the phonetic structure of the borrowed word is quite clear to Lithuanian speakers, the pronunciation of the original is fairly accurately reproduced. This may also be the reason why – in the absence of a general language norm – people are more often satisfied with authentic spelling, e.g. : Really delicious pizzas, especially calzone; You can also bake a closed “calzone” type pizza; How the Italians treat calzone pizza; The dough for stuffed pizza (calzone) is prepared the same way. As can be seen from the examples, the Italian word is often accompanied by some explanation of its meaning, e.g. : Ham and pineapple calzone (folded pizza); Calzone (uždara pica): sūris, kumpis, pievagrybiai, „salsa“, svogūnai, grietinė; Calcone – you will instantly improve your opinion about pizzas! it is a closed pizza; Vegetarian „Calcone“ 13,90 lt folded pizza with eggplant, spinach filling; Perlenktoji / Calzone. sauce, cheese, ham, mushrooms, peppers. Although few examples have been found in general, it is noteworthy that there is already more than one descriptive statement in the port node, e.g.: stuffed pizza, overfolded pizza, overcurved (pizza), closed pizza. As terms could fit at least noun forms, for example, mentioned over curved pizza. In other languages, calzone takes over as a loanword, e.g. : Tasty, economical and easy to fix, a calzone would make a fine lunch or dinner sandwich; Calzone is a stuffed pizza; Who can resist an Italian pizza, a well-filled calzone? ; How good the calzone with a cold beer…; The spelling is often phonetically unadapted, but the word is morphologically correct na6 Found in calcone, calzone, calcone, calcioni. Morphologically, the species has not been identified. и нет – кальцоне, это не что иное, как одна из разно вид ностей пиццы7. 7 Sometimes calzone is used in combination with pizza, e.g. : a pizza calzone, eine Pizza Calzone, une pizza calzone. S. M. LANZA. For three borrowings from Italian cuisine 311 mas, plg.: two calzones; two large calzones; shorts; the pants8. How much the kinship fluctuates even in examples of the same language. In German and French, the feminine gender forms prevail, in Spanish calzone is found alone, but it should be admitted that calzone is not a pizza, but a peculiar baked goods. Instead of the tik vyriškosios giminės, o rusiškai niekatrosios giminės. Sprendžiant, koks turi būti lietuviškas it. calzone pavadinimas, pirmiausia linguistically non-icon forest and meaningally inaccurate compound perfolded pizza, it is proposed to support the adapted loanword calcòné9, which already occurs in usage. The Latinized name is more suitable for naming the realities of foreign countries than the own equivalent, and in addition, systematically it fits with other non-Lithuanian dishes named Janti borrowings (see pizza). C A R P A C C I O Carpaccio (pronounced [karpat’tʃo]) is essentially a symbolic name of a dish: it has no semantic connection with the ingredients of the dish, it does not describe its composition. As rare, the date and even the place of the appearance of this word is known. In Venice in 196310, Giuseppe Cipriani, the eccentric owner of Harry’s bar, came up with a new dish for a discerning customer who could not resist eating either cooked or fried meat. The thin marinated slices of green beef were named after the city’s current events. From June to October of that year there was an exhibition of paintings by the famous painter Vittore Carpaccio. The artist's name became the commemorative name of the dish. This purely causal form later, with the popularity of the calf itself and its production method, became established in the lexical system. Abroad, carpaccio spread as an exotism and a culinary term (it was already recorded in the French GR in 1973 and in the English OED in 1974). 8 In Russian, the word кальцоне appears unchanged, pg. : For Calzone I don't like it very much крутое тесто без опары; Разница с кальцоне опять же в размере и принципе жарки. 9 It is true that, for some reasons, the variant calcòn would be more appropriate. It is phonetically more accurate because the Italian calzone final [n] is not soft. In addition, calcon retains the original genus (Italian calzone is precisely a masculine g.) and is more regular than other Italian borrowings (e.g. balcone > balkonas, cartone > kartonas, vasone > vazonas). However, the Italian ending -e is more naturally associated with the Lithuanian feminine -ė, and here probably works the analogy with the feminine genus pizza, so the form calconė should be more promising. 10 All Italian dictionaries show this year. Some online sources indicate different years and tell different circumstances of the origin and name of this dish. 312 LANGUAGE CULTURE | 82 The correspondent of Lietuvos rytas from Italy, writing (2006 06 12) in an article about carp, ironically stated: “[I]m imagining, Lithuanian language purifiers, apparently, are already considering how to translate this Italian foreignness more accurately, after all, it has nothing to do with carp. [...] this time our language purifiers should stay as a fly bitten, because almost all Lithuanian restaurants currently offer a dish named after a famous painter. And to distort names is a very bad thing.”11 This sort of sketchy humour is probably due to the cumbersome descriptive compounds mentioned here earlier. In fact, we do not need them. Moreover, there is nothing to translate. When a proper name is made into a generic noun, it is common not to create a substitute, but simply to adapt a borrowed one, e.g. begonia (from the surname of the amateur botanist M. Begon), carnotite (from the surname of the French mineralogist M. A. Carn), keynesianism (from the surname of the English economist J. M. Keynes), volta (from the surname of the Italian physicist A. Volta), etc. The question is which form of debt is the most appropriate. Since the painter’s surname is adapted as Karpãčas, the name of the dish should be – morphologically12 – karpačas. However, in the usage, the carp is rare. In addition to many unadapted examples of carpaccio use, other more or less Lithuanianized variants have been found, e.g. : As soon as this place opened – fascinated by the wonderful carpathian; we cut the carp in very thin slices and put directly on the plate; wine does not go too well with salted and fresh salmon carpaccio13; it is worth mentioning the beef and salmon carpaccio, which are somewhat unconventionally served as a salad. It is often used as a substitute for the sodium chloride. There are only a few examples of the form karpačas, and the mentioned noun karpačiu (what would be the noun? – karpačis, karpačias?) is a single case of use. Partially Lithuanianized and completely non-Lithuanised forms cannot be regarded as normative according to the above-mentioned principles. The prevalence of the form karpačio (with i) is probably due to some similarity with the origi nalo spelling and the fact that in Lithuanian the soft [tʃ] before the vowels of the back row – especially before o – is much more common than the hard one. The advantage of the rarer form of karpach (without i) is its morphological form. Recently, the adaptation of borrowed words with the muffled [tʃ] (and the screaming [dʒ]) has not been consistent. The traditional spelling capriccio (< capriccio) was abandoned and replaced by capriccio or 11 Quite paradoxically, in the same article the correspondent called the bartender Giovanni instead of Giuseppe, and the painter Vittorio instead of Vittore. 12 On the necessity of morphological adaptation plg. 2007: 186–187. 13 This is the only example found in the VDU text. S. M. LANZA. For three borrowings from Italian cuisine 313 ma. Not only does the unchangeable word of the -o ending karpačio not contradict the norms of kapričas (TŽŽ 1985, TŽŽ 2001)14, – bet paliktas solfedžio (< solfeggio). Kai vartosena neprieštarauja vidinėms kalbos taisyklėms, ji turėtų būti palaikoLithuanian language (cf. DLKG4 2006: 82), but it is systematically suitable for solfeggio and for capriccio, which should be returned to the norm. It is proposed to use the form karpãčio of the masculine gender with constant pronunciation (cf. DLKG4 2006: 64). T I R A M I S Ù There are various recipes for the traditional Italian dessert tiramisù (pronounced [tirami’su]). According to the first dictionary that recorded the word (Zingarelli 1983), it is “a semi-cold sweet made of mascarpone15, eggs and sugar, covered with a layer of cocoa on a biscuit base”. How do tiramisù originated is not known, but dictionaries agree on the first date of fixation – 1980. The name is composed of two words tirami su16, which literally translates as “lift me up”. Considering the figurative tirare of the verb compound with the meaning “to raise someone’s mood, to restore strength”, the purpose of this de serte is to revive. When judging theoretically, what could be the Lithuanian equivalent of tiramisu, it should be clear that it is meaningless to translate such a name for the dish (and no translations have been proposed so far, it seems). And concerning the usefulness of descriptive pronouns, this article has already raised doubts: they are rarely sufficiently accurate, not convenient to use, and therefore are difficult to acquire in language practice. All this is confirmed and used by old facts. The unchanged form tiramisu has already established itself in Lithuanian, although sometimes Tiramisu is still written in capital letters as a symbolic name. Some examples are found in almost all the funnies, plg. : Tiramisu is made simply, it will take only 30 min. ; every cafe has a different taste of tiramisu; tiramisu need to be allowed to rest; before serving tiramisu palai14 The form capriccio as the Italian pronunciation of capriccio is already found in the 1936 International Dictionary of Words. Citing the decision of the Lithuanian Language Commission, A. Pakerys also disagreed with the form kapričo (1991: 5). 15 The form maskarponė (< it. mascarpone) is already given as normative (Girčienė, Liutkevičienė 2008: 117). However, in some respects, mascarpone would be more accurate (see the arguments for calzone in footnote 9). 16 The two-word spelling of the name (tirami su), which is still used in Italian dictionaries, is no longer used. 314 LANGUAGE CULTURE | 82 keep it in the fridge for 4 hours; for dessert, she prefers sweet tiramisu; when will you come with tira misu?. In oral language, I have heard [tira’misu] pronounced in Lithuanian, but there is no linguistic basis to support this pronunciation, regardless of the place of the origi nalo accent. In addition, the final pronunciation is typical of the borrowed words with the ending -u, e.g.: intervistù, kakadù, menuù, reviù, tabù, etc. In Lithuanian there is no suitable substitute for the borrowed tiramisu. The word tiramisu refers to a special reality of another country’s culture, as a loanword it is widely used in other world languages17, and its phonetic and morphological structure does not contradict the Lithuanian language’s grammatical norms. As with other Lithuanian borrowings with the accentuated final -ù, it cannot be varied (cf. DLKG4 2006: 82), its gender is masculine (cf. DLKG4 2006: 64), and the conjugation is constant. CONCLUSIONS When the need arises to name a new reality in Lithuanian, its name in the language of origin can be replaced by its own substitute or accepted as a loan adapted to the phonetic and morphological system of the Lithuanian language. Traditional dishes of other countries are foreign to Lithuanians, as are their names to Lithuanian, so it does not seem appropriate to propose a new word for them. All the more so because they are spread as borrowings in usage, and when usage does not contradict the inner rules of language, it should be supported. It is desirable to adapt borrowed words phonetically to the pronunciation of the language from which they come and to form them morphologically, avoiding variation of forms. On the basis of these principles, the following three forms of Italian dish names are proposed for use: calcòne (second syllable, feminine), carpãccio (fixed, masculine) and tiramisù (fixed, masculine). 17 This can be easily verified by going to the tiramisu Wikipedia entry page on the internet. S. M. LANZA. For three borrowed from Italian cuisine 315 LITERATŪRA Andreol i R. 1877: Vocabolario napoletano-italiano, Torino. Cr ystal D. 2001: Language and the Internet, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. DELI 1999 tt.: Dizionario etimologico della lingua italiana, Bologna: Zanichelli. DLKG4 2006: Dabartinės lietuvių kalbos gramatika. Red. V. Ambrazas, Vilnius: Lietuvių kalbos institutas, Mokslo ir enciklo pedijų leidybos institutas. Girčien ė J., Liutkevičienė D. 2008: Sūrių pavadinimų vartosena ir norma. – Kalbos kultūra 80, 110–122. GR 1973 tt.: Le Grand Robert de la langue française, Paris: Le Robert. Grzega J. 2003: Borrowing as a Word-finding process in cognitivie historical onomasiology. – Onomasiology Online 4, 23–32. OED 1974 tt.: The Oxford English dictionary, Oxford: OUP. Paker ys A. 1991: Tarptautinių žodžių kirčiavimas, Kaunas: Šviesa. Pupkis A. 2005: Kalbos kultūros studijos, Vilnius: Gimtasis žodis. Šiupien ienė A. 2005: Į pagalbą valgiaraščių tvarkytojams, Vilnius: Ciklonas. TŽŽ 1985: Tarptautinių žodžių žodynas, Vilnius: Vyriausioji enciklopedijų redakcija. TŽŽ 2001: Tarptautinių žodžių žodynas, Vilnius: Alma littera. Vaicekauskienė L. 2007: Naujieji lietuvių kalbos svetimžodžiai, Vilnius: Lietuvių kalbos institutas. VV TŽŽ 2003: V. Vaitkevičiūtė. Tarptautinių žodžių žodynas (elektroninis leidimas). Zingarelli N. 198310: Vocabulary of the Italian language, Bologna: Zanichelli. Received 14/12/2009 ON THREE BORROWINGS FROM ITALIAN CUISINE Summary The paper discusses three Italian borrowings which have recently become very popular in Lithuania; they refer to the dishes calzone, carpaccio and tiramisù. On the basis of onomasiologic research and the criteria adopted for standardising borrowings, each of the above borrowings is analysed from several points of view: language history, semantics, morphological structure, usage and relation with the Lithuanian language system. When adapting the borrowing, it should be decided which is better: a morphologically and phonetically adapted (to Lithuanian) unit or a Lithuanian lexical unit. 316 LANGUAGE CULTURE | 82 It is generally held that to refer to foreign realia, the adapted variant is more suitable than the native equivalent. Moreover, the words like calzone, carpaccio and tiramisu usually spread in language like borrowings, and the users take efforts to grammatically adapt them (however, a large variety of forms has been noticed). When the actual usage does not violate the rules of the language system, it should be supported. After the analysis of each of the three words, the following forms have been suggested for use: kalcònė (2nd accentuation pattern, feminine gender), karpãčio (uninflected, masculine gender) and tiramisù (uninflected, masculine gender). STEFANO M. LANZA Vytauto Didžiojo universitetas K. Donelaičio g. 58, LT-44248 Kaunas, Lithuania [email protected]