Dress to Impress or Distress! The Value Conflict Behind Gen Z's Fast Fashion remorse

ABSTRACT Dress to Impress or Distress! The Value Conflict Behind Gen Z’s Fast Fashion remorse Dr. Richa Misra * Jaipuria Institute of Management, Noida, India [email protected] * Corresponding author Dr Rekha Attri Jaipuria Institute of Management Indore, India [email protected] Bijit Ghosh University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada [email protected] Dr. Ekta Aggarwal Gitarattan International Business School [email protected] The Retail and Marketing Review Volume 21, Issue 2, November 2025, Pages 171-187 Doi: https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.17556961 The purpose of the study is to investigate the factors determining Gen Z's intention to discontinue fast fashion (FF) brands. The conceptual model is based on cognitive dissonance theory and push-pull-mooring (PPM) framework. Young buyers in developing nations often experience remorse due to a conflict between their fashion aspirations and values. According to the results, ascribed responsibility (AR) significantly impacts buyer remorse (BR), whereas knowledge of greenwashing (KW) has no significant impact on BR. Both quality of product (QP) and social influence (SI), have a significant impact on BR. Environmental concern (EC) does not significantly influence BR. BR has a significant impact on both the willingness to pay for sustainable alternatives (SA) and the intention to discontinue fast fashion. Brands must prioritise social influence, community development, and accountability to align with the values of Generation Z. FF brands may reduce buyer's remorse by following sustainable methods and encouraging transparency in their marketing communications. Keywords: Fast fashion brands, cognitive dissonance theory, willingness to pay for sustainable alternatives, ascribed responsibility, greenwashing, Gen Z Dress to Impress or Distress! The Value Conflict Behind Gen Z’s Fast Fashion remorse 172 1. INTRODUCTION The fast fashion industry characterizes itself through the quick production of cheaper and trending garments. Market leaders like Zara and H&M have explored this model by offering runway-inspired styles at cheaper rates with extremely quick turnaround times (Bick et al., 2018). The fast fashion market was valued at over 106 billion U.S. dollars, with a projected increase to approximately 185 billion U.S. dollars in 2027 (Statista, 2023). Apart from being a popular trend, this has also resulted in a "throwaway" culture, where apparels are frequently disposed of after minimal use (Niinimäki et al., 2020). The FF sector has a substantial negative impact on the environment, contributing to approximately 10% of the world’s carbon emissions and ranking as the second-largest global consumer of water (Quantis, 2018). Being aware of the issues mentioned, a respectable proportion of consumers are switching to sustainable or "slow" fashion, which places importance on ethical labour and environmental practices, and the durability of the product (Fletcher, 2014). In the domain of FF, young customers may experience guilt following a purchase that contradicts with their values (Hinojosa et al., 2017). This often results in cognitive dissonance (CD). CD is defined as discrepancy between the values, such as sustainability and ethical buying, and actual purchase behaviour results. People are transitioning to sustainable fashions for various reasons like environmental concern, ethical work practice and product durability (Grazzini et al., 2021). Consumer also feel cheated when FF brand makes greenwashing (GW) claims. GW practices are when brand fail to deliver on their socially responsible initiatives, and mislead consumers (Jones, 2019). FF remorse is complex, as it involves the interaction of individual and societal values along with social acceptance and quality (Niinimäki et al., 2020). This research examines the factors that drive Gen Z consumers to switch from their fast fashion purchases. It focuses on the psychological mechanisms of cognitive dissonance resulting from awareness and concerns and the resulting buyer’s remorse. The age group known as Gen Z is born between 1997 and 2012. They are often called as digital natives, as they grew up in a time of fast technological innovation, widely spread internet and use of social media (Barhate & Dirani, 2022). This demographic frequently embraces trends at an early stage (Gazzola et al., 2020). Previous studies have indicated a discrepancy between attitudes and behaviours in Generation Z regarding fashion consumption. While they exhibit a preference for sustainable products compared to previous generations, 57% of Gen Z customers in emerging nations prioritise affordability and convenience over sustainability (McKinsey & Co., 2023). Other significant studies also indicated that although Generation Z is environmentally conscious, they frequently indulge in excessive shopping sprees (Ronda, 2024). Lastly the study context is India, characterised by the largest youth population globally and a rapidly expanding middle class. Research shows that more people in developing nations like Brazil, China, India, Mexico, and Russia are increasing their consumption of fast fashion apparel while developed nations like Canada, Germany, the UK, and the US are growing eight times slower than emerging ones (Remy et al., 2016). Responding to the call with respect to Gen Z attitudebehaviour gap, this study explores buyer remorse in the context of the fast-fashion industry, its effects, an analysis of Gen Z consumer behaviour, and potential resolutions to ethical challenges commonly encountered in the FF industry. The research focusses on the examination of push factors, such as ascribed responsibility (AR) and awareness of greenwashing (GW), pull factors like apparel quality and social influence, and mooring factors including environmental concerns. Collectively, these factors lead to increased post-purchase dissonance, resulting in buyer's remorse.BR is identified as a significant indicator of the willingness to pay for sustainable alternatives (Grazzini et al., 2021) and the intention to discontinue fast fashion (Rosely 173 The Retail and Marketing Review: Vol21 Issue 2 (2025) ISSN:2708-3209 et al., 2024). Consequently, the study evaluates willingness to invest in sustainable alternatives and the decision to shift away from fast fashion as response. The study presents the subsequent research questions derived from the argumentation. RQ1: Do factors such as ascribed responsibility, knowledge of greenwashing, quality of fast fashion apparel, social influence, and environmental concerns contribute to buyers' remorse towards fast fashion brands within the context of the PPM framework? RQ2: In what ways does the feeling of regret among the young generation influence their willingness to pay for sustainable alternatives and their intention to discontinue support for FF brands? This study deepens understanding of how the younger generation perceives fast fashion apparel, navigates ethical dilemmas, regrets purchasing inferior-quality products, and increases awareness of sustainable practices while managing social pressure and trends. 2. LITERATURE REVIEW AND CONCEPTUAL FRAMEWORK 2.1 COGNITIVE DISSONANCE AND BUYER’S REMORSE Cognitive dissonance theory posits that when individuals experience inconsistencies in their thoughts, beliefs, values, attitudes, and/or behaviors, they are motivated to change one or more of these cognitions to regain consistency and alleviate discomfort (Festinger, 1957). In general, the buying processes include the post-purchase evaluation stage, where customers assess their satisfaction or dissatisfaction after the consumption of product or service (Niinimäki et al., 2020).The post-purchase dissatisfaction often leads to the feelings of remorse which might be experienced in the form of regret or anxiety and may alter the future attitudes and behaviour of the consumer (Rosely et al., 2024). The recent focus on sustainability (Mukendi et al., 2020; Dabas & Whang , 2022) and the growing awareness of the adverse environmental and societal impacts by the fast fashion industry (Adamkiewicz et al., 2022; Farghaly et al., 2024) have prompted consumers to prefer sustainable products and gravitate towards slow, sustainable fashion over fast fashion brands (Grazzini et al., 2021; Busalim et al., 2022). Customers who engage with fast fashion may experience remorse for their consumption patterns and feel compelled to address the disparity between their cognitions and the discomfort associated with such overconsumption. To explore this phenomenon, we apply cognitive dissonance theory to identify the stimuli that contribute to buyer's remorse and examine the actions undertaken to mitigate the remorse resulting from cognitive dissonance. 2.2 PUSHPULL - MOORING (PPM) FRAMEWORK The PPM framework, which analyses human switching and shifting behaviour, has its roots in the migration literature. The PPM concept comprises three pertinent dimensions influencing a person’s intention to switch: firstly, the push dimension prompts individuals to discontinue their current choice; secondly, the pull elements encourage them to adopt an alternative option; and thirdly, mooring elements relate to social concerns that influence people to change their opinions (Hazen et al., 2017). Dress to Impress or Distress! The Value Conflict Behind Gen Z’s Fast Fashion remorse 174 2.3 PUSH FACTORS 2.3.1. Ascribed responsibility (AR) Prior research indicates that individuals who attribute responsibility for a specific global concern to themselves, known as internal ascription of responsibility, are more likely to address the problem (De Groot & Steg, 2009). When an individual perceives a detrimental outcome for others and attributes accountability for that outcome to them (ascription of responsibility), a corresponding personal norm is activated (Gao et al., 2017). In the fashion industry, marketers advertise about sustainable fashion on social media platforms to garner customer awareness, trust and favorable attitudes towards brands (Kong et al., 2021).Such sustainability related communications awaken a sense of responsibility in customers, prompting them to actively monitor their actions when making purchasing decisions (Grazzini et al., 2021). Customers quite often are encouraged to be environmentally conscious, consume wisely, and be aware of the malpractices followed by organizations which cause harm to the environment (Khalil & Adnan, 2021; Thakkar , 2021). As a result, customers tend to favour organizations that strive for sustainability and demonstrate environmental concern (Arslan, 2020). We suggest that when customers become aware of sustainable business practices, they develop a sense of responsibility to protect the environment. Consequently, when individuals having a heightened sense of ascribed responsibility encounter or learn about unethical practices by fashion brands, they may feel remorse. We therefore hypothesize that: H1: Ascribed responsibility towards the environment will increase the buyer’s remorse (BR) towards the consumption of fast fashion brands. 2.3.2 Knowledge of greenwashing (KG) Greenwashing (GW) exemplifies deceptive advertising and false sustainability claims that mislead consumers, investors, and the public, ultimately affecting trust and prompting decisions to switch brands (Al-sharouf & Naesae, 2022). Initially, the term greenwashing was applied within an environmental context, but in present times it includes a wider concept of sustainability that also covers social and ethical aspects (Promalessy & Handriana, 2024). Many organizations today engage in sustainability reporting which serve to draw attention of customers who care for the environment (Kaur et al., 2022). However, many consumers lack awareness of greenwashing practices, resulting in a gap between their environmental beliefs and their real fashion purchasing behaviours (Hesse & Rundau, 2023). Hesse and Rundau (2023) opined that if customers are educated about the detrimental effect of brands engaged in greenwashing, their attitude towards such brands would be negative. Prior research on fast fashion has highlighted the prevalence of greenwashing practices; however, the literature does not fully explore how awareness of these practices influences consumer guilt. We propose that when consumers learn about greenwashing in the fast fashion industry, they are likely to feel remorse over their purchases. Therefore, we hypothesize that: H2: Knowledge of greenwashing will increase the buyer’s remorse (BR) towards the consumption of fast fashion brands. 2.4 PULL FACTORS 2.4.1 Quality of fast fashion products (QP) Numerous fast fashion brands create products with a lifespan limited to fewer than ten uses, and they tend to deteriorate quickly due to low quality (McNeill & Moore, 2015). The poor quality of garments produced by fast fashion results in their quick disposal by customers, which increases waste and the cycle of consumers purchasing fast fashion brands to refresh their wardrobes continues (Camargo et al., 2020). Long and Nasiry (2022) reported that while 175 The Retail and Marketing Review: Vol21 Issue 2 (2025) ISSN:2708-3209 implementation of waste disposal policies and production taxes could help reduce a company’s leftover inventory, but these measures might inadvertently lead to lower product quality, potentially increasing the firm’s environmental impact. Reports suggest that excessive purchasing of fast fashion brands also leads to a range of consumer behaviors, including hoarding (Mrad et al., 2020), sharing with friends and family, donating to charity, selling online, or swapping items (Agbebo, 2020), all of which indicate a sense of dissatisfaction with these purchases. Researchers have identified poor quality as the main reason behind the high return rates of fast fashion apparel (Guo et al., 2020). We assume that such behaviors of customers linked to FF brands are indicative of buyer’s remorse upon experiencing a sub-standard quality, and therefore we hypothesize that: H3: Low quality of fast fashion brands will increase the buyer’s remorse (BR) towards the consumption of these brands. 2.4.2. Social influence (SI) Social influence leads individuals to transgressive consumption situations which they might regret at a later stage and experience post purchase dissonance (Martins et al., 2024). Fast fashion (FF) consumption is often fuelled by the satisfaction of gaining others’ approval, the need to conform within social groups, and the persistent dissatisfaction with current possessions (Shah & Asghar, 2023). Many consumers exhibit ‘flexible’ consumption habits, as they occasionally choose ethical options, such as buying second-hand, while still purchasing fast fashion at times which might be either due to easy availability at low price or to be a part of the social group (Bröcher, 2022). Furthermore, according to Rosely et al. (2024), the presence of social media live streaming platforms has led to wasteful consumption, as the strong sense of connection experienced during such live streams, compels consumers to engage in extravagant, irrational and impulse purchasing behaviors, particularly in fast fashion. However, study conducted by Tran (2020) did not report a positive relationship between the social media marketing and purchase decisions for fast fashion brands. Bläse et al. (2024) reported that the fear of missing out (FOMO) directly impacts consumers’ intentions to purchase fast fashion products. Research on fast fashion brands has indicated that social influence shapes consumer behavior; however, the literature lacks discussion on whether social influences leads to feelings of guilt and regret. While numerous studies have pointed out towards the social circle of consumer influencing purchasing FF brands, studies on how social influence can deter consumers to buy fast fashion brands is lacking in literature. Thus we hypothesize that: H4: The social influence (SI) may increase the buyer’s remorse (BR) towards the consumption of fast fashion brands. 2.5 MOORING FACTORS 2.5.1 Environmental concerns (EC) EC signifies the degree to which individuals grasp environmental challenges and are committed to addressing them through activities like reusing and recycling, purchasing eco-friendly products, and supporting environmental initiatives (Wang et al., 2021). Consumers exhibit their EC by avoiding the products manufactured or distributed by unethical organizations which exploit natural resources and emit toxic chemicals into the environment thereby harming it (Kim, 2018). The expressions like “anti-consumerism”, “sustainable consumption”, and “ethical consumption” frequently refer to consumer attitudes and behaviours related to resistance, boycotting, and choosing not to consume products that are detrimental to the environment either during their production or while consuming (Martin-Woodhead, 2022; Parvatiyar & Sheth, 2023). Individuals with low EC are less likely to participate in environmentally conscious behavior and pay more for sustainable products (Kautish & Sharma, 2020). Previous studies have indicated that customers' Dress to Impress or Distress! The Value Conflict Behind Gen Z’s Fast Fashion remorse 176 environmental consciousness negatively affects their intention to purchase fast fashion brands (Cairns et al., 2022; Guo et al., 2020). However, whether increased environmental awareness leads to buyer's remorse remains unexplored in fast fashion literature. To explore this relationship, we hypothesize that: H5: Environmental concerns (EC) will increase the buyer’s remorse (BR) towards the consumption of fast fashion brands. 2.5 WILLINGNESS TO PAY FOR SUSTAINABLE ALTERNATIVES AND FAST FASHION DISCONTINUATION INTENTION Sustainable fashion refers to clothing made using environmentally friendly raw materials and production methods that minimize pollution (Aschemann-Witzel & Stangherlin, 2021). Studies have reported that environmental concerns and perceived value of sustainable products positively impact the willingness of customers to pay for sustainable products (Dangelico et al., 2022). However Lavuri (2022) stated that the price of a product can influence a consumer's intention to purchase it and it is not necessary that the consumers who express environmental concerns would buy green or sustainable products. On similar lines Feuß et al. (2022) reported that those who profess to care about the environment may not engage in environmentally friendly purchasing behaviors if green products are priced higher than conventional ones. Verbal and visual nudges on retailers’ websites serve to create awareness amongst customers to opt for sustainable fashion (Roozen et al., 2021). While buyers are concerned about the opinions of others regarding their purchases which shapes their future attitudes and behaviours (Agarwal et al., 2021), there is lack of knowledge whether the remorse arising from fast fashion purchases positively impacts the buyers’ willingness to pay for sustainable fashion brands. Since, the relationship between buyer’s remorse arising of fast fashion consumption, the willingness to pay for sustainable fashion and the discontinuation intention is not explored extensively in prior studies, we hypothesize that: H6: Buyer’s remorse will increase the willingness to pay for sustainable alternatives. H7: The willingness to pay for sustainable alternatives will increase the buyer’s fast fashion discontinuation intention. H8: Buyer’s remorse will increase the buyer’s fast fashion discontinuation intention. Based on the extant review of literature and the hypotheses developed for the study we propose the conceptual model as depicted in Figure 1. 177 The Retail and Marketing Review: Vol21 Issue 2 (2025) ISSN:2708-3209 FIGURE 1: CONCEPTUAL MODEL 3. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 3.1 RESEARCH MEASURES The conceptual framework includes eight constructs. The study employed the three-item measure of AR established by De Groot and Steg (2009). The five-item KG scale was developed based on the work of Schmuck et al. (2018). The perceived quality scale for fast fashion products was adopted from Choi et al. (2010), while the four-item scale of social influence was evaluated using a scale developed by Lee and Hong (2016). The methodology for evaluating EC was adapted from the work of Kim and Choi (2005). The willingness to pay for sustainable alternatives utilises a scale modified from Jang et al. (2011), a four-item scale for buyer's remorse (BR) is based on Sweeney et al. (1999) and used a three-item scale from Bhattacherjee and Lin (2014) to measure the discontinuation intention (DI) fast fashion brands (see Appendix 1). All the items were measured on a five-point scale where 1 means complete disagreement and 5 means complete agreement to the scale item. The study collected data via a cross-sectional survey using a non-probability based judgemental sampling method. As a non-probability sample does not select a sample on a random basis, the findings cannot be generalised to the entire population and often introduce bias. The Gen Z respondents are screened based on two criteria: Firstly, the awareness of fast fashion brands, and secondly, they have purchased an apparel or accessory from an FF brand in the last 6 months. G*Power 3 software was utilised to calculate the appropriate sample size (Tan & Ooi, 2018). A pilot study tested the questionnaire with 55 respondents. We effectively incorporated their suggestions regarding the language and length of the questionnaire. We administered 385 questionnaires and received 251 valid responses with a 65.19% response rate. Before collecting the data, an informed consent was obtained from all the respondents. The survey form also mentioned the academic objective and anonymous nature of the study. Dress to Impress or Distress! The Value Conflict Behind Gen Z’s Fast Fashion remorse 178 4. DATA ANALYSIS We examined the data with the PLS-SEM methodology proposed by Hair et al. (2022). PLS-SEM was chosen due to its appropriateness for complex models. It involves the two-stage procedures of data analysis, specifically the measurement and structural models. This approach is also suitable when the data distribution deviates from normality. CBS-SEM is preferable when the sample size is large, and the data distribution is normalised. 4.1 ASSESSMENT OF MEASUREMENT MODEL Table 1 presents the reliability of indicators, including internal consistency measured by Cronbach’s alpha and composite reliability, as well as convergent validity assessed through average variance extracted (AVE). The factor loadings of the indicators surpass the threshold criterion of 0.70 (Hair et al., 2022). The Cronbach's alpha and composite reliability values of all the measured constructs exceed the threshold of 0.70 (Henseler et al., 2016). The AVE value of all constructs exceeds 0.5, confirming convergent validity (Hair et al., 2022). TABLE 1. CONSTRUCTS RELIABILITY AND VALIDITY Construct Items Factor Loading Cronbach's alpha Composite Reliability Average variance extracted Ascribed Responsibility AR1 AR2 AR3 0.770 0.869 0.854 0.777 0.785 0.693 Knowledge of Greenwashing KG1 KG2 KG3 KG4 KG5 0.805 0.852 0.847 0.791 0.746 0.868 0.878 0.655 Quality of Products QP1 QP2 QP3 QP4 QP5 0.766 0.811 0.817 0.802 0.680 0.835 0.844 0.603 Social Influence SI1 SI2 SI3 SI4 0.850 0.843 0.852 0.769 0.848 0.853 0.687 Environmental Concern EC1 EC2 EC3 EC4 0.804 0.853 0.843 0.798 0.844 0.847 0.680 Buyer’s Remorse BR1 BR2 BR3 BR4 0.822 0.827 0.867 0.800 0.849 0.849 0.688 Willingness to Pay for Sustainable Alternatives SA1 SA2 SA3 SA4 SA5 0.791 0.746 0.775 0.742 0.774 0.824 0.826 0.586 Discontinuation Intention DI1 DI2 DI3 0.894 0.918 0.879 0.879 0.884 0.804 179 The Retail and Marketing Review: Vol21 Issue 2 (2025) ISSN:2708-3209 The HTMT criterion and the Fornell-Larcker criterion were the two criteria that were used to analyse the discriminant's validity. Table 2 shows that the square root of AVE for each latent variable is greater than its association with another latent variable (Fornell-Larcker, 1981). All the correlation values in Table 3 fall below the 0.90 threshold value as prescribed by Henseler et al. (2016). TABLE 2. FORNELL-LARCKER CRITERION AR BR EC DI KG QP SA SI Ascribed Responsibility 0.832 Buyer’s Remorse 0.580 0.830 Environmental Concerns 0.382 0.363 0.825 Discontinuation Intention 0.468 0.665 0.274 0.897 Knowledge of Greenwashing 0.444 0.407 0.585 0.341 0.809 Quality of Products 0.456 0.509 0.538 0.303 0.442 0.777 Sustainable Alternatives 0.460 0.591 0.482 0.413 0.469 0.483 0.766 Social Influence 0.490 0.634 0.365 0.489 0.413 0.526 0.714 0.829 TABLE 3. HTMT CRITERION AR BR EC DI KG QP SA SI Ascribed Responsibility Buyer’s Remorse 0.711 Environmental Concerns 0.467 0.426 Discontinuation Intention 0.563 0.767 0.321 Knowledge of Greenwashing 0.532 0.469 0.687 0.392 Quality of Products 0.569 0.599 0.645 0.35 0.523 Sustainable Alternatives 0.572 0.702 0.583 0.478 0.56 0.594 Social Influence 0.605 0.743 0.428 0.564 0.476 0.622 0.851 4.2 ASSESSMENT OF STRUCTURAL MODEL Table 4 displays the results of evaluating the relevance of path coefficients using the inner model. We infer the absence of collinearity, as the VIF values were below 3.33 (Hair et al., 2022). The R-square value was analysed to judge predictive power and found to be 0.515 for buyer’s remorse. The R -square value of buyer’s remorse is 0.515, indicating 51.5% variance in buyer’s remorse is due to AR, KG, QP, SI, and EC maintaining the threshold level (equal to or greater than 0.10) of R-squared values (Falk & Miller, 1992). 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