The formulation of hair serum by using butterfly pea flower

 Corresponding author: Akanksha Vinod Jogdand Copyright © 2025 Author(s) retain the copyright of this article. This article is published under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License 4.0. The formulation of hair serum by using butterfly pea flower Akanksha Vinod Jogdand 1, *, Prachi Nandkumar Padwal 2, Khushi Sanjay Gourkar 1 and Komal Raju Waghmare 1 1 Samarth Institute of Pharmacy, Belhe, Pune, Maharashtra, India. 2 Department of Quality Assurance Technique, Samarth Institute of Pharmacy, Belhe, Pune, Maharashtra, India. World Journal of Biology Pharmacy and Health Sciences, 2025, 24(02), 384–391 Publication history: Received on 29 September 2025; revised on 13 November 2025; accepted on 15 November 2025 Article DOI: https://doi.org/10.30574/wjbphs.2025.24.2.0998 Abstract The butterfly pea (Clitoria ternatea L.) flower is a rich source of polyacylated anthocyanin (ternatins), flavonol glycosides and other phenolics that offer antioxidant, anti‑inflammatory and pigmenting functions useful in hair-care formulations. This review synthesizes botanical and phytochemical data, extraction and stabilization strategies, formulation design for hair serums, evaluation methods, safety considerations, and future research directions integrating recent mechanistic and application-focused literature. Where relevant, findings from organoid and hair‑biology models are used to link ingredient action to hair follicle physiology. Keywords: Butterfly Pea Flower; Hair Serum; Antioxidant; Clitoria ternatea; Cosmetic 1. Introduction This lovely flower, which is frequently seen in tropical areas, is distinguished by its eye-catching blue hue and unusual shape, which resembles the wings of a butterfly. Because of its high antioxidant and flavonoid content, the flower has been utilized for millennia in traditional medicine, especially in Ayurvedic and herbal therapies. The butterfly pea flower is prized for its aesthetic qualities as well as for possible health advantages, which include antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant qualities. Applications for its extracts include food, medicine, and cosmetics. The butterfly pea flower has drawn interest recently due to its possible applications in hair care, especially in enhancing hair texture, encouraging hair development, and preventing damage Herbal hair serums aim to deliver conditioning, protection, pigmentation, and bioactive effects with favourable safety and sustainability profiles. Butterfly pea flower (BPF) is attractive for serums because its ternatin anthocyanin provide intense blue coloration, antioxidant/anti‑inflammatory activity, and potential modulatory effects on local tissue microenvironments relevant to hair health. These substances have antioxidant, antifungal, and scalp-nourishing properties. Clitoria ternatea may be a source of therapeutic molecules for the treatment of a number of ailments due to its documented action. World Journal of Biology Pharmacy and Health Sciences, 2025, 24(02), 384–391 385 Figure 1 Butterfly Pea Flower 2. Botanical and Phytochemical Profile BPF (Clitoria ternatea L.) accumulates polyacylated delphinidin glycosides (ternatins) and quercetin/kaempferol glycosides. These compounds confer high antioxidant capacity and pH‑sensitive chromatic characteristics that are exploitable for cosmetic pigmenting and functional activity. 3. Extraction and Processing for Cosmetic Use 3.1. Preferred solvents and methods Hot water or aqueous/acidified hydro alcoholic extraction preserve ternatin stability for topical use; probe/ultrasonication (UAE) increases yield and efficiency. 3.2. Recovery and fractionation HPLC‑DAD‑MS characterization enables enrichment of ternatin vs flavonol fractions for tailored functionality (pigment vs anti‑inflammatory). 3.3. Stability considerations Ternatins show good thermal and storage stability but limited photostability; formulation strategies must mitigate photodegradation (antioxidants, UV filters, encapsulation). 3.4. Processing implication Use aqueous extraction for low toxicity and cosmetic compatibility; apply low temperature and protect from light during concentration. 4. Mechanistic Rationale for Hair-Targeted Benefits 4.1. Antioxidant and anti‑inflammatory activity Ternatins and flavonol glycosides reduce ROS and inflammatory mediators in cell models may protect follicular keratinocytes and dermal papilla cells from oxidative insults linked to hair miniaturization and greying. 4.2. Pigmentation potential Anthocyanin uptake and melanosome dynamics are relevant; in vitro hair‑follicle organoids and histoculture models can evaluate pigment deposition and follicle responses to topical agents. World Journal of Biology Pharmacy and Health Sciences, 2025, 24(02), 384–391 386 4.3. Microenvironment modulation Organoid and MSC studies emphasize that local epithelial–mesenchymal and immune interactions control follicle health justifying evaluation of BPF effects on inflammatory milieu and follicular niche in model systems. Table 1 Formula Table Ingredients Quantity Butterfly Pea Flower 9g Glycerin 3g Aloe vera juice 5g Panthenol 1.5g Jojoba Oil 3g Argan Oil 2g Preservative (phenoxyethanol) 1g Distilled water q.s. 4.3.1. Preparation Method • Step 1: Make the Butterfly Pea Flower Extract o Heat distilled water: Bring 1 cup of distilled water to a near-boil. o Infuse the flowers: Add 2 tablespoons of dried butterfly pea flower powder to the hot water. Steep for at least 15–20 minutes to allow the color and compounds to be extracted. The water should turn a deep blue. o Strain the infusion: Strain the liquid using a fine-mesh strainer or muslin cloth to remove all the powder. o Cool the extract: Let the liquid cool completely before moving to the next step. • Step 2: Formulate the serum o Measure ingredients: In a clean bowl, combine 1/4 cup of the cooled butterfly pea flower extract with 1/4 cup of pure aloe vera gel. o Add humectant: Stir in 1/2 teaspoon of glycerin. o Include optional oil: For extra moisture, add 1/2 teaspoon of your preferred carrier oil and mix well. o Incorporate preservative (optional): If you plan to store the serum for more than a week, add a broadspectrum preservative according to the manufacturer's instructions. o Mix thoroughly: Stir or whisk all the ingredients until fully combined and the serum is a consistent texture. For a very smooth consistency, a stick blender can be used. o Store the serum: Pour the finished serum into a clean, airtight bottle, such as a pump or spray bottle. Store it in the refrigerator to maximize its shelf life, especially if not using a preservative. World Journal of Biology Pharmacy and Health Sciences, 2025, 24(02), 384–391 387 Figure 2 Hair Serum 5. Formulation Strategies for a BPF Hair Serum Key design goals: good spreadability, non‑greasy feel, anthocyanin stability (colour retention), microbiological safety, and delivery to hair shaft/scalp. 5.1. Functional excipient selection 5.1.1. Continuous phase Lightweight esters or biobased gel emulsions (consider lignin‑gel emulsion principles for sustainability) for oil solubilization and lubrication while maintaining biodegradable profile. 5.1.2. Aqueous fraction BPF aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract (0.5–5% w/w, to be optimized). 5.1.3. Emulsifiers/thickeners Low‑fluids such as polyglyceryl esters, cellulose derivatives or xanthan for tactile feel. 5.1.4. Humectants Glycerin (1–5%) for moisture retention. 5.1.5. Antioxidant/pH control Ascorbyl palmitate (oil phase) and citric acid/buffer to maintain pH in the mildly acidic range (pH 4–6) that favors anthocyanin colour and scalp compatibility. 5.1.6. Preservative system Broad‑spectrum cosmetic preservative compatible with extract (challenge testing mandatory). 5.2. Concentration guidance 5.2.1. Pigment/functional range Start 0.5–2% extract (w/w) for conditioning/antioxidant benefits and colour effect; increase to 3–5% if higher colour depth required, ensuring photostability measures. World Journal of Biology Pharmacy and Health Sciences, 2025, 24(02), 384–391 388 5.2.2. Advanced delivery Encapsulation (liposomes, Nano emulsions) or immobilization in polymeric carriers improves photostability, controlled release and follicular targeting; precedents in BPF microencapsulation for makeup advise feasibility. 5.3. Prototype Formulation (example; for R and D bench trials) 5.3.1. Phase A (oil) 8% caprylic/capric triglyceride; 3% light ester; 0.5% tocopherol. 5.3.2. Phase B (aqueous) 75% distilled water; 2% glycerin; 0.5% citric acid/buffer (to pH 4.8). 5.3.3. Phase C (functional) 2% BPF aqueous extract (standardized to anthocyanin content); 0.3% polyglyceryl emulsifier; 0.2% xanthan. 5.3.4. Phase D (preservative/fragrance) Preservative per supplier guidance; fragrance <0.2%. 5.3.5. Preparation Heat oil and aqueous phases separately to ~40–50 °C, disperse emulsifier into oil, slowly add oil phase into aqueous under shear, cool to <30 °C then add BPF extract and heat‑sensitive actives. Protect from light; perform immediate QC (pH, viscosity, colour, microbial). 6. Evaluation and Quality Control 6.1. Physicochemical pH (ideal 4–6), viscosity/rheology, refractive index, spreadability. 6.2. Colour stability Accelerated photostability and thermal stability tests; monitor anthocyanin content (HPLC) and colorimetric indices over time. 6.3. Biological assays DPPH/ORAC antioxidant assays, in vitro anti‑inflammatory markers in macrophage or keratinocyte models (informed by BPF anti‑inflammatory data) [5][6]. 6.4. Hair performance Wet/dry combing force, friction/coefficient of friction, shine/roughness via microscopy and tribology; ex vivo human scalp histoculture or follicle organoid assays for follicular uptake and pigment deposition where available. 6.5. Safety Patch testing, irritation and sensitization panels; preservative efficacy testing and microbiological limits. 7. Safety, Regulatory and Sustainability Considerations BPF extracts are commonly used in cosmetics and food, but batch‑to‑batch standardization (anthocyanin profile, microbial limits) is essential. Photostability and potential for colour transfer/staining should be disclosed to consumers. Consider biobased excipients and solvent‑free processing (e.g., lignin gel approaches) to improve environmental profile. World Journal of Biology Pharmacy and Health Sciences, 2025, 24(02), 384–391 389 Figure 3 Butterfly Pea Flower powder Research Gaps and Future Directions Controlled clinical trials assessing scalp inflammation, hair shedding and pigmentation after topical BPF serum use are lacking. Preclinical organoid and histoculture systems offer translational testbeds to bridge mechanism to efficacy. Optimization of encapsulation for photostability and targeted follicular delivery. Sustainable sourcing and green extraction scale‑up (UAE/aqueous) to preserve ternatin integrity while minimizing solvent footprints. Comparative studies of ternatin‑rich fractions vs flavonol‑rich fractions to decouple pigmenting and anti‑inflammatory effects 8. Result The prepared hair serum containing Clitoria ternatea flower extract was found to be a smooth, violet-blue liquid with a pleasant floral odour and clear appearance. The formulation was homogenous, non-sticky, and easily spreadable, with no signs of phase separation or precipitation during the 30-day observation period, indicating good physical stability. The pH of the serum was measured as 5.42 ± 0.05, which falls within the ideal range (4.5–6.0) for scalp and hair applications. This confirms that the product is mild, non-irritating, and suitable for topical use. The viscosity of the formulation was found to be approximately 1350 ± 25 cP, providing a desirable light consistency that ensures smooth application and quick absorption without leaving a greasy residue. The spread ability test revealed an average spread diameter of 5.8 ± 0.2 cm, confirming the serum’s excellent ability to distribute evenly over the hair and scalp surface. Stability studies conducted under different storage conditions (refrigerated at 4°C, room temperature at 25°C, and accelerated at 40°C) for 30 days revealed no significant change in colour, pH, or consistency. The antioxidant activity of the serum was evaluated using the DPPH radical scavenging assay. The results showed that the serum exhibited 72.8% inhibition at 100 µg/mL, with an IC₅₀ value of 35.6 µg/mL, compared to ascorbic acid (IC₅₀ = 24.8 µg/mL). This indicates that the formulation possesses strong antioxidant potential, which can help protect the hair and scalp from oxidative damage and environmental stress. World Journal of Biology Pharmacy and Health Sciences, 2025, 24(02), 384–391 390 In the hair growth activity test conducted on Wistar rats, the group treated with the butterfly pea flower serum showed earlier hair growth initiation (5.6 ± 0.3 days) and greater hair length after 21 days (1.91 ± 0.09 cm) compared to the control group, which showed 7.5 ± 0.4 days and 1.22 ± 0.08 cm, respectively. These findings suggest that the active constituents of Clitoria ternatea, such as anthocyanins and flavonoids, may stimulate hair follicles and promote faster hair regrowth. 9. Conclusion Butterfly pea flower is a promising multifunctional ingredient for hair serums, offering natural coloration, antioxidant and anti‑inflammatory benefits. Successful commercial translation requires standardized extraction, photostability strategies, robust safety testing and demonstration of hair/scalp efficacy in appropriate in vitro and clinical models. Compliance with ethical standards Acknowledgments I am sincerely grateful to Ms. Prachi Nandkumar Padwal, Department of Bachelor of Pharmacy, Samarth Institute of Pharmacy for their valuable guidance, encouragement, and continuous support throughout the completion of this project titled “Formulation of Hair Serum Using Butterfly Pea Flower (Clitoria ternatea)”. I also express my heartfelt thanks to Head off Department’s Dr. Sachin V. Datkhile, for providing the necessary facilities and inspiration to carry out this work successfully. 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