Mapping the history, trajectory, and anatomy of slow and sustainable fashion: a bibliometric analysis

Aggarwal, Deepanshi; Rabby, Fazla; Fahlevi, Mochammad; Muttaqin, Andhyka; Bansal, Rohit Article Mapping the history, trajectory, and anatomy of slow and sustainable fashion: a bibliometric analysis Cogent Business & Management Provided in Cooperation with: Taylor & Francis Group Suggested Citation: Aggarwal, Deepanshi; Rabby, Fazla; Fahlevi, Mochammad; Muttaqin, Andhyka; Bansal, Rohit (2024) : Mapping the history, trajectory, and anatomy of slow and sustainable fashion: a bibliometric analysis, Cogent Business & Management, ISSN 2331-1975, Taylor & Francis, Abingdon, Vol. 11, Iss. 1, pp. 1-23, https://doi.org/10.1080/23311975.2024.2423058 This Version is available at: https://hdl.handle.net/10419/326669 Standard-Nutzungsbedingungen: Die Dokumente auf EconStor dürfen zu eigenen wissenschaftlichen Zwecken und zum Privatgebrauch gespeichert und kopiert werden. 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If the documents have been made available under an Open Content Licence (especially Creative Commons Licences), you may exercise further usage rights as specified in the indicated licence. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Cogent Business & Management ISSN: 2331-1975 (Online) Journal homepage: www.tandfonline.com/journals/oabm20 Mapping the history, trajectory, and anatomy of slow and sustainable fashion: a bibliometric analysis Deepanshi Aggarwal, Fazla Rabby, Mochammad Fahlevi, Andhyka Muttaqin & Rohit Bansal To cite this article: Deepanshi Aggarwal, Fazla Rabby, Mochammad Fahlevi, Andhyka Muttaqin & Rohit Bansal (2024) Mapping the history, trajectory, and anatomy of slow and sustainable fashion: a bibliometric analysis, Cogent Business & Management, 11:1, 2423058, DOI: 10.1080/23311975.2024.2423058 To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/23311975.2024.2423058 © 2024 The Author(s). Published by Informa UK Limited, trading as Taylor & Francis Group Published online: 07 Nov 2024. Submit your article to this journal Article views: 1224 View related articles View Crossmark data Citing articles: 1 View citing articles Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at https://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=oabm20 Marketing | research article Cogent Business & ManageMent 2024, VoL. 11, no. 1, 2423058 Mapping the history, trajectory, and anatomy of slow and sustainable fashion: a bibliometric analysis Deepanshi aggarwala , Fazla rabbyb , Mochammad Fahlevic,* , andhyka Muttaqind and rohit Bansale aDepartment of Management studies, the technological institute of textile and sciences, Bhiwani, india; bDepartment of Management stanford institute of Management and technology, sydney, australia; cDepartment of Management, Binus online, Bina nusantara university, Jakarta, indonesia; dDepartment of Public administration , universitas Brawijaya, indonesia; eDepartment of Management studies, Vaish College of engineering, Rohtak, india ABSTRACT this research analysis was conducted to explore the evolution of scholarly work on slow fashion, which prioritizes ethical production, sustainability, and transparency in the fashion industry. Utilizing bibliometric analysis with Biblioshiny and VOsviewer on a dataset of 343 documents, the study aimed to identify influential perspectives and significant research goals in this domain as bibliometric study aims to bridge the research gap by tracking the development of slow fashion and identifying both well-researched and emerging areas ripe for future investigation. the findings revealed a notable increase in the publication-to-citation ratio over recent decades, with ‘sustainability switzerland’ being the leading journal (90 publications) and choi-t-M recognized as the most prolific author. hong kong Polytechnic University ranked first in institutional contributions, while collaboration was strongest among researchers from the Usa, Uk, and china. sustainability emerged as a central theme, showing the highest link strength, and future trending topics included corporate social responsibility, consumer behavior, and ethical fashion. this analysis enhances the understanding of slow fashion’s integration with sustainable practices and provides a roadmap for emerging researchers in the field. 1. Introduction the fashion industry significantly contributes to ecological degradation, primarily due to fast fashion practices and the production of inexpensive garments. For instance, over 75% of fast fashion clothing is discarded in landfills. as alternatives, slow fashion and thrift store shopping promote sustainable consumption habits (Brewer, 2019). slow fashion represents a strategic shift towards ethical and sustainable practices, contrasting sharply with fast fashion’s focus on cheap, mass-produced apparel. it encourages consumers to prioritize quality over quantity by purchasing fewer, long-lasting items. research highlights the severe social and environmental issues within the global textile industry, particularly in developing countries like china and india, where low wages and poor working conditions are prevalent (salcedo et al., 2021). children and teenagers are often subjected to hazardous environments, while workers earn meager wages (1% to 2% of a garment’s sale price) and are exposed to harmful chemicals that threaten both human health and ecosystems. addressing these challenges is essential for achieving sustainable Development goals (sDgs), particularly goal 8 (Decent Work and economic growth) and goal 12 (responsible consumption and Production). (chen et al., 2017) emphasize the importance of implementing changes throughout the textile supply chain, aligning with sDg 12’s focus on sustainable production practices. (corcelli etal., 2018) argue that sustainable manufacturing is crucial for conserving © 2024 the author(s). Published by informa uK Limited, trading as taylor & Francis group CONTACT andhyka Muttaqin [email protected] Public administration Department, universitas Brawijaya, indonesia *Mochammad Fahlevi is also affiliated to operation Research & Management sciences, Faculty of Business and Management, universiti sultan Zainal abidin (unisZa), Malaysia. https://doi.org/10.1080/23311975.2024.2423058 this is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. the terms on which this article has been published allow the posting of the accepted Manuscript in a repository by the author(s) or with their consent. ARTICLE HISTORY received 1 July 2024 revised 14 October 2024 accepted 24 October 2024 KEYWORDS slow fashion; sustainable fashion; bibliometric review; Biblioshiny; future directions SUBJECTS Business, Management and accounting; environmental economics; environment & the Developing World; sustainable Development 2 D. aggarWal etal. natural resources and mitigating environmental harm, while (todeschini etal., 2020) note the industry’s increasing openness to sustainable innovations. additionally, (testa et al., 2022) suggest that brands prioritizing social responsibility and sustainable alternatives experience greater consumer acceptance, inspiring further action across the sector. as consumers become more aware of environmental issues, there is a pressing need for businesses to adopt sustainable practices to meet this demand (aggarwal, 2023). also, slow and sustainable fashion represents a transformative shift in the fashion industry, emphasizing ethical practices, environmental stewardship, and social responsibility. as a significant contributor to global ecological degradation, the fashion industry faces pressing challenges, including excessive waste, resource depletion, and labor exploitation (gardetti & Muthu, 2020). in response, slow fashion promotes a mindful approach to consumption, prioritizing high-quality, durable garments over the fast-paced cycle of cheap, disposable clothing (thakker & sun, 2023). this paradigm shift aligns closely with several sDgs, particularly goal 12 (responsible consumption and Production), which advocates for sustainable practices across industries, and goal 8 (Decent Work and economic growth), which emphasizes fair labor practices and economic growth that benefits all. the principles of slow fashion advocate for reduced consumption, transparent supply chains, and the support of local artisans, which contribute to a circular economy—minimizing waste and maximizing resource efficiency (Biancone etal., 2023). By integrating sustainability into fashion, this movement not only addresses environmental concerns but also promotes social equity, ensuring that workers in developing countries receive fair wages and work in safe conditions (kabbara & Zucchella, 2023). the adoption of slow fashion practices empowers consumers to make informed choices, fostering a culture of responsibility and awareness that supports both ecological integrity and social justice (thakker & sun, 2023). as the fashion industry increasingly embraces these values, it plays a crucial role in advancing the sDgs and creating a more sustainable future for all. however, despite the acknowledgment of sustainability, challenges remain as consumers often gravitate towards fast fashion, presenting obstacles to the adoption of ethical practices. the fashion industry is not only a major consumer of water but also a significant polluter, making sustainability a strategic imperative. even when consumers express a willingness to purchase sustainably produced goods at a higher cost, their actual purchasing behavior often contradicts these claims. this disconnect raises questions about the effectiveness of sustainable practices in attracting customers and achieving a competitive edge. thus, a comprehensive understanding of consumer behavior is vital for advancing sustainability goals, aligning with the broader objectives of the sDgs. therefore, it makes sense to conduct a systematic review to gain a comprehensive understanding of this subject. With these suppositions in mind, the ultimate objective of this research is to conduct a bibliometric analysis of the slow and sustainable fashion literature by examining scientific works that have been published during the last 40 years (1983–2023). More specifically, the research questions (rQ) that the endeavor aims to address are as follows: rQ1. Who are the most contributing and collaborating authors, countries, and institutions in the literature on slow and sustainable fashion? rQ2. What themes and patterns are present in the literature on slow and sustainable fashion? rQ3. What conclusions can be drawn from the literature on possible directions for further studies on slow and sustainable fashion? By following the development of the problem and identifying the most researched areas, as well as those that are still developing and may offer opportunities for future research, this bibliometric study seeks to narrow the research gap. From a theoretical perspective, by integrating existing research, detecting gaps in knowledge and inconsistencies, and creating new theoretical frameworks, comprehensive literature reviews significantly contribute to the theoretical, methodological, and thematic growth of numerous disciplines (Domingos etal., 2022; Jung & Jeong, 2020; Preuit & Yan, 2016). From a managerial viewpoint, this study contributes to the body of research on sustainability as a worldwide concern for organizations, governments, and individuals, giving readers a sense of the field’s state of the art and organizing its findings (Štefko & steffek, 2018). Finally, it pinpoints unexplored possibilities that might affect consumption patterns in a sustainable manner. cOgent BUsiness & ManageMent 3 the article is structured as follows: section 2 provides a theoretical viewpoint on the research, followed by a narrative of the methodology in section 3, a discussion of the outcomes in section 4, and a final explanation of the directions for future study in section 5. 2.Theoretical perspectives slow fashion has emerged as a sustainable trend(Jung & Jeong, 2020). in the fashion business, slow fashion is a relatively new concept that was founded in 2008 and is based on sustainable ideals. When overproduction is not the goal, the goal is to minimize the exploitation of natural resources; apparel production moves slowly. similarly, the consumer needs to own and wear clothing for a longer period of time, and early replacement of the item is not encouraged. solino (solino et al., 2020) highlight that slow fashion is an individual-centered trend that lessens the incentive for rapid and excessive consumption, while examining the motivation to shift societal attitudes and behaviors in the direction of a balance between social, environmental, and economic factors. slow fashion is a stylish and sustainable movement that emphasizes purchasing fewer high-quality items. the usefulness of fast fashion is discussed in ‘slow fashion.’ the approach allows for financial success while simultaneously upholding the rights of workers and the environment, and provides exquisite and considerate apparel. the slow fashion system, which focuses on ‘designing, producing, consuming, and living better,’ is a new framework. Quantity is no longer the focus, and quality is. system changes are embraced slowly. this notion is maintained in the business sector since it is thought to be the best and is supported by individuals. to reestablish its connection to the laws of nature, slow fashion departs from the current power and speed structure. in other words, this is a fashion reinterpretation. a sense of accomplishment or social approval is associated with a consumer having access to recent fashion trends. slow fashion shifts perceptions of rapid fashion by combining gradual production and consumption, avoiding the exploitation of people and environmental resources. slow fashion is not just a new way of thinking for the fast-fashion business; it is also a new way of producing goods. customers’ attitudes towards the detrimental environmental repercussions of fast fashion have little to no influence on their shopping decisions. in fact, while making clothing purchases, consumers are more concerned with fit and style than with environmental issues (Butler & Francis, 1997). as fashion and sustainability encompass a wide range of themes, researchers have observed that it is impractical or difficult for a single study to address all pertinent concerns and questions. consequently, the goal of this study was to determine current research trends and milestones. By focusing on this particular area of interest, the current study offers insightful information while considering the larger context of fashion consumption and sustainability. For instance, an exhaustive survey of the literature can be used to find pertinent international articles on ethical fashion. the results of this type of evaluation provide useful information for future research and serve as a foundation for future studies. table 1 outlines the foundational pillars of slow fashion, demonstrating how each contributes to broader sustainable development objectives. By adhering to these principles, the fashion industry can significantly mitigate its ecological footprint while promoting social equity and economic resilience. Table 1. initial pillars of slow fashion. Pillar Description Contribution to sDgs Quality over quantity Focus on creating and purchasing fewer, high-quality garments that last longer. supports goal 12 (responsible consumption) ethical production emphasizes fair labor practices, ensuring safe working conditions and fair wages for workers. supports goal 8 (Decent work and economic growth) environmental stewardship advocates for sustainable materials and practices that minimize ecological impact. supports goal 12 (responsible production) transparency encourages brands to be open about their supply chains and sourcing practices. supports goal 12 (sustainable practices) Localism Promotes support for local artisans and businesses, fostering community and cultural heritage. supports goal 11 (sustainable cities and communities) Circular economy Focuses on recycling, upcycling, and reducing waste through responsible consumption practices. supports goal 12 (responsible consumption) 4 D. aggarWal etal. 3. Methodology to map the development of the mindset and identify the critical components (i.e., nations, authors, and journals) in various research fields, this study used the bibliometric analysis method for the literature review (gutiérrez-salcedo et al., 2017). this systematic domain-based review examines a large body of published research to identify knowledge gaps and potential directions for future studies, as well as to emphasize statistical findings and identify trends. a systematic literature review is a useful tool for ‘identifying, evaluating, and synthesizing all the empirical evidence that satisfies pre-specified eligibility criteria to answer a given research question,’ but it can be difficult to manually search through and classify the vast amount of existing literature. the current systematic literature review includes bibliometric visualization tools to improve the review and analysis processes. the investigation was organized (Figure 1) in the following steps using protocols from the existing literature (capobianco-Uriarte et al., 2019; Paul & criado, 2020). choose a database, (2) establish search parameters, and (3) analyze data. 3.1. Data collection the first step for the researchers was to choose the best database. the most well-known academic database, scopus, is one that researchers use to learn more about the state of slow fashion today. scopus was used for two reasons: first, it includes publications that meet rigorous standards for indexing, and second, it offers comprehensive bibliometric information for the publications it indexes. Furthermore, investigations aimed at compiling a substantial corpus for review can benefit greatly from scopus, a scientific database often recommended for bibliometric assessments (Donthu etal., 2021; Paul & criado, 2020). ‘Web of science’s coverage is less than that of scopus, making scopus a more comprehensive yet excellent source of bibliometric data (Paul et al., 2022).’ selecting relevant search terms is a significant decision that is validated by subject matter experts and based on a review of the literature. the title, abstract, and keywords have been added to the expanded search parameters. in the present study all the factors has been taken from literature review. the data were gathered using the most pertinent terms, such as ‘slow fashion, ethical fashion, sustainable fashion, eco-friendly fashion, and vegan fashion.’ For the search approach, all terms were joined using the Boolean operator ‘or.’ subsequently, a previously specified search string was employed to obtain materials from the scopus database. Only the keywords and title abstracts were searched for key terms. a total of 1256 research documents pertaining to the years 1983–2023 were identified using the search method. Other exclusion criteria were also applied the criteria utilized in this step of the article selection process involved concealing the identity Figure 1. Methodological framework for the bibliometric analysis. Source: Researchers’s own work. cOgent BUsiness & ManageMent 5 of the authors and journal names to adhere to the guidelines of lundberg et al. Because of the online selection process, the sample was limited to fields and was only available in english. after data curation, 343 articles were extracted. 3.2. Data analysis this approach includes ‘science mapping’ and ‘performance analyses.’ in terms of publications, the performance analysis examines authors, articles, sources, countries, and institutions. in contrast, science mapping uses bibliometric techniques to identify patterns/collaborations/networking in scientific research. the following information was thoroughly evaluated for each of these major categories: (1) summary statistics, (2) annual scientific production with citations, (3) impactful journals, (4) most global and locally cited sources, (5) important authors, influential affiliation, and most-impacting nations, (6) bibliographic coupling, (7) thematic analysis, (8) co-occurrence of keywords, (9) historical and contemporary movements of keywords, and (10) future research directions. Both review papers provide evidence in favor of notionally defined categories. the filtration process for selecting articles on slow and sustainable fashion was implemented to ensure a comprehensive and relevant study focused on high-quality research as shown in the table 2. the search string, which included specific keywords like ‘slow fashion,’ ‘ethical fashion,’ and ‘sustainable fashion,’ was designed to capture a wide range of pertinent literature while filtering out unrelated studies. By allowing all types of articles, the selection aimed to gather diverse perspectives and methodologies, enriching the bibliometric analysis. limiting the publication period to 1999–2023 helped focus on the most current research trends and capture the evolution of these concepts over time. in terms of subject areas, including disciplines such as business, social sciences, and environmental science provided a holistic understanding of slow fashion from various angles, while excluding unrelated subjects maintained the relevance of the literature. not imposing restrictions on document types ensured that all forms of scholarly work—such as articles, reviews, and case studies—were considered, broadening the analysis’s scope. additionally, focusing solely on english publications facilitated consistency in analysis, given that english is widely used in academic discourse. Ultimately, arriving at a manageable number of 343 articles allowed for in-depth examination while ensuring that the study remained focused and feasible. this careful selection process aimed to ground the analysis of slow and sustainable fashion in relevant, high-quality research, facilitating meaningful insights into the field. 3.3. Data visualization Many software programs are available for bibliometric analysis, including Bibexcel (Fahimnia et al., 2015), network Workbench tool, Biblioshiny, Vosviewer (caviggioli & Ughetto, 2019), insPire, histcite, VantagePoint, Pajek (Persson etal., 2009), coPalred, citespace ii (li etal., 2018), gephi (Xu etal., 2018), Bibexcel (Persson etal., 2009), and PePalred. Bibliometrix and Vosviewer were used to analyze the bibliometric data in this study. graphs were created in Microsoft excel using the Biblioshiny output data. the documents were then mostly imported into virtual Biblioshiny software, which was created as an Table 2. Material data collection. Category Criteria numeral of Filtered articles search string title-abs-Key ‘slow fashion’ oR ‘ethical fashion’ oR ‘eco-friendly fashion’ oR ‘vegan fashion’ anD ‘sustainable Fashion’ 1256 access all types – Period including articles between 1999 to 2023 – subject area Business, management, economics, social sciences, engineering, psychology, environmental science, material science, energy, and decision sciences: all these subject areas were included, but other subjects were excluded. (906) Document type no Restrictions – Language of publication english only (7) Final number of articles for further bibliometric study 343 Source: author’s work. 6 D. aggarWal etal. interface for bibliometrics. ‘it provides a broad range of statistical techniques and visualizations (it excels in offering dynamic visualizations that show change over time) that can be used for performance analysis or to determine the conceptual, intellectual, or social structure of the field, in contrast to most other bibliometric tools.’ Furthermore, VosViewer, a visualization program that is widely used, was used. 4. Results analysis 4.1. Performance analysis it examines the contribution of research constituents in a given field (authors, institutions, countries, and journals). the conclusions from the bibliometric analysis of 343 slow and sustainable fashion publications published between 1983 and 2023 are presented in this chapter. an annotated overview of the analysis results is shown in Figure 2. the average number of citations for papers published during this time frame in the scopus database was 18.54. the increased average number of citations per document suggests that the body of research on sustainable fashion is rapidly expanding. the findings also revealed that 2918 different authors contributed to the topic of slow and sustainable fashion throughout this time. a total of were 276 documents obtained from a single author. there are 2.77 co-authors on average for each document. this shows that a significant number of research papers are conducted in partnership with other authors in a slow and sustainable fashion. however, a substantial number of single-author studies were considered. 4.2. Annual scientific production initially, we examined the history of the scientific output. the publication interest over the considered period does not show a clear trend line, as Figure 3 illustrates. in 2000 and 2001, only one publication was released annually; however, in 2002, that number increased to three, and in 2003, it dropped to just two. in 2004, there were six publications; in 2005, there was another decline; and in 2006, there were 12. this oscillatory pattern persisted until 2012. subsequently, there was an ongoing rising trend from 2013 to 2023, which accounted for almost 90% of all publications in the database. comparably, the document earned close to 50 citations in total in 2000, dropped to 46 in 2001, and increased to 48 in 2002. Until 284 in 2004, it displayed a growing tendency; however, in 2005, it declined once more. the variation persisted until 2012, when the number of document citations showed a steady increase. Publications received over 3000 citations, with the highest possible number in 2019 Bradford’s law, one of the core ideas of bibliometrics, makes it possible to determine the main journals for a certain topic. Bradford’s law is therefore frequently used in bibliometrics to evaluate journal production. Furthermore, the information shows that 1256 research articles were published in 698 publications. More precisely, 417 papers came from the first group of 35 journals, 425 articles from the second group of 247 journals, and Figure 2. summary statistics. Source: R studio. cOgent BUsiness & ManageMent 7 414 articles from the third group of 414 journals (see table 3). Bradford’s law states that the theoretical number of articles in each zone should be 1256/3 = 418, or 33.28% of the total. table 3 shows that the number of articles in each of the three zones is approximately equal. however, the manner in which items are distributed across all zones is inconsistent. Bradford’s distribution did not match that of the dataset. it can be inferred that less prestigious journals that publish articles specifically on this topic are located in Zone 1. however, as we proceeded from Zone 2 to Zone 3, the number of articles remained constant; instead, the number of journals in these zones continued to increase. these periodicals publish average-quality articles and do not dedicate much time to this topic. compared with the papers found in the subsequent zones, those found in the core zone (Zone 1) are significantly more prolific. a few well-known journals found in Zone 1 (core journals) include ‘sustainability switzerland, Journal of Fashion Market, Fashion Practice, international Journal of Fashion Design, technology, and education, and Journal of global Fashion Marketing. table 4 lists the journals with the highest contributions. it is depicted in Figure 4 that ‘the source that publishes the greatest number of research articles and is most frequently chosen for research using slow and sustainable fashion is sustainability switzerland (tP = 90). the Journal of global Fashion Marketing (tP = 17) and Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management (tP = 40)’ come next. Furthermore, table 3 shows that the story is similar, based on the overall number of citations. among the journals, sustainability switzerland (tc = 1344) had the greatest influence. the Journal of global Marketing Management (tc = 325) and the Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management (tc = 1571) come next. switzerland’s sustainability had the highest h-index at 20. ‘the largest value of h indicates that a specific journal has published at least h articles, each of which has been cited at least h times, and is denoted as the h-index, which is a journal-level metric that evaluates both the productivity and citation impact of publications linked with the journal’. the production of the top five sources of sustainable and slow fashion research between 1983 and 2023 is shown in Figure 5 the most prolific authors in this field of study, represented by 13 research articles, are shown in Figure 6. the author who contributes the most is choi-t-M. he is a doctorate and currently working at the University Figure 3. annual scientific production with citations. Source: R studio. Table 3. Zone-wise distribution of journals and publications. Zone number of journals (%) of Journals number of articles (%) of articles Zone 1 35 2.00% 417 33.20% Zone 2 247 34.48% 425 33.83% Zone 3 414 59.48% 414 32.96% total 696 100.00 1256 100.00 note: Zone 1 consists of leading journals in any discipline; these publications push the knowledge boundaries. Zone 2 journals can be thought of as publications that follow Zone 1 journals since they are published in a few different connected fields. Compared to the preceding two zones, Zone 3 journals are less field-specific. 14 D. aggarWal etal. significant relevance but less advanced research areas, such as sustainability, consumption behavior, and marketing. the upper-left quadrant of niche themes consists of highly established clusters that are less relevant to the current study area. these clusters included energy efficiency, alternative efficiency, and fossil fuels. carbon dioxide synthesis and catalysis are in the lower left quadrant, which can be classified as an emerging concept. thorough examination is necessary to comprehend its emergence and dynamics within the other quadrants. the motor themes located in the upper-right quadrant, which encompass study areas including articles, humans, and humans, had both high density and high centrality. these themes can enhance future research. terms such as sustainable development have high centrality, but medium density. similarly, the term textile industry has medium density but low centrality. in the past 40 years, 7101 keywords linked to sustainable and slow fashion have been discovered. the minimum number of keywords was set to nine in this study, resulting in 94 keywords that met the criteria. this was done to identify the distribution and interconnections between the main areas of research in a sustainable and slow manner. Figure 13 shows that the keywords were clustered into five clusters based on their similarity in the research field. cluster 1 was dominated by the theme of sustainability, which had the greatest number of linkages (82), the highest overall link strength (713), and was the most prominent theme. this suggests a substantial correlation between sustainability and other terms in the same cluster, including environmental sustainability, environmental effects, fashion industry, and corporate social responsibility. With a total connection strength of 44, emerging nations stand out in cluster 2, highlighting the interconnectedness of sustainable development and the need for sustainable practices in developing countries, such as india. clusters 3 and 4 highlight the new keywords ethical fashion, consumer behavior, sustainable fashion, and the clothing industry, reflecting consumer awareness of sustainable fashion products. in cluster 5, collaboration, circular economy, innovation, and sustainable practices, these keywords stand out and depict the collaboration of innovative sustainable practices in a circular economy to make the economy prosperous. 4.4. Historic advances and contemporary movements of keywords in slow and sustainable fashion the analysis of historical developments and contemporary movements in keywords related to slow and sustainable fashion reveals significant trends over five distinct periods, showcasing the evolution of Figure 13. Co-occurrence of keywords. Source: Vos viewer. cOgent BUsiness & ManageMent 15 scholarly focus in this field. the study employs density visualization to illustrate keyword occurrences from 1983 to 2023 as shown in Figure 14 and table 8, offering insights into how research themes have shifted and matured. 1. 1983-2000: in this initial period, 236 keywords met the minimum occurrence threshold of one. key themes such as biodiversity, cost-benefit analysis, and environmental pollution emerged, indicating an early awareness of ecological impacts. however, terms like ‘rats,’ ‘males,’ and ‘animals’ faded from relevance, suggesting a narrowing focus toward more impactful environmental concerns. the term ‘non-human’ remained stable, reflecting a consistent acknowledgment of non-human entities in environmental discourse. 2. 2001–2007: this phase saw an increase in keyword occurrences, with 358 meeting the threshold. notably, biodiversity and environmental pollution continued to rise in prominence. new keywords like ‘sustainable development,’ ‘sustainable environmental policy,’ ‘fashion,’ and ‘marketing’ appeared, marking a shift towards integrating sustainability into fashion discourse and policy discussions. 3. 2008–2012: With 178 keywords exceeding a minimum of two occurrences, this period highlighted ongoing interest in sustainability, biodiversity, and fashion. new terms such as ‘investment,’ ‘alternate Figure 14. Historic advances and contemporary movements of keywords in slow and sustainable fashion. Source: Vos viewer. 16 D. aggarWal etal. energy,’ ‘climate change,’ ‘ethics,’ and ‘health care organizations’ emerged, indicating a broader interdisciplinary approach that recognized the interconnectedness of fashion with global environmental and ethical issues. 4. 2013–2018: this period marked a surge in engagement with specific concepts, with 248 keywords meeting the minimum threshold. keywords like ‘textile and clothing industry,’ ‘ethical fashion,’ ‘slow fashion movement,’ and ‘sustainable design’ became prominent, reflecting growing environmental consciousness and the rise of ethical considerations in fashion. sustainability and sustainable development continued their upward trajectory, underlining their foundational role in the discourse. 5. 2019–2023: the most recent period demonstrated a remarkable increase, with 1399 keywords meeting the minimum threshold of two occurrences. this surge indicates a significant scholarly focus on sustainability, sustainable development, textiles, and environmental pollution. the high occurrence of these keywords suggests that researchers are increasingly addressing pressing environmental concerns and emphasizing the need for sustainable practices within the fashion industry. Overall, the bibliometric analysis illustrates a clear trajectory from a nascent awareness of environmental issues in the early years to a robust and interdisciplinary engagement with sustainability in recent times. each period not only reflects evolving academic interests but also highlights the growing importance of sustainable practices and ethical considerations in fashion, demonstrating a significant shift towards integrating environmental consciousness into the industry. this comprehensive overview provides valuable insights for researchers and practitioners looking to understand the dynamics of slow and sustainable fashion and its relevance in contemporary discourse. 5. Discussion and conclusion 5.1. Discussion 5.1.1. General trends in the slow and sustainable fashion literature after appropriately outlining the summary statistics, we quickly overlooked the findings. First, our bibliometric analysis did not require careful collection of sample data, as other bibliometric analyses have been conducted. nonetheless, to create a viable research path for the topic, we turned to comparatively simple and quantifiable primary data gathering as well as the use of appropriate analytical methodologies to assess the amount of research that has been conducted in a slow and sustainable manner. in the discussion that follows, we look at a few selected sample results, outlining some insights that scholars, organizations, and politicians might use. this study examines the body of research on sustainable and slow fashion found in the scopus database. to determine the present Table 8. Contemporary movements of keywords. Keywords Freq Keywords Freq Keywords Freq Keywords Freq Keywords Freq article 5 sustainable development 7 Fashion 22 sustainability 71 sustainability 269 Priority journal 5 Review 7 sustainable development 19 sustainable development 49 sustainable development 163 non-human 4 Marketing 7 sustainability 14 textile 17 textiles 47 Rat 4 environmental impact 7 article 14 ethical Fashion 11 Consumption behavior 36 Male 4 Human 7 Human 13 Clothing industry 10 Catalysis 8 animal 3 sustainable 6 ethics 9 Consumption behavior 9Carbon footprint 7 Controlled study 3 uK 6 investments 5 sustainable design 6energy utilization 7 Biodiversity 3 Fashion 6 alternative energy 2 Renewable Resources 3 environmental pollution 6 Cost-benefit analysis 2 environment policy 6 Biodiversity 2 slow fashion movement 33d printing 3 environmental protection 2air pollution 3Climate change 2energy model 3 Computer simulation 3Health care organizations 2 sustainable 3 acari 3 Source: Researchers work. cOgent BUsiness & ManageMent 17 state of research in this field, we employed Biblioshiny and Vosveiwer for Bibliometrix analysis, looking at the ‘contributions of journals, authors, keywords, keyword Plus, highly cited papers, institutions, and nations.’ relevance, citations, and publications indicate that this research area is becoming increasingly popular. the results also demonstrate that leading countries, organizations, and sources in this subject are found in advanced economies. in a similar vein, developed economies mostly collaborate in research. this can be viewed through the prism of state-of-the-art global research. Furthermore, Figure 15 illustrates the relationships across countries, authors, publications, and associations as possible sources of illumination data. the relationships between the United kingdom, Yonsei University, and henninger ce in providing a top-notch study on slow and sustainable literature are depicted in Figure 15a. Figure 15b additionally highlights the relationships between kO e (author), sustainable fashion (keyword), and Usa (country), since these relationships have helped produce significant insights in this field of study. Figure 15c illustrates the partnerships that have resulted in high-caliber research in this sector between Fletcher k (source), henninger ce (author), and the United kingdom (country). 5.2. Conclusion globally, research on slow and sustainable fashion has expanded dramatically over the last few decades. Biblioshiny and Vosveiwer were utilized for bibliometric analysis of a dataset consisting of 343 documents to evaluate the evolution of scholarly research on this subject, identify the most influential points of view, and highlight research goals that are substantially advancing the body of literature. Bibliometrics provides information about the most pertinent authors, countries, themes, organizations, and sources. the ratio of publications to citations has increased over the last few decades. the results of the investigation indicate that sustainability (tP = 90) is the journal with the highest number of research articles published and the highest selection for studies using slow and sustainable fashion. the Journal of global Fashion Marketing (tP = 17) and Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management (tP = 40) come next. the author who contributed the most was choi t-M. the most widely cited paper worldwide is hUnt sD, 1986, J MacrOMark (tc = 176), whereas the most widely cited article locally is Joergens, 2006, J Fash Mark Manage (97 local citations). additionally, hong kong Polytechnic University took the first place (34 publications), headed by Donghja University (27 publications) and Yonsei University (24 publications). the Usa, the Uk, and china have close working partnerships in the field of sustainable and slow fashion research. cluster 1 was dominated by the theme of sustainability, which had the greatest number of linkages (82), the highest overall link strength (713), and was the most prominent theme. Moreover, future trending topics, as per the analysis, are sustainable fashion and corporate social responsibility, sustainable development and economic development, consumer behavior and ethical fashion, luxury, social media, and trust. this analysis provides a framework for individuals entering the slow and sustainable fashion field by outlining scientific research areas and highlighting emerging trends in this sector. this study has certain limitations that may aid future researchers in broadening the scope of their work. One notable limitation of the present investigation is its exclusion of crucial databases such as ‘the Web of science and google scholar, among many others.’ Future researchers can use Web of science, google scholar, and many other databases to retrieve the dataset from the scopus database. Furthermore, considering the volume of research conducted in this area and the impossibility of a single database offering a complete picture of a field of study with such a wide global impact, other research areas that merit additional study may involve the use of other databases or a combination of the two primary bibliometric databases, Web of science and scopus. Furthermore, the analysis only considered research publications published in english, and important materials published in numerous other languages were excluded. lastly, the study’s focus on articles primarily from developed or high-income countries, with limited representation from middle-income countries like indonesia and india, further complicates generalizability. a more balanced distribution of research sources could yield dualistic insights, offering a richer understanding of the slow fashion phenomenon. 18 D. aggarWal etal. Figure 15. general trends in slow and sustainable fashion literature. Source: Rstudio. cOgent BUsiness & ManageMent 19 6. Future research directions 6.1. Sustainable fashion and corporate social responsibility Future research themes, as depicted in Figure 16, should focus on supply chain management and consumers’ moral decision-making, particularly in relation to what drives and influences enterprises to embrace csr programs in comparison to others (testa etal., 2022). the foundational elements of corporate social responsibility (csr) concerns in the fashion industry and the ways in which the sector uses csr initiatives to boost earnings, cut expenses, and conduct business morally could be the main areas of concentration (aggarwal, 2023). Moreover, the tendency to discard relatively new clothing has increased owing to the overconsumption of apparel. as a result, studies should be conducted to determine how this type of behavior contributes to disposal issues and how to address them by looking into clothing exchanges or model rentals for both new and used apparel (satar et al., 2023). Furthermore, future studies could examine the connection between ethical consumption and personal behavior to comprehend the driving forces behind consumption. 6.2. Sustainable development and economic development three separate components are included in the complex notion of sustainable development, which is located at the nexus of the environment: environmental, social, and economic issues (Štefko & steffek, 2018). the economy uses energy and natural resources from the environment to produce goods and services for society, resulting in emissions and pollution. environmental pollution has increased with continued production (Preuit & Yan, 2016). it is essential to protect the environment from contamination caused by these activities to guarantee that future generations can access and use it for their requirements. in recent years, the idea of assessing quality of life has attracted much interest, especially in relation to sustainable development. additionally, a healthy quality of life promotes economic development in any economy(J. Paul & criado, 2020) 6.3. Consumer behaviour and ethical fashion consumers are the lifeblood of fashion industry. thus, it is critical that they understand the brands, production processes, marketing strategies, and challenges faced by the fast-fashion industry. consumers are prepared to pay more for apparel produced by businesses that use organic materials, provide decent salaries, uphold moral principles, or offer more durable goods. therefore, to be more responsible and have an impact on customers’ purchase decisions, rapid fashion needs to consider its products from their perspective. From this perspective, sustainable consumer behavior is beneficial for both individuals and Figure 16. trending topics. Source: R studio. 20 D. aggarWal etal. society. it is imperative for the fashion industry to adopt a more sustainable way of doing things. Understanding how to facilitate this change is crucial (solino et al., 2020) 6.4. Luxury, social media, and trust a plethora of materials are available on social media to enhance one’s comprehension of sustainable fashion consumption. social science studies may be able to capture social behaviors associated with sustainable fashion consumption as they are reflected in sM because genY and genZ are readily visible on the platform and share their everyday routines and activities(s. Jung & Jin, 2016). an ethnographic analysis could depict the relationships among members of communities of practice for sustainable fashion, or the evolving attitudes and beliefs of customers who begin implementing new sustainable behaviors without much information. the interplay between luxury, social media, and trust reshapes the fashion landscape(n. Paul et al., 2022). social media emphasizes authentic involvement and unified online presence, making it a potent tool for brands to build and maintain trust. the current study makes two significant contributions: (a) it sees slow fashion as a concept that is integrated with sustainable fashion, expanding the body of knowledge; (b) By providing a guide on ‘existing research directions and suggesting the emerging tendencies in this field,’ this analysis helps those who are new to the field of sustainable and slow fashion. it provides significant and accurate insights that policymakers, academics, and organizations may find useful. Future research on sustainable fashion and corporate social responsibility (csr) should focus on supply chain management and consumer ethical decision-making, particularly regarding what drives companies to adopt csr initiatives (testa et al., 2022). it is essential to explore the foundational elements of csr in the fashion industry and how these efforts can enhance profits and ethical practices (aggarwal, 2023), especially given the rising issue of clothing overconsumption and disposal, which calls for solutions like clothing exchanges or rentals (satar etal., 2023). the concept of sustainable development, which encompasses environmental, social, and economic dimensions, underscores the need to balance economic growth with environmental protection to ensure resource availability for future generations (Preuit & Yan, 2016; Štefko & steffek, 2018). additionally, consumer behavior is crucial, as shoppers increasingly prefer brands that prioritize sustainability and ethics (solino et al., 2020). the interplay between luxury, social media, and trust is also reshaping the fashion landscape, making social media a vital tool for brands to engage authentically with consumers (n. Paul etal., 2022). Overall, the study contributes valuable insights into slow and sustainable fashion, offering guidance for policymakers and industry stakeholders. Authors’ contribution Deepanshi aggarwal: conceptualization, Writing—original draft preparation; Fazla rabby: conceptualization, Writing— review and editing, software, Formal analysis, Visualization; Mochammad Fahlevi: Writing—original draft preparation, Methodology, Validation, investigation, Data curation, Project administration; andhyka Muttaqin: Writing—review and editing, Validation, investigation, resources, Funding acquisition; rohit Bansal: Writing—review and editing, Methodology, Visualization, supervision, Project administration Disclosure statement no potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s). Funding this research received grant from Brawijaya University. About the authors Dr. Deepanshi Aggarwal, assistant Professor at tit&s Bhiwani, brings academic excellence as a gold Medalist in B.com & M.com honours from Maharshi Dayanand University. her research focuses on Marketing & Finance, with publications in top-tier journals (scopus, Web of science, Ugc care, aBDc) and conference presentations. cOgent BUsiness & ManageMent 21 Dr. Fazla Rabby is a dynamic and innovative business manager with a robust educational background, extensive teaching experience, and a proven track record in academia and industry. Dr. Fazla rabby earned his PhD from the University of southern Queensland while his Master in information systems is from central Queensland University, along with various other credentials that further enhanced his business and information technology skills. Dr. rabby is currently the Director at the stanford institute of Management and technology, where he manages the academic department and oversees regulatory matters in coordination with the government and other key stakeholders. his commitment to research is a cornerstone of his academic journey, manifesting in a series of impactful publications spanning diverse and rapidly evolving fields. notably, his research contributions include insightful books, book chapters and articles focused on cutting-edge topics such as Blockchain technology, Digital Marketing, and artificial intelligence. these publications reflect his dedication to expanding the boundaries of knowledge and demonstrate a proactive engagement with emerging technologies that are pivotal in today’s academic landscape. During my tenure as an academic at different universities and institutes, Dr Fazla rabby played a pivotal role in fostering a dynamic learning environment. he delivered lectures beyond traditional boundaries, incorporating interactive workshops and engaging seminars to stimulate critical thinking among students. collaborating with fellow academics, he actively refined teaching methods, emphasising innovative approaches to enhance the learning experience. Dr. rabby is also an active member of several professional bodies, including the australian computer society, ieee and the australian Marketing association. Dr. Mochammad Fahlevi is a distinguished scholar with a doctoral degree from the Brawijaya University. currently holding the position of assistant professor at Bina nusantara University, he also serves as a research fellow at Universiti sultan Zainal abidin (UnisZa) in Malaysia. his research focuses on corporate governance and financial management. as the founder of the Privietlab research center, Dr. Fahlevi has made significant contributions to the field, earning recognition among the top 2% of researchers worldwide in business management by stanford University and elsevier. he is also an active editor and reviewer of several high-impact academic journals. Andhyka Muttaqin, affiliated with the Faculty of administrative sciences at Universitas Brawijaya (UB) in Malang, was born in Madiun in 1985. he has held a faculty position in the UB since 2010. Muttaqin completed his undergraduate studies in the Public administration Department at UB Malang and subsequently obtained a master’s degree in the state administration Department at gadjah Mada University. additionally, he has frequently participated in various strategic research projects at regional and national levels funded by the aPBD/aPBn and has served as an expert staff member for the Batu city DPrD. Dr. Rohit Bansal is working as a Faculty in Department of Management studies in Vaish college of engineering, rohtak. he obtained Ph.D. in Management from Maharshi Dayanand University, rohtak. With a rich experience of 17 years, he has achieved growth through robust and proactive academic initiatives. he has authored & edited 43 books with renowned national & international publishers including springer nature, igi global, scrivener-Wiley Publishing, De gruyter, central West Publishing etc. in addition to, Dr. rohit has published 160 research papers and chapters in journals of repute including scopus indexed as well as edited books. his research work is published in leading publishers like springer, MDPi, hindawi, igi global, cell Press, De gruyter, elseveir, inderscience, Wiley etc. he has also presented papers in 55 conferences and seminars including iiM indore, iiM ranchi, iiM Jammu and iiM kozhikode. his area of interest includes marketing management, organizational behavior, services marketing, customer engagement, digital marketing, influencer marketing, human resource management, emerging technologies, e-learning and sustainable development. he is Managing editor of international Journal of 360° Management review. he has served as member of technical committee in many international conferences. he has acted as session chair and speaker in many international conferences. ORCID Deepanshi aggarwal http://orcid.org/0000-0001-7707-3441 Fazla rabby http://orcid.org/0000-0002-2683-7218 Mochammad Fahlevi http://orcid.org/0000-0002-1419-8308 andhyka Muttaqin http://orcid.org/0000-0003-4195-7610 rohit Bansal http://orcid.org/0000-0001-7072-5005 Data availability statement the data presented in this study are available upon request from the corresponding authors. References aggarwal, D. (2023). how enviropreneurial marketing research evolved overtime: a bibliometric analysis from 1999 to 2021. African J. of Economic and Sustainable Development, 9(2), 87–100. https://doi.org/10.1504/aJesD.2023.129019 22 D. aggarWal etal. Biancone, P., Brescia, V., & Oppioli, M. (2023). Modest Fashion and Sustainability: Research Trends by Bibliometric and Content Analysis. DeU. https://iris.unito.it/handle/2318/1905333 Bly, s., gwozdz, W., & reisch, l. a. (2015). exit from the high street: an exploratory study of sustainable fashion consumption pioneers. 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