Creating a sustainable future: insights into brand marketing in the luxury fashion industry

Kaur, Harpreet; Choudhary, Shruti; Manoj, Adarsh; Tyagi, Muskan Article Creating a sustainable future: insights into brand marketing in the luxury fashion industry Cogent Business & Management Provided in Cooperation with: Taylor & Francis Group Suggested Citation: Kaur, Harpreet; Choudhary, Shruti; Manoj, Adarsh; Tyagi, Muskan (2024) : Creating a sustainable future: insights into brand marketing in the luxury fashion industry, Cogent Business & Management, ISSN 2331-1975, Taylor & Francis, Abingdon, Vol. 11, Iss. 1, pp. 1-17, https://doi.org/10.1080/23311975.2024.2328391 This Version is available at: https://hdl.handle.net/10419/326154 Standard-Nutzungsbedingungen: Die Dokumente auf EconStor dürfen zu eigenen wissenschaftlichen Zwecken und zum Privatgebrauch gespeichert und kopiert werden. Sie dürfen die Dokumente nicht für öffentliche oder kommerzielle Zwecke vervielfältigen, öffentlich ausstellen, öffentlich zugänglich machen, vertreiben oder anderweitig nutzen. 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If the documents have been made available under an Open Content Licence (especially Creative Commons Licences), you may exercise further usage rights as specified in the indicated licence. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Cogent Business & Management ISSN: 2331-1975 (Online) Journal homepage: www.tandfonline.com/journals/oabm20 Creating a sustainable future: insights into brand marketing in the luxury fashion industry Harpreet Kaur, Shruti Choudhary, Adarsh Manoj & Muskan Tyagi To cite this article: Harpreet Kaur, Shruti Choudhary, Adarsh Manoj & Muskan Tyagi (2024) Creating a sustainable future: insights into brand marketing in the luxury fashion industry, Cogent Business & Management, 11:1, 2328391, DOI: 10.1080/23311975.2024.2328391 To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/23311975.2024.2328391 © 2024 The Author(s). Published by Informa UK Limited, trading as Taylor & Francis Group Published online: 22 Mar 2024. Submit your article to this journal Article views: 9245 View related articles View Crossmark data Citing articles: 6 View citing articles Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at https://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=oabm20 Cogent Business & ManageMent 2024, VoL. 11, no. 1, 2328391 Creating a sustainable future: insights into brand marketing in the luxury fashion industry Harpreet Kaur , Shruti Choudhary, Adarsh Manoj and Muskan Tyagi school of Commerce, Finance and accountancy, CHRist (Deemed to be university), Delhi, india ABSTRACT This paper aims to develop a conceptual framework that elucidates the factors that impact sustainable luxury brand marketing, specifically focusing on the luxury fashion industry. The framework aims to highlight the role played by the industry in promoting economic, social, and environmental sustainability. By examining these factors, the study seeks to contribute to a better understanding of how luxury fashion brands can effectively incorporate sustainability into their marketing strategies, thereby fostering a more sustainable and responsible approach to luxury consumption. Applying the theoretical framework derived from the literature review and systematic mapping approach, we examine its relevance in the luxury fashion market. This exploration allows us to assess its practical applicability and gather empirical evidence regarding sustainable brand marketing in this context. This research will give an in-depth analysis of the major elements influencing the consumption of sustainable luxury goods. The findings expand our understanding of the sustainable practices adopted by luxury fashion brands, providing valuable insights for academia and the industry. This study’s implications are profound: luxury brand managers can enhance brand value through insights on sustainable fashion consumption drivers, while sustainable brands gain strategies for audience engagement and loyalty. 1. Introduction Governments, private organization and consumers are increasingly advocating the need to adopt more ecologically sustainable consumption and business models. This groundswell of support is driven by concerns about the harmful environmental effects of climate change and the limited natural resources that are being depleted due to growing populations, especially in agriculture. Sustainability practices aim to meet present needs without compromising the needs of future generations (Franco et al., 2019; Kerr & Landry, 2017). The luxury fashion industry is one sector that has been particularly scrutinized for its business practices concerning sustainability. Recently the fashion industry has come under critical scrutiny from the media. Despite being a US $3 trillion industry representing 2% of the world’s Gross Domestic Product (Fashion United, 2018; GDP), the industry’s sustainability shortcomings have been exposed by various incidents, such as Burberry’s burning of unsold clothes and the BBC’s documentary ‘Fashion’s Dirty Secrets’. These events have shed light on the social impact of fashion and raised concerns about traditional fashion production and consumption practices. To address these concerns, sustainable luxury fashion (SLF) has emerged as a term encompassing clothing and behaviors that are less harmful to people and the planet. This movement has introduced alternative approaches to fashion, such as eco-fashion, ethical fashion, and slow-fashion, which challenge the rest of the industry to slow down and adopt more sustainable practices (Amatulli, De Angelis, & Donato, 2021). While the practical climate for SLF is rapidly developing through various © 2024 the author(s). Published by informa uK Limited, trading as taylor & Francis group. CONTACT Harpreet Kaur [email protected] school of Commerce, Finance and accountancy, CHRist (Deemed to be university), Delhi nCR Campus, Delhi, india https://doi.org/10.1080/23311975.2024.2328391 this is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. the terms on which this article has been published allow the posting of the accepted Manuscript in a repository by the author(s) or with their consent. ARTICLE HISTORY Received 17 March 2023 Revised 3 February 2024 Accepted 28 February 2024 KEYWORDS Sustainability; luxury; branding; sustainable luxury fashion; sustainability challenges; purchase intention; attitude; fashion industry REVIEWING EDITOR Sharma Nitika, International Management Institute – New Delhi, India SUBJECTS Sustainability; Marketing; Sales; Brand Management; Consumer Behaviour; Relationship Marketing MARKeTING | ReSeARCH ARTICLe 2 H. KAUR eTAL. initiatives, the academic literature, with few exceptions has been slow to define and conceptualize SLF (Henninger et al., 2016). Unlike other industries with modest sustainability records, luxury fashion companies have faced criticism for damaging biodiversity, animal abuse, generating waste and pollution, and exploitative labor practices, especially in developing countries (Hepner et al., 2020; Woodside & Fine, 2019). Moreover, luxury fashion is accused of failing to use recycled and reusable materials and of shunning the circular economy. Despite these concerns, the luxury fashion sector has grown astoundingly, with a retail market of over US $1 trillion (Brosseau et al., 2019). Luxury goods and services were once only accessible to the wealthy, but now younger consumers and all social classes can afford them, a phenomenon known as the democratisation of luxury (Jain etal., 2017). In addition to increasing consumer desire for luxury brands, this democratisation, facilitated by fashion companies, launched affordable brands marketed through shopping malls or sold online, such as Polo Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Tag Heuer Hepner (Woodside & Fine, 2019). These brands often take advantage of lower production costs to enhance affordability and are referred to as ‘masstige’—having broad consumer accessibility while maintaining an image of prestige (Diddi & Niehm, 2017). Luxury fashion brands significantly impact the economy, with the industry valued at US $240 billion (Hashmi, 2017). However, many luxury firms are not profitable due to intense competition and abundant brand choices for consumers in the global market. Sustainable brand marketing suggests that a strong brand identity is essential to compete in the luxury fashion market (Böcker & Meelen, 2017). This can be achieved through various means, including innovative and impeccable product craftsmanship, innovation in sustainable practices, exclusivity, recognizable style, and premium pricing (Legere & Kang, 2020). From the customer’s perspective, luxury brands offer multifaceted benefits, such as social status, identity affirmation, and a sense of belonging. To maintain a strong brand identity and relevant branding strategy, luxury firms have invested millions of dollars in developing comprehensive corporate brand identities, such as the top four conglomerates Prada, Gucci Group NV, LVMH, and Richemont Group. A successful corporate branding strategy allows luxury firms to create distinguishable brands that attract customers’ preferences and loyalty (Kapferer & Valette-Florence, 2022). In the context of this background, this theoretical paper is positioned. This paper aims to address two primary objectives. Firstly, it sheds light on the sustainability concerns that the luxury fashion industry is facing. Secondly, it seeks to comprehensively explore factors influencing sustainable luxury consumption and its role in helping luxury fashion marketers understand their consumers and develop sustainable marketing strategies (Athwal et al., 2019; Kapferer & Michaut-Denizeau, 2020). Balancing survival goals with sustainability objectives is a significant challenge for luxury fashion marketers. Marketing theory and concepts must shift to address the negative impact of consumption (Hepner etal., 2020; Kaur & Arora, 2019). While some corporate sectors have actively adopted the sustainability agenda, the luxury industry has lagged behind (Hashmi, 2017). This is interesting because the luxury market is viewed as exacerbating socioeconomic disparities, igniting social instability, and ignoring environmental and animal welfare concerns (Kong etal., 2021). This paper discusses sustainability measures that cover social, environmental, and economic aspects as outlined in the triple bottom line (TBL) model. While our study is focused on the luxury fashion sector, the insights presented in this paper are highly relevant to managers in other industries. By understanding their consumers better, luxury fashion marketers can develop sustainable business models that strike a balance between survival goals and sustainability objectives. Through this paper, we hope to encourage the shift towards sustainable practices in the luxury fashion industry (Amatulli, De Angelis, Peluso, et al., 2021). By exploring the reasons why customers buy luxury goods and to what extent they are aware of the ethical implications of such consumption, we can help the luxury fashion industry transition towards sustainability and promote ethical consumption (Amatulli, De Angelis, & Donato, 2021; Dean, 2018; Kapferer & Michaut-Denizeau, 2020). Thus, the paper starts with a discussion of the conceptual framework and an overview of the literature concerning Schwartz’s value dimensions and Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB). Followed by the conceptual framework, discussion and implications and finally, the limitations and future research scope of the study is provided in the last section. CoGeNT BUSINeSS & MANAGeMeNT 3 2. Overview of literature Based on the existing literature, there is a possibility for developing the idea of sustainable luxury and researching consumer and marketing trends in the luxury sector. This agenda is further extended and demonstrates the need for further research to support the sustainable growth of the luxury industry. effective marketing tactics for future sustainable-luxury products are yet unknown, and a precise definition of sustainable luxury is still elusive. The research has shown that the luxury industry stands to win and lose significantly from moving toward more sustainable practices and that any sustainability plan must be in line with the core values of luxury, which include heritage, quality, longevity, and timelessness (Jain & Mishra, 2020; Li & Leonas, 2019; Wang et al., 2021). 2.1. Sustainability The broadly accepted definition of sustainable development is rooted in the principle of meeting current needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs (Brundtland Commission. World Commission on environment and Development WCeD, 1987, p. 43). This foundational concept acknowledges the finite nature of resources and emphasizes the need for responsible management to ensure their sustainability for future generations. In contemporary times, consumers exhibit a distinct preference for ethical and environmentally conscious products that align with their values and beliefs (Hennigs et al., 2013; Jain & Mishra, 2020). As a holistic concept, sustainability extends beyond environmental considerations, encompassing aspects such as personal well-being, elevated quality of life, and a sense of responsibility toward the community (Pavione etal., 2016). Consumers today actively seek out green products that not only resonate with their values but also contribute to a more sustainable and responsible lifestyle. Previous studies have categorized sustainable fashion consumption into sociocultural, ego-centred, and eco-centered values (Cervellon & Shammas, 2013). Moreover, luxury sustainability customer values have been classified into financial, functional, personal, and interpersonal categories (Hennigs etal., 2013). Ki and Kim (2016) revealed that intrinsic values related to personal style and social consciousness were significant drivers of sustainable luxury purchases. In contrast, environmental consciousness did not significantly impact these decisions. 2.2. Luxury and sustainability Luxury and sustainability have traditionally been viewed as incompatible by consumers, as indicated by research conducted by Kapferer and Michaut-Denizeau (2014) and Kong et al. (2016). However, since 2015, the luxury industry has drawn the attention of advocates for sustainable development, according to Johnstone and Tan (2015). Luxury consumers tend to view certain luxury items as inherently sustainable, as noted in various studies (Amatulli et al., 2017; Diddi & Niehm, 2017). Scholars refer to this newfound compatibility between luxury and sustainability as ‘positive luxury’ (Winston, 2017), ‘green luxury’ (Kong et al., 2016), and ‘responsible luxury’ (Janssen et al., 2014). According to Kapferer and Laurent (2016), luxury goods must have rare raw materials, exceptional quality, noble components, and preserve artisanal practices across generations. Additionally, transparency in manufacturing conditions is essential for luxury, as high quality that harms the environment cannot be considered true luxury. Thus, Kong et al. (2016) argues that luxury products created locally by talented artists respecting the source of raw materials are consistent with sustainability. Many major luxury groups have also transformed their value chain into an eco-friendly one, including post-purchase recycling, according to Winston (2017) and Kapferer and Michaut-Denizeau (2020). 2.3. Fashion and sustainability There has been a prevailing assumption that fashion and sustainability are incompatible concepts. Fashion is often associated with constant change and innovation, leading to short production runs and fast style cycles, which can result in waste. In contrast, sustainability is related to enduring quality over time (Hashmi, 2017). However, some categories of luxury fashion, such as luggage, watches, or jewellery, 4 H. KAUR eTAL. can leverage their heritage to produce high-quality, durable, and timeless products which can be sustainable. In this context, luxury and sustainability can be interdependent, where both benefit from such a partnership. Moreover, merging sustainability and luxury appeals to customers, especially to new generations of consumers who value brands that incorporate sustainable practices as part of their values. Consumer behavior is shifting from self-indulgence to community concerns, from conspicuous consumption to conscientious consumption, and from immediate gratification to concern for future generations (Jain et al., 2017). Therefore, many luxury brands are including new practices and evolving sustainable business practices to meet the expectations of customers who are more sensitive to a brand’s sustainability narrative. Sustainability can also become a marketing strategy. A sustainable image can differentiate one brand from another, providing a competitive advantage. Sustainability practices require considering the entire value chain, which may require creating strategic partnerships with suppliers. By doing so, luxury brands can appeal to their customers’ expectations while also benefiting from a sustainable image. 2.4. Major sustainability challenges and strategies Luxury fashion companies must quickly recognize and respond to sustainability challenges and adopt sustainable models. This section discusses the significant sustainability challenges that fashion luxury firms face in three essential dimensions: social, environmental, and economic. Regarding social challenges, the luxury fashion industry has been criticized for accepting dangerous working conditions in factories, engaging in gender inequality, and paying meager wages. The fashion luxury sector faces social challenges on two levels: Firstly, to safeguard the well-being of all employees (the firm-oriented approach), the organization should ensure that all actions enhance employees’ quality of life within the company while also being aware of arrangements across the entire supply chain. Secondly, to protect the well-being of society (the market-oriented approach), the concern should be for the whole industry, not just the firm. Market-level involvement ensures that decisions made at the industry level are informed and beneficial for all stakeholders (Rattalino, 2018). To achieve this, firms in a particular market need to monitor trends in consumer attitudes and behavior continuously, changes to government regulations and policies at home and abroad, and emerging technological innovations. For instance, LVMH, a conglomerate of luxury brands, has taken comprehensive steps towards sustainability. Brands under the LVMH umbrella, such as Louis Vuitton and Dior, have not only embraced sustainable materials and practices within their collections and marketing campaigns but have also recognized the imperative of addressing social issues. LVMH’s ‘Life 360’ sustainability strategy plays a pivotal role in guiding these efforts, illustrating a collective commitment not only to environmental responsibility but also to addressing social challenges that are inherent in the pursuit of sustainable luxury fashion. – Angevine et al. (2021) Patagonia’s emphasis on quality and socially responsible consumption sets a noteworthy example. Their marketing strategy, though not typical of luxury brands, underscores the company’s unwavering commitment to social values. By encouraging consumers to choose fewer, higher-quality items, Patagonia not only promotes responsible consumption but also fosters a community of conscientious consumers who prioritize ethical and socially responsible choices in the domain of fashion. – Rattalino (2018) environmental challenges are a significant concern for the luxury fashion industry as it relies heavily on unique and rare natural resources threatened by climate change, population growth, biodiversity loss, and excessive demand. This situation could impact the availability and cost of critical materials that affect the price of luxury goods. The fashion luxury sector faces two significant environmental challenges. Firstly, luxury firms must ensure and preserve natural resources used in production, which is crucial for maintaining their competitive advantage. This requires adopting new practices to regenerate ecosystems and secure the supply of raw materials. Secondly, luxury firms must find new types of sustainable natural resources or create substitutes for current raw materials through production and design innovations. To exemplify, Gucci, a leading luxury fashion brand, has launched the ‘Gucci equilibrium’ platform, dedicated to environmental and social sustainability. This initiative includes a commitment to carbon neutrality and the utilization of CoGeNT BUSINeSS & MANAGeMeNT 5 sustainable materials such as eCoNYL, a regenerated nylon fabric sourced from discarded fishing nets. Gucci’s marketing campaigns emphasize these sustainability efforts, appealing to eco-conscious consumers. – Hendriksz (2018) Burberry, a luxury brand, has embarked on ambitious sustainability goals, with a commitment to achieving carbon neutrality by 2022. The ‘ReBurberry’ initiative centers on recycling and upcycling, while ‘Burberry Regeneration’ supports environmentally-focused youth projects. These initiatives take center stage in Burberry’s marketing campaigns, underscoring their unwavering dedication to sustainability. – Angevine et al. (2021) on the economic front, luxury firms must take strategic and operational actions to become ecologically sustainable. They must go beyond reducing environmental damage and preventing pollution by finding innovative systems to produce, reuse, and exploit materials and products. For instance, H&M, while not traditionally considered a luxury brand, has introduced the ‘Conscious Collection’ to provide sustainable fashion options at affordable prices. The marketing for this collection targets consumers seeking both affordability and sustainability in their fashion choices. – Whiting (2019) Prada’s ‘Re-Nylon’ Project, with its focus on recycling ocean plastics to produce sustainable nylon products, is a pivotal driver of economic value within their marketing strategy. Prada’s campaigns emphasize the intersection of environmental responsibility and innovation, showcasing how sustainability can contribute to both brand success and economic prosperity in the luxury fashion industry. – Indvik (2016) Measuring the impact of their environmental and social footprint is also essential. The most critical economic challenge facing the luxury fashion industry is to engage in the circular economy, which involves recycling and reusing materials in a closed-loop system. Luxury firms can manufacture without polluting by becoming eco-efficient and contributing to a more sustainable future. In conclusion, luxury fashion companies must navigate social, environmental, and economic sustainability challenges, as exemplified by industry leaders like LVMH, Gucci, and Burberry, while fostering innovation and responsible practices to ensure a sustainable and prosperous future. 3. Existing theories Fusion of the Schwartz Value Theory and Theory of Planned Behavior Schwartz’s value theory is used for research on attitude and behavior with a preference for individuals’ or groups’ underlying ideals (Kaur & Arora, 2019; Pai et al., 2022). The theory focuses on understanding the impact of values on consumers’ attitudes and behaviors surrounding the consumption of sustainable luxury products as exhibited in Figure 1. The foremost challenge people confront balancing their self-interest and pro-social and pro-environmental ambitions. Their dynamic structure motivates them with these dilemmas (person-focus versus social-focus). Another theoretical framework employed in this study is the Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB) proposed by Ajzen (1991), which integrates societal ideals and personal values into various consumer behavior studies (Jain et al., 2017; Simanjuntak & Putra, 2021). TPB was developed to enhance the Theory of Reasoned Action (TRA) and address its limitations (Ajzen, 1991; Kumar et al., 2022). According to TPB, people’s attitudes toward behavior, subjective norms, and perceived behavioral control (PBC) all Figure 1. the influence of culture on behavior. source: adler (1997). 6 H. KAUR eTAL. contribute to their behavioral intention and subsequent behavior, as exhibited in Figure 2. Scholars have utilized TPB to investigate the relationship between ethical ideals and behavioral motivations (Brandão & Da Costa, 2021). environmental awareness, knowledge, attitudes, and purchasing intentions have been examined in studies exploring the influence of ethical and materialistic values on consumers’ willingness to purchase counterfeit items (Kaur et al., 2021). This research relies on a combined theoretical framework comprising the Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB) and Schwartz’s value theory. These frameworks are employed to explore the correlation between Schwartz’s values (self-direction, stimulation, hedonism, achievement, power, security, conformity, tradition, benevolence, and universalism) and the components of TPB in the context of sustainable luxury fashion goods. The TPB provides a foundation for examining various constructs to elucidate consumer behavior (Ajzen, 1991). Building on existing literature, this study expands the TPB model to integrate cultural and Schwartz’s values dimensions within the facets of sustainable luxury, exhibited in Figure 3. Figure 2. theory of planned behavior. source: ajzen (1991, p. 182). Figure 3. Conceptual integration of theory of planned behavior and schwartz value theory. source: author (s) work. CoGeNT BUSINeSS & MANAGeMeNT 7 Furthermore, a positive correlation has been identified between attitude, subjective norm, perceived behavioral control, and consumers’ inclination to purchase luxury goods (Youn et al., 2021). Customers’ perceptions of the brand, subjective norms, attitudes toward advertisements, engagement in eco-fashion, and environmental concern have been identified as antecedents to the intention to purchase environmentally conscious clothing brands (Su & Tong, 2020). McNeill and Moore (2015) established a strong relationship between one’s fashion perspective, peer pressure, and understanding of sustainable fashion when examining the link between attitude and behavior. The past research exclusively believes luxury’s economic and reputational aspects and fails to apprehend luxury purchases’ as the more individualized, subjective, and argumentative characters (Jain et al., 2017; Wallace et al. 2020). The strategies for sustainable-luxury marketing are yet largely undetermined, and a precise definition of sustainable luxury is indeed elusive. The prospect of different and conflicting viewpoints has increased as the luxury environment changes over time. 4. Determinants influencing the intention to purchase sustainable luxury The factors impacting the intention to purchase sustainable luxury; four significant categories may be used to group various aspects of sustainable luxury buying intention, including culture, self-oriented (personal) ideals, others-oriented (social) ideals, and economic benefit as exhibited in the Figure 3. 4.1. Culture Culture plays a significant influence on an individual’s behavior as evidenced by Jain (2019). In numerous studies, culture has emerged as a pivotal factor in elucidating consumer purchasing patterns for sustainable products. Figure 1 portrays the profound cultural influence on values, attitudes, and behaviors. Numerous studies have consistently highlighted the ‘individualism/collectivism’ dimension as the primary cultural factor for understanding variations in consumer behavior across different nations. According to Czarnecka and Schivinski (2021), individuals with higher collectivism scores are more inclined to support sustainable business practices and attribute different values to recycling activities. This finding suggests that people from collectivistic cultures prioritize community-oriented behaviors and are more likely to invest in products that benefit their community (Rehman, 2021). In collectivist societies, group achievements, pro-social principles, and collective advantages hold greater significance compared to individual rewards. The preservation of the environment is seen as a means to advance society as a whole (Diddi & Niehm, 2017). on the other hand, individualistic cultures tend to exhibit an ego-centric value orientation, motivating individuals to preserve the environment based on personal interests (Amatulli et al., 2017). Some studies have classified certain cultures as ‘ego-centered’ while others as ‘eco-centered’ (Henninger et al., 2016). For example, consumers influenced by French and Italian cultures may exhibit a desire to showcase their environmental awareness as a means of self-expression and social status. They buy eco-friendly luxury goods to be recognised by society as conscious buyers. In other cultures, the primary drivers of sustainable luxury spending are economic values, including superior quality, high end fashion brands, premium price and individual values, including hedonism, greater quality, health, and well-being (McCormick & Ram, 2022; Henninger et al., 2016). 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