StitchWear: Inspirando la recuperación de bordados antiguos a través de la moda urbana

UNIVERSIDAD DE VALLADOLID ESCUELA DE INGENIERIAS INDUSTRIALES G ado en Ingenie ía de Diseño Indus ial y Desa ollo de P oduc o S i chWea : Inspi ando la ecupe ación de bo dados an iguos a a és de la moda u bana Au o : Muñoz Balad ón, Isabel Responsable de In e cambio: Eusebio de la Fuen e López Uni e sidad de des ino: Oslo Me opoli an Uni e si y Valladolid, Julio 2021. TFG REALIZADO EN PROGRAMA DE INTERCAMBIO TÍTULO: S i chWea : inspi ing people o gi e old emb oide y new li e h ough s ee wea . ALUMNO: Isabel Muñoz Balad ón FECHA: 7/04/2021 CENTRO: OsloMe – Campus i Kjelle UNIVERSIDAD: Oslo Me opoli an Uni e si y (OsloMe ) TUTOR: Vibeke Sjø oll RESUMEN El p esen e p oyec o pa e del análisis de di e en es obje os desechados po la sociedad ac ual, ecupe ando su as ondo cul u al, con el obje i o de o ece al e na i as de uso y ein oduci el ma e ial desca ado en el diseño de nue os p oduc os. Se cen a en los bo dados hechos a mano adicionales en No uega, donde han pasado de moda como deco ación del hoga . En es e con ex o nace S i chWea , una ma ca de moda en ocada en ace ca es as piezas de a esanía a las nue as gene aciones. El obje i o es que sean conscien es de su alo cul u al y empo al y puedan inco po a los a su es ilo de ida u bano en o ma de p endas y acceso ios ealizados po ellos mismos. El desa ollo de la ma ca incluye el diseño del con enido digi al que o ece a a és de la pla a o ma Ins ag am, a modo de ídeos, o og a ías, consejos y u o iales que acili en la a ea de c eación de nue os diseños a pa i de los bo dados o iginales. PALABRAS CLAVE Bo dado, cul u a, diseño, moda u bana, Ins ag am. ABSTRACT This p ojec s a s om he analysis o di e en objec s disca ded by oday's socie y, eco e ing hei cul u al backg ound in o de o o e al e na i es o usage, and eusing he disca ded ma e ial o new p oduc s. The ocus is pu on handmade emb oide y, adi ional in No way, whe e i has gone ou o s yle as home deco a ion. In his con ex , we c ea ed, S i chWea , a ashion b and ocused on making hese handic a s appealing o new gene a ions. The aim is o hem o be awa e o he cul u al and empo al alue o hese pieces, being able o inco po a e hem in o hei u ban li es yle in he o m o ga men s and accesso ies made by hemsel es. The de elopmen o he b and includes he design o he digi al con en o e ed h ough Ins ag am, as ideos, pic u es, ips and u o ials ha acili a e he ask o c ea ing new designs om he o iginal emb oide ies. KEY WORDS Emb oide y, cul u e, design, s ee wea , Ins ag am. 11 BAPD 2210 Cul u al unde s anding and communica ion By Isabel Muñoz, Hans A ne Skå e e ke , Mads Ugland, He mine Poppe 2 This is us! Hans A ne He mine Ma s Isabel In o e In o e In o e In o e Digi alDigi al Digi al Digi al TechnicalTechnical Technical Technical Ex o e Ex o e Ex o e Ex o e AnalogAnalog Analog Analog Aes he icAes he ic Aes he ic Aes he ic 33 Index In o In oduc ion Resea ch ques ion Goals Me hods The p ocess P ocess 3 concep s The p ojec His o y Cul u e and alue In e iew Analysis Engaging hemes Ideas using hemes Expe imen a ion The esea ch ques ion S ee wea Use g oup P oduc ideas Final p oduc s P ocess wo k Communica ing he p ojec solu ion Solu ion Ou goal Emb oide y on clo hes Reaching he use A pla o m o sha ing Visual iden i y The way o wa d Conclusion Sou ces 4 5 6 7 8 10 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 20 22 23 24 27 29 30 32 34 35 36 38 39 41 42 43 44 4 InT oducTion Pu pose: In h i s o es and Recyling s a ions all o e No way you will ind an abundance o hand emb oide ed pieces o a , le unwan ed o being des oyed. Emb oide ed wall-hange s, ableclo hs and apes ies a e no longe wan ed in people’s homes. We wish o hono hese wo ks by blowing new li e in o hem and make hem mo e desi ed by younge gene a ions. Me hods: To show he wo ld he po en ial o hese a pieces we ha e c ea ed he b and S i chWea . S i chWea is a s ee ashion b and making upcycled appa el om old emb oide ies no o be sold o consume s, bu o be sha ed h ough social media. We hope ha his will inspi e o he s o do he same. Resul s: Wha we ha e ended up is an Ins ag am accoun egula ly uploading inspi a ion and examples o p ojec s using emb oide y. We ha e made a jacke , a acemask, a o e bag and a bel all cons uc ed o deco a ed wi h old emb oide y. We ha e also made a “How o” ideo, o gi e people he knowledge hey need o s a hei own p ojec s. Implica ions: While i ’s oo ea ly o decla e whe he o no we ha e achie ed ou goal o inspi ing o he s o gi e new li e o old emb oide ies, we ha e p o en ha i ’s possible o u n old emb oide y in o some hing endy and desi able. We ha e he ounda ion o c ea e mo e p oduc s o sha e and inspi e in he u u e. 55 esea ch quesTion ”How o inspi e people o gi e old emb oide y new li e h ough s ee wea ashion.” 6 Goals • To inspi e people o see he possibili ies o using old emb oide y. • Change he con ex o he emb oide ies o i he con empo a y ime. • Make emb ode ies accessible o young people. 1313 hisTo y Emb oide y is an a o m olde han ci iliza ion. The i s indings a e om a ound 30 000 BC, and ha e been ound all o e he wo ld e en be o e a e was widely a ailable. Up un il he 20 h cen u y i was ese ed o uppe -class housewi es as hey we e he only ones wi h enough ime. As houshold appliances go mo e au oma ed du ing he 20 h cen u y, lowe class women also go mo e ime o spa e. This led o emb oide y quickly becoming a common pas ime o lowe -class women as well. (Say i wi h s i hes, The his o y o emb oide y n.d.) The ea lie coun s o emb oide y a e usually animal hides wi h deco a i e s i ching, o en accompanied wi h shells, pea ls and s ones. (Mo is, His o y o emb oide y, 2009) Figu e 1: Jen e som b ode e , 1955 (Pho o: La s B y), om Digi al Museum 14 culTu e and alue Emb oide y has always had a sense o alue a ached o i . Many young people oday associa e emb oide y wi h some hing old. I eminds hem o isi ing g andma o he co age wi h wall-hung emb oide y wi h ma ching pillows and a ableclo h. In he book Emo ional Design, Donald A. No man says ha ”We become a ached o hings i hey ha e a signi ican pe sonal associa ion, i hey b ing o mind pleasan , com o ing momen s.” (No man, 2007, p. 48) The memo ies gi es he emb oide y i sel a sen imen al alue o many o us. How can we use his alue and he ime pu in o he wo k, and u n he emb oide y in o some hing ha young people oday can use wi h p ide? Emb oide y was he women’s a o m, and all gi ls had emb oide y as pa o school om he middle o he 19 h cen u y. (Hodne, 1987, p. 116) La e emb oide ies s a o ea u e mo i es and image y o en depic ing his o ical e en s, lowe s o eligious symbols. I was a sign o weal h, and people he e o e o en used i as deco a ion a home. (S aniland, Medie al c a smen. Emb oide e s, 1997) Be lin wool wo k is a common emb oide y echnique. Wi h wool h ead on can as, you ollow a pa e n using c oss s i ch o en ed s i ch. (Wikipedia, Be lin wool wo k, 2021) This echnique is used on he emb oide ies we ha e used in he p ojec and is also he echnique used on he op pic u e. Figu e 2: Desembe , 1970 (Pho o: Gunna Pede sen A/S), om Digi- al Museum Figu e 3: Bokken Lasson, 1940 (Pho o: Rigmo Dahl Delphin), om Digi al Museum 1515 InTe iew Boys in pa icula p obably ha e his ela ionship, because in he old days only women did emb oide y. I was ”unaccep able” o boys o be in e es ed in some hing so” eminine.” Wha do you hink we can do o a ac he young use g oup? I hink i could be ex emely cool o edesign in age clo hes and combine his wi h emb oide y. I hink his could ha e helped o a ac he young use g oup, as many ha e become much mo e en i onmen ally conscious. On he side a e wo o he emb oide y she has made. This is an exce p om an in e iew we did wi h a 20-yea -old gi l who has emb oide y as a hobby. The in e iew ga e us inspi a ion and con i ma ion ha we we e on he igh ack. I was also o ge inpu om someone ou side he p ojec . Wha kind o ela ionship do you hink young people ha e o emb oide y? Mos people when hey hea he wo d ”emb oide y” p obably hink o he old days, as a big ”women’s p ojec ”. Bu I eel i has become mo e accep able o young people, especially boys o be in e es ed in emb oide y. 16 analysis We analyzed all he emb oide ies we had, o see i we could wo k a ound he s o y ha was al eady in hem. We w o e down he di e en elemen s in he composi ion, wha he con ex could be and how we unde s ood he s o y. The pic u e on he page shows he analysis we did o one o he emb oide ies. Then we b ains o med a ound how we could con inue on he s o y. We wo ked wi h hemes ha could make i mo e ele an in oday’s socie y. (see nex page) We asked ques ions like: Wha will his place look like in he u u e? Would i be ull o ou is s o maybe ubbish? 1717 One wish we had ea ly on was o make emb oide y in e es ing o oday’s young people. Se e al o he emb oide ies ell a s o y h ough pic u es, and an idea we had was o build on he s o y, o make i mo e engaging in oday’s socie y. The e o e, we had a b ains o ming on cu en opics ha people oday a e commi ed o. We asked bo h iends and amily be ween he ages o 16 - 25. In he end, we used his s o y elling echnique on one o he p oduc s, bu i is de ini ely an exci ing way o c ea e in e es a ound he emb oide y and make i mo e ele an . enGaGinG TheMes 18 Li e ing Indus y Ch is mas and alcohol Ideas usinG TheMes 1919 Clima e, G e a Thunbe g Skysc ape s and ci y building Tou is s 20 In he explo a o y phase o he p ojec , we did some expe imen a ion wi h bo h echnique and di e en ma e ials ha can be used o emb oide y. We es ed bo h how we could a ach ab ic o each o he , made di e en pa e ns and ex u es bo h wi h h ead and o he ma e ials, and used di e en echniques o ill holes and edges. This ga e us bo h lea ning and inspi a ion u he in he p ocess, and we eally needed a b eak om he digi al and a he wo k mo e physically in con ac wi h he ma e ial. expe iMenTaTion 2121 22 The esea ch quesTion 2929 D ess (bel ) To e bagDenim jacke Mask Use he a is ic alue o an emb oide y o sp uce up a d ess o o he ga men . I you wan o s and ou om he c owd wi h a s a emen piece, his bel will i you! Do you ha e an old denim jacke ha lacks soul and cha ac e ? Gi e he jacke mo e li e and ex u e and gi e he emb oide y he a en ion i dese es. The mask is some hing e e yone needs now and p obably in he u u e as well. Wi h emb oide y you can u n a bo ing mask in o some hing comple ely di e en . A o e bag can be used by gi ls and boys. Many ha e one a he back o he close , so use you imagina ion and gi e he emb oide y a new li e in a new con ex . Final p oducTs 30 p ocess wo k Wi h he d ess, We wan ed o wo k physically wi h ma e ials on a mannequin. We es ed wi h di e en ab ics and in combina- ion wi h he emb oide y. Due o closu e, we we e no able o make he d ess. He e we wo k wi h he holes on he bel , illed wi h a s ong o ange h ead, which c ea es con as o he emb oide y and makes he exp ession mo e play ul. He e we wo ked wi h placing he shape on op o he emb oide y. We wan ed o con ey he d eam o pu e o ganic na u e in an o he wise squa e and igh ci y. Maybe i ’s he na u e we will miss in he u u e. 3131 A pa o ou p ojec is o make ideos o show di e en echniques o adding and a aching emb oide y o clo hes. We chose o make a ideo o he o e bag because i had a a ia ion in he echniques. The mask was changed om g ay and dull o illed wi h geome ic shapes. This gi es a mo e mode n eel o he adi ional emb oide y, and is one way you can implemen emb oide y on a mask o make i a s a emen piece. He e we a ached he emb oide y o he denim jacke , whe e he o ganic edge slides in o he denim ab ic. We wan ed o p ese e he emb oide y in he bes possible way, while he s o y can be in luenced by con ex and ime. 32 The p esen a ion 25.03.21 The e a e many ways o ge hold o he iewe s a en ion, and we hough he bes way was by alking o ou a ge g oup om hei poin o iew. Since he s uden s in ou class a e gene ally in ou a ge g oup, i was pe ec . We made he decision o ha e a p esen a ion wi h ew wo ds, pic u es, and a ideo. Wi h he ideo we wan ed o isualize wha a use jou ney can look like o ou p ojec , in an in e es ing way, so ha he use can clea ly see hei ole in he p ojec . The slides in he p esen a ion ha e a clea isual iden i y, which makes i easy o ecognize us, and c ea es a connec ion o he Ins ag am p o ile. coMMunicaTinG The p ojecT 3333 34 soluTion We a e no p esen ing a p oduc , we a e p esen ing a b and, which has he in en ion o inspi e younge gene a ions o see he alue and ime ha a e in old emb oide ies. Wi h ou Ins ag am we a e ying o make isually appealing pos s ha will encou age people o app ecia e he olde emb oide ies and s a hei own p ojec s o gi ing hem a new li e. 3535 ou Goals To Inspi e people o see he possibili ies o using old emb oide y. To inspi e people some imes need someone o some hing o look up o. We wan ed o make objec s ha would spa k peoples c ea i i y and imagina ion. We wan ed o display a wide a ange o echniques, ideas and concep s o how one can inco po a e emb oide ies in o appa el. We hope people will build on and econ ex ualize ou ideas in o hei own p ojec s. Change he con ex o he emb oide ies o i he con empo a y ime. The di e en p ojec s we ha e made all econ ex ualise he emb oide ies in hei own way. The jacke aims o build a con as be ween old and new, he bel aims o inco po a e old es he ics in mo e mode n ou i s, he o e bag changes he meaning o he emb oide y by gi ing i a poli ical meaning and he mask is a p oduc ha has since las yea been used by e e yone. Make emb oide ies mo e accessible o you h. We ha e spen a lo o ime wo king ou how o each an audience. We ha e ac i ely wo ked wi h pe sonas and ha e been in dialogue wi h di e en s uden s om ou class, as hey all wi hin ou demog aphic. We ha e ied o ind wha opics oday’s you h a e ocused on. I has been impo an o us ha ou p ojec is accessible o all gende s and all economic backg ounds while beeing en i onmen ally iendly. 36 eMb oide y on cloThes 3737 38 eachinG The use Ou goal wi h he p ojec is o each ou o especially young people, wi h he oppo uni y o gi e G andma’s old emb oide y, which she has spen housands o hou s making, a new li e in a whole new con ex . We wan oday’s socie y o pay ibu e o he wo k behind he emb oide y, and ou p ojec will inspi e people o do his. We wan o c ea e in e es in and a ound hese aluable wo ks o a by pos ing pic u es and ideos o how we ha e gi en i a new li e, so ha you see he emb oide y om a new pe spec i e. J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s J o h a n n a K u Indus y F iends Followe s L i s e Classma es G andmo he P e - J o n a s Ska e iends Class “ iends” Family Use map Inspi a o s Us Emb oyde e s @ 4545 - Figu e 1: B y, L. (1955) Jen e som b ode e . Downloaded 19. ma ch, om: h ps://digi al museum.no/011012588484/ j e -som-b ode e - Figu e 2: Gunna Pede sen A/S (1970) Desembe . Downloaded 21. ma ch, om: h ps://digi al museum.no/021015989976/de sembe - Figu e 3: Dahl Delphin, R. (1940) Bokken Lasson. Downloaded 19. ma ch, om: h ps://digi al museum.no/021018263949/bok ken-lasson - Figu e 4: Alixp ess. (n.d.) Chee a S ee Shi D ess. Downloaded 26. ma ch, om: h ps://www.aliexp ess.com/ i em/32874618328.h ml - Figu e 5: Cos ume. (2021, Ap il) DIY. Bonnie Publica ionsIn e na ional AS apendix CONTENT: Design me hodology ollowed Plani ica ion o he p oyec Resea ch de elopmen Task assigna ion LINK o Mi o boa d: h ps://mi o.com/app/boa d/o9J_lXJZN6w=/ Link o Mi o boa d: h ps://mi o.com/app/boa d/o9J_lXJZN6w=/