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TESTING PHYSIOLOGIC COMFORT OF FUNCTIONAL CLOTHING
Ladisla Nagy
*An onín Ha elka
**Zdenek Kůs
***Soňa Jando á
Technical Uni e si y o Libe ec
Facul y o Tex ile Enginee ing
Depa men o Clo hing Technology
S uden ská 2, 461 17 Libe ec, Czech Republic
ladisla .nagy@ ul.cz
*Technical Uni e si y o Libe ec
Facul y o Tex ile Enginee ing
Depa men o Clo hing Technology
S uden ská 2, 461 17 Libe ec, Czech Republic
[email p o ec ed]
**Technical Uni e si y o Libe ec
Facul y o Tex ile Enginee ing
Depa men o Clo hing Technology
S uden ská 2, 461 17 Libe ec, Czech Republic
[email p o ec ed]
***Technical Uni e si y o Libe ec
Facul y o Science, Humani ies and Educa ion
Mo o Ac i i y Labo a o y, Depa men o Physical Educa ion
S uden ská 2, 461 17 Libe ec, Czech Republic
[email p o ec ed]
Abs ac
The subjec o esea ch wo k ca ied ou a he Depa men o Clo hing o he Facul y o
Tex ile a he Technical Uni e si y o Libe ec was inno a ion and moni o ing o physiologic
p ope ies o he i s laye o unc ional clo hing o spo smen, a my, i emen, police, e c.
Physiologic p ope ies o clo hing a e ones o he p ope ies eques ed om unc ional
clo hing and hey a e impo an because hey signi ican ly in luence no only he wea e 's
eelings bu also psyche and pe o mance o spo smen, soldie s, policemen, e c. No uni e sal
clo hing, which would be sui able o all wea he condi ions and physical exe cise o he
wea e can be designed, howe e , mo e sui able ex ile ma e ials and mo e elabo a ed designs
o clo hing o imp o emen o clo hing com o can be used. The ocus o esea ch wo k was
labo a o y es ing wi h p oband’s simula ed load wi h moni o ing o empe a u es and
mois u e in he limi laye o clo hing. Based on he analysis o measu ed alues and es
esul s o se o T-shi s, a se o op imum s uc u es o ex ile ma e ials o unc ional
clo hing was designed.
In oduc ion
Clo hing is an insepa able pa o human li e. The p ime ole o clo hing is o p o ec body
agains uns able en i ons. Human body can be conside ed as an open sys em, which is always
in he s a e o physical, chemical and biological in e ac ion wi h he en i ons. Clo hing is a
p o ec i e sys em, in which hea and mois u e pene a e. Pene a ion o hea and mois u e
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depends on he cons uc ion, cu , used ex ile ma e ial and pa ame e s o he clo hing laye .
Clo hing helps he mo egula ion o he o ganism in he cases when he body i sel is no
capable o au o- egula ion.
Com o as such can hen be de ined as a s a e o o ganism when physical unc ions o
o ganism a e in op imum and when en i ons o he human, including clo hing, do no p oduce
any unpleasan pe cep ions.
1 Tes me hodology used o in es iga ion
In iew o he ac ha com o is di ec ly ela ed o physiologic p ocess, i can be measu ed
quan i a i ely. Com o o clo hing can be e alua ed by measu ing selec ed physical
p ope ies o ex iles and clo hing (wa e apou s and ai pe meabili y, he mal esis ance,
e c.) ha in luence physiologic com o . A mo e objec i e way is o ca y ou es ing wi h
p obands. These can be ca ied ou unde eal condi ions – using clo hing in eal condi ions o
unde con olled clima ic condi ions and ac i i ies in a labo a o y. Measu emen unde
con olled condi ions has signi ican ad an ages, es ing condi ions a e ep oducible and
senso s can be connec ed o he pe son's body wi h he aim o gain objec i e da a. Such da a
may include hea a e, empe a u e and skin mois u e in a ious poin s o p oband's body in
he limi laye o in he clo hing s uc u e, including senso y assessmen o clo hing. Figu e 1
shows how he es is ca ied ou . The esea ch ac i i y consis ed in es ing he se o T-shi s
p oband's de ined load and unde de ined condi ions o he en i onmen wi h he choice o
moni o ing selec ed quan i ies, which p o ide possibili ies o clo hing com o e alua ion.
Sou ce: Own
Fig. 1: P oband while es ing he 1s laye s o clo hing in he labo a o y o physiologic
com o .
1.1 Theo e ical analysis
Wa e apou s pe meabili y is undamen al o unc ional clo hing, du ing in ense ac i i ies o
a pe son, p oduc ion o swea can each 1000g/hou and such quan i y mus be anspo ed
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h ough clo hing. Inc easing mois u e on he skin, especially in liquid o m, means immedia e
wo sening o com o and dec easing o pe son's pe o mance and concen a ion and ha is
why ans e o mois u e is impo an [1].
Wa e apou s pe meabili y is closely connec ed wi h he ma e ial, om which he s uc u e
o clo hing is c ea ed; i is also connec ed wi h he s uc u e and po osi y o he ab ic.
Po osi y is a cha ac e is ic a ec ing he b ea habili y o ab ics. I may be de ined as he po e
olume o he o al olume o ab ic. Po osi y de e mines he amoun o he olume o ai
con ained in he ab ic su ace, bu says no hing abou he posi ion, ype and size o po es, o
hei mu ual a angemen (1):
[%]10 * 2
c
V c
p
(1)
whe e: ρ c densi y o ai condi ioned ibe s [kg·m-3],
ρV ma e ial bulk densi y [kg·m-3].
Basically, he e a e wo ac o s – so p ion capaci y o ib es and deso p ion capaci y and hen
su ace ension on ib es, s uc u e and we ing capaci y o ib es. So p ion capaci y o ib es
can ha e posi i e e ec in he i s momen s o dampening bu on he o he hand, ib e
emains we o a long ime and so i does no con ibu e o good com o o clo hing [2]. The
p o ile o ib es, which, in sophis ica ed cons uc ion, allows pe ec we ing, and he eby
in ense anspo o liquid mois u e, is applied undamen ally.
The mois u e anspo gene ally p oceeds also by o he mechanisms (capilla y, so p ion), bu
we can p esume ha he di usion way will be he mo e dominan .
I is possible o desc ibe mois u e anspo by a ela ion (2) o mass anspo [3][4]:
iidi Dq i
(2)
whe e: Di coe icien o di usion anspo o mass o he i h – componen [m2·s-1],
i g adien o pa ial mass densi y o he i h - componen [kg·m-3].
Fo a uni low o mois u e as a compound o gaseous en i ons wi h a pa ial p essu e o pi´
(pi´– pa ial p essu e inside o po ous clo hing ma e ial, pi´´– pa ial p essu e ou side he
po ous clo hing ma e ial) i is possible o use a ela ion (3):
s
pp
RmT
M
Dq iii
idi i
(3)
whe e: Rm uni e sal gas cons an [kJ·kmol·K-1],
Mi mola mass [mol],
T empe a u e [K],
S laye hickness [m].
Based on he esul s o heo e ic analysis o physiologic com o , he ollowing expe imen s
had been planned and consequen ly ca ied ou :
a) es ing he selec ed se o T-shi s, om na u al ma e ials o mode n Sma ex iles
du ing simula ed load on s a iona y bicycle when moni o ing hea and mois u e and
measu ing empe a u e ields using The mocam.
b) measu ing he p ope ies de e mining clo hing com o in he labo a o ies o
physiologic com o a di e en empe a u es and mois u e in a se o kni ing sui able
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especially o he i s laye o clo hing allowing compa ison o classical and mode n
syn he ic ib es o hese ab ics [5].
2 Simula ing load o p oband wi h T-shi
The expe imen al measu emen was ca ied ou in he Labo a o y o Physiologic Com o a
he Clo hing Depa men , Facul y o Tex ile, Technical Uni e si y o Libe ec.
P oband pe o med physical ac i i y on s a iona y bicycle in ai -condi ioned oom.
Tempe a u e in he oom was se o 21 ± 1°C, humidi y o 60 ± 5%. Physical exe cise was
ca ied ou a a de ined hea a e o 45 minu es. Load was se o each and main ain he alue
o hea bea anging be ween 140-145 bea s pe minu e. P oband main ained hea bea
wi hin his in e al o all he ime o es ing. Hea bea was moni o ed using hea bea
sensing band a ached o p oband’s unk.
13 T-shi s o di e en ma e ial composi ion and weigh we e es ed. Ma e ial pa ame e s o
es ed T-shi s a e s a ed in Table 1.
Tab. 1: Ma e ial pa ame e s o es ed T-shi s
Ma king
Ma e ial
P oduce / O igin
S uc u e
Thickness
[mm]
Weigh
[g/m2]
Ai pe meabili y
[l/min/m2]
Resis ance
agains wa e
apou s
Re [m2.Pa.W-1]
The mal
esis ance
Rc [m2.K.W-
1]
T-shi 1
100% CO
KAJA s. .o / A med
o ces o he Czech
Republic
we single
plain
0.69
170.22
2089.00
2.56
0.019
T-shi 2
100% WO
DEVOLD MSM / No way
we double
0.94
216.85
>12000.00
2.59
0.037
T-shi 3
100% PP
SPOLSIN s. .o. / Czech
Republic
we in e lock
1.51
189.16
6060.00
5.12
0.046
T-shi 4
100% PL
ADIDAS / Philippines
we in e lock
0.59
132.19
9750.00
2.00
0.011
T-shi 5
95%CO/
5% EL
SPOLSIN s. .o. / Czech
Republic
we single
pla ed jbu ed
0.77
225.69
1620.00
4.15
0.025
T-shi 6
100% CO
F ench A med Fo ces
we single
plain
0.67
161.17
5057.00
3.06
0.020
T-shi 7
100% CO
Romanian A med
Fo ces
we single
plain
0.91
220.02
1993.00
3.78
0.017
T-shi 8
50%CO/50%PL
Uni ed S a ed A my
we single
plain
0.72
153.86
5786.00
3.23
0.024
T-shi 9
100% CO
I alian A med Fo ces
we single
plain
0.69
151.61
5014.00
2.92
0.015
T-shi
10
50%CO/50%PL
Macedonian A med
Fo ces
we single
plain
0.67
156.95
6600.00
2.82
0.020
T-shi
11
100% CO
B i ish A my
we single
plain
0.83
215.89
1294.00
3.38
0.018
T-shi
12
100% PL
Pola ec / USA
we in e lock
0.92
179.42
>12000.00
3.14
0.003
T-shi
13
100% PL
Pola ec / USA
we single
pla ed jbu ed
0.57
124.17
4170.00
1.30
0.008
Sou ce: Own
2.1 P ocedu e and condi ions o es ing T-shi s
Be o e he es , 5 senso s we e a ached, always in equal placemen , o a T-shi . The senso s
we e placed in o apou -pe meable “pocke s” made o “Neoshell-Pola ec” ma e ial. Be o e
he measu emen , he es ed T-shi was placed in o an ai -condi ioned oom wi h he
empe a u e o 21 ± 1°C and mois u e o 60 ± 5% o 30 minu es. See [6] o de ailed da a.
A he beginning and du ing he es , senso y pe cep ion o clo hing com o by p oband was
moni o ed. The aim o he moni o ing was o e alua e he i s laye o clo hing on he base o
he moni o ed indi idual's eelings du ing a long- e m physical exe cise, and he ollowing
pa ame e s we e ound ou :
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p oband’s he mal sensa ions (c i e ion: he mal ecep i eness), a ing scale 1-10 – 1-
he mal balance, 10 – oo wa m o oo cold
p oband’s sensa ions o mois u e (c i e ion: dampness), a ing scale 1-10 – 1- no
sensa ion o dampness, 10 – ex eme dampness
p oband’s senso y sensa ions (c i e ion: p ickliness, us ling), a ing scale 1-10 – 1-
e y pleasan , 10 - unpleasan
p oband’s physical ac i i y (c i e ion: physical a igue), a ing scale 1-10 – 1- no
i ed, esh, 10 – i ed ou
2.2 E alua ion o he expe imen
Wi hin he phases, he expe imen con inuously ocuses on h ee pa s impo an o o e all
e alua ion o T-shi s:
1. Ma e ial e alua ion o T-shi s
2. Objec i e e alua ion o T-shi s
3. Subjec i e e alua ion o T-shi s
This pape p ima ily ocuses on subjec i e e alua ion o T-shi s, which is an impo an pa
o o e all e alua ion o unc ional clo hing by he wea e . Phases 1 and 2 will be subjec s o
he ollowing pape s.
Fo each T-shi , a ques ionnai e o subjec i e e alua ion o T-shi by he p oband was
designed and subsequen ly assessed.
Visual display o subjec i e e alua ion o he T-shi by p oband and hei mu ual compa ison
be o e, du ing and a he end o he es is shown in he ollowing adial diag ams. F om he
diag ams, see Fig. 2-4, i is e iden ha subjec i e sensing o he T-shi by p oband is ge ing
wo se du ing long- e m physical exe cise.
Sou ce: Own
Fig. 2: Subjec i e e alua ion o he es ed T-shi s' com o by p oband a he beginning o
he es .
90
Sou ce: Own
Fig. 3: Subjec i e e alua ion o he es ed T-shi s' com o by p oband du ing he es .
Sou ce: Own
Fig. 4: Subjec i e e alua ion o es ed T-shi s' com o by p oband a he end o he es .
The T-shi , indi idual cu es o which de ia e om op imum limi s, o co espond wi h he
diag am a ea displayed in da k g ey colou in he middle o he diag am, is assessed as he
bes . I applies ha an ideal T-shi would ake up he a ea in he middle o he diag am wi h
he adius o 1.
O e all subjec i e e alua ion o clo hing by p oband is shown in he ollowing Table 2. A he
end o he es , each T-shi was awa ded an o e all g ade in acco dance wi h commonly used
school classi ica ion 1 – he bes , 5 – he wo s (ex ending he inal ma k by a plus o minus
sign was allowed). The anking o indi idual T-shi is di ided in o 5 colou zones o be e
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comp ehensibili y. The inal ma ks a e used o assessmen in mul i-c i e ia assessmen o
clo hing [6].
Tab. 2: O e all subjec i e e alua ion o T-shi s by p oband.
P oband
O e all anking o T-shi
Ma king o T-Shi
Awa ded g ade
1
T-shi 2
1
2
T-shi 13
1-
3
T-shi 12
2+
4
T-shi 6
2
5
T-shi 5
2-
6
T-shi 10
2-
7
T-shi 4
3
8
T-shi 3
3
9
T-shi 8
3-
10
T-shi 11
4+
11
T-shi 7
4-
12
T-shi 9
5
13
T-shi 1
5
Sou ce: Own
Conclusion
The i s laye o clo hing, which is in con ac wi h he skin and, in addi ion, mus ans e
mois u e and hea in o de o each he a ea o empe a u e and mois u e wi h good com o is
c ucial o he mo-physiologic and senso y com o o unc ional clo hing.
P ima ily he expe imen ocused mainly on he i s laye o clo hing, which in luences he
wea e 's physiologic com o mos . Common ma e ials o T-shi s such as o example co on
o he mix u e o co on/PL, o co on/elas ane as well as new sophis ica ed ib es and
s uc u es (Pola ec, Adidas, and Moi a) we e selec ed o he se o es ed ma e ials.
The o e all complex e alua ion o T-shi s esul s om h ee independen aspec s:
Subjec i e e alua ion o clo hing by p oband
Moni o ing empe a u e and mois u e a p oband's de ined load unde labo a o y
condi ions
Measu ed esul s o he p ope ies in physiologic com o labo a o ies FT-KOD, which
in luence clo hing com o
F om he abo e men ioned diag ams, Fig. 2-4, i is e iden ha he e a e minimum di e ences
in subjec i e pe cep ion o clo hing com o by he p oband a he beginning o he es . Wi h
inc easing long las ing exe cise he di e en s uc u es and ma e ial composi ions o
indi idual T-shi s s a p esen ing hemsel es and he p oband s a s o eel wo sening
com o o clo hing. The g ea es di e ences in pe cei ing he clo hing com o by p oband,
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compa ed o he beginning o he es , a e ound ou a he end o he es . The T-shi , in
which he leas de e io a ion o subjec i e senso y com o is eached, can hen be conside ed
as he mos app op ia e i s laye o a long ime physical ac i i y.
Based on he measu ed esul s o p oband's subjec i e e alua ion and based on he o e all
subjec i e e alua ion o ma e ial s a ed in Table 1, T-shi No. 12 (Pola ec® Powe D y®
FR) was selec ed o he nex phase o es ing as he i s laye o unc ional clo hing. T-shi
12 and T-shi 2 gained he bes subjec i e e alua ion o com o by p oband, and ha is why
hese T-shi s ha e he bes p econdi ions o achie ing as good p oband's physiologic
com o as possible du ing long- e m exe cise.
Li e a u e
[1] MOTAWE, H., M.: Fac o a ec ing ga men ’s he mophysiological p ope ies in
opical wea he coun ies. Libe ec: Technická uni e zi a Libe ci, Fakul a ex ilní,
Ka ed a odě nic í, 2012. PhD. Thesis, s .180
[2] MOTAWE, M.; HAVELKA, A.; KŮS, Z. The mophysiological in es iga ion o
co on ab ics and iscose ab ics made om bamboo plan s. ACC JOURNAL XVIII.
2012, 1, s. 49-57. Technická uni e zi a Libe ci, 2012, ISSN 1803-9782
[3] ŠESTÁK, J., RIEGER, F.: Přenos hybnos i, epla a hmo y. P aha: Vyda a els í ČVUT,
2005. 299 s.
[4] HAVELKA, A.; KŮS, Z. Inno a ions in Tex ile ma e ials & P o ec i e clo hing.
Monog aph, Wa saw, 2012: Technical uni e si y o Lodz p ess. The impo ance o
mois u e anspo in he insula ing p ope ies o sandwich s uc u es, sma clo hes, s.
137-144. ISBN 978-83-7283-493-5.
[5] HAVELKA, A.; KŮS, Z. The anspo phenomena o semi-pe meable memb ane o
spo clo h. In e na ional Jou nal o Clo hing Science and Technology, Volume 23,
Numbe 2/3, 2011, s. 119-130. ISSN 0955-6222.
[6] HAVELKA, A.: „Fyziolog“– Ino ace a moni o o ání yziologických las nos í
speciálních odě ů p o ozb ojené síly a odě y p o z aněné a nemocné., Libe ec 2012.
226 s. Zá ě ečná zp á a o ealizaci p ojek u č. 907980. Technická uni e zi a Libe ci,
Fakul a ex ilní, Ka ed a odě nic í.
Ing. Ladisla Nagy; doc. Ing. An onín Ha elka, CSc.; p o . D . Ing. Zdeněk Kůs; doc. PhD .
Soňa Jando á, Ph.D.
93
TESTOVANÍ FYZIOLOGICKÉHO KOMFORTU FUNKČNÍCH ODĚVŮ
Předmě em ýzkumných p ací, p o áděných na Ka edře odě nic í Fakul y ex ilní Technické
uni e zi y Libe ci, byla ino ace a moni o o ání yziologických las nos í p ní s y
unkčních odě ů p o spo o ce, ojsko, hasiče, policii a d. Fyziologické las nos i odě ů jsou
jednou z požado aných las nos í na unkční odě a jsou důleži é, p o ože ýznamně
o li ňují nejen poci y nosi ele, ale i psychiku a ýkon spo o ců, ojáků, policie a d. Nelze
na hnou uni e zální odě , k e ý bude yho o a při šech po ě nos ních podmínkách a
yzické zá ěži nosi ele, ale lze použí hodnější ex ilní ma e iály a p op aco anější design
odě ů p o zlepšení odě ního kom o u. Těžiš ěm ýzkumných p ací byly labo a o ní es y při
simulo ané zá ěži p obanda s moni o o áním eplo a lhkos i mezní s ě odě ů. Na
základě analýzy naměřených hodno a ýsledků es ů soubo u T-Shi byl na žen soubo
op imálních s uk u ex ilních ma e iálů p o unkční odě .
PRÜFUNG DES PHYSIOLOGISCHEN KOMFORTS DER FUNKTIONSKLEIDUNG
Gegens and de Fo schungsa bei en, die an dem Leh schul ü Bekleidungsindus ie an de
Tex il akul ä de Technischen Uni e si ä in Libe ec du chge üh wu den, wa en
Inno a ionen und die Übe wachung de physiologischen Eigenscha en de e s en Schich de
Funk ionskleidung ü Spo le , die A mee, die Feue weh , die Polizei e c. Die
physiologischen Eigenscha en de Kleidung sind eine de e o de lichen Eigenscha en de
Funk ionskleidung und sie sind wich ig, da sie nich nu die Ge ühle des T äge s, sonde n
auch die Psyche sowie die Leis ung de Spo le , de Solda en, de Polizei e c. bedeu end
beein lussen. Es kann keine Uni e salkleidung en wo en we den, die allen
Wi e ungsein lüssen und de physischen Belas ung des T äge s en sp echen wi d, abe es
können geeigne e e Tex ilma e ialien und ein du chgea bei e es Kleidungsdesign ü die
Ve besse ung des Kleidungskom o s e wende we den. De Schwe punk de
Fo schungsa bei en wa en Labo es s bei eine simulie en Belas ung eine Tes pe son mi de
Übe wachung on Tempe a u en und de Feuch igkei in de G enzschich de Kleidung. Au
G und de Analyse de gemessenen We e und de Tes e gebnisse des T-Shi -Komplexes
wu de ein Komplex on op imalen S uk u en de Tex ilma e ialien ü eine
Funk ionskleidung en wo en.
TESTOWANIE KOMFORTU FIZJOLOGICZNEGO ODZIEŻY FUNKCYJNEJ
P zedmio em p ac badawczych, p owadzonych w Ka ed ze Odzieżownic wa Wydziału
Teks ylnego Uniwe sy e u Technicznego w Libe cu, była innowacja i moni o owanie
właściwości izjologicznych pie wszej wa s wy odzieży unkcyjnej dla spo owców, wojska,
s aży poża nej, policji, i d. Właściwości izjologiczne odzieży należą do wymaganych
właściwości odzieży unkcyjnej i są ważne, ponieważ w znacznym s opniu wpływają nie
ylko na odczucia osoby noszącej, ale ównież na psychikę i wyniki spo owców, żołnie zy,
policjan ów, i d. Nie można op acować uniwe salnej odzieży, k ó a będzie odpowiednia
w każdych wa unkach a mos e ycznych i p zy óżnym obciążeniu izycznym osoby noszącej,
ale w celu pop awy kom o u można zas osować lepsze ma e iały eks ylne i lepiej
op acowane wzo nic wo odzieży. Głównym p zedmio em p ac badawczych były es y
labo a o yjne z symulowanym obciążeniem p oban a i z moni o owaniem empe a u y i
wilgo ności w wa s wie g anicznej odzieży. Na pods awie analizy pozyskanych wa ości i
wyników es ów zespołu T-Shi op acowano zbió op ymalnych s uk u ma e iałów
eks ylnych dla odzieży unkcyjnej.